Reddit mentions: The best masonry tools

I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.

With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.

Some sites that helped me a bunch were:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)

And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)

And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h

Some important tools and materials are:

• 220grit wet/dry, 150grit wet-dry, 8000 wet/dry
  
• A full kit of grits for blade sharpening down to .1 micron). The Sample Pack -- either 1 or 2 sheets of each is what I use.
  
• Granite slabs
  
• Metal File
  
• Evaporust - (this stuff is amazing, you can see the results in the albums below)
  
• Brushes (plastic, brass, steel bristle)
  
• Dupli-Color semigloss black engine enamel (Dupli-Color # DE-1635)
  
• Spray Adhesive
  
• Sharpening/Honing Guide - I got the Irwin model from Amazon
  
• Rags
  
• Murphy's Wood Soap
  
• Olde English Wood Restorer
  
  I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.
  
  I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.
  
  The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.
  
  Albums
  -------
  
• Family Photo Album - All planes completed. 1 Sold already and 2 are ending tomorrow
  
• Stanley No.4 Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete & Added to personal collection
  
• Stanley No 4c Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete and Sold for a $56 profit!
  
• Stanley No.5 Record Type 9 - Complete & Added to personal collection
  
• Stanley No.5 Type 17 (Purple Bed) - Complete
  
• Keen Kutter No.4 - Complete
  
  For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:
  
  > Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.
  
  > Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like.
  > Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this.
  > Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like.
  > Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out.
  > That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details.
  > ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).
  
  It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea:
  > This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.
  
  Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:
  
  

1. Took apart and cleaned all parts with soapy water and a plastic bristle brush
   
2. Soaked in Evaporust for 24-hours
   
3. Cleaned all parts with plastic, brass, and steel bristle brushes while in Evaporust
   
4. Cleaned all parts with soapy water
   
5. Dried all parts completely and then wiped with mineral spirits to get any remaining H20.
   
6. Coated all parts in 3-in-1 oil
   
7. Repainted bed if necessary.
   
8. Reassembled
   
9. Using Sharpie to mark bed and wings, flatten all sides with sandpaper on a granite slab. Used 150 grit and 220 grit wet/dry.
   
10. Flatten lever cap contact point and front edge with 150g and 220 grit sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face
    
11. Flatten chip-breaker (cap iron) contact point with 150g and 220g sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face.
    
12. Adjust frog positioning for desired plane task (paper thin for smoothing No.4's, wider for No.5's)
    
13. Restore knob and tote. Cleaned with Murphy's Wood Soap and polished with Olde English Dark Wood Restorer. (I wanted to keep the patina on these parts instead of sanding them down to bare wood and re-finishing. They are old tools and I want that to be reflected somewhere that wouldn't affect performance.)
    
14. Sharpen blade with Scary Sharp method ( sand paper, Japanese Super Stone, 40 micron, 15 micron, 5 micron, .3 micron, and .1 micron grit progression). Cambered the blades of the No.5 I plan to keep but left all others 100% square so new users can adjust to their preference.
    
15. Test!
    
    Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!
    
    --------------------------------------------
    
    I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?

Absolutely!! I actually didn’t know what they were called at first, spotted them in a nursery where a whole tray of plants was sitting on top of another tray with water and the little plants all had strings out of the drainage hole and in the water. By the way, googling “string from bottom of nursery pot” didn’t get me anything useful. Lol. Eventually, I stumbled upon a vacation wicking article and had an aha moment!

It’s a little magical string that pulls water up into the soil from a container of water. The awesome benefit is that it won’t overwater, once the soil is good and moist, it stops pulling up water. (So says the internet.) Use very cautiously with plants that like a dry period between watering. (I’m looking at you, pussy ears aka Kalanchoe tomentosa.)

There’s probably some nice houseplant articles about this, I’ll just summarize my methods. :)

SETUP
I’m using a synthetic nylon string, feeding it out thru the drainage hole, leaving about 4 inches out, then the rest I’m seating snuggly into the plant’s rootball. I usually wrap it around in middle-ish area close to the roots or try to run it thru the center. (Depends on which method won’t be too invasive to the poor thing.)

