Reddit mentions: The best mallets
We found 48 Reddit comments discussing the best mallets. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 28 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. TEKTON 30812 Double-Faced Soft Mallet, 35 mm
- Soft faces deliver a solid strike without damaging work surface
- Lightweight tubular steel handle shifts the weight balance toward head for extra power in each blow
- Extra soft, non-slip rubber handle grip for ultimate comfort and control
- Chrome plated finish resists corrosion and easily wipes clean
Features:
Specs:
Color | Original Version |
Height | 1.4 Inches |
Length | 11.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 0.000625 Pounds |
Width | 3.7 Inches |
2. Wood Is Good WD205 Mallet, 18-Ounce
- Quiet yet transmit maximum blow
- Made in USA
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.85 Inches |
Length | 2.75 Inches |
Weight | 1.125 Pounds |
Width | 10.7 Inches |
3. TEKTON 3179 35mm Double-Face Soft Mallet [Older Model]
- Two 35mm Diameter Replaceable Heads
- Black Rubber Head for a Cushioned Strike, High Impact Plastic Head For a Positive Strike
- Rugged Tubular Steel Handle
- Cushioned Non-Slip Rubber Handle Grip
- Quality Guarantee
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.1 Inches |
Length | 11.2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 1.05 Pounds |
Width | 3.5 Inches |
4. Estwing Rubber Mallet - 12 oz Double-Face Hammer with Soft/Hard Tips & Hickory Wood Handle - DFH12,Black
- TRIPLE WEDGE CONSTRUCTION – Securely fastens hammer head to
- MULTI-USE MALLET – Use for sheet metal forming, upholstery work, automotive work, assembling furniture, tile setting, laminate flooring installs, & more
- BUILT FOR THE PRO – framers, roofers, carpenters, contractors, tradesman & serious DIYers
- GENUINE HICKORY HANDLE – Designed to fit the grip of the user’s hand ensuring comfort & control
- MADE IN THE USA – Our American made tools are proudly crafted Rockford, IL
- Packaging May Vary.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Red & Yellow |
Height | 1.43 Inches |
Length | 12.33 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 |
Weight | 1.21 Pounds |
Width | 4.85 Inches |
5. Crown 4-1/2-inch Beechwood Mallet
- Exceptional quality tool from Crown Hand Tools Ltd, Sheffield, England
- Weight: 20 oz
- Head Diameter: 4-1/2"
- Manufactured from Finest Kiln Dried Beech
- Application: Designed to be quiet and yet transmit the maximum blow
Features:
Specs:
Color | Beechwood |
Height | 2.2 inches |
Length | 4.85 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 1.1 Pounds |
Width | 11.95 inches |
6. 8 oz Rubber Mallet with Fiberglass Handle
- Nickel clamp on lyre with rubber clamps
- Works with all flip folders
Features:
7. Mallet 2 Green / Green Spring
- Compatible with most clipless cycling shoes (adaptor required for 3 hole cleats)
- 4-sided entry to promote superior mud shedding
- Includes one pair of pedals, and a set of Crankbrothers standard release cleats
- Built for Downhill riding but suitable for most disciplines
- Wide platform for support on rough terrain
Features:
Specs:
Color | Green |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Standard |
Weight | 1.1 Pounds |
Width | 8 Inches |
8. Steel Grip Mallet 8 Oz Hardwood
- "STEELGRIP" RUBBER MALLET
- 8 Oz.
- Hardwood handle
- Replaces Life And Home Catalog ID: 40451655
Features:
Specs:
Color | No Color |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 0.65 Pounds |
Width | 3.2 Inches |
9. Grizzly Industrial H7562-4-1/2" Wooden Mallet
Hardwood end grain striking surfacePackage dimensions: 5.43" x 13.77" x 2.99"Approximate weight: 1.4 lbs
Specs:
Height | 2.99 Inches |
Length | 5.43 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Width | 13.77 Inches |
10. Narex 460 gram 16 oz Beech Wood Carving Mallet
- Made by a small tool manufacturer in the Czech Republic
- Head Size: 4 1/4" x 3" x 2 1/4" thick. Head has 5 degree angle to ensure a square strike each time
- Head and handle material unfinished European Beech. Head has chamfered edges to prevent splintering.
