Reddit reviews: The best memory cards

We found 6,368 Reddit comments discussing the best memory cards. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 845 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top Reddit comments about Memory Cards:

u/silicon_reverie · 1 pointr/PickAnAndroidForMe

Verizon is the real kicker here, as they typically don't play well with others (refusing to whitelist devices they can't control) and thus manufacturers don't have a reason to make "universal" CDMA & GSM devices with all the requisite radios. Even the Nexus 5 that can cross over to Sprint won't go near Big Red. Your proposed Nexus 6 is the big exception to this rule (though you still have to trick Verizon into accepting the device), and its universality is part of the reason it received so much fanfare at launch. Great choice, and feel free to ask me any questions you have about Shamu, as I'm currently using it as my daily driver.

Because of Verizon's lack of compatible selection, my advice is to instead give your wife's Thunderbolt a shot in the arm and wait until the carrier switch to upgrade. You mentioned that the phone isn't doing so well right now; would you mind elaborating on the biggest concerns? $6 to $20 will get her a new (and larger) battery through Amazon, and Sony's microSD card range is all heavily discounted today, including this 32GB model for under $16. Replacing parts is mostly painless. If it's a software bug or the processor showing its age when tasked with running newer games, there are ROMs and resets you can try... but I'm guessing you're already on top of that given your use of CM.

When it comes to new devices, a lot depends on your price point and target carrier(s).

The /r/Nexus5 (no longer in stock on Play, but still available elsewhere) works with every carrier except Verizon, and is a good low-cost device that gives you the flexibility to jump ship for cheaper plans when/if they become available. If buying used, make sure to find one originally purchased from the Play Store so that all carriers will have its IMEI whitelisted. Also, check for a clean IMEI/ESN to make sure outstanding bills are paid, the device wasn't stolen, and thus you won't have trouble with blacklists. The battery isn't the best (and does have a finite lifespan), but replacement is still an option if you don't mind getting your hands (a little) dirty. For an easier fix, there's a new Kickstarter that packs an external battery and microSD card slot into a bumper case.

Then there's the /r/Nexus6, but you've already done your research on that one.

If you're looking forward to the carrier-hopping nature of the Google Nova service, I would stick with the two Google phones - they have all the necessary radios, easily modified firmware, and are likely launch candidates.

T-Mobile-only opens up your options a bit (as would AT&T). The OnePlus One can give you a clean Nexus-like experience at half the cost (if you're lucky enough to get an invite), and works on both GSM carriers. Every Motorola phone produced this year is top notch, with the Moto E and G being crowd favorites for the budget conscious. LG also has some great handsets at the lower end of the spectrum, but it would be helpful to know what you're looking for in terms of price, camera, battery, storage, etc., before narrowing down the field and really making a case for one device over another.

As you said, the HTC flip clock has many copycats on the Play Store, some of which are very convincing. Be sure to run the full permissions through the creep test before installing (scroll to the bottom and click "permission details" instead of reading the abbreviated list in the "install" popup), but this sounds like a great option.

Also for your consideration:

You mentioned both T-Mobile and Google Nova (Sprint + T-Mobile) in your post, so I'm obligated to at least point out /r/Ting: the original Sprint + T-Mobile MVNO.

Depending on your average use, the rates are incredibly competitive (I personally dropped to an average bill of $20 after switching from the grandfathered unlimited plan you're on now). No contracts, same coverage (Sprint | T-Mo) and device selection as on the parent carriers, and far superior customer service (about which I could ramble for days - they're the only company I actually enjoy calling for help, yet I never need to).

As a bonus, there are hundreds of $25 referral codes floating around the net (including mine: https://zcb74a36ao8.ting.com/) that practically pay for your first month's service, but you should definitely ask around to your friends and family first because both you and the referrer get the bonus.

The best-bang-for-your-buck Ting-able Sprint phones right now are the Nexus 5, LG Volt, Sharp AQUOS Crystal, and Motorola Moto G (Boost Mobile version | Sprint Prepaid version), but the main list is here with the majority of unofficially supported ones listed in this post from the subreddit.

But like I said, it would be helpful to know:

  • what you're looking for in a carrier
  • the importance you place on being able to take your phone from carrier to carrier with you
  • How passable the Thunderbolt is for the near-term
  • and what features you need in your new device

    I'm happy to answer any questions you have about the Nexus 6 and/or Ting as well. Good luck on your hunt for the perfect carrier and device!
u/pmo2408 · 38 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I was Xbox forever, started a new job on the road and decided to go for the switch as well for portability. Good choice.


Must Buys Accessories:

Screen protector - there is a 2 pack on amazon:

amFilm Tempered Glass Screen Protector for Nintendo Switch 2017 (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3ASPNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XMpaCbKXMWRXR

SD card (if going digital with games) - maybe go 256gb, amazon has a sale on them, you only need U1 speeds for the switch:

SanDisk 256GB Ultra microSDXC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter - 100MB/s, C10, U1, Full HD, A1, Micro SD Card - SDSQUAR-256G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758NHWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GOpaCbW67RGST

Carrying cases - I have two, one for the whole collection (switch, joycons, dock, charger, hdmi):

AmazonBasics Travel and Storage Case for Nintendo Switch - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072C9BVTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ePpaCbSBT7C1S

And one for the switch in handheld mode. I use both quite frequently:

Orzly Carry Case Compatible With Nintendo Switch - RED Protective Hard Portable Travel Carry Case Shell Pouch for Nintendo Switch Console & Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6DYRXF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dQpaCbHY3E5B4

Pro controller - easier to play games in docked mode than the joycons.


Smash is out next Friday, but it looks like the best game of the year material.


Pokémon Let’s Go is a spin off, remake of yellow version, but it is a great game. Maybe not $60 great for gameplay, but for nostalgia. I’d say a fair price is around $40.


Games suggested:

Must Play Exclusives:

Zelda: BOTW (10/10) little bit of a learning curve, but open world game with 100+ hours of content

Super Mario Odyssey (9.5/10) very laid back and at times almost too easy, but overall very fun and creative. 30 hours of content


Exclusives W/ Friends or Online:

Mario Kart 8 (9/10)

Super Mario Party Switch (8.5/10)


Other Top Tier Exclusives:

Splatoon (8.5/10) (may be stressful online, but awesome game for both online play and “salmon runs”)

Donkey Kong Tropical Freeze (8.5/10) (tough game but such awesome level design, music; this game can become frustrating)

Mario Rabbids (8.5/10) (fun game, again, can become frustrating as it is a strategy, turn based game with Nintendo characters)

Pokémon Let’s Go (8.5/10) (fun game, super nostalgic trip back to the past of Pokémon origins but now in 3D with alolan forms)

We still don’t know about Super Smash Bros Ulitmate, but I can’t imagine it won’t be a 9 or 9.5 out of 10.

Golf story is the next exclusive game I’ll be getting some time down the road, very hit or miss with people however.

Disclaimer: I don’t really get non exclusives on switch, as I can get them on PC for cheap 9/10 times (except red dead). Also, I do not care for JRPG’s, so I can’t comment on Xenoblade, Octopath, Fire Emblem, Monster Hunter etc.

As others have pointed out, indies are great for the Switch, not too demanding to require further CPU or GPU Power to hinder gameplay, but you will pay the “Nintendo tax”. This is that Nintendo hardly has sales on games. But the point of the Switch is gaming on the go, so it’s a good trade off. If that’s not your reasoning, then stick with indies on stronger consoles or PC.


Joycons are not too small, I would pair them with these if you want to use them single player (like Mario kart or Mario party):

FASTSNAIL Grips for Nintendo Switch Joy-Con, Wear-resistant Handle Kit for Switch Joy Cons Controller, 2 Pack (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ1PCKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JQpaCbHVQ6NMH

When attached to the switch in handheld mode, you can use this to help:

Orzly Comfort Grip Case for Nintendo Switch - Protective Back Cover for use on The Nintendo Switch Console in Handheld Gamepad Mode with Built in Comfort Padded Hand Grips - Smokey Slate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077V57CVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xRpaCbJQ25TFS

u/random12356622 · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

I am going to list parking mode cameras I would pick, but each have strengths and weaknesses.

  • A119 v2 ($80-100 USD) Excellent video quality, Fair/Poor build quality, Lackluster parking mode.

    Excellent video quality - Probably the best video quality dash cam on the market. The A119S v2 has been very disappointing, under preforming the A119 v2 in most aspects. A119 Pro is very near the A119 v2, but as of yet not out preformed the A119 v2. - Firmware updates could possibly improve video quality of A119 v2, A119S v2, and A119 Pro, but as of yet, the A119 v2 is on top.

    Fair/Poor build quality - A119 v1 is the reason build quality is low. It was released, with obvious flaws, and was not addressed until the A119 v2. A119 v2 has resolved most issues.

  • Lackluster parking mode - Missing one or more of the features of excellent parking mode.

  • Excellent parking mode - Automatic engage/disengage when parked, Buffered - Able to record a few seconds before G sensor or Motion sensor activated (like a time machine), Built in low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based.

    A119 Lackluster parking mode = Automatic Engage/disengage when parked via G sensor/Motion sensor inactivity for 90 seconds, Not Buffered, Add Low voltage cut off feature via hardwire kit.

    A119 cost structure 1CH = 2x to cover front back. 2x Dashcam ($80-100 USD) + 2x Micro SD card ($20-40 USD) + 2x Hardwire kit (1x cheap ($13 USD) + 1x expensive ($24 USD)) = ($157~328 USD)

  • Cheap hardwire kits have flaws: (Preset/Not Adjustable) Voltage Only; Short cable lengths - Suitable for only the front dash cam only, also that little black box will end up on your dash board; Vulnerable to cold (once car warms up it is fine); Does not include 2nd 5amp fuse for Tap a fuse (purchasable at any automotive store.)

  • Expensive hardwire kits have less flaws: (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based; Longer cable lengths suitable for (Front/Rear) cameras. However the price point makes Excellent parking mode dash cams more affordable.


  • BlackSys CH-100B 2CH ($160-230 USD) Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality. - Includes Hardwire kit + 16 GB Micro SD card + GPS for about ($220 USD) - Video quality is a huge step down from the A119 v2 - You will want to specifically want to compare the difference. Excellent build quality = less and more livable flaws. Excellent parking mode - described above. This dash cam like all dash cams have some flaws, but fit the bill for most people. - Negative about this dash cam is price went up from ($200 USD) to ($220 USD) recently. I do not like this price increase at all. ~$160 was for Used/refurbished models from Blackboxmycar.com, email them if they have any at that price.

  • BlackSys CH-200 2CH ($300 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good Video quality. - Includes Hardwire kit + 32 GB Micro SD card + GPS for ($300 USD) - This is a step up in video quality from the BlackSys CH-100B 2CH, but still below 2x A119 v2s. Excellent build quality = less and more livable flaws. Excellent parking mode - described above. This dash cam like all dash cams have some flaws, but fit the bill for most people.

  • Mini 0906 ($130 USD) - I do not like this camera, but it is a 2CH model, that many people talk about. Make sure to visit Dashcamtalk for written reviews on it, and watch video reviews on it: USDashcam and Blackboxmycar have excellent youtube channels you should check out. What you want in reviews is ones that point out flaws/negatives, cheerleaders are not welcome. All dash cams have flaws, some are more glaring than others.
u/CaptainClough · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Definitely a Screen Protector

A Travelling Case would be nice.

I also added Dr Scholls Moleskin to the front of my dock to reduce the risk of scratching the screen protector. (Two small strips on the parts inside the dock that are raised.)

A Memory Card also helps for the digital only games.

What color Switch did you get? I got the grey switch then bought a pair of Red Joycons and another pair of Blue Joycons. So in total I have a grey, red, and blue L Joycon and a grey, red, and blue R Joycon.

If you got the grey switch and then buy the [two color Joycon packs] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493753597&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+joycons) then you won't be able to get one of each color for L/R without over paying. This is because the [two color Joycon packs] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493753597&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+joycons) are always Red L and Blue R.

If you bought a neon switch, then buy the [two color Joycon pack] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Neon-Neon-Blue/dp/B01N6QJ58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493753597&sr=8-2&keywords=blue+joycons) and a pair of Grey Joycons for all combinations.

Also, don't buy Joycons on Amazon, they are stupid expensive right now.

I don't have a pro controller yet, but people seem to love it.


Zelda = Must Buy

Mario Kart 8 Deluxe = Must Buy

1-2 Switch = Great for parties/friends

Snipperclips = Great for people who don't play games often (girlfriends/parents/kids). Secret here is to not explain how to play/what to do and let them have fun and try to figure out the puzzles on their own. Act like a support character and you'll have a blast watching them.

Binding of Isaac = I love this game, but put countless hours on the PC version. Mature themes

Super Bomberman R = Classic mode with easy CPUs is fun for roommates. I haven't played through the adventure mode yet.

Wonderboy = Cute/Fun side scroller.

Has Been Heroes = I don't have this yet, apparently very difficult.

Other notes:

I started collecting amiibos after getting a switch (Be very careful, it's easy to get addicted and drop a ton of money here).

I got a Joycon charging dock since the only way to charge extra pairs of Joycons without the Joycon charging dockis to rotate them in and out of the switch while it charges/docked.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

PS I love the Switch so much. It's definitely my favorite console ever.

u/s0dafire · 1 pointr/Bitcoin

> You wouldn't target the merchant for the double spend.

Yes, but you don't understand me here. The merchants self-interest is it to not accept anything else then payments though there own node or there choosen and trusted nodes. Nodes that are known for that they are honest miners. Because they can be sure it will get confimed in the blockchain. Because if they exclude any other node like your set up double spend node, they just lose money by allowing potential double spend-0conf txs. So, it's not clever for them to allow all nodes.
If you sending double spends to other nodes that are not known to be honest miners, they easily don't accept your payment after all.
That's why people are trusting Bitpay or recently those new Coinbase Widgets as payments. -> trusted nodes.

I totally see why someone gets the impression it wouldn't be "censorship resistant" anymore, if SM get excluded.
The answer is simple: You'll have to stick to the "consensus" rules. Be a honest miner and the network and all txs will be censorship resistant. If the network detects that your are attempting double spends (two outputs at the same time), you'll get rejected. This is not censorship. Just make one tx after another. Should be easy for a machine to detect.

Selfish mining always create a fork until they release the longer chain to the network.

And i think if you are a full node miner. Memory space isn't really the issue here: https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Ultra-400GB-Adapter-SDSQUAR-400G-GN6MA/dp/B074RNRM2B/ref=sr_1_sc_1/135-6091595-2403802?ie=UTF8&qid=1523491645&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=sdd+400gb

400GB MicroSS costs $200 TODAY!
With the volatility of Cryptocurrencies, you will be definitely able to pay for such things with no hassle.

You need a good machine to mine profitable and have cheap electricity sources as well. This was always the case.

Data memory gets cheaper and cheaper. Until we have full 1GB blocks everyday, we will have 1TB MicroSDs for $50. I promise you that. Cryptocurrencies will force to form the electronic industry. We already seeing that at the moment with Intel and Samsung buliding/planning more efficient ASICs equipment than Bitmain. Soon we will have artificial intelligence mining cryptocurrencies. Mining is competition. Mining is capitalism. That's the cold truth. - You can't mine bitcoin profitable with our old C64.
The only real need is that mining needs to be more energy efficient/energyconsuming.

EDIT: I read the statement "Trusting miners makes PoW pointless". - I really can't see how this is the case. Trusting miners on top of PoW looks like the better solution for me than just only trust PoW. - maybe you can explain that statement to me futher.

u/jamiegandolf · 1 pointr/gpdwin

It's a great machine. Only problem I've had is the forced updates from Microsoft that have kind of broken my automatic controller functionality in a lot of games. I've seen other issues, though they all seem to be repairable/reversible issues. This specific issue has made it difficult for some of my games to easily see there's a controller available.

I have a 128 GB Samsung Ultra Fit USB flash drive that sits in the back. It's very low key and not noticeable. It does make it difficult to move the screen back completely but the position it is in is just fine with me. There is also a common issue with the USB 3.0 port that makes it sometimes not readable but it just takes a little move and the system recognizes its in there. Just seems to be a cheaply made port, is all. It works most times and has never randomly disconnected on me. This just usually becomes a problem when I remove it and put it back in. Currently there doesn't seem to be anything this small to allow for portability and ease of putting in your pocket, etc. that's above 128 GB. I paid like $30 for it at a local store. That has all of my games on it with Skyrim being the only game I have installed on the internal memory.

In addition to that, I have a 64 GB Micro SD card that is in there and I've just started using it for anything extra I have. 256 GB Micro SD cards are pretty pricey at $150+ for a decent one that will work with your gaming needs.

If you truly stick to emulators, I think that 128 GB USB flash drive will be suffice for you for everything while helping you save money and allowing you time to save up for a 256 GB Micro SD card like I'm doing.

The GPD Win is pretty pricey on its own but you can get lucky if you don't mind getting one used. I got one in superb condition for $300 off eBay (the number 1 key doesn't work, but that's okay) as they are about $439 brand new starting and they take longer to ship because they come from China. I've also read some people having issues where customs opened their box thinking it was drugs. There are also people on this sub selling theirs, one guy today posted one asking $250 and saying it's brand new in the packaging. Doing that may help you save money to put towards an expensive, good SD card too.

u/PianoNyan · 1 pointr/homedefense

Ok, gonna make some assumptions here but the underlying thought process should be somewhat applicable. If the budget doesn't permit a professional security contractor then this is what I would do "on a strict budget" and recognizing that there are features/some level of reliability you ARE giving up in doing this...

