Reddit mentions: The best mallets

We found 48 Reddit comments discussing the best mallets. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 28 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

2. Wood Is Good WD205 Mallet, 18-Ounce

    Features:
  • Quiet yet transmit maximum blow
  • Made in USA
Wood Is Good WD205 Mallet, 18-Ounce
Specs:
Height2.85 Inches
Length2.75 Inches
Weight1.125 Pounds
Width10.7 Inches
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8. Steel Grip Mallet 8 Oz Hardwood

    Features:
  • "STEELGRIP" RUBBER MALLET
  • 8 Oz.
  • Hardwood handle
  • Replaces Life And Home Catalog ID: 40451655
Steel Grip Mallet 8 Oz Hardwood
Specs:
ColorNo Color
Height2 Inches
Length12 Inches
Number of items1
Size1 Pack
Weight0.65 Pounds
Width3.2 Inches
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15. Garland 11000 Rawhide Mallet, Size-0

Face diameter 1-inchHead length 2-inchesMade in USA
Garland 11000 Rawhide Mallet, Size-0
Specs:
Height2 Inches
Length11.25 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.19 Pounds
Width4 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on mallets

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where mallets are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Mallets:

u/give_me_candy · 14 pointsr/DIY

I just posted another comment so you'd see a notification.


Here's the list! Hope it's not too long. All the tools listed are the ones I bought. If I have other suggestions, I've listed them as well. I've also listed details on the functions of the tools, and why they're superior to some other alternatives. If you look for the same amount of tools in one of those "kits," they would set you back roughly 200-400, depending on where you bought it from. The tools in these kits are usually quite inferiorly made as well. This list is a result of about a week long search and perusal. Tandy is a well known and easily accessible aggregation of tools, but they're overpriced for what they do and their quality is mediocre at best.

  • Stitching Chisel Set Amazon - $19 - Used for even stitching holes. An alternative to this tool would be something called an overstitch wheel, but from what I've read, the consensus seems to be that pricking irons are better and more reliable for straight lines. Also, overstitch wheels don't pierce the leather all the way, and only mark the holes, meaning that you have to pierce each hole individually with an awl after you're done. Double the work.

  • Stitching Groover & Edge Trimmer Amazon - $22 - This tool combines three tools into one. The edge groover, edge trimmer, and fold liner. It's not amazing quality admittedly, but it gets the job done well, and for the price I really can't complain. The edge groover cuts out a thin channel which sets the thread in deeper in the leather. Edge trimmer smooths the sharp corners, and the fold liner makes a line if you want to fold the leather somewhere.

  • Cutting Mat Amazon - $10 - I'd say absolutely necessary for anything leather related. This one is really cheap, works great. I have the 18x12 inch model, and the price is for that one as well.

  • Hole Punch Set Amazon - $9 - I'd say this one is more on the optional side. Mostly needed if you're interested in putting in hardware like rivets or snaps. Also good however for oblong rounded holes, like I showed in my project.

  • Mallet Amazon - $8 - Needed for all sorts of things. A normal metal hammer won't work because it won't absorb any force at all and all energy will be transferred to the leather, potentially damaging it. A rubber mallet allows for a softer hit.


  • Diamond Stitching Awl Ebay - $9 - While technically not necessary if you're using a stitching chisel, if the leather you're working with is extremely thick, it might help to have it. You should get one anyway though. You'll inevitable end up using it. Also, make sure to get a "Diamond" pointed one. Normal awls with round points just poke a hole in that doesn't close back up. Diamond points are wide and thin, and this allows the leather to close back up on the thread after it has been sewed up. C.S. Osborne is also American made.

  • Skiving Knife Ebay - $9 - Needed for thinning leather when folding, or simply trimming thick leather. There are several different styles, and they all definitely require a bit of finesse to be used properly, but are immensely rewarding once learned. Also a C.S. Osborne.

