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Reddit mentions of CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B Plus) with 2.5A Power Supply (UL Listed)

Sentiment score: 13
Reddit mentions: 24

We found 24 Reddit mentions of CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B Plus) with 2.5A Power Supply (UL Listed). Here are the top ones.

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B Plus) with 2.5A Power Supply (UL Listed)
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    Features:
  • Includes Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B Plus) with 1.4 GHz 64-bit Quad-Core Processor, 1 GB RAM
  • CanaKit 2.5A USB Power Supply with Micro USB Cable and Noise Filter - Specially designed for the Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (UL Listed)
  • Dual Band 2.4GHz and 5GHz IEEE 802.11.b/g/n/ac Wireless LAN, Enhanced Ethernet Performance
  • Set of 2 Aluminum Heat Sinks
  • CanaKit Quick-Start Guide
Specs:
Number of items1
Release dateMay 2022
Weight0.4875 Pounds

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Found 24 comments on CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B Plus) with 2.5A Power Supply (UL Listed):

u/ImaManCheetah · 70 pointsr/Dodgers

I didn’t design or write the code for this, just followed the instructions for the Raspberry Pi project created by u/RushShirtKid and explained in this post on r/baseball. Direct link to the instructions here (but wouldn't hurt to at least glance through the r/baseball post for some good info). Would highly recommend if you want to tackle a small, straightforward project!

Edit: some additional info- it doesn't have to just show one game, you can have it cycle through all the games, or cycle through other games only during inning breaks, or customize it a bunch of other ways!

Edit 2:
You'll see in the instructions there are multiple options as far as parts, so it's up to you which direction you want to go. But if you're curious, these are all the parts I used:

Raspberry Pi 3 B+ w/Power Supply

5V Power Supply for the LED Matrix

64x32 RGB LED Matrix, 5mm pitch (see the project instructions for other size options)

Matrix Bonnet (connects LED matrix to the Pi)

You'll also need some kind of display (tv, monitor, etc) that you can connect to the Pi via HDMI for the setup. And a mouse/keyboard that you can connect to the Pi via usb.

u/Maindric · 17 pointsr/RetroPie

Several years ago I got a Raspberry Pi model A and it lagged in most SNES games. Needless to say, I was disappointed. Well, I just finished this SNES RetroPie build and I am happy. Here is the parts list I used:

u/NotAnNSASpySatellite · 16 pointsr/pihole

You can get a whole kit for $50 from Amazon via the Canakit with a raspberry pi3 B+ , I am sure you can get it cheaper somewhere like microcenter.

YouTube will be difficult to block though so please be aware of that, and Pi-Hole isn't a one stop fix all for things, but can block a good chunk of stuff with the right lists.

u/I2ed3ye · 6 pointsr/assholedesign

Kind of depends on what you're willing to spend and future projects.

I'd recommend https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Power-Supply-Listed/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ to give you something extra to play around with for the most bang for your buck. It's basically what I use as my PiHole and NAS. You could get by with a Raspberry Pi Zero W, but it's pretty barebones and you'd need adapters to plug anything into it. It's kind of a pain in the butt to be honest unless you're wanting a very small footprint.

You could also go with the https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-4GB-Starter-MAX/dp/B07XPHWPRB/ which would open up a lot of doors when it comes to more taxing server and computing applications.

The Vilros kits are a bit cheaper, but I find their power supplies to give inconsistent voltage/amperage.

u/Yatkuu · 6 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Here's what I used:

Buttons/joystick kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGX76HT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e3u4DbNFYM9PT
Video adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVMWPZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B4u4DbC4ARRDN
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u6u4Db97MWE57
Pi 3b case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07349HT26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v5u4Db1FS3T1H
Audio amp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C1Q1FPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.6u4DbW8KHPC5
Adhesive Velcro (to mount the various items): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKQUS4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4.u4DbNJGANFX
1'1/8 Spade bit:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Daredevil-1-1-8-in-x-6-in-Spade-Bit-DSB1015/203274560

General thoughts on the modding process... I had never done something like this, never used a raspberry pi either. I followed ETA's tutorial, browsed this forum for info and everything went smoothly. I encountered only 2 minor difficulties.
The button/joystick kit had 1 joystick wire that was faulty and thus was impossible to tell from looking at it.. After mounting and connecting everything the stick would not register 1 direction. Thinking the stock was at fault I ended up ordering a second kit. It took some tinkering to eventually narrowing it down to the wire! Drilling the 2 extra holes was rather straightforward but I did not think of how the wires would reach the buttons! I ended up drilling 2 small holes in the bottom of the plastic cover - not a super neat job but it's all hidden anyway.
Bottom line, it's relatively simple but I think any DIY project can have unexpected difficulties.. so be prepared.

