Reddit mentions: The best lighting low voltage transformers

Sure! So, I'm currently overwhelmed with RGB LED strip wheels as it is right now, so they're from everywhere.

But, I've started to rely on 2 companies. One is Alitove, they have an Amazon store and an eBay store. Their a division of some large Chinese company, but all they do is make and sell LEDs - in all the usual formats. I've noticed that their strips seem to match the closest, no matter when you buy them - for me its a good sign. And their colors are really rich, especially their WS281x lights, just wish someone made a Z-Wave controller for the WS281x.

The other one is a SUPERNIGHT on Amazon. Don't know much about them, they appear to be a self-branded version of someones strips. Really good color reproduction. Though they are the ones that accidentally made me aware that you can buy an RGB light strip that is individual red, blue and green LEDs instead of the multichip 5050 packages we're used to lol.

As for power supplies, definitely recommend these guys - from 60 watt/5A, all the way up to 120 watt/12.5 amp.

So far, I've got a 60watt/5amp that's been running continuously for over a year at close to its max, with some bright cool white LEDs (Kitchen lighting), I've also got one of the 120w/12A supplies that's been running 24/7 for about 6 months now outside, running some WS2811 light strips. They are hard potted and stay really cool - I've had so many power supplies die trying to run a 10 meter length of white LEDs for any significant length of time.

In fact, I trust them enough that I'd almost mount them inside the wall next to the box, but I don't know if I could do it and still sleep at night.

So what I've been doing is using 4-gang old-work fiberglass boxes - 2 hour fire rated, they're pricey but you can but 2-3 or more 60watt supplies in a single one. I really wish they made these single-gang boxes with a 'pocket' in a larger size.

Honestly, it's overkill for sure - especially compared with what most elecchickens install things like this, from what I've seen. But I'd rather spend an extra $20 now rather than a fire later. Plus, if we ever sell out house, I don't have things like that hidden from people.

Thanks :)

You could write sequences easily enough, and in fact it would be relatively trivial to fire them off spontaneously with simple pushbuttons as input to your microcontroller. When I put that costume together, I wore a little custom switchboard like a watch that had the arduino installed on it along with a series of pushbuttons and rocker switches to turn things on and off.


Syncing to music directly might be tough - certainly doable, but it may just be easier to have buttons which perform preprogrammed actions. There are a lot of ways things could go awry when trying to line up audio with circuits. For professional shows it's better to have an engineer or two (on further viewing, it looks like they had 3 guys manning this in the show) on the sidelines controlling all that stuff, but if it's just you a simpler and more adaptable route might be to program 8 or so actions, wire buttons from the arduino to your fingertips to fire them off, and rely on your own timing and coordination to get things really moving. Just a suggestion to avoid overcomplicating things, and using such a technique also allows you to be a bit more adaptable (say, for example, if you want to use the surrounding music like at a club as opposed to needing your own).


Also /u/Tinkrr2 is right about the voltage requirements varying by brand - make sure you look into that. Finally, if you're looking to make this into a semi-permanent hobby then it helps to have an adjustable power supply handy. A beefy battery, a sizable power supply, a few barrel jacks, some Dupont connectors, and most importantly an adjustable buck converter will take you very far. I wouldn't worry too much about any of this now, but if you decide you like tinkering with electronics (especially LEDs, which have moderate power requirements) that would be a terrific start.

I hadn't frankly read up on them all too much until just now. I should really do more research :). The brand I bought has a comparison chart telling me you're right. Our lights are sufficient. If I get the chance I'll probably buy some that are a bit brighter but as it stands I really like the way they look and they're quite functional.

After I looked into the purported output though, I'm still a bit confused. One thing I've found is that lumen output isn't a truly quantifiable number. Yes, it's scientific but there are various other factors when it comes to led strips. The ones I bought are listed at 164L/Ft. At 36 leds/ft that breaks down to ~4.5Lm/Led. I couldn't find an output on the ones you linked, but these are rated at 15Lm/Led. My strip also has 600 leds per 5 meter strip while the brighter ones have half as many at 300. All in all, I have a feeling the second link will be brighter than the ones I bought, but on paper it says the opposite. These look pretty bright as well but again, are only advertised at 25LM/Led. Worst case scenario you buy two or three rolls at $10 a pop and just give them a go.

