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The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

Ball Python Care Guides

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
  Set-up Recommendations
  
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. some popular brands include animal plastics [most recommended], boaphile plastics [i personally have these and like them], reptile basics, and vision cages, though you'll find many more with a quick google search. many people will use a tub at first and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as pro products [most recommended] or reptile basics.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
  
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i think the other user is making a big deal about things that aren't actually red flags in and of themselves. but since i've been tagged, and you said you have humidity issues, i'll post my copypasta.

the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

Sage is another good one to try. Mint is easy to grow (sometimes too easy; it should only ever be planted in a container). Basil is nice to have around, too; however, it's an annual and will have to be replaced every year. Cilantro (another annual) can be picky about the growing conditions (it likes it really cool and mild), but it's worth a shot if you like the flavor. I'm not sure how well it would do in a container, but I've had good luck growing fennel, too. I've never grown them myself, but I also see a lot of marjoram, terragon, lavender, chives, and lemongrass in containers.

Depending on your climate, a common problem with potted plants is drying out too fast or getting too much heat. There are a few options to reduce this if you find it's a problem for you:

• Check the soil moisture frequently (but beware of overwatering, especially the thyme).
  
• Keep a dish under the pot, and water until it drains into the dish. (This also helps reduce buildup of excess minerals in the potting mix.)
  
• Use larger pots rather than smaller pots.
  
• Use a thick and/or light-colored container.
  
• Keep the pot in shade (albeit without denying sun to the leaves). I find that morning sun and afternoon shade can be a good compromise in hot, sunny weather.
  
• Avoid overcrowding of the roots (e.g., divide the herbs as they get bigger, or transplant them into a larger pot).
  
• Insulate the pot if necessary (e.g., wrap it or partially bury it in the ground).
  
• Mix in a soil additive that improves absorbency, such as perlite.
  
  Some of these can help keep the roots protected when it freezes, too. The roots are the heart of your plants, and you want them to be in as stable and healthy an environment as possible, as if they were growing in the ground.
  
  Another common problem is fertilizing. Specifically, over-fertilizing. It can be difficult to get the right amount of nutrients in a container, since the excess doesn't get rained away, and the roots can't grow out and find more nutrients if they run out. You'll want to err on the side of fertilizing too little rather than fertilizing too much.
  
  Oregano, rosemary, and thyme are quite hardy plants that shouldn't need much in the way of fertilizer. If it were me, I'd probably wait a year before fertilizing them for the first time, unless they show signs of deficiency (e.g., leaves turning yellow or purple) before then. In all likelihood, your potting mix already has fertilizer in it, and that should last you a while.
  
  When selecting a fertilizer, make sure you choose one that's easy and convenient to use (e.g., you might not want one that must be applied weekly or every time you water). Make sure it has directions for container plants, and follow those directions closely (again, err on the side of fertilizing too little, not too much). And select one that is rated for herbs or foliage plants; you don't want one that's primarily intended for flowering or fruiting, because they will give your plants too much phosphorus.
  
  By the way, as far as watering goes, this is my hands-down favorite watering can for containers. It's easy to control where the water goes. (You don't want much water on the leaves; just water the soil directly.)
  
  *Some leaf discoloration is normal when the weather gets cold, or when a leaf ages and dies. If the weather is warm and pleasant, and if the affected leaves are new or in their prime, that's* when you should be concerned. If you're not sure, try posting a photo on Reddit and asking for advice.

If you haven't purchased anything yet, I would recommend looking into either a tub or a pvc enclosure. Glass tanks can work, but they take a lot of modifications in order to get them to optimal humidity and temperatures for ball pythons. The 42qt Iris Weathertight tub is highly recommended as a good first enclosure for a ball python before upgrading to an Animal Plastics or Boaphile PVC enclosure. This is a good tutorial on making a tub enclosure. I have the Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python. A glass tank doesn't hold heat, and a screen top can let humidity escape.

You're gonna need an under tank heater - this is not really a place to be going cheap - you're gonna want to invest in an ultratherm heat pad or flexwatt heat tape. I've got my BP on the Flexwatt that was an add on item when getting my Animal Plastics T8. The stick on pads you see at pet stores, such a Zilla and ZooMed, can short out rather quickly and you cannot really re-use them easily. My rainboa boa has the ultratherm under tank heater which I ordered from Reptile Basics.

You might also want to look into radiant heat panels if going the PVC route - this helps keep ambient air temperatures where they need to be (over 75F) or a ceramic heat emitter. Stay away from anything that gives off visible light, even red light, as bp's can see it and if left on at night it can mess up their sleep/wake cycle.

Any heating element also needs a thermostat. You place the probe on the mat, between it and the surface you are attaching it to, and plug the heating element into the thermostat and then set the appropriate temperatures. Failure to do so might result in a badly burned ball python. Even the good heating elements can get too hot. I'd look into InkBird / JumpStart as brands for cheap thermostats that a lot of people seem to like. They do make a loud clicking sound when they turn on. If you can, I'd highly suggest shelling out for a Spyder Robotics Herpstat. I've got the Herpstat 2 and it's really phenomenal.

You will also need thermometers and hygrometers. Stay away from the analogue stick on ones - they are inaccurate and become unstuck from the wall but still sticky enough to stick to your BP, and possible remove your BP's skin. I like this indoor / outdoor one from Acurite - I've got the "outdoor" probe affixed to the warm side via hot glue and the unit itself on the cool side, so I can get humidity / cool side / warm side temps all in one glance. You'll also want an IR temp gun to spot check occassionally.

Hides you want something enclosed on all sides, with a small ofset opening. I really like these ones from Reptile Basics (which can also sometimes be found on Amazon). They are perfect for snakes. BP's like to feel enclosed on all sides so a predator cannot ambush them from behind, this is why half logs are no good: they don't provide that security. You can absolutely incorporate them into your set up as cute decor, but they are insufficient as hides. You're gonna want at least one hide on the cool end and one on the warm. I have about 5 total hides in my BP's enclosure, spread out along the temperature gradient.

For substrate you can go simple with paper towels, or fancy with coconut husk or reptibark. I'd suggest staying away from aspen, as it molds really quickly. BP's need at least 60% humidity, and something like coconut husk holds that better without quickly molding. You're gonna wanna make sure that when you are measuring warm side temperatures, that you are measuring the surface of the enclosure, not the top of your substrate. Mine will burrow down and move all of the substrate out of the hide, so I make sure that the warmest part she can get to is never higher than 90F.

Humidity needs to be over 60%, I accomplish this in my PVC enclosure by just keeping a water dish in it, one that is large enough for her to fit in and soak if she wants to. I change it out about every three days (or more often if she decides to poop in it). I don't use anything like ReptiSafe, if I can drink the tap water, so can my animals.

I put leaves and fake vines (plastic, no metal wire) in her enclosure, too. They like to feel invisible and hidden, and these leaves and vines give her some of that while also providing a more natural aesthetic.

