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Reddit mentions of Blue Magic 400 7Oz Mtl Polish Cream

Sentiment score: 15
Reddit mentions: 24

We found 24 Reddit mentions of Blue Magic 400 7Oz Mtl Polish Cream. Here are the top ones.

Blue Magic 400 7Oz Mtl Polish Cream
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
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    Features:
  • Outshine the Rest
  • Non-abrasive
  • For all metal surfaces, brass, copper, sterling silver, aluminum, stainless steel and gold
  • Removes tarnish and oxidation
  • Provides lasting protective coating
  • Can be used with buffers and polishers
Specs:
ColorBlue
Height0.5118110231 Inches
Length2.9921259812 Inches
Number of items1
Size7 Ounce
Weight0.440924524 Pounds
Width0.5118110231 Inches

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Found 24 comments on Blue Magic 400 7Oz Mtl Polish Cream:

u/LagunaGTO · 11 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Overview


Time to finally do my car during the weekend of July 30th. This car had not been detailed since July 2014 and has had a lot more miles added on it. Sunday, 7/16/17, this car turned 5 years old and is now at 53k miles.

This car is garage kept at home for most of the time. Parked in an open parking lot during work hours. Sometimes street parked. It experiences full Chicago winters though and all elements. Sees all driving modes from stop-and-go traffic to 130mph+ highway cruises and local streets.

The goal was to get everything I wanted done on a Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Friday it decided to rain several times during the wash, but that was all good. I still kept washing in the rain and used the rain as some of my rinses. I had to get out of dodge by 4pm Sunday so I could avoid the country bugs on my drive back home to the city.

I left the following on the table to get done before winter comes:

  • Windshield restoration (full polishing and treatment application)
  • Headlight and Tail Light Restoration (just need to be polished and then have coating applied)

    ---

    Work Done


    The goal was to get it done so now I don't have to worry about it again for another 2-3 years. I wanted to get the paint corrected to an acceptable level and then put a good amount of protection on it to survive at least 2 winters and 2 summers.

    As the title states, I tried to accomplish a lot here.

  • Wash, Clay, & Protectant
  • Paint Correction
  • Paint Coating (2 layers)
  • Tip Restoration
  • The Exceptional Interior
  • Paint Chip Repair
  • Trim Restoration

    Services described here

    The entire detail is outlined in the album, but I will share the gist of it here so I can link products.

    The exterior was properly washed with our 20-stage decontamination and wash process. Here is the fire hose nozzle I use tied up with a quick shut-off valve. TRIX was awesome as always. It turned a good amount of purple all over and made the claybarring step go smoothly. The entire car was 1-step corrected with the PC and a Blue Wool Pad/orange 4" foam pad/hand orange pad and Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound 400 (formerly FG400).

    The car was around a 85% for paint quality. I'd say this 1-step easily got it to ~93%. It removed the majority of glaringly obvious defects and it would only take a detailer's mindset now to see that final 7% of defects.

    The exterior was completely wiped clean with CarPro Eraser. The car was then coated entirely with CarPro CQuartz (2 layers) and then topped with CarPro Reload.

    The interior was vacuumed and then was completely cleaned with McKee's 37 Total Interior Cleaner. This product is my go-to for interiors. It works flawlessly and it has a great smell that does linger and just smells naturally clean. I use these types of interior clothes for working with that product. This brush was also utilized to help really get around the leather pores and locations like air vents and the steering wheel.

    All interior hard surfaces were treated with Lexol Premium Protectant. Glass was all cleaned with glass MF towels and Stoner's Invisibile Glass.

    I cleaned the engine. Finally. The engine was completely cleaned using Chemical Guy's All Clean+ and just general microfiber clothes from a place like AutoZone. The engine was then dressed with Adam's In & Out Spray to enhance the appearance of all plastic/rubber parts.

    Door jambs were cleaned up with an MF and P21S Total Auto Wash.

    Paint chips were fixed up with the Dr. Colorchip kit. Felt good to finally clean that rust chip on the hood and fix the trunk damage up some more.

    The honeycomb grills were cleaned up with a foam application, MF towel, and Klasse All-in-One. Topped with Adam's In&Out Spray.

    The exhaust tips were cleaned up using 0000 Steel Wool and Blue Magic Metal Polish and Adam's Metal Polish #1. I used a metal polishing microfiber towel to aid in this process.

    The trim was cleaned with the CG All Clean+ and then dressed with Chemical Guys Natural Matte Shine Dressing.

    The tires were dressed with AMMO MUD and the wheel wells shined up with Adam's Undercarriage Spray. Wheels were cleaned up with a very soft microfiber and P21S Wheel Cleaner.

