Reddit mentions of ASUS RT-N12 N300 WiFi Router 2T2R MIMO Technology, 4K HD Video Streaming, VoIP,Up to 300 Mbps,Black

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO just have all of your devices connect to this and connect it to their WiFi. Some devices will detect bridging and kick it off but I'd say less than 5% of RV parks would have their shit set up to that degree.

Dude you can get almost any router on the market and it will be far too good for your shorty speeds.

I've had a lot of luck with this ASUS RT-ARCH13 deployed in other people's houses that did not want any fuss at all. It does not support third party firmware, and that is the reason I think it is so cheap, but it is solid with stock firmware. I never hear cries for help from anyone I set up with this unit. It's selling for $60 right now, and has 5GHz wireless and gigabit LAN ports, and can work with far higher speeds if you get some in the future:

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Super-Fast-Gigabit-MU-MIMO-RT-ACRH13/dp/B01LXL1AR8

If you want to go really cheap, but with a model that has stood the test of time and DOES support third party firmware (you might not care), here is the old ASUS N-12, which only has the 2.4 GHz wireless network, but should still be more than enough for your trickle down Internet speed. It's $30 new, but honestly you can probably find one of these for <$10 if you look around at used equipment places:

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-N300-Technology-streaming-performing-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO

You might just want to ask around your social group for any used router they have and don't use, like any "N" class router. Your speed just needs any semi-modern wireless equipment.

You've got two real options:

First is a switch like this for like ten bucks

This technically puts you on whatever network the campus' router is putting you on. They could keep everything isolated on a per port basis... or they could have you networked to internal resources... or even to the entire dorm. You could probably tell by opening up network places and seeing if anything pops up.

Second is a router. I'd say get a wireless one and then you'd be able to share your own wireless SSID to your phones/tablets/laptops or whatever. For 30$ you can get this Asus one. I like Asus because it's pretty easy to configure their stuff and you're able to use it as an AP, Repeater, Router or a plain old switch if you want to.

I'd suggest a router so you'll have your own firewall and you'll be able to setup your own wireless network in your dorm.

You could also use a router with a repeater function and just run Ethernet from the router to your comp. Using this method, you could position the router anywhere in the room you needed it, including high up on a wall.


I used 2 of these in upstairs windows to get my in-laws on our home network, so they could access our movies.

http://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO

Yup. You can do this with almost any wifi router, though newer one's might have an actual AP mode to make life easier. Here's a manufacturer faq on how to do it for those without an AP mode - http://www.tp-link.com/us/faq-417.html

Basically just assign it an IP on your network so if you're using 192.168.0.xxx assign it it 192.168.1.yyy , where yyy is an unused number, and then disable DHCP. Setup wifi, then connect from LAN port to LAN port (not WAN) and you're set.

Or you can also get a dedicated wifi AP like this https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO

It's good and cheap, but only 10/100 so as long as your incoming internet speed is slower than 100Mbps, you're good. Just set it up in AP mode, setup wifi and connect it to your router.

>I'm not sure why you're going off about 800mbit Ethernet.

Because that's what my router can easily do over Ethernet.

>needless FUD

What? No.

So you already had a Pi, doesn't make it free. You still paid $30 for it.

No case? You're just asking for dust to make a mess of the thing. Having just the bare board out all the time isn't a great idea. $5

USB WiFi for $5? Is it anywhere close to reliable? I highly doubt it. Does it support AP mode? There is a better chance of it snowing in Florida.

I'll let you have the SD card as people probably do have some laying around.

And the powersupply I'll possibly let slide.

So you're looking at $55 at the minimum even if you already have a few things, and around $75 if you don't. Want to know what you can get for $30 (currently $20)? An ASUS RT-N10P

And I guarantee that will perform better than the Pi. Step up a little bit to the RT-N12 and you really start blowing it away. And it's still under $55.

The Pi is not ideal at all for being used as a router. It's a nifty proof of concept or just as figuring out how a router works, but it's terrible at it. Especially when you can get any ASUS router and be miles ahead, or even be easily sub-$20 and get this Rosewill

Really, anything is better than the Pi for handling networking. If it had multiple Ethernet ports run directly from the SoC and not over USB, maybe. Ethernet over USB is about the worst case scenario.

Sure it may work for you, but it is not something I'd recommend to anyone that actually could use a router.

Make your roommate chip in a little bit more and get an Asus RT-N12.

While burying cable or fiber optic is the ideal solution, I agree with you that this would be a great place to use a simple wireless bridge. The bridge units you linked would be great for their distance, but I would add that the Access Point you linked is overkill if they're trying to keep a low budget, any half-decent $30 router (like this one) can be put in AP mode and easily cover a small cottage.