I don't think I linked this before, but if you want to use a standard switch and dimmer (as opposed to a wall wart) these are pretty slick. Just make sure to match the current requirements to however many feet of light you have.

I am also a neophyte, but have made several diy grow lights recently. Take everything I write with giant grains of salt.

You can buy a CXB3590 (3500 K, 36VDC) for $38 from digikey. An LED holder from newark ( http://www.newark.com/ideal/50-2303cr/led-holder-cree-cxa35-cob-array/dp/39X0077 ) runs about $3. You can buy a 900mA driver for it off amazon for $11 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSANIYC ). You can buy a household AC box and a light switch for about $5 from home depot. Scrounge a PC AC cable, some wire for the DC side, some solder. Dig through old electronics for a good heat sink, a fan. Ask some computer folks for thermal paste.

That would bring you close to $50.

From that you can make a 30W led light, I think get over 5000 lumens, and it'd probably be pretty good quality, and not terribly dangerous.

For the AC side, do everything in the electrical box, and make sure it's grounded. Random stuff happens, don't let it happen to you. Electrical shock sucks, but poorly done AC wiring stuff could get hot, start a fire, so putting it in a box is a must. And it's really nice to have a the AC switch. You could simplify, leave out the switch, and use wire nuts, but it's still absolutely necessary to do that in a box and ground that box.

On the DC side, I used these barrel connectors ( https://www.amzn.com//B06Y4YXRMC ) with the wiring to the LED. It's also nice. EDIT: I don't know what these connectors are rated for, but they seemed pretty sturdy.

Sorry, again, I have some electronics background, but I'm new to lighting, so it's foolish of me to even comment.

These feel sort of low-budget, but are very flexible in terms of application. Installation is part of the fun here. Start with a Hitlights 300 RGB - $30 (this recently dropped in price from $40) or a 150 kit Get as many of these are you think he'll want, depending on the space available. A 16-foot run of 300 will light up a small room. The 150s are more for accent lighting.

For each additional run, he'll want an amplifier if he needs them all controlled by one controller. You also need a power adapter for each amplifier, but this is included in each of the $25-30 kits. You can cut and splice them, but it's much easier and neater if you have the pre-made connectors - short strip-to-strip short strip-to-terminator or long terminator-to-terminator. I did my first round of installations without the connectors and it was pretty messy, so I strongly recommend getting them to ease things along.

Last, does he listen to pounding electronic music? If yes, a music controller.

This will probably work for you:

http://www.rfcontrolsystem.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=470&products_id=579

In the manual it doesn't fully tell you where to put the power leads. Hook it up like in the youtube video linked by the other guy. If the directions are backwards, reverse the motor. Red is + and black is -.

You will need a 12 V DC power supply. Often called wall warts or wall plugs. You can get one on Amazon, Fry's, Best Buy, etc. Here's the first one I found, I have no idea about whether it's a good brand or good price or anything. Read the reviews. It's a 2 Amp which exceeds the minimum I calculated earlier, but you could go for a 3 amp as well:

http://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Adapter-Regulated-Supply-Copper/dp/B00PJZQDDO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457316150&sr=1-1&keywords=12+V+wall+plug


You will need the little plug that take DC power as input and outputs a red and black wire. Here's an example:

http://www.amazon.com/5-5mm-2-1mm-Female-Connector-Camera/dp/B005CMP434/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk

You will also need wire to go from the plug to the board, and since there are multiple points on the board to connect to +12V and 0V, you will need jumper wires to spread to multiple terminals like she does in the video. So you need something like this.

Finally to cut and strip the insulation from the wires you will need something like this.

It's not quite the USB route but Prehaps if you used a benchtop PSU, you could power just about any regulated mod you'd like to (they're expensive)

You could use something like this https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Adapter-Converter-100-240V-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B01GEA8PQA and then connect it to a ge raptor120 https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/naos-raptor-series/25339 and set the voltage to 4V with a pot. and then power any single cell regulated device you wanted, dna40/75. you could also use the raptor to directly power your vape without the board.

I realize that's not the most convenient or direct route, but you're not going to easily get a USB plug to give your 20V and than you still have to make that usable. The tried and true method would be a computer PSU and a dna200/250/c, but you're looking at spending a pretty penny. Same if you were to try to buy a bench top adjustable PSU

​

Another option is since you're not using much power, you could get a dna250/c or a dna75c and plug it into a regular usb port, the 2A (10W) charger should be able to keep up with you vaping on it.

