Reddit mentions: The best measuring & layout products

We found 1,295 Reddit comments discussing the best measuring & layout products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 560 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

4. General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter, Water Leak Detector, Moisture Tester, Pin Type, Backlit LCD Display With Audible and Visual High-Medium-Low Moisture Content Alerts, Grays

    Features:
  • HUMIDITY SENSOR: Our handy meter tool can quickly determine what level of remediation is needed to keep your family safe from black mold. High levels of dampness that go untreated are the leading cause of harmful fungus growth in the home.
  • WATER LEAK DETECTOR: Finding the moisture content in your wood or drywall is the first step in early prevention. Continuously check and test suspicious water stains around the house so you can determine whether the area is wet or has already dried.
  • MOISTURE READER: The mold test features large 0.3" high digits in a backlit LCD for quick and easy detecting. Our mildew scanner includes extra 8mm stainless steel pins, a protective cap that doubles as a calibration checker, and a “9V” battery.
  • MOLD TESTER: For an accurate test read, stick the stainless steel pins into the surface of what you're measuring. The gauge has a broad range of 5 - 50% for wood and 1.5 - 33% for building materials such as concrete and drywall.
  • GENERAL TOOLS: We're a recognized leader in designing and developing specialized precision tools dedicated to delivering exceptional customer service. We encourage artisans and DIYers to work smarter, measure better, and repair more productively.
General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter, Water Leak Detector, Moisture Tester, Pin Type, Backlit LCD Display With Audible and Visual High-Medium-Low Moisture Content Alerts, Grays
Specs:
ColorGrays
Height1.4 Inches
Length5.55 Inches
Number of items1
SizePin Type
Weight1 Pounds
Width9.5 Inches
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19. Empire Level 4004 48-Inch Aluminum Straight Edge

    Features:
  • Heavy-Duty aluminum straight edge
  • Easy reading inch scale graduations
  • Width is 2"
Empire Level 4004 48-Inch Aluminum Straight Edge
Specs:
ColorSilver
Height0.13 Inches
Length48 Inches
Number of items1
Weight1.07 Pounds
Width2 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on measuring & layout products

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where measuring & layout products are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Measuring & Layout:

u/cadandcookies · 1 pointr/FTC

What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?

Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?

What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?

How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?

If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.

I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.

I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.

You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.

Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.

To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.

As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).

As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).

You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.


You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.

A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.

Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.

u/todays_throwaday · 2 pointsr/RedPillWomen

I'm not sure if this is quite the right place to put this, but as someone who is very into fitness, health, etc, I want to put good information out there for people to see. Your statement about not losing weight possibly due to muscle gain reminded me of a pretty important idea:

Worry less about the scale and more about the mirror and your waist/hip measurements. The scale numbers matter, but not as much as you might think.

Here is an article on the average ideal waist:hip, waist:chest, and BMI for both men and women:
Ideal to real: What the perfect body really looks like


For the BMI, I'd recommend using this calculator, which BMI with an exponent of 2.5 instead of 2.0, making it better for people of significantly above or below average height:

New BMI Calculator

Here were the ideal numbers for women designed by men:

  • BMI of 18.8

  • Waist-to-hip ratio ratio of .73

  • Waist-to-chest ratio of .69

    Obviously, you have less control over bust size than you might like, but handling your waist:hip ratio and trying to eat towards the ideal BMI is going to massively increase your sex appeal, mating options, and body satisfaction. The good news is, these are averages, and as long as you are reasonably close, you are going to be somebody's ideal.

    EDIT: Just to give a concrete example of this, I like narrower/flatter hips, a smaller chest, and a bit more muscle than most men. This will lead to a small overall size and low curves, but a somewhat higher BMI due to the higher muscle density. However, most women would be very well served by tailoring their fitness regimen to approach the above numbers over time.


    You can track both your weight and your measurements pretty cheaply. Here are a couple of products on Amazon that make it very easy:

    Body measurement tape, $5

    Digital scale, $23

    I own both of these products and I am very satisfied with them. I'd say measure yourself in the morning after relieving yourself for the most accurate & consistent results.

    Fitness and health are both easier and harder than people make them out to be. Often we pursue ideals that are a bit wrongheaded, and it is difficult to form good habits. However, once you pick the right goals, and you establish the good habits, it gets fairly easy and very rewarding. Happy self-improvement, folks!
u/RainyDayRose · 11 pointsr/konmari

For reference, discarding took about 4.5 months in my 1400 sq foot home and two storage sheds. I have started working on deep cleaning, upgrading necessary yet ugly items, and storage/organizing. I expect this to take another two months. I am watching "Clean My Space" and "Home Organizing by Alejandra.tv" channels on YouTube now to help with the process.

I am trying to keep in mind getting products out of original packaging, if possible, to limit exposure to constant advertising in my home. I am choosing to spend quite a bit on higher quality products that I love and expect to last many years. Fortunately, I have a budget that allows for some luxuries.

Bedroom

I started with my closet and these great baskets from the container store http://www.containerstore.com/s/whitewash-rattan-bins/d?productId=10037633&q=Large%20Rattan%20Bin%20Whitewash. The closet has a built in shoe organizer and I used my label maker to indicate what style shoes go on which shelf – heels, sandals, sneakers, flats and boots. I also labeled the shelf for each basket. Clothes hangers are all white. They used to be all kinds of colors, and I realized that white is more calming. I am now using these for my socks and undies since konmari folding did not quite work for me on those items http://www.amazon.com/MIU-COLOR-Collapsible-Underwear-Organizer/dp/B009A3HTXY. The folding works great for most of my other clothes. I am still pondering how to organize the nightstand drawers.

Kitchen

I bought a couple of 10" bamboo lazy susans for keeping my oils and vinegars organized in my cabinets. I bought some refrigerator organization units from InterDesign and the Rubbermaid FreshWorks Produce savers. I intend to get Oxo food storage containers for dry goods.
I upgraded to these measuring spoons http://www.amazon.com/Cuisipro-Stainless-Steel-Measuring-Spoon/dp/B00004SU1I and these measuring cups http://www.amazon.com/Sagler-Measuring-Piece-Heavy-duty-Stainless/dp/B00V5EFWTO.

When I was discarding in my kitchen I found I did not really love my dinnerware so I got this set http://www.amazon.com/Corelle-Coordinates-18-Piece-Dinnerware-Service/dp/B00R790CLY plus matching lunch sized plates. I love the simple clean lines and the durability of the product. I downsized from a 12 person setting to 6 and it is great.

Bath

Have not done much here yet. I don’t have much need for storage organization in the cabinets. Still considering what I want to do with the drawers. Right now the drawers are still organized with small cardboard boxes from Glossybox, a cut down cereal box, and an empty jigsaw puzzle box. I upgraded my plunger and brush to nice stainless steel containers, and got a toilet paper holder that matches them http://www.amazon.com/Home-Basics-Vented-Stainless-Toilet/dp/B00JB20IDW.

Laundry

I replaced my bulky plastic basket with this http://www.amazon.com/Bajer-Design-Marketing-5234-Basket/dp/B0010KZCFC. It now hangs on a Command Hook next to the washer.

Car

I have repacked the car kit and 72 hour emergency kits in these for my car and my son's car. ttp://www.amazon.com/TrunkCratePro-Best-Premium-Trunk-Organizer/dp/B01AHK0J9Y. We live in an area prone to natural disasters so I like to be prepared wherever we are. I bought a car trash container (http://www.amazon.com/Highland-1932600-Car-Trash-Keeper/dp/B0027QWNGO) and created a little kit in a ziplock bag in the glovebox with essentials. Also, found tissues in a round container that fits perfectly in the door cup holder. I also bought a set of matching reusable grocery bags (http://www.amazon.com/ReBagMe-Reusable-Grocery-Reinforced-Handles/dp/B00Y17OIR4) so I don’t have the mismatched set. Finally, I have these on order (http://www.amazon.com/Car-Hammer-Seatbelt-Emergency-Must-Have/dp/B00CB8WM2S). Not organization related, just something I have been thinking that I needed for safety.

Purse

I reassessed what is in my purse. I used a couple small cosmetics bags that I had on hand and now have many things I wished I had at various times. Everything is neatly organized and I know exactly what is in there and why I have it. Everything from safety pins, to pen and notebook (http://www.amazon.com/Marble-Composition-Books-Notebooks-Green/dp/B00WRDIS9I), to a tiny flashlight, a granola bar in case I am out and hungry, a tide stain remover pen, a tiny Band-Aid package, tiny measuring tape (http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot-4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH), my phone, my wallet, and my keys are always on the little hook. Not exactly Konmari minimalism, but those are all things that I wished I had at various times and I am happy that I will not be caught without again. It is a medium size purse, packed just right, with stuff easily accessible.

Home office

I have not done much there yet, but this drawer organizer is working pretty well http://www.amazon.com/Rolodex-Regeneration-Deep-Drawer-Organizer-21864/dp/B002JG48R4.

Command center

I am currently working on a “Command Center” to keep clutter off the kitchen counter. I have not purchased anything for that yet. I am writing down ideas, measuring, and considering products. http://thehappyhousie.porch.com/20-fabulous-command-centers-to-get-your-life-completely-organized/

Other random stuff:

I moved my CDs into a holder http://www.amazon.com/Case-Logic-DVDW-92-Capacity-Classic/dp/B00005ATMD and they now live on a Command Hook in my car. For movies I transferred them to these Sleeves http://www.amazon.com/Atlantic-74604729-Movie-Sleeves/dp/B002JR2V7C and they now live in a small drawer in my living room. I tossed the packaging because it was bulky and does not give me joy.

I am using these in my linen closet http://www.amazon.com/Honey-Can-Do-STO-02986-Nested-Woven-Esspresso. This box for my jewelry http://www.amazon.com/Black-Leather-Jewelry-Travel-Case/dp/B0006JCGUM.

Not related to organizing, but I am loving these brushes for getting tiny spaces clean. So much better than an old toothbrush. http://www.amazon.com/OXO-Good-Grips-Clean-Brush/dp/B003M8GMS6

If you made it this far, congrats. Something that I have noticed is that I can now shop with confidence, I can easily toss or donate the old unloved items, and I am organized enough to return those few items that don’t work as well as I hoped. My home feels much more open and inviting. I know where everything is and my clear vision is starting to come to fruition.

u/lying_Iiar · 3 pointsr/woodworking

If the bandsaw runs, it should still be useful. You can purchase a new blade if there's an issue with the existing one. The chisels will be fine, but you'll have to learn how to sharpen them. Sharpening systems can be expensive, though.

Otherwise it depends a little on what you want to build.

If I were starting out on a significant budget, I think I'd go with a skil saw, triangle square, tape measure, and drill/driver set. And I'd be thrilled to have a bandsaw & chisels. If you can, buy a good skil saw. Don't too much worry about the quality of the rest.

Those will all be very useful later, too, of course. Might build some sawhorses first and go from there.

A skil saw is really useful for breaking down pallets, as well, in case you plan on making use of them as a source of lumber while you're starting out.

If you want a more specific list, I own these products:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-312-Powerlock-Tape-Rule/dp/B00002X2GN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387060&sr=8-5&keywords=stanley+tape+measure

You don't need a 25' tape and a 12' tape is easier to use.

https://www.amazon.com/5280-01-15-Amp-4-Inch-Circular-Single/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387078&sr=8-3&keywords=skil+saw

That skil saw isn't the best in the world, but it'll get you pretty far.

https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101-7-inch-Square-Layout/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387123&sr=8-1&keywords=triangle+square

Just a cheap, basic square.

You'll also want some clamps, no doubt. On a tight budget I'd get some walmart cheapies. They're not great, but they get the job done, and clamps are crazy expensive. You want them to be basically like this:

https://www.amazon.com/IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed-Mini-Bar-Clamp-1964742/dp/B00002244S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387348&sr=8-1&keywords=woodworking+clamps+hand

But larger (12-36"). And walmart brand is cheaper, I think they're about $3 for a 12" clamp.

Good luck! Ask questions!