Idea is very similar to self watering pots that use capillary action, except my ball of nylon cost way less and literally turns any pot into self watering while I’m away for week+. The wick has to be synthetic (nylon or something) and not cotton because mold and etc can live in cotton. Yuck!

This is what I’m using: The Premier Line ML339 Mason's Line 500-Foot Fluorescent Yellow Braided Nylon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RJ6YSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iANzDbA9ZJHQ9

SOIL
Type of soil should not impact wickability. I’ve got a few mixes in the works. Have been trying to switch everything to organic mix and organic fertilizers (keeps microbes alive) instead of synthetic or peat. (Turns out there’s some environmental issues with peat being abused and not renewable at the rate it’s dug up.) I haven’t used sand, I’ve got perlite mixed in quite a bit.

I’m pretty sure I’m repotting things more than necessary. So far though no one has dropped dead or gone to shock. Yay happy plants in good dirt!

VACATION
On a regular day, the wick is hidden under the pot in the saucer. On vacation day, I’ll set everyone up with their own cup/Tupperware/bucket of water and sit the pot on top with wick in water.

Biggest wicking test was being away for 10 days. I came back and everyone was happy and watered! Biggest vacation problem was actually my plant locations didn’t have optimal lighting. They were quite unhappy, I’ve started using a light meter app now and being more generous on sunlight.

REGULAR WATERING
I have also been experimenting with using wicks to regularly water, because this may help prevent overwatering or under-watering. Starting with my very moisture loving plants (ferns, ivies), I’ve setup rocks in the saucer and wick is touching the bottom, when I water I’ll fill up the saucer with water and let the wick pull up proper amount instead of me guessing. (I’m still top watering a little bit, but not the full run until water comes from drainage hole.) I’m not keeping constant water in the rocks, but I will fill them up as needed to water these plants. For ferns, this literally seems to be constant water. Lol. I think that helps raise humidity too and I’m not worried about some water evaporating instead of wicking. I water in morning and check back in evening to make sure wicking worked!

ISSUES
There has been some discrepancy in effective watering depending on how young the plant is. I think that’s because the wicks do need to be near the roots or maybe my yarn isn’t thick enough. I’m leaning toward my installation being the issue though. Because some of these were setup using chopstick method (take wick, wrap around chopstick and gently stick up a drainage hole) rather than actual proper planting with the wick. I will fix these in spring, don’t want to disturb my babies so close to winter.

Overall, I’m super happy with my wick setup. Only plants that don’t have them are succulents.


Hope you find this useful!!!

Howdy - sorry for the slow reply! First off, I apologize for the detail but I have no idea if you know all this already or not. I'm no expert and learned all this as part of building our own house and thousands of hours of research. I figure it's better to overshare than provide too little.

Our walls were not parged. Based on what you have said, I'd think the tapcon-equivalent screws and glue would be the way to go though almost certainly overkill. If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing. In this case, you put glue on the board and spread it with a spreader. You then put the board on the wall and it will lock in place a bit with the glue. Then you drill into the wall through the foam for the screws/anchors. Finally, you just drive the anchors into and it's all locked together - solid and secure and very well insulated. After that, you tape the seams and you now have a tightly insulated basement and a great vapor barrier all in one.