Your quoted 400,000 square feet is 3 floors high but assuming it's all one big 'warehouse' which computes to 630' x 630'. Obviously, that's a huge fucking amount of space but here's my thought - if you are truly just trying to get something adequate for long enough to get things out of it then it might make sense to do reactive surveillance rather than active surveillance of the site.

Bare bones, you need access to a power source at each place you want to do this but.... you could just put one of these Wyze Cams with a 32 GB microSD Card at (approximately ~$30/camera + card setup) at each point of ingress/egress & set them to recording continuously to the card. Obviously, if someone who breaks in sees the camera and knows how it works, they could grab the camera and/or SD card and you are shit out of luck... you could put it outside of reasonable reach or obscure it from obvious view. Either way, this is JUST a local backup solution. Also, Disclaimer: I'm not certain if you actually need an internet connection to be constantly present for Wyze cams to keep recording/function - they definitely do local storage on a 24 hour rolling basis but - you'll have to do some research here to know for certain.

You could then just get some cheap contact screamer alarms for each doorway and just disable them when people are there working who are SUPPOSED to be there so everyone doesn't go nuts. .

Moving from "slightly above the barebones" if you wanted active connection/active surveillance capabilities you could:

  • Set up a consumer wifi mesh network such as google wifi and deploy wifi cameras + wifi contact sensors...

    It's extremely hard to know the layout but, if it's a giant open warehouse you might be able to get away with buying less of these nodes than, say, in a house filled with drywall and with all kinds of things impeding line of sight between the wifi pucks. You can get decent deals on these systems at places like Costco or Sam's Club at around $270 for four of them. Frankly, I'd be surprised if you needed more than 12 but even at that amount you're talking about $1200 to get a wifi network blanketing your entire floor plan.

    from there, I'd get the same wyzecam and microSD card setup at $40/camera as outlined above + some wyze sensors or some wifi contact sensors like these. at about $20/door and including an alarm in the sensor - definitely do more research than i just did about what might work best for your situation insofar as wifi contact sensor + alarm devices.

    My thought here is, this will give you local storage of video 24/7 on the camera itself + uploaded clips of motion detected on the cameras to your phone and saved in the cloud + a physical alarm that also doubles as a push notification sensor when the door/window/whatever is moved that can also go to your phone.

    When you are done, the Google Wifi System could be easily repurposed (probably at multiple locations unless you frequently deal with huge square footage like this). That, and your total cost is south of $3000 (at most & if you have a shit load of doors/windows!). If you want higher quality wifi cameras go with Arlo or something like the Blink system but your costs are going to balloon quickly as those cameras are not cheap.

    Alright, hopefully that gets you somewhere! good luck, man!
u/djrbx · 3 pointsr/Surface

>1) I have a 1 TB USB 2.0 HD that my SP2 won't recognize. I believe it's a Seagate that I bought a few years ago to backup my files. I'm reading online that some externals won't work with the SP2 because there isn't enough power being utilitized for it or something. Ok. The HD lights up, but isn't recognized. My SP2 is plugged in, and my HD doesn't have a power source of its own (it doesn't plug into the wall). Am I SOL? I would hate to replace a perfectly good 1TB HD.

Try using a USB powered HUB. I use the Anker USB 3.0 4 Port hub and it works great for devices that need to be powered.

EDIT: Some devices that may need power from the USB may work with a non-powered hub. The hub I linked to will work, try it plugged in first to install the drivers and then again without powering the hub. It may work.

>2) On that note, how do YOU store your files? I am so far behind with cloud storage it isn't even funny. I know I'm living in the stone age, but I like having the physical HD that I can plug in. The remaining space in my 128 GB SP2 is barely going to cover my music, never mind the movies/photos/other that I have. I don't need them all at the drop of a hat, but they are there. So what's the best fix? An external 3.0? Cloud storage? Some kind of NAS like the WD My Cloud?

I use a combination of Dropbox and SkyDrive OneDrive as well as my own personal deployed "cloud" solution located on my NAS. I also have a HTPC that runs Plex Media Server which gives me access to my media collection on the go. Think of it as a free personal Netflix service.

For local storage however, I also have a 64GB microSD card installed which I use to store downloads, local music and movies, software installers, and other documents.

SanDisk just released a 128GB microSD card if you're after more local storage options.

>3) I like watching video files from my laptop on my HDTV. Best way to do this? I used to just use an HDMI cable and VLC. Do I buy a Mini DisplayPort to HDMI converter? Any loss in quality? If anybody has one that they would recommend, I would appreciate it. Not sure if I only need a simple <$10 one or if those are cheap knockoffs that will break. Or just bypass it all and look into the Chromecast?

Yes, you'll need a miniDP to HDMI converter to use your TV as an external display. There is no loss in quality since it's just a digital to digital conversion. You can use a basic adapter like this or an all-in-one solution like this.

Chromecast IMO is shit as it's limited to screen casting on whats displayed inside of chrome. So unless all you need to cast is web based media, I suggest avoiding chromecast altogether. You'll be better off using a miracast device than wasting your money on chromecast.

EDIT: Using either miniDP or the Miracast solution is entirely up to you. It all depends on how much you want to spend, portability, and accessibility.

The miniDP solution will obviously cost less and will be more portable as it's just a simple cable that you can take around and plug-in to any HDMI receiver. The Miracast solution will be convenient in the fact that it's wireless, allowing you to cast what's on your SP2 to your TV without being tethered, however it's more of a hassle bringing it around if you travel a lot as it's more of a set it and forget it solution. Here's an example of Miracasting.

u/Jas_God · 1 pointr/Dashcam

I have a Viofo Compact A119 V2 which is front cam only. I use this in my work truck with it powered by the cigarette lighter socket. Turns on and off with the truck. Does everything I need it to do and the video quality is great. I bought the CPL filter for it as well, to lessen the interior reflection. The dashcam’s $96 I think, filter was like $10. Highly recommend. Easy to self install as well, which I did.

My personal car I have a Street Guardian SG9663DCPRO. This is a front and rear cam. This is pricier, it was about $280, and I bought the hardwire kit for it as well which was another $30. The front cam model is very similar to the A119 V2, they’re practically the same except for a few extra ports on this model. Installation is a bit more involved on this one, but there are YouTube vids you can watch that make it easy. Also depends on your car. FYI the cables are pretty thick, except for the external GPS cord. I was still able to hide them all, but again this depends on the vehicle you’d be installing it in. Video quality is great on this as well, crystal clear picture and readability. This model comes with a lot of extra items and whatnot, where the Viofo is very basic and just the essentials. I highly recommend the SG as well.

For both cams I have the highest possible card it can take, which is 128gb for the Viofo and 400gb for the Street Guardian. You can get these pretty cheap on Amazon, they go on sale very often.

If you have any questions feel free to ask, I’ll answer to the best of my knowledge.

u/oozles · 15 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

Here is a video that goes over current SD card specifications pretty well. I'll post what I got out of it and a little bit of additional research:


There are three different types of SD cards that indicate a size range. SD cards are up to 2GB and are useless for our purposes. SDHC cards are from 4-32 GB and are ill-advised since 32GB isn't really enough. What we're interested in is SDXC cards which are from 64GB to 2TB. Each card has a micro version which is what we need. Capacity type doesn't have an impact on performance.


There are two different families of speed classes that indicate a minimum write performance. The first, traditional speed class comes in Class 2, Class 4, Class 6, and Class 10. The number corresponds to their write speed, Class 2 is 2MB/s, class 10 is 10MB/s. This class is denoted by their number inside of a "C".

The other family of speed class is UHS. There are only two types, type 1 and type 3. These are denoted by their number inside of a "U" shaped symbol. UHS1 writes at 10MB/s, UHS3 writes at 30MB/s. That means the Class 10 and UHS1 have the same minimum write performance, but we're just going to look at UHS cards from now on. It is possible for a card to claim a UHS class speed, and a Class 10 speed.

Bus Interface

There are two different bus interfaces for UHS cards, UHS-I and UHS-II. These are denoted by roman numerals rather than our numbers. UHS-II cards have a second row of connection pins on the back of the card, while UHS-I just has the single row. UHS-II cards can transfer data faster than UHS-I cards when they are in a UHS-II compatible machine. If the machine is not UHS-II compatible then there is no benefit, however the UHS-II card will still work as it is backwards compatible. It does not look like the Nintendo Switch is UHS-III compatible, so there is no benefit to using a UHS-II card in it, which is a shame because the II interface can help read speeds tremendously.

So what is Nintendo recommending with OP's card? A microSDXC UHS3-I card. Meaning it is a micro version of a 64GB card, with the best write speed class, and the standard/worse Bus interface.

Nintendo-licensed Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS3-I for $19.99

Non licensed Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS3-I card for $23

/u/Nobody_is_lurking posted two contenders...

Sandisk microSDXC 64GB UHS1-I card for $14.25

Sandisk microSDXC 128GB UHS1-I card
for $23.25

...but it isn't actually an apples to apples comparison, as they are both UHS1 rather than UHS3. The $6 question is how big of a difference is there functionally between the two speed classes when actually being used by a Switch, which someone already took the time to test!

The results show that, when write speed was involved, the difference was significant, and that installed games can go by 3x faster using a UHS3 card. So sure, the UHS3 is a clear winner for installing, but what people really care about are load times, showed a less drastic story. Installing locally on the Switch beats any external storage options that we're looking at, then the UHS3 trailed shortly behind, with UHS1 following a little longer. For a regularly installed game the difference in load times doesn't seem to be more than a couple of seconds, even if the load time is a minute long. This guy also tested homebrew launched games though, which did show a much bigger difference between UHS1 and UHS3. So there is a difference in load time, but just not a massive one that many people would notice.

Looking at value, for whatever reason the Nintendo-licensed cards are currently cheaper than their equivalent nonlicensed cards, both the 64Gb and 128GB. Obviously the UHS-1 is cheaper than the UHS-3 across the board.

But if you want to branch away from Sandisk you can have the best of both worlds with a Samsung 64GB UHS3-I card for $15 The price per MB stays consistent at bigger sizes as well, so if you wanted a 128GB one it'd be $30.

tl;dr Buy this one. It is better and cheaper.

u/LORD_STABULON · 50 pointsr/gaming

At first I was surprised as well, but the more I think about it, it makes sense.

The NES Classic is selling like hotcakes because of hype. When the hype dies, the sales fall off a cliff. I really don't know anything at all about their supply chain, but it seems that Nintendo has been increasingly reliant on "off-the-shelf" hardware ever since the Wii. For example, there was a little "ATI" logo stamped on the Wii because Nintendo used a regular graphics card for that console, and so ATI "owned" part of that device.

So I'm guessing they don't have a ton of vertical integration for hardware manufacturing. Compare that to Apple, which has been aggressively working to own as much of their hardware manufacturing process as possible, even going as far as to manufacture their own CPUs (iPhones have an "A9" chip or whatever, while other smartphones just buy hardware from companies like Samsung, AMD, nVidia, Qualcomm, etc).

The downside of 100% vertical integration is that if Nintendo wanted to make a new Zelda, they would have to control, manage, and pay for everything that Zelda runs on-- the silicon, the enclosure, the LCD screens, the joysticks, even the plastic game cases and printing of brochures. It's insane when you think about it. The upshot is that when you have complete control over everything, you can "stop the presses" at a moment's notice.

So Nintendo doesn't do vertical integration. Again, I have no insider info, but it's become increasingly clear simply by Googling around. For example here's a Polygon article that shows the NES classic is just a bunch of off-the-shelf hardware crammed into an offically trademarked plastic box. And this makes perfect sense. It's also notable that the Nintendo Switch is also completely outsourced, from the nVidia graphics to the USB-C port, microSD slot, Bluetooth, HDMI, etc.

It makes sense for them too-- they're a software company that happens to be in the advantageous position of being able to make such incredibly high quality software that people are willing to buy custom hardware just to play it. Imagine if EA Games tried to sell a console, and it was the only way to play games featuring their intellectual property. Holy shit, that would be their single biggest blunder.

But I digress: The NES Classic is "Nintendo" only in terms of IP. They're just buying electronics from various hardware manufacturers, gluing them together, installing an emulator, and slapping their logo on it. It's a fun product, but we all know it isn't going to last. And here's the thing: Nintendo surely gets a better deal on all this third-party hardware than you or I would, but only because they're placing massive bulk orders.

And that's the kicker, in my opinion. They might have sold a ton of NES Classic consoles, but the holiday season is over and the hype is sure to die soon. Say they placed an initial order for 500 million "Mali400MP2" GPUs to build all these cute little consoles, and they got a quote from the manufacturer saying it would cost 50 cents per unit. Good news: They recovered that 250 million cost by completely selling out! But they know the hype is going to die, and buying another 500 million seems like it might be overkill. Maybe they order 250 million. Except now that the order is smaller, the cost per unit has jumped up to 75 cents per unit (I am completely making these numbers up).

So it's a gamble that gets increasingly risky the longer you play. They already made a ton of money from the NES Classic, but as the hype dies, they'll have to make smaller orders and the cost per unit is going to increase. My guess is that they're still licking their wounds from what happened with the Wii. Those things sold shockingly well, until they woke up one morning and suddenly nobody wanted a Wii anymore. I bet that there was a very specific "oh shit" day at Nintendo HQ when they saw that Wii sales had plummeted while they had millions of optimistically-built units sitting in their warehouses.

To me, cancelling the NES Classic is a good example of "quit while you're ahead". I can't imagine how much the Wii is still burned into the memory of every executive at Nintendo. They built something so popular that it became a global social phenomenon, and then suddenly it just died, and they had their worst fiscal year in ages. Because they'd bought and assembled a bunch of Wiis that would never be sold.

I'll admit that this is way too long of a response to "WHY!?!?" but I do find it interesting. I'm only just starting to understand terms like "vertical integration" myself, but it does help to clarify why certain things are the way they are. Comparing Nintendo to Apple is very illuminating. Both companies have insane brand recognition, but they do business very differently. Ever since Steve Jobs died and Tim Cook became the CEO, people have been predicting the death of Apple. Instead, their stock price has more than doubled since the day he died. Jobs was the charismatic leader, but Cook is the king of the supply chain. He's pushed for vertical integration, and it's been working beautifully. Apple makes a crap product like the Watch? They just scale back production.

Because of vertical integration, Apple can fine-tune their manufacturing to such a precise degree that they'll keep selling Apple Watches right up until the last profitable watch is sold, even though it's clearly a failing product. On the other hand, Nintendo sells products that they don't build, so they have nowhere near the degree of granularity when it comes to predicting how their things will sell tomorrow. Neither company can predict the future, but Apple can change everything in a relative instant, while Nintendo has to make an educated guess about how the world is going to look 6 months down the line.

Also, I'm guessing the cancellation of the NES classic is going to conveniently correspond to a sudden influx of Classic NES games being sold for the Switch on the Nintendo eShop, along with various limited-edition consoles and themed peripherals. That being said, I fucking love Nintendo and hope I can die without seeing them go out of business. People who claim that the Switch is currently a $350 Zelda game are basically right, and I don't give a flying fuck. 100% worth it.

On a final note, if you wanted an NES Classic and couldn't get one or don't want to get price-gouged from a hoarder-reseller, I'd do this:

  1. Buy a Raspberry Pi 3
  2. Put it in an NES Case
  3. You could buy 2 USB NES Controllers for the price of a fancy sandwich, but why not class it up a bit and get some Bluetooth SNES Controllers? Also, if you have unused PS3 controllers laying around and don't mind the lack of authenticity, skip this step.
  4. Buy a microSD card (32 gb is massive overkill for NES ROMs, but if you bought nicer controllers then you'll probably find yourself wanting to try out some SNES/N64/Playstation games)
  5. Download lakka.tv and follow the very simple installation instructions.
  6. Get NES ROMs from the internet, they're almost easier to find than porn.

    Total cost (including the NES controllers and the microSD card) rounds up to $85. And a cheaper Pi will play NES games just fine, nor do you HAVE to buy the $20 NES-themed plastic case I just randomly found on Amazon. Plus you're not limited to the games that were included on the NES Classic, and once you get bored with playing 30 year-old games there are plenty of other things to do with a Pi... Like write unnecessarily long Reddit posts, which I've just finished doing!
u/Zeke_Z · 2 pointsr/photography

That's one of the best replies I have gotten on Reddit! Thank you for the detail! That car analogy is extremely accurate. Can confirm : dad's face when I told him, ha ha!

I agree with you on the filmmaker's kit, I don't know if I would be buying those exact things anyway.

That's sad about the bundles, but I guess that makes sense and I'm glad I know. So it would be better to buy the accessories separately, and just a get a camera/lens combo from amazon?

Should I get accessories all through Nikon or are there some reputable third parties?
I know I will need a couple batteries, a flash, carrying case, a couple filters, mic, and an XQD card. XQD cards are mandatory I would imagine, especially for 4k and high FPS photo shooting, but do I need 2? Can I use something like this for the second card slot? I'm gonna say that this card is a definitely no go, ha ha!

Based on what I want to do with this camera from above, what three lenses would you recommend starting out? Seems like a $1000 lens on a D7500 would take better photos than a $250 lens on a D850, so I won't cry in USD when I see your response and each lens is between $600 and $2000. I'd say a landscape lens, a macro lens, and a zoom lens are the type I would start with.