If your goals are to do fine woodworking, like interior furniture (that isn't "rustic")...or if your budget is much larger, then you'll be looking at an entirely different set of tools.

Table saw, planer, orbital sander, bandsaw (if yours is no good), bench grinder, miter saw, jointer, in order of importance (to me!). And lots and lots of hand tools. Marking gauge, marking knife, awl, variety of drill bits, counter sinks.

Belt sander, disc sander, jigsaw, router. Router can be way up there in importance if you make good use of it--very versatile tool. I just don't use it a ton personally, and bits can be very expensive.

u/coherent-rambling · 5 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

Here's what I would buy if I were equipping my garage workshop on a budget from scratch today:

  • Table Saw - Unless you go for hand tools, this is the absolute core of your shop. Do not buy a new saw for less money than this under any circumstances, because it's false economy and you'll soon outgrow it. You may wish to buy a cheaper used model, in which case you should shop for a Craftsman 113 (aim for a belt drive rather than direct drive) on Craigslist. Spend up to $150 and plan to build or buy a better fence in the first year, which will bring you up to roughly the same capability as the new saws.
  • Drill and Driver - You need a drill anyway. Everyone does. This is nothing fancy, but it's a tolerable set that should last a hobbyist quite a while, and both batteries and extra tools are cheap. Grab a set of drill bits and a few impact-rated screwdriver bits, or a fancy combo set of both.
  • Miter Saw - Indispensable for cutting long pieces. You may eventually wish to get a big 12" sliding monstrosity to make wider pieces easier to work with, but you can also do that with a table saw. I suggest an inexpensive variant of the most basic type of miter saw to start, so you've got a good foundation to work from but don't have a ton of sunk cost if you upgrade later.
  • Circular Saw - You'll use this for breaking down sheets of plywood bigger than your table saw can handle. You can also use it as a stand-in for the table saw for the first few projects. I'm recommending a lightweight cordless model for convenience during these simple, short tasks, but if you work with thick materials you may eventually want a powerful corded one as well - I've got a cordless and then a monstrous 15-lb worm drive saw for heavy duty use. If you just want to split the difference right off the bat and have one tool that's okay for everything and not great at anything, get a basic corded one.
  • Jigsaw - For cutting curves and small notches. Make sure you get one with orbital motion, but other than that you can go pretty cheap on this because you won't use it that often. However, buy top-of-the-line blades; I really like Bosch blades.
  • Router - This is a very capable middle-of-the-road router. You'll eventually want to add a plunge base, and might add a lightweight trim router to make edge profiles more easily. You can get accessories to expand on this, or you can eventually dedicate it to a router table and buy new for those other things - the variable speed motor on this is ideal for table use.
  • Sander - This is the most general-purpose sort of sander, although it's a little on the aggressive side for final sanding. Just hand-sand where you need more finesse until you know what other sanders you might want.
  • Combination Square - Use this for laying out cuts and holes and stuff.
  • Speed Square - That blue book will show you tons of neat tricks with this square. Mostly you're going to use it as a short guide for the circular saw, though.
  • Tape Measure

    Edit: Looks like that's about $1,100.00 depending on your local tax rate and how much of it you can slip past untaxed. That's steeper than I expected, but it's also an entire barebones shop for less money than the table saw I really want.
u/abnormal_human · 14 pointsr/woodworking

I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.

Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.

Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:

Hand Tools

u/teewuane · 1 pointr/homeowners

Assuming you had an inspection done you really don't have any tests to do as they all should already have been done. (Toxins in paint and such)

Locate your main water valve, main gas valve and meter, and breaker panel. Just so you know where they are. Open breaker panel, identify which breaker controls what. Hopefully they are marked.

Get a pair of bolt cutters. I've used mine many times for random jobs around the house. Speaking of tools, a basic $100 toolset comes in handy all the time and you'll never regret investing in a quality battery powered drill.

Change the code to the garage door opener.

Change locks on doors.

Take a lot of "before" pics. It's fun to look back and see how much your home has changed.

Look into rebates that are offered by your local utility companies ( electricity and gas). They'll usually give you free LED light bulbs, or great deals on random things like that. And where I live they'll even come out and do different audits for free to make sure things are running smoothly in your home.

Look into Sonic Internet in your area. I've heard good things about them lately.

Home improvement can quickly become overwhelming. Expect to get overwhelmed. Then expect to get inspired again.

Back to tools, get a quality stud finder. Not a hyped up beeping led one. Just a solid magnet one. Like this one. http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451979365&sr=1-1&keywords=stud+finder

Before you attempt to fix something, always just check out a video or two on YouTube. They will point out things like why you should not over tighten the bolts on your toilet. (I learned that one the hard way). Since then I always try to watch a video before fixing something. They will usually point out safety things and other "gotchas" that you should be aware of.

Can't think of much else right now. Good luck and congrats!

u/GoofBoy · 1 pointr/woodworking

I assume you have not used hand tools much.

The first thing I would learn how to do and invest in is how to get your tools sharp, like really sharp. I mean shiny flat back and edge razor sharp. Without really sharp tools - hand joinery is not fun and much harder than it needs to be.

There is the scary sharp method, I am sure u/Peniceiling's suggestion works great, I use Shapton Stones, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are woodworkers.

But you will need to research and invest time in some way of sharpening and get good at it.

A simple Honing Guide can make things easier when you start.

This Small Rip Dozuki B. was recommended by the instructor I had for a hand joinery class last year as the best bang for the buck they knew of - I found it works great.

I'd get a 1/2in Chisel. When you get the chisel, it will not be sharp. You will have to spend time tuning it up.

A Mallet to hit the chisel.

I personally prefer a round marking gauge. This has to be sharpened just like your chisel so it cuts the wood fibers evenly and cleanly.

Small Sliding Bevel gauge to mark your dovetails.

A good quality double square is invaluable. Best $ value I have found for one of these is here.

A 2.0mm lead holder with sharpener is very helpful. Lets you mark into areas a regular pencil will not fit.

That would be everything I can think of to do all half blind and through dovetails, finger-joints etc.

A drill(press) and a couple more chisels sizes will get you mortise and tenons with standard 4/4 6/4 and 8/4 stock.

Good Luck.

u/BornOnFeb2nd · 29 pointsr/keto
  1. The first rule of Keto, is we do NOT talk about Keto to folks "outside"

  2. The second rule of Keto, is WE DO NOT TALK ABOUT KETO TO FOLKS "OUTSIDE"! You will get a LOT of fear-mongering if you do. At first, only allude to it.. like "cutting out sugar", "watching what I eat", etc... when you have indisputable proof that it IS working, then you can actually mention "No/Low-Carb".

  3. Get some flair going! (over by the subscribe button, the 'normal' format is Gender/Age/Height Starting Weight, Current Weight, Goal, but do what you like with it)

  4. If you're putting it in your steak hole, you'd better be weighing it (if it's not pre-packaged), and logging it. Quite a few of us are on MFP. This can help avoid "surprises" later, and help keep you accountable, even if only to yourself. Once you get the hang of it, you can let up, but if you stall out, that'll be the first thing people will ask: "Are you logging what you eat?"

  5. Treat foods with <1g carbs/serving as 1g, save yourself the headache.

  6. If you don't know if it has carbs in it, assume it has carbs in it, and probably quite a bit more than you expect.

  7. MEASURE EVERYTHING! Take before pictures, take during pictures, use a scale, but don't trust the bastard. Invest in a measuring tape If you don't have one already. There WILL be weeks where the scale doesn't budge, but you might simply be replacing fat with muscle.

  8. You're about to shed a bunch of weight, it'll be water. If this is surprising to you, read the FAQ!, the FAQ is good!

  9. Bonus points if you can arrange for "pre" bloodwork, so you can get some "post" bloodwork to help with point #2

    oh, and welcome! :D
u/coletain · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.

A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.

If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.

Tiny-T Pocket rule

6" precision t rule

A really nice miter gauge

Router setup bars

A nice marking knife

Marking gauge

Magports

Tapeboss

Grr-ripper

Dozuki & Ryoba

Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)

Shop apron

Quick sanding strips

Digital Angle Gauge

Digital Height Gauge

Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey

u/kathios · 3 pointsr/confession

Command strips is definitely the way to go, but I find for some things the piece of it that holds the item is too big and fat for some things.

Nailing is an art. The first thing you would do is get a stud finder to make sure you're nailing something into a board and not just your wall and air. Your wall can hold most light things but if it's something like a heavy mirror or even a heavy picture frame you definitely need to find a stud. This stud finder is magnetic and will find the nail in the stud.

Then you would want to get your drill with a drill bit that is smaller than the nail is. Drill a hole into the wall just slightly downward, or just go straight it if you're not confident with your angles. Only drill in a couple inches. Do not try to drill or nail right where the stud finder found the nail, considering that there is already a nail there. Up and down the entire length of the wall where the stud finder sticks to is fair game to nail things, and there should be another stud every X feet or so (it depends).

Now you can hammer your nail in, just go easy with nice even soft strokes. And hold the hammer all the way up by the metal part for accuracy.

This all probably sounds tedious for this one project, but if you plan on hanging up more and more things it's a good idea to practice your household handiness. good luck!



u/Azurphax · 2 pointsr/StarWarsArmada

I have an army painter line laser, and got one because I saw two other people using them (in a fully lit room). The price seemed a little high. The non-line thing, the crossover x, really? That sucks. The word is that they are finnicky - the QA must suck because some are fine and other aren't. I've heard about other laser line levels having a curve to them perhaps because the lens was mismounted. I haven't heard about the non-line ones, but people were talking about how even with fresh batteries the line didn't work very brightly on some of them.

I had a similar issue, bought mine, tried it out same day, worked great. Left the batteries in there, came back to play with it a week later and, same as you, working, but barely. Just mega-dim.

So, I got new batteries. Tried them, they work fine. Now I store the batteries next to the laser in a snack bag. When its game time, pop in the batteries, then take them out hours and hours later when the games are done. I haven't needed to buy a third set of batteries after the first mistake of leaving them in there for a week straight. I have RC things as well, and those batteries are way more problematic. Storing the batteries out of the device isn't a big deal.

The army painter target lock laser works fine if you're good about battery care. Can we get a pic of the X thing? I bet if you send that pic to army painter they'll help you out.

A quick googling shows that this is being talked about on the FFG forums. Here's some things I found:

u/anotherisanother · 6 pointsr/woodworking

If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.

MINIMUM TOOL LIST

$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package

$592 Subtotal

NICE TO HAVE

$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book

$63 Subtotal

WORKBENCH

$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy

$185 Subtotal

GRAND TOTAL

$840

u/trip42 · 14 pointsr/boardgames

Tools/Materials:

  • straight edge metal ruler - http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-ASE-24-Anodized-Aluminum-Straight/dp/B002C29SG6
  • couple of cheap razor knives - http://www.amazon.com/SKILCRAFT-MR-1097-Utility-Knife--18mm/dp/B00JWTQ25C
  • a cutting surface ( you could use an old piece of cardboard or wood, but I use a cutting mat ) - http://www.amazon.com/DAFA-Professional-Self-Healing-Double-Sided-Introductory/dp/B00P6KPKB8
  • Tacky Glue - http://www.amazon.com/ALEENES-15599-Purpose-Glue-8-Ounce/dp/B00178KLEY
  • Sewing pins - http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Quilters-Pins-4-Inch-Count/dp/B001UAJ776
  • Foam core

    You find all of these supplies at Walmart.

    As far as an approach, for some games I've used existing plans (Castles of Burgundy, Descent), but others I haven't found plans or didn't like the plans others had.

    When creating my own plans I use the following process.