- Overall Length: 11" (275 mm)
- Total Weight: 16 oz (460g)
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 6.3 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 13.5 Inches |
11. Wooden Handle Nylon Hammer Leathercraft Carving Hammer Sew Leather Cowhide Tool Kit
- Suitable for the professions and amateurs
- New pragmatic hammer for leathercraft carving
- Striking the leathercraft tool to print kinds of figures on the leathercraft
- Nylon hammer is solid enough to print the printing on the leathercraft
- Lightweight and confortable wooden handle makes you do the leather carving easily
Features:
Specs:
Color | I-head |
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 5.6 Inches |
Weight | 0.76 Pounds |
Width | 3.8 Inches |
12. ROBERT LARSON 170-1012 Wood Is Good 12 oz. Mallet
Made of good quality productsSelect propellants that deliver consistent accuracy and performanceProduct is manufactured in United States
Specs:
Height | 2.75 Inches |
Length | 2.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 0.9 Pounds |
Width | 10.75 Inches |
13. Soft Mallet, Lightweight DIY Tools Double- Faced Mallet with Soft Rubber Hard Plastic and Non Slip Plastic Perfect Hammer for Firearms Leather Wood Crafts Jewelry Heads as Gift (Head Diameter 30mm)
EXTENSIVE USE-You will see how ours is the best rubber mallet and plastic mallet all wrapped in one. Sturdy and dependable, non-slip rubber handle provides solid grip for extra control, zero vibration and no bounce. Great for tough jobs and long lasting and protects your firearms, wood, plastic, rub...
Specs:
Color | Head Diameter 30mm |
14. Narex Round Turned 600 gram 21 oz Beech Wood Carving Mallet 825702
Mallet made by a highly respected tool manufacturer in the Czech RepublicHead measures 3 3/4" in diameterWood is finished European Beech.Overall Length: 12" (295 mm)Total Weight: 21 oz (600 g)
Specs:
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 6.3 Inches |
Weight | 1.44 Pounds |
Width | 13.5 Inches |
15. Garland 11000 Rawhide Mallet, Size-0
Face diameter 1-inchHead length 2-inchesMade in USA
Specs:
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 11.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.19 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
16. Wooden Mallet 4 ½” Bora 540049, The Well-Balanced Beechwood Woodworking Mallet That’s Ideal for Solid, Damage-Free Striking
Well balanced for precision and comfort , this wood mallet is carefully crafted to feel good in your hand while swinging and striking, you’ll know its quality workmanship the second you pick it upLarge hardwood striking face, made of hard, kiln-dried European Beechwood, the 4 ½” head (with 2”...
Specs:
Height | 5.5 Inches |
Length | 12.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.95 Pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
17. TEKTON 3180 40mm Double-Face Soft Mallet [Older Model]
Two 40mm Diameter Replaceable HeadsBlack Rubber Head for a Cushioned Strike, High Impact Plastic Head For a Positive StrikeRugged Tubular Steel HandleCushioned Non-Slip Rubber Handle GripQuality Guarantee
Specs:
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 11.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 1.45 Pounds |
Width | 3.5 Inches |
18. Coleman Rubber Mallet with Tent Peg Remover
- Made of the highest quality materials
- Camping Knives & Tools Shovels
- Another quality Coleman product
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.06 Inches |
Length | 14 Inches |
Release date | January 2012 |
Weight | 0.33 Pounds |
Width | 6.5 Inches |
19. Sorbothane Soft-Blow Mallet for Furniture Construction and Woodworking (Large - 20oz)
SOFTER THAN MOST: We made this mallet's head from pure Sorbothane, a soft, synthetic-viscoelastic urethane polymer that has been used in products like shock absorbers. Unlike other rubber mallets on the market, which can leave dents, scratches, or dings if struck against a surface too hard, our soft...