Thanks again for your reply and your time!

u/etaco · 8 pointsr/PiratedGames

First thing you need to ask is when did you buy your switch? If it’s June of this year or after it’s probably got a hardware patch and you can’t hack it. You can check here by serial number.

If your switch is exploitable then go on amazon and get yourself an sd card (may want bigger storage depending on how many games you’ll want) and a jig.
Alternatively, you could get an SX Pro, but unless you don’t mind spending extra money, it’s kind of overpriced and everything you need to do without it is pretty cheap and easy.

It’s easiest to let your switch format your sd card to exFat, but DON’T update to 6.2 FW yet. It’s cracked but CFW hasn’t been updated yet. set up 90DNS.This is so you can use internet apps like YouTube and even play some games online later on non-Nintendo servers without worrying about Nintendo detecting your mods. Also, FYI the switch lan play works on OFW and banned switches as well.

Then backup your clean NAND using hekate
VERY IMPORTANT you do this BEFORE you load any CFW or autoRCM for the first time. The only way you’ll ever be able to go back online to eShop and play online on official Nintendo servers is to restore your clean NAND backup (removing CFW). Also keep in mind your fuse count will need to be the same when restoring this so try not to update your FW (even using offline methods) unless you do it without burning fuses.

Then follow instructions here to setup ReiNX (CFW) and a few other important programs and settings you’ll need.

Then go get Smash and have fun!

u/majormoron747 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If you love comfort I would seriously look into a grip for the switch when you are using the console in portable mode. Look at either the Skull and Co. Gripcase, or the Satisfye grip. They both have cases that you can either get with it or separately depending on which you look at, so you can fit it all in properly. It has made handheld play a billion times better.



Also if you have a need for screen protectors still I highly recommend am film or orzly.

Micro SD cards, you don't need anything super fancy. The switch can't take advantage of high speed cards so something like this is fine, just pick the size you want. I recommend you just save up for at least a 128gb however, you will want the space eventually and why bother buying a bunch of different ones every time you run out of space:


Get a pro controller at some point. It's just a good controller to have. And then you can just leave your joycons attached to the console when you are home and docked. It's such a comfortable controller. Nintendo knows how to do pro controllers.

And finally get some good games my dude! Mario odyssey was my favorite from last year, BOTW being close second. Shovel Knight, Shante, and Sonic mania are all very good platformer ranging in difficulty. If you play with friends or family, you can't go wrong with Mario kart and party.

And last last tip, try to find a person that has a spot in a family plan that will let you join in. I got a family plan and added 6 friends and my wife to it, and they only pay 5 bucks a year for online! It's a no brainer.

Welcome to the family son.

u/ralfwolf · 3 pointsr/linuxquestions

If he's been talking about getting one, then you can't go wrong with a really basic kit. There are some kits with the micro-sd flash card but IMHO they charge too high of a premium for those. Here's a 32GB micro sd card I've used with no problems and very cost effective. From there, you will have to figure out what he wants to do with it. If he wants to run a media server for instance, you'll want to get a bigger micro sd card or get an external usb hdd. There are literally over 100 different sensors that can be used in Rpi projects so having some idea of what he wants to try would really help. Popular projects are things like pet feeders or light controllers or "magic mirrors". You can google and find detailed instructions and shopping lists for these types of projects. You can get him a starter set of common sensors like this or this for home automation. These kits are good if he doesn't know what he wants to do and just wants to tinker around but if he knows what project he wants to do, then it's better to get the basic kit and an amazon gift card so he can buy exactly what he needs.

A kit I always thought would be a cool gift for someone interested in Raspberry Pi is a retro gaming kit which will run old arcade games. The kit I linked has a usb drive with the game ROMs included but at a $10 premium. You can opt for the cheaper kit and download the ROMs from various sources online. This give him a something fun to start with and he can always pull the Rpi out and buy another flash and use it with sensors or other projects in the future.

u/ThomasChristo · 2 pointsr/Coachella

Also my first Coachella with my Hero 6!

I'm outfitting my Hero 6 with a 128GB Samsung MicroSD card.

For power, I'm bringing in two precharged spare batteries for a total of 3 batteries.

For my grip, I'm bringing in the handler as my grip. I thought about the Karma grip but it's kinda expensive and won't last the whole day in the fest; I also don't know how I would store it. What's important here is that you can't bring a grip that extends like a selfie-stick, those are banned from the grounds. If you have a hard time, kindly explain to the security guard that the grip doesn't extend and is fixed at 6-inches. I had a friend go to W1 last year with a Karma grip and she just explained that it didn't extend so she was good.

Since I'm bringing in a CamelBak, I wanted somewhere to place the GoPro when it's not on the grip and without having to worry about pickpocketers. I tried out several backpack clips like this one or this one but I essentially decided that I wanted to make sure it would quick-release to the grip for easy transitions. The clip that did have that feature broke pretty quickly so I'm going to try out this one and give it a shot with some velcro. It seems pretty sturdy. To get the camera fully upright, you're going to need a j-hook mount or a raised mount like the one included in the official mount set.

The alternative to any backpack solution is just unclip the GoPro into a fanny pack or a front pocket for safe keeping and store the grip into a backpack.

u/MoogleMan3 · 4 pointsr/gopro

Hero 7 black is the way to go. The hypersmooth stabilization makes it worth it.

Accessories to get:

First of all, get a gopro plus trial. It gives you 50% off of batteries and other accessories, but not chargers or microsd cards.

Grab a few extra batteries. With the trial, they're $10 each.

The dual bay charger is well worth the price.

These are the microsd cards I use in my H7B. They're fast, reliable and cheap. Also on gopro's recommended list of cards to use.

I use tempered glass protectors for the lens and rear screen and they don't affect video quality at all. They went on very easily and the lens cap is a nice bonus.

For a case, I currently use this one, but the official case looks good too.

I use this frame mount and love it. The front round piece can be removed if desired; I took it off as I don't need it for what I use my gopro for. It includes mounting options for both standard threaded mounts and gopro mounts. And the back slides on and off.

If you need a head mount, the amazonbasics one is identical to the official gopro branded mount aside from the logo (I have both).

Completely optional, but I really like these aluminum knobs over the standard plastic ones.


That about covers everything I use. Hope this helps some!

u/thesingingnerd · 4 pointsr/Denver

As others have stated, the A119 is awesome. Optional GPS and the video quality is top notch. If you want it on even when your car is off, you'll have to get a fuse adapter which you'll need to hardwire into your car. Relatively simple but requires some grunt work. Otherwise, you can run the USB cable to your cigarette lighter by removing the paneling around your windshield. Simple in every car though it can appear daunting. I went the cigarette lighter route and it took me all of 3 hours to get the whole thing installed. Make sure you get SpyTec though. The hardware is sold by a third party manufacturer and rebranded by several sellers. SpyTec has the best customer support and they use a little better housing. Also, make sure you get a high endurance micro sd made for being written over several hundred times before burning out. You'll want to replace it once a year depending on how much you drive. I use this guy. Enjoy the peace of mind!

Worth mentioning, some people will tell you not to get the GPS because you can incriminate yourself if you were speeding. But the police can pull your speed based on the road dashes, so you're gonna get nicked either way. So don't base your decision off that.

u/Slamdunkin48 · 3 pointsr/Switch

The switch definitely has the possibility for many accessories. I'll link all the stuff I've bought at the end because I would recommend all of them

There is built in storage but not enough. I will recommend any micro SD card that's either 64 or 128 gb depending on how many games you plan on downloading. If you're going mostly mobile eshop games would definitely be more convenient.

As for other items, I love my pro controller but its not a necessity. I also only use it at home so it might not be for you.

You need a case for it, no two ways about it. The good news is that they are pretty cheap. There's cases that just carry the console, that carry the console and some extras, and that carry pretty much everything you could want to carry. Unless you're taking the dock often, I would just suggest a case with some extra storage.

I'd suggest a battery bank. There are a million options out there, and most of it has to do with cost. Just buy a size you like from a trusted brand like anker, ravpower, or aukey.

You also need a screen protector, because the plastic screen is not exactly durable. Anything works, but I would recommend tempered glass.


Micro SD

Pro Controller

Battery Bank

Screen Protector

u/UCLAKoolman · 1 pointr/PickAnAndroidForMe

I upgraded from an iPhone 4S to a Note II last fall and still really enjoy this device. If battery is your concern, the Note 3 will likely have excellent battery life. And if the battery is removable like the S4/Note 2, you can easily swap in a spare and be right back at 100%. I use my Note 2 extensively throughout the day (emails, web browsing, 6 hrs of music streaming to a bluetooth speaker), and I have about 60% before I leave work and head to the gym. Then I swap in a fresh battery, stream Netflix/Pandora at the gym for ~2 hrs. It's really been quite liberating to not have to worry about battery life with a phone.

For music, you can throw in a 64 GB MicroSD card (I bought this one from amazon for ~$40 on sale) into the S4/Note 3 and load it up with tons of media. The S4 can transfer apps to the SD card now (and I imagine the Note 3 will have this option as well). Also, the recent Google Play Music app apparently lets you save music to the SD card as well!

My GF has the Galaxy S3, and the Note 2 was a pretty good performance upgrade from that device. I wouldn't be surprised if the Note 3 performs better than the S4 and HTC One, which will both be a few months old by the fall. Honestly though, all those devices will be great for mobile gaming. With the Note you do get the added screen real-estate, so using your hands with on-screen controls won't block much of the display.

u/Chokaay · 2 pointsr/Switch

I think most of your questions depend on how you plan to use your Switch. For me, 99.9% of the time I use it in handheld mode, so accessories important for my usage are different than someone who primarily uses it in docked mode.


u/BFCE · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Thanks for scraping this up to make your kids happy. Video games are one of the best pass times in the world, and I may not have ever became a programmer, had my dad not gotten me into video games. While the up-front expense is high, the hours-per-dollar of entertainment is only surpassed by books.

I could suggest tons of things to make the experience better, but you're already dropping around $300 on a console. Right out of the box, you'll be able to download free games from the eShop (like Fortnite, and soon brawlhalla. Look around that section), but I HIGHLY recommend you get a 2nd controller, so they don't have to share when the switch is stationary and a few games like Super Mario Odyssey, Splatoon 2, Mario Kart 8, and the new Mario Party game (whenever it comes out)

If your kids will take the switch around, I'd recommend getting a case, and a 3rd party dock that can work with the case on.. and later down the line I'd recommend trying to find a MicroSD card to slot into it. You may have one lying around, but if you don't, you can check out these

u/ohiotech · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I have an idea for a retro pie project for a Head2Head gaming rig for my kids. I'd like some input to help ease the pain of my shopping for parts, or for the mod itself. It came about because of their love to play the Star Wars Battleship game.

I have, or have already purchased:

  • Double Sided Case
  • Raspberry Pi 3b
  • 3.5mm splitter (4 way)
  • 3.5mm speaker
  • 2x SNES type controllers *USB)

    Still need to get/consider:

  • 128GB for Retro Pie image/roms Looking at this card
  • 2x 10.1 displays Looking at this display
  • Have yet to decide on Arcade joystick/buttons and controller for the use with the Pi. I'm open to suggestions.
  • Want to be able to use the arcade controls for the MAME games, but USB SNES controllers for anything else. The looms need to be able to do head2head and not just side to side. I'm not adverse to making them myself.
  • HDMI splitter will allow display image to be mirrored on both screens
  • Want P1 toggle for power to the system and only one side of the case. Want P2 toggle to provide power to the second display. I would love it to provide power to the entire second side of the case, but will accept only the display. P2 side will have no power toggles.
  • I expect that I'll need a slim/travel power strip installed in the case to provide power to the displays to hide their power supplies.
  • Segment space inside the center part of the case to support "tucking in" the main power supply cord so it doesn't get dragged when carrying the case around.
  • Smoked plexiglass to cover the display sides of the case.
  • Materials and hardware to make a small platform to mount the arcade controls on each side, and create a small removable lid with access to storage space next to the buttons.

    This is obviously not an overnight project, nor everything needed. I'll be documenting as much of it along the way; up until completion. I want to make a video of the progress for my kids to go back and watch when all is said and done, but am also going to make a "movie trailer" version of the video for them to highlight the project's documentation.

    Thank in advance, and please let me know if I need to delete this post from here and place it somewhere else that would provide any gainful advice.

    Thanks y'all.

    Edit1: Formatting

    Edit2: Adding old Concept Drawing
u/Xarian0 · 2 pointsr/arduino
  1. No, the Teensy has a DAC (digital to analog converter) built in. You will only need separate components if you want an amplifier for bigger speakers (you probably won't). The prop shield you linked also has an amplifier.
  2. You can use a microcontroller with pre-soldered headers (like the one you linked). Otherwise, no. Soldering is kind of like writing - you just need to do it sometimes. There are techniques you can use to make it easier; if you're inexperienced, there's a good chance you're making things harder on yourself.

  3. Mini Power Switch - ok, but might not fit your wires without soldering

    Jumper wire - Those are rigid, not really suitable for your project. You want something like this. I use them; they are good as long as you stick with the rigid pins/sockets and don't try to cut them in half to solder onto the thin wires.

    Buttons - ok, but check that their size is what you want

    Resistors - ok

    LEDs - wouldn't you want colored ones?

    LED holder - ok

    Breadboard - ok

    LED driver - if you use one of these, you won't need resistors (they are built into the module). Make sure you find a driver that has enough channels for your project.

    Teensy Header Kit - you won't need these, and they're made for the 3.2 anyway (much smaller)

    Prop Shield - Useful but be careful about compatibility with the 3.6: you will still need wires to make up for the fact that it doesn't overlap completely with the 3.6. Check here. Notice that the pins are 1x14, 1x14, 2x5, and 1x4. You can make a frankenstein with stackable headers, but I'd recommend using a combination of these and focusing on wires + extra breadboards if you have to. You will have to solder.

    Teensy w/ headers - ok

    MicroSD card - don't waste your money on cheap, small SD cards made by weird off-brand companies. Anything below 16 GB is the same price - around $6.50. You can spend an extra $2 and bump to a 32 GB

    You forgot speakers.

    You may also want to check out some illuminated buttons
u/mundozeo · 12 pointsr/Switch

Be mindful of what accessories you personally need. People needs are different. The only global accessories that seem to be useful to everyone:

  1. A screen protector. This applies to pretty much any tablet accessory where the screen is not covered by design (like the 3DS clam shell). This is the one I got and it works well ($9.00):


  2. A carrying case. Being portable, odds are you will want to take it out at some point. Seeing it's an expensive piece of hardware, it makes sense to have a case to put everything in it for protection. You can buy the neat ones with colors and crazy designs and space, but for me, this basic one works perfectly fine ($13.00):


  3. An extra charger. Unless you already have a Type C charger, you will likely want to get one. Usually goes for $15.00.


  4. If, and ONLY if you plan to get your games digitally, you WILL want an additional memory card. The one I paste below has enough space for at least 20 games given the average game space that we've seen so far (BoTW takes 14 GB, but Mario Odyssey takes 5.5 Gb, so in average, it evens out.). Note this is only the games you can have installed at a time, you can always remove one or more if you want to download another one, and games you purchase digitally will always be available for re download as long as the eshop exists.


    Any other accessory should REALLY be considered on a need-to basis. Not everyone needs a pro controller (depending on the games you play, I've been fine without it with only BoTW, Mario Kart, Fate/Extella and Mario+Rabbids.), and not everyone needs an extra, improved stand/dock.

    Finally, do some research on what games you will actually want to play. What I've seen is that games on the switch are NOT cheap, and unless you have extra disposable income, buying a game you don't really play can lower your overall appreciation of the system. Not only that, but because releases are sparse at the moment, it's easier to jump into the hype in order to keep using your shiny new hardware. Though that really applies to any console.
u/MasterInterface · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Since it sounds like you have a tight budget, this is my recommendation:

  1. Yes to case if you are bringing that out often. Otherwise, skip the case.

  2. I recommend this MicroSD card since it's a good price for a decent card. I don't really recommend cheaping out on MicroSD card with read speed below 80mb since it could impact game performance: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Select-Memory-MB-ME128DA-AM/dp/B01DOB6YW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488044138&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+select

  3. Battery pack - Skip for now. Until there are more information on what battery will work safely on the Switch, you may end up with something that can end up being incompatible. My prefer brand is Anker. Again, if you don't plan on bringing the Switch out often, skip it.

  4. Don't get the Pro controller, not yet. It doesn't look like you will be building up a collection of intensive games.

  5. Skip digital only games. Wait for sales on eShop card. Best Buy or Ebay have sales on digital currency once in a while.

  6. Mario Kart 8 is a good game. If you're looking for a meatier game, Splatoon 2? (But keep in mind that starting Fall, online play will require subscription). I also recommend Puyo Puyo Tetris.

    If you're playing to spend at least $120 in games in the next two years, I recommend getting a GCU membership at Best Buy. The 20% saving will cover the $30 membership fee after 3 games at $60, plus ~$2-3 in saving.

    The discounts also stack on sales and other discounts (except BF deals). GCU also works on Amiibos.

