Reddit mentions of Anker [Upgraded Version] USB 3.0 SuperSpeed 10-Port Hub Including a BC 1.2 Charging Port with 60W (12V / 5A) Power Adapter [VIA VL812-B2 Chipset and Updated Firmware 9081] AH231

> During software setup of new sensors, you are asked to go to the center of the room, lift the touch to your eye level, and click the trigger to let Oculus know where the center should be. With a three-sensor setup, you must orient yourself in one very specific way – face one sensor, and keep the rest two at your 3 o’clock and 9’oclock, respectively.

As far as I know, the only important thing here is that your Touch's LEDs must be clearly visible to all of your sensors. This is because this step is used to calibrate the relative position of the sensors. If you have four sensors, this gets trickier - you would probably want to kneel and hold the Touch upside-down over your head (so that all sensors can see the plastic ring with the LEDs clearly). In my case, it would not let me progress past this step at all when the third sensor could not see my Touch, but it is possible to get in the bad scenario where the third sensors sees the Touch but does not see enough LEDs to get a good fix on its position, so you end up with a wrong calibration.

> I didn’t realize that the sensor I put behind me must sit in a corner, not in the middle of the wall. All three sensors should be located at corners.

This is not strictly necessary, as long as all three sensors can see the Touch clearly during setup. You can try the "kneel and hold Touch upside down over your head" approach I described above. However, a sensor in the middle of your back wall will tend to lead to poor tracking in both the back corners due to limited sensor FOV, so they should be excluded from your play space. The Oculus diagram will show you the sensor FOV so you can see if you properly removed the area outside it.

> The right Touch controller sometimes gets into a mode where your virtual hand slowly drifts away from you, all by itself. When it gets far enough, the system snaps it back to you. Then it drifts away again, and the cycle repeats. If you remove the battery from the Touch, then put it back, the problem is often fixed.

I encountered this bug a couple times and needed to power cycle my Touch even though I did the other setup steps correctly. I think it happens when the Touch is poorly tracked for a while due to intermittent occlusion and it puts the software filter into a bad state. Sometimes I manage to correct it by just waving the Touch around over my head, but I hope Oculus can fix it properly.

> Inadequate USB bus power [...] I bought instead an USB hub with power adapter

Yep. I bought the Anker USB 3.0 SuperSpeed 10-Port Hub with 60W Power Adapter. It's cheap, gives plenty of power, frees up my USB ports, and avoids taking up a PCI slot.

Powered hubs are a must if your old hub wasn't powered with the x52 that was probably a reason why it disconnected. Personaly I use This Hub It is usb 3.0 but i put my phone Track IR Warthog Stick and throttle and a bluetooth adaptor all on it with no issues.

I have two of these and they seem to work just fine. I haven’t had any issues with them.

Anker 10-Port USB Data Hub with 60W Power Adapter

Not OP, and this is not the same one I have, but it's very similar and I've liked this brand for cables and other gadgets for a while now (no affiliation, no bamboozles):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NGQWL2/

Nine usb 3.0 ports, plus one charging-only port. Simple design, no wacky angles or weird shark fin bullshit, and all the ports are facing the same direction (unlike some hubs that have ports facing every direction like a Y-splitter for garden hoses). And, standalone power supply so you can charge up basically anything on a single hub without drawing from the PC.

A good option http://amzn.com/B005NGQWL2

It could also be what /u/Mikazah said as well, that hub does have an awfully high number of 1-star reviews.

There's a lightning deal on Amazon right now for a 10 port Anker hub for $40 that ends in 1.5 hours.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NGQWL2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481825323&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41WCp%2Bk%2BzJL&ref=plSrch

"... while the other 9 ports charge at speeds of up to 0.9 amps each, with 10 amps overall among 10 ports."

I think it would work. I've never used this item personally, but I am a big fan of Anker batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2/ this ?

Anker 9 port USB 3.0 hub. This one is on the higher-end at $60.

I would just buy a USB 3.0 hub and a longer USB 3.0 cable. I bought a 6 foot cable personally.

cable

hub

I love my anker 10 port USB hub. Good build quality and not too expensive.

Edit: include link

I have the 9+1 port that is power off the wall from amazon. [This one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Could it be the computer its self not be able to handling those ports?

I have an Early 2015 13" rMBP and currently have all of my gear connected via a USB hub.

I'm using the Focusrite Scarlett 18i8 (1st generation) at 24/96 in Ableton Live 9 and there is no noticeable difference in latency when it's connected to the hub or plugged in directly to the onboard USB port.

