What you could do it's use a wired setup. Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?crid=1CQUYQMA5XPJM&keywords=ps4+controller+headset+adapter&qid=1554616889&s=gateway&sprefix=ps4+controller+headset&sr=8-15


Then connect this

https://www.amazon.com/ienza®-Headset-PlayStation-Converter-Talkback/dp/B00SZ2Q1I0/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=1CQUYQMA5XPJM&keywords=ps4+controller+headset+adapter&qid=1554616889&s=gateway&sprefix=ps4+controller+headset&sr=8-9


And then connect headsets to that.

For the time being, I use an Audeze LCD-2 Classic through a Schiit Lyr 2 and a Schiit Modi 2 Uber. I use Røde Procaster as a mic and Behringer Q502USB as a mixer.

I've listed my recommendations and suggestions below. There's also some info you should know if you want to get more value for your money. I know it's a lot, but I've explained in the least technical way I can and there are many benefits with this over all-in-one "gaming" headsets. Just ask me if you have questions.

Headphones:

Open-back

• AKG K612 Pro, K701, K702, K712 Pro, Q701
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD500x, AD700x, AD990x
  
• Beyerdynamic DT880, DT990
  
• Monoprice Monolith M1060
  
• Philips Fidelio X2, SHP9500
  
• Samson SR850
  
• Sennheiser Game One (headset), HD558/HD579, HD598/HD599
  
• Shure SRH1840
  
• Status Audio OB-1
  
• Superlux HD668B, HD681, HD681 EVO
  
  Closed-back
  
  
• AKG K52, K550
  
• Audio Technica ATH-MSR7
  
• Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus, DT770
  
• Monoprice Modern Retro
  
• Sennheiser Game Zero (headset)
  
• Shure SRH940, SRH1540
  
• Status Audio CB-1
  
• Superlux HD662, HD662 EVO, HD669
  
• V-MODA Crossfade M-100
  
  

  
  

  
  I have AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Beyerdynamic DT990 Edition (600 ohms), Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598 SR, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669 and Superlux HD681 EVO of these headphones, and can recommend them for different needs, preferences and budgets.
  
   
  
  The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.
  
  

• Open-back: the earcups have perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through. The sonic benefits with this is generally a larger soundstage and better imaging.
  
  
• Closed-back: the earcups have solid shells that isolate sound from passing through to various extent.
  
   
  
  Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.
  
  
• Balanced/flat/neutral: doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble. Rolled off sub-bass often gets a pass.
  
• Warm: emphasizes the bass.
  
• Dark: recesses the treble. A headphone can be warm and dark.
  
• Bright: emphasizes the treble.
  
• U-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble a little.
  
• V-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble more than U-shaped.
  
• Mid-forward: the mids are louder than the bass and treble. The mids may be emphasized or the bass and treble may be recessed.
  
  If you want louder rumble, then you want linear or emphasized sub-bass. This is easier to find in closed-back. Open-back typically has rolled off sub-bass with the exception of planar magnetic / orthodynamic headphones. If you come across HE400i, an open-back planar, then note that the revision had a backplate removed and therefore causes a bass roll-off, a larger soundstage and brighter treble than the original.
  
  If you want louder impact, then you want emphasized mid-bass.
  
   
  
  Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.
  
  
• Soundstage: is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. It's the size of the sound field. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more spatial, open and natural. You can't comprehend it without experiencing it.
  
  
• Imaging: is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.
  
  
• Separation: is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important for competitive shooters.
  
  

  
  

  
  Regarding virtual surround sound:
  
  You're going to come across a lot of stereo elitism in audio enthusiast forums if you bring up virtual surround sound. Virtual surround sound isn't bullshit or a gimmick. That's coming from someone who generally prefers stereo much more than virtual surround sound and has bought Q701, AD700x, DT990, Fidelio X2, HD598, HD700 and HD800 in pursuit of bigger and better soundstage and imaging to get the same three-dimensional space and environment of sound that virtual surround sound produces.
  
  Virtual Surround sound varies a lot from DSP (digital signal processor) to DSP (CMSS-3D, Dolby Headphone, SBX, etc.) How you perceive it compared to stereo also depends on the soundstage and imaging properties of the headphone and how well games are mixed. No matter how large the soundstage is and how good the imaging is, stereo doesn't sound fully three-dimensional as virtual surround sound at all times. Dialogues and very loud sounds like tanks, jets, trains, bonfires, collapsing buildings, galloping horses, etc. near you tend to sound very intimate and dominate in either ear when you don't face them.
  
  Virtual surround sound has its drawbacks too: it compresses and degrades the sound quality. I find it most noticeable with rain, waterfalls and splashing water; they sound akin to white and pink noise. Subtle details become faint or not audible. When headphones already have decent soundstage, imaging and separation, I find that virtual surround sound diffuses the positional audio and the ability to pick up audio cues. For competitive shooters, I only use stereo.
  
  I've used Dolby Headphone and SBX personally and listened to several others through videos on YouTube, and I prefer SBX from Creative when it comes to sound quality compared to Dolby Headphone and positional audio compared to all of them.
  