    ---

    Response


    I loved it. It feels so good to drive it again like this. Just want to touch up a few more things and I'll be fully satisfied. I absolutely am so much happier now that my engine is clean again.


    ---

    Reflection and Lessons Learned


    Not much here outside of just taking care of the car more. I neglected that engine bay for too long but thankfully it was mostly dust. The exhaust tips should have been taken care of more. At least every spring/fall. I will continue to take care of them now 2x a year so they can maintain where they are at and not get worse.

    Preventative maintenance very much applies to detailing as much as it applies to anything mechanical.

    ---

    Total Time: 17 hours on exterior, 3 hours on interior

    Total Cost: Obviously free for me, but to give an idea of what I would have charged for this...it would have been $1,933.98. The 2 layers of coating and Reload would have been $900 alone. The rest of my prices you can see on my site.

    www.chicagosdad.com

    www.facebook.com/chicagosdad

    Former Chicago's DAD /r/AutoDetailing Detail Write-Ups

u/nJoyy · 6 pointsr/Audi

Get this stuff. It's FANTASTIC!! Best results are when you get a good amount of rags tho. Apply some of that scrub, clean rag, clean off. Repeat until it's to your liking.
Here's how mine came out, not a drastic difference because I don't let it build too much, but it works wonders!

u/Jermenizzle · 5 pointsr/airsoft

Not OP, but I use this for polishing.

u/ehferking · 5 pointsr/howto

If it's metal of some sort, you can produce a mirror finish by following these steps.

u/glennac63 · 3 pointsr/FidgetSpinners

Atrium Anniversary! 🥳

In honor of today’s Drop of the Abacus I decided to polish up my Copper Atrium and carry it today at work. I can’t believe it’s been two years since the original Atriums dropped. Preorders started 10/22/17.

After receiving it I ordered tritium vials in Green and Purple and added them with UV resin. Have been real happy with how they turned out and a delightful display in the night.

I have been letting my Copper pieces patina. But about once a year I have been repolishing them with Blue Magic and then recently started applying Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. I have been super impressed with this wax and how long Copper and Brass/Bronze items remain shiny. Some are free from patina even when they come back around in my rotation a month later.

Blue Magic 400 7 Ounce 7OZ MTL Polish Cream
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5h2PDbNMVKHCA

Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PosSl7D59dCRQ

u/heathmc · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Your method is good, and that polish is fine. I use BlueMagic metal polish (http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I) and love it but the Mothers stuff will work fine too.

u/Solotov__ · 2 pointsr/Watches

I used this product from amazon (honestly i just picked one semi randomly when I couldn't find the same brand I was told to use), It worked just fine. As for the dremel bit, I used the white fuzzy round thing you probably get in every dremel kit you've ever seen.

u/short_lurker · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

I am not sure how the side view mirror is actually mounted on this model but I can give a general idea.

On the inside of the door there is a plastic triangle trim right on the opposite side of where the mirror is and usually it pops off by pulling on it. This will give you access to some screws that hold the whole assembly to the door.

From there you will have to work your magic to figure out how to get it secured nice and tight as I don't know how bad it is.


The bumper is usually held in with screws or some clips or slid into something. Once again I don't know exactly how it is on this model, hopefully some one can tell you how to fix it correctly for this model. But for now you can go and inspect around to maybe figure out how it should be mounted.

The side trim on your TDI should be held on with tabs build into the side trim, inserted into the holes on the door and locked in some way. Either the tabs have broken off so one way would use some double sided tape made for side moldings/body work.

For the headlights I use Blue Magic Polishing Cream that a friend left at my previous house years ago. It works well and only removes surface oxidation. If it's there deep this polish won't be enough and very fine grit sandpaper is what you will need to use. I have to warn that this polish has ammonia in it so work in a well ventilated area. You will need to follow up with a sealant or it will turn yellow again in a month or two.

u/dvorak13 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

some tricks i know for cleaning up rust are: Fold a small piece of aluminum foil up and flatten it as smooth as possible. (a rolling pin or pen help) then dip it in water and rub over the rust lightly, keeping it wet. Next a little bit of 0000 steel wool. then finish with a good polish like blue magic or wizards metal polish.

u/goldragon · 2 pointsr/wicked_edge

I second commiecat's suggestion of the metal polish and dental floss. I've used it on numerous razors however I would caution that some razors can get loose at the pivot pin, especially older razors that don't have washers on the outside of the scales and just have the pins peened over. If this happens you can use a (4oz preferably or an 8oz if that's all you have) ball peen hammer to very lightly tap the pin and try to peen it some more and tighten it up. Also, I've tried a few metal polishes and I prefer Blue Magic to Maas or Flitz. It really works on getting tarnish off but does have a powerful stench so use in a well ventilated area.