I've been using this 9-port Anker USB 3.0 hub since I bought this MBP a few months ago, and I can't honestly say anything bad about it. I've got two bus-powered USB HDDs (Western Digital) connected to it, two bus-powered MIDI keyboards/controllers, the USB-MIDI data connections from three synths, and the data connection to the 18i8. The hub is powered by an included AC power adapter, and it all runs swimmingly. The price wasn't too bad either.

Probably sounds like I'm shilling for Anker here, but this particular unit was mentioned quite a few times in my searches for a reliable and stable hub and I'm happy to say that it's done the job perfectly. I haven't looked much into the USB-C standard and whether or not you could buy the cable necessary to convert from USB-C to the USB (3.0 Type B SuperSpeed) connector that this hub uses; if so, I can at least say that this one hub will do what you want. Statistically speaking, I'm sure that means that there are many others out there that perform just as well – if not better.

I have the same brand but with more ports: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I've already filled it up. Works great, it's the best hub I've ever had.

I use an Amazon Basics USB3 extension cable with mine and have zero issues with clicks or pops.

In fact here's my whole chain

Windows 10

Asus ROG STRIX 270 motherboard with Intel USB3 controller eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft) in XHC mode.

Anker 10-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub

Amazon Basics USB3 6ft extension cable

I currently have a Sabernet 4 port USB hub that is a 2.0 in and out port. Charging speeds are slow, data transfer speed is at 2.0 speeds, however it does have a powered hub available so it can charge at regular speeds.

I recently needed more USB ports, as I only have 2 total on my laptop. I wanted 10 total. This is Ankers 10 port USB hub, 9 with data transfer and either 2.0 or 3.0 charging, I do not know if there is a difference, as well as a 10th fast charging port at the very bottom.

So far I've had 6 ports plus the charger plugged in and in use, all functioning and charging at expected speeds for each port (the speed charging port estimates just under 2 hours for the S7 Active and the ASUS ROG, about a hour and a half for the S6 Edge, while the data ports all list roughly 2hr 30min to 3 hours.

Most USB hubs can be daisy-chained, usually the max is around 64 USB ports total.

I've only had this for a few weeks, but it's been treating me just fine. I have noticed that I need to unplug it, and other plugs, when booting my laptop into Windows 10, but not MacOS. This is an issue I've had in the past and I believe is mostly a Windows issue, and not related to the USB hubs specifically. However, it's worth noting.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This works well for me. most of my phones run at ~.9 A so its perfect, my TF201 is plugged into the 2.1 A charger.

This one.

Edit: formating

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VDVCQ84/

it's big and beefy, and it powers my pi and the 6 drives I have plugged in.

seems they have a newer one, not tried it..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NGQWL2

Good thing to know, This is the other I was considering but its also a 3.0 HUB, I'll keep looking: http://www.amazon.com/Release-Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Charging-Adapter/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1374861578&sr=1-2&keywords=Usb+HUB

I would try a single, powered, USB hub as the power supply for all the devices, but I have a couple of these lying around from an old project. I don't know that this would solve your problem, but I would be surprised if it didn't.

Why not a hub like this: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-SuperSpeed-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2 ?

Yep. I'm actually using on of those long with an Anker 9-Port. That hub looks stylish as hell and it's got an extra "charge only" port. Perfect for the fan! Only thing you've gotta keep in mind is that if you use that same hub, do not have it plugged into a USB 3.0 port. You'll only get like <100 MHash/s. Keep it on a 2.0 port and you'll be a-ok!

Something like this? : https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-SuperSpeed-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496005286&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=usb+hub&psc=1

for what its worth i had a horrible time trying PCI cards on my older pc, I went through two and one card just didn't have any USB ports work and the other was very flaky with the ports.

I eventually changed PCs (time to upgrade) but even still didn't have enough USB3 ports for everything, I switched to a 10 port USB external hub hooked into one of my USB3 ports and everything is working much better. Both my Rift sensors are plugged into the Anker hub as is my xbox one elite wireless dongle, webcam, and a backup hard drive. I know people will say a PCI-e card will be better/faster than a external USB hub but at this point I am just happy to not have constant errors and fighting driver issues. One of the ports is a charging port too (top one) and I use it for my phone.

https://smile.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-SuperSpeed-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2

^ thats obviously USA but I think that 10 port hub is pretty commonly sold everywhere.