  • Bone Folder Ebay - $7 - One of the tools you can improvise for. It's needed to crease corners when folding to flatten them out. Also can be used to burnish. The cocobolo burnisher that I made ended up working just as well as this for folding as well. Any smooth, rounded/flat long object will work well for this. This one is also a C.S. Osborne.

  • Harness Needles Ebay - $7 - Size 2 is what I got, and it fits with 0.8 thread, also what I used. These needles are handy because the tips are somewhat rounded, which means no pricked fingers. Comes in a pack of 25, and the first two that I pulled out are still going strong, so they're quite sturdy.

  • Ritza "Tiger" Thread Ebay - $7 for 25m - Obviously endless varietes of alternatives here. However, in my research it seemed to be the consensus that this was the superior thread. It comes already waxed, and it's extremely durable. The 0.8mm size fits the size 2 needle, and both are great for small projects.

  • Barge Cement Ebay - $4 or $23 - Barge cement is a well known glue for leatherworkers, and works well. It's used to hold edges together to make sewing easier, as well as holding folds down. The thing is, they released a new formula, (the $4 one) that is "eco-friendly" and is missing some key chemicals. This is the one I got. It also kinda sucks at holding leather together. The original formula, (the $23 one), comes in a quart size at the smallest, but from what I heard this one is rock solid and the origin of their reputation. If you're planning on doing many projects I'd just say to invest in the quart.

  • Stitching Pony This is what it looks like - I didn't put a link to a product for this one because all the ones I have seen are ridiculously overpriced. I made my own out of some more scrap hardwood I had laying around, (you can barely see the tip of it in the sewing picture here and it works flawlessly. It's used to hold the leather together so you can saddle stitch it, which requires both hands. Besides the wood, it cost me about $3 in hardware to make my own. You can easily whip one up with some 2x4s and a long bolt, knob, and some screws, for a grand total of probably $5 from home depot. You may need a table or miter saw, or equivalent.

    *Some of the eBay listings might have ended, but I'm sure you'll be able to find identical tools for the equivalent price or even cheaper.

    For me the tools came out to a grand total of roughly
    $115. You can give or take $20 if you want to improvise your own tools, or switch them out. I'd say this setup works just fine for mid to smaller projects like what I made, or wallets, etc.

    As for the leather, Springfield Leather sells some quality leather by the square foot, which is nice for first timers, as most tanneries only sell by the side, like what I had, which usually average around 21-28 square feet. Pretty big investment. Maverick Leather Company sells quality leathers as well as Horween "Seconds", like what I got for a very nice discount. These seconds are full sides with minor defects in the leather, but unless you're making huge bags it's easy to cut around the brand marks/scars etc, and your leather will look spotless. I got a full side of Horween Essex for roughly
    $130, and I'm guessing if I bought the same straight for Horween it would have run me in the ballpark of $300 or so. Since my laptop case only used about 7-8% of my leather, I used about $10 worth of leather. Quite a bargain if you ask me. If you're looking to do many projects like I am, I'd advise you to invest in a nice Horween side. Can't beat it for value and price.

    All told, the laptop case itself cost about
    $11-12 worth of materials** (leather, fabric, thread, glue) and took the better part of 2 days to complete. Granted, much of that time was spent just sitting and thinking as most of it was improvisation, as you can see by my horrible sketch.

    As far as my "learning" went, it was literally just Google. Some youtube videos help, and I glanced through some forums, but overall, as I've often found in woodworking too, nothing beats hand-on experience.

    Well, hope this helped you guys out and answered some questions. I know I definitely would have appreciated a specialized list like this when I was starting out.
u/SoftwareMaven · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.

Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:

  • A saw. A $30 Japanese saw with crosscut blade on one side and rip cut on the other is a great way to start if you aren't already an experienced sawyer. If you want to buy local, don't buy the crappy ones from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can get a good one from Woodcraft.
  • Chisels. Even the $10 six pack of chisels from Harbor Freight will work great. You have to sharpen a little more often, but it's much easier to get a keen edge.
  • A pounder. This can be a rubber mallet, a nylon mallet, or a stick. My first project was making a wooden mallet. I used a rubber mallet I already owned while making it.
  • A smoother. The best option is a bench plane (a used #4 Stanley, Record, or other pre-WWII plane is ideal; you can get fully restored planes on eBay for $75-90; you can buy a new Wood River at Woodcraft for under $150; or you can restore one (only do this if that process interests you). Stay away from new planes under $100). A secondary option is sandpaper. You will never match a plane's finish with sandpaper (literally glass-like), and some tasks, like stock removal, will be much more difficult or even impossible, but it is pretty cheap to get started.
  • A sharpener. On the cheap, you can use the "Scary Sharp" system using sandpaper and some thick glass to get started (I use a glass shelf I bought at Home Depot when I want to sharpen with sandpaper). For more money up front but less over time, you can use whetstones (water or oil) or diamond plates (I have a cheap $3 eBay-special 150 and 400 grit diamond plates to flatten my water stones and for major material removal, and I have two two-sided waterstones with 400/1000 and 4000/8000 grit for most sharpening). A $15 honing guide can make things much easier if you have coordination like me, but you probably want to spend a few minutes tweaking it to get best results.
  • Some marking/measuring tools. A marking gauge, a combination square (you will want to check and, if necessary, adjust it), a marking knife (a small pocket knife or utility knife works), and, maybe, a small tape measure. The tape measure gets used the least; most measurements are relative measurements made using the marking gauge.

    I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.

    As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.

    Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).

    If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.

    The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.
u/Ddosvulcan · 5 pointsr/Spooncarving

I'm not a huge fan of hook knives as I prefer to carve seasoned hardwoods rather than green, so I prefer gouges instead. I love my set of Flexcut Deluxe Palm Set for detail work, well worth the investment for me with excellent steel, quality, and fit/finish. The only problem is the relative small size, making large amounts of stock removal a chore even with a mallet. I plan to invest in a set of Flexcut's mallet tools next and use larger antique carving gouges for that task. As for a mallet, I love my Wood is Good mallet for gouges, and a chisel hammer for bench chisels. The carving mallet allows you to put different angles and power behind your blows for carving, while the chisel hammer lets you connect very squarely.

For me at least, a spokeshave is a must for contouring the outer bowl and handle. I prefer a good antique Stanley 53 as you can adjust the mouth to quickly dial in depth of cut. They are affordable on the secondhand market and depending on where you live can be found at flea markets and antique shops. Veritas also makes multiple models that i have heard great things about and plan to purchase one of those in the future as well.

Rather than an axe, I prefer a small draw knife for roughing work. I currently have the Flexcut 5" which isn't bad if you can get it on sale, but it is a bit smaller than I would like. Currently on the lookout for a larger antique one at a good price. If I am going to use an axe, I like a sharp hewing hatchet, as it is easier to get the bevel to bite accurately without gouging too deeply.

A good carving knife is beneficial, but I find myself using my bench chisels for that work more often. You don't need to go too crazy here as they are very simple tools, and you can get sets on Amazon for cheap. I like my VonHaus set, and have heard good things about Narex as well. I have a set of Flexcut carving knives but honestly find the pelican knives useless and would much rather have something else, but do use the carving knife and detail knife on occasion. Wish this set would have come with any other 2 knives.

Whatever tools you decide on, invest equally in your sharpening system. The best tools on the planet aren't worth anything if they dull and you can't bring them back to a pristine edge, especially in seasoned hardwoods. Tools that allow you to control depth of cut are going to give you a more precise and evenly contoured look, whereas tools without depth control will give you a more rustic and uneven look. Each has their place and are fun to explore and mix. I prefer symmetrical, even shapes normally but love to switch it up and try new techniques. If you don't have the cash to make big purchases, start scouring local flea markets and antique shops. Normally there is at least one booth at flea markets specializing in cheap old tools which you will need to learn to restore. There is usually at least one antique shop as well that specializes in old tools (some woodworking specifically) that you want to search for. Be careful though, acquiring and restoring antique tools can end up being just as fun as using them. If you have any questions, just let me know!

u/nomoneypenny · 2 pointsr/guns

I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.

