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Reddit mentions of AmazonBasics 2-Male to 2-Male RCA Audio Stereo Subwoofer Cable - 4 Feet

Sentiment score: 23
Reddit mentions: 38

We found 38 Reddit mentions of AmazonBasics 2-Male to 2-Male RCA Audio Stereo Subwoofer Cable - 4 Feet. Here are the top ones.

AmazonBasics 2-Male to 2-Male RCA Audio Stereo Subwoofer Cable - 4 Feet
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
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    Features:
  • IN THE BOX: (1) 4 foot 2-Male to 2-Male RCA audio stereo subwoofer cable
  • CRYSTAL CLEAR AUDIO: Enhances audio connections; ideal for home-entertainment and high-fidelity (HiFi) systems
  • RCA INPUT/OUTPUT: 2 RCA output (connect to either L or R input) and 2 RCA input; input can be high frequency (digital audio) or low frequency (subwoofer)
  • GOLD PLATED CONNECTORS: Corrosion-resistant 24K gold-plated full-metal connectors
  • RELIABLE PERFORMANCE: Eliminates unwanted noise/feedback for pure, clear audio; minimal signal loss for reliably consistent audio
  • COLOR-CODED COMPONENTS: Red/white color-marked connectors for quick, easy left-and-right hookups
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height0.5 inches
Length50.93 inches
Size4 Feet
Weight0.2910072 Pounds
Width0.5 inches

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Found 38 comments on AmazonBasics 2-Male to 2-Male RCA Audio Stereo Subwoofer Cable - 4 Feet:

u/polypeptide147 · 6 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

My go-20 for a $20 setup would be this:

Micca MB42x

Lepy amplifier

Some speaker wire

An RCA cable to hook it up.

That would be a great little system, especially if he plans on upgrading it in the future.

u/Tacanacy · 5 pointsr/PS4

For the time being, I use an Audeze LCD-2 Classic through a Schiit Lyr 2 and a Schiit Modi 2 Uber. I use Røde Procaster as a mic and Behringer Q502USB as a mixer.

I've listed my recommendations and suggestions below. There's also some info you should know if you want to get more value for your money. I know it's a lot, but I've explained in the least technical way I can and there are many benefits with this over all-in-one "gaming" headsets. Just ask me if you have questions.



Headphones:

Open-back

  • AKG K612 Pro, K701, K702, K712 Pro, Q701
  • Audio-Technica ATH-AD500x, AD700x, AD990x
  • Beyerdynamic DT880, DT990
  • Monoprice Monolith M1060
  • Philips Fidelio X2, SHP9500
  • Samson SR850
  • Sennheiser Game One (headset), HD558/HD579, HD598/HD599
  • Shure SRH1840
  • Status Audio OB-1
  • Superlux HD668B, HD681, HD681 EVO

    Closed-back

  • AKG K52, K550
  • Audio Technica ATH-MSR7
  • Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus, DT770
  • Monoprice Modern Retro
  • Sennheiser Game Zero (headset)
  • Shure SRH940, SRH1540
  • Status Audio CB-1
  • Superlux HD662, HD662 EVO, HD669
  • V-MODA Crossfade M-100



    I have AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Beyerdynamic DT990 Edition (600 ohms), Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598 SR, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669 and Superlux HD681 EVO of these headphones, and can recommend them for different needs, preferences and budgets.

     

    The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.

  • Open-back: the earcups have perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through. The sonic benefits with this is generally a larger soundstage and better imaging.

  • Closed-back: the earcups have solid shells that isolate sound from passing through to various extent.

     

    Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.

  • Balanced/flat/neutral: doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble. Rolled off sub-bass often gets a pass.
  • Warm: emphasizes the bass.
  • Dark: recesses the treble. A headphone can be warm and dark.
  • Bright: emphasizes the treble.
  • U-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble a little.
  • V-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble more than U-shaped.
  • Mid-forward: the mids are louder than the bass and treble. The mids may be emphasized or the bass and treble may be recessed.