​

I think part of the issue with using USB-C is; the cables arn't rated to handle vaping current, and the chargers are.. 'intelligent' assuming you got the charger to push out it's maximum voltage of 20V, you still have the issue of dropping that voltage to something usable by a vape. most of the common buck converters you'll find that meet the 30W power are either 6/12/24 volts.

Yeah I got the warm white versions cause I wanted them less blue looking.

For dimmer this is what I got: http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Dimming-Controller-LED-Lights/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518684&sr=1-1&keywords=led+dimmer

You're also going to need a power supply. I got this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Power-Suppply-Driver-Transformer/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

However, I wired all my wires by hand. They do have jacks on them though as well.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Inline-Dimmer-LED-Strips/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518743&sr=1-4&keywords=led+dimmer

And then you can use a generic laptop type power adapter as long as the wattage is correct. I plan on revamping my setup at some point to make it easier to setup.

LED strips are wonderful for that. Amazon sells them.
I used LED strips attached to an outdoor light-sensistive timer put on top of the cabinets, so I have light-sensitive LED underlighting.
Quick shot of my lighting

[strip] (http://www.amazon.com/Hitlights-Flexible-Ribbon-Adapter-included/dp/B005GL5R56/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1370794301&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip)
power source
I put mine near the front of the cabinet, so they wouldn't ever be visable. If you want a wider range of light, put them closer to the back, and they'll cover the whole cabinet.
Good luck!

Thank you! That's incredibly helpful. I am building this from scratch and ordering parts as needed. For power then, would I be okay pairing this:

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Power-Adapter-Output-3261-24V/dp/B00E36W0LY/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1475153860&sr=8-32&keywords=24v+power+supply

with this:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI-Inc/PJ-202B/?qs=WyjlAZoYn50IHvPllDpQyw%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKEAjw97K_BRCwmNTK26iM-hMSJABrkNtb51Ll00FG37_QN4v3fhcR9uGDfqlBZcDeRaxRP5khqBoCSKfw_wcB

I picked a 6A power supply because I assume I need to account for the operating current as well - which is rated at 700mA. I am not confident on this point, however.

Edit: I guess I only need a 1A power supply for the Buckpuck. Some basics are still eluding me.

Are other LED drivers/MOSFET preferable to the Buckpuck, or better documented? Googling MOSFET certainly makes it seem very well documented, so I might give that a go, even though I already purchased a buckpuck. The cost of this setup pales in comparison to typical experiments conducted in the lab, so I have a bit of room for trial and error.

So something like this could be installed?

http://www.amazon.com/LET-60-Class-Electronic-Transformer-Lightech/dp/B002RSOULS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

It has a temperature regulator, so that should help mitigate any risks of overheating. Do I need to worry about the amps?

The lamps came in plain boxes from a Habitat for Humanity restore, kind of like a thrift store for housing supply items. I really like the look, but it's definitely possible that they were originally designed for motorized residences, rather than normal housing.

And you've saved me again, as I'm pretty sure I would have been really confused looking for the bulbs for this at Home Depot. I can head to Crappy Tire instead, and I'm sure I can find them there.

I guess you could call it DIY, but it was pretty easy. I bought the components from Amazon:

• 5 meter strip of "warm" led lights
  
• 120 to 12V 30 Watt power supply/transformer
  
• PWM Dimmer
  
  The transformer plugs into the wall and then into the dimmer (I extended the wires using 12v wire I had on hand and butt contectors) then 2 wires out of the dimmer into the strip of lights. The light strip comes with a standard looking DC connector, which I removed and just hard wired it. I also used the entire strip, but it can be cut every two inches at certain points. If you choose to cut the strip, you will need to solder the wires onto the strip. Since I used the entire strip I just used the included wire (after removing the DC connector thing)

I have retrofitted two kitchens with LED under cabinet lighting, both before tiling the backsplash, each at a cost under $100 USD. The first has been going strong for almost 10 years.

First, IMO under cabinet lighting is task lighting. It doesn't need to be dimmable and doesn't need to be RGB, just go with a warm or cool temperature depending on your preference.

This is what I suggest - I assume you are in the U.S...