  • Torquing things:

    • An AR-15 armourer's wrench is a dedicated device for AR-15 assembly and will be needed to attach the barrel, buffer tube, and flash hider. I initially got a super cheap one that couldn't take the torque and the tool's teeth snapped off while stripping a few of my barrel nut's teeth. I now use a TAPCO-brand model and it's very well made.

    • A torque wrench ensures you are tightening the barrel, flash hider, and castle nut to the correct minimum amounts using an objective indicator of applied torque. The minimum values are in the 25-35 ft.-lb range, so get a wrench that can exceed this by a healthy margin.

    • You need a vise to hold your upper and lower receiver at the individual stages where you're attaching parts, especially anything that needs to be tightened to a specified torque level. C-clamps and speed clamps are also helpful here.

    • A pair of plastic blocks clamp your upper receiver tightly to your vise. A block of magazine-shaped plastic goes into your magwell to hold your lower receiver in place on your vise. Get a combo pack of both.

    • Molybdenum-based anti-seize (greasing) compound is necessary when attaching your barrel to your receiver. It makes things easier when torquing the barrel nut and prevents the barrel from chemically bonding to the receiver. I made the mistake of attaching the barrel without it, had great difficulty tightening the nut, found that I couldn't align the gas tube properly, and then couldn't remove the nut again. Had to toss the thing into a freezer overnight to allow thermal contraction to separate the parts.

  • Pushing in roll pins:

    • You want a mallet with a non-marring head for driving in roll pins without damaging your weapon's finish.

    • A roll pin starter set will save you so much trouble getting the pins aligned for the first few hammer hits. Buy it.

    • For most of my roll pins, I used a roll punch set instead of a standard punch set to drive in the pins. Roll pins are hollow and a roll punch has a small indentation that fits inside the hollow area which makes driving the pins much easier.

    • A standard punch set came in handy to keep high-tension parts aligned while I punched in roll pins from the other side.

    • A bench block is useful in holding your parts in place while hammering in roll pins, but it's not needed if you have a friend to provide spare hands at some stages of assembly. I started off using it, but a roommate's hands plus a roll of tape (to rest the work piece on) worked just as well.

  • Specialty / miscellaneous

    • If you're installing a handguard that uses the standard delta ring, you will want snap ring pliers to manipulate the snap ring part of the delta ring assembly. I initially tried using improved tools. Save yourself the cursing and just get the pliers.

    • I saw a video guide to installing the front pivot pin using a clevis pin. It looks like a good technique to use and would have saved me a lot of trouble.

      I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!
u/GoofBoy · 1 pointr/woodworking

I assume you have not used hand tools much.

The first thing I would learn how to do and invest in is how to get your tools sharp, like really sharp. I mean shiny flat back and edge razor sharp. Without really sharp tools - hand joinery is not fun and much harder than it needs to be.

There is the scary sharp method, I am sure u/Peniceiling's suggestion works great, I use Shapton Stones, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are woodworkers.

But you will need to research and invest time in some way of sharpening and get good at it.

A simple Honing Guide can make things easier when you start.

This Small Rip Dozuki B. was recommended by the instructor I had for a hand joinery class last year as the best bang for the buck they knew of - I found it works great.

I'd get a 1/2in Chisel. When you get the chisel, it will not be sharp. You will have to spend time tuning it up.

A Mallet to hit the chisel.

I personally prefer a round marking gauge. This has to be sharpened just like your chisel so it cuts the wood fibers evenly and cleanly.

Small Sliding Bevel gauge to mark your dovetails.

A good quality double square is invaluable. Best $ value I have found for one of these is here.

A 2.0mm lead holder with sharpener is very helpful. Lets you mark into areas a regular pencil will not fit.

That would be everything I can think of to do all half blind and through dovetails, finger-joints etc.

