#101 in Camera accessories
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Reddit mentions of Celestron 93419 T-Ring for 35 mm Canon EOS Camera (Black)
Sentiment score: 5
Reddit mentions: 13
We found 13 Reddit mentions of Celestron 93419 T-Ring for 35 mm Canon EOS Camera (Black). Here are the top ones.
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This Celestron T-Ring attaches to Canon EOS DSLR and SLR camera bodiesSturdy bayonet flange locks in place just like a lens, providing secure contactAttaches to a variety of camera adapters and accessories via standard T-ThreadsThis T-Ring fits EOS model cameras only. It will not work with other Canon camera bodies.
Specs:
| Color | Black |
| Height | 2 Inches |
| Length | 2 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Release date | September 2013 |
| Size | Canon EOS T-Ring |
| Weight | 0.10141264052 Pounds |
| Width | 1 Inches |
New:Orion Sirius + Astrotech AT65EDQ + BYEOS Premium + 2 inch prime focus adapter + T-adapter for your DSLR (example) + Orion mini guide scope + ASI120MM (guide cam) + EQDIR cable
Used: Sub out the Sirius and AT65 for Orion Atlas + 80mm Triplet, keep everything else the same.
All this assumes you have a Windows laptop that can run BYEOS, EQMOD (free), PHD2 (free), etc. If not, skip the guide cam/scope and save up until you have a computer that can run those programs (doesn't have to be a laptop, these days you can get an Intel compute stick for $150.)
You don't need much more than a portable 3" telescope to image the sun itself, and see planets. You will see the rings of saturn and moons and cloud belts of Jupiter, but not a lot of detail.
As far as being able to record stars next to the sun during a solar eclipse, that's hard to say, and could be very dangerous.
When there is a total solar eclipse, you end up seeing the corona around the sun. But this corona can be quite bright and dense, and obscure stars behind it. What's more is, you can't have a solar filter on during this time if you want to record the stars as it will completely block their light. So you have a very short window in which you can safely record images before enough of the sun shines brightly enough that it burns the image sensor on the camera (or your eye, if you're trying to position it).
Moreover, depending on how close the stars have to be to the edge of the sun in order to measure the effects of its mass, you may need high power. High power means you need a tracking mount, and that may be difficult to get for $250.
All that aside, you'll definitely want a DSLR for this because a cheap webcam will likely produce too much noise/grain and will have too low a resolution when trying to image potentially faint stars near the sun. To couple the DLSR to the telescope requires a T-Adapter and a T-Ring for the particular brand of camera you'll be using.
Hello :-)
Great advice so far!
As the others said, a dobsonian will be the best, as you can afford a very large aperture and have a stable mount. Not for imaging, but for planets it still works with some patience.
$300 can get you a 6" dobsonian, or a "2nd"/refurbished XT8. It doesn't get better than this. 8" already shows a lot regarding deep-sky! ...under a dark sky at least.
 
> upgradable
The main mirror (or lens) is the heart of a telescope, and can't be upgraded. Thus a 8" would show you the most in the long run, even if you can't afford as many accessories as with a 5" or 6".
With other eyepieces you can later add a wider field of view or more magnification. Even at $20 you can get some decent ones (e.g. the 6mm 66° for planets).
For DSLR, you need a barlow both to reach focus and get the planets "large enough". A $15-$20 with T-thread can work (a cheap one introduces a lot of chromatic aberration though), and a $10 adapter for your DSLR to the T mount.
A decent barlow set can go in the $100s.
 
...And "turn left at Orion" - The missing manual :-) Do you have binoculars?
Clear skies!
You generally get one of these to adapt from the telescope eyepiece tube to the "T-mount" standard (a dead simple lowest common denominator camera lens mount originally used by Tamron – basically just a threaded ring), plus a T-mount to whatever your camera takes – e.g. Nikon F mount, or Canon EF mount in the OP's case – adapter ring.
So about $15 for the telescope to T adapter and $9 for the T to EF ring.
That's the same scope I have... camera too. I mounted it on a cg5 mount and use http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000237C9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398011436&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40 it's all you should need to connect your camera.
As for pictures... eh, I haven't been very successful with much yet... but it was cold and I'm completely new to the hobby.
That's the scope I started with :)
The easiest way to get involved (IMHO) is to get a DSLR and a T-mount. This will allow you to attach a canon DSLR to the back of your scope. Now you can easily take pictures of the moon, planets, and brighter objects in the sky.