Hm, so some quick stuff. The pi zero is kinda slow, i would not recommend it tbh. i got the regular pi 3 and it works pretty well. if you want timelapses and stuff (octolapse) then it's a must

they do have prints on thingiverse for the regular pi, you can still mount it on the printer. shouldnt matter what material, you just want to make sure it doesnt hit the printer head/heatbed (or any moving parts) and ensure it can get somewhat airflow.



https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=pi+prusa&dwh=485d4388e714606


PLA is the easiest, start with that and you can try others (abs/flex/etc) later. get used to printing. prusament is really nice stuff but a tad more pricey. amazon has a few colors in stock
https://www.amazon.com/Prusament-Galaxy-Filament-Diameter-Tolerance/dp/B07M8GWZBS/

other brands i like, hatchbox, paramount, matterhackers, just look at the reviews and see what people say

noob kit, hm, these are kinda nice, few useful tools
https://www.amazon.com/40-Piece-Printer-Tool-Kit/dp/B07BM8C6SS/

needles to help clean clogged nozzles (though it doesnt happen often)
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Cleaning-including-Cleaner-Needles/dp/B07G493V8M/

liquid bearing for the steel rods should help, need to oil them up ever few months or when its dry

https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Bearings-100-synthetic-lubrication-equipment/dp/B016YSLMXA/

i ilke kapton tape to hold parts to the heatbed better but you dont need it

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Polyimide-Printers-Printing/dp/B01FECA0E4

extra nozzle is always good (ive bought this brand but others SHOULD work, your results may vary)
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Extra-Nozzle-V6-NOZZLE-175-400/dp/B00NAK9TWM/

extra ptfe tube is nice too, i got some on ebay (a few feet for my mmu2)

blender is nice since it's free, i used 3d max myself but its expensive

ive printed a lot haha, my stuff is here https://www.instagram.com/dude2k5/

I used the gardena hose repair kit for the M36 metal nuts, 1" to 3/4" copper reducers, and a section of 1" PVC pipe. This image shows how I put it all together and cut it. (refer to the rest of the album for assembly pictures)

To keep the PVC from rotating on the copper reducers I drilled a hole in the PVC and tapped thread holes in it to make a set screw on the top and the bottom.

The connector on the stick is connected to the connector on the base using a PS/2 extension that I shortened and resoldered. It's not pictured in the photo set, but the instructions are pretty easy to find. It involves using a mechanical pencil to snap off one of the extra pins and some needle nose pliers and a small drill to make room for the plastic tab thing in there.

All in all it was pretty good and stayed put pretty good if I tightened the nuts enough, but it twisted a little if I put enough pressure on it. If I were to redesign it I would try to figure out a way to use tabs or the built-in oval shapey things to mechanically keep it from rotating. Also the set screws didn't work too well because PVC is soft and the screw ate out the threads. It would be better to drill through the copper and tap that I think, or use a bolt. I don't think I'm going to pursue it that much further because I don't think I an improve upon it without making it hard to remove.

Flying with an extension is pretty awesome though, the stick is so light and controllable. I think this is a good cheap way to try it out and see what you like.

It is my first time propagating, so I am not sure if it is a fluke; however, I have had success in using a squeeze watering bottle (something like this, but I bought mine at the dollar store by my place: https://www.amazon.ca/Flower-Watering-Bottle-Garden-Transparent/dp/B00XHN9NUK) and just squeezing a little bit of water just in front of each leaf with roots. This way I eliminate any water getting on the leaves, but encourage root growth still. Also, my leaves are sitting on top of a gritty mix topped with perlite for further protection against getting the leaves wet while in search of soil and water (thus encouraging rot). I do not plan to water any of them until the mother leaf shrivels up entirely! I have some tiny little pups now and some healthy looking roots, so I am looking forward to the new few weeks/months :)

I'm giving this auto watering system a go.

Edit: won't let me post the link for some reason. Using this:

CONTINENTAL AWS-10 Automatic Watering System for containers

I need the system to water 5 baby plants in veg for up to 1wk while I'm away.

They're currently in 3 gallon smart pots, so I'm guessing 1 liter of water per pot every other day should do it right now.

Tbd, it's going to take some experiment to get the flow rates/duration etc honed in.

Right now I'm testing the system with the following settings:

Runs: 5 runs a day,
Duration: 25 seconds of water per run,
Volume: ~250ml per pot per day.

It's on the low end, but figure it's easier to see if I'm under watering vs over watering right now as I experiment.

Also want to reposition the tubes to be more like irrigation rings and drill more holes around, so water comes out from multiple spots instead of streaming out into 1 spot as it does right now.

Also need to invest in a 5 gallon bucket w/ lid to keep contaminates out and prevent water evaporation. The current 4gallon blue pale was just something I had on hand.

https://i.imgur.com/Iu73Onj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PoDKHRT.jpg

You can see in this pic, water is only provided to 1 location. Making the tube into an "irrigation ring" will help spread the water out and provide better water distribution throughout the smart pot.

https://i.imgur.com/1diU1M3.jpg

I'm not that sure where to find guides. There are a lot of premade kits available, check amazon or home depot or similar stores. You can purchase the individual parts or just purchase a kit.

Here is a typical water pump, this one is the smallest and cheapest I can find on Amazon, or close to, as it takes very little flow to supply the drippers. Don't let them run dry though, reservoir should always have water in it.

I currently use this bad boy to split from 1/2 inch hose from a water pump to the thinner spaghetti hose, I think it's 1/4 inch, that leads to the drippers. The trick to using this manifold is finding a fitting to go from 1/2 inch hose from the pump to the required thread for the manifold, which is garden hose size. I use a totally standard 1/2 inch threaded fitting that is stocked at all my local hardware stores. You can adjust flow on the manifold but I prefer not to, just leave it and let the drippers modulate flow.

Instead of a manifold, you could also find some way to go right to spaghetti tubing from the pump, and just run one master line to all the plants, and use a tee for each dripper.

You could also run the 1/2 inch supply line as your master line and puncture a hole in it with this or this and just use a little fitting like this to run the spaghetti hose to each dripper/plant, but I feel like these connections are prone to leaking. It is a very popular way of setting up drip systems though. With less than very many plants I would go with a manifold or spaghetti hose with tees.

I like this style of dripper because it sends a consistent amount of water to the plants and I adjust volume by setting an electronic timer (24 hr/7 day timer) to run the right amount of minutes per day, the amount of times I want. Math is nice.


So basically parts list can fluctuate pretty heavily depending on how you want to do it.

Did you watch the discussion video?

The wax in the measuring cup was barely liquid, it was quite manageable. I do agree that it would be nicer to have a melt pot and ladle the wax out from there. I've been eyeing this and this.

Yeah, wax does make a mess. I usually have a set of sheets set aside for wax play. I have been impressed with the beeswax as it's more solid when it dries and It was easy to clean up.

Soy wax is the absolute easiest as it washes out of most things.

Amazon sells a auto waterer that's powered by AAs and/or a usb cord, I use one for one of my indoor trees, just hook it in the side of a 5 gallon bucket and set it for how often you want it watered, the little brass filter will clog, it's best to take it off and weigh the hose down with something so it stays at the bottom. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0743F4532/

Super easy and I've been using mine for a couple of months now, no issues so far except for the clogged filter thing. Make sure you test it before, and make sure it's set for minutes not seconds.

Smart Thermostat: I use the Honeywell Z-Wave thermostat (as my smart home is "mostly" Z-Wave). I considered Ecobee (I hate Nest), but went with this as I don't really need a "learning" thermostat...do this temperature when I am home, do that one when I am not home.