A drill(press) and a couple more chisels sizes will get you mortise and tenons with standard 4/4 6/4 and 8/4 stock.

Good Luck.

u/Jwast · 2 pointsr/ar15

Man I just finished this post and it's kind of long, oh well, that's what I get for staying up all night getting hopped up on diet soda like a rebel.

Start with buying a stripped lower, don't get hung up on brand names, there are only a handful of lower manufactures out there (I believe less than 10, maybe less than 5). Most companies have someone else make their lowers and stick their roll mark (the design on the side of the lower) on it then sell it at a 50% markup. This is the only part of the entire firearm that can not be shipped to your doorstep unless you have an FFL.

Next, since you don't want anything flashy, I would suggest the Palmetto State Armory Classic Lower Build Kit and bam, your lower is all done.

For your upper, I think I would stick to more reputable brands since there seem to be more manufacturers due to the lack of the involvement of headaches with the ATF, grab one with a lot of high reviews and then buy a PSA AR15 Upper Build Kit. For a barrel just go with whatever suits your taste, my preference is definitely 16" with a mid length gas system, it's a dream to shoot. I would recommend getting one with a front sight post already pinned on, if you decide you don't want it (like if you would want to install a free float hand guard), it's very easily replaced but if you get one without and decide you want it later it's probably the most involved/complicated thing you can even do with an ar-15. If you get a barrel with a pinned on front sight/gas block then grab the appropriate length hand guard for $20-$40 and then you need a muzzle device and a crush washer which should be about $8-$10. Buy some charging handle, everyone I know owns a Bravo Company gunfighter charging handle and loves it but I have heard a lot of good things about the Ranier Raptor charging handle as well.

Now, for a bolt carrier group, you do not want to assemble this at your kitchen table, at least not the carrier. The gas key staking is probably the most important part of the entire firearm in terms of reliability, I can't stress this enough, buy your bolt carrier from a reputable company, if you can get a Bravo Company bolt carrier group DO IT and don't look back. Once you get it, don't ever remove the gas key either, I wish I could find the video but I can't, it was of some youtube clowns running around with ar-15's and one of their rifles kept malfunctioning, he same something dumb like "I even removed the gas key and cleaned it out, I don't understand why it isn't cycling" later in the video he took out his bolt carrier and it was rattling like a paint can.

Also, factor tools in to your budget, probably around $50-100 depending on what you already have and how easily you want your build to go. The only thing you absolutely will need is an armorers wrench, everything else can be cheesed or is more for convenience. A torque wrench really should be used for the castle and barrel nuts, a center punch for staking the castle nut is actually cheaper than a tube of loctite, a small table clamp vice like this one should be sufficient if you don't have one already and a set of vice blocks will make your life easier when you torque stuff down, a set of roll pin punches and a non-marring hammer will keep everything nice and pretty but are not required if you take your time and go slow.

u/asdem · 10 pointsr/steampunk

I work with leather as a hobby and I'd be happy to tell you about the tools I use. Others may have different opinions of course.

Where should I buy my leather?
I get all my leather from Tandy Leather Factory. Link The prices are great, and they have a huge selection of quality, thickness, and sizes. Of course there may not be one near you.

If you have to buy from a craft store then you're going to be paying a lot, but that may be your only option. You should lookup "Saddle Supply" for your area too. The tools and materials are all the same.

What tools are a must-have?