    If you want louder rumble, then you want linear or emphasized sub-bass. This is easier to find in closed-back. Open-back typically has rolled off sub-bass with the exception of planar magnetic / orthodynamic headphones. If you come across HE400i, an open-back planar, then note that the revision had a backplate removed and therefore causes a bass roll-off, a larger soundstage and brighter treble than the original.

    If you want louder impact, then you want emphasized mid-bass.

     

    Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.

  • Soundstage: is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. It's the size of the sound field. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more spatial, open and natural. You can't comprehend it without experiencing it.

  • Imaging: is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.

  • Separation: is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important for competitive shooters.



    Regarding virtual surround sound:

    You're going to come across a lot of stereo elitism in audio enthusiast forums if you bring up virtual surround sound. Virtual surround sound isn't bullshit or a gimmick. That's coming from someone who generally prefers stereo much more than virtual surround sound and has bought Q701, AD700x, DT990, Fidelio X2, HD598, HD700 and HD800 in pursuit of bigger and better soundstage and imaging to get the same three-dimensional space and environment of sound that virtual surround sound produces.

    Virtual Surround sound varies a lot from DSP (digital signal processor) to DSP (CMSS-3D, Dolby Headphone, SBX, etc.) How you perceive it compared to stereo also depends on the soundstage and imaging properties of the headphone and how well games are mixed. No matter how large the soundstage is and how good the imaging is, stereo doesn't sound fully three-dimensional as virtual surround sound at all times. Dialogues and very loud sounds like tanks, jets, trains, bonfires, collapsing buildings, galloping horses, etc. near you tend to sound very intimate and dominate in either ear when you don't face them.

    Virtual surround sound has its drawbacks too: it compresses and degrades the sound quality. I find it most noticeable with rain, waterfalls and splashing water; they sound akin to white and pink noise. Subtle details become faint or not audible. When headphones already have decent soundstage, imaging and separation, I find that virtual surround sound diffuses the positional audio and the ability to pick up audio cues. For competitive shooters, I only use stereo.

    I've used Dolby Headphone and SBX personally and listened to several others through videos on YouTube, and I prefer SBX from Creative when it comes to sound quality compared to Dolby Headphone and positional audio compared to all of them.

     

    Mics:

    Attachable to headphones

  • Antlion ModMic
  • Massdrop Minimic
  • V-MODA BoomPro

    Alternatives

  • Audio-Technica AT2020USB
  • Blue Snowball
  • Blue Yeti
  • Neewer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone
  • Samson Go
  • Sony ECMCS3
  • Zalman ZM-Mic1



    Sound cards:

  • Astro MixAmp Pro TR
  • Creative Sound BlasterX G1, Sound BlasterX G5
  • Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC



    Headphone amplifiers and DACs:

  • Audioengine D1 (both)
  • Audio-gd NFB-11.28 (both)
  • Creative Sound Blaster X7 (both)
  • FiiO D3 (DAC)
  • FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  • Mayflower ARC (both)
  • Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  • Schiit Magni 3 (amp), Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  • SMSL SD793-II (both)
  • Topping A30 (amp), D30 (DAC)



    The PS4/DS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or an amp and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook.

    If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.

    There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.

    If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.



    Sound cards have an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. If you want to connect the headphone and mic (3.5mm mics, not USB mics) to the same source, then you have to use a sound card unless the amp has a separate jack for the mic and officially supports PS4, e.g. Mayflower ARC. Creative Sound Blaster X7's mic jack doesn't work with PS4. If the mic has an own cable and the source has only one jack for the headphone and mic, then you'll have to use a TRRS Y-splitter, also called a 4-pole Y-splitter. It has three black rings on the connector.

    If you don't mind the headphone cable and mic cable going different places, then you can connect the headphone to an amp and a DAC, and the mic to the controller, which requires a TRRS Y-splitter in order to work.

    USB mics connect directly to the USB port on PS4. You can also use an XLR mic, but they require a mixer. Interfaces don't work with PS4 because they require drivers.

    To use an amp, you need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. USB DACs may reverse the left and right channels or not work at all, so I have only included DACs that use optical, which is completely reliable. You can use an HDMI-to-optical converter if you have Slim.

