Reddit mentions of Best Professional Siberian Kolinsky Sable Detail Paint Brush, Value Set of 10, Miniature Brushes Will Keep a Fine Point and Spring, for Watercolor, Oil, Acrylic, Nail Art & Models

He is using all of the GW brand brushes, avaliable on their online store and at your LGS.

I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F2I29LM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Highly recommend, the "kolinsky" keyword is important. It is a natural hair from a weasel, rather than a synthetic filament. Don't use natural hair brushes with metalics though, the metal chips scratch the hair so it won't stay as pristine as long.

Cheers!

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

I bought a set of 10 Kolinsky Sable brushes off of Amazon, which came with sizes from 5/0 to 8. I've done all of my painting so far with just the 1 & 2 and haven't even touched the others yet. The points have held well, no hooking and only the occasional stray hair.

​

As someone else with shaky hands, I find proper bracing of my hands helps a lot (as does my gut). Elbows in, forearms braced on my sides/ribs. Left hand holds model holder, right hand first three fingers (thumb, index, middle) hold the brush, the other two touch my left hand to help steady my hands relative to one another.

So... There are only two of these left, partially because I already shared it to our local group.

Set of 8 sables slashed down to $30. I ordered a set myself and they are very nice. Not like Winsor Newton Series 7 nice, but very nice.

Best Professional Siberian Kolinsky Sable Detail Paint Brush, Value Set of 10, High Quality Miniature Brushes Will Keep a Fine Point and Spring, For Watercolor, Oil, Acrylic, Nail Art & Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F2I29LM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ea3yybABVZ4E0

Has anyone tried this set? The price seems too low to be legit kolinsky sable brushes.