Sprinkler control: Rachio (Amazon Link) - best sprinkler controller I have ever had...depending on where you live, you might even get a rebate on your water due to the water savings this has.

Smart Door Lock: Kwikset (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave as I use Z-Wave. A cool thing about this lock is that you can re-key it yourself.

Temperature Sensor: SmartThings Motion Sensor (Amazon Link) - it reports temperature, and it's ZigBee

Leak Sensor: Samsung SmartThings Leak Sensor (Amazon Link) - it's ZigBee, but I have built out a smaller ZigBee network too.

Garage Door Opener: GoControl (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave.

​

Multi-Purpose Sensor: SmartThings (Amazon Link) - Open/Close, Temperature, Vibration: I have one of these on each my closet doors (when I open the door, the closet light turns on...when I close the door the light turns off). I also have one on my Gun Safe (so I get notified if my gun safe door is open...also get vibration notifications if it's being tampered with)

The temperature/motion sensor is a nice combination. For example, I have one of these outside on my lanai. When it detects motion, it turns the fans on...but only if the temperature is over 74 F). I have a few of these inside that turn on small table lamps at night when motion is detected (versus large/bright lights) because the night is dark, and full of terrors.

​

Don't know if you have a pool, but I use iAqualink as my pool controller. It has it's own app, and now integrates with Alexa (doesn't integrate with SmartThings yet). But it's nice being able to turn on the spa and spa heater while out for dinner, and having it be up to temperature by the time you get home.

​

Oh - and check out Sonos for whole house audio. I SOOOOOOOOO love my Sonos speakers.

I think the concept of a bidet is great, but I'm not keen on spending money on something that then has to be hooked up to the water supply and might draw complains from my landlord.

(I've seen those bidet-like options that sit inside your toilet bowl and spray water upwards to your butt crack. Have those guys never heard of explosive diarrhea? One episode of that and you have to spend hours cleaning out dried-up poop from the cracks and crevices of your in-bowl bidet.)

No, the best thing is the simplest here. I went to my local lawn & garden store, and picked up a watering can like this one for $5.

Now all I do is fill it up with warm water, take my shit as usual, and then use the long spout of the watering can to aim the stream of water at my ass while I clean my ass with my other hand. The running water cleans away all the shit, and a simple wipe or two with toilet paper dries everything up afterwards.

Then I wash my cleaning hand with soap, and all is well. It's all the advantages of a bidet for only $5.

Hi! A little late to the party, but something else to keep in mind that I did not see mentioned is that you will definitely want a thermostat (not just a thermometer) to regulate the heat from your heat pad and/or Ceramic Heating Element. You will probably want one for each heat element, although CHEs can be controlled with dimmer switches as well I believe.

A thermostat lets you regulate the output of a heat pad or CHE. This is important because without regulation, it is possible for either of them to overheat beyond typical heating abilities. This could lead to extreme temperatures in your tank that could burn the snake or even cause neurological damage if it's hot enough.

I'm taking my list of suggestions from other users who post around snek subreddits as I am not yet a snek owner myself :(.

Cheap options are Jump Start thermostats, although they do not have safety features that will shut down the heating element if the thermostat fails. Another option that's in the same price range but a bit safer is an Inkbird thermostat. If you wanna splurge and get a very high quality thermostat for your little buddy, you can go for a Spyder Robotics thermostat.

Also, not necessarily required but useful and fun: an Infrared Thermometer

I bought some coolant pipe hose for the spine and a Furby off eBay. I watched some tutorials on how to longify him but ultimately totally winged it and I think Handsome Jerome turned out wonderfully (see my post history). He is hand sewn and stuffed with inexpensive polyfill. I bought my fabric to make him in person so I could feel it—1/2 yard of the body, 1/4 yard of his belly.

This doesn't make any sense to me... What people want to grow their own food but don't actually like gardening and are also willing to pay significantly more than if they just purchased their produce?

The scale is too small for there to be any positive returns during the life of the unit, especially if you ever need to replace parts or do maintenance. And better alternatives already exist! You can achieve almost the same thing on a 3x larger scale^1 for 2% of the cost^2 and less time:

You'll have to plant the seeds yourself, but on a small scale that is such a nominal task it is hardly an advantage to the FarmBot, especially because you still have to load seeds and attachments into the FarmBot (and clear out the inevitable jams). And the time to set up the landscaping fabric and irrigation system is almost certainly less than setting up and programming the FarmBot, with less maintenance and much fewer potential points of failure.

------

^1 The Farmbot Genesis kit has a 4.5 m^2 compared to the ~14 m^2 provided by the landscaping fabric.

^2 Automated irrigating and weed prevention system from Amazon:

• Drip Irrigation Kit: 23.99
  
  
• Irrigation Timer: 32.97
  
  
• Landscaping Fabric: 14.99
  
  
• Total: $71.95 (compared to $2,900...)
  

I use one of these with great success. It's cheap, it's simple and it's worked well for me for ages. I have the intake tube stuck through a hole in the lid of a 5 gallon bucket full of water with the nutes already mixed in.

It's pretty simple, set the length of time to water, tell it how many times a day to water and that's it. I'm using 1 unit for my tent containing 4-5 plants. I'd estimate that I've got it pretty close to maxed out. You might be able to do 6-7 plants if they were smaller or otherwise didn't need a ton of water.

This took me 5 minutes to put together.

Commercial Version:
hobby creek version

Materials List:

• coolant hoses
  
  
• alligator clips
  
  
• A solid piece of wood
  
• some heatshrink
  
• some hotglue...
  
  

1. The threaded connector on the hoses is a 1/2"-20 thread. So grab a spade bit or 1/2" bit and drill as many holes as you want into your base.
   
   
2. Don't make the mistake I made and either use a dense hardwood for the weight, or offset the mounting holes further back so it doesn't tip forward.
   
   
3. Insert the coolant hoses and hot glue from the bottom then around the base and let that set
   
   
4. drill the tube openings to the diameter of the alligator clip arm (about 1/4") but make sure it's snug, smaller is better than bigger.
   
   
5. shoot some glue into the tube opening as well as the alligator clip
   
   
6. slide on a tiny piece of heatshrink onto the tube
   
   
7. push the alligator clip into the tube then heat the heatshrink around the connection (I used marine heatshrink which has a built in heat activated adhesive to help this connection)
   
   
8. grab some rubber dots or no slip feet and stick them on the bottom of your base board.
   
   The amazon link I linked to sells the hoses in packs of 6 so you can make one for yourself and a friend, or do what hobby creek did and fix 4 arms to the base (which in my opinion is a little overkill).
   
   It's not 100% rigid, but for a $9 build, it's "rigid enough".

Oh i was looking on my phone before. The retro-1800 model is a low flow sprayer head. Typically you see these in beds with drought resistant plants. These work fine but waste a little more water than drip tubing. This may be an easier way for you to lower your water out

Typically when someone says "drip irrigation" they mean tubes like this. Its the most efficient way to water the soil - there is much less wasted water. You just space the tubes as far apart as the emitters are spaced.