    And if you wait for the Visa Checkout promo (about once every month or two), you can easily achieve 40% off on new games, day 1.
u/bigylittle · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
  • Screen Protector. I suggest a tempered glass screen protector
  • SD Card. Dpending on how committed you are to digital vs. physical, a 64gb or 128gb should hold you over. Wait for them to go on sale, they go on sale pretty often.
  • Carrying case. I recommend the ButterFox carrying cases, they come in different sizes so pick one that suits you.
  • A stand. By stand I mean something that will hold your Switch and provide access to the USB port for charging. Some recommend the Hori play stand, for me that's a bit too bulky and went with one meant for cellphones, works wonders.
  • Portable battery pack, look for ones with at least 2.1A output to sustain gameplay when charging.
  • Pro controller, it's essential on most games, literally night and day from the joy cons. I suggest getting the Xenoblade version because it has an updated D-Pad that the original has.
  • Another dock, theres a lot of controversy here. There are 3rd party options out there they have been noted as dangerous to your Switch and may brick it and render it useless. From my experience, I've had great success with the Nyko dock and the Best Buy Insignia dock, use these at your own risk. You could play it safe and buy another official Nintendo dock. it's not as cheap however.

    Links for all the items I got for your reference:
    Screen Protector
    Memory Card
    Battery Pack
    Pro Controller
    Nyko Dock

u/stan_qaz · 2 pointsr/pihole

I tried using an older Pi to host my pi-hole and compared it to a newer 3b+ and found no real difference in DNS lookups, but updates and the web interface were a lot slower and some things would run out of memory on the really old Pi. Ordered a second 3b+ and replaced the old Pi.

Power supply quality is critical, get a good one from Adafruit or Canakit.

A case is important to protect the Pi from damage, something simple is good enough, a dog-bone style works well and is a bit cooler if you have a safe place to mount the Pi, a more fully enclosed one is safer if the Pi is going to be banging around with a bunch of other stuff. Cooler really doesn't matter in a home install unless you are going to add something to your Pi that will cause it to run hot, fans, heatsinks and such really aren't needed.

SD cards are cheap, Samsung or Sandisk 32 GBs are excellent and you save pennies by going cheaper or smaller.

For Ethernet there is little difference in cables for the lengths you'll be using, and standard cable will work, get one a couple feet longer than the minimum and you'll have slack to work with.

So Pi, power supply, case, SD card and Ethernet cable will get you set up with a very nice Pi-hole.

u/biffdotorg · 1 pointr/gopro

I'm not sure why SanDisk came out with their 200GB and 400GB Ultra cards, but when I bought my Hero 7 Black last year, I knew I was going to be recording more high res. So I wanted to test one out to see if it had enough speed.


So I put in an order for the SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSDXC UHS-I card with Adapter - 100MB/s on Amazon for like $30 and the 400GB was literally twice the price. I come to find they work really well and are more than fast enough. I have standardized on 2.7K 60fps for most of my shooting and I have yet to have issues.


Keep in mind, the 7 black has more internal memory, and faster processor, so it may be able to get by with slower cards. I have not tested this card in my Hero 4 black or SLR. So your mileage may vary.


So if you insist on getting bigger cards, these won't break the bank. Having the space and not using it is much better than running out of space when the right shot comes along. But everyone else is right here, it's overkill on size. But it's not like these are $100 cards anymore.


Good luck

u/courtneymcnerdy · 4 pointsr/TeslaModel3

LOVE this little hedgehog! AND CONGRATS! I just got mine a week ago and I'm the happiest person ever.

- Floor mats (Not from Tesla directly but fit GREAT and great price point. High quality.) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QWJZK6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- USB for recording when in Sentry mode and grabbing the recordings on the road - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTQZS4F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B984HJ5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- A charger with an L shape so you can have your phone charge without the cord sticking out and it'll look sleeker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQJ3KPT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Can't wait to see pics of her! Got a name picked out?!

u/Izzy248 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

>Awesome thanks lol. And yeah Im thinking of going with this:
> https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-128GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=micro+sd+card+128&qid=1574515038&s=electronics&sr=1-3
>Which looks to be a class 10, at least as far as I can tell. And yeah I usually prefer my games physical, but for the Switch Im pretty sure Im going to be using it mostly as a handheld system, and Im a bit of a butterfingers which is why for my New 3DS I pretty much went all digital for that system. Just to avoid constantly swapping out my games and potentially losing one while traveling or at a friends house lol.
>I have another question for you though. When I was reading up on it, it said that the system can be expanded to have up to 2TB of memory. The wording confused me a bit. Im thinking in terms of every other system where you have to outright replace the memory unit. But this sounds like the initial 32 is embedded, and you have something like additional slots to fit the extra SD cards. Is that true?

u/Remyhawk · 2 pointsr/3DS

Hello friends,

I'm getting my first new 2DS XL and was hoping for some recommendations on SD cards. I was looking at the following:



I was looking at these two things, although the official Nintendo site recommends the Sandisk Extreme which is:


but it's slightly more expensive than the original Sandisk one I posted so if the original one works, I would rather go with that.

But those were my ideas. Maybe if someone has a better recommendation or can confirm these are the best ways to go? Also, I notice that people are using even bigger cards as long as they're formatted properly, is there a recommendation for those and how hard would it be to reformat it properly? It sounds way more convenient than having multiple 32gb cards to swap!

Thanks again!

u/VincibleAndy · 1 pointr/Surface

Depends on the speed of the SD card but a lot of them are pretty fast now. Get the fastest you can afford with the capacity you need. The Sandisk and Samsung ones are great. Something like this.

I use it for spare files and my steam games. Works pretty awesome.

u/rodfather · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've been going overboard with accessories. Here's what I picked up so far:

Glass screen protector - Just in case.

128GB microSD card - I rarely buy physical games

Pro Controller - I love it. So comfortable.

PowerA Hybrid Case - I basically use this as a stand for my Switch when I'm on the go.

JDeal portable dock - It works. Make sure to follow the instructions. Works with my Nexus5x 5v 3A portable charger.

[Retractable HDMI cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019J96PSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Hestia case - The Switch with the PowerA Hybrid Case, portable dock, portable USB-C charger, and retractable HDMI cable all fit in this.

USB 3.0 LAN Adapter - Faster speeds when on the official dock.

Gooseneck tablet holder - Ultimate comfort. Play while in bed.

Magic NS Wireless Adapter - I had originally bought this so I could use my PS4 controller. This was before I picked up the Pro Controller. It works. There was a recent firmware update that gives gyro support for PS4 controllers and it works well with Splatoon 2.

On the way:

Mumba case - For better comfort/protection while playing in handheld mode.

u/Twilightsojourn · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Hmm, so both the U number and the circle number are write speeds? Confusing, but good to know.

So on this card for example, the read speed isn't on the card, but digging through the description tells me 80 MB/s (if I'm understanding it correctly) -- that's the number I'm looking for to see if it'll actually play games well? And do you think that speed would work well for playing games on the Switch, or would it be advisable to try and find one a little higher?

It's funny -- I hadn't thought about it this way before, but as a photographer and video producer, I'm realizing that the specification numbers that were most important to me were the write speeds, since that was the bottleneck for capturing my footage at the highest quality possible. In this situation, I need the inverse, but it's a little tricky to find that info! Thanks again for all your guidance.

u/idontloveanyone · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

in general, i would not recommend off brands like those...
Just the fact that the brand isn't one of the top brands (samsung or sandisk), so I don't really trust it.
Also all 4 ratings are 5 stars, and posted on the same day, they could definitely be fake, beware of offbrands, lots of fake ones being sold.

Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HRDM55/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

This is a great 256gb one, and it's 40$ (only 16$ more than the one you linked). Sure it;s more expensive, but you can trust it blindly.

You dont want ot risk loosing all your data on a "Boston" sd card, just for a few bucks right?

Also, the one you linked is U1, while the one I linked is U3. U3 is better, faster.

Thats what i recommend, do whatever you please :)

I personally am waiting for Black Friday to get the 512gb version of the one I linked. I imagine it'll drop around 50$ by then :)

u/Magillif · 2 pointsr/3DS


This is the SD card that I got. It is 32 GB. For the price difference between 16 and 32 (~$4), I thought 32 was worth it. I did not have to reformat it or anything. It was great. No problems thus far.

If you're interested, I have 13 GB left and have installed:

  • Monster Hunter Gen
  • Paper Jam
  • ACNL
  • Fire Emblem Awakening
  • Fantasy Life
  • Rune Factory 4
  • Mario Kart 7
  • Bravely Default (and Second)
  • Story of Seasons
  • Harvest Moon: A New Beginning
  • Pokemon Y
  • Happy Home Designers
  • Random stuff that doesn't consume much data (pushmo, SNES converts, pocket jockey, etc.)

    For 10-20 games, I'm inclined to say you might be more satisfied with a 32 GB SD. Hope that helps! Happy gaming :)
u/____----___---__--_- · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

What we know:

The built in storage is 32GB.
The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild is approximately 13.4 GB.

What we do not know:

How big VC games, DLC, etc will be.

With that being said micro sd cards are relatively cheap for the capacity a 128GB one is on Amazon for ~$40 (US With Prime, free shipping tax not included). Eventually we'll start to see cheaper 256+GB cards (right now the same make/model but 256GB is nearly $200!).

So 40 bucks to add 4x more capacity to the system knowing that a game like BotW takes about 40% of the internal storage seems like a good bet/idea even if you plan on getting only physical games (or a majority of physical games.)

What I do hope is that in the future there's an easy way to copy data (or that there's nothing preventing us from just using our PCs to copy data from card to hdd to card or even card to card if you have the ability to have two microsd cards mounted at once) so that when 512+gb cards are cheap in a few years it's relatively painless to do a capacity upgrade.

Tl:dr: 128GB cards are cheap and add a ton of capacity, no reason to not grab one imho.

*EDIT -- The Amazon.com $40 microsd card: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Select-Memory-MB-ME256DA-AM/dp/B01DOB6YW4?th=1

u/CryptoNoob-17 · 2 pointsr/drones

> 1. Do you find that the video it shoots is mostly acceptable without adjusting things like color, temperature, contrast, sharpness, and white balance? If not, how and why?

For most people it should be fine. There are 3 picture settings you can adjust in the camera, Contrast, Sharpness & Saturation. If you are not going to color correct the video afterwards you should adjust these settings until you think the video looks good. The reason I adjust my picture settings to [-1] for all 3 of them, is to get the video flat with low contrast so that I can adjust them more accurately inside my video edit program. If you adjust the color settings while out in the sun with glare on your phone screen, it can be difficult to get the contrast and stuff right. If you have it too high, you lose pixel detail in your shadows (they turn black). By having the contrast low, you have more leeway before the colors "go off the scale" and gets clipped off either towards black in the shadows or towards white in the clouds if you are shooting in the sun's direction. It's similar to the reason I, and any amateur to pro photographers take pictures in RAW format, then edit in Lightroom.

> 2. Does it avoid obstacles when auto-returning to base? In other words, if I am on the other side of some trees and almost out of battery, will it bee-line back to base and hit the trees or go over them?

It has a setting you can have on or off to avoid obstacles during "return to home". You can also adjust the altitude it goes up to before starting to return home. Mine is set at 30m (90ft) and haven't had any problems with trees.

> 3. Is there a recovery feature in case it goes down when it is far from me? GPS/map? A beep for finding it via sound?

Yes I've had to use that feature a couple of times. In the DJIgo4 app there's a feature "Find my drone". It opens up a map, you turn on your phone's GPS and can see the last known position of your drone on the map. You also see yourself as an arrow and just keep walking in the direction of the line that connects you to your drone until you find it. It's accurate to a couple of feet, In that same "find my drone" window there's a button you can press to activate the flashing lights and beeping sound. It also gives you the GPS coordinates of your drone. The DJIgo4 app didn't work for me when I don't have cell signal, so I had to search for the coordinates on Google Maps where I have downloaded offline maps. You can also download offline maps for the DJIgo4 app.

> 4. What resolution is the final footage of that "asteroid" spherical pano animation feature?

I've only used it once. It's a 1920x1080 MP4. 1080p Full HD.

> 5. Is there a video format option that is less compressed than MP4, or is that the only option?

There's 2 formats to choose from. MP4 and MOV. Choice of 2 codecs (H.264/MPEG-4 AVC) Not sure if you can use both codecs with both file types, it might be MP4=H264 and MOV=MPEG-4
There's no noticeable difference in compression.
This comment in the DJI Forum sums it up nicely.

>"Think of MOV/MP4 as just a container for your video content. The containers are almost identical, they use the same lossy compression standards so the video content will be the same. However, the MOV container was designed for use in an Apple environment. For example, on a Apple Mac you can easily convert a MOV file to MP4 without having to change the video encoding. If you try and do this in Windows it can be complex. MP4 is more universal in that its supported by many operating systems and media players.
In real world terms, it depends on what platform you are editing your content. If its an Apple ecosystem go with MOV. Anything else use MP4."


> 6. One of the tutorials explains the "Cinelike D" mode as making it possible to enable future color grading more easily. Was that explained inaccurately or not? If not, what is the reason color grading is more easily attained using that mode?

Cinelike D is what I use because I color grade. In video editing there are things called 'scopes'. They are like the histogram found in cameras and photoshop software. It's a more technical way of looking at the colors in a video. It has a scale from 0 to 1024. If your contrast and saturation settings in the drone is set too high, some parts of the video will have too bright or too dark colors that fall outside 0-1024. A color with a "brightness value" of 1030, gets clipped at 1024. So any detail that was in there gets lost and you have bright white colored clouds. What Cinelike D does, and most of the other "flat" profiles like D-LOG, is that the colors get compressed towards the middle of this 0-1024 scale. Let's say your maximum brightness on the scale is around 800, if you move your drone towards the sun, the video will get brighter around some clouds and around the sun. If your brightness was already maxed out near 1024, then after getting the sun in your shot it is definitely going to overexpose the clouds. But because you had Cinelike D on, you have some room to work with. When you make it darker in editing you will bring out all the detail, If they were overexposed, you would just make a big area of white darker, into flat gray looking clouds.

> 7. How many times can you use a battery before you start to see a significant degradation of capacity?

I don't know. My batteries show they have been charged 34 times since March 2018, and I haven't seen any less flight time.

> 8. I'm reading that I need a "Class 10" micro SD card. Is that true? (I plan to shoot 4K/30 or 1080/60)

Yes. I have a Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSD EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM)
^(Up to 100MB/s & 90MB/s read & write speeds respectively; Class 10 UHS 3)
^(High-performance for 4K UHD video recording, high resolution pictures, mobile gaming and music, for use in Smartphones, Drones, Android Tablets, Tablet PCs, Action Cameras, DSLRs)

> 9. Should I get a 128GB or larger? Or should I get multiple 64GB cards?

I've never filled up my card. I just like having the extra space if/when I use my drone on travels and I'm not close to a computer. I would get a 128GB rather than 2 x 64GB. Just because the hassle of flying your drone back to you to change the SD card, when you had the drone in position to get a nice shot but only have 50MB of space left.

> 10. Is the refurbished model on the DJI website worth it? Can you think of any reasons not to get that one?

lol. I'm the wrong person to ask about buying refurbished products. I don't do it anymore. I've had too much bad luck buying refurbished. For me the little discount you get isn't worth it. Some of the refurbished stuff I bought didn't last long before the problem that caused it to need repairs came back.

> 11. Is there anything you wish was different or that you think could be improved? Any deal-killers that might shift me towards a different model or maker?

Nothing that I can think of that's bad. It's a great drone. The compact size is a good selling point for me.

u/PleySteshon · 1 pointr/WiiUHacks

Another issue came up. Please help me out. I've got some games to work with my 32gb SD card with Loadiine. I switched off to 64gb (http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-064G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q588D4/ref=zg_bs_3015433011_3/191-2805409-8756006), and now I having issue to starting Loadiine. I get stuck with white background and WiiU logo on bottom right. This is how I start Loadiine.

-reset browser

-goto loadiine site

-step1, start illuminati

-go back to browser

-step2, launch homebrew

This method does not seem to work anymore...

I'm on 5.5.1, have gx2 files in app folder.


EDIT: I'm sorry to ask so many questions on this sub. But any help will be appreciated :)

EDIT2: Does 64gb work with WiiU at all?

switching back to 32gb works flawlessly. DO NOT use Sandisk 64gb (link on this post). It will never launch HB or Loadiine no matter what. I hope next Loadiine version can implement this feature so all SD sizes/brands can be used.


u/VoomPeng · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I looked up Pitendo and my god is that a ripoff, there's maybe 60 bucks worth of things there. Here, look:



And whichever one of these you want https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=usb+controller

Is all you need, and you can honestly go for a Pi 2 Model B if you want to, and a smaller sd card maybe. Everything but the most demanding Dreamcast and N64 games work great on a 2, and N64 hardly works regardless of the model.

Honestly it's not a difficult set up, at least in my opinion. There's some troubleshooting you can do if you try and work out some more advanced things, but the basic set up is a breeze.

All you do is download the RetroPie image from the site, download Win32DiskImager, and write it to the card. It takes about 30 seconds to set up and maybe 3 clicks total.

After that, you put the microsd card into the pi, plug in your controllers, boot it up, follow the on screen controller config, and you're good to go.

Adding roms is as easy as putting in \\Retropie into any explorer window on you computer, if the pi is on your network, and dropping them into the console's folder. Everything else should be auto-configured and require little to no work on your end.

u/foogles · 2 pointsr/SBCGaming

This is my favorite set up to give friends. Looks good and mostly foolproof hardware wise!