  • Rotary Leather Punch : This punches different size holes for different rivets, eyelets, or laces. The only downside to this rotary type, as opposed to this type is that you have to be within 2 inches of the edge of leather. But I find that is rarely a problem for me.
  • Utility Knife AKA Box Cutter : DO NOT USE SCISSORS TO CUT LEATHER. If you ignore everything else, this is the one thing you should remember. Using scissors will bend the edge of leather all to hell. A new blade on a utility knife like this will cut through leather like butter. I use two, a regular size one and a small compact one for tight turns.
  • 4 Prong Chisel : You'll use this to punch holes along the edge of the leather to sew it together. I use the 4 prong, but they also come in 1, 6, and 8.
  • Rubber/Wood Mallet : For hitting the chisel. You'll probably say, I have a hammer I'll just use that. Don't, it'll mushroom your chisel and be loud, and destroy whatever you have under the leather you're punching through. Get a mallet form Walmart.
  • Stitching Needles : For stitching leather together of course.
  • Wax Thread : For stitching leather together. If you opt to use the hole punch and leather cording to bind your leather together it's going to look like a Boy Scout made it at camp. Trust me, take the time to stitch your stuff nicely.
  • Rivets : These come in different colors, materials, types, and sizes.
  • Rivet Setter : for striking rivets of course.

    Leather
  • I use a 9oz leather for my goggles. It's thick and stiff (that's what she said) and is almost like balsa wood in hardness.
  • For cuffs I'll recommend an 8oz leather. It's thick enough to be stiff, but will bend to a nice curve. Here are the cuffs I make. For the Straps I use about a 4-5oz leather. It's thin enough to bend easy, but thick enough to be strong. Of course, if you end up making something like bracers that need some extra strength you can go to a 6-7oz leather instead.

    Here is a project I'm currently working on that uses a mix of all the tools above. http://imgur.com/xEvP3

    Also, there are many many other tools you can add, but I think these are the basic must haves.
u/ZedHunter666 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.

> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
>
Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
>
Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
>
Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
>
A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
>
Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

u/wiggee · 8 pointsr/bicycletouring

Personal preference here, but between clipless and platform, I would go platform. But I think clipless might be the more popular option.

But if I could, I'd actually split the pedal difference. On my bike, I've always used mallet pedals, so I can either clipless or ordinary shoes. For the majority of my biking time, I've just used them as ordinary platforms, but about a quarter of the time as clipless. I enjoy the feel of platforms more, even though I know they're not as mechanically efficient as clipless would be. But I enjoy being able to use my shoes as either clipless or standard shoes to go about my day.

But I commute daily with more poundage of gear than your tour, so my preferences might not be best for you. Whatever you decide, I hope you have a safe and happy trip!

u/abnormal_human · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I wouldn't recommend buying that list.

Replace the marking gauge with the basic Veritas model ($18->32). Or skip that entirely and make a marking gauge yourself.

Replace that Japanese hammer with this mallet. This has enough range to work for everything from carving to bench work/joinery, and it won't ruin western chisels like that japanese one.

If you're dead set on getting 4 chisels for $50 or less, head over here and get these Narex chisels. They are different from the ones on amazon and generally considered to be superior. If you can stretch a little bit more, buy the chisels I wish I bought when I was first starting out.

That vise is junk, but you need a way to hold your work. You can do a lot with a few clamps (and, unlike a disposable vise, they will be useful forever). Or build a simple viseless workbench early on. Or buy a vise screw and make a vise out of wood.

I'm not a japanese saw expert, but you could cut that list down to one Ryoba and add incrementally later.

Those "bench cookies" are fine to support work during finishing. I have some deployed right now...but they are a small optimization that you don't need to spend money on just yet.

If you're going to buy a cheap combination square, go to the hardware store and test it out before you buy to make sure it reliably locks down square. If you want something that you can order online and trust, it's going to cost a lot more (Starrett, etc). You really need a square that extends to 12" to cover your bases, but if you can swing it, get a 6" too. It's the one you'll be using 80% of the time.

u/CaIzone · 1 pointr/woodworking

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

u/V-chalk · 2 pointsr/Tools

I recommend these because they are reliable tools and aren't too expensive (subjective, of course). Nice tools will make you want to do more stuff yourself, I guarantee it! You probably can save some dough using Home Depot Husky / Lowes Kobalt/craftsman, or Harbor Freight. I have cheap tools too, but for the tools I use often, I invest a little more.

u/sadoian · 2 pointsr/cocktails

Here's an example of something that will work great! http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002S0OIW6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450281491&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=carpenters+mallet&dpPl=1&dpID=31L1X5rkGsL&ref=plSrch