This tubing will work with the RCKIT. But it does not look like RCKIT includes a filter. The drip tubing gets clogged pretty easily so typically you put a filter like this inline after the valve and a flush valve that periodically flushes the drip tube of any sediment buildup. Both of thes would be placed in a small box. Sediment buildup and drip tubes clogging can be a big deal if you are using non-potable water like well water. It's not nearly as big of an issue for systems using potable water.

A few days ago, someone mentioned filling up sandwich ziploc bags and poking a pin sized hole to make a crude drip system. I see no reason for this not to work for you, maybe a decent amount of bags. Placed very smartly.

Or have a friend do something simple every couple days for you. Assuming peppers are the only thing you're growing, confidentiality isn't a big concern.

If you have a few days before you travel, you can buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NHRYH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_fF5AwbQX7SBMZ
Or these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002558KJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_HG5AwbQETEY35

I've used the first one with great short term results (3-14 days) but can malfunction easily if used as the only long term means of watering. I wish you luck!

Blumats, it's a drip kit but the carrot that is in the ground there senses how wet the soil is and you can set it to maintain the same moisture level so it never gets too wet or dry. It's pressure fed, so you just need a res with a little fish tank aerator and little pump to keep everything moving.

Got it cause I was going away for a few days and my coco needed to be watered every day... so nice not having to mix nutes every day as an added bonus. Definitely worth it.

Amazon primable for free shipping

I will definitely have to grab a timer for my light.

The small system Im going to use is this

DIY Micro Automatic Drip Irrigation Kit,Houseplants Self Watering System 30-Day Digital Programmable Water Timer 5V USB Power Operation Indoor Potted Plants Vacation Plant Watering [Gen 4] https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0743F4532/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oqC0Cb786QFCK

5M Micro Irrigation Set Water Misting Cooling Drip Sprinkler System for Patio Garden Landscape Flower https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072VBBN6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RLC0CbDFGCF5T


I plan on using wooden dowels drilled into the wooden crates so that I can vertically position the misting nozzles properly. The rest of the line/drip nozzles I will secure to the wood and run to the plants to (hopefully) keep it looking clean.

Im considering a basic wooden ikea type shelf where I can separate the Bonsais and strategically place lights / misting nozzles above.

Hopefully these links work..Im pretty new to redit and this is only my 3rd post. I apologize if it doesn’t work.

The marine should hold (assuming it bonds to the plastics properly). Marine resins can take 7 days to fully cure. It's worth noting that there are some pretty extreme carcinogens in marine rated resins.

I'm not sure what hardware stores have in way of hydro-friendly gaskets, but you might be better off just buying the General Hydroponics Waterfarm kit. It's only $12 and you can pretty much guarantee it'll work if you drill the right hole size and just hook it up to new tubing of the same size (take tubing to a Home Depot, they should have tubing of the right size). If you decide at a later date you want a drip rig, you're already part way there.

I got the 4 stage 50 GPD and it's been good so far.

I only have a 7 gallon and 9 gallon tank. So, I don't need much for water changes and top-offs.

I have a 7 gallon jug with a spigot which makes dispensing it very easy. I fill two 1 gallon jugs throughout the week for top offs and water changes.


It takes about 2.5 hours to fill the 7 gal. It varies with temperature.

I've heard you can get resin for the DI cartridge and save a lot more money that way versus replacing the cart each time.


Oh yeah, I use this faucet adapter instead of the included one. If your faucet is compatible, it makes connecting and storing so quick if you need this kind of solution.

I've seen some being sold for exorbitant amounts, but making your own is quite easy really. You just need some 3/4" copper pipe sections, some pipe cement (unless you really want to solder), and a cable (which is just a PS/2 cable that's had a pin and the plastic center tab removed from the male end, and then cutting shortening the wire to fit in your pipe structure), and some way to attach it all to the stick and the base. I've never actually noted the thread size, but it just so happens that this hose connector has the correct threads on the metal ends to connect to a Warthog and make good parts for an extension. Here's mine.

Yeah, filter tanks expand more than you would think. That’s fine. Also, what kind of nozzle are you using on the end of your garden hose? Frequently people are using one of those 5-option ones from Home Depot, and those don’t clean for squat. Something like this works much better:

Brass Hose Sweeper Nozzle with Extra Washers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186NHC7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_30A-AbSQ5TWFB

If you clean the filter, and everything works fine, a dirty filter was the problem. If you have to clean it too frequently, either you aren’t getting it clean enough, or it’s a bad filter.

I have this to water plants on my balcony: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPFYG4/

You may get better flow out of one of the other fittings but this thing is super easy to use if your faucet is the right shape for it.

> Hardened steel

How good is that for normal stuff? Like is there any down side to just getting that and using it even if I decided to not print wood for whatever reason?

> e3d

This? https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-V6-Extra-Nozzle/dp/B00NAK9TWM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525218687&sr=8-3&keywords=e3d+nozzle&dpID=4164tMJafIL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

What makes it so good? I can easily afford a $11 nozzle

Since we are on the topic, are these any good? https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Cleaning-Makerbot-Creality-0-2-0-6mm/dp/B07546F55F/ref=sr_1_19?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1525218817&sr=1-19&keywords=3d+nozzle

Looks awesome. I set up an automatic daily water-changer in mine. I let it drain thru a hose-timer connected near the bottom thru a standard garden hose for 2 hours, and I keep a float valve on a second hose-timer to fill it back up.

​

tl;dr

hose timer (1 to drain and 1 to fill): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M676JAS/

float valve: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I

you'll need 2 hoses as well. the timer on the drain end gets clogged sometimes but thats the best i could come up with so far

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0743F4532?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

It might be perfect for you then. When it was working well, I loved it.

That's nice! I wish those Gardena hose attachments were easier to find.

Gardena 39035 5/8-Inch Metal Garden Hose Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VED3KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w06jDb5MB58RQ

looks good. if your interested in exploring this type of cooking more but don't want to spring for an anova or other sousvide cooker. use the crockpot method. more precise. and can do longer cooks without losing heat.

basically you hook this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5097413/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B015FKG4CC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107334619&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12722699865548230849&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017523&hvtargid=pla-326308171578

inline with your crockpot. then put the temp probe in the water. bring water up to temp with high once its at temp though switch it to low or warm, otherwise the heater element gets too much momentum during heat cycles and overshoots the temperature. this is what I use currently. i've done 48hr chuck roasts in it and works awesome.

Here's the album with descriptions.

Parts list:

1. Submersible aquarium pump. This way, I'm using electricity to pump water upwards, and don't need to elevate my water tank like in a Blumats system.
   
2. Pipe fitting to attach a manifold to the pump. I got one at my local hardware store, but I think this is the same thing.
   
3. 3/8" tubing to connect the pump to the manifold.
   
4. A kit with a bunch of 1/4" tubing to actually deliver water to the plants.. You could probably do it cheaper if you knew exactly which components you needed to buy, but I didn't so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
   
5. Manifold.This takes the water that comes from my pump and splits it into up to 8 1/4" lines to deliver to plants.
   
6. 5-gallon bucket. I already had one for vacuuming up my water, but you can get one for like 5 bucks at Home Depot.
   
   Total cost: ~$60. Not having to pH, add nutes, add calmag, etc. individually to like 10 individual cans of water: priceless!
   

