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Reddit mentions of Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption

Sentiment score: 18
Reddit mentions: 44

We found 44 Reddit mentions of Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption. Here are the top ones.

Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption
Buying options
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    Features:
  • Secure encrypted wireless technology and repeats Z-Wave
  • Remotely turn load on/off
  • Report energy usage in watts or kwh
  • Bear up to 40 amps current of resistor loads
  • Z-wave certification Number: zc10-14090014
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height1.6 Inches
Length5.9 Inches
Number of items1
SizeSmall
Weight1 Pounds
Width4.7 Inches

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Found 44 comments on Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption:

u/chrisbrl88 · 43 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Correct. That would be the monitor. For actual control functionality, OP would have to look into wiring the receptacle to a smart switch, like this Z-wave. I was under the impression OP just wanted more of a plug-and-play solution. The Z-wave is more involved and allows remote control, but is more of a "power user" kind of thing.

u/kronicoutkast · 24 pointsr/homeautomation

I wanted to control my 240v AC unit too, ended up buying this:

Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nDbYAbHW5DMFN

I got an extension cord that would work for my AC unit and spliced in the switch. You could splice it into the cord from the AC if you want to.

Worked fantastic last summer.

u/shout4 · 6 pointsr/gpumining

Those are the smart sensors, They control the 3 exhaust fans per temp readings. They also act as motion sensors and turn the lights on in the room when I walk in. The white boxes on the right wall are 240v smart switches that control power on/off from my phone manually or triggered by scene i.e. temp to high, or ping failure reboot rig. Energy monitor installed inside breaker box also smart home (Z-Wave). All is controlled by a Vera smart home controller. Links below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151Z8ZQY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XD8WZX6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BX9P89Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519912082&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vera+plus+controller&dpPl=1&dpID=31jWnlwJITL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZU69DU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

u/syzygykb · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

I use one of these for an air compressor ( Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4tTTDb0JXP8HA )

u/redlotusaustin · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

You could do things like you're planning but I would add in a water-valve to cut the water in addition to the power (you want to cut both so the washer doesn't run while it's dry). I would also use Home Assistant instead of IFTTT, since it will be faster and won't rely on your internet being up to work. If you go with ZWave device, you'll need some kind of hub, which Home Assistant can act as (with a ZWave USB stick).

However, unless you want to tie this particular issue into a large home automation system (getting text messages when the leak sensor is triggered for example), you might be better off with something like this, which is an all-in-one system for exactly your use-case: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Detector-Shut-Off-Stopping-Detection/dp/B0742N3KHF/

Personally, I'd go with that kit, otherwise you're looking at:

u/01chickennugget · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

You could wire one of these in front of a plug:

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501764708&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+labs+heavy+duty

It uses zwave so you would need a controller that can talk to the device. I use one of these to drive a 220V pool pump. Works well. It will also return other sensor data like current draw and temperature of the switch.

u/jam905 · 3 pointsr/winkhub

You have several 220-240V z-wave choices that all work to control water/pool heaters and work with Wink:

u/Alwayssunnyinarizona · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

The one I have, as best I can tell, is no longer being produced (probably for good reason - there were a number of complaints about the zwave antenna).

It's direct successor is [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0)

There's also the Aeotec I mentioned, which is less polished but offers energy readings as well [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W)

u/jam905 linked me some instructions a while back to the relay he mentioned. In the end I was lazy and unmotivated so went with a finished product, but I'm sure it's a solid DIY. Cheaper and probably a little easier to repair should any one component fail.

u/jds013 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

If you have an indoor junction box, then you avoid environmental issues and locate the switch indoors. There are a few high current solutions - Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch (40 amps) is one, Linear makes another. You can control it with an outdoor Z-Wave temperature sensor.

u/0110010001100010 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I have this guy on my water heater: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBIRF5W/

u/darthgeckoman · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

I bought an Aeotec heavy duty switch and an extra dryer power cord. I then unhooked the original cord from the dryer, wired that into the switch and then ran the new dryer wire from the switch to the dryer.