Tips for anyone who wants to give this a try.. .
Is it easy? I would say yes. The components are plug and play so it's essentially Ikea furniture mounting level. But.. it does require to do things you likely have never done before so take your time and don't rush. The drilling part does require some minimal manual skills. I wouldn't try drilling through the main board... in particular if your equipment is some lightweight stuff. That main board holding the controls is rather thick, and you would risk damaging the artwork if you mess up. Cutting through the Plexi also seems rather challenging.
Cutting through the thin board placed under the controls however is simple.
One advice, if you plan to put back the black plastic cover that protects the underside of the controls, you need to keep that in mind when you decide to position your extra buttons. If you place them too high, you won't have enough clearance for the hidden part of the buttons due to the presence of the plastic cover. So, either position these lower (as I did) or plan not to use the cover.. it might be possible to cut through the black plastic cover but that sounds like a lot of trouble if you ask me..
Side note, I painted the back panel in black because the back of the cab is a little visible in my setup... It looks pretty good.

The cost...
Well, let's be honest, this is not a cheap project. Sure, if you scored a 75$ cab you're off to a good start but to me the look factor was essential. I personally think the Marvel cab is the best looking one currently available in the A1up lineup for a 2 player setup.
So, 250$ for the cab at Walmart. The Pi, the case, video adapter, SD card... Roughly 200$
Total.. 450$

Conclusion...
I absolutely love this thing... But not for the reasons I initially thought. The gaming part ends up being less important for me than the look. I have it setup in my game room (got a pool table and a second cab) and I find myself just turning the cabs on for the mood more than to play with them. Also, the modded cab with its led buttons looks just gorgeous.

That's it, happy modding everyone!

u/sbag0024 · 3 pointsr/ender3

I will give you my top 5.

1.The hard yellow springs $5 and you will have extras. These will help your bed stay level longer. I think I need to check mine once every.. 10 prints or so or every other week, maybe longer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013G5I4US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vkE6Cb8SHNBVG

2.Glass bed. Lowes for $3 cut 2.5mm. Ender 3 bed known to be warped.

3.Pick up a Raspberry pi ~$50 and install octopi/ octoprint.. free, and a mini b to USB cable $5. Now you don't need the to fiddle with micro SD and can manage everything from PC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_olE6Cb8J91Q1J

And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0GI68M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_umE6CbPGSR7T4

4.Raspberry pi cam $25 and longer cable $3 to go with your Raspberry pi octoprint. Now you can monitor prints while "away" .. aka relaxing in your lazy boy watching YouTube vids on how bad season 8 of GOT was. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ER2SKFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_noE6CbXTHCPDS

And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4DAQH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ipE6Cb9RK6QNR


5.Bowden tube $11. Only if you plan on printing hotter then 240c. So petg, abs.. ECT ECT . https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KjE6CbDMX6SGE



Hope this helps.

u/Tothas · 2 pointsr/ender3

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/DrakeFS · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

You do not need fans. This CanaKit is probably the only one I would suggest. The power supply has worked very well for me and it is basically the same price as buying a 3b+ and power supply separately.

The issue I have with most kits, is that they are trying to make as much money as possible on a lot of parts. This means you are going to be getting cheap parts. There are much better cases, like the Flirc Case(I use this one) or the Retroflag cases(if you want that retro console look), both of which are available on Amazon.

You would be better off getting some 8bitdo or iBuffalo controllers. Cheap controllers just do not feel right. While I have never used the CanaKit controllers they do not review well.

Finally, the SD card. Always buy this yourself, from a good brand and from a good vendor. Samsung (what I buy) and Sandisk seems to be the best reviewed and performing SD Cards. Performance is not that big of an metric for the Pi 3b+ though. You will want reliability from your SD card. A cheap card will cause more problems than what they are worth in my experience.

Just know, building a RetroPie without having anything already will cost you ~$100. They are not cheaper or easier than SNES classic. That being said, if you like tinkering, RetroPie's are a hell of a lot more fun.

u/harrynyce · 2 pointsr/homelab

I went 18+ months with my trusty little ER-X paired with a UAP-AC-LR (using the included PoE injector, but you could also arrange it so the PoE injector is powering both the ER-X & the AP (AC-Lite or AC-LR, not a UAP-AC-Pro or the more power hungry devices that are 802af). It's not a terrible idea to use both the included power brick with the ER-X as well as the PoE injector if you wanna go that way, for some redundancy.

