Reddit mentions: The best lighting diffusers

Absolutely! I'm gonna leave it here so anyone scrolling by can see it, but I'll also DM you and the other person who asked for it so you don't have to check back in the thread.

NEEWER 2-Pack 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light, LED Light for Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Panasonic,SONY, Samsung and Olympus Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07438JXM7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cIS2Ab7JHAYCT

(Despite some reviews claiming the battery life is poor or the output is low, I've had nothing but great experiences with these panels. With the batteries I use, I can do a surprising amount of shooting before the batteries die out. Not only that, I only have two batteries. So the fact that it is often enough for what I do is astonishing. Also, the output is just fine. In fact, bright enough at max output that it hurts your eyes without a softbox. With the softbox it is perfectly bright for most occasions. If you need brighter, look into the Neewer CN-216 or CN-304. Just be ready to warn people about their brightness.)

Neewer 5.9x6.7 inches/15x17 centimeters Camera Collapsible Diffuser Mini Softbox for CN-160, CN-126 and CN-216 LED Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXCGA28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CQS2AbBYSF5KE

(It has gone up a bit in price since I bought the two that I own, but it still offers excellent performance for the price. These are specifically made for the CN-160 panels. They diffuse light excellently, but at a minor cost. They are a bit of a pain in the ass to place onto the panel. At that price, though, you can't complain too much. You should be careful with them, as some have said that they don't take kindly to being handled roughly. My advise: take your time and do it carefully.)

Neewer 2 Pieces 2600mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery with Charger for Sony NPF550/570/530, Fit for Sony HandyCams, Neewer CN-160 CN-216 LED Light, Neewer 759 74K 760 Feelworld 759 74K 760 Field Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDC47YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gVS2Ab3RDJ319

(Outside of another tiny price increase, there's not much to say about these. They do the job incredibly well for what I put them through. However, NP F550 type batteries aren't meant to last incredibly long shoots. If you do long shoots, invest in a few more batteries and consoder using the larger capacity NP F750 type batteries.)

Fovitec StudioPRO - 2x 7'6" Classic Light Stand Kit - [Classic][For Photo and Video][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j0S2AbBBPVA2J

(These light stands have served me well. But, as with all cheaper gear, they won't withstand care that is too rough. They've handled plenty with me, but I recommend you try to take care of them. Other than that, they're just light stands.)

Bonus:

Neewer 12 x 12-Inches Pack of 8 Transparent Color Correction Lighting Gel Filter in 8 Different Colors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCIKB5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f3S2Ab6ZCYTAD

(Some cheap color gels. Get the job done.)

Of course I must include: This is all cheaper starter gear. It is not meant to replace the more expensive light kits that are much more durable, do much more and produce much better results. But restriction breeds creativity. And a passionate, new content creator with a creative eye will make the best of what they have. If you are a starting filmmaker, videographer or photographer, by all means, use this setup. Once you're ready to move onto better, more costly equipment, though, don't hesitate.

I don't consider myself a great photographer, but I can certainly help with this question for once.

Each year I visit DragonCon (like Comic-Con but less Comics more Sci-Fi and Fantasy Cosplay) and I shoot with the following setup:

• Nikon D750
  
• 35mm 1.8G
  
• Yonnuo Flash Gun
  
• Wireless Receiver
  
• Wireless Trigger
  
• And my most beloved piece, this flash diffuser
  
• [My camera strap] (https://holdfastgear.com/products/camera-swagg)
  
  
  This particular Round Flash diffuser is bulky and sometimes awkward in crowds, but I've tried out several including FlashDisc, various square diffusers, and another "macro" diffuser made by the same company. RoundFlash is by far the most beautiful light for the portability and effort at around $60.
  
  So basically I use a dual-camera strap except on my right hand I put the camera + lens + transmitter on on the left hip I've got the flash gun + the round flash diffuser. I know this sounds weird but DragonCon is also about partying, so this setup lets me literally go hands free while carrying two beers and leaving the flash / camera at my side.
  
  Moving the flash off the camera makes for much more flattering light.
  
  I typically shoot at ISO 400-800 depending on how dark it is, normally at F/1.8 - F/2.0 for single individuals, of course I stop down to around F/4 to F/7 for bigger group shots.
  