  • Play the game a few times, determine what pieces are only used at setup and what pieces you need throughout the game. If there are pieces every player gets one of, or shares, etc.
  • I group the pieces into logical sets based on the above conditions and try to visualize how they might fit in the box as a set of setup and in-game "trays"
  • Then I cut a base out of my foam core the size of the bottom of the box. Warning, twice I've started my insert using the lid of the box and not the bottom and the pieces didn't fit!
  • I layout my pieces on this base and decide how to sub-divide the base into the various "trays". Sometimes, like the player trays in this set I decide to make dual layer trays so I account for that.
  • I then cut the base into bottoms for each tray.
  • Cut sides to the right height based on the height of the box.
  • With the sides cut I'll glue the sides to the base using the sewing pins to hold the pieces in place while the glue dries. Pins are like clamps for foam core.
  • With that done I'll organize the pieces in each tray and create the necessary dividers. For cards and small tiles it's useful to leave gaps in the dividers so that you can get your fingers down into the tray when removing the pieces.
  • Once that's done I make any upper level trays using the same process.

    Having good spacial awareness helps to visual how the components will fit. My insert for Agricola took forever to figure out how to fit the pieces in a useful way. That game is dense.
u/oldneckbeard · 1 pointr/woodworking

I will say that he's going to be limited with that workspace, but he can get by with some basic stuff. I also have extremely limited space. I have an outdoor shop space, but since it's not insulated and has no power, I'm very limited in what I can do.

However, here's a good list of things to get.

  1. Corded circular saw. I highly recommend this makita saw, it's a good value.
  2. Metal-body combination square
  3. Basic chisels
  4. Workbench with clamps
  5. Pull-cut dovetail saw -- can also be used for most short-depth cutting work. I use it to cut (or clean up) tenons as well
  6. Glue. Lots of glue. I like Titebond II for not particular reason.
  7. As many clamps as your remaining budget can afford. These irwin ones are always popular, work well, and are cheap enough.

    Keep in mind that father's day is coming up soon, and tools like these are popular things to be put on sale. Keep your eyes open :)

u/PostPostModernism · 3 pointsr/Pyrography

I just did this floor plan on a box lid and yeah straight lines suck.

First, I would suggest drawing everything in pencil with a ruler. I always do this - not sure if others do or not.

Second, there are two ways you can do the lines. Free hand can work if you take your time, but it's always going to give you a little waviness unless you're very good. The other way is to get a steel ruler with a cork backing (something like this). Set that right next to your pencil line and you have a guide for your burner to run along.

Practice!

What burner are you using? I just use the Walnut hollow Versa Tool which isn't too elaborate or expensive, but the rheostat for the temperature can help a lot. I think /u/smolderingdesigns uses the same tool, and she does way better work than me. There are much nicer tools out there, but I wouldn't say they're a requirement to do good work.

u/b1g_bake · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Z-wave is solid. It may not be "open" but they keep standards. That means devices work as they are supposed to across various controllers. Now there are some more exotic things that don't work everywhere. Like the Homeseer switches get some extra functionality when using Homeseer controller. Speaking of Homeseer, they have a rep that is active in this sub as well as reps from GE/Jasco and Innovelli. All three are great, and very helpful around here.

​

I also like using a RTL-SDR usb dongle to grab the 433mhz signals(using rtl_433) from my acurite temp/humidity sensor. That's an open RF band and is easy to parse the data into json and send via mqtt to home assistant. People use that bit of software and hardware to grab RF data from a bunch of products that are never gonna end up in the smart home section of the store.

u/ZedHunter666 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.

> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
>
Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
>
Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
>
Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
>
A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
>
Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

u/eddyathome · 3 pointsr/PennStateUniversity

If you have about $60 you could just buy them and have some tools that will serve you well as a renter and then you could help out your friends (and maybe get free beers or food off them).

I think you mean a stud finder.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

It's less than ten bucks.

An adjustable wrench is about the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-23002-6-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B00FFUPS98/

For a cordless rechargeable you're talking about $40 for this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Variable-Position-Masterworks-MW316/dp/B07CR1GPBQ/


I know you said borrow, but if you're renting it's good to have some basic tools for stuff like this and it's an investment to be honest. If you honestly can't get anyone to help, I already have the stud finder (metal detector), and wrench. It would be an excuse for me to finally get a drill. Let me know if nothing else works out.

u/shiner_man · 3 pointsr/Guitar

I think it's wiser to learn how to properly setup a guitar on your own. It's not as difficult as many people think and only requires a few amount of tools. Here's what I use:

  • Feeler Gauge
  • Allen Wrench Set
  • String Winder
  • Screwdrivers
  • Capo
  • Precision Ruler

    That's basically it. You don't really need anything else unless you are getting into advanced guitar repair stuff like fretwork or wiring and the like (in which case I would advise you do take it to a pro unless you know what you're doing).

    Total cost = $39.93 That's cheaper than any professional guitar setup I know of.

    From there you just have learn how to do simple things like neck adjustments, intonation, string height, and pickup height. You can find out how to do all of this stuff with a simple search on youtube.

    The advantages of doing it yourself are plentiful. You can find out exactly what relief you like in the neck and exactly what type of action you like on your strings. Professional setups just setup the guitars the way they think they should be setup which isn't always the way you would want to do it.

    Also, my guitars go out of whack with the seasons as the neck can fluctuate with the temperature and other things. Rather than pay another x amount of dollars to get it setup again, you can just set it back to the way you original set it up.

    TL;DR Learn to setup a guitar yourself. It's better.

    EDIT: You need a tuner too. For some reason I just think every guitar player has one of these already.
u/MattyH · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've built 2 sets of very similar shelvles. My notes:

Make the shelves 8' between the uprights so you don't have to cut out the notches. (or cut the length to whatever the "between" length is).

You need some joists running from front to back to keep the OSB from sagging. Every 2 feet would be fine, but go every 16" for a super super sturdy shelf that can hold really heavy stuff without sagging.

I'd use 1/2" plywood instead of the OSB, though the OSB would work fine (but only with the joists). Plywood is stronger and more stable over time. May not be an issue.

Circ saw is the tool for the job. And a speed square

The other tool for the job is a cordless screw gun/drill to drive the screws. Corded would work too, just not nearly as easy. Use deck screws and no predrilling required.

If you're wanting some new tools, I highly recommend Ryobi's lithium-ion cordless stuff that is common in hardware stores these days. The little cordless circ saw and drill could knock this out easily. I've ripped plenty of plywood with the circ saw, surprising myself how well it works.

Regardless of brand, if you're getting a circ saw, get one that shoots a laser out of the front on the cutting line. Allows you to cut quite straight lines freehanding it.

Have fun!

u/Waitwhatwtf · 3 pointsr/Fitness

Cereal - retarded o'calories
Fast food - retarded o'calories

What you're going to need to bag an Adonis:

  • Tailor's tape

  • Food scale

  • This, or on whatever your boat floats

  • Patience

    I went from 250 - 200 in about 3 months by simply cutting out carbs entirely. Ketogenic diets can definitely help speed the process along, but you may find that chocolate cravings will replace penis cravings, so watch out for the backlash from hijacking a Hostess truck and devouring its contents wholesale.

    It's been said before, but read the FAQ.
    Use the food scale to help you plan accordingly to the nutritional data given by what you eat. Compare grams to grams. Boom, head shot.

    Measuring yourself with the tape is a much better metric than using a scale, in my opinion. Scales don't account for water weight or how full/empty your stomach was last time/is now.

    You can't out-exercise a shitty diet. Say that to yourself every time you go to eat something you shouldn't. You can have a treat when you're getting dicked by the type of guy you want. But then cut out the bullshit and get back to work. Beauty takes maintenance.

    Despite your desire for wanting cock, I highly recommend you exercise. Being healthy is a good thing. You may feel you have missed out X years, but health allows you to extend your life that much further. It's probably not as good, but getting in the habit now allows you to get boned by the old guys in your convalescent home.

    Your tits are probably going to sag. I'm just saying that now to mentally prepare you. I don't know what you look like, but I'm sure they're going to have a bit of sway that is unwelcome. I'm balding; we all have our flaws. On the bright side, I never have to pay for a hair cut again. I don't know what the silver lining is for saggy tits, but I'm sure you can figure it out. You're a smart person.
u/nickstandard · 1 pointr/woodworking
  1. First off, there is a ridiculous science behind this topic, so I would do research as much as possible before takeling this. I learned from the plethora of You Tube videos from well known woodworkers and trial and error.
  2. There are many ways to do it, and this is what I have been doing and it works for me.
  3. Your first question - That all depends on how much $$ you have. For example, I do not have a lot of $, but fortunately, my basement is dryer than most. I live on a slight hill that only gets water during a hurricane (Hurricane Sandy) and my power went out so the sump pump wasn’t working. I have a nice $100 LG dehumidifier down there. Only a quarter of my walls are moisture sealed with kilz ( I built my shop prior to KILZing the walls), so the relative humidity is at constant 40-45%, which according to the chart should give me a MC of about 7-10% which is absolutely perfect in my eyes. And that is proven with a MC meter.

    General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qASta5WqyE9xo

    But this is bad if I get my wood wet (maybe over 25% MC would be considered wet). So I f I get it wet, it stays in my garage until it dips below 20%. Ambient air humidity where i live is (NE USA outside PHILA) about 15%. Once it dips below 20%, I move it into my basement. None of my projects (as of now) will be stored or placed outside. If it was an outdoor project, I would imagine outside is where I would be storing/ working on my of the projects. But since I do indoor work, I move the wood into the basement to be stored at the right time. Then when the MC gets below 10% I generally will work with it, depending on the species and my time table, and whether or not the are paying me (hahaha). Obviously, if I brought it down to the basement to quickly, that’s when problems happen.... but to me, woodworking is more about learning. how to fix your mistakes. So if there was checking or warping, knowing how to fix it, or hide it is crucial. Sometimes hiding a mistake can make the workpiece even better. Bear in mind, that I do not have a big basement so I do not work with big pieces. Big pieces I would imagine are harder to maintain and harder to hide mistakes.

  4. In a perfect world, you would store the wood in the place the workpiece we placed for the rest of its life, but that could be years of storage and it impractical. The general rule of thumb is 1 year for every inch of thickness, but I have gotten them dryer, quicker than this rule and some experts will tell you that this rule is also fubar. If I was working with an expensive species, and do want to take any risks, then I would live by this rule in order to not make the slab go to waste. But I am not confident enough yet to handle that type of project without error, and I don’t have the $ to buy them yet. Generally speaking, once the species it at the proper MC (I would say 5%-8%, it ain’t moving, and you can work with it. I would assume most houses with air conditioning in the summer should be below 10% humidity.

  5. Then there comes a whole other science of finishing, which is an animal in itself, I am in the middle of self teaching. I wouldn’t be a good person to tell you about finishing yet, so don’t ask... but I know if finished correctly, there should be minimal moisture exchange as the right finish should create a wall between the wood and the atmosphere, which will not allow the exchange. I could tell you what I use to prevent this (finish wise) but I do not know what kind of species you are working with nor the RAH of where you are and the RAH of where the project will be. And even if I did, I wouldn’t be a great source.

    I have an ongoing set of playlists on my YouTube that has helped me, one is one wood drying. If I remember led to save the video to this playlist after I watched it, then the good information is stored there...

    Here is the link...

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7Ur9yvX0sMRw1UhH9CYeIcyAhW8pVRHq

    Feel free to check out the rest of the playlists. I am still in an ongoing process of adding to them.

    BTW - you will never get the MC to 0% with standard drying techniques. As long as earth has an atmosphere and there are oceans, there will be MC in wood. this to me seems completely unnecessary and impractical, although I am sure someone will argue with that cause woodworking is very dynamic and full of opinions! Hope this helps!!
u/Trisa133 · 6 pointsr/DIY
  1. Buy a good stud finder, it can detect other stuff as well, and check for clearance. This is the best and easiest to use stud finder I have ever used. Here

  2. If you have the proper clearance, then cut the wall with a drywall hand saw.

  3. Use some 2x4 or whatever cheap wood you have available to nail the support beam. You can easily shoot a nail at an angle to connect it between 2 studs. Do the bottom support and top as well.

  4. Install the cabinet and secure it with screws. You really only need 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Or if you're flush the the studs on the side, you can screw it to the side. That's the easiest route.