    To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.



    Alternatively, you can use a sound card that merely functions as an audio USB adapter. Since the V-MODA BoomPro connects to the jack on the headphone and replaces the original headphone cable, you'll need to use a Y-splitter, which is included with the BoomPro.



    If you want to connect the headphone and mic (3.5mm mics, not USB mics) to the controller but want volume and mic controls, you can use either of these:

  • adjustR
  • Fosmon
  • Insignia
  • Lucid Sound AdjustR
u/e60deluxe · 5 pointsr/hometheater

go and get the self powered version of the speakers, the PB42x.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXAEPDC

hook them up to your TV using an RCA connection

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

in your TVs menu, under audio settings, set the audio output to variable. voila, your TV remote controls the volume of the RCA outputs.

your done at around $130-140.

start saving for subwoofer. preferably one with high passed outputs. if you are fine with sticking to 2ch for the foreseeable future, you can skip the receiver.

u/mack_k · 3 pointsr/barstoolsports

Yup. I run mine with a Marshall Stanmore and no receiver, works great. As long as your speaker is wired or has RCA ports and is powered, you'll be fine.

If you go the RCA route like I did, I recommend upgrading your cables. The ones that come with the RT81 kind of suck. I just got Amazon Basics ones and they're much better.

Amazon link

u/reggydavis · 3 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Considering these are desktop devices, your iPhone won't be able to connect to the DAC, only to the AMP. The Modi 3 comes with a micro usb cable you can plug into your laptop.

Connecting the DAC to AMP

Connecting iPhone to AMP (headphone jack)

u/TheDoctorHax · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

The black and white cables are meant to go to the speakers as an output, so plugging them into your controller is doing the opposite of what you want. You need to get an RCA to RCA cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aIOFzbWX49250) to connect the controller to the input of your subwoofer. The top 2 ports seem to be the inputs from the controller while the bottom 2 are the outputs to the speakers.

u/WadeMoreau · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

>Can I run the powered speaker through that DAC?

yes plug an RCA cable from the back of the DAC to the speaker

>I also don't have optical on my mobo if that affects anything.

no the DAC will also work through USB connection

>Should the 580X with 150Ohm be fine for the X6

I don't know much of anything about headphones, but apparently 150 ohm is still in a territory where portable players "don't need an amp", so I'm guessing you're good

>Is this setup good enough (not good just good enough)) for a budget upgrade from onboard audio and HD 280 + $15 logitech speakers.

again I don't know about headphones but yes the speakers will be a massive upgrade. If your logitech setup had a subwoofer you may have less bass now, but you can add a much better subwoofer than PC speakers have later if need be.

>Do I need to buy speaker wires for the Micca?

no, it comes with some.

u/georgevapes · 3 pointsr/VHS

Those are RCA sockets at the bottom. Does your TV have similar RCA inputs for video and audio? If so you can use a cable like this to connect the two. Just plug the white plug into the video out and red into audio out on the VHS at one end, and at the other end, white into video and red into audio in on the TV.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=2+rca+to+2+rca+cable&qid=1566621877&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If your tv only has HDMI you can get a RCA to HDMI like this.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-Composite-Adapter-3-RCA/dp/B07VRDQXNS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=2+rca+to+hdmi+cable&qid=1566622021&s=gateway&sprefix=2+rca+to+hdmi+cable&sr=8-3

And a RCA splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosyl-Splitter-Adapter-Female-Convert/dp/B01EHJ7AUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=2+rca+to+1+rca&qid=1566622256&s=gateway&sprefix=2+rca+&sr=8-7

Your VHS only has single channel audio, so you need to plug the red and white plugs into the splitter, then the splitter into audio out. Then plug the yellow into video out and the HDMI into your tv.

u/-bobles- · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The cable that you plug into your computer is 3.5mm, but the other end is a left and right rca plug (red and white) that plug into the speaker. This is a 3.5mm to rca adapter. What you would do is buy 2 rca Y splitters and 4 rca cables (buy 2 sets of red and white for less confusion example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D5H8P0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521013079&sr=1-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51tDOqNZw0L&ref=plSrch)

What you do is unplug the rca end from the speaker and put a Y splitter on both the red and white rca ends of the adapter cable. Now plug your new rca cables into the Y splitters, make sure that both red cables go into the splitter on the red end of the adapter and that both white cables go into the splitter on the white end of the adapter. Now run one white cable and one red cable to the red and white inputs on your speaker. Run the other red and white cables to the red and white inputs on your sub.