1. Run 18AWG Low Voltage LED Cable 2 Conductor Jacketed in-Wall Wire from the back of a selected base cabinet through the wall(s) to each contiguous span of upper cabinets. These wires can terminate in a small box in, or under, the cabinet. The wiring also can be daisy-chained if needed. For example, a wire can be used to connect cabinet spans that are separated by a small distance, say by a range hood.
   
2. Wire a switched 110v outlet into the same base cabinet. This only needs to be operated by a single switch,, probably over the counter, or near an entrance to the kitchen area.
   
3. Use LED 5050 Flexible Strip Lights, Warm White 3000K 16.4ft 300 LEDs (or whatever color temp you prefer) inside Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels with Diffuser cut at custom lengths to match the widths of cabinet spans. These should be mounted at the front of the cabinet and a small wiring channel used to hide the wiring under the cabinet were it runs from front to back.
   
4. Drive the LED strips by a LEDwholesalers 12-Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 60W, 3204-12V (or something similar) mounted in the base cabinet with the low-voltage wiring and switched outlet.
   
   I used these items. This setup is simple and inexpensive, any one component can be replaced easily if it fails, and it can be controlled by a smart switch of your choice.
   
   If you want mood lighting, then you can wire 110v outlets above the cabinets and use one, or two of Philips - Hue Play White & Color Ambiance Smart LED Bar Light to shine on the ceiling, or use Philips Hue bulbs in your recessed light cans.

You could.

But there definitely are power bricks that can handle 16 drives. A 3.5" HDD like a Western Digital Red uses about 6.6w of power when under load.

I am not talking about shitty little walk warts btw but actual 12v bricks. Like laptop power supplies or the less sexy industrial. Aka AC-DC regulated switch power supplies.

example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRBN2L3/

It's a garbage power supply. Buy a decent one. Definitely make sure you don't overload it with too long of a strip. A 5 meter 12V strip usually needs 60W. Any fraction smaller than that and you can get a smaller power supply. If these words don't mean anything to you then you need to get learning on youtube.

I've had good luck with the 30W and 60W versions of this:

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Waterpoof-Suppply-Transformer-3207/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=led+wholesalers+power+supply&qid=1574379699&sr=8-7

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

As the /u/ratsta pointed out that amount of power would need more cooling than the space would allow and is probably far too bright

i think the 10w would be plenty and I was looking at RAM heatsinks to affix to the led if that would provide enough passive cooling?

if im understanding what youre saying this crude diagram with something like this as the power supply?

I really appreciate the all the help!

Yes, if you find the transformer, then replacing it with a 12v transformer that has a minimum rating below the draw of your LED lamps will make them work.
They are 3W each, so all six would be 18W, but I'm sure they rounded up. I'd make sure the minimum rating of the new transformer is below 15W just to be sure if you go with a transformer designed for halogen lights, or just go with one designed for led lights that is more than 18W as its max rating.

I recommend modifying it to use a standard household bulb. You are essentially building a sconce. I would look into something like these plus a 12V PSU like this. You will also need a socket like this.

I tried gutting the old fluorescent fixtures and putting these strips in them with these power supplies. I only did two of the 6 so far because I wanted to see how they held up after a year or so.

So far so-so, its more work than its worth and I would rather buy some than do the rest of them, but I haven't found any that look good and are hard wired for 110V (most have plugs).

I suppose I will finish them eventually as I already have all the parts.

Also, I can control them all with this remote, which is nice.

The Chanzon drivers on amazon are pretty cheap and work amazing for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSANIYC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14FP9XIRL6C1F

To power your controller and LED strip, you'll need a power supply/transformer like, LEDwholesalers 12 Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 30W, 3207 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Cu1tyb54516DB

The positive/12v cable connects to the PWR slot on the Fibaro, along with the positive cable from your power supply.

The longer the LED strip, the more wattage you'll need off the transformer.

I've found the above 30w to power a full 20 foot run easily.

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Lights: ($8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffusers: ($26)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519156674&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+zwave&psc=1

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

I know I'm not really answering your question here... but we just installed 5 more foot of cabinet space and my wife wanted some under cabinet lighting. I looked on Amazon and most of the stuff was pretty expensive.

I opted instead to do LED strip lighting and ordered 32' of it + transformer + dimmer for the same price as 24" of any of the other solutions. The pluses are:

• LED strips can be cut into 2" sections so you can cut it to length (soldering is required but very minor and simple)
  
• The strips have sticky back so you can stick it right under the counter. I used some glue to help some parts stay but not too necessary.
  