If you're going to end up buying new hardware, I'd suggest going with Powerline ethernet, unless you really want to buy a new router/wireless bridge. It will be be less clutter, cheaper, and more reliable (than cheap wireless bridge alternatives).

Out of the box Wireless Bridge capable routers, you could get something like this TP-LINK.

I'd suggest any Asus router, and flash tomato on it. Something cheap like this N-12 would do. I like the asus routers because they are unbrickable; perfect for messing about with the firmware.

It's a lot of things - but your internet is likely a component. The poor netcode quality of nintendo's first party games (and I love smash but it's worse than 90s era netcode) and the poor quality of the networking, and especially the wifi chip itself all go together with what might otherwise be a good enough network for online play.

Job number one is to go wired if you are playing docked. The adapters are cheap and you do not need a nintendo official one - this one will work just dandy.

Wireless inherently loses packets and isn't perfect and is higher latency than wired. If you can go wired at all, do it. If you want to go further, with typical home network infrastructure your best bet to reduce as much routing/fuckery as possible is to give your switch a static IP and then in your router set it as the DMZ - this will allow it to communicate directly to the internet, remove the need to ever forward ports and remove all routing components entirely - it's about as direct a connection as you can get, and most consumer routers support this. If you are using a "router" or all in one/gateway unit your ISP provided, knock that off. Ask them to put it in bridge mode and hook up your own router. I used a cheap ASUS router for a very long time and it worked just great - and lets you have a ton of control over your network. This often isn't possible with ISP provided equipment.

My current network setup is much more complicated, including a couple thousand dollars of very high end enterprise-grade access points in a mesh network. It's incredibly high quality and I still don't game on wireless for anything competitive because wifi always adds some latency and some jitter/packet loss/inconsistency.

But even on the absolute best possible connection, connected to someone else with the best possible connection, you'll still have issues. Sometimes smash is shitty with a buddy of mine with a similar setup for no explicable reason. And it's p2p so the only remaining issue is either network fuckery with the switch/netcode itself, or fuckery with our local ISP, but testing doesn't reveal any issues when it's happening.

So the moral of the story - there is a lot you can do to improve it, but it'll never, ever be perfect. It sucks and there are a lot of reasons for it but it's still worth some effort to make it better if you game a lot - it'll help with everything, on other consoles and PC as well.

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO

Would be my choice

A router won't add much in terms of power draw, a few watts when it's in use and you can turn it off whenever you're not using it. Something like this is fairly small and can be easily mounted to a wall or underneath a shelf with velcro.

In terms of 'turn off wan' that just means turning off the 'wide area network' or basically turning off the routers internet capabilities. It's likely not necessary, but a good measure if you want to use it for local devices only.

I don't believe you could use a phone or tablet to provide internet to the rest of the devices on the network. You'd likely need something more like this to distribute a 4g connection to several devices. There is a lot more to it in terms of network carrier issues, device compatibility, etc. but it would certainly be possible if you wanted to go that route.

To simplify for your original question, it really wouldn't be necessary to add 4G access for this to work, but it would be an option if you wanted to add internet access to the setup later on. I usually start with the basics but plan for the inevitable additions later.

I use ddwrt interchangeable with openwrt. https://openwrt.org You are correct though that none of those look like they will work with that. What I've actually looked into though is one of these https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-MT300N-V2-Repeater-Performance-Compatible/dp/B073TSK26W

$20, and powered by 5v (USB if needed) and I can take it with me. Reviews look good. For a single device or on the go, it would be great. I have a lot of wired devices though, so if this came after my router, I'd have to have another network switch after it, and I might as well just use a different router. If you want to switch in for one hard wired device, plus a phone or a couple of wireless it would be fine. Not the high end hardware, but to lock in OpenVPN at the router, it seems perfect.

So then that circles me back to something like an Asus router. https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-N300-Technology-streaming-performing-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO

N12 has my 4 ports I'd need for hardwired devices, WLAN stuff is a little on the low end though. But probably better than that $20 mobile box while still being under $30.

Asus next bump up takes it all the way to $50 https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Super-Fast-Gigabit-MU-MIMO-RT-ACRH13/dp/B01LXYT7XB

But, now hard wired is gigabit ports and dual band ac wireless. It's not a high end router, but it has openwrt support and would meet my needs. If you're doing tons of home media streaming, downloads, and gaming, you would just have to invest in something a lot more expensive. For most of us though, that would work great and is probably what I'll get once I replace my router.

Cheap wireless router + outlet timer = stupid easy access control (assuming the room you keep them in is secure).

My modem of choice: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/

Pretty much any $30 wireless router will work, just get one from a reputable brand. The $130 Asus router is one of the best routers, but overkill for a lot of people. Consider http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO/

>

>Thank you so much! I hope you don't mind me asking a bunch of dumb questions but these are the last ones I promise!