This is the glue we used for the boards we did glue down:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043G3NYC/ref=asc_df_B003YHIAHQ5453396/
It worked very well and wasn't too nasty to work with. We used a spreader to avoid wasting glue. It also ensures you get good adhesion:
https://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-6287-Plastic-Notched-Spreader/dp/B000GARZ9S/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2

Drilling that many holes in concrete is a pain so you need a rotary hammer (at least I'd highly recommend it - useful tool all around as well). I used the 1 1/8th inch one from Harbor Freight but wished I'd picked up the larger one as it can get bits all the way up to 1 /12 diameter or more. Those huge bits are used to put holes in concrete for things like piping. Either way, it's a lot higher quality than I expected and makes short work of each hole:
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=rotary+hammer

We used Simpson anchors as they were a LOT cheaper than tapcons. We got em from a large construction supply house locally:
https://www.strongtie.com/mechanicalanchors_mechanicalanchoringproducts/ttn2_screw/p/titen-2
These need to be driven in along with some large washers. It takes some force so I'd suggest an impact driver using a socket or you'll kill your arms by the third board :)

As an alternative, Hilti and a few other companies make insulation anchors as well - here is a picture of them on Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/i/352329215437?chn=ps
These require you to drill the wall and then hammer the fastener in. I didn't use those as I was in a hurry and couldn't get a quick local source of them without costing even more than the concrete anchors I used.

We used pressure treated 2x4 lumber for the fire block - every ten feet horizontally and eight feet vertically. For that reason, it's useful to get the "score board" type XPS foam. It has scoring that makes it trivial to split it in 1/2. That means two full sheets and one half sheet then a 2x4 screwed to the wall. The concrete screws and glue work great for the 2x4 as well.

Finally, you use good tape to seal all the seams to create a proper vapor barrier. This is what we used and it does adhere well to foam:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FQFROI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?

Whew, lots of stuff. Again I apologize if you already knew this. Please let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to respond more quickly. Thanks and good luck!

-Mike

Awesome! Great video, thanks for doing that. Now I have something to link people to when I bring it up. Two tips:

To get the alignment of the connector and drawer mechanism perfect on the first try, you plug the 72pin connector into the mainboard and then set the drawer in place on top of it. You screw in the 6 screws, but only a couple turns to get them started. Then insert a cart and lock it down into place like you were going to boot the system up. This aligns everything naturally. With the cart still locked down into place, tighten up all 6 screws and you're done.

To clean carts that you've cleaned a dozen times but still don't work, you need a brass brush. Brass is a nice soft metal (you probably have a brass soldering iron tip cleaner) that works great at cleaning other metals. Spray the contacts down with some of that cleaner you've got, and then scrub back and forth across the pins. Don't be afraid to apply some pressure. This roughs up the surface of the goldfingers, removing all sorts of oxidized crap that alcohol and even contact cleaner can't dissolve. I had one Intellivision cartridge from the 1970s that was so corroded I didn't think it would ever boot, but came right back to life after a brushing. Here's a link to some brushes I bought on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7064-Mini-Brush-3-Piece/dp/B0037UUZRS/ (The nylon one is great for cleaning console exteriors, and the steel one can be used to clean your BBQ grill.)

As a side note, it doesn't matter if the connector sits on the bottom the whole time. The surface temperature of the bottom of a pan full of water boiling at 100C is going to be within a couple degrees of 100C itself. Sort of counter-intuitive. You'd expect the pan bottom to be really hot, but it's not. There's actually a fun science fair thing you can do that shows this in action: boiling water in a paper cup. Check it out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9gKzea3Cno

You should be able to clean off the pads, re-tin them, and re-solder new wires to them.

 

You'll need a few tools:

• A small brass wire brush to clean the gunk off of the pads, something like these: Mini Wire Brush Set
  
• Some desoldering wick - a thin copper braid, like this: Desoldering Wick
  
• Rosin Paste Flux for electronics: Rosin Paste Flux
  
• Some 60% Lead/40% Tin Rosin Core Solder, .062" diameter: 60/40 Rosin Core Solder
  
• A soldering iron. I assume you have one, but if not you can't go too badly wrong with something like this: Vastar 60W Soldering Kit
  
   
  
  Clean and tin the soldering iron tip:
  
  

1. Take some paper towels, fold them up into a square and get it wet with water. You'll use the wet paper towel to wipe off the hot tip between uses.
   