Switch:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W

u/nobody2000 · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

It's not an outlet, but Aeon makes a heavy duty z-wave "switch" which will do the trick.

https://smile.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W?sa-no-redirect=1

It will do 40A

My I ask what you plan on using this for? If it's just monitoring, there are very easy options. If you need remote on/off control, then this will do it, but you're limited to only that.

u/SadZealot · 2 pointsr/askanelectrician

Looking through the options I can't really find an affordable, convenient option for this that wouldn't be a chinese product with little support and that wouldn't be a huge headache.

Without knowing about the specific family of home control/ app economy you use its hard to recommend any of them at all but I can tell you what I would do for the highest quality experience and ability for expansion.

Buy a contactor like this. Put it in a box, put the plug into the box, put a light switch on the wall, tie it into the coil of the contactor. Get a generic wifi light switch that works on 110 that ties into Google or Amazon that's cheap and easily replaced.

This is the best full product I could find but it's zwave so you'd need a hub, it costs twice as much as putting a contactor in and you have to hardwire it anyway.

To be fair though I'm in industrial automation so my solution to most problems is to put relays in it

u/Bluechip9 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

The Aeotec ZW078-A is the cheapest 240V relay.

(There are DIY solutions but this is the cheapest, certified (e.g. UL, MET, CSA, etc.) product.)

u/CynicallySane · 2 pointsr/smarthome

I would focus more on the smart switch aspect and less on the monitoring aspect. You could get an energy monitor that is capable of observing total consumption of your home. Look at Sense or Aeotec, they both have products for that. I think they can both slowly begin to identify individual devices, their consumption, and alert you when they're on or if they've been on for longer than a predefined amount of time.

There's a broader range of products that are simple z-wave devices and don't focus on energy monitoring. However, 20 Amp zwave deives are a bit hard to find. Aeotec has one for up to 220v and 40amps, which may work.

Go Control has a similar product for 20 Amp 120 circuits.

u/GraniteEcho · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

This is what I use for my dryer. It was the only energy monitor I could find for the high amperage.

Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GbEYAbZ9F3XTS

u/NestedNizmo · 2 pointsr/HomeKit

Had this in my save for later list. Sold out now but maybe you can find something like it else where.

u/Knoxie_89 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/?coliid=IH4X85Z8CQ1KM&colid=21XFU1YN0E3BW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

This is only splashproof, so you may want to put it in a protected location or in a bigger control box, or go with the GE version.

u/Imbuere · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

It's this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBIRF5W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've read in multiple places that it will work without a ground.

Thanks!

u/wwabc · 1 pointr/homeautomation

electric? this is good for up to 40A

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W

it would tell you the watts being pulled...

u/DavidTheMakewright · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This is the one I'm most inclined towards. Was hoping there were others who have tried to control water heaters, HVAC systems or larger appliances with some type of smart switch, and pick their brain a bit.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-ZW078-A-Z-Wave-Appliance/dp/B00MBIRF5W

u/tvbuttonmonkey · 1 pointr/homeassistant

There are also other zwave plugs. Attaching a link to a 40a plug. Should give you more than enough head room on the switch.


Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LFq4Db4TJG0YD

u/hunterstee · 1 pointr/homeautomation

No personal experience with it, but what about something like this?

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W

EDIT: I red gud...just noticed you're hoping for wifi. I'm not aware of anything like that.

u/cleansweep9 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This Aeotec Heavy Duty Appliance switch is the closest I've been able to find for this application. Sounds like it doesn't have enough current capacity for a standard american electric range, though.

u/ineedascreenname · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This isn't in wall, but this is what I use on a pool pump.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W

u/SufficientYear · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If found this this but it's $200. Not ideal. But they do exist so maybe you can find one cheaper somewhere.

​

Edit: Also this, which is a smart switch not a plug so you'd have to be comfortable installing it, or paying for someone to install it. Again, not ideal.

u/DrPapa · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If it's in the budget I would consider having the shutoff valve and the ability to cut power to the well pump. It does not take a lot of water to cause a lot of damage. Example: in my house the washing machine is in a finished space, If I were to detect a leak due to a blown hose there and simply cut the power to the well pump I would get at least 20 gallons of water into that room before the pressure in the tank would reduce enough to stop the flow. Conversely, having a shutoff valve would stop the flow almost immediately.