>

• When you said:
  
  >>This is how the linked extender should work
  
  >You mean the extender I linked right? The photos I put on the original post?
  
  Upon closer inspection, i was wrong about the one you linked, and it is actually the first type of extender i described. They do work, but if there is already a lot of traffic in the air, this type will make things worse (really, adding wireless signals can never make congestion better).
  
  This would be the second type, and putting one of these into Access Point mode is what I would recommend.
  
  > I calculated the length of the ethernet cable I need to get it from the router to the room. And it's at about 50 feet, does that cross the limit of ethernet cable length you were telling me about?
  
  The limit for 100mbps is 100 meters, so 50 feet is well within range.
  
  >
  
• Will having an ethernet cable this long diminish my Internet speeds at all?
  
  Connecting the Wireless Access Point with a cable instead of wirelessly will actually improve the speed of communication between the Access Point and your router.
  
  >are there different kinds of ethernet cable? What is the best one to use? Or is there just a standard ethernet cable?
  
  There are several standards for cables. Cat5e is the most common, and it can reliably support speeds much much faster than the speeds your devices function at.
  
  >
  
• last question I promise: I don't know what this wire is called but the big end comes out of a wall socket and the small end goes into the router.This is the wire that I assume gives Internet to the router from the ISP. What is it called? Should I buy a better quality one? Is there a better quality of this wire? What should I ask for? The one I have is around 10 years old, and it's about 40 feet long
  
  I've actually never seen the white connector on that cable before, and I'm sorry that I have no idea what that cable is called. If the cable doesn't need to be that long, I would definitely ask for a replacement.
  
  

Is it possible to convince the company to send like $50 on a decent wireless access point and then just wire that up to the Ethernet. You would benefit not only self but all that have share said basement.

I found one I link below for pretty cheap if u have to go out of pocket. Not bleeding but it will get the job done.

ASUS 3-In-1 Wireless Router (RT-N12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DWFPDNO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Ekz8wb1MKENP2

This one?

If so, no, that's not "high powered," that's about 6 generations too old.

You need something like this, with actual oomph and multi-band broadcasting

I don't have TWC, but my sister does. She was provided a basic Cisco 2100 modem for her install and chose not to rent a router from them. I bought her an ASUS RT-N12 D1 ($40) she uses to stream Netflix to her Roku 3 and laptop sometimes, and browse the web on her phone. She hasn't complained about it.

If you want something with a bit more power if you have multiple people streaming, there is the ASUS RT-N16 ($80), which is what I use with a local FiOS service. I haven't had any trouble with it, either.

If you can get a basic modem from TWC (I don't know if they charge for one), that should give you the freedom to use any router you like.

here is a 30 dollar asus router that will get the job done.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO

as for verizon. you wont likely get anything above 25 Mbps from them. They can be pretty quick though for being mobile, but they usually also throttle after a certain usage limit even though you have unlimited service.

If you can, always use cat6 cable. Just pull it outside through a pvc pipe or something to protect it. Then plug in a switch (ex http://amzn.com/B0000BVYT3) and plug in your devices into that + an access point for wireless. (http://amzn.com/B00DWFPDNO or http://amzn.com/B004XXMUCQ)

I use powerline for my desktop. These:

http://www.tp-link.com/lk/products/details/?model=TL-PA6010KIT

Depends on the wiring inside your house no no way to tell your throughput until you try it. Easy to set up, plugin both in the same room first, hit the encryption button and wait for them to pair. Then place them where you want. Do not plug into a power strip.

I get better thoughput than 802.11N wireless. Have not done any LAN tests but the utility says 300mpbs. I can stream video via Universal Media Server/DLNA to a PS3, that was impossible over wireless.

Price history

Yeah man you did screw up :P. You wasted a lot of money for the Nighthawk for almost nothing so far :D. You should make the Nighthawk your main router. Setting your Pace 5268AC to Bridge mode will allow the Nighthawk do all the routing. See the guide here

https://forums.att.com/t5/AT-T-Internet-Equipment/I-have-a-Pace-5268AC-Router-how-to-put-it-in-Bridge-Mode/m-p/4331640#M344

https://wiki.sonic.net/wiki/Pace_5268AC#Bridged_mode

Then, go ahead and buy a good AP to spread the load on different channels. Either one of these is fine: RT-N12 or RT-AC68U

You might be interested in some tips I wrote for optimizing wifi network for beer$ here

HTH

Edit: add few more links

Sorry its a SURFboard SGB 6580. the ASUS is this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DWFPDNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alright, I will, thanks. Does this even cheaper one work as well? https://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00DWFPDNO?th=1

Ok, maybe I'm being stupid and not understanding the technology but if I bought https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 could I put this in repeater mode and then just plug in an ethernet cable to my PC. I know it's 2018 but this is the first time I have ever had to use wifi for anything but my phone.

that will use up your one port.

so you would then want a network switch as well.

you could also buy this and put it in access point mode.