• Very low voltage and power consumption.
  
• Wires are easy to hide
  
  Pics are here: http://imgur.com/a/R6ynJ
  
  Here's what I got:
  
  Transformer/Power Supply
  
  Warm White LED Strips (16ft)
  
  Dimmer w/Wireless Remote
  
  I used 2x 16ft strips and it worked just fine. Came up to a total of $63.25
  

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0747NBTBX

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074HV582Q

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00004WLK5

You also need an insulator. The parts I used called for a Solo 2 18mm bong adapter but they are like $30cdn. I used DH gate. Search 18mm bong adapter and find one that looks similar to the solo 2.

Also, that power supply has gone up in price. I don't know if you wanna look for a different cheaper one. But that one is good.

Thanks! They were the first ones we put in - the BoM was super cheap too:

2 - LED rolls @ $11.64 (really used 1 1/4 of em)

1 - transformer @ $15.50

1 - connectors for the corners @ $4.99

Total cost was about $50.

The second set (under the sink and rangetop) is in parallel to the first because while the transformer could handle 1 1/2 strands, a continuous run may only be one strand

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Waterpoof-Suppply-Transformer-3207/dp/B0034GUEY4

I was thinking more like this, unless you want to be able to switch to 5v to test FCs etc, you probably don't need a variable supply. Quads will generally run very happily on 12v (about 3S)

I bought this driver: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o7BMybQDSS3MG

These LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHHLD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t8BMybSXEXV0P

And this is the result: http://imgur.com/n3E2Fkh

The LEDs installed real easy, the adhesive is strong and I've not had any problems in 6 months of use

I mean the siren isn't a bad idea, just not a 130dB one :) Since Wyze cam is currently the top comment, an easy solution would be to get a Wyze plug and plug a siren into it (note you need a transformer for the one I linked).

Now that said, the right thing to do would be to get a proper security system with door/window/motion sensors. There are lots, Ring Alarm is a popular cheap one currently (and yes it has a siren). You could still add a Wyze cam or similar to try to catch any intruders after the fact, but I would never rely on camera motion sensors for intrusion detection.

Just run extension cords behind the wall or within the cabinets. That way stove heat won't be a problem. If you want to save money just buy bulk wire. But if you connect more than 16ft of lights in a single circuit, then you needed an amplifier which needs to be plugged into an extra power supply otherwise the lights near the ends of the circuit will be dimmer and also off color. Color correctness comes from adequate power.

Forgot to add, would something like this work pretty good?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU8QBCO?psc=1

> Power Supply: ($14 x 3) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the compactness of this supply and I'm in a similar situation to the OP. I have about 6 of romex coming from the backsplash wall to each current set of halogen under cabinet lights, which is somewhat limiting where I can relocate the power supply without dealing with pulling new wire. These are small enough where I may be able to just keep them under the cabinet. Thanks for the part links.

You need an LED "driver" like this to get you to 12 volts DC for the LEDs. Then you can use a 12 VDC dimmer like this.

I haven't seen any 120v Zigbee controllers that output to 12/24v DC. Only ones like this for normal lighting fixtures: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSK1HVP

If that grey wire just plugs into a receptacle, maybe you could just use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTQJ8S5

and power it with a 120 watt power supply adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B07FQCF8WF

I've done a couple installs of under cabinet LED strip lighting and I've found these LEDs to be very nice for the price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R5NUUAK/. I used a 40W magnetic transformer like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KWVFXC/. If using a dimmer switch, you need to use one compatible with magnetic transformers, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006UUI06. Electronic transformers are another cheaper option, but you'd want to look into the pros/cons.

Wow, you just solved it and I am an idiot. I ordered 2 Power Supplies, one was supposed to be this 12V 360W PSU for the RAMPS/etc. and the other is this 24V 500W PSU exclusively for the Heated Bed.

I could have sworn I double checked but I just looked and it seems I have 2 24V PSUs. Was looking for the model number on the one connected to the RAMPS and it says s-360-24 on the side sigh.

Well that explains why it fried it. Time to return that for the correct PSU.