Regardless, an ER-X pairs wonderfully with any of the 24V Passive Access Points, I would highly recommend it. Don't get suckered into buying a CloudKey, though -- they're a huge waste of money. Your UniFi Controller can be run on almost anything. And you only really need it running 24/7 if you care about collecting metrics, or if you run certain aspects of the access point (Guest Portal, etc) -- but you can spin up a Controller on anything from an old spare PC, to your own PC, Raspberry Pi, or my personal favorite: the cloud. I'm using Google Cloud Compute always free, micro-instance to host both of my sites and it's performed wonderfully for nearly a year now, but AWS and other places have similar offerings. It's personal preference at that point where you'd prefer to spin up your favorite flavor of Linux. Ubuntu Server is always a great choice, but I've been trying to convert most of my more "critical" services to pure Debian, as it's been absolutely rock-solid stable without the extra fluff that can be packaged with Ubuntu Server. As with most things in life, it has its pros and cons. You literally have to install everything on a minimal Debian install (including basic tools liek sudo and so on), but it's been a wonderful option. I think it took me all of ~twenty minutes to get going, it's SO easy to import your configuration once you have the basic server built and installed UniFi. Also, be sure to check out https://unifi.ubnt.com for a demo of what you'd be looking at/for.

I believe this is the guide I followed when I was first trying to get started: https://metis.fi/en/2018/02/unifi-on-gcp/

TL;DR -- Don't be shy about running a hybrid network with both EdgeMAX and UniFi devices. I stressed over that decision terribly, and in the end it was a happy accident things wound up the way they did. I wouldn't trade my Edgerouter for anything. For a while I even ran an OPNsense (or pfSense makes for a great router, as well, but i prefer the nice GUI built on top with OPNsense) transparent firewall because I thought I wanted more granular control over what was going across my network, but in the end, I've replaced that with a couple instances of Pi-hole and life has been grand. Simply Point your ER-X to the Pi-hole(s) IP address(es) and have those handed out via DHCP to all the clients on your network and voila network wide ad-blocking without having to mess with any extra apps or browser extensions on your PC. It's literally a one-liner install to get up and running. A Raspberry Pi 3 B+ could potentially run BOTH your UniFi Controller, as well as Pi-hole all for around $35 (more if you buy a complete kit). This is a great one to get you started, it has a very reliable power supply: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Power-Supply-Listed/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ -- add your favorite case to that (there's SO many choices) and you're off to the races, but if you have old hardware lying around I'd consider that as an option. Free is good.

Here's my secondary DNS server for my little home/office network, which runs Pi-hole / Unbound / OpenVPN Server: https://i.imgur.com/Wkx5mzt.jpg

u/Shenkoe · 2 pointsr/ender3

I LOVE MY ENDER 3'S. I have one running stock everything (except the bed) and the other is well, an ender 3 in name only now. (I know you mentioned you are in the EU, but I have provided links to my sources for US based distributors)

Printer setup:

Ender 3

MKS (MKS GEN L V1.0)

TMC (2208's)

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend ( MS all metal )

Custom Modified heater block (installed 300°c heater cartridge and 450°c capable thermistor from slice engineering) (heater) & (thermistor)

Bantamfeeder Extruder ( bantam design ) ... will be changing this out soon when I decide what next. Works well just not my cup of tea for convenience purposes.

Bullseye Duct ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439)

3-point bed conversion for leveling made easy (Leveling guide and 3 point leveling adapter). HERE IS A COMPLETED DESIGN OF THESE CHANGES( My bed setup ... < < < this is my stock ender 3)

Borosilicate glass bed w/ PEI (Glass bed & PEI Sheet)

PSU (Mean Well NES-350-24 24V 350 Watt UL Switching Power Supply 120 Volt)

​

OCTOPRINT SERVER

RPI 3b+ (raspberry pi w/ octoprint)

Pi Cam (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2SY756/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

​

So now you see why I say not really an ender 3 anymore, only in name

u/chrono13 · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

Flirc case.


https://flirc.tv/more/raspberry-pi-case


It looks nice, has very tight tolerances for sealing the case, comes with a thermal pad to connect the CPU to the entire aluminum block that is the case. One of the best passive cooling cases out there. Note that passive cooling still does not beat a fan, but it is often good enough.

Combined with the CanaKit which includes the excellent inline power switch.

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Power-Supply-Listed/dp/B07BC6WH7V


Using one for a pihole, and one for a retropie.

u/Davec433 · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

You could use a BrewPi (or build one). You’ll have to connect it to a RaspberrPi. You’ll also have to build a power cord with a couple SSRs but it’ll allow you to control everything individually. It’ll also log any temps you have a temp probe connected to.

u/tm258 · 1 pointr/RetroPie

I'm using a 2.5 amp power adapter from CanaKit. This is the Raspberry Pi/adapter combo that my wife bought me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BC6WH7V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I haven't looked but I imagine you can buy the adapter by itself.

u/alexnader · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I'll probably make this a post of it's own, but for now it will be a comment in my own original thread, as after about a week and a half of research I have built what I consider a decent priced "all-in-one" Pi.

One thing I'd like to point out, is that you could get a lot of these for much cheaper, but only if ordering from china, so it's just a lot slower to receive, but no loss in quality or anything. I wanted to "splurge" a little, and get everything fast, so made US only purchases.