To prevent rust from occurring again, you should try to get some oil into the hinge and even wipe down the blade if you have multiple razors and won't be using one for a while. Mineral oil is great for this and you can find it in the pharmacy for cheap, it's sold as a laxative, lol. Moisten a q-tip and try to work it around the hinge area. If you want something fancy, look for a Tuf-Glide pen. I found them for sale at an antique store while I was hunting for razors but I would assume they are sold at hardware stores and such.

u/Toxicscrew · 2 pointsr/metalworking

Blue Magic Metal Polish
or
motorcycle shops carry chrome polish wadding-its long strips of cloth with the polish in it. It's for spoked wheels, you wrap it around the tube and pull back and forth on it. I used it on a bike I bought with rusty wheels and it worked great.

Decided to not be lazy, here's the link:

Luster Lace

u/Chibear85 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I noticed the exhaust tips could use some polish. I highly recommend this [metal polish](Blue Magic 400 7Oz Mtl Polish Cream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1AZ5AbHD4C68K). Great job overall!!!

u/brandonsmash · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Recently I cleaned up the exhaust headers on my KZ1300 build before installing them.

One before-and-after

The whole set of 6

It took several hours -- probably about 10 total -- and a lot of elbow grease.

I started with Brasso to remove the rust, rubbing it along with a #1 steel wool pad (#3 if it was really nasty). Then I cleaned that off and repeated as necessary.

Once I had a good foundation I switched to a milder metal polish (here), rubbing that on with a Scotts towel and letting it sit. I then gave it some elbow grease with a #00 pad until it turned black, wiped it off, applied more, and rubbed it with a #0000 pad and then wiped that off.

The results were quite good, but it definitely took a bit of time. I spent a lot of time listening to Hardcore History while working at my bench!

u/EraserGirl · 2 pointsr/fixit

Aluminum Cleaners are popular in automotive and marine aisle, Blue Magic works nicely

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Ounce-Polish/dp/B000BO8Z9I

This will help with the oxidization. I like to use it with a wool buffing head on my drill. Saves elbow grease. I can get a nice finish this way.

if you want a more highly polished finish, get some wet dry metal sandpaper above 800. I use it in steps from 800 to 2300 to get a mirror finish on vintage pots and pans.

[presently working on a book on restoring vintage kitchenware]

u/DasSven · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I use Blue Magic 400 and #0000 Steel Wool. Does a great job making those tips look new. It's also very cheap! Apply the steel wool with light to moderate pressure. Wipe it down with a microfiber towel that you don't care about being stained and you're all set.

http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I

u/TheTreeMan · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I just got some of this stuff off of Amazon. How am I supposed to go about using it?

Do I try to get my pipes as clean as possible with soap/water, and then use this as a finish? What parts of my bike can I use this on? What parts am I not allowed to use it on?

Do you have any hints or tips about how to use it in the best possible way?

Thanks!

u/Nemo_Griff · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I know a polish like that serves no practical use but they sure do look purdy!

Here is the polish & the felt wheels, I also had to pick up the chuck just to make is easy.

u/GlocksAreForPlebs · 1 pointr/gundeals

Super simple. Just get a microfiber cloth or old rag or whatever, some non-abrasive metal polish like Flitz or, I like to use this stuff
Apply polish to cloth and just scrub until it is all shiny and sexy. Alternatively, you can use a dremel with a buffing attachment, but I really enjoy polishing by hand.

That's all there is to it, other than taking a toothpick and getting into the grip serrations to scrape out the years of accumilated Isreali soldier finger crud.

u/bongklute · 1 pointr/vintageaudio

i've had good results with a non-abrasive metal polish like this one

u/averno2000 · 1 pointr/OldSchoolTools

They are called finger pump oil cans. Thanks for making me look that up!

First thing I did was scrub it down with some 000 steel wool and Goo Gone. I've never honestly seen anyone else use this combination but it works amazing on aluminum, steel, plated metals and tons of other stuff.

After I got all of the grim off I wiped it down with some all purpose cleaner.

Next I put a buffing ball on my drill and used some Mothers Aluminum polish. After a few pases with the mothers I cleaned off the ball, and finished out with some Blue Magic 400. The Mothers polish has a small amount of abrasive which helped smooth out what the steel wool did and the Blue Magic 400 has no abrasive and leaves a longer lasting protective coat then the Mothers. I have found you can make just about anything look new with this quick and easy method. Check out how nice it cleaned up the shocks on my bike Album.

u/gearhead87 · 1 pointr/cars

Metal polish also works.