Deep Sky Stacker is a free image pre-processing program that will help you stack all of your images together with their calibration frames to get ready to do the processing to get the detail out of the image.
As for image processing, Pixinsight is what I use, and it's a hefty pricetag, but it's a one-stop-shop. It does everything you need it to do. I've seen others with exceptional results from using photoshop, but I have no training or expertise in it at all. Here is a fantastic book that explains the intricacies of PI.
For long exposure stuff, you'll need a high quality equatorial mount, and for even longer exposure stuff, you might need a guide camera, but you'd be surprised what a well aligned unguided mount can get you, especially for brighter objects (like M42 here) and shorter exposures. Instead of the 3 minute exposures I took here, you can take 45-second exposures and just collect buckets of them and stack them all together.
Basically, yes, but you'll also need a few relatively cheap things to make sure you have power and a way to mount the camera to the scope. And you can definitely go much cheaper (especially on the camera). I just had the camera prior to getting into astrophotography because I do photography as well.
To answer your question, the only other thing I purchased separately that was involved in my setup for this shot was the battery pack that powers the mount, a T-Ring, and a T-Adapter that allows me to mount my camera to the scope.
Power Tank
T-Ring
T-Adapter
Again. You can go much cheaper on the camera and can actually just use a webcam to shoot the video that you'll stack into a still. Registax is free. Autostakkert is free. And there are free photoshop alternatives. You'll also want to use this program called BackyardEOS to shoot the videos at 5x zoom (My computer was acting up for this shot, so I didn't use it this time around) but it's well worth the $30 I think I paid for it. You can get even clearer shots like this one I got a while back. The program allows you to digitally zoom in at 5x using and use only a part of the camera's sensor. Please let me know if you need any other information. I'd be glad to help. Hope this helps some!
For a Cell phone, just hold it up to the eyepiece. For extra stability, you could get an eyepiece adapter. With few exceptions (newer cell phone cameras are getting sophisticated enough for long~ish exposure on bright objects), the only objects you will be able to snap will be planets and the Moon.
For a DSLR, you will need 2 components, a T-Ring which acts as a lens attachment (and you will need to find one for your specific camera brand), and a T-Adapter which will allow the camera to insert into the telescope like an eyepice. Given you are going to an actual observatory, they likely use 2" eyepieces, so a 2" T-adapter will probably be needed.
You should also make sure they are OK with you taking pictures like this. I help run a local public observatory (ie no research, just open nights for the public to look up) and we host monthly photo nights, but setting up the scope for photography requires changing the focus and if you are taking photos that means you'll be tying up any lines behind you for several minutes. On the other hand, if this is a private observatory and you don't have to worry about lines, then great. I would call ahead to make sure either way - maybe they already have the adapters you need
This is everything you need to attack the camera to the back of the scope:
TRing for camera: http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93419-T-Ring-Canon-Camera/dp/B000237C9M?ie=UTF8&keywords=canon%20t%20ring&qid=1463021630&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
T-Adapter (connect T-Ring to scope): http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-T-adapter-Schmidt-Cassegrains-Threads-Cell/dp/B00009X3V8?ie=UTF8&keywords=t%20adapter&qid=1463021693&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3
Only thing I'm unsure about is that you might need an additional adapter to convert the threads on the mak to SCT threads (not sure if it has SCT threads or something different)
USB to laptop with this for the 500D. Camera to telescope with this for the 500D. Good Luck!
So I've been doing astronomy for several years now and decided to try to venture into astrophotography. I bought a Canon T6 Rebel, this T-ring, and this adapter to use with my smallish Celestron refractor (not sure the exact model atm, sorry) and my computerized Celestron mount.
I'm fairly sure I'm missing something obvious here but how do I use an eyepiece with this set-up? They don't seem to fit in the extension tube.
Also, can someone recommend what settings I use on the Canon or recommend some good resources for someone new to DSLR and astrophotography. Right now I'm mainly looking to photograph Jupiter, Saturn, Mars, and the Moon.
Thanks!
> AstroTech AT65EDQ
It has a 2" focuser, so you could get a 2" T-Adapter and a Canon T-ring You could probably get away with a 1.25" T-adapter since your have a crop sensor T3i.
this goes on the camera. Then something like this screws into the first adapter and connects you to the telescope. You need to check whether your scope can take 2" eye pieces or not. If it only take the 1.25" size, then you would need this instead. On a crop sensor it probably doesn't make a huge difference, but you'll get less vignetting with the 2" adapter.