2. Use the rosin core solder and apply some to the soldering iron tip.
   
3. Wipe off any excess on the paper towel.
   
   
    
   
   Remove the solder from the pads on the heat bed:
   
    
   
   
4. Clean the gunk off of the solder pads with the brass brush - the brass bristles should clean off the surface without damaging it, whereas steel bristles may cut into the surface a bit much.
   
5. Unwind a few inches of the desoldering wick (copper braid), and dip the end into the rosin paste flux - you don't need a lot. The rosin helps the solder to flow and keeps impurities out.
   
6. Put the desodering wick on top of the solder on the pad, and then press the tip of the soldering iron on top of the wick until it heats up. For an adjustable soldering iron, 300F is about right - you want the solder to melt within 5 seconds or less, ideally.
   
7. The solder will melt, and get sucked up into the wick. Remove it from the pad while the solder's still hot
   
8. You should be left with a bright shiny tinned solder pad.
   
    
   
   Add some solder to the pads - you'll want a little bit of solder to cover the whole pad, with enough to make a small bump.
   
   
9. Take the solder, and touch it down flat on the pad.
   
10. Place the soldering iron tip on top to melt it. Feed a little more solder in while it's hot, if needed.
    
     
    
    Tin the wires:
    
    
11. Cut off the ends of the wire, and strip off the end of the insulation by about 1/4"-3/8".
    
12. Twist the end of the wire so that it's tight, and straight.
    
13. Cut off a small piece of the solder (~1/2"), and wrap it around the wire
    
14. Dip the end of the wire into the rosin flux - you don't need a lot.
    
15. Touch the soldering iron tip to the solder and the wire, and coat the wire back and forth until the solder gets sucked into the wire.
    
16. It should have enough solder so that it gets absorbed and you can still see the outline of the wires.
    
     
    
    Attach the tinned wires to the tinned solder pads on the heat bed:
    
    
17. Dip the tinned wire into the flux paste again - a little goes a long way.
    
18. Place the tinned wire down on top of the tinned solder pad.
    
19. Press the soldering iron tip on top of the wire, and heat it until the solder melts on both the wire and the pad.
    
20. There should be just enough solder so that the wire is attached to the pad, but isn't buried in solder. If in doubt, add a little more.
    
21. Hold the wire in place, and remove the soldering iron tip. It should cool in a few seconds, locking the wire in place.
    
    
     
    
    Also: You can use some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to clean up the excess rosin paste - it can get sticky.
    
    
     
    
    Hope this helps!

Doing drywall doesn't take a lot of specialized equipment. There are tons of videos on youtube. I don't have one that's better than another, maybe someone else will chime in as well. A couple of ladders, a couple of screwguns, a utility knife to cut it. You can get a drywall square, but a straight board will work as well. You'll want a couple of blades- a 6" and a 10-12" should be fine. You can get drywall mud online, but the shipping is crazy. You'll need drywall tape. A jab saw will help to cut out for electrical boxes, etc. Screws would probably be ebtter purchased there also. You'll also want corner bead. A cornering tool is also helpful. You can buy more specialized equipment, but this should cover the essentials, except for the drywall itself. Best wishes to you, stay safe.

Levelquik works great, and it's easier to use than most other cementious materials. It works on thicknesses from 1" to 0, so having it only cover parts of your floor and feather to nothing is not a problem. Follow the directions on the bag EXACTLY and use a graduated bucket to measure out the water you add. The best way to mix it is in a 5 gallon bucket with an electric drill and a paddle mixer. A cordless drill, if that's all you have, will not be sufficient and in this case you'll have to do it by hand, but that isn't the end of the world. Although it is a self-leveling product, you'll want something to help it along for best results, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002N5Q0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1398201752&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Both levelquik and an appropriate float can be purchased at Home Depot. For around $55 total.

First of all, let me begin by saying that I like black floors. Ok, sorry. Second of all, from the look of your pics on some of the painted white floor boards, you can see the drills indentation around the hole, where they drilled in order to put in the nails. Those drilled holes are the only reason that oak is not all split up. And removing those pieces without the oak splitting up would prove difficult, if not impossible.