Specs:
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 13 Inches |
Size | Large - 20oz |
Weight | 1.25 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
20. JEWELERS RAWHIDE MALLET 6 oz. HAMMER # 2 GARLAND 1-1/2" x 3" LEATHER CRAFT TOOLS (E8)
Garland Rawhide Mallet 1-1/2" FACE DIAMETERGarland PN: 11002Made in USA by GARLANDAPPLICATIONS: Jewelry - Hobby - Metal Smith - Leather-work - Crafts
Specs:
Color | Wood Color |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.375 Pounds |
🎓 Reddit experts on mallets
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where mallets are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
I just posted another comment so you'd see a notification.
Here's the list! Hope it's not too long. All the tools listed are the ones I bought. If I have other suggestions, I've listed them as well. I've also listed details on the functions of the tools, and why they're superior to some other alternatives. If you look for the same amount of tools in one of those "kits," they would set you back roughly 200-400, depending on where you bought it from. The tools in these kits are usually quite inferiorly made as well. This list is a result of about a week long search and perusal. Tandy is a well known and easily accessible aggregation of tools, but they're overpriced for what they do and their quality is mediocre at best.
*Some of the eBay listings might have ended, but I'm sure you'll be able to find identical tools for the equivalent price or even cheaper.
For me the tools came out to a grand total of roughly $115. You can give or take $20 if you want to improvise your own tools, or switch them out. I'd say this setup works just fine for mid to smaller projects like what I made, or wallets, etc.
As for the leather, Springfield Leather sells some quality leather by the square foot, which is nice for first timers, as most tanneries only sell by the side, like what I had, which usually average around 21-28 square feet. Pretty big investment. Maverick Leather Company sells quality leathers as well as Horween "Seconds", like what I got for a very nice discount. These seconds are full sides with minor defects in the leather, but unless you're making huge bags it's easy to cut around the brand marks/scars etc, and your leather will look spotless. I got a full side of Horween Essex for roughly $130, and I'm guessing if I bought the same straight for Horween it would have run me in the ballpark of $300 or so. Since my laptop case only used about 7-8% of my leather, I used about $10 worth of leather. Quite a bargain if you ask me. If you're looking to do many projects like I am, I'd advise you to invest in a nice Horween side. Can't beat it for value and price.
All told, the laptop case itself cost about $11-12 worth of materials** (leather, fabric, thread, glue) and took the better part of 2 days to complete. Granted, much of that time was spent just sitting and thinking as most of it was improvisation, as you can see by my horrible sketch.
As far as my "learning" went, it was literally just Google. Some youtube videos help, and I glanced through some forums, but overall, as I've often found in woodworking too, nothing beats hand-on experience.
Well, hope this helped you guys out and answered some questions. I know I definitely would have appreciated a specialized list like this when I was starting out.
Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.
Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:
I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.
As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.
Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).
If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.
The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.
I'm not a huge fan of hook knives as I prefer to carve seasoned hardwoods rather than green, so I prefer gouges instead. I love my set of Flexcut Deluxe Palm Set for detail work, well worth the investment for me with excellent steel, quality, and fit/finish. The only problem is the relative small size, making large amounts of stock removal a chore even with a mallet. I plan to invest in a set of Flexcut's mallet tools next and use larger antique carving gouges for that task. As for a mallet, I love my Wood is Good mallet for gouges, and a chisel hammer for bench chisels. The carving mallet allows you to put different angles and power behind your blows for carving, while the chisel hammer lets you connect very squarely.
For me at least, a spokeshave is a must for contouring the outer bowl and handle. I prefer a good antique Stanley 53 as you can adjust the mouth to quickly dial in depth of cut. They are affordable on the secondhand market and depending on where you live can be found at flea markets and antique shops. Veritas also makes multiple models that i have heard great things about and plan to purchase one of those in the future as well.
