Reddit mentions: The best lawn mower parts

Blades: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PQ2AXW/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_tr_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

If you can stock these, and price point it within $5, I'm in.

> Do you think surveys, and similar forms of communication, are good or bad?

I think it's terribly impersonal and unsuccessful. You're essentially throwing a form at an existing or potential customer saying, "here, fill this out". Instead, I'd be much more impressed with doing the things that you're doing. Getting out and talking to people. I know labor is expensive, but why not leverage the knowledge and passions of your younger workforce, 1 hr every couple days, to scan the social networks and interact with the community to help them solve their problems using your products?

Now, I've never been, nor will I ever be, on Facebook, or any of the other major social networks. However, I will say this. You guys need to find a way to inject yourselves into the conversations. If you can somehow detect that someone from the QCA posted a message like, "I need to put down fertilizer this weekend.", that would be a perfect opportunity for you to directly reach out to that customer and say, "hey, K&K here, we have a ton of that stuff at a great price, and while you're at it, don't forget about grub treatment. also, stop by and speak with (insert name), and they'll give you a great deal on aerator rental". See where I'm headed here? Hold a discussion with them, just like you would out on the street. Traditional advertisements simply don't work any longer.

Look over the posts in /r/quadcities over the last couple months. You'll see people who need help finding things, from apartments, to restaurants, to activities, to health care, banks, bicycles, etc. They're all reaching out for personal interaction and recommendation.

So there's something for you to figure out. Maybe there's someone over at /r/advertising or /r/marketing that has done something similar.

This is a good start, and should keep you busy for a while. The main things I would add are long tweezers:
http://www.amazon.com/Bonsai-Tweezer-and-Blade-Tool/dp/B000O560FK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368835403&sr=8-1&keywords=bonsai+tweezers

I use mine all the time. The other thing you'll need is cut paste. These are the two kinds I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Joshua-Roth-6044-Bonsai-Paste/dp/B000X36W7O/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1368835488&sr=1-3&keywords=bonsai+cut+paste

http://www.amazon.com/Joebonsai-Bonsai-Pruning-Compound-Kiyonal/dp/B000NJFLHA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1368835488&sr=1-1&keywords=bonsai+cut+paste

I use both kinds regularly, and wouldn't start a project without having both handy.

These and what you've already listed makes up most of my kit. FYI - 3.0mm wire and 3.5mm wire can be pretty useful too. If you're on a limited budget, maybe swap out the 1.0mm for 3.0 and call it a day.

A root hook is useful too, but if you're getting a tree that's already potted, you can get away without one for awhile.

Here's a free item to add to your kit - a long wooden chopstick. Super-useful for potting, helps tamp down soil into hard to reach places.

Also, if you're not planning on doing major pruning, you can easily get by with just concave cutters and some nice shears. Knob cutters are amazing, but unless you're cutting back major branches, they can be an expensive "nice shiny tool" in your toolbox.

A note on tools. You absolutely get what you pay for. I've had a set of imported japanese tools for close to 20 years that was pretty expensive at the time, but they still work almost like new. Cheaper tools generally won't last nearly that long.

EDIT: Oh yeah, you'll need a wire cutter.

Go to DoMyOwn.com and get a good preemergent. Preemergent stops new seeds from growing for the prescribed period. Most of these weeds will die each year after producing seed. A common preemergent in the US is Prodiamine. Liquid is more cost effective, but granular is easier to apply on large areas with a spreader.

If you let the weeds die at the end of the year, and apply the pre emergent especially during late winter or spring when the seeds germinate, you can cut down on the vast majority of the weeds. It will take a few years to get to a lush green grass. Even professionals won't be able to get you to a weed-free state in one year. You have to reduce the bank of weed seeds ready to germinate in the soil. And that takes time.

Any time you see the weeds reaching into the sky with their little flowers, you need to mow that down before they go to seed, or you will be starting over with a fresh seed bank. Keep the broad spectrum herbicide going too prevent them from going to seed.

For a yard that large, I would go as far as to recommend a husqvarna robot lawnmower. It is expensive up front, but for years of not having to mow the grass, and always having a perfect cut, it is worth the investment. I have it running in my yard and I am very pleased. If you buy it directly from Husqvarna, they have options to do the installation of the wire for free, which can save you a ton of heartache.

These are the shelves I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A0ZFRW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wheels are plastic and snap together. If you can find a shelving system with wheels that are really wheels, like hard rubber library car wheels or heavy duty casters that mechanics use to move their toolboxes, then I would think they would be just fine. Also, the wheels aren't screwed in, they just slide into holes in the bottom of each leg. They have a lot of positive reviews at amazon, but I wouldn't buy them again.