Question: Are the nailed cut boards moving when stepped upon? Or are they quite solid?
Because if they are solid, or near that, you can place some masking tape over the gaps between the boards, in order to keep a wood filler product from falling through, and just fill up the entire sloping area the best you can. Or you can caulk all of the gaps the day before you put down the filler, with construction glue. Construction glue might prove the better solution, to solidify and strengthen the area as much as possible before the putty becomes part of your floor.


Get something like this and mix it up, easy on the water.

And use something like this to smooth out the product.

I dealt with a similar issue when removing paneling from level 1 drywall in my home, and found a method that worked for me. Remove as much adhesive as possible with a scraper (a little damage to the facing is okay as long as you don’t gouge down to the gypsum). Then use a drywall sander with a 36-grit disk like this one and take it down a bit more to smooth things out.

WEN 6369 Variable Speed 5 Amp Drywall Sander with 15' Hose

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRL9XYI/

Do any needed patches and repairs (gouges, holes, etc) and then roll the surface with a primer sealer (I used PPG). A good tip is to have some black added to the primer to add contrast. Then skim coat the surface with thinned out compound to get back to a nice, smooth finish. Prime and paint.

In my case it was more labor than doubling up or replacing the Sheetrock, but I just decided I didn’t want to deal with hauling all that drywall if I didn’t have to. For a ceiling I think it would probably be a worthwhile way to go (my shoulder doesn’t like taping overhead anymore).

For the skim coat, I rolled thinned premix on with a half inch roller, and scraped with a squeegee trowel like this (I used the 14” and 22” ones)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CCGEDOE/

it is really beyond repair and anything you might do to it is just going to crack up again. If I was you and wanted to make things look nice I would remove all the loose stuff around the tree and pull up all those bricks and regrade the yard so its level with the slab.. looks like you have a nice rake there.. then get yourself a 2 gallon pump sprayer and put half a gallon of bleach in it and the rest water and spray it down real good and keep it wet for half an hour with bleach solution then wash everything away.. looks like you have some patching to do near the corner of the house near the grate and you can dig out some of the dirt and put in a couple inches of concrete there. as for patching cracks its not going to last long especially if you're in an area where it gets cold in the winter. you can use a mortar mix and then add portland cement to it to make it stronger .. then use a concrete brush to apply a skim coat of portland cement to the surface of the concrete just to make it look uniform.. but it won't last more than a year or two depending where you live.... its like doing your driveway or staining your deck.. every couple years.. maybe maybe not

but the big thing is making it better than it is now.. and put maybe 2 weekends into this.. its not rocket science heh its just a lot of raking that dirt back and washing it down.

The basics are pretty easy, and can usually be found at a standard Ace, or even easier, just on Amazon.

Metric tape, 5m.

Folding ruler, 2m.

Trowel. Most archaeologists in the US tend to use Marshalltown 45-5 pointer trowels. Some like the margin trowels as well.

Line level.

I'll add more later...

edit:

Honestly, those are the only things you really need. You could also throw in things like a file for your trowel or to touch up a shovel if needed, but usually that's not really necessary. You could buy a Munsell book, but they're quite expensive and someone running a project will have one available.

• A powerful handheld flashlight or a head-mounted light is way better at lighting up the road to see where you're going. lights on your board just improves your visibility to people around you.
  
  
• I have a few extra pairs of replacement belts. I don't want to have to wait a week or more if my belts ever rip. The model is Gates 225-3MGT-15 PowerGrip GT3 and I got mine at http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Gates-225-3MGT-15-PowerGrip-GT3-Synchronous-Belt-9400-5075-p17363.htm (they were backordered last fall and it took over a month for them to ship)
  
  
• Along with the helmet, get wristguards!
  