Rather than an axe, I prefer a small draw knife for roughing work. I currently have the Flexcut 5" which isn't bad if you can get it on sale, but it is a bit smaller than I would like. Currently on the lookout for a larger antique one at a good price. If I am going to use an axe, I like a sharp hewing hatchet, as it is easier to get the bevel to bite accurately without gouging too deeply.
A good carving knife is beneficial, but I find myself using my bench chisels for that work more often. You don't need to go too crazy here as they are very simple tools, and you can get sets on Amazon for cheap. I like my VonHaus set, and have heard good things about Narex as well. I have a set of Flexcut carving knives but honestly find the pelican knives useless and would much rather have something else, but do use the carving knife and detail knife on occasion. Wish this set would have come with any other 2 knives.
Whatever tools you decide on, invest equally in your sharpening system. The best tools on the planet aren't worth anything if they dull and you can't bring them back to a pristine edge, especially in seasoned hardwoods. Tools that allow you to control depth of cut are going to give you a more precise and evenly contoured look, whereas tools without depth control will give you a more rustic and uneven look. Each has their place and are fun to explore and mix. I prefer symmetrical, even shapes normally but love to switch it up and try new techniques. If you don't have the cash to make big purchases, start scouring local flea markets and antique shops. Normally there is at least one booth at flea markets specializing in cheap old tools which you will need to learn to restore. There is usually at least one antique shop as well that specializes in old tools (some woodworking specifically) that you want to search for. Be careful though, acquiring and restoring antique tools can end up being just as fun as using them. If you have any questions, just let me know!
I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.
I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!
I assume you have not used hand tools much.
The first thing I would learn how to do and invest in is how to get your tools sharp, like really sharp. I mean shiny flat back and edge razor sharp. Without really sharp tools - hand joinery is not fun and much harder than it needs to be.
There is the scary sharp method, I am sure u/Peniceiling's suggestion works great, I use Shapton Stones, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are woodworkers.
But you will need to research and invest time in some way of sharpening and get good at it.
A simple Honing Guide can make things easier when you start.
This Small Rip Dozuki B. was recommended by the instructor I had for a hand joinery class last year as the best bang for the buck they knew of - I found it works great.
I'd get a 1/2in Chisel. When you get the chisel, it will not be sharp. You will have to spend time tuning it up.
A Mallet to hit the chisel.
I personally prefer a round marking gauge. This has to be sharpened just like your chisel so it cuts the wood fibers evenly and cleanly.
Small Sliding Bevel gauge to mark your dovetails.
A good quality double square is invaluable. Best $ value I have found for one of these is here.
A 2.0mm lead holder with sharpener is very helpful. Lets you mark into areas a regular pencil will not fit.
That would be everything I can think of to do all half blind and through dovetails, finger-joints etc.
A drill(press) and a couple more chisels sizes will get you mortise and tenons with standard 4/4 6/4 and 8/4 stock.
Good Luck.
Man I just finished this post and it's kind of long, oh well, that's what I get for staying up all night getting hopped up on diet soda like a rebel.
Start with buying a stripped lower, don't get hung up on brand names, there are only a handful of lower manufactures out there (I believe less than 10, maybe less than 5). Most companies have someone else make their lowers and stick their roll mark (the design on the side of the lower) on it then sell it at a 50% markup. This is the only part of the entire firearm that can not be shipped to your doorstep unless you have an FFL.
Next, since you don't want anything flashy, I would suggest the Palmetto State Armory Classic Lower Build Kit and bam, your lower is all done.
For your upper, I think I would stick to more reputable brands since there seem to be more manufacturers due to the lack of the involvement of headaches with the ATF, grab one with a lot of high reviews and then buy a PSA AR15 Upper Build Kit. For a barrel just go with whatever suits your taste, my preference is definitely 16" with a mid length gas system, it's a dream to shoot. I would recommend getting one with a front sight post already pinned on, if you decide you don't want it (like if you would want to install a free float hand guard), it's very easily replaced but if you get one without and decide you want it later it's probably the most involved/complicated thing you can even do with an ar-15. If you get a barrel with a pinned on front sight/gas block then grab the appropriate length hand guard for $20-$40 and then you need a muzzle device and a crush washer which should be about $8-$10. Buy some charging handle, everyone I know owns a Bravo Company gunfighter charging handle and loves it but I have heard a lot of good things about the Ranier Raptor charging handle as well.