  
  Shutter speed I'll very the most, but I've gone anywhere from 1/160 anywhere up to around 1/800 if there is actually more light. After 1/250 your camera should be capable of High Speed Sync. Now if you have that much light, you don't necessarily need the flash, but I treat it like a portrait - I have the flash to separate the subject from the background, and to get those catchlights in the eyes, to me, makes them pop.
  
  
  I raise the flash up above my head basically treating it like a beauty dish, firing the flash down at them up and across 30 degrees. I'm usually only a matter of about 3-4 feet away. I do this with a 35mm and correct for any warping in Lightroom because at least at Dragoncon, its shoulder to shoulder and sometimes I can't step back and get a good photo.
  
  Of course you can save money here in a few ways compared to my setup:
  
  
• Skip the stupidly expensive shoulder strap - I just use it because I've got back problems and it helps weight distribution and helps me go hands-free if necessary.
  
• Could easily use a wire to trigger the flash and skip the transmitter / receiver. I just already had them, so I make use of them.
  
• You could do a cheaper lens / camera setup, but I'd recommend something fast enough to go to F/2.0. The camera also needs to be capable of High Speed Sync with the flash gun.
  
  I'm currently working on changing my setup to a Fuji X-100F that shoots at 2.0 and is way more light-weight than the D750, but I still use the same exact flash setup.
  
  Going to work, but here's a few examples, will post again later if you'd like:
  
  sample photos
  
  Edit: These are nearly right out of the camera, only adjusted slightly for shadows and highlights. Also added a few more details of my setup.
  
  Edit again: Before somebody says it, yes I underexpose the ambient lighting - I just kind of like that style. At cons there are always 100 people in the background, so exposing the ambient lighting down helps to minimize their presence in the photo.

Several approaches:

• All ambient/high ISO: This is the easiest to execute and will preserve the ambiance but will not be good for fast moving dancing other than a couple wide shots of the full scene. I would probably lean on this for the first dances and wide shots to preserve the ambiance.
  
  
• LED panel: will mostly preserve most of the ambiance but give some usable directional light.
  OCF: I dont like this in this scenario for myself because it will destroy the ambiance and create very harsh shadows in an otherwise soft nighttime environment
  
  
• Flash card or direct flash: sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Easy to do but pretty harsh lighting
  
  
• Hand held OCF beauty dish: I am really loving this hand held beauty dish setup that a friend [LukasG] showed me... It is great for chaotic dance floors to produce really dynamic light, outdoor situations, or just on the fly soft artificial. The best part is that this 18" beauty dish style soft box collapses down to 0.25"x5" and just slips into the back pocket of my main bag. I can pop it open and onto a speedlight head in less than a minute for truly on the fly situations with a very small extendable boom handle that I also keep in my bag or even just hand hold the speedlight and I always have it on me without taking up any space at all. The look isnt that dissimilar to a 36" softbox but way more portable and manageable.
  
  
• 18" Roundflash collapsible beauty dish... I actually use the cheap knock off one but they don't sell it on Amazon anymore but you can find ones for $19 on eBay.
  
  
• Collapsible boom pole
  
  
• 1/4" cold shoe clamps if you don't have some laying around already

So to get a little closer to what you were hoping for, you need exponentially more light to work with.

You CAN get a faster lens (lower f-stop number) but that means less of the dish is in focus. And you CAN push your ISO, but then you start introducing noise into the image (so minimize that as much as you can).

The best approach is really just more light.

Continuous lights (like what you have been using) are helpful because it's easier to see what you're doing, but it's more difficult to get as much light output as you need without also baking yourself and the dish ha.

Strobe lights are ideal for this kind of thing because they can put out a TON more light in each flash than continuous lights are capable of, and they won't heat up the space a ton, BUT they're harder to learn because you can't see what they're going to do while you're setting it up.

If you're stuck with continuous lighting, you basically need to add at least 3 more of those light fixtures, and then use something to diffuse/soften up the light so it spreads out.

The bigger the diffusion you use, the better it'll spread. If you've got enough space, something like this 5x7 diffusion panel is great but it's fucking huge so you need enough space to work in. Smaller panels like that do exist though, and you can also just use a shower curtain in a pinch (though it's a hassle to rig something like that so I avoid it if possible).

I personally use strobe lights with diffusion panels for this kind of thing - but it's a deep rabbit hole because you need light modifiers, and radio triggers, and light stands and sand bags etc etc etc.

Unfortunately the difference between mediocre photos, and really high-quality ones can be a pretty big leap.

