#4 in Jack stands
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Reddit mentions of BIG RED T43202 Torin Steel Jack Stands: 3 Ton (6,000 lb) Capacity, Red, 1 Pair
Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 7
We found 7 Reddit mentions of BIG RED T43202 Torin Steel Jack Stands: 3 Ton (6,000 lb) Capacity, Red, 1 Pair. Here are the top ones.
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Lightweight jack stands are used to support your vehicle after lifting with a jack; Wide pyramid foot base provides added strength and stable supportConstructed of high-grade forged steel with a welded frame design for durability, it handles a wide range of vehicles including small cars, SUVs, and light duty trucksAdjustable height ranges from 11-1/4" to 16-3/4" with a 3 ton (6,000 lb) load capacityMulti-position ratchet bar has a sawtooth design, allowing for quick height adjustments that lock into placeFeatures a large saddle surface area for better contact with the load being supported; Tested for reliability and safety to meet ASME standards
Specs:
| Color | Red & Black |
| Height | 8 Inches |
| Length | 15 Inches |
| Number of items | 2 |
| Release date | August 2017 |
| Size | 3 Ton |
| Weight | 7.7 Pounds |
| Width | 9 Inches |
Here…
$18 for a pair of 3 ton stands shouldn't break the bank.
Put this at the other end:
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Steel-Jack-Stands/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520369095&sr=8-1&keywords=jackstand
Should be sturdy enough...
I got these a while back.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bcStybKPMP9EB. They feel really solid. More than enough for my 2 ton Acura specially when I'm only lifting up one side. But never hurts to be cautious i suppose.
Additional Notes:
I hope this is the right subreddit. Putting this first because it is the important part. I am looking for a sort of project car but one for someone that has no mechanic experience. I have an engineering degree, but have never worked with automotives. My current car is good enough to last at least til december so I am looking for a car that I can work on until then and eventually have it become my daily car. I want this to be a learning experience so by the end of it all I will be somewhat efficent at basic mechanic work as well as tuning, performance upgrades, etc. I have never owned a manual car but desire this so that I learn how to drive stick as well as they seem to have the most viability when talking about upgrades and working on them. I plan on using 3k USD on the inital purchase but if I find something for less then the remainder of the 3k will go straight back into the car being purchased. I also plan on spending between 300-600 USD a month on parts to gradually upgrade performance and eventually apperance. The idea is putting roughly 6-7k into a car and make it a learning experience instead of just purchasing something I wont want to work on. I also have a mechanic that can look at the car during the initial purchase but any links that will help with identifying problems especially for specific cars will be appreciated.
Can you do Minor/major work on your own vehicle:
I just purchased a the following as starter mechanics tools
And also a Ball Pein Hammer and Rubber Mallet
If you have any recommendations other than what I purchased, I can still return any of these items and purchase others. Any other items I might need let me know. I plan on getting more tools as I need them.
Location: USA, Texas, Rio Grande Valley Area
Price range: Max 3000 USD for inital purchase
New or used: Used
Must haves: Easy to work on; Cost-Performance Efficent aftermarket parts; Ability to Upgrade
Intended use: Project car for a couple months; Eventually Daily Use
Vehicles you've already considered:
I am open to suggestions but am more fond of light cars with better mpg
Is this your 1st vehicle: No, currently have a 99 Toyota Corolla LE with 287k miles purchased at 170k and I put on the rest. I just had regular oil changes and minor things fized like sparkplugs. It had problem with the starter 6 months ago but banging on it made it work with no problems since then. No aftermarket parts and only problems currently is the evap cannister that I havent fixed and paint restoration as the clearcoat is gone aa I was ignorant on washing and waxing regularly as I live in a hot climate. It also has some rust on the roof and around the doors starting the develope. The corolla is okay, but being an automatic I assume there isnt much performance upgrades available. I also have the ability to purchase a 2005 Ford Escape XLT that works fine and just had a new cpu, tires and air compressor installed and has no current problems besides being Ford red in color ha
Any help, opinions are greatly appreciated. If you would like to mentor me during this process as well, it would be cool to have someone in which I could ask question and get definite answers as no one in my immediate family or friends are car buffs.
Here you go
Your wheel is probably not thick enough, these are worth the price.
[Edit] Just saw chip812's post. As he mentioned, you can skip the jack and stands and just get some ramps if you prefer. I have never used them though. Also, depending on how low your vehicle rides, you might not even need any lifting whatsoever to reach the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.
You will need a a jack stand(they come in pairs), such as these.
The emergency jack that came with your van for flat-tire repair will do for the lifting, but you should probably buy a regular floor jack, such as: this. Consult your van's manual to find out where the jack points are.
You can buy a catch-pan from your local auto-parts store. There are open-top ones, and then there are ones that seal with a lid, so that you can store the spent oil for a while before disposing of it. Up to you in which you prefer.
The auto-parts store will have a huge catalog next to the oil/air filters, which will tell you the type of filter from each manufacturer that fits your van. Not much difference between them, so go with what you're comfortable spending.
As for conventional vs. synthetic, I'm not terribly well-versed on the benefits. I've read that synthetic oil lasts longer before breaking down, compared to conventional oil. I know many sports cars require synthetic oil. If your van is a general commuter vehicle, then maybe save a few pennies and go conventional. Again, largely up to you. Brand doesn't matter terribly, as they're all pretty much safe/good for your particular vehicle.
Also note, use the containers that the new oil came in to store the old oil. The auto-parts store will have a recycling container in the back where they will let you dump it.
I took the rubber pads off my footpegs and then I flipped my footpegs upside down and put a Jack Stand underneath each one, the bike will balance back and forth I propped up each side with some random stuff laying around (i used a bucket and a spray paint can lol)
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It's def jerry rigged together, but a quick and cheap fix, also it's extremely sturdy.