Now the computer signal goes to both the speakers and the sub.

When I said split both channels, I meant put a Y splitter on both the red and white ends of your 3.5mm to rca adapter. Red is the right channel, white is the left channel.

As for you confusion about maintaining more quality. Because it is possible to put a splitter on just the left OR right channel, if you did this the sub would only play bass from the left or right channel. This means that if a song has bass frequencies playing in only the left channel, but your sub is only plugged into the right channel, your sub would not play those frequencies. I'm not saying that you will get better quality, I'm saying that you have to plug both red and white into your sub so that it plays all the bass it is supposed to.

The sub does not send a signal to the Edifiers. With the splitters, your computer sends 2 signals, one to the sub and the other to the Edifiers.

u/RewindCinema · 2 pointsr/podcasts

> Behringer U-Control UCA202

So, first off, you'll need some RCA to RCA cables.

The idea of a mix-minus is that you're looping the "output" back into the "input." Skype only hears the first input on your interface, so that's where you'll need to connect your microphone (unless you're using the built-in mic). The other output will need to be connected to the other input.

I'm not exactly sure how to set that up on your specific setup because I am not familiar with this interface. Most of them have some sort of software that allows to decide where to route audio, but I don't know the limitations of this one.

This is a good video that explains the basics of a mix-minus. I'd give that a watch.

u/mattenthehat · 2 pointsr/audiophile

First, to connect the amp to the PC, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter like this. Just plug the 3.5mm end into the output on your computer, and the RCA end into whichever input you like on the amp (they're all identical, just named so that you can remember what is what). Make sure to go white-to-white and red-to-red to get left and right correct.

Then you just need speaker wire from the amp outputs to each of your speakers. Just use either the A or the B outputs (they are the same). Again, make sure to go from the left output to the left speaker and the same for the right. Also, make sure that the negative terminal of the amp hooks up to the negative (black) terminal on the speakers, and the positive on the amp goes to the positive (red) on the speakers.

Finally, just use a reglar RCA cable to go from the "pre out" on the amp to the input of your subwoofer, again being sure to go red-to-red and white-to-white on both the amp and subwoofer ends.

u/GbMaxSE · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Well you've got a subwoofer, and an amplifier that isn't meant to work with a subwoofer, so that's the bulk of the problem.

The TV has a headphone and an optical out... the Headphone output you can use with a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable, which is good... but The BasX S8 has line level in and out, but that's only going to work with one source, so no matter what there are going to be sacrifices made, here.

​

Here is my proposed method:

​

u/qMorick · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.

EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.

u/RSR9357 · 1 pointr/hometheater

I meant if I took just one of these two cables from this pair, would it still work like a regular subwoofer cable? I already have an older version of this cable and thought I could maybe plug one side of the cable into the AVR and the other into the left RCA input in the back. Does that make more sense?

u/burritosmash · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Thanks for the reply!
 

Got these as well: 2male-2male RCA cable and two Mediabridge Speaker Cable vs wire.
 

Should this do the trick?

u/Prince_of_Darimar · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

Either get the JDS Labs Atom Amp and OL DAC ($200 + $15 shipping), or save a little bit of money and get a Monoprice Liquid Spark and a Massdrop Grace SDAC ($180 + free shipping). Either option is great, with the JDS Labs option being simpler to get a hold of (same online store) and the other option being slightly cheaper. Neither will disappoint, and both are a little bit better than a Schiit Stack.