Now, for a bolt carrier group, you do not want to assemble this at your kitchen table, at least not the carrier. The gas key staking is probably the most important part of the entire firearm in terms of reliability, I can't stress this enough, buy your bolt carrier from a reputable company, if you can get a Bravo Company bolt carrier group DO IT and don't look back. Once you get it, don't ever remove the gas key either, I wish I could find the video but I can't, it was of some youtube clowns running around with ar-15's and one of their rifles kept malfunctioning, he same something dumb like "I even removed the gas key and cleaned it out, I don't understand why it isn't cycling" later in the video he took out his bolt carrier and it was rattling like a paint can.
Also, factor tools in to your budget, probably around $50-100 depending on what you already have and how easily you want your build to go. The only thing you absolutely will need is an armorers wrench, everything else can be cheesed or is more for convenience. A torque wrench really should be used for the castle and barrel nuts, a center punch for staking the castle nut is actually cheaper than a tube of loctite, a small table clamp vice like this one should be sufficient if you don't have one already and a set of vice blocks will make your life easier when you torque stuff down, a set of roll pin punches and a non-marring hammer will keep everything nice and pretty but are not required if you take your time and go slow.
I work with leather as a hobby and I'd be happy to tell you about the tools I use. Others may have different opinions of course.
Where should I buy my leather?
I get all my leather from Tandy Leather Factory. Link The prices are great, and they have a huge selection of quality, thickness, and sizes. Of course there may not be one near you.
If you have to buy from a craft store then you're going to be paying a lot, but that may be your only option. You should lookup "Saddle Supply" for your area too. The tools and materials are all the same.
What tools are a must-have?
Leather
Here is a project I'm currently working on that uses a mix of all the tools above. http://imgur.com/xEvP3
Also, there are many many other tools you can add, but I think these are the basic must haves.
Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.
If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.
Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.
> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
> Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
> Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
> Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
> A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
> Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.
Personal preference here, but between clipless and platform, I would go platform. But I think clipless might be the more popular option.
But if I could, I'd actually split the pedal difference. On my bike, I've always used mallet pedals, so I can either clipless or ordinary shoes. For the majority of my biking time, I've just used them as ordinary platforms, but about a quarter of the time as clipless. I enjoy the feel of platforms more, even though I know they're not as mechanically efficient as clipless would be. But I enjoy being able to use my shoes as either clipless or standard shoes to go about my day.
But I commute daily with more poundage of gear than your tour, so my preferences might not be best for you. Whatever you decide, I hope you have a safe and happy trip!
I wouldn't recommend buying that list.
Replace the marking gauge with the basic Veritas model ($18->32). Or skip that entirely and make a marking gauge yourself.
Replace that Japanese hammer with this mallet. This has enough range to work for everything from carving to bench work/joinery, and it won't ruin western chisels like that japanese one.
If you're dead set on getting 4 chisels for $50 or less, head over here and get these Narex chisels. They are different from the ones on amazon and generally considered to be superior. If you can stretch a little bit more, buy the chisels I wish I bought when I was first starting out.
That vise is junk, but you need a way to hold your work. You can do a lot with a few clamps (and, unlike a disposable vise, they will be useful forever). Or build a simple viseless workbench early on. Or buy a vise screw and make a vise out of wood.
I'm not a japanese saw expert, but you could cut that list down to one Ryoba and add incrementally later.
Those "bench cookies" are fine to support work during finishing. I have some deployed right now...but they are a small optimization that you don't need to spend money on just yet.
If you're going to buy a cheap combination square, go to the hardware store and test it out before you buy to make sure it reliably locks down square. If you want something that you can order online and trust, it's going to cost a lot more (Starrett, etc). You really need a square that extends to 12" to cover your bases, but if you can swing it, get a 6" too. It's the one you'll be using 80% of the time.
Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.
2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.
$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.
$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.
$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.
$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.
$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.
$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.
$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.
$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.
$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.
$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.
$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.
$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.
$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.
Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.
I used something like this for the hammer - plastic end worked great. You can get something like this if you prefer metal.
These are the punches I used, they're great. Definitely recommend something like these.
I recommend these because they are reliable tools and aren't too expensive (subjective, of course). Nice tools will make you want to do more stuff yourself, I guarantee it! You probably can save some dough using Home Depot Husky / Lowes Kobalt/craftsman, or Harbor Freight. I have cheap tools too, but for the tools I use often, I invest a little more.
Edit: what's up with the downvote? I'm too sensitive :)
Here's an example of something that will work great! http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002S0OIW6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450281491&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=carpenters+mallet&dpPl=1&dpID=31L1X5rkGsL&ref=plSrch
Issue with metal mallets / meat tenderizers is they can rip cheap Lewis bags pretty easily. Wood works just as effectively and is less abrasive (and, imho, looks better too)
He'll order a large wooden mallet online, paint the head grey with some spraypaint. wrap a thin ragged leather strap stolen from a baseball glove around the handle.... It would be perfect, so little effort, so much praise from fucking worthless nerds. At the very least it will impress the shit out of you, right "rodohilo"? Right? Because badly painting a red sled got your e-panties all wet.
AND I CAN TAKE 50 PICTURES OF MYSELF WHILE I COMPLETE A TWO-TASK PROJECT! OH GOD, WHICH INSTAGRAM FILTERS WILL I CHOOSE! THATS LIKE THE HARDEST PART OF MY PROJECT BRO!
Fuck, what am i doing! I dont want to give this asshole any ideas. All this sweet, sweet praise for my shitty adult arts and crafts could be mine all mine! Oh sweet, i could have a huge bunch of shut-ins and manchildren calling me all sorts of cool! DONT STEAL MY IDEAS! STAMPED IT! DOUBLE-STAMPED IT!
I bought one of these a while ago from an Amazon vendor. It's heavy as fuck, but does the job.
EDIT: Don't know if you need other tools, but this seems like a pretty good deal too, since it also includes vise blocks and a front sight tool for not much more.
EDIT #2: You'll also want a roll pin punch set if you don't already have one. A roll pin starter set and a rubber/plastic mallet are nice to have but not absolutely needed.
Looks good, sir. I did the same thing with a google doc for my 300BLK build.
I really like those sights, I have the exact same ones with the HK style front on my Windham SRC.
If you don't already have a hammer, you'll want to get a non-metal one to use with the punches. I got this one, good price and works well.
This mallet works pretty well for getting pieces to fit together: TEKTON 30812 Double-Faced Soft Mallet, 35 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWVAUUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQ7hDb17C17DE
Also, I only use glue a few times per insert, when a joint feels particularly loose. Most brands fit together nicely and feel quite sturdy when they’re done. I second the recommendation for gorilla wood glue on this front.
Thanks for the interest. I used 2-3oz economy leather from Tandy Leather. Here's the list of tools I used:
Finished with:
Hope this helps
The first set is just gouges a chisel and a skew so unless you are planning on doing purely relief carving then I would agree with /u/brazosrr. The flexcut set has all the knives you will need for a very long time. For the Hammer you do not want a ball peen hammer for carving what you want is a wooden mallet like this How every you do not need that until you get bigger tools so I would not suggest it.
It comes down to how much you want to spend. If I were to rebuy by tools I would get just flexcut and swiss made. I have have never had a problem with them and they hold there edge for a long time.
If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.
I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.
Some other things you'll want to have handy:
Vice Block for Lower
Vice Block for Upper
Roll pin starter kit
Rubber Mallet
Torque Wrench
These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.
Best of luck!
EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!
It's not that much stuff - Here's the cheapest things on Amazon. For sure a lot better deals if you just go into Harbor Freight though.