Using daylight the way /u/kouignamann_kingdom mentioned is a good approach if you can set up your "studio" near a big picture window - but it's not the most reliable option. Can't shoot at night, can't shoot if the weather is crap etc etc so it's important to learn how to use lighting tools so you can control the look no matter how awful the weather is.

/u/Xpatisseriex - I have a [battery powered F&V R-300] (https://www.amazon.com/R-300-5600K-Daylight-Dimmable-Carrying/dp/B077ZWZYXC//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), which can be mounted on my camera or a light stand - plus the original [500W fluorescent Diva Ring Light] (https://www.amazon.com/Diva-Ring-Light-Original-Fluorescent/dp/B0149NXD4S//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [diffuser kit] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1HO3E4//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

[Here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPY0q0n3H-DVQo9K4Y22Xm3QPSXp0c3oUDeRTt2u2l792RPRmU5Fe7MLkhx1JYbMQ/photo/AF1QipMgKbr8Z8kl-OMGv6JJCQQfYEXqSdvi-i81X-1c?key=N1FIbWhvOTcwU19iSWtfWjlfbFpTcHVIbDY1Z1pn) is a picture of the F&V and the Diva together.

Love both of these lights for different purposes. The F&V is perfect for run and gun (as seen [here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM3LbnuC_GyMUY3hRRCFAEpRWZAsKtyvENamWONdg1Sk-rx1Wkb26IW-IrvvWse2w/photo/AF1QipNVJcr6tB-nEvJkEUXF_j3UdK_b20skjMX0UzHI?key=QXc1ekxabXFZb24tdEE4ajdwN3dmSUhPdmMxV2xB)) - while the Diva is a great studio light ([this video] (https://youtu.be/dYKjvnfwyvU) was shot with the Diva).

[Here] (http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html) is the review that convinced me to buy the Diva.

This is a great light that has served me well - plus, you'll get more light out of the 500W Diva than a 75W Neewer.

Hope this is helpful and good luck finding the right ring light for your needs!

It's unclear if your reason for getting only one is "which one should I get first?" or "which one should I get if I can only afford one?" If you can afford both, get both. Period. They each have their uses (for the situations you described), and both of them will come in handy for your needs.

If you can only afford one, get the faster glass. I'd recommend a 50mm f/1.4 because that extra half-stop can be the difference between unbearable and manageable noise... but if you can't afford a 50mm f/1.8 plus an SB-600, I'll assume that the 50mm f/1.4 is probably out of your price-range. That said, Craig's List can be your friend - I once bought a 50mm f/1.4 AF-D for $100 from a CL post.

The reason I'm suggesting a fast lens over a flash is that, frankly, it's a lot more versatile than a flash. An on-camera flash can only effectively light a fairly small area, and even then not very well if all of the surfaces are painted black, as they are in club environments. Also, many live shows don't allow flash, so it won't do you any good. A fast lens would allow you to continue shooting in such an environment, lit by nothing but stage lighting.

Now, for party/event photography, I'd definitely recommend the flash. Event photography tends to be specific individual subjects or small groups, and the flash really helps bring out color and skin tones. You can even adjust your shutter speed to let in the ambient, yet still capture good skin tones with proper use of flash. If you're interested, I wrote up a fairly decent tutorial on flash photography, how flash works (conceptually, as many people don't really understand it).

Unfortunately, you're kind of talking about two completely different types of photography, with very different needs. It really depends on what you're going to do more of, but as I stated above, I'd prefer the fast glass over a flash if I had to pick one or the other. Worst-case scenario, you can always use your built-in flash and a pop-up flash diffuser. Here's how to make one to experiment with, and here's one to buy for $10 that looks a little more professional.

• A circular polarizer filter. Great for outdoor shots.
  
• Black Rapid strap or similar. The included Nikon strap is not very comfortable.
  
• Flash diffuser. Huge fan of the Interfit. Small, collapsible and works great for most situations. Greatly improves even the on-camera flash.

I think the problem is that your light is to bright and harsh. This is most evident in the upper right corner where you've lost all detail in the pineapple's leaves (it just looks like one really bright blob) and how the sliced peaches (esp. the top one) have a lot of glare. You can pull the highlights down a bit in post-processing and it might look a bit better but shooting again using softer, more diffused light will make a lot more of a difference. Try putting a diffuser between your light source and the scene (diffusers can be DIY'd using wax paper, tissue paper, etc) and if you were using the built-in flash on your camera don't use it or try putting a DIY diffuser on it too.