   
  
  Mics:
  
  Attachable to headphones
  
  

• Antlion ModMic
  
• Massdrop Minimic
  
• V-MODA BoomPro
  
  Alternatives
  
  
• Audio-Technica AT2020USB
  
• Blue Snowball
  
• Blue Yeti
  
• Neewer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone
  
• Samson Go
  
• Sony ECMCS3
  
• Zalman ZM-Mic1
  
  

  
  

  
  Sound cards:
  
  

• Astro MixAmp Pro TR
  
• Creative Sound BlasterX G1, Sound BlasterX G5
  
• Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC
  
  

  
  

  
  Headphone amplifiers and DACs:
  
  

• Audioengine D1 (both)
  
• Audio-gd NFB-11.28 (both)
  
• Creative Sound Blaster X7 (both)
  
• FiiO D3 (DAC)
  
• FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  
• Mayflower ARC (both)
  
• Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  
• Schiit Magni 3 (amp), Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  
• SMSL SD793-II (both)
  
• Topping A30 (amp), D30 (DAC)
  
  

  
  

  
  The PS4/DS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or an amp and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook.
  
  If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.
  
  There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.
  
  If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.
  
  

  
  

  
  Sound cards have an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. If you want to connect the headphone and mic (3.5mm mics, not USB mics) to the same source, then you have to use a sound card unless the amp has a separate jack for the mic and officially supports PS4, e.g. Mayflower ARC. Creative Sound Blaster X7's mic jack doesn't work with PS4. If the mic has an own cable and the source has only one jack for the headphone and mic, then you'll have to use a TRRS Y-splitter, also called a 4-pole Y-splitter. It has three black rings on the connector.
  
  If you don't mind the headphone cable and mic cable going different places, then you can connect the headphone to an amp and a DAC, and the mic to the controller, which requires a TRRS Y-splitter in order to work.
  
  USB mics connect directly to the USB port on PS4. You can also use an XLR mic, but they require a mixer. Interfaces don't work with PS4 because they require drivers.
  
  To use an amp, you need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. USB DACs may reverse the left and right channels or not work at all, so I have only included DACs that use optical, which is completely reliable. You can use an HDMI-to-optical converter if you have Slim.
  
  To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.
  
  

  
  

  
  Alternatively, you can use a sound card that merely functions as an audio USB adapter. Since the V-MODA BoomPro connects to the jack on the headphone and replaces the original headphone cable, you'll need to use a Y-splitter, which is included with the BoomPro.
  
  

  
  

  
  If you want to connect the headphone and mic (3.5mm mics, not USB mics) to the controller but want volume and mic controls, you can use either of these:
  
  

• adjustR
  
• Fosmon
  
• Insignia
  
• Lucid Sound AdjustR

I wonder if something like this would work/is worth it:

https://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG

I was in a similar situation and ended up getting one of these audio/mic controls. They plug right into the audio jack of the Dualshock 4 and let you mute the mic or change the volume whenever you want. I personally prefer the mic switch over the one in the vita earbuds (it's faster and easier to use).

Here is an image of how it looks like when attached to the DS4.

Edit: Forgot to mention you can use any earbud/headset with it.

I'm using ozone trifx with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG

https://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524263642&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=toggle+mute+mic+for+ps4

https://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG

https://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Controller-Fosmon-Headphone-Playstation/dp/B01N7HFX3J

https://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Controller-Adjuster-Adjustable-Playstation-4/dp/B06X6BR4QC

I literally just bought this -

Dualshock Mute Button

I like my Klipsch ear buds enough to just purchase a separate mute button over replacing them. I also have a set of Sennheiser RS170's for when I really want amazing audio quality and am not using a mic.

I hope this helps anyone that was having the same issue. I am also using a wired headset that is connected to my ps4 controller. I am sure there is another way to do this but I didn't feel like buying a wireless headset. I found the answer shortly after posting this. I was just messing around with my microphone settings and it started to work. Now I am able to mute my ps4 party chat and speak to my stream audience without bothering my friends on the chat. Not sure how to post pictures of this but I'll describe it as best as I can. Also I am using Windows 10 so I am not sure if this will work with other OS.
I went to the sound recording settings and made the streaming mic I use the default communication device. While making the headset microphone(ps4) a default device. On the remote play app I have the microphone icon active so when I speak my friends on the ps4 can hear me. I use a dongle that allows me to mute myself on the ps4. It is the AdjustR that can be purchased online. It is sold at Gamestop and Amazon.
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520974486&sr=8-1&keywords=adjustR
You might be able to find it at your local gamestop but it seems to be sold out online: https://www.gamestop.com/ps4/accessories/adjustr/124762

here is a video of what I did: https://youtu.be/lUtTR9oGEqg

I bought this for the mute button and it works perfectly for me. https://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG

Forgot to add if you want to mute your mic and stuff get one of these I don't have one but should work

https://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG

That's why you buy this adjustR Volume and Mic Mute control for PS4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185CVTDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_v9OIi3uBiKtGU

I use this. I don't know if its available somewhere else but others that are similar should work just as well.

Here ya go:

https://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG/

A very simple option. If you wanna get fancy, you could move to a small switch board.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GVFGB6N/

There is!

https://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467566398&sr=8-1&keywords=mic+mute+control

Believe it or not, they are actually cheaper at GameStop. Just picked one up for $7.49. Can't believe these aren't a more popular product!

I just saw this today in another thread here -- http://www.amazon.com/adjustR-Mic-Mute-control-playstation-4/dp/B0185CVTDG?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_sw_su_dp

Dug back into my history just to make sure you saw it. Looks like someone went out and made exactly what you were looking for... just use one of those tiny thumbtack mics plugged into this adapter.

I have the same issue because I use slightly older Astros. I just bought an adjustR Volume and Mic Mute control for PS4 . For my xbox one I had the Xbox One Stereo Headset Adapter . Could save you from buying 2 headsets.