​

JDS Labs option:

https://jdslabs.com/product/atom-amp/

https://jdslabs.com/product/ol-dac/

​

Other option:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33304

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-grace-design-standard-dac

​

Don't forget to get Amazon Basics RCA cables and a decent usb cable to hook them up.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=sxin_2?keywords=rca+cable&pd_rd_i=B01D5H8P0G&pd_rd_r=d5b4131b-5bb5-439b-9b5c-11a205d8a3df&pd_rd_w=3owY2&pd_rd_wg=6yjsC&pf_rd_p=0395a9fd-d124-46c0-a48f-d8582ed1a45c&pf_rd_r=J1JWK7YFY9D8XK5S47XX&qid=1555197970&s=gateway

​

For the OL DAC:

https://www.amazon.com/JSAUX-Printer-Scanner-Brother-Lexmark/dp/B07KXRW7FN/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=usb+type+a&qid=1555198004&s=gateway&sr=8-17

​

For the Grace SDAC:

https://www.amazon.com/Android-JSAUX-Charger-Braided-Compatible/dp/B07DFC297R/ref=sr_1_17?qid=1555198129&s=gateway&sr=8-17&srs=18609081011

u/Kesild · 1 pointr/audiophile

Just bought aJDS Atom and a Modi 2 uber for my akg k7xx. I haven't ever bought an amp/dac (previously used akg 240 with nothing) so I'm not to sure what set up to expect. I have about 6 days before that get to be and I don't really know if all I'll need is something like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G . Would appreciate the help!

u/letmejustsee · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm getting line noise when I connect my RCA cable from my amp to my powered speakers.

The cable is basically like a $0.99 RCA cable. Would this be solved if I got a shielded cable like this AmazonBasics one? Or do I need a twisted pair cable like this one? I know about 15% of what I'd need to know to understand what causes signal noise. So I couldn't tell if you twisted pair and shielded cables are even mutually exclusive... I already have a length of this speaker wire... is this (+ terminations) all I need?

Here's a diagram. The red port is the one that results in line noise when connected. (They're all plugged into the same outlet.)

u/compubomb · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If you can afford it, pick up one of these to go along with your SMSL, https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Sanskrit-Optical-Coaxial-Decoder/dp/B00SY9RBOM, then you'll have additionally a usb dac + rca out's, and then you can really get going.. you might also consider picking up https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10906&cs_id=1090602&p_id=9723&seq=1&format=2 which will help fill in your little audio experience. takes a line-in & line-out back into your amp, and then you got sub-base as well. I love these rca cables, they sound amazing, https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

u/MoogleMan3 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

IMHO, short cables stick out more than regular ones because of how stiff they end up being. Just get a good set of regular length rca cables and drape the excess behind your desk. I have a set of schiit's pyst cables and they're ok, but still not as good as regular rca cables.

Edit to add: Keep in mind if you'll only be using a single source, your dac doesn't need to be front and center. It can be hidden under your desk on a shelf or attached to the bottom of your desk with some dual lock. Longer rca cables would facilitate this.

u/MankYo · 1 pointr/audiophile

Use better cable from the turntable to the pre-amp. The included cables from the Mexican discount store do not appear to be thick enough to be properly shielded. Shielding is important because the turntable provides a very weak signal that gets amplified at the pre-amp, which means that noise picked up here will be amplified a lot.

The simple Amazon Basics cable will be fine. The RGB component video cable from your old video game system or DVD player will be fine (but a bit long).

​

u/l0n3wanderer · 1 pointr/headphones

Ok, I think I got this.

-

  1. So, I plug PC to Modi, how it is now.
  2. Modi to Mixer via RCA male to male in input 1.
  3. Monitor line out to Mixer via RCA to 3.5mm in input 2.
  4. Magni to Mixer via RCA male to male in output.
  5. Headphones into Magni, how it is now.