Studio-style lighting is not something I'm very good at so hopefully someone else with more expertise might chime in, but I'm poor/cheap and like to experiment so I've had moderate success (or at least not total failure) wrapping cheap desk lamps I already owned in wax paper to get light slightly more diffused than I could otherwise. This is probably a fire hazard so don't leave them running if you're not around.

When you bounce off a wall, you're simulating a much larger light source (the whole wall). Outdoors where there is nothing to bounce off of, try putting something large and translucent (a scrim) between your flash and your subject. Look at http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-110CM-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371494710&sr=8-3 and http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox--1-4872-Premium-Reflector-Collapsible/dp/B003Y2EOBW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1371494710&sr=8-5 and http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-10BG-57-DIF-KIT-Collapsible-Diffuser-Lighting/dp/B003Y2KSF8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1371494710&sr=8-6

Or just make your own with some PVC pipe and white ripstop nylon. I'm sure you can find plans online for gratis.

The strobe illuminates the entire surface of the scrim, which then acts like a big sexy window light. This is what you want. If it's really sunny out, you can use one scrim to create portable open shade, and another to bounce the sun under it for fill light, and then you don't need a strobe at all. Just two or more minions to hold reflectors for you.

You'll likely want diffused light to prevent harsh lighting and shadows being cast across the stream. You can diffuse lights with a diffuser sock such as this, but make sure they don't get too hot.

It may be best to position 2 lights at ~45 degree angles pointing at you. This prevents direct light from being in your face but also cancels out shadow throwing from either light. It will give a nice, soft light effect wherever they are pointed.

I'm not sure what the setup is like behind you chair, but it may be a good idea to get a sheet or backdrop behind the chair, otherwise your viewers will see you in full lighting and an oddly dark room beyond that (think horror stream style).

Looks pretty good!

THis shoot could have really benefited with using a large diffuser mounted on a few C-Stands to cast shade on all your talent. You might also want to consider picking up a variable ND filter if you don't have one already to help isolate your talent from the background.

Keep on shooting!

Get a soft box diffuser for your flash like this one. If you get a mounted flash (which most recommend), something like this will work well. I have the second one and it's great.

I can see the album of the build but I don't see the white umbrellas over the lights? Unless you're referring to the normal lamp (not sure the right name for it) mantle/light cover?


Did you put mini light diffusers on it like these or something similar?


The end result is great!

Paul C Buff stuff is priced reasonably well, so is Elinchrom. PCB doesn't sell outside of the US/Canada though, or so I've been lead to believe.

Godox is a pretty decent discount brand, it's what I'm buying into. You could get an SK400II w/ Bowens mount ($132), it has a wireless receiver built into it. Then just pick up an X1 Trigger ($43), or the newer XPro Trigger ($70), for the camera she has, they make them for Canon (X1C/XPro-C), Nikon (X1N/XProN), Sony (XPro-S/X1T-S), Fuji (X1T-F), and Olympus/Panasonic (X1T-O).

7ft Impact Umbrella (black exterior, white interior) is $80. A diffuser for it is $25.

Impact also makes a Black/Silver umbrella, same price.

I looked it all up on Amazon.com, should save her quite a bit of money.

I am interested in getting into photography and recently ordered my first camera. I bought a Canon T5i w/ EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM Lens and a EF 75-300mm F/4-5.6 III Autofocus Telephoto Zoom Lens.

I am mainly interested in taking portraits, landscape and event photos. The events I work at are in everything from hotel ballrooms, private homes to convention spaces, almost always indoors with fairly dim lighting.

I've been trying to do some research on different equipment and gear that I would need, and came up with the following list. Is there anything that I don't need or a better alternative than I have listed? Is there anything I'm missing?

Thanks

"Nifty Fifty" Lens - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00X8MRBCW

Bag - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00CF5OGP8

Memory Card - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007NDL54C

Battery Grip - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0039VYN1Y

Speedlite 430 - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B010W2MAOO

Lightsphere - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JPY41RO

Book 1 - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1446302172

Book 2 - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/0134007913

GorillaPod - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002FGTWOC

Battery Charger - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU

Extra Batteries - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSL28

I use a Promaster 7500EDF with a basic Gary Fong Lightsphere and have for years.