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B

Rasptendo SNES Case (IMO, connect the power button as intended, but either solder the reset button as per the method mentioned in there or don't connect it at all. This way there's no way for the user to do a non-safe shutdown of the OS)

Dual fan heatsink

Bluetooth adapter (more reliable than built-in bluetooth, change /boot/config.txt to disable onboard Bluetooth)

PS3 SIXAXIS Controller (Dualshock 3's work too, but I like the legit OEM ones, and those are hard to find. The convincing bootlegs/fakes are usually impossible to tell apart from legit ones when ordering online. That's why I look for used SIXAXIS controllers - no bootlegs. Also, I use PS3 controllers because pairing can be done or re-done entirely by connecting up mini-USB cables. No menus necessary once you set it up the first time!)

Sandisk 64GB MicroSD

Canakit PSU

HDMI cable, Mini-USB cable.


For a more serious, less user-friendly but more overclockable setup, ditch the case/heatsink above and go with these instead:

Some kind of heatsink, I'm using one from the Kintaro case but I suspect the cheap stick-on heatsinks are probably fine too

this open-air case (throw out the fan as it's way too loud... I'm sure other open-air cases will work but I like that this one has the 40mm setup for the below fan and the little grille to prevent curious fingers from getting in there at least)

this Noctua 40mm 5v fan (expensive, but quiet and provides solid cooling)

u/ubergeek77 · 3 pointsr/VitaPiracy

I already have a 128GB Class U-3 Samsung card, and I'm perfectly happy with it. But, if I were to buy a bigger one, I'd get this one, no question:


For a class U-1 microSD card, I'd say ~$80 is a very reasonable price. You probably won't notice the difference between Class U-1 and Class U-3 speeds, but I would highly recommend only getting a card that's class 10 or higher. If you get anything slower, especially class 2 or 4, you'll likely notice long load times in some games. That can get annoying pretty fast. Plus, when you're transferring games from your computer, especially en masse, you will definitely care about speeds more than you would while playing.

Oh, and about other brands, or getting something cheap from AliExpress, I would highly recommend that you don't do that. I've only had to make that mistake a few times before ever doing it again. For some reason, knock off cards are a gamble when it comes to quality, and I always end up with the junk ones :/

Happy hoarding!

u/MentalPackage · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Get him a screen protector, any that say they are "tempered glass" should be good.


Gte him a carrying case, I've got this one, it's good enough and portable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS7AI9G/


Get him the 2 games you know he wants, then get him a gift $50 (or higher) eShop card if you don't mind spending the money.


If you want to really impress, and you haven't gone broke yet, get him a Pro Controller as well, you guys can play together more comfortably too, you with the two joycons, him with his pro controller https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Switch-Pro-Controller/dp/B01NAWKYZ0/


Oooh, and a Micro SD card, at LEAST 128GB ($20) or higher https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-400GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/


Let him open it first, and run the updates and set it all up, to me, and as a result, my kids too, it's part of the fun of getting a new electronic toy.

u/IsItPluggedInPro · 3 pointsr/ShittyTechSupport

I also don't know if you are serious, and this sub isn't for real advice, but nonetheless, here's how you can do it.

  1. Get one or more of a simple, easy to use mp3 player such as the SanDisk Clip Jam.

  2. Buy a name-brand (such as SanDisk, Samsung, or Kingston) microSDHC card up to 32 GB.

  3. Buy songs/tracks as DRM-free AAC files from iTunes and MP3s from Amazon.com. The tracks/files from those two services do not rely on having an account anywhere after you download them.

  4. Download and save the the tracks/files from iTunes and/or Amazon MP3 somewhere on your computer.

  5. Copy the files to the microSD card.

  6. Insert the microSD card into the player.

  7. Give the player to your parents.

  8. Show them how to use the player. Show how them to insert and remove the microSD card. To give them additional or different songs, exchange microSD cards with them as needed or give them additional microSD cards as needed.


  9. Install Chrome on their computer.

  10. Install and configure the Chrome Remote Desktop add-on on their conputer and your own computer.

  11. Test Chrome Remote Desktop to control their computer from your computer. You will use it at the very least to assist them if they have questions/need help.

  12. Show them how to how to use mp3 player and how to connect it to their computer.

  13. Either:

  14. Use Chrome Remote Desktop to connect and control their computer and using an account of your choice, open Amazon MP3 or iTunes, and buy and download the tracks.

  15. Or, teach them how to buy and download the tracks. Amazon and iTunes lets you create sub accounts that you control, so you could create a sub account for your parents and load money into it.

  16. Have them connect the MP3 player to the computer.

  17. Either transfer the tracks over to the player using remote control, or teach your parents how to do that.
u/BrainSlugs83 · 1 pointr/windows10iot

The cards I have aren't fake, I've tested them using FakeFlashTest. (And lots of cheap "deals" on various websites totally are fake cards, including some of the amazon ships; I've been burned a few times in the past, so I always check new cards now.)

The card I'm currently using is a multi-colored one like you mention, it's one I've used in a lot of other devices with great success. -- So I'm pretty sure it's not the card itself being "bad". -- Specifically, it's this card, sold directly by amazon, and not one of their member-run shops: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57T02/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My thought is actually that maybe the UHS driver in Windows 10 IoT isn't compatible with all manufacturer's implementations, so that's why I was wondering about the specific card you bought.

If you can find a good amazon link for the cards you have, I'd be grateful.

u/Restfulleo23 · 17 pointsr/homelab

So setting up my cluster I purchased 3 Raspberry Pis on amazon, a network switch, and a 6 port usb charger all found below:

u/Enemy_Zero · 1 pointr/dreamcast

Also, did you download the root file from the usbgdrom site? There's a file that has to be on the USB in order for it to run properly.

If you have, move on to USB sticks. I ordered a couple different USB drives before I found one that would work. The one I've actually had the best luck with is a USB microsd reader. I put a 400GB micro sd in it and it works perfect.

Here's the one I'm using:
CY Mini Size 5Gbps Super Speed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016W4M5BE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And the micro sd card:
SanDisk Ultra 400GB microSDXC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Good luck.

u/your_best_pal · 1 pointr/SwitchHacks

Guys, what's a good place to buy a hardware jig online?

Also to sanity check:

  1. I am about to buy a switch with serial number XAJ70011xxxxxx. It's hackable, right?
  2. I will buy this SD card for lasting pleasure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074RNRM2B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
  3. Do I need extra controller for local play with a friend? Or stock ones are good enough for duo play?
  4. Anything else I forgot to buy/do? usb-c to usb-a cable? card-reader to connect my sd card to my windows10 pc?

u/FD4L · 2 pointsr/3DS

You can purchase it however/whenever you like but i suggested amazon because I found their price on small electronic goods to always be very competitive. Purchasing from a local retailer you'll likely end up paying a premium price and i read further down that you're an Aussi so that premium might be ridiculous compared to what people in NA pay.


Did you decide on where you are going to purchase your 3ds XL? I know amazon often offers the SNES edition at a good price. Here are some amazon AUS links for what were discussing, hope it helps.






Edit: To save you a click; The New 3DSXL is listed at $290 AUSD and the 32GB micro SD is $13.59

u/dnask8 · 1 pointr/LosAngeles

This is the cam, the reviews weren't great and I took a gamble but I am happy with it. Came with a mini usb cable, a car charger cable and the whole window mount. Totally worth the dough:


Here is the card. I got a class 10 so the write speed would for sure be capable of the 1080p.


I tried to run the cam at 720 but it looked fuzzy so I bumped it up to 1080p. I have it set to do 5 minute segments the whole time and each file is usually right around 1GB each. When plugged into a cig lighter that only has power when the car is on the cam starts itself and starts recording when it gets power and goes until you shut it off/loses power. I just set it and forget style on my window and pull the card when I see something interesting along the drive to save. It just overwrites the oldest files if you don't do anything with them.

u/JosephLeo · 2 pointsr/RetroGamePorn

Or funny to think how if you got just two large modern games with all DLC, say something like Battlefield 4, and Grand Theft Auto V you've just used up just as much space as all of those thousands of games on every game console and handheld released before the PS1, Neo Geo, PS2, GameCube, and Xbox.

Also funny to think that with a 200GB microSDXC card you can fit the entire library of thousands of games on the NES, SNES, N64, GB, GBC, GBA, Sega SMS, Genesis, and Game Gear libraries in a portable device that fits in your pocket that lasts for hours...with room to spare....for about $135.


$114.99 - Sandisk 200 GB microSDXC Card

$19.99 - BEBONCOOL Wireless Bluetooth Control for Android (I love this one because it fits in my pocket when not in use)


I bought those just recently, still waiting for them in the mail. Who needs a 3DS! I can't wait until I can fit the GameCube & PS1 libraries on my phone. Maybe I can do a dropbox thing...are there any good emulators for mobile for them?

u/WASSHOI · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Honestly, I'd just get this (I picked one up myself)



You won't need the extra performance for the Switch, but it's objectively a better for the same price so why not? It future proofs it for whatever reason. Say an updated Switch comes out that can utilize it (not likely, but hypothetical) or you just upgrade from 128 and repurpose your "old" Switch card as backup storage for your PC or something. Like you, I tried finding deals for new Switch memory cards specifically but this seems to be the best overall deal I could find. In normal circumstances, the U1 card would probably be cheaper and the better buy if you're using it exclusively for the Switch; but considering this is just an upgrade for the same price there's not really a reason to look at the U1.

u/antrino · -1 pointsr/PSP

Going out on a limb.

The E1000/street is just vastly superior when it comes down to my needs. I've always hated the overall design of the later PSPs, especially with the glossy fingerprint-infested surfaces, The black-silver-black "sandwich" look and the transparent L/R triggers doesn't help either.

Its part of why I love the E1000, The matte finish and the all-black monolithic aesthetic is just so well done imo. Though it has similar bulkiness of the 1000, Its also slightly lighter and feels more natural held in hand (8oz) compered to the 1000 (10oz) & 2000/3000 (6.5oz) with the same reasons as OP. There's no noticeable ghosting even when playing gameboy games on an emulator and the horrible interlacing issues from the 3000 are gone, so I'd say the screen is on par with the Go but larger.

The mono speaker and other gimped features of the E1000 doesn't phase me, as I always use earphones anyway and my brand new Vita Slim already fulfills those other roles. My E1000 is my go-to device for playing psp games released only on UMD, ps1 games not on psn, Homebrew, and as my main emulation station.

Now I would of kept my PSP-Go for all that as well, but the big turn off for me was its proprietary memory stick that only goes up to 16gb, that plus its internal memory is only 32gb. That's not enough for me. In my E1000 is a PhotoFast MS Pro Duo Dual Slot adapter with two 64 GB microSDXC cards totaling up to 118gb of glorious free space in my PSP E1000.

Join the master race, get an E1000.

edit: Yup, thought so.

u/dribblesonpillow · 9 pointsr/TeslaModel3

No, but it’s fast enough. If you have WiFi connectivity where you park, it will automatically copy all of your clips to a file share on your home network. So, you don’t have to remove the drive from your car to review the clips.


Samsung PRO Endurance 128GB Micro SDXC Card with Adapter - 100MB/s U1 (MB-MJ128GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B984HJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wOmWDbDW0Q41K

If you’re interested I can share the other parts that are needed to build this. It offers several other advantages too, such as repairing the drive automatically if the FS becomes corrupt, can sync Music to it from a windows share, can send Pushover/AWS/IFTTT notifications when copying/done, etc.

Edit: You also have the option of creating a WiFi access point so that you can connect to it and view the clips on your smart phone while away from home.

u/Galen640 · 10 pointsr/Switch

First of all: Screen Protector. Once it's on you never notice it, doesn't hurt to get that extra safety!

I've bought 10 games so far, and I'd say get all of these because I have enjoyed them. BOTW, Splatoon 2, Sonic Mania, Rayman Legends, Dragon Ball Xenoverse 2 (assuming you like DBZ,) Mario Kart 8 Deluxe, Pokken Tournament DX, Street Fighter 2 Ultra, Mario + Rabbids Kingdom Battle, and Yooka Laylee.

If I had to pick 3 for you to get to start out then I would pick Breath of the Wild, Splatoon 2, and Mario Kart 8 Deluxe. I think that's enough variety to keep you busy for awhile.

A carrying is always a good thing, I'd recommend This case because it's the one I use and does its job.

Accessory wise I have joycon grips which are AMAZING when playing with one joycon.

Also, the grip it comes with is trash. Get the Power A Grip it feels A LOT better in your hands.

As for SD Cards, it depends. I have a 32GB SD card. I mainly buy physical games, The extra space is for screenshots and videos, and download only games, like Sonic Mania, Yooka Laylee, etc. If you're going for digital only then get a 256GB. Sure you won't use a ton of space now, but you might a few years down the line. Also, do NOT get the official Nintendo ones. They are a RIP-OFF! Here are some nice alternatives that will get the job done for A LOT cheaper: 32 GB 64 GB 128 GB and finally 256 GB

If you have any other questions feel free to ask OP, and other (potential) switch owners!

Quick edit: sorry that some links won't be put with the text, no idea what the issue is

u/downhillcarver · 2 pointsr/MyLittleMotorhead

Here ya go bro!

And you'll need one of these to go with it.


  • automatically turns on/off with your car (as long as your power outlet turns off with your car).
  • records in 10 minute segments, deletes the oldest segment when card fills up.
  • G force sensor will automatically lock the current segment against deletion if it senses a crash (adjustable G force level).
  • 140 degree view means you can see cars that are alongside your hood.
  • suction cup actually works! It hadn't fallen off once in four months!

  • not true 1080p, it records in 720p then upscales it to 1080p. Video is still clear enough for liability reasons and sharing stupid stuff like this, but if you're gonna film your next track day you may be slightly disappointed with quality.
  • directions are in pretty bad engrish, if you get directions at all. I still haven't figured out how to change the time stamp.

  • it claims to have infrared night vision, but I honestly can't see any real improvement over my Contour helmetcam which doesn't have IR. There's a chance it needs to be turned on but I haven't figured it out yet due to Engrish instructions.
  • decent sound pickup, but it can be overwhelmed if you listen to bass heavy music. This is partially because the area between your dashboard and your windshield likes to trap the bass.

    All in all, I'm happy with my purchase, though I only paid $50 for it. I'm planning to buy another one to point backwards at some point in the future. I also plan to hard wire them into my truck so that I don't have ugly cigarette plugs in every power port of my truck.

    I do wish I could mount it up higher on my windshield, but my windshield has a bunch of dots along the top for aesthetic and sun blockage, and the suction cup won't stick over those dots :/
u/9513574628 · 2 pointsr/todayilearned

Depends on what you want.

Increasing my Android phone's storage from 8GB to 72GB for $40 (64GB microSD card) is definitely objectively better.

If large screen size is important, Android phones are objectively better...at least for now.

Having NFC has been objectively better for me than not having it on my old iPhone. Using it more and more lately. This might be subjective, but I don't see how not having a useful feature would be better.

The same adapter for my phone I can also use for my stand alone camera, my audio recorder, portable hard drive, my heartrate monitor charger, my eCig charger, etc. That is definitely objectively better than the one Thunderbolt adapter for my iPad that has no other uses. Perhaps more convenient is another way to put it.

Wanting / needing a backup battery (which I have had to use before) is a clear advantage for some. Again, I don't see an advantage to not having this feature.

Actually - now that I've started down this road, I have no idea why anyone would want to stick with an iPhone - and if they did, why they would have any reason to think it was superior, considering any group of features you mention will likely have an equivalent in the Android market.

I guess it could come down to the app market / app quality - and just prefering the iOS experience more than Android (although Android has plenty of launchers to change the experience to whatever you want). But I have an iPad and I actually wish some of the options on my Android phone were available for iOS (like changing the keyboard, wireless app installation, widgets, etc.).

u/ViciousMoth · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I got this 64gb card for $16 on Amazon. Seems like the sweet spot for me. If you happen to need more in a year or two, larger sizes will be available, and prices will come down. Why pay more for space now that you aren't going to use? In my personal situation, I am going to want physical copies of games whenever I can, so I may not ever get to fill this thing up when I'm just using it for the occasional Snipperclips or other digital exclusive games. For $16, it is cheap and good peace of mind.

Also, it's nice that the system will still use its 32gb storage for your profiles, game saves, etc. It'll then use your 64 microSD for games and other things you can re-download easily from the eShop. They will work together, it's not a complete replacement. So in a way, it's sorta like having more than just 64gb.


u/Justice_Prince · 1 pointr/nintendo

We'll I'll be getting a SanDisk Ultra 200GB Micro SD which is going for $69.95. A 256GB micro SD is too much right now. I considered getting a 128GB to have even more, but per GB the 200 comes out to be about the same so I figured why not get a little more.

I'm also planning on getting the Nintendo Switch Hybrid Cover. I could just buy a case to protect my screen, but this seems like it will be good for standing up my Switch at angles the kickstand doesn't

I'll be getting a USB-c cable for charging as well, but I'm might shop around a little still. The one you have picked out there looks pretty good though.

I'll probably buy a carrying case too, but I haven't settled on one yet. I might hold off a while, but I'll probably buy a second pair of Joycons, and a Pro controller too. Of course I'll have to get either a charging girp, or charging stand for that extra pair of Joycons when I get it too.

u/other-brother-darryl · 4 pointsr/flyfishing

Ok here's what i did since

A) I didn't want to spend the $$ on a go pro and

B) I wanted a camera that is easily scripted (or hackable if you will).

I got the Xiaomi Yi Action cam with the water proof case for about $75

Stuffed it with memory

Grabbed some adhesive mounts for $8

And enabled this script that allows you to just push the on button when you hook a fish and the cam will take a photo every two seconds until you shut it off. You end up with a lot of photos but it's easy to sort though and just grab the good ones. The script also allows you to set different exposure and quality settings which make for some great pics.