Torch - $17
Mallet - $9
Jeweler Saw - $14
Tiny Files - $10 or A rotary tool - $15
​
A regular file - $8 (optional)
​
If you want to process the silver yourself you need a
Crucible - $15
That torch again
Tongs - $9
Welding Gloves - $9
Jewelry Rolling Mill - $169
My little brother got me this maul for Christmas and I love it.
https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Turned-Carving-Mallet-825702/dp/B018JOUYG8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=narex+mallet&qid=1554390589&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Here's a Garland https://www.amazon.com/Garland-11000-Rawhide-Mallet-Size-0/dp/B00DJPM50Q/ I don't know if you're married to the T&C brand or not but this price seems good, similar handle
First, I would not recommend using those rubber caps - they'll probably leave black marks on whatever you're hitting.
I would recommend getting a specific non-marring hammer rather that putting a rubber cup over a regular hammer.
I really like this hammer:
TEKTON 30812 Double-Faced Soft Mallet, 35 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWVAUUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hmYACbJB984TN
Also, a few layers of electrical tape on a regular hammer works too, in a pinch.
I measured/marked the holes using a combination square. Then I drilled 5/8 holes in opposite corners cut area. Then I used a cheap ($20) electric jig saw to cut out the area as best as possible. I would follow the lines on one side, then flip it over and cut it again. The jig saw blade bends so it cuts on an angle. Finally, I used a chisel to remove excess material and clean up the holes and straighten them out.
Combination Square
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005XUHIBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1" Chisel (or you can get a set of three for a little more)
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-M444-1-Inch-MARPLES-Chisel/dp/B0000CBJH8/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1493124918&sr=8-20&keywords=irwin+chisel+marples
Mallet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020JNDI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Jig Saw
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDEJS300C-Jig-4-5-Amp/dp/B00OJ72L84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493125013&sr=8-1&keywords=4.5+amp+jigsaw
Hi I'm searching for a hammer/mallet type instrument of destruction...that isn't all that destructive. I saw these Japanese chisel hammers people were apparently also using on planes and some dual sided hammers with a soft and a harder side which made me wonder if there was one that would work on both wood and metal without damaging either one. Specifically I hope to use it to adjust a wooden plane requiring me to hit both metal and wood. I'm trying not to spend a lot of money to start out with so I want to avoid things that go into the realm of luxury tools.
cheaper dual sided hammer without replaceable ends
dual sided hammer with replaceable ends and higher price
japanese steel hammer (flat/domed ends)
These three hammers also accomplish the same tasks. ...generally speaking.
Don't pick the wrong one.
Wood Hockey stick price new - $35.00 (I didn't use any of these)
Wood Hockey stick price used - $5.00 (I used 2 of these)
Hockey stick price used (donated from friends) - $0.00 (I used 2 of these)
Mallet Price - $35
Homemade mallet VALUE - priceless
Oh, also my mallet. It does it's job for tent stakes and 4 inch nails. However, it does not do its job for hammering 2' rebar a foot into the ground.
The AMAZING guy at Bird Camp across the street lent us his steel mallet, because "you were getting more rebound off of that thing than it was being driven into the ground, and I was embarrassed for you." :C
Maybe something like this?
Are you hammering on singe coils at a time or several? Based on the size of your "paddle", it looks like maybe you're hammering a large area at a time. Of course, I can't really tell how big the paddle is compared to the mallets your using (or a banana, even), so that might just be an optical illusion of sorts.
Yep Here it is on Amazon and you can see five different people talking about how they used it on their AR and it worked great.
On other things, maybe....NOT on this pin. This pin is the granddaddy of shit pins
Stop using rubber or plastic mallets. This is what you should have if you want to hit something and not leave a mark:
http://www.amazon.com/JEWELERS-RAWHIDE-MALLET-GARLAND-LEATHER/dp/B00WGZRQVS
A good set of tampico brushes and this cassette lock ring tool:
http://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/tools/products/dual-sided-sl
This Mallet because i need something softer than a hammer sometimes.
Junkyard dogs