Issue with metal mallets / meat tenderizers is they can rip cheap Lewis bags pretty easily. Wood works just as effectively and is less abrasive (and, imho, looks better too)

u/MisterSalad · -1 pointsr/pics

He'll order a large wooden mallet online, paint the head grey with some spraypaint. wrap a thin ragged leather strap stolen from a baseball glove around the handle.... It would be perfect, so little effort, so much praise from fucking worthless nerds. At the very least it will impress the shit out of you, right "rodohilo"? Right? Because badly painting a red sled got your e-panties all wet.

AND I CAN TAKE 50 PICTURES OF MYSELF WHILE I COMPLETE A TWO-TASK PROJECT! OH GOD, WHICH INSTAGRAM FILTERS WILL I CHOOSE! THATS LIKE THE HARDEST PART OF MY PROJECT BRO!

Fuck, what am i doing! I dont want to give this asshole any ideas. All this sweet, sweet praise for my shitty adult arts and crafts could be mine all mine! Oh sweet, i could have a huge bunch of shut-ins and manchildren calling me all sorts of cool! DONT STEAL MY IDEAS! STAMPED IT! DOUBLE-STAMPED IT!

u/MisterNoisy · 3 pointsr/gundeals

I bought one of these a while ago from an Amazon vendor. It's heavy as fuck, but does the job.

EDIT: Don't know if you need other tools, but this seems like a pretty good deal too, since it also includes vise blocks and a front sight tool for not much more.

EDIT #2: You'll also want a roll pin punch set if you don't already have one. A roll pin starter set and a rubber/plastic mallet are nice to have but not absolutely needed.

u/Roguewolfe · 2 pointsr/ar15

Looks good, sir. I did the same thing with a google doc for my 300BLK build.

I really like those sights, I have the exact same ones with the HK style front on my Windham SRC.

If you don't already have a hammer, you'll want to get a non-metal one to use with the punches. I got this one, good price and works well.

u/luxh · 2 pointsr/boardgames

This mallet works pretty well for getting pieces to fit together: TEKTON 30812 Double-Faced Soft Mallet, 35 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWVAUUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQ7hDb17C17DE

Also, I only use glue a few times per insert, when a joint feels particularly loose. Most brands fit together nicely and feel quite sturdy when they’re done. I second the recommendation for gorilla wood glue on this front.

u/HopHeadIPA · 1 pointr/Leathercraft

Thanks for the interest. I used 2-3oz economy leather from Tandy Leather. Here's the list of tools I used:

u/scottishpride · 2 pointsr/Woodcarving

The first set is just gouges a chisel and a skew so unless you are planning on doing purely relief carving then I would agree with /u/brazosrr. The flexcut set has all the knives you will need for a very long time. For the Hammer you do not want a ball peen hammer for carving what you want is a wooden mallet like this How every you do not need that until you get bigger tools so I would not suggest it.

It comes down to how much you want to spend. If I were to rebuy by tools I would get just flexcut and swiss made. I have have never had a problem with them and they hold there edge for a long time.

u/Combat_crocs · 4 pointsr/ar15

If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.

I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.

Some other things you'll want to have handy:

Vice Block for Lower

Vice Block for Upper

Roll pin starter kit

Rubber Mallet

Torque Wrench

These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.

Best of luck!

EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!

u/demontits · 124 pointsr/howto

It's not that much stuff - Here's the cheapest things on Amazon. For sure a lot better deals if you just go into Harbor Freight though.

Torch - $17

Mallet - $9

Jeweler Saw - $14

Tiny Files - $10 or A rotary tool - $15

​

A regular file - $8 (optional)

​

If you want to process the silver yourself you need a

Crucible - $15

That torch again

Tongs - $9

Welding Gloves - $9

Jewelry Rolling Mill - $169

u/Birguslatro · 1 pointr/Tools

Here's a Garland https://www.amazon.com/Garland-11000-Rawhide-Mallet-Size-0/dp/B00DJPM50Q/ I don't know if you're married to the T&C brand or not but this price seems good, similar handle

u/PhysicsDude55 · 2 pointsr/Tools

First, I would not recommend using those rubber caps - they'll probably leave black marks on whatever you're hitting.