If you go this route hit me up once you get the cam and I'll share out there script I use.

u/vipertongn · 1 pointr/PSP

how did you increase the memory to 256gb?

Lol i actually found one of your threads on it. I'm curious when people say to format it, but am finding some posts stating you shouldn't format the sd cards on their own. I noticed someone said it's better to format the disks on their own because the psp will tremendously limit the amount of space you'll get. So how should I format it? And what to? are there any particular microsd cards I should purchase?


I found this explanation, let me know if it's missing anything:

Would this work:


and with this (I actually found like a couple unopened boxes laying around in the house but I'm unsure if psp's require certain sd cards or not):


Finally...which cfw should I get? the latest 6.61? I ended up getting a psp 2000 for free from a friend

u/isableandaking · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Here is a ~2x faster READ, but 1/2 as fast WRITE 128gb from Samsung on amazon for $30 48MB/s is plenty fast for DSLRs and stuff, pretty sure it handles 4k video well as well, but if you want to be sure it's just $5 more. So with that in mind, the older version might be actually better, disregard this.

u/Coffee-Anon · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Yes. That is the exact card I bought for my Switch, from Walmart too. But here's the catch: I didn't realize until after I ordered it that Walmart goes through a 3rd party seller to get you that price, and the one I happened to get it from had a no returns/refunds policy. Luckily it looks like the card I got is fine, but frankly counterfeit cards are common enough that they could even slip by a big retailer like Walmart going through a 3rd party.

SO: if you want that card I would actually recommend you get the 128gb EVO Select from Amazon, it's the exact same card ("Select" is just what Amazon calls an EVO+), it should be the same price (maybe a little cheaper) and you're buying it directly from Amazon and should be able to return it if you have any problems.


u/Stalfo14 · 2 pointsr/3DS


this is the one I bought, figured I'd literally never need to worry about it again lol. Yeah I really liked the Yoshi XL, I love that green. But would have spent about $30 more dollars after tax and didn't come with a game so M&L is a good second choice :)

u/ActualSupervillain · -1 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

TO EVERYBODY COMPLAINING - If you have $60, buy this 200gb micro SD card.

If you don't, then instead of paying for online for however many months (I haven't looked since I don't plan to use it), save up and spend that money instead on this 200gb micro SD card. Yes that's the same link as before. It's a good deal.

edit: added words to make gooder english

soapbox edit: Before I get downvoted out of sight let me just say this - Copying saves wasn't an intentional feature. Memory cards was a product of its time. If Playstation had the space to add the extra hardware to save in the system I'm sure they would have. Microsoft has made their products Windows-like because they're Microsoft. Cloud saving costs the companies money. This was just a matter of time, yall. I'm sure Nintendo is keeping us from messing with the save files for some reason or another - cheating or hacking or whatever. Costs of things keep rising (or inflating or however the economy works) so, yeah, we're gonna have to start paying for shit we are taking for granted.

Now, could they enable us to access/copy/whatever this data with a patch? I'm sure they could. Even allowing us to put it on the SD would save us hassle. But they don't have to. They never had to. And don't argue being nice or whatever, companies, moreso everyday, are out to make a profit. That's why they exist. Speech over.

u/BirdAlien · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitchDeals

I would suggest an SD card if you're thinking about buying anything digital in the future.

As for games, I would recommend MK8DX. I also have a younger sis, she loves the game - the smart steering really helps her not get frustrated by running into walls or being confused on where to go like in the other mario karts. Have fun :)

u/Valenwave · 3 pointsr/smashbros

I’ve also been having corruption issues with smash ultimate and is using the card from that amazon page: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549551154&sr=8-3&keywords=samsung+256gb+micro+sd+card

Smash seems to be the only game that I’ve been having problems with and it also only started happening after the new DLC character. The first time it happened while I was loading Spirit Board. The second time was after playing a couple of Smash Mode games with a CPU, and the next day I just starting the game back up and it was corrupted... Then it happened while playing Classic Mode with Richter. And today it happened twice while playing online. So, I’ve reinstalled my game 5 times so far. And it doesn’t seem like anything I do is safe. I’m going to try switching SD cards to see if it will make a difference.

So random data for the record:

  • I’ve collected all of the spirits
  • The switch I have is the special edition Smash Ultimate
  • The version of Smash I have is a digital download.

    I’ve only played one other game on my Switch since this corruption started happening and that game is Dragon Quest Builders.

    Update: I got a new SanDisk 128GB from Best Buy yesterday. Loaded it into my Switch for initial formatting and then copied the files from my old MicroSD card to my new one--overriding everything. The game play was smooth for that night. I played 3 hours with no corruption. However, this morning, I got the corruption notice after about 15 minutes of game play. This time it was after an online match against Lucina while playing as Donkey Kong. No common case of issue from my experiences. Going to see if I will get a corruption error again tonight.
u/MistaBobobo · 1 pointr/3DS

I always buy name brand tech, for something like this I can afford there’s no reason to go cheap. I did a bit of research and this guy on YT who uses the same Poké Ball 2DS I’m getting has this specific kind which others seem to like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JWXGNT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xq8UDbTJ981QC

$8 is nothing, it’d be a lifetimes worth of storage space for me basically and I do have a list of digital games I wanna get. It’s gonna be my last handheld system and it looks cool so may as well go all out and go big lol.

I guess I may as well prepare, let’s say I get the card I linked above and it arrived before my DS does in the mail, does it need to be reformatted or something? Can I basically have it replace my current N3DSXL’s SD so when the time comes for the system transfer it’ll be all ready? Sorry for playing 20 Questions with you, I do appreciate everything you’d told me!

u/RruinerR · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

The old model battery is 2.5hrs-6.5hrs, depending on game and other factors.
The new model is 4.5hrs - 9hrs, again, depending on game and other factors.

The newer model also has a brighter handheld screen.
And, as much as you say you PLAN on being docked most of the time, you will find times and excuses to undock and take it along. (I never realized how much I wanted Fire Emblem 3 Houses with me when I had the tires put on the car...)

With that being said, a 200GB microSD for sure. Best price per GB and 200GB is quite a lot of games loaded.

I also suggest a grip for handheld with a case that fits the grip.
Again, i know you dont plan on being portable, but the Grip is GREAT when you are playing handheld, and a case is required for portable. And you'll want a case that fits it.
I suggest this one Switch GoPlay

These are also good, a bit more expensive.


u/-BreakingPoint0 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Personally this is what I got: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSD-Adapter-MB-ME128GA-AM/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1519751908&sr=1-2

What else is there to say other than it just worked? Seems to work great with the Switch. I paid $40 which is pretty good. The SanDisk one is also supposed to be pretty good and it's on sale as well:


I would personally go with one of those two.

Size is subjective. I got 128GB to be on the larger size. Wasn't a huge jump in price and figured with the way I'm going to use Switch I will most likely need it. So rather than buy another later on I just spent the extra to get the big one.

u/kalmah · 2 pointsr/Edmonton

Haha no way I got the A119S too with the gps module that records your location and speed. It records audio very well too.
I bought it last August, worked fine in the winter when it was super cold out because it doesn't use a battery.

For storage I got a Transcend 32GB High Endurance microSD card. From the little research I did they cost a little more than a normal SD card but are better for dash cams and such.

I'm satisfied with the purchase myself for $158 total it was a very fair price and the quality is good enough at 1080 60fps, wide enough to see drivers next to you, catches enough light at night or during snow/rainstorms to see license plates I have no complaints. Would be nice to have one facing out the back now though in case someone rear ends you or something.

u/Genesis635 · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Hey guys, I'm getting a P3D and have a question about Sentry mode/Tesla Cam recording. I've bought a JEDA Box because I wanted to keep a Wireless charger + a SSD for recording.

Would it be better to go for a portable SSD like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SWJ3CF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&th=1 , or a SD card with a reader like this: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Endurance-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B07B984HJ5/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title ?

I'm just trying to find the best solution + disk size needed if I wanted to keep it installed for a while. I live in TX so the car may be outside during the summers if that affects the temperatures of the devices, not too sure what to go for.

u/jbigboote · 2 pointsr/3DS

turn off your 3DS. remove the SD card. Connect it to your computer. navigate to the card, and select everything. copy and paste (or click and drag) the contents to someplace on your computer. SAFELY eject and remove the card, and put it someplace safe. Connect your new card to your computer. select the contents of the old card, and copy/paste (or click and drag) the contents to your new card. once the copy is finished, again, safely eject and remove the new card from your computer. put it in your 3DS. power it on. verify everything is there. if it is, awesome, you are good to go. if it is not, turn off your 3DS, remove the new bigger card, and put the old smaller card back in, and verify it is still good. Hopefully it is, and you can commence additional troubleshooting.

as for which card to get, 32GB is probably the sweet spot for value right now. here is a name brand 32GB SD card sold by a reputable seller for under $21 delivered. There are definitely cheaper options out there, but unless you are prepared to test the heck out a new card before using it, it's easier to just spend a little extra for known quality.

u/Merppity · 4 pointsr/fireemblem

I know this isn't really an answer, but you might wanna look into an SD Card. 64 GB ones aren't very expensive. Even very good ones like this 128 GB card are only $20 dollars or so.

If you don't feel like doing that, maybe check Target, Walmart, or Best Buy? They'll also have inventory for stores listed on their websites and you can usually reserve a physical copy for pickup as well.

u/cocothepops · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Hey all! I’m hoping to get a Switch this holiday season so I’m doing what I can upfront to allow me to get started right away.

First thing, I’m looking at storage. I’ve found this on Amazon SanDisk Ultra 128 GB microSDXC Memory Card. Is 128gb a good amount to get started with a mix of physical and digital games? The price ~£15 seems excellent so want to make sure it’s not slow or unreliable.

Also, are there likely to many sales around Black Friday? Be that for the console or games? Additionally, can I start buying eShop games that are in sale, so that when I get the console, I can log in and download them all?


u/cpqq · 6 pointsr/wyzecam

SanDisk Ultra 32GB. If it works in your cam and records properly, you shouldn't have an issue.

I had an issue where various Transcend cards of mine wouldn't show up, would record a few minutes, etc.. This card worked fine in the cam, so I kept constant with the models as I scaled out.

Use Xiaomi Dafang Hacks as that repo is updated within the last 3 days, OpenIPC a few months, and that's what it was based on.

Format the card to FAT32. Make sure to do that. NTFS, etc. will not work.

Once formatted, clear the lot, and download the demo.bin.

Direct Download: https://github.com/EliasKotlyar/Xiaomi-Dafang-Hacks/raw/master/hacks/cfw/wyzecam_v2/cfw-1.1.bin

Rename that to 'demo.bin' and have NOTHING ELSE ON THE CARD. FAT32 + demo.bin by itself.

Insert card into camera with demo.bin. Hold setup before giving it USB power. Keep holding it. Plug it back in. Keep holding setup for 10 seconds after so it flashes.

After 2-3 minutes it'll reflash with an older stock firmware that will allow you to do step 2. Wait 3-5 minutes, and power down the camera.

Re-insert the card to the PC / Mac, and copy the full contents of firmware_mod to the SD card after editing /config/wpa_supplicant.conf.dist to include your SSID (wifi name) and PSK (password).

Make sure to rename it also to wpa_supplicant.conf.

After copying, make sure it's not within a folder on the SD card, but populates the root folder.

Re-insert the card, no need to press any buttons, turn on the CAM and you should find the camera on your network and can login to the interface as https://IP

Full Instructions

It's working great, pushing 430-450KB/s at 20-50% CPU and around 48MB used. Turned off audio and motion tracking to give the CPU a break.

Now I love this camera.

u/Alfrs91 · 1 pointr/gopro

In my haste I ended up buying the hero 5 session because I wasn't anyone would see this in time to help. Is that gonna work just fine? I figured unless I boguht the (original?) session I was gonna spend at least 150 and the hero 5 session seems ok?

I ended up buying This card, u3 evo select, it lists 128 on the link, so I assume 64 is fine also?

For what its worth it's a baseball game, I just want to catch most of it

u/ClassicGameGirl · 1 pointr/AlternativeAmazonVGF

If you're looking for one, you might consider this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V62XBQQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was only $69.99 when I bought it (and it was the day of the big thanks promo so that took another $8.63 off), and it seems to be a bit more than that now but still a pretty good deal for the amount of storage, IMHO. It's been working great in my Switch.

u/kaplanj23 · 0 pointsr/NintendoSwitch


I would assume this is your listing then. When you scroll down to popular reviews there are 2 from 2017 saying how great the product is, but then 5 in a row 1 stars saying they were fakes. But when I filter by date on all reviews there seems to be plenty of 5 stars in the same time-frame as well. So I was just asking around. Glad to see you got a good one! might take my chance as well. Considering sold by amazon I could always return just didnt want any issues with my switch.

u/mer_mer · 143 pointsr/Games

Whoa there, let's clear up some things. SD cards are perfectly fine for MANY reads, and a 128 GB card will be fine for hundreds of terabytes of writes over its lifetime. [This card] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DOB6YW4/) is cheaper than $50 and has better performance than a hard drive.

128 GB is 128 GB +- a few megabytes due to partitioning. You're probably thinking about how hard drives were marketed with misleading SI or "metric" gigabytes which were 10^9 bytes instead of 2^30 . SD typically report using the 2^30 system your operating system uses.

Edit: /u/the_loneliest_noodle is right: That card does not have equivalent read speeds to the typical 5400 rpm drive used in consoles. Those get ~100 MB/s. Consecutive write speeds shouldn't really matter for gaming though. If you really want the best read speeds at that capacity, you have to start paying more like $80: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U77V5KU

u/Lithargoel · 2 pointsr/3dspiracy

Hell, official-factory refurbished "new" 3DS and 2DS XLs are on sale at Nintendo's online store. I just purchased a 2DS XL for $99 from them. It shipped from WA state. Got it in 4 business days for the $5 shipping, and it was safely and well packed.

Figure $110 after tax for a new 2DS XL shipped, or about $20 more for a refurbed 3DS.

The $20 128 GB SDXC memory card you were talking about also has a reader bundled with it for ~$8 more, if one needed it.

If one doesn't want to purchase a flashcart for ~$25 shipped (reputable retailer for official flashcarts), and doesn't have easy access to one to borrow, that person is gonna have to use (most likely for firmware ranges on units refurbished by Nintendo) Seedminer.

Overall looking at ~$130-$160ish to grab just the refurbed console (depending on 2DS/3DS) and memory card, and take the time to use Seedminer. Unless that person wanted to hardmod it for boot9strap.

I believe that purchasing a flashcart is a worthy investment to nearly guarantee the easiest and smoothest method to mod a console. The benefits the flashcart has beyond that is also well-worth the ~$25 for a quality flashcart from a reputable vendor.

My console shipped with 11.6.0, so I didn't turn on internet til I ntrboot'd it with an R4i Gold Plus 3DS/DS RTS flashcart (internal switch, quickest way to install CFW). I lucked out to have the flashcart because last year I had purchased it for a DS Lite I was given.

I'd previously CFW'd an OG 3DS still on firmware 4.4.0 with the soundhax method for boot9strap, which was easy enough. The flashcart ntrboot method was a bit easier, and much faster.

u/mcantrell · 6 pointsr/3dspiracy

1.4GiB free

1.65 GiB CIA file

You can try "install and delete CIA" to see if that'll work, but you'll probably have to free up space.

Edit: As someone mentioned down below, using Boop to stream the CIA to the system to do the install would also work, and that's what I would recommend.


Myself, I ended up getting a 256GB SD card -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0758NHWS8/ . It works great.

u/bizcocho1305 · 0 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

i would recommend you this one.. but there is tons of SD card that would work great on the switch, and the size really depends on how much games you have, and mostly if you prefer digital games over physical..

The main thing you should look for are that is an UHS-I or better or with U1 or better..


This one is another option, its a little more expensive due to better data speed, but specially for the switch both will work exactly the same

u/GiveMeNews · 1 pointr/PickAnAndroidForMe

I usually recommend the Honor 8 to people switching from Apple. It uses EMUI and is modeled after iOS, so it is more intuitive to use for first-time android users. Also has the best camera you can get that isn't a flagship phone (Some Photo Samples), has very good battery life, solid and responsive performance, and expandable storage. (Most android phones have microSD card slots, which lets you add more storage. I added a 64GB card to mine for $20. The Honor 8 supports up to 2TB cards, but the biggest cards on the market are currently 256GB.) Also has full LTE support for both AT&T and T-Mobile.

You can get it for $299 on Amazon.

If you need more storage, purchase a 64GB or 128GB microSD card while you are at it. I got this one for my phone:

u/TheK9sBllxs · 4 pointsr/WarframeSwitch

Samsung 256GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC EVO Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME256GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wpF0Cb4EZS4Z7
The one I use, pretty good size and to me a pretty good price. Might be worth to save up for it instead of having to buy a bigger card every time you hit the cap

u/pasta4u · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

this is an older card that offers only 45MB/s reads. if you go far back in amazon reviews you can see people testing them and having slow speeds at 45MB/s and some reviews state that the write speeds were bad often dropping like a rock.

You really want to invest in a good card . I own this one


if you scroll down to customer images you can see someone was nice enough to benchmark it . He was getting 92.5MB/s sequential reads and 25.26 writes. That and the 512k scores 84/45 respectively are the most important.