  5. Now finish it with drywall joint compound to fill the gaps. Then caulk the gaps. Paint.

    Now if you don't have the clearance. Your only way to do it is is to build a frame around it so you hide the unfinished part. But personally, I'd just get another one that's in in-wall.
u/drucius · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

the buy it for life crowd will always argue for superior quality and buying a good tool. However another random redditor once summarized a different pragmatic:
"Buy a cheap tool, if it does the job you win. If you use it enough to break it you now are justified on buying the good version that might last you a lifetime."
I love harbor freight for economy cheap hand tools.

My exception is buy a good drill/driver. My current house might be close to 50% held together by work from my Milwaukee at this point.

Other tools no one mentioned that will come in handy: Outlet tester/live circuit detector, A stud finder, a set of allen wrenches.

u/RenegadeX21 · 0 pointsr/cade

You might benefit from using one of these.

The right side of the bezel looks like it is cutting off part of the screen (vis: barrels).
That said, it looks great! Love the metal accents. T-molding & Paint will really make it look great.

Consider making something to fill in the gap on the top. As others have mentioned, a marquee might/speakers (speaking of, where is sound coming from, now?) would be a good choice.

u/niceflipflop · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If you're willing to spend some money and you think you'll have more use for a good stud finder that actually works, get one of these.

I went through several finders in my 1940 brick colonial before finally trying the Franklin. I love that thing. It's not magic, but it finds so many studs that no others could. Just the way it lets you visualize the object it's detecting is immensely helpful in quickly determining whether you've got a false positive.

I can't promise you it'll help you sort out that wood paneling wall. But if any finder can detect the studs, it's the Franklin.

Good luck!

u/NovembersHorse · 2 pointsr/boardgames

That sticky is exactly what you need. I would add that a ruler that has a non-slip/cork back on it is essential for your sanity. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Ruler-18-Cork-Back/dp/B003W0R8EG

Also, perfection is nice, but mine are super wonky and still work. After I've made them I never look at the detail again. You can make them fairly quickly and with some nice zen if you are okay with "happy little accidents"...

u/saroka · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Thanks for running this!!

reddit raffle phrase gifting is fun.

Crazy Japanese thingy on my Main. ($5.99)

Basil seeds on my Main. ($2.47)

Sunglasses on my Main. ($3.15)

Nail polish top coat on my Polish. ($4.44)

Tape measure on my Hobbies. ($3.39)

Totaling... $19.44!

Edit:

I'm curious to see what other combination I can do with just stuff for apartments. XD

Santoku knife on my Prep. ($7.04)

Baking spoons on my Prep. ($6.03)

Collapsible measuring cup on my Prep. ($7.81)

Totaling... $20.88

Blegh, it's a lot harder with apartment stuff. XD

u/skwolf522 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If you are driving alot of screws get a good driver with Torx or square bits. Phillips or flat head screws should be outlawed.

I have tons of 18 volt tools. But 90% of the time I use my 12 volt stuff. It is lighter and plenty strong enough for most all jobs I throw at it.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tools-2598-22-Hammer/dp/B077ZXR2GN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=milwaukee+m12+fuel&qid=1563798041&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Get a good tool bag, To keep all your tools organized.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DG5543-Inch-Tradesmans-Tool/dp/B001P30BO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+tool+bag&qid=1563036747&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

This little screwdriver is my most used electrical tool.

It will take off a faceplate in seconds without scratching it.

https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=klien+screwdriver+fast&qid=1563037724&s=gateway&sr=8-7

​

This works great also.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-9-IN-1-RATCHET-BIT-DRIVR/dp/B07N2XRJKN/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3S4QWUWTNOHH0&keywords=milwaukee+ratchet+screwdriver&qid=1563797885&s=gateway&sprefix=milwauke+ratchet+%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-5

​

These work great as stud finders, not sure how they build your houses but in america we have 2x4 wooden studs behind our walls every 16-24". This is a strong magnet that finds the studs by finding the screws that attach the drywall to the wooden studs.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

If you are moving any water lines or doing any plumbing look in to Pex, It is very easy to do and you can same alot of plumbing costs.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-Crimper-Stainless-Clamps/dp/B019DPYQZM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=LGQIZBR2PEXY&keywords=pex+crimping+tool&qid=1563798123&s=gateway&sprefix=pex+crimp%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4

​

If you are moving your toilet, look in to a wall mount. They are very modern and save you a lot of room.

u/tecnic1 · 1 pointr/bmx

Checking your chain alignment is really really easy.

Get a ruler. Metric is preferable, but if all you have is inches, we can work with that. However, if it's an inch ruler, this is going to be a lot harder. I have one of these. I use it for a lot of stuff, and you can get them almost anywhere, so I would recommend you get one.

Measure from the center of your seat tube to the inside edge of your sprocket. The more precise you measure, the better your chainline will end up, but at a minimum, you need to measure to the nearest 1mm (or 1/32 inch). Write that number down. We'll call this dimension S.

Now measure from the inside of your dropout to the inside of the driver teeth, again to the nearest 1mm (1/32 inch). White that number down. We'll call this dimension D.

Finally, add S and D together. If you used inches, you need to convert fractional inches to decimal inches, then convert the inches to mm. Don't be scared, Google will do it for you.

For a perfect chainline, S+D=55. If it's less, add spacers between the sprocket and the frame to make up the difference.

For example, suppose you measured your sprocket at 42mm, and your driver at 12mm. That's 54mm, so add a 1mm spacer.

If S+D is greater than 55, remove spacers. You might get in trouble with stuff hitting your chainstays though.

By the way, 55mm is 1/2 the width of the hub (BMX hub spacing is 110mm). We are just using the inside of the dropout as a reference plane to measure the distance from the driver to the centerline of the bike. If you have a driveside hubguard, you need to subtract that thickness from the D measurement.

I hope that helps.

u/Kshennya · 4 pointsr/keto

Not DIY, but I use this [measurement tape] (https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/ref=sr_1_3_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1522175438&sr=1-3&keywords=body+measurement+tape). Several brands like it on there. It allows for a MUCH easier experience than a flexible measuring tape like for sewing because you put the "peg" into the holder to make a "loop" bigger than you need, then push the button and it tightens down to fit you... then you read it! I track measurements 1x a month in MFP. Not as cheap, but user friendly.

u/DadmiralAckbar · 1 pointr/DIY

Do yourself a solid and buy a stud finder. The magnet kind is too cheap not to. This one at Amazon is $7 and is great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479919614&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=magnetic+stud+finder

Also, it's smart to double check what your finder tells you before actually trying to screw anything. I usually use a finish nail to probe the spot and be sure that there is actually a stud where I think there is. You never know what craziness is going on behind drywall and if you were wrong, it's super easy to repair a finish nail hole.

Good luck!

u/TheBruceDickenson · 5 pointsr/OffGrid

If you don't have the wood yet you might be in a pinch. I burn wood to heat our house all winter, but definitely not anywhere near -30c. How much wood depends on the type of wood. Each species has a different BTU rating. Some burn hot and fast others are low and slow. I tend to use both. I like Poplar to get the stove warm and Oak to bank it all night.

​

I cut my own wood but if you don't you will need to be careful of sellers saying it is seasoned. A true seasoned piece of wood will be cut and split (generally) for a year. Some sellers will cut and split in the late spring/early summer and try to sell it in the winter. That won't cut it for most guys burning wood. I highly suggest investing into an inexpensive moisture meter. Split a piece of any wood that you are buying and test it. I try to burn at 20% or less.



Also, it might be really helpful for you to get a wall mounted propane heater. They are inexpensive (under $150 at the local big box store or on Amazon). Keep it on a thermostat to kick on if the wood fire goes out. Really helpful on punishing days. If you get the smaller 100 lb tanks you can take them to the filling station and have them filled cheaper than delivery.


Oh and get a carbon monoxide detector. If need to make sure you have enough fresh air in your house to support your wood burning stove and your ability to breathe!


​

Wood Heat Value Comparison Chart

u/WillowWagner · 2 pointsr/keto

If you're trying to keep burning fat, you absolutely need to keep that deficit. If you're lifting, keep it up. If you're not, start, even with just resistance bands. Also keep moving. Walk a lot. And get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y or get a soft fabric tape measure and write down your measurements. A stall is a month or more with no change in ANY physical measurement. IIRC Jimmy Moore once went 10 weeks with no weight loss, but he lost 6 inches at his waist at the same time, back when he first did Atkins.

At this point it's really good to stay focused on the process and on how well you feel. The external rewards aren't going to come as fast, so enjoy your steak and butter, and celebrate every tiny gain.

u/chorkea · 1 pointr/xxfitness

A year ago I was in your position - 21, 5'5" and 240 pounds. Now I weigh 145 (still trying to build muscle)!

You have already received tonssssss of great advice but I thought I'd let you know, from someone who was basically in your position, that this is possible and you can do it! Here is my 2 cents:

  • You discuss working out, and it sounds like you have been keeping it up for about 6 weeks, so that is a really good start. Don't play down your accomplishments by saying it hasn't been that long. Take the advice here on workouts and keep it up, as it is good for your health. Personally, I enjoy running or doing bodyweight fitness because I don't have good access to a gym, but do what works for you! However, note that weight loss is mostly diet, not exercise!

  • In terms of diet, here again, you have good suggestions. I went the MyFitnessPal calorie counting route and that has worked well for me. No restrictions on what you eat, though you will end up eating healthier to be fuller. This also allows you to understand how much you are cheating. If I have some sort of special occasion and eat 250 extra calories I can see how much this effects me in the long run, whereas in the past I may have said "well I ate 2 cookies so now I'm doomed forever and may as well eat all this ice cream." Take baby steps. You may even want to start by simply logging what you eat rather than restricting it.

  • In terms of progress. You are right not to focus on the scale. Still "feeling yourself getting tighter" might not be a very objective standard of measurement either. Use one of these to measure yourself accurately and take periodic progress pictures. Losing a lot of weight is difficult to comprehend. I still picture myself about how I probably looked at 180ish, and even that has taken a long time. You will need these in the future to truly understand how far you have come!
u/boatsnlowes · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I have a cheap old Delta 10” miter saw that cuts great 45s with the following setup.

Use a digital angle finder to set the bevel and angle. I don’t trust the built in detents or bevel gauge. It also helps with squaring the fences.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00563TM32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s8HvCbWY8TNCC

When cutting smaller pieces, a zero clearance fence really helps get a precise cut. You can align the work piece to the kerf line in the fence to get an exact cut. I replicated the one in this video.

https://youtu.be/UjB1UpNqY2k

I also use a middle of the road Diablo 60 tooth blade in the saw for cleaner cuts. I keep a 40 tooth in the table saw and also have an 80 on hand for really fine work. Both saws are 10” so I can move the blades between them if necessary.

Good luck, I spent a lot of time building scrap frames practicing 45s. Decent corner or band clamps are also a must have for assembly!

u/Tanarad · 1 pointr/woodworking

I actually already have an empire 12 inch already but it's like a degree off. Yeah the starrett ones are sweet but really pricey. I think I may as well invest in it, if I can only afford one would this be a good option?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CSBNO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_bWABub16GPKRE

Or should I go with the other style?

Ooh and the saw is an old Atkins I don't really know much about it. It's like three feet long I think.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/loseit

what i do for motivation is make me a weight chart in excel. in one column i have the date i weight myself on and in the other column is what I should be weighing for the week. This way I can know exactly how much I'll weigh and by what date I will be getting there. I try to shoot for 2lbs a week weight loss as that's pretty good progress and keeps me more motivated. A weekly cheat is OK as long as you plan to make up for it by eating less later on. I visit my parents on the weekend so my weekends are basically cheat days, but I try not to go too overboard still. I also had a cheat week where I made no progress (vacation) but I still kept on trucking. You'll have your ups and downs, try to focus more on the positive effects of your efforts and don't dwell on it if you gain a pound one week.

Also I would recommend tape measure and calipers. This way you'll know when you lose fat vs just water weight fluctuations on the scale (the scale can fluctuate at least 5lbs).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G7YW7Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QURRUK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Set your goals, try to achieve them every week, and keep track of your measurements! Stick to healthy foods, while you can lose weight eating fried foods you have to eat less of them for this to happen, than say, a salad. You can eat a lot of salad and not have it impact your calories for the day.