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO/

I love my Asus RT-AC66U, but that was a bit overkill for my mother-in-law so I figured it was a perfect opportunity to try the RT-N12

I gotta say, this little thing kicks some major ass. On Christmas and New Years we were streaming movies to their 2 smart TVs from our cell phones and it never skipped a beat. 1 TV is wired, the other TV and our phones (obviously) were WiFi. On top of that we had 3 more phones, 3 tablets and a chromebook on the Wifi. All were being uses simultaneously. I switched them to VoIP a couple weeks ago and that's been working great too.

Could be because your router is too old. I had a G standard router that had a connection up to 54mbps and would always get 5mbps undocked and could only play online in handheld mode. As soon as I bought this N standard router, the wifi instantly improved to 20mbps and now I'm able to play the Switch docked and online in Mario Kart with no disconnections.

Does that ASUS router do what this does but better?

There are $30 routers new and with a warranty: TP-Link, Asus, Meco, Tenda, etc.

+ $25 for a 200Mbps powerline adapter to connect PC and router.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1499116140&sr=1-6&keywords=asus+router

I used this one for a while, plenty of growing room if you increase speeds too.

This is probably closer to what I'd like to spend right now on access points: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1498754596&sr=1-9&keywords=access+point

It's not AC of course, but for watching youtube and netflix on my 15Mbit time warner connection I don't think they'll be the weakest link.

edit: In light of being downvoted, I didn't mean to criticize your recommendation, they seem like high quality and popular products. I just feel it might be overkill for what I need unless somebody has a specific reason I should definitely steer clear of something like the asus access points.

Wow, the power Ethernet adapters sound appealing. Didn't know that made those. Can I get some links to some good ones.

Also for the wifi access points I found this one. We have 400Mbs down. But in the back bedrooms we only will be using phones and tablets.

ASUS Wireless-N300 (Up to 300Mbps) Router with 2T2R MIMO Technology ideally for streaming 4K HD Video, placing VoIP calls, and performing other essential internet tasks (RT-N12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DWFPDNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9rn6Bb24S4PD8


So you don’t think this will do the trick ?

Small update: Ordered a Motorola SB6141 modem, to replace the standard Comcast All-in-One. Was leaning at saving $10-20 but figured with the VoIP and potentially cranking up our bandwidth in the future, it was worth the extra cash.


My only issue now is resolving the WiFi/networking aspect, since we have lots of traffic (VoIP and file sharing) I'm not sure if going with a cheaper WiFi router is a good option, I was looking at the ASUS RT-N12 to save some cash. Thoughts?

I've had one of these with time Warner for a year without any hiccups: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-340Mbps-XFINITY-Cablevision-CM400-1AZNAS/dp/B0111MRLES. I would hook up one of these as a router as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DWFPDNO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486478904&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=asus+n300&dpPl=1&dpID=31vLTXPU-2L. If you're OK with switching between the devices using a single wire then disregard the router entirely, but you'll be limited to wired devices only.

Dude! Just get one of these. They're $40 and you can run Tomato on it. Leave the crappy Comcast router as your router (wrapped in tinfoil if you like) and use this as your WAP. Works great.

> WNR3500L

Looking at the reviews, this seems to break a lot. I am considering the next level down from the ones in the OP from ASUS:

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Extremely, extremely poor suggestion for a multitude of reasons.

WRT54Gs use old technology and only support 802.11g. They won't have the range of something newer or better. The Wart hasn't been widely manufactured in quite awhile so they are aging and the caps on some of them are going. You can find a new router like an RT-N12 that is superior in every way to a WRT54G and can run Tomato Shibby for $40 USD.

Edit: As far as suggestions for something a little more heavy duty and closer to $100, look at the RT-N56.

thanks for your reply..

what does your 20Mbit refer to? download speed or...?

So further range, and faster so basically N is superior to G..got it!

Based on my conditions, 1700sq ft house, majority of use is browsing and mobile devices, ps3 use here and there and VPN connection 2 days a month for work from home...

What router would you recommend?


I was lookin at the Asus RT-N12


Cheap and seems well received and great reviews..but would appreciate your suggestions?



oNe

What model of the lte router do you have?

And a small router is only $30 dollars on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO

Just installed yesterday! Had a rebate from Asus where it came down to $29.99.

I trust Asus (especially with their routers and mobo's from prior experience), and I know that I only used the router for 1 day, but it worked right out of the box, easiest install and setup, better range than their RT-n12 (Which I had for 10 months and is crazy that it's only $27 dollars now).

If anybody has any specific questions or want me to try anything with it when I get home, pm.