I recommend you don't buy anything because we don't know what the switch can take advantage of. So here is an expensive card that I use in my surface pro 4

This is double the price of the first card I linked for the same capcity. Its sped ? 150MBs/ 55/ MB a second. The problem is the need for a UHSII card slot.

So like I said don't go out and buy until you know. I know for me I rather have faster loads than more storage. I will always have a case with me so I can always keep multiple micro sd cards

Writes should not be that important since games will only really write to save and when downloading games you may be limited by your connection anyway.

u/TreeThreepio · 14 pointsr/smashbros

I've dealt with corrupted data but have been able to recover my save each time after redownloading.

1) The day it happened - 3 times on 1/29 (day of 7.0 update and 2.0 patch) and once on 2/3

2) How many times it has happened. - 4 times total

3) What mode/character you were playing as.

1st time - Went to start classic mode with Piranha Plant and it crashed

2nd - As the game was booting up

3rd - After running a corruption test after redownloading

4th (5 days later) - while waiting in online quickplay lobby as Palutena. Had already played 10-15 matches

4) How much you completed in the game. (Classic Mode runs/Mob Smash runs/ Adventure Mode/ Spirits Collected/ specificity challenges completed/not completed etc.) - about 25% of classic runs, no mob smash runs, WoL 100% completed, about 800 spirits collected

5) If you own a physical or digital version. - Digital

6) In the case of the latter, if the game was saved to System Memory or an SD card. - So here's the weird part. It was installed on system memory since I've had the game installed pre-ordered. It reinstalled on my SD card for instances 2, 3, and 4 because I had plenty of space available and automatically installs there if there is space. After the final corruption instance this past Sunday, I made sure it installed to the system memory. Have had no issues since but have only played about an hour yesterday.

7) The model and storage size of the SD card in your Switch. - The rumored problematic Samsung EVO 256 GB one. I'm one of the comments you can see in the GameXPlain video of the reddit post. Link to the card: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZeuwCb3PBV7R6

8) Whether you have used more than one SD card for the system. - I used to have a smaller SanDisk Ultra 64 GB one but once I bought the 256 GB one I took everything off the smaller one and moved it to the larger one.

9) The space left on the SD card. - 144 GB

10) Whether or not you were subscribed to the online service. - Yes

Ran a corruption test of my copy of Smash yesterday and it came back clean. Played for about an hour with no issue. Will update this post if it happens again.

EDIT: I've also played Wargroove and Stardew Valley since the initial corrupt crash and both have had no issues.

u/tylerdanielson · 4 pointsr/homeassistant

That depends on how early you want to start. There are a lot of different components at play here, but each one is using the bare minimum of each.

Personally, I would start simple with building a base Home Assistant server.

  • Raspberry Pi Starter Kit $70
  • 32gb Micro SD card $8
  • Micro SD Card/USB Reader $8

    Once you have your equipment, install Hass.IO using the Raspberry Pi 3 instructions.

    Home Assistant does a great job of walking you through the steps. It is really easy, especially if starting with a fresh install.

    From here, you now have Home Assistant running and you can play around with installing all of the various components. I highly recommend taking some time to learn the basic mechanics of adding equipment.

    From there, I have done a ton of trial and error in JavaScript and HTML using W3Schools. My suggestion: come up with what you want to do, start small, and build from it.

    In my case, I wanted two separate websites on one screen. DAKBoard on the top, and my Home Assistant front end on the bottom. This told me iframe, so I started here, which allowed me to do live trial and error. Eventually, I built myself up to using Repl.it for trial and error, but that's jumping ahead.

    Once I got my iframes working out, I actually used Dakboard's instruction on how to build a wall display that automatically boots into a webpage.

    The final step is to put your new webpage on Home Assistant's built in web server. Simply create a folder "www" under your "config" folder, add your new html page there, and direct your new wall panel to it's address.

    tl;dr - start small, come up with a goal, and build up to it in pieces trying different things along the way.
u/krunk84 · 0 pointsr/cade

First thing is you need to decide what you want. I get that you want a cabinet, but do you want one that is full sized or something like a bartop model. If you want a full sized cabinet, you can either find plans and build it yourself or search around for an older cabinet to repurpose. If you want a bartop, again you can build it yourself, but you can also find rather inexpensive cabinet kits that are pre-cut and ready to put together.

Once you decide on your cabinet, you need to plan on what you want to put in it. The basics you are going to need can be found below as well as amazon links to get you started.

Raspberry Pi 3 link

Raspberry Pi Case link

Arcade Buttons & Joysticks link

Speakers link

4:3 ratio monitor link

power strip link

Micro SD Card link

Ultimately, it is your decision how you want to go with this. Building an arcade system is all about customizing it to your personal tastes. Once you have the materials, there are tons of tutorials on how to get retropie set up and running.

u/ElektrikDynomite · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Thanks for pointing that out! I ended up going with a 400GB, but it looks like the seller is "Unikoss". Hopefully its legit, they seem to have positive reviews on Amazon at least


u/therealajax · 3 pointsr/cars

I have an OLD valentine 1 from like 2003 or something and it works great still. But it is very reliant on placement as it gets older it seems. I sometimes get hits on police when it would normally be too late so I cannot speak to the quality of the newest models.

As for dash cams, I do have a recommentdation. I use my Yi camera and it has great quality and an easy to use app for downloading videos. Formatting for me never seems to work here so here is my camera, memory card, and rear view mirror mount:




u/wdgiles · 3 pointsr/Dashcam
  1. Transcend High Endurance Micro sd card, the silver colored cards that are designed for dvr and dashcam use.
  2. 1440, 30fps for slightly better res to see plates.
  3. the camera itself can move on two axes, so it will work pretty much anywhere you stick it.
    • I own four of these and I love them. Started with a single a118c, and moved that to rear view duty, using the 4 119c's as primary front views on 3 cars and on one as a rear view. Get the GPS module and a dedicated power supply like a rio-rand usb voltage converter if you plan to hardwire it. The gps module allows you to slide the camera on and off without touching the power cable since it connects first to the GPS module. Also get the capacitor model, The "C" since it is less prone to long term battery expansion issues in high heat environments.
u/obs0lete · 1 pointr/TorontoDriving

There's actually a few different models of the A119, see this link for a comparison: https://support.viofo.com/support/solutions/articles/19000083285-the-difference-between-a119-a119s-and-a119-pro

The main difference is that the A119S model has a better sensor for night time, otherwise the A119/Pro are both solid choices.

I went with the A129 only because it can output 1920 x 1080P for both the front and rear cams.
You can check the specs for the A129 here: https://www.viofo.com/home/79-72-a129-duo-dual-channel-5ghz-wi-fi-full-hd-dash-camera.html

The only thing with Viofo dash cams is that the mobile app is a bit odd. I can only get the live view (on iOS - can't speak for Android) to work when I am connected to a VPN connection for some reason. I have been e-mailing support about this and it would appear they are working on this problem, but I've not heard anything back form them in some time. For playback though the app works fine.

Hope this helps!

Edit: You should also get a good quality SD card. These ones are made for high-endurance applications like dash cams: https://www.amazon.ca/Transcend-Information-Endurance-microSD-TS32GUSDHC10V/dp/B01BDKTQY6/ref=pd_sbs_147_5/147-1825319-3019317?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01BDKTQY6&pd_rd_r=78ff2d67-5d65-11e9-a945-818b360be682&pd_rd_w=0cTMY&pd_rd_wg=NccmY&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=TSW2VXJM7GXD357FVRPG&psc=1&refRID=TSW2VXJM7GXD357FVRPG

u/Lorben · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

>Should I get one of the pro controllers?

If you're going to be playing docked frequently, absolutely. It's a very nice controller and more comfortable than the Joycons.

>are there versions with more storage or do I just buy an extra memory card or something?

No version with more storage, but you can use a micro SD card in it.

A SanDisk Ultra of whatever size and pricepoint you want is my usual recommendation. The Switch's read speed tops out at 95-100MB/s and read speed is irrelevant, so a card with a read speed of 100MB/s is what you're aiming for. If you're buying a super fast Extreme Ultra Mega SD card for the Switch it's not going to do anything other than make your wallet lighter.

u/TemptedTemplar · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Depends on the game you play. Zelda will get you MAYBE 3 hours of battery life in handheld if your brightness is down and the wireless is off.

But something like shovel Knight would be an easy 4 hours. Even with wireless or your screen brightness on.

Joycons last 8 to 15 hours sometimes. It helps that they can charge whenever they are attached to the system, so they rarely die on me.

And yes, you can use any micro SD card. The only requirement is that it has a read speed of 60 mb/s or more. Otherwise you risk your installed games running slower than intended or simply not working. This is the SD card I always recommend.

u/rhinofinger · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.

At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).

You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.

u/illithidbane · 1 pointr/GalaxyNote8

Agreed. I save $160 / phone by using Best Buy instead of Verizon. If that costs me preorder items, oh well. I can get an SD Card for $45 right now, and I can just skip the wireless charging and plug the thing in. The cold hard cash is more important. And I might still get the bonus items anyway.

u/ohbehavekenobi · 1 pointr/GH5

Whats important with SD cards is the write speed. /u/guitarinjustin mentions the 400Mbit/s being 50MB/s. (/u/sonicbuster) 8 bits makes a Byte, so those values are equivalent but converted. Most cards advertise read speed only because read speeds are always faster on SD cards and more attractive to advertise, so do your research to make sure you know the write speed before buying. If you want to future proof for the 400MBit/s update, your card should have a write speed of 50Mbps or more. Cards will be more expensive though. Keep in mind cards slow down if you don't format them every time you transfer files in and out so maybe don't just buy the bare minimum write speed.


This is what I bought because its at a great price.

u/Lilywhite14 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

It's pretty good, but no 256GB cards are amazing value yet. You can get a 200GB card on Amazon for £66 which is slightly better value and from a far more reliable source.

u/78OC · 35 pointsr/nintendo

wow thank you. I saw this, went to amazon.ca (canadian) and it was on sale there too. I bought it within 2 minutes of seeing this thread. Thanks!!!

List Price: CDN$ 107.80

Deal Price: CDN$ 64.99 & FREE Shipping.

You Save: CDN$ 42.81 (40%)


For Canadians :)

Edit: and now today (on black Friday) the price went up! Gross!

u/kiiingbob · 2 pointsr/3DS

I'm getting a New 3DS XL for X-mas so I was in the same boat as you, on google/reddit/amazon/youtube I was looking to see what I should get. Here's what I ultimately decided on:

u/CripplerJones · 13 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You forgot:

  • I finally got a Nintendo Switch! Which accessories should I buy for it before it gets here? Most people recommend a screen protector and a carrying case. As for the most frequently recommended carrying cases, there's this one from RDS Industries and this one from Butterfox.

  • What's the biggest, cheapest, most reliable microSD card I can buy for the Switch? There's no best answer, but a lot of people on this sub recommend this one from Samsung.

  • Should I buy a Nintendo Switch? What about all of the problems I heard about? Maybe? I don't know. That's your call, friend. There are problems, as there are with any new piece of technology, but Nintendo has a great warranty with excellent customer support, and the issues aren't quite as widespread as it seems (people are most vocal when there's a problem; they typically won't say anything if there's nothing wrong).

  • What games are coming out for the Switch? There's a link in the sidebar on desktop, but for mobile users, check here.
u/Brandicus · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

bro, I completely understand the collecting affliction..... 30 and married here, my wife tolerates it but also seems to enjoy it. The switch really was a game changer for her and now she games so much I bought her one of her own so she stops hogging mine.

Also just as a heads up, this is the 200gb sd card I purchased. Looks like its still pretty close to what i bought it for. might be worth considering!

u/plehem12 · 2 pointsr/Surface

I have a Surface 3 as well and the first thing I bought with it was a 128gb microSD card. This one to be exact:


I've had both the Surface and the card since Black Friday and I've only had problems with it not staying mounted once, which was the same day I got it. I use my Surface every day. I keep all my music, movies, extra documents for work, and things like that on it and have not had any problems with anything. I don't use it for gaming, however, so I can't help you there. But, so far so good otherwise. Maybe check that out!

Also, I'm curious. What kind of games do you play on your Surface 3? I bought it for work and not for games, but I'm about to fly from Korea to Louisiana soon and some gaming options would be nice. I've never been into PC gaming, I'm a console peasant. What's the best way for me to look into what I can do with my Surface 3?

u/1dirtypanda · 1 pointr/PrimeDay2016

A total of 7 separate orders. It was a bit annoying because I was mostly on my phone and the mobile apps/chrome wouldn't load properly. Also I would have preferred to bundle orders but oh well. or try to use more coupons but they only give you so many minutes in the cart and sometimes the next item that you're waiting for a deal to start is right outside that window.

u/noname2139 · 1 pointr/PSP

You could ask a friend to help.

But you want to brave it yourself here are the links needed.

In the order in which they’d be needed.

After its done you can google psp iso/rom and add games to play.

Word of advise though. Only do this if you like messing with technology, and this kind of stuff excites you.

Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) MicroSDXC Evo Select Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME128GA/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AHorDbNAJ7KNT

PSP Memory Stick Adapter, Funturbo Micro SD to Memory Stick PRO Duo MagicGate Card for Sony Playstation Portable, Camera, Handycam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F68FCHD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CForDb34RRGV4

PSP hacking how to


u/brooklandia1 · 2 pointsr/GearVR

Thanks. For anyone interested, this seems to have best speeds for usb flash (obviously external SSD is fastest if they work too): SanDisk Extreme PRO CZ88 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive Speeds Up To 260MB/s


Or even faster updated usb 3.1 version i just saw https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MU8TZRV/

The smaller flash drives seem to be just microSD card housings and so top out well under 100 MB/s write speed, a bit slow for copying 1440p/4K 60fps content.

Also went with a 128GB Samsung Evo Select SD card, much better write speeds than the Samsung Evo+ in the $99 immersive preorder promo.


u/KurisuFuransu · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

I'm unsure if it matters for the Switch, but these are U1 rated, guaranteed minimum data speed of 10mbps. Samsung has a U3 (30mbps) card for only slightly more:


I still don't need a MicroSD card quite yet for my Switch, but Sandisk and Samsung are both solid names in the memory space, so I'd trust either of them. Hopefully the 256GB returns to a good price, the 128GB sure seems like a deal.

u/KarbonRodd · 1 pointr/Cameras

Good lord, I was just talking about this today and how people blow ridiculous amounts of money buying overkill cards to shoot really basic video. Photo is a bit different because of buffer rates on burst shooting, but you could still probably do with waiting a few seconds to write if you're not a pro sports photographer.

Bitrate is a calculation: 100 mbps is the max bitrate of the A7 series video which = 12.5 MB/s. That's not that demanding, so you can easily use a 30 MB/S (V30) write speed SD card for shooting video on an A7 of any sort. I personally use128gb Samsung Evo Plus cards on the A7iii, GH5, GH5S, GoPro Hero 5 and 7 and Phantom 4 pro with no issues after years of use and probably 20-30 terabytes of shooting. Buying a more expensive card than you need isn't a guarantee of quality or of value, it's just a guarantee that you spent more than you could have.

$19.49 on amazon for a 128gb. If video is your aim you won't be disappointed.


u/paulmike3 · 1 pointr/sonyactioncam

Hey Nic... See any reason off the top of your head why this 128 GB Samsung card wouldn't work for the X3000 (max 4K video settings)? I realize most cards just need to be tested to know for sure, but wondered if there was a detail that I'm just missing. Trying to save a few bucks off the recommended sidebar card. :) Thanks in advance!

u/gcbeehler5 · 1 pointr/houston

I've got this one, and I like it:


Paired with this:


I barely ever grab video off of it, but when I have it's been pretty easy to do, and the video is very clear.

u/dcresistance · 1 pointr/anime

Niiiiiiiice. The speakers on it are amazing. And the S-Pen is easily one of the most useful accessories to ever come with a phone. Here's a fantastic video covering a ton of stuff you can do with it.

You can snap up a 128GB microSD card on Amazon right now for suuuuper cheap. $27. Or you can go for a 200GB one for $45, or a 256GB one for $65.

u/jaykresge · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

While the "gaming" SD card moniker is overdone, there is value in getting a faster SD card in some cases. I'll use an example.

Here's the Nintendo Switch co-branded Sandisk MicroSD 128GB, currently going for $54.99 on Amazon.


And here's the 128GB card that people often compare it to, also from Sandisk.


Wow, only $26! Who in their right mind would buy the Nintendo co-branded one for just over twice the price!?

The proper card to compare it to is this one from Sandisk.


This is the same exact card as the Nintendo co-branded one, and comes with an SD to MicroSD adapter. It's also $43.79 at the time that I'm linking it.

It should be noted that prices fluctuate, and I bought the Nintendo one for ~$45 a week ago, while the non-branded one was ~$55.

Which one should a gamer get? Realistically, they should have near identical read speeds, and therefore, load times for games that are installed. The two more expensive options are faster at write speeds by a noticeable margin. This helps with game installs, larger saves, and any other write-based task. IE, most won't notice.

Most users should get the cheaper model. For those who think that they need the additional performance (I didn't, I was kidding myself), get the cheaper of the two similar Sandisk models, or a similar rated product from another brand that you trust.

u/tangyteng · 2 pointsr/3DS

32gb class 10 works perfectly and is faster.
This is the best deal

most games are about 1gb,
Memory is so cheap nowadays that you can afford to get the best.

u/xelf · 1 pointr/tablets

Anything with a micro sd card will do. You can put a lot of movies onto micro sdcards for very little money. They're also a lot less bulky than an external HD.