I always found the Promaster is fun and efficient for beginners because it has a wee little baby flash on the front of it as well. It gives you have the option of having some extra fill on your subject, if you prefer, if you wish to play with bouncing the main flash.

Obviously your camera body, lens and shooting style affect how your images turn out, but this is what I have produced with my particular setup:

example 1

example 2

example 3

You need to use modifiers, not just the bare flashes.

See if you can get alarge foldable reflector / diffuser combo. You need to learn more about strobes. Strobes are far more about modifying the light rather than the devices themselves.

You want off-camera flash and to get somediffuser caps or something like this for your flashes, tune power. You should be able to do simple lighting with 1 flash with diffuser and a reflector. Make sure you turn off all other lights and or get your flash the same color temperature as the lights to eliminate having multiple tones of light.

Alternatively you can just try and get the products in a room with ample light?

I didn't / couldn't spend the money on a ringflash so I bought something else instead which makes a similar effect:

Roundflash for $100:

http://www.amazon.com/RoundFlash-Universal-Collapsible-Magnetic-Diffuser/dp/B00NQ6UT4W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417663672&sr=8-1&keywords=roundflash

The results are awesome in my opinion and I don't regret it at all!

One thing to look out for is the shadow from the nose. I can see from the highlight in her eyes the sun was to the bottom right of the photo. When laying down, you want their feet facing away from the sun so it casts a pleasing shadow on the nose. As a guideline, it should be at a 45 degree angle. You just want to avoid the nose shadow going up towards your subject's eye.

https://www.popphoto.com/how-to-create-dramatic-portraits-with-rembrandt-lighting#page-6

Also, look into getting a diffuser. The shadows won't be so harsh.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Lighting-centimeters-Photography/dp/B01MZ3TWDY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542780233&sr=8-5&keywords=photography+diffuser

​

I'm an avid window light shooter when I work with food as well, but of course now that the darker season has hit that isn't really an option in the evening time.

Alternatively, I use a cheap video LED and a small softbox. It's not ideal by any means, but it's a quick and mobile option in your price range and sits nicely on a light stand. Here's an example of it in use without the softbox on it, taken in a very dark restaurant corner. An assistant is holding it for me camera left.

If you're shooting in a small space, it will get the job done at the price point you're at.

Im buying my gf a soft box and a set of reflectors for indoor food photography.
will these work?
https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Continuous-Lighting-Equipment-Portraits/dp/B015DYIQ94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484681089&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=softbox+kit&psc=1


or


https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Lighting-Equipment-AGG814/dp/B00E4YS2XU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484681089&sr=8-3&keywords=softbox+kit


and


https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multi-disc-Collapsible-Photo-Reflector/dp/B00D6NWN6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484681493&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=light+reflector&psc=1

or does someone have better suggestions?

You'll probably have to move the lamp a bit, but there's stuff you can do for cheap to improve your lighting.

One option is indirect lighting. Go down to your local office supply store, get a chunk of foam core presentation board, prop it up somehow, and shine your lamp onto it in such a way that it bounces the light back to you. You can also get some diffusion, like this, and throw it over your lamp.

Here is a nice video explaining how a light diffuser works (Don't watch it if you want to do anything productive today his videos are very addicting). You can get light diffusing sheets on amazon for little money. You could also try working with light channels but I don't think it will work as a table top since the channel caps aren't flat and would make an uneven working surface.

Do you have one of these? The lighting will be harsher than a soft box with a grid, but you can dial down the speed light and get some really creative shots.

Simple on camera lighting, most likely a small LED bank attached to the cameras hotshoe. Something like this

Edited to add: The softness can come from a piece of diffusion taped over the light, or they make softboxes for the light I linked.

A diffuser on a stand between the light and the subject will help to soften the direct lighting.

This is just like the one I have I think.

i bought light box fabric and [a cheap desk clamp lamp] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HX2EVPS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages01) works fine

CN-216 $64.99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010FELA9K/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1511751532&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+216

Soft box $8.99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OXCGA28/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1511751532&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+216&dpPl=1&dpID=41HFsj%2BBBzL&ref=plSrch

Filters $9.99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZP45V8M/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511751737&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+216+filter

Stand $18.99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K69A0QY/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511751838&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+216+stand

Total: $103

I said fluorescent. They make fluorescent E26/E27 bulbs.
The one I use is similar to this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F823Q3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VdpkDbQJ9XBTF