Protein is also important. Protein will keep you full longer! Meat, eggs.

Avoid excessive carbs but a piece of bread here and there doesn't hurt too much as long as it's under your goal. Don't expect to be able to fill up on bread though.

If you don't reach your goal for the week then you need to adjust the amount of calories you are eating! Eating less food vs eating more isn't going to kill you (as long as you only lose 2lbs per week and not any more!)

In the beginning you should see a lot of progress, then you'll level out and it will become harder to lose weight as you reach your goal. Adjust your calories then and don't get discouraged!

Good luck on your weight loss journey.

u/reverselookup · 1 pointr/4hourbodyslowcarb

You will get some amazing results. I got this body meauring tape for my measurements (waist, chest, arms, thighs, etc). These are the metrics you will pay attention to. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G7YW7Y?pc_redir=1405521762&robot_redir=1.

Good luck my friend. I want to hear your progress.

u/Arlorn · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Awesome info! Yeah I hate to admit it but I'm just not sure how good I'll be at doing them by hand, but I'd love to know its me and not the tools if I fail lol. So I'm glad you told me what you started with. What do you think of this as a marking gauge? iGaging Wheel Marking Gauge

u/Lunulae · 1 pointr/DIY

YMMV but I have one of these, and while it definitely will magnetize itself to a screw you have to have faith that the people who put up your drywall got all the screws nicely into the middle of the stud. The people who built my house definitely didnt. The studs arent all perfectly 16 inches on centre either. After using this while mounting a large tv and putting a bunch of unnecessary holes in our walls to find the studs we bought a sensor one it made sense for us to pay the extra for peace of mind because we were renovating and hanging a bunch of heavy things though

u/Kittenmittons91 · 1 pointr/loseit

Measurements are so motivating! And sometimes a better metric than the scale, just because your actual weight can be influenced by so many things. I do mine once a month and they're always super encouraging. I'm down almost 20 pounds and I don't really see a difference in the mirror, but my measuring tape promises I'm getting smaller.

I got this puppy from Amazon for less than $5 shipped and it's made measuring a lot easier and more accurate.

u/soonerborn23 · 18 pointsr/HomeImprovement

depends on what diy goals you have in mind. What I find myself using 80+% of the time when I am doing home diy stuff is some combo of the following.....

u/HomesteaderWannabe · 1 pointr/myweatherstation

Hey thanks for the quick response! Okay, so here's what I'm looking at ordering. If you could comment that it has all the right components for what you have set up, or if I'm missing anything, or if anything is unnecessary, I'd really appreciate the input!

Here's my shopping cart:

u/zerostyle · 2 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

As little as possible. The more crap you have, the more it weighs you down.
That said, every home needs some necessities to get by. For me those generally involve cooking, sleeping, and repairs. I just finished watching Parks & Rec and am in a bit of a Ron Swanson mood.

For the kitchen (all recommended by America's Test Kitchen):

Victorinox 8" Chef's Knife

Victorinox Paring knife

CDN Instant Read Thermometer

Lodge 12" skillet - cheap and will last you forever

Crockpot, 6qt - the one kitchen appliance I'd cheat with. Easy delicious meals. Toss in a cheap cut of meat (chuck roast, etc), salt, pepper, garlic, onions, carrots, whatever. Let it sit for 6-8 hours. Dinner for 3 meals.

Tools:

I'd probably just pick up a cheap set of craftsman stuff (screwdrivers, hammer, sockets, pliers). Splurge on the ratchet and any power tools you need:

Bahco 3/8" ratchet - same as snapon F80 at 1/2 the price

Other misc. tools that are quite handy:

Magnetic stud finder - in a new place you're going to be hanging pictures, installing shelving, and mounting curtain rods. These are dirt cheap and super convenient.

Multimeter - Flukes will last you for life. If you need to do any electrical work, these are great. If you don't want to splurge up front just borrow them or buy a cheap $15 one at home depot.

Bedroom:

Get comfortable pillows and nice sheets. Don't get all caught up in the 1000 thread count crap, it's a hoax. Just get at least 400tc or so, and preferably egyptian or pima cotton. My favorite sheets are actually a super cheapo brand that are 60% cotton 40% polyester. I prefer them because they feel more "smooth and cool" rather than "soft and warm".

Obviously get real furniture: dresser, bed with headboard, etc.

Electronics

I won't go into too much detail here, but consider cutting the cord (/r/cordcutters).

A cheap Roku3 + netflix + an OTA antenna can go a long way.

If you have a lot of pictures/media/etc, don't forget about backups. I'd look into an inexpensive NAS, or at least a USB harddrive. They are dirt cheap and worth the insurance.

Insurance

Lastly, don't forget renters or homeowners insurance. If you are renting, you can get rather good coverage for quite cheap. I just paid around $50 for 12 months of coverage on my apartment ($15k coverage, $1k deductible). I shopped around at 5 different places and Amica came out the cheapest by FAR.

Other than that, you don't need much. Buy less crap. Don't buy some $50 automatic electronic wine opener when a $1 wine key will do the job. Same for a can opener.

u/Blackeye30 · 4 pointsr/Leathercraft

The tandy beginner set is geared towards tooling, which certainly does require veg tan. Depending on whether or not that's the aesthetic you are going for, you may not need the swivel knife and stamps (or you may want many more stamps). But at it's core, you need:

  • Something to measure with (metal ruler)

  • Something very sharp to cut with (Utility knife / Rotary Cutter / Round/Head knife)

  • Something to attach pieces together (Contact Cement + either Rivets or Waxed Thread/Harness Needles)

    And a slight step above that is something to finish edges (acrylic edge paint, water/gum tragacanth/wax etc.)

    I personally do not do a lot of tooling, and also usually use stitching (vs rivets), so if I were going to recommend some starting tools I would say

  • Cork-backed Metal Ruler
  • Seiwa Pricking Irons

  • Ritza Tiger Thread

  • John James Harness Needles

  • Olfa Rotary Cutter

  • Wing Divider (used to mark stitch lines)

  • Contact Cement
  • Some variety of beeswax or paraffin, I like this stuff

  • Some scrap pieces of canvas and soft cotton for burnishing an edge (old jeans and t-shirts work great)
  • Some Misc. items you probably already have like sandpaper and super glue from time to time.

    Edit: I didn't include an awl because the Seiwa irons are designed to punch through, but a good diamond awl from Bob Douglas/Barry King or similar would probably be my first upgrade to this set of tools.
u/riggawaggel · 4 pointsr/Brooklyn

I actually don't know, but if you just need basic truss rod/action adjustments, I would recommend learning to do it yourself. It's really not that hard and the tools can be found at any local hardware store. Adjust in this order:

Truss Rod: You will need Feeler Gauges and a Capo on the first fret. press down with one had on the low E on the fret where the neck meets the body and stick a feeler gauge (.010") between the fret and the E string halfway between the first fret and the one you are pressing (usually 8th or 9th). Adjust the truss rod until the gap allows the gauge to slide in without pushing the string, and with no residual gap. The truss rod section of this page is good.

Bridge Height: You need a 6" Steel Ruler to measure the strings to your comfort, around 5/64's of an inch on the low E and 4/64's on the high e measured at the 17th fret. Adjust the bridge height with a screwdriver or allen wrenches as applicable.

Nut Height: You'll need your feeler gauges again and nut files that match the gauge of each string. You may be able to find a cheap alternative in a hardware store. As a rule of thumb, any tool branded as a luthier tool probably has a dirt cheap exact alternative at your local hardware store. Nuts should be filed down so that the string lays in halfway in the groove, halfway over the top. Bottom of the trough should be filed down to be .010" from the top of the first fret (use the feeler gauge).

Intonation: quoting from that fender link i posted above
>Set the pickup selector switch in the middle position, and turn the volume and tone controls to their maximum settings. Check tuning. Check each string at the 12th fret, harmonic to fretted note (make sure you are depressing the string evenly to the fret, not the fingerboard). If sharp, lengthen the string by adjusting the saddle back. If flat, shorten the string by moving the saddle forward. Remember, guitars are tempered instruments! Re-tune, play and make further adjustments as needed.

skipping the nut height isn't the end of the world if you dont want to shell out for the files.

Edit: oh and pretty much any tool has a high quality demo video on stewmac.com so check those out.

u/World-Wide-Web · 10 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

you have to call for exchanges but then they give you free shipping. Not such a bad trade off.

As far as fit goes, I agree with /u/2takeke below, every piece of clothing has its own size chart listed. Figure out your measurements and you'll never have any more issues with "odd" or "inconsistent" sizes.

u/bettygauge · 1 pointr/videos

You only need a mark for the beginning and the end of the line. Once those are marked, it's best to use a straight edge like this or this.

Bill was using a triangular scale which are really common in the engineering fields.

It is and it isn't, drafting is still taught in most schools as an introduction to CAD to understand the drawing standards. All the engineering programs I've seen stick with CAD or 3D modeling but architectural programs still like hand drawn models.

u/cbsteven · 1 pointr/homeowners

Thanks for the diagram, that's interesting.

This studfinder uses super strong magnets to detect the screws/nails, and actually sticks to them through the drywall. It's this thing. Seems to work great.. and that's the only spot it picks up any metal.

u/AnacondaPython · 1 pointr/EDC

I modified my setup a bit, to accodomodate feedback from other people and to see what works best for me

Somebody suggest to use this knife:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's my new setup:

RIGHT FRONT POCKET


Any dynomighty wallet, just pick a design

https://www.dynomighty.com/categories/

Car keys (whatever your carkeys are). If you want a USB stick added on to your keys, use a Micro-HDMI for low profile and convenience

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBGYGPG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LEFT FRONT POCKET


Iphone6, Samsung S6, etc etc. Whatever floats your boat

Pick a small battery charger, search for it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=portable+battery+charger&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aportable+battery+charger

Get a retractable cable for your charger if you need too (low profile)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Gold-Plated-Retractable-Micro-USB/dp/B00SVVY844/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558782&sr=8-4&keywords=USB+retractable+cable


JEAN COIN POCKET (on front right pocket)


That gerber fold up knife https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RIGHT MOST JEAN STRAP ( was the front right before)


Carbiner

https://www.amazon.com/LeBeila-Carabiner-Aluminum-Locking-Keychain/dp/B013NNG18U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558280&sr=8-1&keywords=carabiner

duck tape

Tape planet had the cheapest prices at $1.54 each

http://www.tapeplanet.com/Mini-Rainbow-Duck-Tape-Duckling-p/stdtpl-282322.htm

BACK LEFT POCKET


Measuring tape. This one has the lowest profile so it doesn't hurt to sit on, 10' is good enough for almost everything

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot--4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558504&sr=8-7&keywords=measuring+tape

BACK RIGHT POCKET


Get sticky notes, I suggest highland brand 3"x3" since it works for nearly everything you might need sticky notes. I suggest getting both, alternate colors by day

Plain yellow:

https://www.amazon.com/Post--Markers-Assorted-Bright-670-10AB/dp/B007QFATEO/ref=sr_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558871&sr=1-6&keywords=sticky+notes

Color:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OCPJK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, get a sharpie too. Fine points are good

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-Point-Black/dp/B00006IFHD/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558955&sr=1-1&keywords=sharpie

Alternatively or ultra fine

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-37001WM-Permanent-Marker-12-Pack/dp/B00006IFI3/ref=pd_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=08FBBP33PZV82ZY7AT41


--------------

that's my current setup

u/SocksForBreakfast · 3 pointsr/woodworking

One of these amazing rulers would be a great gift too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4P-I8b2rxs

A thread about them recently blew up on this subreddit. The 12" is only $15 on amazon http://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE12-12-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U7/

u/free_sex_advice · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The two things that jump out are the downspout on the right and the windows. It's a bit difficult to tell how the roof goes there, but it looks pretty tricky and then that downspout appears to dump water right on the tricky spot - all of the downspouts need short extensions to get the water away from the corners.

Also, where the end of the gutter is right up against the side of the house. Is the gutter cap well sealed? Does the siding run behind it or did they gutter first then cut the siding around the gutter?