Any Tablet that supports OTG/USB Host will work for using any USB device too.

microSD > Thumbdrives > external HD.

I'd recommend a Kindle FIre HD 10.

  • $150 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J6RPGKG/
  • $9 Amazon OTG Cable https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B075CTBSGJ/
  • $36 128GB microsdcard https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073JYC4XM/ (or $80 for the 256GB)

    Not going to find a better solution for under $200. You're going to have a hard time finding a better solution for your needs for under $1000 to be fair.

    If you decide you want to do more with it than just watch movies, it's very easy to add the google play store and get access to all the google stuff as well. I know some people are worried about only having access to Amazon's appstore, but it's easy to add, many online guides, If you can read reddit you can manage it.

u/ZetirixReborn · 2 pointsr/hearthstone

I swapped from IOS over to Android (64Gb) last year, got a great deal on a 128Gb card from Amazon for like $35, and life's pretty sweet since.

u/spaceballsrules · 7 pointsr/MotoG

The Extreme is better in every way. Faster read/write and optimized for shooting in 4K. It's only $6 more. Just be sure to get the one that is rated U3/A1/V30.

If you do opt for the Ultra, just be sure that it is the one that is rated A1, so it is optimized for use with smartphone apps.

u/privateye_ · 1 pointr/SegaSaturn

It's also possible that Alcohol 120% isn't mounting the image correctly. I create CDI images using DiscJuggler and Daemon Tools 3.47 in a Windows XP virtual machine, but obviously that's not the most trivial thing to set up. An alternative way of creating Rhea/Phoebe images is to use Daemon Tools Lite and CD Manipulator; both of these programs are free and work on Windows 10. The correct settings for CD Manipulator can be found here.

My Sandisk 128GB microSD card is formatted exactly like yours. This is the particular SD card that I use:

u/jbarke15 · 1 pointr/Surface

Gotcha. Sounds like I need to be working with NTFS then. I have an iPhone, so compatibility with Android devices isn't an issue.

These are some of the cards I'm looking at. Which do you think is the best fit for my needs? (I'm in mobile... I hope these links work)

SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter, Black, Standard Packaging (SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA)

SanDisk Click to open expanded view Extreme PLUS Micro SDXC UHS-1 Card, Black, with Adapter (SDSQXWG-128G-GN6MAMA)
This one is quite a bit more expensive than the one above ($100 vs. $40). Is the extra performance worth the extra expense?

u/queuebitt · 34 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSDXC UHS-I Card - $29.21 (26% off)

  • $0.15/GB
  • 100MB/s read speed (real world testing closer to 85MB/s)

    SanDisk Ultra 400GB microSDXC UHS-I Card - $62.30 (34% off)

  • $0.16/GB
  • 100MB/s read speed (real world testing closer to 85MB/s)

    Both are near Black Friday value per GB. The majority of "all digital games" Switch owners should be happy with the 200GB. Those with a mix of physical and digital are usually fine with 128GB. But if you need a new card the 200GB is worth considering at only $8 more.

    The Switch only supports up to 104MB/s max read speed. Eurogamer found only a 0.3 second load time difference between a 30MB/s card and a 90MB/s card. For most users you want to consider capacity (how much do you need) and value (cost per GB), not speed.
u/AtticusRedd · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Having trouble deciding on a MicroSD card and I'm not super in the know when it comes to things like this. Basically I know that UHS-1 is recommended for Switch and I know that I want 128GB (fits my needs and price range) but I'm stuck on a few and don't know the best option to go with. The three I'm stuck on are [this one by SanDisk] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EanpzbQDF9ND9), [this one by Samsung] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0dnpzbQ51XVD3), and [this one by LEXAR] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012PLSIJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XenpzbHA5EX24).

All help is appreciated! And if you can, please explain why I should go with the card you recommend over the other two. Thanks!

u/replus · 1 pointr/nintendo

Oh wow, I wasn't aware the problem ran that deep. I was aware of the risk of getting counterfeit stuff from Amazon, but figured that was restricted to stuff along the lines of "sold by KICKINRADGOODZNGAMEZ and fulfilled by Amazon." Thanks for the feedback everyone, I'll check my card when it shows up next week and post my findings for those still looking to buy. I bought this particular one:


(Not a referral link AFAIK, but feel free to remove it if need be. If removed, it's a Sandisk Ultra 128GB UHS-1 for $39.99. Should be the top result if searching "Sandisk ultra 128 micro".)

u/RippyZ · 21 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Samsung evo is a better sd card and goes for the same price pretty much 100% of the time https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWZWYVP/

Don't buy SD cards in physical retail locations like bestbuy. Their "deals" are just them marking the price down to the actual online price when most of the time they are marked way up. When they do go on sale for real you'll see them for like $25-$40 on Amazon.

EDIT Here's the Sandisk one https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62 for the same price on Amazon. No mention of a sale while bestbuy is claiming $118 off. Just bestbuy fuckary going on there. Samsung one I linked is still better as it's rated 30MB/s minimum while the sandisk is 10MB/s minimum.

u/SIThereAndThere · 5 pointsr/GalaxyS7

Alright I got a technical question.

I ordered a SanDisk Extreme PRO 64GB link

Read: Up to 95MB/s

Write: Up to 90MB/s

So won't this be ideal for a snappy phone speeds from an SD card for both 4k and general use?


Compared to the current offer Actual amazon link

The product description doesn't give a clear indication of write speeds (vs the 1st product I listed) but from the useful Amazon Comments I got:

Sequential Read : 45.93 MB/s

Sequential Write : 14.7 MB MB/s

^(thanks /u/ekol for the correct read/write speeds)

So wouldn't the 64gig Extreme pro be ideal for 4k recording and general speediness?

u/breake · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Samsung evo select is an sd card that samsung made to sell exclusively on Amazon. It's sold directly by Amazon so no worries about fakes. It's a really fast card (which the Switch probably won't need), but if you ever need an SD card later on, this will still be useful in the future. They're priced really well. I just got one and it works great.

Edit: oh damn. Looks like it's sold out, but you can get it from the Warehouse for cheaper.

u/Bkxjku · 1 pointr/3DS

Aside from the screen protector they are all really optional

You can go with any screen protector, I got like the Hori ones

32GB SD card

r4ids.cn R4i Gold(the firmware may not be updated when shipped so you may need a pre v4.5 3DS or DS Lite to update it) and Micro SD to hold the DS roms/saves/r4 firmware. 8gb is plenty

For Cases

Full 3DS Case or This Travel Case

A circle pad pro XL if you buy a game that supports it is nice, other things like a 3DS usb charger cable + external battery pack if you need the juice for trips are handy.

But aside from the screen protector which I highly recommend the rest are optional.

u/tomkatt · 2 pointsr/emulation

$35 is just for the Pi 3 itself. You can find Pi cases pretty cheap, like $7-$10. From there it's the HDMI cable (which you probably already have laying around), MicroSD card, and power supply.

It's powered over USB to outlet wart plug. 2.5a is recommended, but you can probably get away with 2.0a or 2.1a, which is more common. Or buy a full standalone power plug for it. Assuming you don't have a microSD card, 32GB is only ~$10 these days, and you can get a 64GB one for about double that.

So total cost might be around $50-75 depending on accessories and what you already have at hand versus what you need to buy. Still quite cheap for a retro emulation rig (and can always be repurposed as something cool like a firewall or mini-PC or something, since there are Linux builds for the Pi as well).

u/drmacinyasha · 2 pointsr/Sacramento

I've been pretty happy with Blackvue cams. I've owned the DR650S-2CH and DR750S-2CH, both of which include a model of rear-facing camera you can mount internally (e.g., Lyft/Uber driver) or on the back window, or one that can mount to the cab of your truck, or has IR LEDs to see in the car at night. They've worked well, and the hardwiring kits are pretty nice with options to turn off automatically after X hours or when the battery reaches a certain voltage.

My DR650S eventually died, I think due to electrical issues my car's ECU was causing. Most of the other electronics started going wonky until the ECU gave up the ghost and caused an explosion in the intake manifold, cracking half the engine. Until it fried, it was very reliable as long as the cheap microSD card I was using needed to be reformatted, and the videos it recorded were pretty decent.

On my current car I've installed the DR750S just recently. This time instead of the Power Magic Pro hardwiring kit, I decided to go with the Power Magic Battery Pack. The battery's hardwired into the electrical system on a circuit that only has power when the car's running, and I placed the battery in the glove compartment so that I can use the USB ports on it if needed for like a Wi-Fi hotspot. The 750S has been fantastic and the video quality's great. Just gotta take the time to adjust the accelerometer sensitivity and whatnot.

I also picked up a polarized lens filter which fit both models, and that helps cut down on the glare and helps keep the video from getting too bright. I also picked up much better microSD cards for the 750 to avoid the issues I had on the 650. The only real complaints I've had with them are around the apps used to connect to the camera (both desktop and mobile), and the Wi-Fi support. Basically, both units only have 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi, and can only support network SSIDs and passwords of up to a certain length. I have the Wi-Fi access point closest to the garage transmitting a second network just for the dashcam to connect to as a result. The apps feel very much like someone's one-day project when you use them, but more frustrating is that you can only sign-in on one device at a time. So if you sign-in to desktop, it'll sign you out of the mobile app, and vice-versa.

u/Scapetti · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hey, don't get either. Get the non Nintendo branded official sandisk https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-128GB-microSDXC-Memory-Adapter/dp/B073JYC4XM/

It's not only cheaper than both but you can go even higher in size, up to 400gb (you will probably want this eventually). It's exactly the same as the Nintendo but without the Nintendo brand I believe. I would get it over the Samsung. It's what I have and is perfect for the Switch.

When you get it, before you start using it, go to the format options on your Switch settings and make sure you format it. This will ensure it works correctly

u/nerys71 · 1 pointr/VeryCheap

nothing special. amazon prime shipped samsung U3 100MB/s


$1 more trusted source and safe return path

or save a $1 and get the sandisk version $22


not even sale prices.

you can get them even cheaper if you buy amazon new/used around $23/$20

if you want to support me use one of my aflinks at www.todays3dprint.com

above links are direct and NOT aflinks.

u/Crazy_Dragon · 13 pointsr/minines

You could use a tutorial here. It is a lot easier to do than it seems. I will tell you, you need a keyboard, Raspberry Pi 3, and an SD Card. Once you get that, here is where you can download it.. Then, just follow the instructions on Instructable. You really do not have to pay someone, it is a lot easier than it seems. If you want, you can even get a retro case (or normal one like I did) and get a retro controller. PM me if you need more help (I won't charge you if you need help, it is really easy)!

Edit: Ill do yo a bigger favor. Here are the things you will need

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi 3 Charger Kit. A powerful phone charger or micro usb adapter should work, but someone can let me know if I am wrong.

SD Card Raspberry Pi 3

Keyboard, though, you probably have one of these at home

Retro Controller, not required, but recommended

You will need at least an 8 GB SD Card, but I recommend 32 GB

u/OckhamsFolly · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If money isn't a HUGE concern, I'd recommend a 200gb card instead. It's pretty much the same cost/GB, before they start exploding in value with the 256+ cards.

Make sure you're looking at micro sdxc, UHS-1, and something over 80mb/s speeds (the Sandisk Ultra is 100mb/s)

200gb UHS-1: $85, currently on sale for $69, $/gb=$0.35

128gb UHS-1: $50, currently on sale for $42, $/gb= $0.33

If you don't mind switching them out though, there's nothing wrong with getting multiple smaller cards. It won't cause any problems (presuming you change the card with the system off). A 32gb card (e.g., the same amount as the internal memory) is like $13.

u/veni_vidi_vale · 4 pointsr/headphones

Pioneer XDP100 often goes down to $300 on Amazon, and sometimes down to $250. It does everything you want it to do, and has all the bells and whistles you could want in a DAP (Android for streaming audio, 2 micro SDXC slots, ES9018K2M DAC, zero floor noise even with finicky IEMs, great SQ, DSD capable, supports MQA (sorry /u/Arve) has bluetooth, has a great UI (essentially Android) and plays video too.

Its only major con is that it has decent (but not great) battery life. Also it puts out a max of 75mW per channel at 32 ohms, so obviously not for those high impedance headphones.

Why do I say it is a bargain? I bought mine for full price when it first came out after running through a bunch of Sony internet-enabled DAPs (didnt really love any of them) and I still think it was absolutely worth it. I have two of these loaded up in the SD card slots, so my storage capacity is 432GB, which is more than enough for my needs. I use one SD card to store Tidal + Spotify files offline, another for my music collection, and the on-board memory for a movie or two in case I get bored.

The reason the XDP100 is discounted is because it is now discontinued and replaced by the XDP300. It is exactly the same as the Onkyo DPX1, except the Onkyo is balanced and has twice the output power.

You will need to be patient, but if the XDP100 goes down to $250 again at that price it isn't a deal, it's a steal .

u/OneEightActual · 1 pointr/headphones

Confused. How big a library are we talking about here, and do you really need the entire library to be portable?

I'm not trying to be judgemental if budget is a consideration, but a 256GB micro-sd is on sale for $27.99 this weekend, which is a fairly trivial amount in an expensive hobby like this and should hold most libraries with ease: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MicroSDXC-Adapter-MB-ME256GA-AM/dp/B072HRDM55/ref=sr_1_1?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1575089197&refinements=p_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A13203835011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_89%3ALexar%7CPNY%7CSamsung%7CSanDisk&rnid=2528832011&rps=1&s=pc&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-1

And if you're concerned about storage on the PC, external hard drives are pretty cheap too.

If that would allow you to go all-FLAC it would really simplify things.

u/trazire · 2 pointsr/IWantToLearn

If your computer has a tiny slot, then you can put a microSD card in there. You can get a card like this for around $20 at Best Buy and other tech stores. You can move your files into the microSD as opposed to on your main drive, saving space.

If your computer has a larger slot about the size of your thumb, you can get an SD card. Some microSD cards have SD card adapters, which you can tell by the packaging. If you use Amazon, this $20 128 gigabyte card from Samsung and this $10 64 gigabyte card from Silicon Power would both do the trick. If none such a port exists, I recommend this $18 128 gigabyte flash drive from SanDisk.

Also, if you could tell me the model number (usually located on the back of the computer labeled under "model", or in Control Panel along with RAM), then I'd be able to help you more.

u/dosgamer85 · 2 pointsr/amiga

2019 is fine too. For awhile the 2018 GPD XD + was going for $145 so that was an easy buy.

I use the $50 SanDisk Ultra 400GB microSDXC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNRM2B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share with the GPD.

Why the bias against Android? Emulation friendly and tons of apps! Especially new Dreamcast emulator callee Reicast.

u/e39 · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

> I'm looking to build an emulator that can play ps1 or n64 and back to the Atari.

Just a heads up, don't expect a flawless gaming experience with N64 titles on the Raspberry Pi 3. It simply doesn't have enough processing power to utilize the latest emulation methods.


RetroPie on a Pi3 can be as expensive or cheap as you make it. At a minimum, you need the Pi3 and a housing ... and you may or may not have the rest laying around the house (micro sd card, power supply, keyboard, controllers, etc). Here's my go-to shopping list ... but again, this shouldn't be taken 1:1, but just as an idea of what you need.

u/zephyrus256 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You definitely don't need to get an SD card before you turn on your Switch for the first time, but it's definitely something you'll want to do sooner rather than later if you prefer buying digital. If you really want to max out the storage, I'd go with [this one.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V62XBQQ/) It's a 200 GB SanDisk card that goes for around $70. If you don't think you'll need quite that much and want a somewhat better price per gig, 128 GB cards regularly go on sale for $40 at Amazon or other retailers.

u/DrakeFS · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I just built one from parts, do not be intimidated by what "could" go wrong. RetroPie has an amazing community (the Official Forum is a great place to get help and ideas from as well) behind it and a lot documentation. Both of which I did not need to tap. If you can follow the instructions to image the SD card, you should be just fine.

I bought:

u/Shadow_25_ · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch


I am going to buy today a Nintendo switch and I am trying to see what accessories I should buy for it.

This is the list I currently have:

  1. Charge Block Pro Nintendo Switch Accessories)
  2. HORI Switch Wired Internet LAN Adapter
  3. HORI Compact Play Stand for Nintendo Switch Officially Licensed by Nintendo
  4. (Mumba Nintendo Switch case, [Heavy Duty] Slim Rubberized [Snap on] Hard Case Cover for Nintendo Switch 2017 release (Black))
  5. [Orzly Glass Screen Protectors compatible with Nintendo Switch - Premium Tempered Glass Screen Protector TWIN PACK [2x Screen Guards - 0.24mm] for 6.2 Inch Tablet Screen on Nintendo Switch Console]
  6. Nintendo Switch Pro Controller
  7. SanDisk Ultra 200GB microSDXC UHS-I Card with Adapter(SDSQUAR-200G-GN6MA)

    Is there anything else that you would recommend or change from what I posted? From my understanding a cover for the dock is also recommended?

    Regarding the memory, I am buying two physical games, however I must likely will be buying more digitally in the future (probably).

    One of the things that give me a pause when I was searching for accessories is the Mumba case that I want to buy. I wish for the switch to have a good case just in case, but from I see the case won't allow other accessories while the switch is in it.

    And is a grip necessary when in handheld mode?

    Thanks for the help.