Item | Store
----|-----
3.5 HDMI LCD + Case | eBay
Raspberry Pi 3 B+ & Charger | Amazon
Micro SD Card | Amazon
Mini USB Microphone | Amazon
Pi Cooler | Amazon

u/fireshaper · 1 pointr/news

You can always run it in a virtual machine, or just buy a raspberry pi!

u/skitz0h · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B Plus) with 2.5A Power Supply (UL Listed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Same one i just got

u/Left_ctrl · 1 pointr/Twitch

So, while this device solution gives you the same function as the LiveU you still need some kind of some, mobile NIC, and data plan. If you're going worldwide you should just pick up the unlimited IRL global plan, which is an AT&T plan and would work in St Thomas and around the globe.

Heres a decently priced pi kit Just get a good microsd card to go along with it.

u/daletheboy · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This kit used to be $48, not sure why the price jumped, but all you need is this + a usb webcam. I recommend Logitech. CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Oh, and you’ll need a micro sd. Doesn’t need to be huge. 8gb would be fine.

u/marinom97 · 1 pointr/DIY

Greetings!

I got the two-way mirror from a glass company called Academy Glass.

You can find boards of wood from most hardware stores, such as Home Depot.

The wood glue, stain, varnish caulking, screws, and nails were purchased from my local RONA.

The television was a used television.

The Raspberry Pi, micro-SD card, and Raspberry Pi Case were all purchased off of Amazon.

My dad already had the tools I needed, but you can rent these from some hardware stores if you need them.

u/Waldemar-Firehammer · 1 pointr/GiftIdeas

A raspberry pi might be right up his alley. He can code it to do pretty much anything he can think up if he wants to, with a vibrant community. Don't forget an SD card!

u/hairy_testicles · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Get a Raspberry Pi 3 B, or 3 B+(the B+ just has better wifi, and alittle more overclocked CPU), a 5 volt 2.5+amp power supply, and micro SD card is the minimum to get it all working. I would also invest in a case of some sorts, you should be able to pick a case up for around $5 more.

Here is a 3 B+ kit on Amazon, without case, and here is a 3 B kit on Amazon. You would just need to add a 4+ gig micro SD card to get either working.



You could get away with a Raspberry PI 0, but you would need some adapters for USB, and HDMI, which might save you a few $$, but it can also increase the headache level as some adapters do not play well.

u/Pastoolio91 · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Good to find someone else in my shoes, lol. I was in the exact same position a couple months ago before grabbing a Pi, so I'm not an expert by any means, but I've learned a few things.

As for plug and play kits, I'd avoid the ones with NES/SNES style cases as they have horrible cooling. If you're planning on using it as a RetroPi, you'll definitely need some better cooling. For passive cooling, you'll need something like the FLIRC case, which basically turns the entire case into a giant heatsink (https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=rpi+case&qid=1563297746&s=gateway&sr=8-5) or for active cooling, I'd suggest grabbing a cheap acrylic stack with a small 30mm fan off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rpi+case&ref=nb_sb_noss). Keep in mind that these are Pi 3 B+ cases, and they won't work with the Pi 4 as the USB and ethernet are switched around, plus different HDMI ports.

​

For your first Pi, a kit is nice as it includes heatsinks and a decent power supply. If you want to use RetroPi then having a kit with an SD card that includes NOOBS wont matter, as NOOBS doesn't let you install RetroPi. Also, the cases that come with CanaKit and Abox have terrible cooling if you're running something heavy like RetroPi, so I'd recommend getting these:

Rasbperry Pi 3 B+ Basic Kit: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Power-Supply-Listed/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=raspbery+pi&qid=1563297903&s=gateway&sr=8-8

FLIRC case: https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=rpi+case&qid=1563297746&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Other than that, you'll just need an SD card to flash with RetroPi, maybe a USB stick to transfer ROMs over with, and a controller. 8BitDo make some really solid retro replica controllers so I'd suggest that possibly.

​

As for a gaming PC, you could easily run most ROMS on a low end gaming PC, so if emulation is your main goal then you could easily build a 500-600 PC that would kick ass for ROMS. I mean, my Chromebook can run RetroArch pretty easily, so you don't need a ton of power. It's just that the Pi is a tiny SoC running an ARM chip so it's different than a full fledged x86 PC.

​

The Pi 3 B+ struggles with N64 and PS1 some, so waiting for the Pi 4 to be RetroPi compatible would likely be the cheapest option to get yourself going. I have high hopes for it with regards to the N64 and other systems from that generation.

u/305omething · -2 pointsr/gaming

I don’t understand why these classic consoles are in such high demand when you could spend less for a raspberry pi, SD card, a 3D printed console case AND get thousands of games across multiple systems.


pi:

Case