The windows look nice with the wide flat white area around them, but what material is that? How is it flashed to the top of the lower window, how is the upper window flashed to it? It's really difficult to build out a detail like that and make it waterproof.

You'll know more if you can figure out how high up the leak is - yes, the water can very easily move down through the wall. A moisture meter is inexpensive. Read the sheetrock inside just above the baseboard where the water is worst. Read the wall up the side of the window trim on both windows. You may get a clue from that.

It's a bit more money, but you can get Flir 1 for your cell phone - iPhone linked, but there's an Android one too. Take a look at the walls from inside and the ceiling and the side walls of that section. The moisture alone should make for cold spots, but it might be especially obvious on a cold, rainy day. Good general contractors have both moisture meters and Flir 1. Any friend that's a fireman probably has access to a Flir camera. A good home inspector has these tools. I'd offer to help, but I can tell from the architecture that you live nowhere near me.

Please update us later.

u/Cant_Spel · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Be sure to check You Tube for proper use. Just like a hand plane, card scrapers can be improperly used resulting in folks dismissing their ability. I flex mine slightly like a "U" shape and pull it towards me (paying attention to the grain so as to not dig it in).
Roamins note on quality of wood below is a good one. Soft wet pine will be difficult no matter what. You might consider purchasing some wood and letting it sit stickered (with spacers) for a while to help air it out. If you want to be completely anal about it you can test moisture content with a moisture meter which measures electrical current between 2 points through wood. http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Digital-Moisture/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321899651&sr=8-1 You’re looking for the wood to stabilize to your environment. Home Depot likely buys bulk from else ware and ships to your area meaning the wood will not only be green (recently cut) but will also be incredibly out of whack with your local humidity. This is why you see crazy warped boards at most big box stores.
Down the road you can look into buying from places with kiln dried and/or stabilized wood. I have the luck of living near a word supplier that ships all over while maintaining a store front for walk ins. Their stuff is great. http://www.woodworkerssource.com/ I suspect most larger cities have similar places (woodcraft being a large multi state business).

u/joeythenaiveone · 1 pointr/loseit

If you have Amazon Prime, this is the measuring tape I have and I love it. It's cheap, ships free (with Prime) and it's easy to get consistent measurements with.

u/physicallyuncomfort · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I purchased this guy .. but it wasn’t of much use to me.
I’m so terrified of not cutting in between the two studs and having a huge chunk missing. Do you have any specific videos to recommend?

Thank you so much for your help!

u/asiangoliath · 4 pointsr/lesbianfashionadvice

that's fantastic.

I have this one and it's pretty great: myotape

u/IMGONNAKILLRAYROMANO · 2 pointsr/DIY

I recently bought a magnetic stud finder that runs purely on a pair of magnets rather than battery. I run it in an 'S' shape across my wall and it sticks to certain areas.

Now here's the problem: What do I even do with that information? I want to hang some heavier things up (say, a mirror or something) and as far as I know you're supposed to hammer into the stud but like... if the stud finder is attaching to the metal in the frame then won't me hammering a nail into it endanger the frame? Wouldn't I be clanking right into the metal already in there? What if the thing I'm hanging needs to be attached to more than one stud and they're not close enough?

Should I mark an inch below / above / next to the spot that the stud finder attached to? How am I supposed to know that that's still part of the frame?

Ftr, this is the stud finder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/

I'm sure this is all supposed to be very obvious... google seems to think so since I can't find any real resources aside from 'stud finders help you find studs'.

Thank you!

u/andyhite · 1 pointr/woodworking

As someone who's only a few steps further into woodworking than you are, but has done an outrageous amount of research and poured every last spare minute I have into experimenting with projects in my garage over the past two months (no legit furniture projects under my belt yet, but plenty of random shop projects), don't get either of those combo sets. The circular saw and drill are useful, but the rest of the stuff is a waste of money.

Pick up a cheap drill / driver combo (by that I mean a drill that has a chuck that accepts drill bits and driver bits - something like this), some brad-point drill bits, and a cheap circular saw. Then go an aisle over and pick up a long straight-edge and a speed-square. Go a few more aisles over and pick up some wood screws and wood glue. You'll be using the glue more than the screws - in fact, you don't even need the screws - using dowels is more fun and looks nice. If you go with dowels, pick up a cheap flush cut saw and some 80/120/220-grit sandpapers also so you can clean them up. Last, walk a few more aisles over and pick up some 3/4" birch plywood (you can get the sande plywood if you have a tight budget, especially if this is a shop project). Altogether it should be just a hair over $200, if that. Then leave the big-box store and never go back.

That should be enough to put together a few beginner projects. Then, a month later, buy a Saw Stop table saw.

Just kidding about the Saw Stop, but really – you'll outgrow those tools really quick and start needing bigger / more powerful machines. Buy a table saw next (the Ridgid R4512 is a good starting place – price is pretty reasonable, and it's a decent table saw). That opens up a whole new world of possibilities, and soon your wallet will be empty but your garage will be full of toys.

u/brahelp24 · 3 pointsr/braswap

Soft measuring tapes are really cheap and sooooo worth the investment. Here's one on Amazon for less than $3 with free shipping. If you use the visual guide, it's very easy to figure it out and you only need to measure 5 things! Once you have your measurements, just post it to the subreddit and people can tell you what it means and where to start.

As someone who spent way, way too long in poor fitting bras, I cannot recommend /r/ABraThatFits enough. It literally changed my life. I'm sure other women can attest to that statement as well.

Edit: Take a look at The Bra Band Project as well. It's a real eye-opener!

u/-chrispy- · 2 pointsr/pics

+2 on this... These are great and the HDMI cable is nice... I also recommend the Magnet Stud Finder... I have one of these and love it... It sticks to the drywall screws used to hang drywall to the studs and hasn't failed me yet...

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408654238&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

u/grapecough · 1 pointr/golf

Three putts are definitely part of it...other times it’s just losing it off the tee and a random chunk on an approach shot. I wish I could pinpoint it to just one thing, but it seems like a variety of errors that creep up every week. Sometimes it’s the 3 putts, other times it’s the driver or something else.

Great idea about the putting practice at home. Do you do this on hard wood floor or carpet? Also, is this kind of ruler that you’re referring to: Empire Level 4004 48-Inch Aluminum Straight Edge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YYFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LsZkDbR9M3M9E ...?

u/Fenix159 · 1 pointr/Fitness

I see Purple_Crayon pointed you to /r/loseit, you'll find a lot of support there so that's definitely a good place to be.

Far as the pictures. Basically that. You won't see huge changes daily, but if you do weekly or every other week you'll actually be able to see differences over time and it won't be nearly as demoralizing looking at daily pictures seeing very little change.

Also I'll second Purple_Crayon's recommendation of taking measurements when you take your pictures. Pick up something like MyoTape for cheap. Really makes measurements easier.

u/grantd86 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

From the pic it's hard to tell what those walls are made out of but I still wouldn't chance just putting it anywhere and hoping for the best. Suspect that it's not the answer you want to hear but the right answer is to buy a decent studfinder. Seems like a lot for just this project but if you own a house you will use it again in the future.

The low tech route is to tap your knuckle against the wall and listen for the solid spots.

u/xmusic123 · 1 pointr/Guitar

Sorry for the double up comment, but if you're really interested in a kit, here are each of the tool's they'll give you

Feeler Gauge

Allen Wrench Set (this is actually more comprehensive)

64th inch ruler

Straight Edge (For judging neck relief/bow)

Mini Screwdrivers

String Winder (with wire cutter)

Compare to $60 dollars

$100:(http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Essential_Tool_Kits/Basic_Setup_Kit.html)


This actually seems like a solid deal, but you can get all of these at a hardware store for less and not pay for shipping and wait around for it.

u/Artfulvandelay · 8 pointsr/Carpentry

Love my Franklin.

https://www.amazon.ca/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1558914670&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Two downsides: battery cover could be redesigned as it can come loos pretty easily, does not indicate live power.

u/amcgavisk · 1 pointr/foamcore

This is what I have been using and it is great - perfect 90 degree corners and straight lines

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q0YfzbMQW2PYX

u/Hhwwhat · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

For the future, grab one of these stud finders. Run it along the wall and it will hang on the screw heads that were used to secure the drywall. Also works great in lathe and plaster houses. It's really just a strong magnet.

u/gaya2081 · 2 pointsr/keto

I really like using a tape measure Like this one . It makes measuring certain areas easier, the auto-retract tightens to "snug" so I am getting a consistent measurement and I am tighten it and keep good posture and then unloop it to read the tape measure.

u/GideonD · 1 pointr/DIY

Definitely go with the pine over the MDF. That stuff is just junk. Mitering baseboard can be a pain because your walls are seldom ever square. You need to learn how to cope the corners in if you want to have the best looking job. That said, you can indeed use the squared stock with butt joints. Just be aware that if the corners are not square you may still get some gaping. I'd invest in a digital angle finder gauge. https://smile.amazon.com/General-Tools-822-Digital-Finder/dp/B00563TM32/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504089848&sr=8-5&keywords=angle+finder to get an accurate measurement of the inside angle. Then you can get a better miter or butt joint. The problem with the square stock is that it's a dust collector since it's just a flat top. You can stack a molding on top of it later though if you decided it just isn't working to make it look more like a traditional baseboard. Squared trim will be a more modern or contemporary look compared to the colonial style trim to linked to.

u/quintios · 3 pointsr/DIY

OMGOMGOMGOMGOMG. Best $10 I ever spent. I love this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

u/pureliquidMAGA · 1 pointr/Leathercraft

Just go slow, don't use too much pressure on the blade, and don't be afraid to make multiple passes. As long as you don't shift the straight edge you will get a perfectly clean cut even with three or four passes.

Using lines on the mat will not get you the precision that you need. Use a good square and line it by feel against your already perfect edge. The hardware store square from your garage is probably not actually square enough. Make plenty of layout marks with a sharp scratch awl. Look into the Incra t-square, it's very handy for parallels.

Also here's a method which I haven't tried yet but wish I knew about long ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JAPRs6tx2w

u/YosemiteThrowaway123 · 6 pointsr/battlestations

Ya I love this guy and this stud finder. Made an amazing doggy door through my wall to the side of the house for a dog potty area, only took a couple days with the right tools.

u/jdsmn21 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I just put this one up last weekend for my 55". I don't know if you desire articulating though, but IMHO, it folds flat enough that the articulating is just a bonus. Everything was in the kit for hardware. I know you said 60", but if it meets for weight, I'd go ahead.

https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Dream-MD2413-MX-Articulating-400x400mm/dp/B00KXTZ3BE/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478532173&sr=1-13&keywords=articulating+wall+mount


You might want to stop at the hardware store first and pick up a magnetic stud finder before ordering a mount - they are like $5-10, and handy to have if you ever want to hang anything else (shelf, large picture).
https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479314795&sr=1-1&keywords=magnetic+stud+finder

u/KingOfId · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You can get a little magnetic stud finder on amazon for like $10. Definitely worth it, you’ll use it a million times for hanging artwork and shelves. Like someone else said, use it to locate drywall nails and get an idea of where the joist runs, then screw a hook into the joist. You can also knock along the drywall and listen for when the sound is more solid—less hollow—to get an idea. Any reasonably sized hook with a screw end should be fine for a plant.

Edit: this is the stud finder : stud finder

u/spitfyre · 1 pointr/femalefashionadvice

I also would get really overwhelmed whenever I shopped in person. Didn't really go away until I worked on my self-esteem issues some. Shopping online was much easier, especially once I took my measurements.

Buy a tape measure (Amazon link) and get your measurements, most clothing sites will tell you how to measure. And then just look at the website's sizing guide and pick the size that's closest to your measurements. You have a reasonably good chance of getting something that fits well by following the sizing guide and reading the reviews.

u/slopecarver · 3 pointsr/woodworking

the factory edges on a sheet of plywood can be considered straight. Rip the long edges of a sheet of plywood off for the rails of a router flattening setup then rip the factory edged short ends off of the plywood to use as the vertical ribs of the router sled. Spring for a high grade plywood for this sort of thing, baltic birch or other cabinet grade plywood is a pleasure to work with.