These http://www.amazon.com/Weber-70360-Locking-Caster/dp/B00JSVRNOI/ref=sr_1_54?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1425341758&sr=1-54&keywords=casters

are very similar to the casters that came with the shelves.

I would suggest something more like these that I have been considering replacing the old wheels with:

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Caster-Swivel-Bearing-Capacity/dp/B003E7ECMI/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1425341997&sr=1-9&keywords=casters


Or just go to your local home improvement or hardware store and explain what you want and why you want it. Sometimes they can be helpful

OK so the spring/coil unit wouldn't need to be hinged. It could be two legitimate pieces (his + hers), in the same way that a king bed can be made from two twin's today. They'd still both go within one fabric/foam wrapper. You'd clip them together before you zipped the whole thing up. The zipper's a neat in this case because you'd still put fitted sheets on the whole thing, and they'd be hidden even more.

Do the springs come from China in mattress shape, or it is pure spring metal packed for density. I'm trying to imagine those expensive containers docking in Portland/ San Francisco. So in most cases it's assembly in the US (or Canada). I had previously imagined you'd receive drums of wire, and make coils yourselves.

You joke about getting into the mattress business :) I'd previously been sketching designs for a standardized sofa and chair assembly 'model' also imagining soft coverings coming from the far east, and being assembled at home. In that case the sofa frames (say about three or four standard designs would be made from 2x4 (or similar) locally, but have a mechanism of tightening the frame within the fabric cover. That would allow no external zippers, but still a taught product that could be home assembled. Specifically the wooden frame could be tightend whilst being assembled by virtue of a ratchet jack - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TPYX9O - Either that was built-in, or is in-situ long enough for some of the wooden bits to snap "home". again the soft coverings could be ordered from a catalogue and delivered by UPS in a box, the wooden frames would be made on a jig in a local factory, and delivered through regular furniture channels or direct from the factory. The arms would clip on much more simply, and probably be modular in themselves versus the base. They may or may not come complete with the soft coverings. You get the added benefit that the whole construction thing can be reversed to got larger items out of smaller apartments or high-rises.

I'm just a software guy though : You're my only contact in the furniture industry :-P

I think rover is the wrong term here.

Autonomous Mars tractor would be more accurate description of what I'm thinking of.

Only needs to do a few jobs really well, can be "over built" by space standards spending mass fraction instead of design time. And it only needs to last 2 years until a mechanic comes to replace it's consumables like seals and any fluids, burnt out computers, whatever.

Otherwise it's just a box with wheels with standard tractor attachments. No fancy body or seats at all. Shovel on the front and a drill on the back. Future missions could bring more attachments, trailers for it to tractor, ect.

A KISS farmers tool made space worthy, not a NASA rover made farm worthy, minimum number of moving parts necessary. Possibly even remove the suspension entirely and make it a skid loader. Very few things are more simple to design and build than an electric skid loader.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skid-steer_loader

Two foot think solid rubber tires are going to take a LONG time to degrade even on Mars. BFS means you can bring those stupid heavy tires. They are worth the effort since you can use them for years if not decades.

https://www.amazon.com/Summit-Proof-steer-Tires-Bobcat/dp/B00DU4VFVG

Though might want to work with NASA's rubber experts to make sure out-gassing isn't a problem or some other edge case issues. Point still stands if you aren't trying to cut corners on mass you can KISS your way out of most the problems that have plagued rovers in the past.

After a bit of googling I found the part I need! It's a pump element (not sure what that means to be honest but that's okay). Thanks for the help

I'd invest in an inline carbon filter. They're typically used for indoor marijuana growing to disguise the very strong odor it produces.

Something like this.

I'd set one of those up near the window or where-ever the smoke enters at. You'll want a pre-filter to catch dust/big particles to make the carbon filter last longer and you can add a sponge at the end and buy various oils/scents and wet the sponge with it to help freshen the air as well.

I knew a guy who would grow 2 large hydroponic weed plants in a small room and you could not smell a thing because he used one of those carbon filters to vent it.

Here's another third party version of the same thing for 15.60 that ships free with Prime.

I just copied and pasted the name in the search up top. There was even a four pack by the original seller for seven bucks more than the first listing.