If you only have the budget for one, I would add the valve. The only failure mode that the power off protects you from that the valve doesn't is if the well bladder and tank were to both fail. In this case the leak would be upstream of the valve, and the pump would continually pump water into your basement. I had this happen to me once. Its sucks, but my understanding is that this is extremely rare. When I had the well people come out to fix it, they said that in 40+ years of digging wells they have never seen the bladder and tank both fail on a system. The problem is, that if you are not home to catch the problem, you could easily have hundreds of gallons of water pumped in. Luckily I was home. Although this failure may be rare, the cost of something like the module you link is extremely cheap insurance.

I am in the process of setting up my system right now. I have not settled on the electrical panel yet. The unit you posted may be overkill since it is rated for outdoor use. I have also been looking at this unit: Aeon Labs V3-26-AL001 It is rated at 40 Amps and also has power monitoring capabilities. So, if the pump is running more than usual it could indicate a leak somewhere where you don't have a sensor.

For the valve, I didn't want to fork up the $$$ for the Fortezz, but I was not impressed with the other options (i.e. LeakSmart, piggyback units...). I decided to roll my own using industrial actuated shutoff valves. I bought a Johnson Controls VA9203-AGA-2Z with a 1" valve as a new surplus item on ebay for $25. This unit has 10x the closing torque as the Fortrezz. It also has a spring return, so, if you lose power the unit will shut automatically. I plan on using a Z-wave relay to connect it to my SmartThings hub.

u/thebluehawk · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I don't remember who it was, but someone here was able to hook up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W

This way he could set up a schedule using the zwave software so the car would only charge during cheap electricity times. (Scheduled charging is good, but not very flexible. For example, if you tell your car to turn on the heat or a/c it will use wall power regardless of the time, and could use more expensive electricity).

You might (it's your responsibility to verify if that product will meet your needs) be able to hook this up and have it turned off, and you can control it from your phone when you want to use it.

u/not_jimothy · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Are you confusing a two-pole switch for a three way switch? As SophiaSingsTheBlues notes, a double pole/two-pole switch is used to carry 240 V.

OP: I don’t know of anything for HomeKit, but this Z-Wave device, along with Homebridge, might help. You'll see in the reviews and Q&A that people are using it for exactly this purpose, to control pool pumps.

u/TheJollyHermit · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Here is a discussion where a couple of options are discussed:
https://community.smartthings.com/t/240v-20-amp-outlet-or-load-controller/25104
including instructions with photos of how a user wired up an Aeon Labs controller to his similar outlet for a dryer and how to get it setup in smart things.

u/Tshootz · 1 pointr/ifttt

So I am just starting out in this wonderful world Home Automation and have kind of an obscure idea, but don't quite know how to get this to work.

I just purchased a SmartThings Hub, a 240v switch, an Ecobee 4 thermostat, and some window contact sensors. I unfortunately don't have Central AC, but there is a rather large window unit upstairs that I want to turn on if the windows are closed and the the indoor temperature is above 74.

Is it possible to build an applet within the IFTTT Platform that will look at SmartThings to see if the windows are closed AND check the indoor temperature before turning on the 240v switch?

If I'm not asking in the correct place please point me to where I should be asking this. Any help is appreciated!

u/he_who_lurks_no_more · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You can put an Aeon Labs ZW078-A https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W

I use one of these on my Electric car charger and it works perfectly. Added bonus is it meters the power so you can report on how much heating the driveway is costing you

u/joey52685 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Yeah there's a few of them out there. This one is zwave plus:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L2BizbK40W8TB

u/Suvega · 1 pointr/smarthome

You want this: Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AgVADbSZ5ATQG

Then get a 240v 2 phase plug and a socket. Wire the smart switch up to the two. So you have plug - switch - socket.

Then you plug your air compressor to this new thing you just made and the new thing to the wall.

You will need a hub to control it.

Bonus you also get current and electricity usage for free :)

u/b4c0n_l0v3r · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

>https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/

Have the 2nd one and worked great to control with a high voltage AC wall unit.