Edit 2 more pieces of something straight can be used as winding sticks to make sure your rails when set up don't twist. I recommend a metal straight edge/ruler, these can be had cheaply here: http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-ASE-24-Anodized-Aluminum-Straight/dp/B002C29SG6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1414522871&sr=8-4&keywords=straight+edge

u/SteveAndTheCrigBoys · 1 pointr/Wellthatsucks

My studfinder is shit. My old boss had a seriously nice one for about $60 that had ~12 LED's that would light up in succession around a stud (mine was $15 and had a wildly inaccurate single LED).

Still, find an outlet, measure 16" from one side and start knocking. Then punch a bunch of skinny nails through in 1/4" increments wherever it feels solid. If you're gonna mount a TV in your apartment, a few tiny nailholes (especially in a row that are super easy to spackle over) aren't gonna ruin your deposit. Then pull 16" from that nailhole and there should be another stud. I've hung 6 tv's in the last 5 years, it's not rocket science.

Edit: it's actually only $50 on Amazon ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bRYxzbDXXJHSW

u/fifey157 · 1 pointr/PointsPlus

I use this body tape measure to do my measurements, but any simple measuring tape will work. I take measurements once a week from bust, under bust, upper arm, upper thigh, waist, hips. This article from Nerd Fitness describes taking measurements (scroll down to the Track Your Body section). Also, pictures are a great way to track progress!

u/pierre_x10 · 2 pointsr/keto

Get a body tape measure, they are fairly cheap, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

​

Look up how to measure your body parts (waist, hips, arms, etc), and track those like you would your weight.

​

I only recently re-started keto, but the last time I was eating keto, there were a couple months that my weight didn't go down, but I could tell from my belt that I was still slimming down. Keto is great for body recomp.

u/ickis · 1 pointr/AutoCAD

Are there any particular measuring tools you recommend, aside from a good set of calipers, a solid ruler, and a gap gauge?

I'm thinking about grabbing this to help with figuring out angles on objects.

u/cpt_fuzzyboots · 3 pointsr/loseit

You can order a body comp measuring tape off amazon (don't use a seamstress tape). And there's a whole pile of formulas out there that you can put your measurements in, and it will give you an estimate of your body fat percentage. I did all of them, and picked the one that gave me the most median number (which for me was the US Department of Defense formula). I now just use that formula to track my progress.

I feel like this is the most cost-effective and reasonable method for the majority of people.

edit: I went back and it seems like the one I originally got isn't on Amazon anymore, but it looks exactly like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Mudder-Personal-Calipers-Measure-Fitness/dp/B01B9EJBB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484921416&sr=8-1&keywords=body+fat+tape (I didn't get the calipers).
Found it: https://www.amazon.ca/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484921416&sr=8-3&keywords=body+fat+tape

This is the formula I use: http://www.calculator.net/army-body-fat-calculator.html

And this is the app I use on my phone to calculate and track everything: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.purewowstudio.bodycal

Here's a chart explaining the different ranges: http://cdn.builtlean.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Ideal-Body-Fat-Percentage-Chart1.jpg

u/evanphi · 2 pointsr/ender3

This makes me think that your x-gantry is not squared up properly, or when you were trying to get it square you forced those wheels out of alignment.

Disassemble the gantry from both carriers (you'll have to remove it completely from the z-screw to remove the left side) and adjust the wheels on the carriers first. They should be just tight enough to hold them up vertically but you should be able to slide them up and down with minimal resistance.

Then start the reassembly process. Install the left end of the gantry first, and get the gantry arm as flat/parallel as possible along the base's protrusion towards center. I lay something thick and flat on this protrusion so I can make sure the gantry arm is parallel to it. Slide that end on through the z-screw, etc.

Now when assembling the right side, you have your bolts visible on either side of the vertical track, so you can adjust for level/square from the right side. Do the same method as the left side with aligning the gantry arm with the protrusion that goes to center to get you close to square. Don't completely tighten these right side bolts, though. Measure DOWN from the top of the vertical struts to the gantry arm and tighten the right side bolts completely once you get it squared up. I recommend using a locking combination square, and don't worry about the exact number for distance, just that they are the same.

Through this whole process you shouldn't have touched your eccentric nuts and your base on the right should still be relatively stable.

u/Panderian109 · 1 pointr/videopals

This is what I use. It tells me how much fat I have so I really know how much I'm loosing. Just be sure to do it in the morning before you eat anything and before you drink anything because the pulse will react differently if you have a different amount of water in your body. So if i do it one day right when I wake up then another day after dinner, the reading won't be accurate. I always do it in the morning. I also use one of these to measure my waist, arms, legs, neck, and chest to see where I'm loosing. I'm telling you, your mind plays all kind of weird tricks on you when you're trying to get fit because even though you're working out and eating awesome, you can still feel like nothing is working. For me, I've gotta prove it to myself. Having something to measure my health other than how I feel about myself when I look into the mirror helps.

u/tmbridge · 1 pointr/woodworking

Awesome. Question though... what is the difference between the ruler in the first part of the video and the centering rule near the end?

http://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE12-12-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U7

or

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GU68M6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3N8FLE4WIU60I&coliid=I6W25CZPKUIS0

Does the centering rule have all the features of the first as well as just adding the centering features? It seems like it loses the center holes that the regular ruler has but it has the smaller edge holes? Does anyone know the true difference between them?

u/robenco15 · 5 pointsr/golf

Empire Level 4004 48-Inch Aluminum Straight Edge

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YYFV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You put the ball at the one end in the little hole that is punched out. Then you putt the ball down the length of the ruler, keeping the ball on the ruler the entire time.

Whenever I want a golf fix and I can't get out at all, hitting putts over and over down this ruler in the living room while the golf channel is on gets me there. On top of that, it is incredibly helpful. It has also made me aware of so many other aspects of my putting - my stance, grip position, eye placement, etc.

Highly recommend it.

u/giftedandcursed · 1 pointr/specializedtools

I see this one rated highest and this is the one I personally own for auto body....


General Tools 837 Metal Contour Gauge, Profile Gauge, Shape Duplicator, 6-Inch (152mm), Stainless Steel Pins, Precisely Copy Irregular Shapes For Perfect Fit and Easy Cutting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uFFnDb3HJF6P9

u/bikecitywoodworks · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Thanks for the question! It's a marking gauge, which is used to scribe a line parallel to an edge. They're relatively cheap on Amazon and are awesome to have in the arsenal!

u/bn1979 · 0 pointsr/woodworking

If one is so inclined, they can make most of their own tools...

... but how many hobbyists in this sub are running Festool stuff or cabinet saws for 4 hours a month. Every day I see a "look at my new $1000 toy, how do I make a cutting board" post.

It's not really that major of an expense. This one here is about the same as mine and is only about $80. Realistically one half the size would be more than sufficient for most people. Most table saws will only expose 3-1/2 to 4" by about 6" of blade anyways. A Starrett Combination Square is $77 on Amazon, so it's not like it's a crazy expense.

I do agree with you overall that it is far beyond the precision you need for woodworking. I wouldn't dream of trying to cut joints to the thousandths of an inch. You'd come back the next day and the board would have grown/shrunk. Hell, the "ground" versions of these things are insane and belong in the inspection department of a precision machine shop.

For machine setups, however, I don't think it's a big deal to go a little overboard on precision. A well adjusted tool is like a well adjusted person... Less likely to hurt somebody.

Of course the best reason to have something like this... Sometimes you just need a 40# weight. Don't you want one with a nice handle? ;-)

u/McFeely_Smackup · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've gone through at least a dozen stud finders over the years, from cheap to expensive, and the one I've liked best is the Franklin 710

Magnetic stud finders are slightly better than guessing. they don't find studs, they find screws/nails that should be in the stud...but you don't know if it's centered, barely in one side or the other, or missed the stud completely.

u/CollateralFortune · 1 pointr/homelab

I actually got the 5n1 one with the console and "official" internet receiver, but if I were going to do it again on the relative cheap, this is what I would do.

u/bleedscarlet · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Here's a few really good gifts that I got recently:

Highly recommended:

u/Gqueue · 0 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I use a Franklin
https://www.amazon.ca/Franklin-Sensors-ProSensor-710-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG

Which is very similar. Best and easiest stud finder I've ever used.

Only problem is that it is always going off whenever I walk by. :). Lol.

u/Babelius · 2 pointsr/loseit

Use a different metric. Weight will fluctuate depending on if you're building muscle or retaining water, or any number of variables. Maybe invest in a tape measure? This is about 3.50, and will definitely be a better account on top of the scale.

Also, starving yourself/using meal substitutes to artificially lower your weight may make you feel good when the scale numbers go down, but the side-effects are definitely not worth it (muscle-loss, malnutrition, etc). Be patient, measure your body-fat percentage rather than weight (muscle is denser than fat!) and be diligent. You'll get there, don't get discouraged.

u/ArdvarkMaster · 1 pointr/woodworking

Wall stud detectors, at least the one I have, are Neodymium magnets in plastic frame. Great at finding nails in the wall and since I already have this one, no need to purchase one. Very useful.

u/Inshpincter_Gadget · 8 pointsr/electricians

Use a powerful magnet to locate the nails in the wall. When you find a vertical row of nails that is where the stud is.

This one is awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=magnet+stud+finder&qid=1554615529&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/DesolationRobot · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

> better luck with a magnet to find studs

This little guy is my go-to stud finder. The only electronic studfinder I've used that wasn't garbage was a $90 model. It was still only ok.

u/magele · 2 pointsr/loseit

I use this : http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

and I love it, I also paid quite a bit for a good digital scale, different ways to measure progress, but for 6 bucks you can't go wrong!

u/kothmia · 1 pointr/orangetheory

You might take a look at getting one of the tape measures with a peg (kinda like this ) I've found that (with the exception of shoulders) it helps a TON!

I'd take the last couple of days before the end of the WLC off from OTF, to give your muscles a chance to shed the water tht they're likely retaining!

u/torinmr · 2 pointsr/bodyweightfitness

I have one of those, and the %BF it reports varies wildly day-to-day, by several percent. As such, I've found it pretty much useless.

I've found a simple waist measurement to be a much more consistent measure of BF progress, even though it doesn't directly correspond to a % number. If you want a fancy gadget, I bought this for a few bucks and it makes body measurement easier and more consistent.

u/g1bs0nsg · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Rare earth magnets work great, they latch on to nails/screws. Find one, then slide it up to find another above, and down to find another below, and you can be sure you're on a stud.

I have one of these, and it's never led me astray:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1416347164&sr=1-1&keywords=stud+finder

u/iamajs · 1 pointr/homeowners

> Get these magnetic stud finders, rather than wasting money on an electronic stud finder. I own like 4 electronic stud finders, and none of them work as well as these.

This electronic stud finder is quite possibly the best one I've ever used: https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496427688&sr=1-8&keywords=stud+finder

u/MrHookup · 2 pointsr/pics

Thanks for this! Never thought there was a better way to find the studs.

Said in the pigs voice on Toy Story 2 "50 bucks ain't bad!"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064EICKG?vs=1

u/ihitrecord · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

In the basement? Something like this.

In the wood? This.

If your basement is constantly humid, plumb in a dehumidifier. However, in doing that, you may want to wait for it to stabilize and then re-acclimate the wood.

Yeah, sorry, no good news from me.

u/YAMMYRD · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Honestly a really good magnet, finds the nails that attach the lathe. I think I have this one

u/sunamonster · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I use one of these for marking studs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_acpCzbE82Y34Q

Another comment said fiberglass fishing sticks, I use those extensively (cable installer) as well as using fish tape when you need something more flexible

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_vepCzbK7AKCQF

Drilling up from the bottom is probably best, just take your time to scout out power lines and studs so you don't hit anything unexpected. Something I do whenever I cut in new outlets is cut the drywall first and stick a light in the hole, drill (everything is attics in SW Florida) and see if I can see the light. It's better to drill a couple times than cut extra holes in the drywall.

u/iveo83 · 1 pointr/woodworking

it looks like this https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481037968&sr=8-1&keywords=compound+square

but I think it was my grandfathers prob 30+ years old so I assume its good. I can look into getting a digital one though.

u/LeftistRedneck · 13 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get a new stud detector. Even if you spend $50, I guarantee you it will pay off in saving your sanity by getting one like this or even better that senses any electrical or plumbing behind the wall: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8XSYBbQTVG65E

u/bilged · 0 pointsr/DIY

This is what I use and it would definitely be strong enough to get through 2" of drywall.

u/guice666 · 1 pointr/Fitness

MyoTape - very useful.