With a tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-AM130907/dp/B006RIL8WS or this https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-42-095-Small-Engine-Leveling/dp/B00TM8WJM8/

Put the mower on a level surface, like a concrete floor, then measure to the bottom of the cutting surface of the blade (the bottom of the angled part). To get accurate measurements, check when the blade is forward/back, and side-to-side to make sure the deck is actually level. Make sure to remove the spark plug wire from the sparkplug when doing this, since turning the lawn mower blade could start the engine up.

Morthy:

1. Tea of course! under $10 list.
   
   
2. I wouldn't wear a Totoro outfit in public. Clothes wishlist (but currently unavailable in my size).
   
   
3. Immersion blender phallic. For the New House wishlist.
   
   Akeleie:
   
   
4. I had a hard time with this one, there are many kinds of geek. I would be the most excited if I got this Tachikoma so I went with it. Default Wishlist.
   
   
5. This bonsai wire would let me wire some of my smaller trees. Bonsai/gardening wishlist.
   
   
6. A good saw is a good thing to bring on a deserted island. Bonsai/gardening wishlist.

I don't know what Vista charges per hour for service work but you could probably buy a few parts and tools to do most of it yourself and save some money. You could likely get most of the oil out through the fill tube using a fluid extractor like this one for $30 on Amazon.

You'd still need to get the drain plug out though cause it'd be pretty shitty to sell the bike with a stripped bolt.

Dump the oil and put in fresh oil. Install a fuel shut off or start using the one that's already on it, Some have them some don't. Look for it, it would be right under the fuel tank in the fuel line. Rebuild the carb or just take it apart and clean it. If you're careful you can do it without needing new gaskets or the rebuild kit. Or you could buy a new one http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-794572-Carburetor-Replaces/dp/B005F6QJIQ/ref=sr_1_5/184-7640043-4345928?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1413316706&sr=1-5&keywords=20+hp+briggs+and+stratton+carburetor

Search around you may be able to get one cheaper.

A rebuild kit is about $25 bucks but it takes a little knowlage to do it properly. If you've never done it before you might be better off with a new one. And put some Seafoam in the fuel. It'll prevent gunk build up and extend the life of the new carb and maybe even prevent this from happening again.

If there is a shut off you could just turn it on when you want to use it and shut it off after. The seafoam might even free up the stuck needle valve given some time to work. I'd try this first because I'm lazy and cheap.

You should be using the fuel shutoff anyway. This is the reason that put one on it in the first place.

This style puller might be the best choice with the flat side against the pulley or a three jaw puller.

You could also remove the OD End Bell and Stator, support the DE End Bell on two 2 x 4 s and try to drive the shaft through with a ½” rod or bolt. Crude Scketch

If that doesn’t work take it to a local automotive or machine shop and get them to use a hydraulic press.

Or just buy a new step pulley.

Those links are super high priced. Especially the second one. Notice the $124 one says 56 CFM....wow. Look into something more like this.

I just purchased this filter by itself for my own grow.

Hey Justin, thanks for checking in! I plan on getting this fan combo and hanging it outside the the tent, with a small carbon filter inside. I think I need a 6"-to-4" reducer in that case. Any recommendations for a low-profile one? And would this setup allow me to dial down the airflow enough to not stress the plants?

I chose the 5-gallon pots because I wanted to maximize my floor space while minimizing the height. If I only fill the pots with 3.5 gallons of soil, the height is less than a 3-gallon pot fully filled. My concern is maybe the roots don't want to grow outward. Can cannabis roots be trained to grow more horizontally instead of down?

Get one like this

It mulches and shreds.... works great in the fall for driving over leaves to get them smalll enough to leave on the lawn

https://www.amazon.ca/MaxPower-331749X-Commercial-Craftsman-Husqvarna/dp/B010B3AOGA

marbles No.9
marbles mini belt ax
*vaughan 1/2lb
these axes, I've read, are some good lightweight hatchets they may need a little work on the edge but from what i've heard they are nice for the price

So... I think this might be the greatest product on Amazon.

Looks like they're higher wattage than they used to be. Might be time for us to upgrade.

Ours is pretty compact. This one might be larger.

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Turbine-400Watt-Generator-Controller/dp/B0774HDGWN/

This. You hook a fan up to it and it pulls air through a dust filter then through the activated charcoal. Takes care of the smell completely.

I've had this on my Amazon wish list for over a year now:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IISFL64/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_BWeFwbN8E0HX9

This 400W on Amazon is priced really well. I follow a skoolie on Instagram that has it and likes it.

I've considered getting one for rainy days but have other things to spend money on right now.

Briggs & Stratton 5431K Oil Extractor Pump, 4-Liter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009POZ9YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_thhECbST4B23S