    So, it should look like this? My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

    Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?
u/Vanillayote · 1 pointr/vinyl

I'm no audiophile but your average speaker wire will do to connect the Amp to the speakers. The record player>preamp>Amp can be done with RCA audio cables. The same kind youd use for the back of your tv before Hdmi.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HdQ6Bb96MT9KX

RCA cables

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_WeQ6Bb02GKQC6

Speaker wire

You can pick them up at any store that sells electronics really. Walmart, target, ect ect

u/The_Scrunt · 1 pointr/techsupport

Scratch all that. On the back of your TV, you should see two RCA sockets labeled 'L - AUDIO - R'. One white, one red.
Look out/buy an RCA to RCA cable, plug end into the RCA sockets on the TV, and the other end into the corresponding 'Audio Out' sockets on the headphone base station. Easy peasy.

The other advantage of using the RCA sockets is that they'll provide line level audio to the base station instead of the amplified signal the headphone socket would provide. This should avoid clipping (distortion) and give you better overall audio quality.

u/Soapy1209 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Can you take a quick look?

Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H8P0G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Monoprice:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-102869-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B002JTV7UM

Which one would be my best bet? (Build quality/overall quality/thickness/inner quality of conductors)

u/omnibot5000 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Assuming everything works, all you need is speaker wire and an RCA cable going from your TV's audio out (which it hopefully has- if it doesn't but has a headphone jack, that will also work) to one of the inputs on the receiver. What model TV do you have?

u/27buckets · 1 pointr/hometheater

So would this one work for the sub? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8lpgAb4K6M7B1

And then something like this for each speaker? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I52I2PU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ippgAbVW1K907

Is there a cheaper option/alternative for the already pre-made speaker wires? And any HDMI works on the TV to receiver connection right?

u/the_blue_wizard · 1 pointr/audio

As others have said, simply search Amazon for "Bluetooth Receiver" and pick one you like in a price range you can afford. You will find hundreds of them.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bluetooth+receiver&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

And then using, most likely, RCA-RCA cable of the appropriate length, connect the Bluetooth Adapter to the CD Input on the Amp, and logically select CD on the front panels source selector of the Amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

Though there are many similar RCA-RCA Cables to choose from -

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RCA+cable&i=electronics&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

You would prefer to have a Bluetooth Adapter that supports version 4.0 or higher, and that has the APT-X or APT-X HD feature.

The ESINKEN and the LOGITECH look pretty much identical, check the specs, but likely either one will do, both about $22 -

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/

Range on the above is pretty much standard at 30ft to 50ft line-of-sight.

There are better Bluetooth Devices, but they cost a bit more money -

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Certified/dp/B01H6I3YGK/

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B07BQYYDNJ/

Again, how far do you want to take it, because there are Bluetooth Devices that can go well above $100.

u/Mad_Economist · 1 pointr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

Depends on how complicated you want to get with it. The subwoofer has a lowpass on its inputs, but no passthroughs - the simplest option would be a cable coming from your stereo output (presumably the audio interface I recommended?) that splits into two outputs in parallel (something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1-Male-2-Male-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/) but with [suitable adapters] (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GPR-101-Adaptors-Black-Pieces/dp/B000068O3S/) for where you need 1/4" jacks, for example) and connecting the left and right channels to both the sub input and the speaker inputs that way. You could achieve the same result with a set of normal RCAs or other suitable cables and a splitter/Y adapter/etc, so on, so on - the basic theme here is "speakers in parallel with sub".

Alternatively, if you have access to a source with a subwoofer output separate from the speakers (ex. some consoles, most PC rear panel I/O), you'd probably just need a TRS>RCA cable for that connection.

More complicated would be something like a MiniDSP or similar, which would have separate outputs for each speaker, and could also be used to do correction of the in-room response of the system - with this, you could do things like highpassing the speakers for higher maximum output/lower distortion. Some software allows audio interfaces/sound cards to do this job as well, although this can be complex.

u/duki512 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Thanks for the reply. Ideally less than $150.
So I am quite unfamiliar with amps and again, how these connect. Under the questions, some people are saying this does not support a subwoofer because it does not have a subwoofer output. I am assuming this is talking about the output commonly found in 2.1 systems?

So for connecting all of these together. Will it be pc -> amp via 3.5mm to rca cable -> Subwoofer using something like this to the line in on the sub? -> then connect the line out on the subwoofers to the individual speakers using these wires?