I want to have several devices plugged into my computer via USB at all times. This will include my USB hub (powered with AC adapter), mouse, keyboard, webcam, USB microphone, wireless headphone charger, Xbox One controller adapter, external HDD (powered with AC adapter)
, and 2 USB powered SSDs.


What should be plugged into the USB hub and what shouldn’t? I’m assuming m+kb, and controller adapter should not be plugged in due to latency. But how about the webcam, mic, and 3 external drives? I do record gameplay through OBS so I don’t want bad quality with the webcam or mic. I also use my external drives to store games that I play every once in a while.

Nevermind, found it: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Adapter-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497551223&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+sync+hub

Buy a USB-A hub and a USB-C adapter.

It's kinda clunky, but there are no good powered USB-C hubs right now.

USB-A hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NGQWL2

USB-C adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DRG8RR

Maybe you can take one of them USB PCIe cards out and use something like this powered USB Hub instead?

Let me know what you think of this. If you want all the USB 3.0 ports you mentioned, you will need to get some USB adapters, I think this or that would suit your needs or could add an internal USB 3.0 hub like this but they only add 4 ports instead of the 13 of the external one that I listed.

If you want a good monitor, check out the Asus PB287Q 28.0" 3840x2160 60Hz Monitor.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $328.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $96.99 @ Jet
Motherboard | Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $159.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO 2TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $648.92 @ B&H
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $649.99 @ B&H
Case | Corsair 760T Black V2 ATX Full Tower Case | $162.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic G-750 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $93.99 @ SuperBiiz
Optical Drive | LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $46.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2498.51
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $2478.51
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-03 19:48 EST-0500 |

Or if you wanted to go SLI...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $328.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $96.99 @ Jet
Motherboard | Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $159.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO 2TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $648.92 @ B&H
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $649.99 @ B&H
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $649.99 @ B&H
Case | Corsair 760T Black V2 ATX Full Tower Case | $162.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Jet
Optical Drive | LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $46.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $3174.50
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $3154.50
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-03 19:51 EST-0500 |

Yeah, the only one I might try would be the Anker 10 port USB 3.0 version, which has a 5 amp power supply, but that's a $60 hub. The Amazon Basics version has 5 regular ports on the back, plus 2 "high capacity" 2.1 amp charging ports on the front. The one I have on my desk, I use the rear ports for all my devices (mouse, keyboard, etc), and have a micro USB cable hooked up to the front for when I need to charge my daily phone (Galaxy S3) at my desk. It keeps up with the charging just fine.

I've got a 9 port USB 3.0 hub on my 12 South Backpack. Makes a HUGE difference.

http://www.amazon.ca/Release-Anker®-Uspeed-Charging-Adapter/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396054653&sr=1-1&keywords=9+port+usb+hub

If you want more than 10 ports, each running at 2.1A, something like that exists. But it costs $800. The cheapest you'll likely find is around $200. Needing 2.1A per port brings you into the range of devices used by schools to charge their fleets of iPads. If you can make do with a dedicated "charge port" on a USB hub (you can still sync the iPad over Wi-Fi), then you can get away for much less.

You could daisy chain two 10-port hubs together and get 17 usable ports for data (and 2 for charging). I've had good luck with the Anker "10"-port hub.

You are charging via USB? Or the wall?

USB 2.0 is 2.5W and 3.0 is 4.5W. If you are using computer USB to charge, this is accurate as that is the max ouput of the USB port. You need a smart powered usb hub that has charging capabilities.

For example:

http://www.amazon.com/Charging-Adapter-VL812-B2-Chipset-Firmware/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_25?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1405220338&sr=1-25

Or charge it via the wall.

I have the five port version of this sitting on my desk. After several years of daily active use and unplugging/plugging, the data port died, but it works OK as a charger, so it remains present.

I would go with your co-workers recommendation Mainly because being able to flip power out at a switch as opposed to plugging/unplugging can be useful.

I have an older Anker that is now discontinued, but either one of these should fit the bill:

• https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charging-Adapter-Included-VL812-B2/dp/B014ZQ07NE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484614305&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb+hub
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1484614305&sr=8-8&keywords=anker+usb+hub
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-SuperSpeed-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1484614305&sr=8-7&keywords=anker+usb+hub

and this USB hub (http://www.amazon.com/Charging-Adapter-VL812-B2-Chipset-Firmware/dp/B005NGQWL2/ref=pd_cp_pc_2)