You can use either an overhead heat source like a ceramic heat emitter (they put off heat and no light) or an under tank source like an undertank heat pad. Any kind of source needs to be on a thermostat (such as this one) so it doesn't get too hot. IIRC, cali kings need a hotspot of around 85F.

It does sound like he's trying to shed. You may need to bring the humidity up a bit for him. Misting a couple of times a day with a hand mister might help him out (distilled or reverse osmosis water will prevent water spots on glass). Another option is to make a humid hide. Some kind of container that is completely sealed except for one entrance, with some damp sphagnum moss inside.
You can also provide him a deep water dish...big enough for him to lay in. My Florida kingsnake likes to lay in his water dish from time to time, but they like a bit more humidity in general compared to calis.

I've been using this little auto-watering pump I got off amazon. It draws from a 5 gal bucket and puts out 1 C of water per 60 second run. Plenty for my seed trays. Not bad for $40. The Space heater is on a timer and keeps it about 10*F warmer than the ambient temp at night... not sure if this will be enough when it drops down to 16* next week but I assume it will be OK as I am only keeping cold hardy stuff in there for now and my tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant are inside under a fluorescent shop light til April. Zone 6a TN.

​

Go get some Sledgehammer flush. and run it through the plant after you have let the soil dry for 4- 5 days. Do yourself a favor and buy an automated watering system, which will run you about 35$ on amazon. This way you will be able to have precise watering on a schedule and prevent this type of noob mistake.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0743F4532/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

here the one i use. I just went to the store and bought a 5 gallon jug and use it for the reservoir. Best move ever. Also, if it is your first grow, take a tip from an old head and DONT fuck with them too much. Less is more with growing.

I got to thinking... if you’re getting a lot of rust it sounds like you have galvanized pipes. If that’s the case, all new sprinklers com with a filter at the the nozzle. If you have pvc, this will work: https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-PRF07530S-Irrigation-Regulating/dp/B006JZ51MC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=drip+filter&qid=1565144267&s=gateway&sprefix=drip+filter&sr=8-3

This is 3/4” so if you have one inch you’ll have to get adapters. But still.... with pvc you can get a new sprinkler with a filter at the nozzle. That’ll be much easier and more cost effective whichever pipe you have.

Have you just drilled holes for water, or have you actually added in drip irrigation heads? The heads will help prevent oddities in water pressure and will better regulate everything. You can even pair them with 1/4 tubing and couplings to get the water where you want it to go. In my experience, the heads are better than the soaker hoses.

I haven't bought one yet, but this one is half the price of that one, and hopefully works better.

It looks like you could use a claber koala

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPFYG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i8QEzbKHZ0JMW

I have one to hook my counterflow chiller to my sink, and it works great. My only concern is that the aerator seems to extend down a bit.

I've looked around a bit and it seems like the only ones I can find are all hose thread sized so your easiest option would probably be an adapter like the one I posted above connected to a regular hose quick disconnect.

If it was me I'd probably just use a 3/4 fht x 1/2 mpt pvc adapter to connect a regular garden hose quick connect and on the other side use a 1/2 mpt x whatever size you like barb adapter to connect your silicone tubing to.

There is not enough oxygen in the water. Get a bubbler or another filter that can add more oxygen to the water. thats why theyre jumping out.

remember that water temp changes (by a few degrees) is alot for fish. when im changing the temperature from 80 to 76 it takes me about 2 weeks. Its a very slow process. I would recommend getting this, and this . It makes water changes a breeze. The first is a must if you're lugging water. The second is amazing. I use it because i have extremely mineral heavy water and it really works, I've been doing water changes with these for over two years and I haven't had any issues. The advantage of the tap adapter is that you can add hot water until the water temperature reads the same as the water in the tank.

The filter eliminates 99% chlorine. There are other filters that are cheaper but i haven't found another that eliminates chlorine as well. For good measure you can still add half a dose of stress coat +.

I'm just outside Pittsburgh and my yard looked a lot like your second picture at the start of the season last year. It's not where I want it yet but it's a whole heck of a lot better now.

• Front Yard - May 19 2018 - After first watering
  
• Front Yard - June 15 2018
  
• Front Yard - July 3 2018
  
  This was before I put much effort / thought / planning into this, but I just used the all-in-one big box store seed (with the fertilizer and stuff mixed in) with a regular broadcast spreader.
  
  The biggest thing seemed to be watering. Seriously, do yourself a favor and buy one of the cheap battery-operated timers, set it on a timer, and hook it up to a sprinkler. Having the watering done automatically is huge.
  
  After seeing the results from just one sprinkler, I ended up getting a 1-to-4 hose splitter and 3 more timers / sprinklers to cover more of the yard. Everyone in my neighborhood complains about how tough it is to grow grass, but it really wasn't that hard when the watering is done for you.

This is the exact system I’m using.

Blumat Automatic Watering Sensors - 5 Plant Starter Drip System - Made in Austria - Great for all Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQXFBWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ThyQBb5QBB12W

It didn’t seem to interfere. Although I did have 1 over water incident 2/3rds or the way through maybe the roots prevented it from sensing saturation. After I reset the dial it was fine hmmmm.

I bought this ball and socket hose on Amazon. link to hose It's 1/4 inch which turned out to be too small for my long denim furby. I think it would work for a smaller furby with more flexible fabric. I'm looking for something similar that's 3/4 inch or larger if anyone has a link :)

Go to your local nursery or the gardening section at a supermarket. Have a look at some of the watering cans. I have seen many households that use them.

Like this maybe? (canadian website)

OR

Fancier AND cheaper (US website)

They usually come in a variety of colours and so, can match your washroom tiles as well and so wouldnt look very out of place.

Hope this helps!

Fermentation temp will be higher than ambient, so 65-72 ambient could be pushing you out of optimal for some yeasts, though you could be fine.

I bought a chest freezer on sale and an inkbird temp controller and this works well for me and would fit in your budget. Even more so if you’re willing to find a Craigslist freezer. My (7 cu ft?) freezer can squeeze in two PET carboys if needed, though I currently just do 5 gal batches.

Skip this. It is going to fugg up on you and you wont be able to fix it. You got a few things to automate. It aint so hard. Most of it you need anyhow. Last item is the most computer automation you need.

1. Lights- easy they are on a simple mechanical timer. 12/12, 18/6, 24/0 are common settings.
   
   
2. Water- I use a rainbird drip irrigation.
   . Simple to set water timer. Buy the parts you need in bulk if you have a lot of plants. Drainage also needs to considered. Water can be collected and moved with a condensation pump. Low Depot has them.
   
   
3. Fert- I am a soil guy so I add dry organic ferts into the soil before planting. They are generally non-water soluble. And become more available over time.
   
   
4. Temp- I use fans/filter combo with simple plug-into thermostat. I prefer 8" to 6" diameter fan.
   A simple heater with thermostat set for 70 will turn on as needed.
   
   
5. Humidity- Dehumidifier's are cheap on Craigslist. I set mine to 50%. The water collected goes into the drain. Humidifier is usually needed when lights are on set to 50%. I add water automatically to it from drip irrigation line any overflow goes into drain.
   
   
6. CO2- if you are doing this it. The controls necessary make it automatic except for CO2 tanks. If you use a burner you can conect to your home gas service so there is no tank change.
   