  
• I'm a fan of the Bash Guards on https://www.flatland-3d.com/shop/ (rounded for the front and pronged for the rear)
  
  
• A skate tool with a long, thin 3/8 inch socket to get in between the motor to access the hardware on your trucks https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Ratchet-Skateboard-Tool-SILVER/dp/B00HNWT68K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488048371&sr=8-1&keywords=silver+skate+tool
  
  
• A cheap block of sanding belt cleaner. Sold in most hardware stores https://www.amazon.com/LARGE-SANDING-CLEANER-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B000H69U7Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488048453&sr=8-1&keywords=belt+sand+cleaner
  
  
• Wire brush https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7064-Brush-Stainless-3-Piece/dp/B0037UUZRS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488048504&sr=8-3&keywords=wire+brush+set (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcXRQKVHViI)

Your coils in both shots have a significant patina and your cotton looks too used and slightly burned, both of which will severely affect flavor. I'd recommend getting these brushes and once every two days or so (unless your juice is very very sweet) pulling out your cotton, and gently brushing down your coils to remove the gunk while rinsing under cold water. You'd be surprised at how much better your vape will taste!

While wera are nice (I own both some normal screwdrivers and a kraftform kompact r). you may want to look into the wiha 26inone screwdrivers if you are looking for a multi-bit. Their quality is often said to be equal to wera's. Here is the technicians version, the industrial version and the tradesman version they are pretty reasonable for a multi bit driver.

For reference, the rubbing brick looks something like this.

They work pretty well for smoothing and minimal removal.

if you buy a couple concrete tools, edger and trowel, (this kit is an awesome buy) you can finish the bottom in the video and use it for the top. this way you won't have any voids to repair.

I don't think it matters per se, but what I used was:


https://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-3-Piece-Brush-Set-173163/dp/B0012TRJ9I


That I found at my local motorcycle shop. Was happy with it

They had a machine to lay it, and then used a form like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Curb-It-Yourself-Concrete-Trowel/dp/B01MZAWYI6

Good luck!

Surprised there has been no love for Wiha's 26in1 till your post.

Has Trades, Tech, and Industrial bit sets.

Not a garden trowel, more like a bricklayer's trowel, shaped like so.

A dremel maybe? I'd make a little jig for the extension cable (see amazon ) but there's Dremel brand adapters & tools you might be interested in.

No its just bright fluorescent string. Here and Here are the ones I used. I have blacklights in this room, which is the reason the strings look like that. As for a tutorial, I kind of found a way to connect the patterns without needing to cut the string. Here is the pattern that is repeated.

I am happy with this ones

I don't understand what it is you are not getting. I bought a set of wire brushes from Amazon that look like tooth brushes but are just a bit bigger. They come in a set of three. Here is the actual [site] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037UUZRS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00). You get three brushes for $4.65 each one is a different bristle.

you could always get a trowel. http://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-Premier-46-114S-Pointing/dp/B003A83GK0/ref=pd_sim_hi_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1YADPR01634PQY8F11F2

> In the description it says that there are some minor plating issues. Rust is not a minor plating issue imo.

In the seller's defense, he did show a picture of the inside of the head. Pictures count as a part of the description. But from the picture, it is hard to tell exactly what kind of crud is in the inside of that head. So if you wanted to return it on that basis, I could see your argument too.

Regarding the rust, the razor itself cannot rust. It's made from brass and nickel plating, so there's no iron to form any actual rust. If it is actual rust, it could be from any blades left stored in the razor for a long time. If it's not rust, it could be another type of corrosion--typically corrosion of the razor itself will show itself as green buildup. Regardless of the cause, you can remove it using a brass-bristled brush.

I use a brass brush like the one included in this set:

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037UUZRS

But really just about anything will work if you heat up the extruder to whatever temperature you use to print that filament.

Generally, I only really worry about cleaning the nozzle. When I opened this thread I was expecting some giant amounts of solid filament to be stuck your extruder, but what is shown in the picture is like nothing, I wouldn't even bother cleaning the sides of the extruder probably unless/until the build up got worse.