I would recommend getting a specific non-marring hammer rather that putting a rubber cup over a regular hammer.

I really like this hammer:
TEKTON 30812 Double-Faced Soft Mallet, 35 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWVAUUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hmYACbJB984TN

Also, a few layers of electrical tape on a regular hammer works too, in a pinch.

u/mikerooooose · 1 pointr/gardening

I measured/marked the holes using a combination square. Then I drilled 5/8 holes in opposite corners cut area. Then I used a cheap ($20) electric jig saw to cut out the area as best as possible. I would follow the lines on one side, then flip it over and cut it again. The jig saw blade bends so it cuts on an angle. Finally, I used a chisel to remove excess material and clean up the holes and straighten them out.

Combination Square
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005XUHIBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1" Chisel (or you can get a set of three for a little more)
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-M444-1-Inch-MARPLES-Chisel/dp/B0000CBJH8/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1493124918&sr=8-20&keywords=irwin+chisel+marples

Mallet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020JNDI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jig Saw
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDEJS300C-Jig-4-5-Amp/dp/B00OJ72L84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493125013&sr=8-1&keywords=4.5+amp+jigsaw

u/WhoPutDatPlanetThere · 1 pointr/woodworking

Hi I'm searching for a hammer/mallet type instrument of destruction...that isn't all that destructive. I saw these Japanese chisel hammers people were apparently also using on planes and some dual sided hammers with a soft and a harder side which made me wonder if there was one that would work on both wood and metal without damaging either one. Specifically I hope to use it to adjust a wooden plane requiring me to hit both metal and wood. I'm trying not to spend a lot of money to start out with so I want to avoid things that go into the realm of luxury tools.

cheaper dual sided hammer without replaceable ends

dual sided hammer with replaceable ends and higher price

japanese steel hammer (flat/domed ends)

u/bonafidebob · 3 pointsr/software

These three hammers also accomplish the same tasks. ...generally speaking.

Don't pick the wrong one.

u/Theonlykd · 2 pointsr/DIY

Wood Hockey stick price new - $35.00 (I didn't use any of these)

Wood Hockey stick price used - $5.00 (I used 2 of these)

Hockey stick price used (donated from friends) - $0.00 (I used 2 of these)

Mallet Price - $35

Homemade mallet VALUE - priceless

u/trancelucent · 20 pointsr/BurningMan

Oh, also my mallet. It does it's job for tent stakes and 4 inch nails. However, it does not do its job for hammering 2' rebar a foot into the ground.

The AMAZING guy at Bird Camp across the street lent us his steel mallet, because "you were getting more rebound off of that thing than it was being driven into the ground, and I was embarrassed for you." :C

u/lametec · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

Maybe something like this?

Are you hammering on singe coils at a time or several? Based on the size of your "paddle", it looks like maybe you're hammering a large area at a time. Of course, I can't really tell how big the paddle is compared to the mallets your using (or a banana, even), so that might just be an optical illusion of sorts.

u/tausciam · 1 pointr/ar15

Yep Here it is on Amazon and you can see five different people talking about how they used it on their AR and it worked great.

On other things, maybe....NOT on this pin. This pin is the granddaddy of shit pins

u/vermontbicycleshop · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Stop using rubber or plastic mallets. This is what you should have if you want to hit something and not leave a mark:
http://www.amazon.com/JEWELERS-RAWHIDE-MALLET-GARLAND-LEATHER/dp/B00WGZRQVS


A good set of tampico brushes and this cassette lock ring tool:
http://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/tools/products/dual-sided-sl

u/Simpleprinciple · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This Mallet because i need something softer than a hammer sometimes.
Junkyard dogs