I've found this 120v AC to 12v DC converter on amazon, would something like this allow me to use the pin I've already installed into the machine?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah I should have included a screenshot of my calculation. Here's what I went off of, from led.linear1.org: https://imgur.com/a/O8o4Zo2

The power supply I bought is rated to 5A max, so I don't think it's the power supply. I bought this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEA8PQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

As for the resistor, the calculator said it only needed to dissipate 1/4W so that's what I went with. Or it might have been 1/2W but it definitely wasn't super high power. Is that not accurate?

I did self adhesive led strips mounted to 1/4" aluminum angle stock. I screwed the aluminum stock to the face frame under the cabinets and oriented it so the led strips were facing the wall and one side of the angle stock was facing towards the countertop.

I used a dimmable 12vdc power supply and put it on a standard 120vac dimmer switch. The aluminum acts as a heat sink and when you look down at the glossy counter top, you can't see the leds. Worked pretty well.

You should redesign this and remove that as you call it 'fancy switch' and get a proper home automation system. I use Vera a vera Lite

Then you can do so much more. For example I use this on my RGBW light strips.

As for the power yes as other have said you need to use the existing outlets to power a 12 volt power supply. I use these for that.

Now that you have the Zwave hub then you can start to automate many other lights in the house.

Check out r/homeautomation/ for more ideas

Sorry for formatting on mobile.

I ran about 150’ of these lights in my basement.. used them as cove lighting and under bar/shelf lighting. I found you can connect 2 of these reels of lights without noticeable dimming down the strip of lights. Online you can find pretty much any supply as long as it outputs at the correct voltage (get that info from your LED controller)

BINZET DC12V 2.5A 30 Watt LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRX360W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used this to power my main controller I think it’s actually for a fountain..I have no issues with brightness. Your controller isn’t going to let enough current run through the light strip to ever allow more than 2 reels of lights to be powered, even if you managed to find a higher amp power supply.. this is driven by losses over the line and LED power consumption, at 12v losses and consumption is high.. if you had lights that ran off 48v you get significantly longer runs of lights before dimming on the far end was noticeable. I digress.

If you have a lot your running together get yourself an amplifier. Jumper wires off the LED light strip go to the input, 12/24v is input into the amplifier, and an RGB output wires can then be ran back to the LED strip.

LED RGB Amplifier Controller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071F4D5SD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Next you’ll need an additional power supply to power
your amplifiers. I used a computer power supply.

SUPERNIGHT 12V 30A Switching... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LATMSGS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Jumper cables and power from power supply to amplifiers was run with 18 gauge wire.

Alternatively you can buy an additional local power supply to every amplifier if it’s easier than one central. I used one central so I could plug in my controller and power supply into one outlet on the wall, I then used typical NM 600v cable to control the outlet with a switch on the wall. Gives the feel of a professional light install for a fraction of the price.

Yeah, I'm using 12v2a, so I'll upgrade my power supply.

Would this be overkill?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GEA8PQA/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01GEA8PQA

Sure. You will need to purchase a power supply (this one is 12 volt) to drive this controller. So figure out if your strips are either 12 or 24 volt. If they happen to be 24 volt, this controller has a built in power supply for 24 volt LED strips only. Both can be added to the Philips Hue Bridge.

As for connections, I used these for RGB strips and these for power connections.

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So the panels are just pieces of finish quality ply, with different items attached.

Panel 1 has a counter bell from a kitchen supply store (the top comes off and I screw through the base to attach it. Just make sure that you place clapper of the bell so that gravity holds it down.)

Panel 2. The sparkly letters are duck tape. There's a scrub sponge and a piece of sandpaper..

Panel 3 is just general hardware, plus a retracing key ring that I get at Lowes. If you ask the key guy for miscuts, he'll probably have a box full to give you.

Panel 4: I bent a sprayed a piece of round stock, then punched a hole through a dowel, which I then cut into the sliders.

Panel 5. You can buy little spring clips, a D-ring and chain, hook them together and it clicks and rattles.

The LEDs were a real learning experience. LEDs run on DC, so you need an transformer to step the 120V AC from an outlet down to 12VDC. (I used this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034GUEY4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage) I mounted it in the end with the LEDs (you can tell how deep that area is, that's to give it all room to breathe) I used little pucks to keep it from being against the wood, because if you leave it plugged in for hours at a time, it does get hot. Power exits from that into the switches (which are just standard house units),in parallel then into the LEDs, which are wired in series.