And I agree.

u/lefinale · 3 pointsr/xxfitness

I have experienced the same anxieties. If you are exercising regularly or incorporating weights into your program - try to only weigh yourself every week or two (on Sundays in the AM, for example.)

Also invest in some Measuring Tape to get a better idea of progress. The scale can be really toxic, but if you are paying closer attention to your measurements and how your body feels in general then hopefully the anxiety will lessen! Muscle weighs more than fat, so the scale can be pretty useless once exercise becomes more of your daily routine.

u/quanimal · 3 pointsr/woodworking

You should check to see what he already has but my suggestions

  1. You can't have too many clamps

  2. for a luxury item, you could get him some top of the line marking tools or gauges - i.e. a nice pair of digital calipers or a super fancy combo square - these are things he probably has something of, but you could get him the Cadillac version
u/Athole · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I got a laser level from walmart, it's nice because I can put it on the table and it casts a line, so I don't have to worry too much about my hand shaking, just line up the arc lines with the cast line.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/BLACK-DECKER-BDL220S-Mounting-Accessories/sim/B000B8GBBS/2

u/LDukes · 4 pointsr/Warmachine

I, and most people I see who use them, use a laser level which you can find in most any hardware store or, of course, online.

As an added bonus, they make deployment a breeze (see player on left). Just measure your 7" or 10" close to one table edge, lay the laser down at that point, and measure again along the opposite edge to make sure it's...well...level. Then you can quickly and accurately deploy your models without constantly remeasuring or relying on a scattering of dice/markers.

u/bill_bull · 2 pointsr/Tools

Do you guys really not use Franklin 710's? They are awesome, you can even put it right over a stud, turn it on and it won't freak out. It uses multiple sensors instead of one, so it compares the relative density readings of the different sensors in one place, instead of finding a stud based on relative density from one sensor changing with movement. Plus it shows both edges of the stud at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1540825376&sr=8-9&ref=sr_1_9

If you don't use that, go with magnets. Nothing else it worth the money.

u/Cabin_Sandwich · 2 pointsr/bodybuilding

i like these, you can do your measuring with one hand.

u/ListenHereYouLittleS · 1 pointr/woodworking

Excellent. In that case, you're better off with a gift card to rockler or woodcraft. Because some of the smaller things you can buy at that price range can really be a hit or miss based on what she has and/or her skill level or interests. I'd suggest a starrett 12" square but that might not be the right tool bc she may not care about that level of precision and a regular $15 square from home depot might be enough for her. That being said, Idk of a single woodworker who would not be happy with a starrett square if they don't have one already. haha.

u/mr-peabody · 2 pointsr/DIY

I got this thing. Works like a champ.

u/nigelregal · 1 pointr/Fitness

I have a scale similar to that. I weighed myself for weeks everyday at same time and then multiple times a day. The body fat reading would vary day to day between 12% and 19%. Other scales might be more consistent though.

I have used the more expensive inbody ones at my gym and the hospital I work at. Those seem to be more consistent but each one gives fairly different results. For example the one at my gym typically reads me out at 13% body fat. The one at the hospital reads me out at around 16%. The difference could be that I measure at the gym at 6pm and at work i'm doing it around lunch time.

My advice is to take measurements instead using something like:

  • This
  • Or this
  • Or this

    Track it all on a spreadsheet. I have one if you want one. If you have the cash though for the scale I would just get a wireless one that transmits the data to your phone so it tracks weight and such without having to write it down (if you are lazy about that). The body fat part could just be "something interesting" to see but not something you take stock in.
u/brad3378 · 5 pointsr/3DScanning

I think I would skip the 3D scanner and work with measurements instead.

I would buy a $10 tool to measure contours like this: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Contour-Duplicator-6-Inch/dp/B00004T7RA

I would also buy a small dry erase board to capture notes in the background of photographs. My dry erase board would have messages such as "cross section #1" next to the contour measurement tool so you can keep your contour measurements organized.

Lastly, I would buy graph paper with your preferred square spacing, I would transfer the captured cross-section contours onto known coordinates on the graph paper. The measurements from the graph paper captures can be converted to splines in your favorite CAD software and then converted to sweeps or lofts.

u/tryingtohike · 2 pointsr/xxketo

I've only tracked inches since i started Keto. I used this tape measure that came w/ a scale before only to realize that it didn't give an accurate number since there was around 3 inches that went unmeasured. my best guess was that I was 50 inches before maybe 51 in waist and now I jump between 44 and 45 inches.

u/fun_director · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Best one that I know of... I use it all the time, very accurate!

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GR7aAbYG0R3YB

u/jakkarth · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Tom Silva did a great segment on Ask This Old House about finding weird angles for kitchen crown molding when the cabinets weren't square. I can't find it for the life of me though, so I'll try to describe it in text. Edit found it! Starts about 13 minutes in.

For outside corners, take two pieces of 1x3 or 1x4, about a foot long. Hold one to each wall with some hanging past the corner, so that they overlap. With the pieces tight against the wall, trace the edge on the piece below/above it, and also mark both pieces on the v between them. Take the pieces and draw a line from the v mark to the end of the line against the corner, and that's the angle you need to cut a perfect miter. Simply line up your saw blade using that as your guide, then cut the molding piece. Use the same process on the other board to get the guide for the other side of the miter. Adapting the same process to inside corners is left as an exercise for the reader, assuming you don't want to cope one side.

Or, use a digital angle finder.

u/BoxDropCroissant · 6 pointsr/BabyBumps

the best stud finder ever


  • this is NOT a risky click 😉
u/Schneiderman · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427123016&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

I like it a lot better than most electronic versions. Also, you could just buy the magnets and make one yourself.

u/antarcticgecko · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Magnet stud finders will never steer you wrong. Excellent little gizmo.

u/IcyKettle · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Yeah, mostly likely just inaccurate readings.

I'm guessing you're using a standard stick-style stud finder.

Ditch it and get a Franklin. They're far more accurate (especially in older homes with thick plaster/gypsum) and intuitive to use.

Cheers.

u/xtothel · 2 pointsr/homeowners

Try to get something like this
ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KFUgzbKCDT8VR

Saved me a lot of time.

u/gsfgf · 11 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

I have this one and it works pretty well.

u/fka_reddit · 11 pointsr/Fitness

They make a special tape measure that connects back to itself. I will try to find it and edit my comment

Edit: like this http://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-MT05-MyoTape-Body-Measure/dp/B000G7YW7Y

u/WhisperToARiot · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Came here to say this, this was my best purchase all summer 👍 CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/theuautumnwind · 1 pointr/Skookum

I love my magnetic one.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3sVmzbJCQXF08

u/sliverworm · 1 pointr/DIY

This one is awesome

u/scottklarr · 2 pointsr/DIY

I would recommend using a magnetic stud finder. They allow you to find where the drywall screws are. Once you find a screw with it, move it vertically to find at least 2 other screws to verify it's just not a stray screw. This is the one I use regularly.

Then you can mount directly into the stud.

You could also use toggler snaptoggle anchors if the studs don't line up quite where you want the mounts to be. I use these very often for monitor mounting. The drywall is plenty strong enough. These do require a 1/2" hole to be drilled, however. So keep that in mind if you will be having to patch them later.

u/chrisbrl88 · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Looks like surfactant bleed from high humidity following painting. Kilz it and repaint it.

You can get an inexpensive moisture meter to put your mind at ease.

u/genmud · 1 pointr/DIY

Tap on the wall with your knuckle and listen for the difference in sound, good stud finders can be had for fairly cheap as well.


ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aw4Dyb0DQVVAB

u/SathedIT · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

There are such things as magnetic stud finders. They are amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3d25xbSTG6N7P

u/bartharris · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have been using this one for years, with great success. It stows inside my drill case like a James Bond gadget (From Russia With Love). I have never used an electronic stud finder. The only problem I have had with this one is when I find metal studs, but I have since learned how to deal with them.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

u/goodcheapandfast · 2 pointsr/blackfriday

Thanks for the heads up. This is arguably a better product (it has a level built-in) at a cheaper price: https://smile.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

StudBuddy is USA-made, however. This comes from China.

u/mcracer · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

You can use these with a RTL-SDR setup. It's well supported in linux.

u/rprebel · 5 pointsr/lifehacks

Electronic stud finders are cheap, and they're not limited to detecting nails/screws. They tell you exactly where the stud begins and where it ends.

This is the exact model I have, and I've had it for almost 20 years. If you're about to move, get one. If you like home improvement projects, get one. If you like blinking toys, get one.

edit: holy shit this one is awesome, if a bit pricey.

u/MC_Preacher · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

For complex shapes, I prefer one of these

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-6-Inch-Contour-Duplication/dp/B00004T7RA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368369782&sr=8-1&keywords=contour+tool

They are fantastic for transferring those shapes to wood, metal etc.

I would suggest snapping a chalk line on your existing countertop, about an inch away from the wall. That way you know you are keeping the contour gauge at a consistent distance from your target shape.

u/Jharrigan07 · 0 pointsr/DIY

Buy a https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498578785&sr=8-1&keywords=franklin+prosensor+710

The stud finder you are using detects the change in density, which can be the edge of a stud or various other things. If you have textured walls, just moving it over the surface can give you a false positive. The prosensor checks across the entire width and gives you a visual indication of the where the stud is. There is apparently one at Cosco (Kirkland branded) that runs about $35.

The thing is life changing, particularly if you are moving to a new place.

u/mikerooooose · 1 pointr/gardening

I measured/marked the holes using a combination square. Then I drilled 5/8 holes in opposite corners cut area. Then I used a cheap ($20) electric jig saw to cut out the area as best as possible. I would follow the lines on one side, then flip it over and cut it again. The jig saw blade bends so it cuts on an angle. Finally, I used a chisel to remove excess material and clean up the holes and straighten them out.

Combination Square
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005XUHIBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1" Chisel (or you can get a set of three for a little more)
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-M444-1-Inch-MARPLES-Chisel/dp/B0000CBJH8/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1493124918&sr=8-20&keywords=irwin+chisel+marples

Mallet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020JNDI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jig Saw
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDEJS300C-Jig-4-5-Amp/dp/B00OJ72L84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493125013&sr=8-1&keywords=4.5+amp+jigsaw

u/RugerRedhawk · 2 pointsr/DIY

You would use this to draw your line: http://www.amazon.com/Swanson-Tool-SO101-7-inch-Square/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376580412&sr=8-1&keywords=speed+square

Of course you can do any job many ways, but a miter saw is going to come in handy and be a lot quicker and more accurate than using a circular saw. Definitely buy the circular saw first though, because as you say it can do the work of a miter saw plus more.

u/Natural_Law · 1 pointr/DIY

The weird part is that it definitely sticks (the magnetic stud finder) to the corners. Both concave corners (ie-the regular corners of a 4 sided room) and the convex corners (ie- like a hallway corner)....don't know if convex and concave are the proper terms.

So, it can find SOME nails through whatever material is on there. Just not ANYWHERE on the wall itself.

u/Certain_Concept · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You may want to buy a mousture sensor.

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mOEvCbX3KNQNX

I have the same ceiling/texture. I have a big water spot from a fixed roof leak. While it was leaking it didnt necessarily feel moist but the meter was a good way to check.

u/Arrested · 1 pointr/90daysgoal

Yeah, they cost ~6 bucks on amazon. Here is what I purchased for tracking my measurements.

Body Measuring Tape on Amazon

Calipers on Amazon