   
7. Get a temp/humidity logger than can send alerts to your phone. Avoid ones that require a regular service fee. I like and use a sensorpush. There maybe better ones available now I havent looked in awhile.
   
   Get a calendar, set up a schedule for 8 weeks harvest. Plan to be home for harvest, cleanup and replanting. You might want to try autoflowers. They need less interaction. Hit me up if you have any questions.

I live in an apartment so I can't modify the faucet. This thing works like a champ.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPFYG4/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hFwwtb1DQ7V53

Here is the pump I’ve only been using it a few weeks so I can’t tell you anything about its longevity but I like it. You can set it to run for 1-99 seconds in intervals from 1hr to 30 days. Unfortunately that means a little math. For example I found with my setup it pumps 1 gallon in 540 seconds. So for 1/4gallon / day / each of 3 plants = 68 seconds of watering every 4 hours.

If you get it don’t use the clear tubing that comes with it. Get some proper black irrigation tubing so you don’t get stuff growing in the lines.

I mean.. I'm in an apartment lol. There is barely enough room for me let alone water barrels! I like the idea though. I ended up ordering a clamp thing from Amazon (Claber 8583 Koala Indoor Faucet Adapter https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000BPFYG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JbArDbCCE0QDB). It seems to be working! Just was difficult to figure out if it would fit the specific faucet before ording.

Orbit 21005 Watering Smart Hose Faucet Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758V2JQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oy0rDbE8PWVCJ

Currently on sale, this might fit your needs

Edit: the version above is for Bluetooth, if you need WiFi remote capabilities you can buy one with the WiFi receiver bundled

Orbit 21004 B-hyve Smart Hose Faucet Timer with Wi-Fi Hub, Compatible with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758NR8DJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iE0rDb0APF6ET

Get 4 of these ($35 each)


Orbit 21005 Watering Smart Hose Faucet Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758V2JQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r7zvDbA3M2FS1

and a 4-way manifold like this: https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/watering-irrigation/garden-hose-shut-off/yardworks-reg-brass-4-way-manifold/31007/p-1444427390208.htm

Yeah, it's like $150, but they are individually controlled by wifi/bluetooth and you can turn it into a DIY irrigation system for use during the entire growing season.

get a brass nozzle like this and then attach it to a shutoff valve like this to control the flow. will never break.

This is a complet waterfarm kit, just need a res and grow chamber It's not very expensive but good stuff still.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007NHRYH0/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_0fkJzbP9SDQDE

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I ended up getting 4 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M676JAS/

They worked great for the Spring-Fall seasons last year, and then I put in an in-ground system and sold them on Craigslist.

This automatic watering system is what I got. It's easy to program, and I did get the charger like Amazon recommends and modify it to run on wall power instead of batteries, that was no problem if you can solder.

It works well, has 10 water output lines, but since each only puts out a small stream, I am using 8 lines going into my one 7 gallon pot. With the 8 lines, if the bottom of my water container is a bit more than 1 foot below the soil level of my plant, the device puts out around 20 oz in 30 seconds.

Also, when I left for 10 days I didn't have any good way to keep the reservoir mixing, and when I returned there was definitely precipitation and buildup in the remaining water in the reservoir. My nutrients then were basically just what the bottle says on the GH grow, micro, and bloom. I did put a bubbler into the water to try to keep it mixed and aerated, but at some point the air line came out, so I don't know how long it was stagnant. All that said though, my plant looked good when I returned, I was expecting it to be much worse.

Mah babies! I started this grow (grow 4) with 6 plants.

Two Lemon Tsunami plants died in a horrible fire bravely clutching their balls.

Because I waited so long to flower them I had to re-home one girl. But she has wonderful new parents and I am sure I will see bits and pieces of her in the fall.

That left me with 3 plants. They more than fill the 4x4.

I have them under 1000W HPS. This is the last grow under my original bulbs and the next grow will be with new bulbs. Temps are good right now running in the low to mid 70's.

The girls are in 3 gallon pots of straight coco. I topped them once, squished their stems and LST the hell out of them. Just before flipping I snapped the PE#2 right down the middle. Hardy little fuck. Tied her back together and didn't loose any colas.

They started flowering a week after I flipped - they were more than ready.

I am currently hand watering 3/4-1 gallon per day of nutes. I can miss a day because I am in the 3 gallon pots vs the 2 gallon last time.

I got my AWS Waterer. So I am going to set up an automatic watering system. (https://www.amazon.com/CONTINENTAL-AWS-10-Automatic-Watering-containers/dp/B007NHRYH0)

Nutes are running 500-700 PPM right now. It is a mix of Green Plant 3-Part, Green Planet Massive, Diablo Cal-Mag, Marianas Kelp, Cannamax Potasium Silicate.

A sink hose adapter runs $10-15 at any home improvement store and let's you connect a garden hose to a kitchen sink.

Edit: Apparently Amazon has them too

I've been thinking of something like this flexible coolant hose and modeling up a screw on base with mounting holes and a camera holder for the other end.

I've thought of mounting it either on the control case where those random screws are or drilling my own holes on the left side of the vertical support.

basically bought this https://www.amazon.ca/Automatic-Irrigation-Houseplants-Programmable-Operation/dp/B0743F4532/ref=sr_1_19?crid=11LXMM521O95X&keywords=drip+irrigation+system&qid=1559330762&s=gateway&sprefix=drip+iri%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-19

​

1. a tote/water storage bucket
   
2. 1/4 inch tubing, I think I've used 30-40 ft but that's cuz I've messed a bunch up
   
3. 1/4 inch drip emitters
   
4. 1/4 tubing connectors
   
5. just bought a 130 GPH pump (coming in mail)
   
6. 1x digital controller on amazon (idk there are dozens), (coming in mail)
   
   ​
   
   You can get pretty much everything from Home Depot. They have a section for drip irrigation at the big one near me.

You need this device and a heater. It can be used to cool also. It has 2 outlets for each. Set it and forget it. Other redditors told me about it and it's a blessing. Inkbird

I haven't used one of these but if you're able to clean your bike off on your balcony, this might be a decent option: http://www.amazon.com/Claber-8583-Indoor-Faucet-Adapter/dp/B000BPFYG4

THE ZON!

I don't know if people realize this but those arms are used to direct streams of water for a bunch of applications like CNC work.

There's a pretty wide variety of watering methods. In general though you don't want to water at all until your prop starts to produce roots. At that point most people begin doing a light misting every couple days.

I personally don't prefer to do that because I don't like to get the props wet. I leave my props mostly alone while they're still attached to the mother leaf. I go in with a small spouted watering bottle like this maybe once every two weeks and put a small amount of water right on the roots. Other than that I just keep the roots covered and leave them alone.

I don't begin watering consistently until the mother leaf begins to dry up. At that point I transfer the prop from the starter tray to a small pot with drainage and begin to water it like a normal succulent.

Yep. 9 months of the year, anyway. I hook one of these to the exhaust on each tent. Set it to kick on at 76, off at 73.

In the Summer, they run all the time during lights on (holding at ~80 degrees). Fall and Spring they run about half the time. I'm in a cold climate, so in my winters I have to make some adjustments (62 degree ambient).