LEDs will self-limit. That means (as far as I could teach myself) that if you string the right number together, they don't need resistors to regulate them, or they need very small resistors. I used http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php to calculate. (FWIW, I miscalculated at some point and exploded a string). Small loss.

LEDs run cool, so once I had them all in place, I just epoxied them into the end plate. and heat shrunk all of the wiring. Then I connected the switches and closed up the box.

I think. It's been more than a year since I did it. Of course, I should have written everything down and taken progress pictures, but alas....

(I mostly used the power of google on how to wire the LEDs, as far as power and mounting boards.)

I got this power supply. The 60 Watt UL-Listed one.
Does the UL-Listed mean that it's fine? It's branded as HitLights.

So I put in this ballast and have left the light switch on for a day now. However, there is no electricity coming through; the light doesn't light up and my multimeter doesn't show any voltage coming through. The lightbulb is good, I took it from another lamp.

Is this normal? Or, what else should I check?

FLS-PP LED Controller, Zigbee, Hue Compatible

Supernight RGBWW LED Strips

Power Supply, 60 watt 12v

They have a larger power supply available as well. You'll have to do the math on how many strips you want to run.

I have this exact setup with two strips (and no issues whatsoever)... Hue sees it just fine.

I'm assuming you're from the States. I'm based in the UK, had a look on the American amazon and found this. It should work.

LEDwholesalers 12 Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 30W, 3207 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_euNqzb3MM791H

Would it be up to code to use this? Have romex go in one side directly.

https://www.amazon.com/LEORX-LED-Transformer-Power-Supply/dp/B017R17YQC/ref=pd_sim_86_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B017R17YQC&pd_rd_r=F8GFJM8GJRHD6B68G413&pd_rd_w=7j4Qp&pd_rd_wg=OLP3P&psc=1&refRID=F8GFJM8GJRHD6B68G413

Here's a list of the parts for everyone:

LED Strip
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ALTHLLG/ref=oh_details_o01_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sound Sensor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOM93VK/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power Supply
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034GUEY4/ref=oh_details_o01_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

IRF 520
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HFD7N4/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arduino Starting Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051QHPJM/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEA8PQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy this.

"Used for any 12 volt application (motorcycle, car or suv auto modding)."

You need a 12 volt adapter. Find one for purchase.

Not really. I built a few of these for my closet. Got a led strip, 24v psu, and a couple magnetic switches for less than $50. Had enough to do the entire closet, couple drawers, and the underside of my kitchen cabinets. Those little LED strips are fucking handy.

you may have to plug both strips in to the controller with a splitter or by splicing as daisy chaining the strips end to end may cause the last LEDs on the chain to be noticeably dimmer than the first due to resistance.

Edit looking at it again I was assuming all white for the power supply rgb has the potential to exceed that limit. Try these I've had a lot of luck with them and they are well made.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WOIVRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yba1DbFJYRKVS

That's a 60w version, there's also a 150w version if you really want to go crazy, I've powered a kitchen with an obscene amount of built in lighting with one.

Also you may need a barel plug for the power supply if not hard wiring. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1WZENK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Jha1DbK5B56WM

Just read your question again.

There are no cameras I'm aware of that can accept a direct 120v input with no transformers. I doubt very much you will find one- no security installer wants to deal with 120v power (so there isn't much market for such a thing), and it would greatly increase the cost of the camera.

The closest I'm aware of is there used to be 120v powered camera enclosures that would internally supply 12-24vdc for an analog camera. Those however have gone the way of the dodo bird, because if you are in such extreme environments that you need a heated camera, there are now lots of PoE powered heated cameras available.

However, if you want to use installed cable only, that doesn't mean you're SOL.

Get a 120v hardwired power supply like this one. It's designed for LEDs but it should drive a 12v camera no problem. Put that in an external waterproof box and wire it up and you're good to go.

A couple different ways depending on how you want them ran.
If you have a 12v patio light transformer/timer you could just cut each bulb out and wire in a socket and then put in a led bulb after that cut off the plug and splice on a wire and run it to the 12v patio box.
If no patio box you would need a 120v ac to 12v DC converter where you would cut if the plug and splice it to the converter.
Also depending on what type of bulb is in there you may be able to find just the bulbs and change them.
Take a picture of the bulb and socket so I can see what type of base it is