During the cold months, I leave the thermostat in place, but run a small duct fan before the exhaust, which runs 24/7. It's enough to keep humidity from building up too much, which it would normally. Especially during the dark cycle. . .also, I run COBs and Strip fixtures, which generate very little heat, so Jan/Feb my tents might not hit 76 degrees, at all. Then I dial down, and grow everything between 62 degrees (dark) and 72 degrees (light).

TBH, I've only done one winter cycle with the COB/Strip LEDs, but the plants grown in the cold were better, quality-wise, then the summer plants. Although a bit less yield. . .all that is anecdotal, of course.

Oh, also, if you aren't already, consider how to exhaust back into your room as the cold weather comes. It'll keep humidity up, and you won't be exhausting warm air, only to pay to warm that air again.

Drip irrigation.

You get a Galcon Timer which yes, it's battery-powered it used a 9-volt battery which should be replaced three times a year.

That plus a Drip Irrigation Kit and some more Drip Emitters and more Tubing and your elbows and your t-fittings is basically all you need to build out an irrigation system.

You may want a few landscape stakes to hold the tubing in placewhile you setup the system.

So I have one question: are you sure it's "servo-actuated" valves or just solenoid valves?

If you're concerned with just on/off, I use solenoid valves all the time. You're really looking for low flow rates for the houseplate irrigation system, so it will be cheap too. Amazon example.

If you're actually concerned with the RATE of flow that servo valves would give you, I'd recommend that you either control the flow from the pump (modulate frequency), or use rate limiters specific to each plant. Like this will limit it to 1 gallon/hr.

The MDF base board was like $12 at Home Depot, I had them cut it in half. The arms are these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O14864/ if you didn't see the link. I think the hardware store has gator clips for like $3. I guess with Sparkfun you're really paying for the aluminum base.

Adapter

Cord

Looks like they're often ordered together

this is my first time hearing about blumat. can you describe which tote resevoir you use, and how you connect the reservoir to blumat? I saw this kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Blumat-Deck-Planter-5-Pack-Starter/dp/B00IQXFBWA/

But it looks like one still need to get the reservoir the tubing/connectors for the reservoir?

There are adapters available ( like this one or this one ) if you do want to use your sink.

It's because it's actually flexible tubing for coolant: (forgive the mobile paste) Leadingstar GEN09015 Plastic Flexible Water Oil Coolant Pipe Hose, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O14864/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6bHXKRlBQQs2B

Low 30's would be freezing temperatures and overkill IMO. Low 40's is plenty cold for beer. I would recommend not wasting a shitload of money on a fridge and just get a reasonably priced one and then hook it up to a temerature controller like this. This will allow you to hold consistent temperatures +/- 2-4 degrees F.

I just set up a really basic watering system so that they got watered while on vacation, using:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JPIJG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018WVNXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 (I should have gotten larger, but this works)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I timed how long it took for the pump to go thru a 5 gallon bucket (my normal amount to water) 3 times, and set the timer to go off for a little longer than it took on average, on the day I wanted them to get watered.

I'm now using it to water since I'm in flower and it's easier to just let it water them while in darkness, since I'm only awake for a little time they are getting light.

Check out this controller.

[Rachio](Rachio 3 WiFi Smart Lawn Sprinkler Controller, Works with Alexa, 8-Zone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZ864Y9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3QDIBb1EN0DSY)

Inkbird thermostat, I figured it would be good enough to use temporarily. I have my other snake on a Herpstat 2 and I intend to use it for the BP too, once she's done with quarantine.

I use this temp gun to check the temps under the hide, at least once a day.

How long do you think an inverter/car battery setup would run a small water pump to water plants? What would be a good way to recharge the car battery? Are you saying there are more options to run a water pump/timer remotely? Cause my crop is far away from traditional means of power and water and I'm trying like crazy to find a reasonable way to do this so I can setup automatic watering.

This is way originally have me the idea for a battery operated pump with a timer. It gets so many mixed reviews about quality that I'm hesitant to try it.

DIY Micro Automatic Drip Irrigation Kit,Houseplants Self Watering System with 30-Day Digital Programmable Water Timer 5V USB Power Operation for Indoor Potted Plants Vacation Plant Watering [Gen 4] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743F4532/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.NyBDb95WRT4W

It is time you need to control, not how many gallons of water come out of the sprinkler heads. Your greenery will dictate how many gallons per week you need to keep everything looking good. Investing in a system that can adjust to your weather will pay off after a few seasons:

https://www.amazon.com/Rachio-Smart-Sprinkler-Controller-8-Zone/dp/B07CZ864Y9

Depending on the shape of your spout, you can use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPFYG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1487694645&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sink+to+garden+hose+adapter

Or, get a small submersible pump and a decent sized cooler and run a loop.

M36x2.0

Typically people have used Gardena hose fittings as the ends of custom extensions

http://www.amazon.com/Gardena-39035-8-Inch-Garden-Connector/dp/B002VED3KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1400613035&sr=8-1&keywords=39035


Also Virpil sells extensions that fit the Cougar/Warthog (their bases use the same connector).

here's an example of one. Looks like I was slightly off on the price as it is 38.

http://www.amazon.com/CONTINENTAL-AWS-10-Automatic-Watering-containers/dp/B007NHRYH0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Fish tank pump on a smart plug?

I use one of these for my normal watering without the auto function.


DIY Micro Automatic Drip Irrigation Kit,Houseplants Self Watering System with 30-Day Digital Programmable Water Timer 5V USB Power Operation for Indoor Potted Plants Vacation Plant Watering [Gen 4] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743F4532/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ky3BCb9APHBAN

But unfortunately at the max setting it only does 1/2gal per time interval and only equal time intervals. It works well with autos in small pots and just to keep plants from totally drying out if I go out of town.

$70 for just the timer is a rip. here is just the timer for $41. The price of the combo fluctuates a bit, but is worth it even at $70

good effort, but don't get that one, get this one. it's cheaper, by the same company, and the probe is designed for aquariums:


https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Inkbird+Digital+Temperature+Controller+Thermostat&qid=1554760604&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-3-catcorr

they are flexible coolant tubes, and then you just jam and glue alligator clips in the ends of them

https://www.amazon.com/Leadingstar-GEN09015-Plastic-Flexible-Coolant/dp/B008O14864/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=coolant+flexible+tubes&qid=1555957925&s=gateway&sr=8-4

The blumats have a 30gal resevoir with a pH controller. This has basically cut my weekly work in half. I just top off the res every couple weeks.

That's a 3x3 tray, so that leaves 6 inches on all sides for some pavers to hold up those shelves. I use a transfer pump and wand to feed from 5gal buckets and then pump the runoff out of the tray back into a bucket for reuse outside for my strawberries.

Edit: Here's what it looks like from above

Yeah, I suppose that would work. All you would need then is just a single stage temp controller such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5149652

A Gardena hose connector to use their M36 nut:

https://www.amazon.com/Gardena-39035-8-Inch-Garden-Connector/dp/B002VED3KW

A suitable diameter PVC or aluminum tube.

PS2 extension cable - can bough the connectors and assemble one in desired extension, depends on your DIY skill.

Basic there: https://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/225157-thrustmaster-warthog-extension-and-absolute-aim/

Other examples in DCS forum, SimHQ.

But VirPil, Baur, MFG extensions is affordable.

I used this when I was out of town for a week, worked well :

DIY Micro Automatic Drip Irrigation Kit,Houseplants Self Watering System with 30-Day Programmable Water Timer and 5V USB Power Operation for Indoor Potted Plants or Vacation Plant Watering [Gen 3] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743F4532/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5g1KBb3B2ZMHR

Leadingstar GEN09015 Plastic Flexible Water Oil Coolant Pipe Hose, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O14864/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6.QNybC2AFKMP

I prefer these, over a gorilla pod, just remove the nozzle, insert a screw into the nozzle, crimp a clamp on it, and go. Similar to the helping hands Hobby Creek sells.

You can try this item from amazon. It gives you a hose connector without the need of threads. I used to use it when I brewed inside. http://www.amazon.com/Claber-8583-Indoor-Faucet-Connector/dp/B000BPFYG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320278321&sr=8-1

it's better (and cheaper) if you can avoid those emitters though because they are not very reliable either... They get clogged up all the time for me. (talking about this: https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-SW10-30PS-Irrigation-Watering/dp/B0049C76S4)

I got mine off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IQXFBWA/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_x_1_w

You could get a programmable timer that attaches to a faucet, and pick up some irrigation tubing at your local hardware store - they have all sorts of nozzles / sprayers / drippers that could be set up to auto-water your outdoor plants.

If you're in an apartment (with no faucet access) another alternative could be to get one of the pump systems that attaches to a bucket. I'm not sure if it would be strong enough to mist/spray, but perhaps just some dripping water in the right place would be enough?

This is the system you want https://www.amazon.com/Blumat-Automatic-Watering-Sensors-Starter/dp/B00IQXFBWA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541090568&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=blumat&dpPl=1&dpID=41dHaopxgeL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/Claber-8583-Indoor-Faucet-Adapter/dp/B000BPFYG4/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1412103740&sr=8-11&keywords=hose+adapter

Claber 8583 Koala Indoor Faucet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPFYG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U.CLzb96184GR

This might work for you.

$10 sink adapter would have worked, or this adapter for even cheaper depending on your sink

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPFYG4/ref=pd_sim_86_6?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BPFYG4&pd_rd_r=TX6NDP511EN0B22G0TNZ&pd_rd_w=TjCWM&pd_rd_wg=Ojn0F&psc=1&refRID=TX6NDP511EN0B22G0TNZ

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/outdoor-living/detailpages/claber/claber-koala-howtouse-sm.jpg

I use this takes a second to connect to the faucet.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJDSP7MvBiA

I'm stoned so I decided to price out a DIY recirculating drip [single unit] for you with links!

• Waterfarm Plumbing Kit (amazon) - $12.28
  
  
• 10" net pot lid (amazon) - $8.54
  
  
• 5 Gallon Bucket (amazon) - $11.04
  
  
  $31.86 for a DIY recirculating drip bucket
  
  If you don't have an Air Pump you're looking at $38.86.

https://www.amazon.com/Gardena-39035-8-Inch-Garden-Connector/dp/B002VED3KW

Here is the VIRPIL adapter kit I was looking at.

Here is the MFG option.

Here is the DIY option I found using the Gardena hose adapter and PS2 extension cable.

i got this and put it on a 5 gallon bucket

I've seen a raspberry pi and Arduino setup in the microgrowery sub.

This was the pump system used if I remember correctly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NHRYH0/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_0fkJzbP9SDQDE

Either look for watering spikes, which you attach on to bottles and stick those into pots. Or invest into an automated system for water containers. There are even lots of DIY ideas around the net, from driping systems to little arduino setups.

I wouldn't chop, but look for an option instead. Five gallons are big pots and unless your temps are on the high end i'd water heavily beofre and look for an option that waters it once after that.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NHRYH0

I'm looking for that in a nearby futur.

https://www.amazon.com/Leadingstar-GEN09015-Plastic-Flexible-Coolant/dp/B008O14864

i used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O14864/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and it was cheaper than the spines sold on ebay! i used 3 out of the 6 so you can make 2 long furbies from this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O14864/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Blumat-Medium-Box-Kit-Irrigation/dp/B00IQXFBWA?th=1

Or go to any hydro / garden store, blumat or drip irrigation

In practice your plants can probably dry out if it's about a week. Two weeks and they might not come back.

You need a thermostat. Place the probe between the map and the bottom of the tank. All below the tank. Inexpensive thermostats:

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/

I am using one of these personally with a pair of Eheim heaters:

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/

Someone a few weeks ago had a similar issue and used this thing and said it worked...

You need this!

Haven't grown my koji yet because I'm on vacation, but here's what I purchased and it all works:

​

- Humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ND7N8L/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Perforated pan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E95D6H0/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Pan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VZ6Y4O/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J1E5LWM/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015FKG4CC/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Heating pad (I fold it in half): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7U259C/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Styrofoam container: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NO6F8E/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o05\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DIY Micro Automatic Drip Irrigation Kit,Houseplants Self Watering System with 30-Day Digital Programmable Water Timer 5V USB Power Operation for Indoor Potted Plants Vacation Plant Watering [Gen 4] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743F4532/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.y8BDb92BV4CB

Not sure if this is too small or simple for you but I just installed this in my covered raised flowerbed. I just ran the line across the roof and attached the little orange pieces (misters) every few feet or so, works fantastic.

KORAM IR-D 50 Feet Blank Distribution Tubing Hose Plant Watering Irrigation Drip Kit Accessories Include Atomizing Nozzle Mister Dripper, 1/4-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JPIJG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MmLVAbYWQWHWD

If it's only a few succulents you have problem watering, you can use something like this

That small pressure washer should work fine for spraying out screens. This is what I used for a while to connect a hose to the bathroom faucet..

I believe it's M36x2.0. I made an extension out of some copper pipe and a hose connector. The hose connector felt a little bit loose, but ultimately worked.

Album here.

The most common thing I've seen done is to use this Gardena hose repairer for the M36x2 thread: http://www.amazon.com/Gardena-39035-8-Inch-Garden-Connector/dp/B002VED3KW

Then work with PVC, pipe reducers, etc from your local hardware store.

I know you said no Internet ordering, but there it is.

No need to drill anything, you can get a 1/4 inch drip irrigation set from amazon for like $25. comes with the atomizers & drip heads and splitters and all.

Example... not hocking the product.. just the first one that came-up on the search.

https://www.amazon.com/Koram-Distribution-Irrigation-Accessories-IR-D/dp/B013JPIJG4/

I believe there is also a spongy slow drip type tube/hose out there as well I just cant remember the name of it. "Worst case" you poke some holes in some 1/4 inch vinyl tubing using a needle to get the same effect.

Dude, My flat has no outdoor water faucet so I got [Indoor Faucet Adapter](https://www.amazon.com/Claber-8583-Indoor-Faucet-Adapter/dp/B000BPFYG4 and once connected I can run water through my wort chiller all day. Check the vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJDSP7MvBiA

They are basically slightly modified flexible coolant pipes with crocodile clips screwed in the tips. If you're on a tight budget you can buld the thing using very cheap components instead of splurging for the finished product.

This is so easy, Get a Indoor Faucet Adapter Walmart sell's them also. Check out a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJDSP7MvBiA I have one and been using it for almost a year with no problems, Takes seconds to attach and use.