#259 in Sports & outdoors books
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Reddit mentions of Climb Injury-Free: A Proven Injury Prevention and Rehabilitation System
Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 3
We found 3 Reddit mentions of Climb Injury-Free: A Proven Injury Prevention and Rehabilitation System. Here are the top ones.
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Prevent climbing injuries before they happenLearn how to rehabilitate the most common climbing injuriesDiscover the incorrect movement patterns that cause injuryClimb stronger without getting hurt
Specs:
| Weight | 1 Pounds |
They're right, though. "Dedicated" is relative - someone who is already able to climb at least one v3/4 in a session, could be climbing v8 within 2~ years if they have a consistent plan and are doing something to train 3-4 days a week. In reality, you can do SOMETHING 7 days a week if you know how to plan it. There's no reason you can't take 20 minutes and do pushups, crunches and shoulder exercises on your off days for injury prevention maintenance if getting to v8 is important to you.
Even just doing ONE thing can make a big difference. I went from working 5.11b to flashing 5.11d (D!) outside just by adding regular crunches to my week.
Check out the books, The Rock Climbers Training Manual and Climb Injury-Free.
High single digit bouldering and hard 5.12 climbing is much more accessible than people realize. The hardest part is being consistent enough to develop quality technique and body awareness. Though once you get in the mindset of trying different beta, even if you think you've "got it" and going back to easier problems to see if you can figure out even more efficient ways to do them than you've used before.
One thing I recommend as a foundation is getting the Climbing Injury Free book by Dr. Jared Vagy DPT. He is a climber and works with top athletes across the board.
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Most of the book is injury exercises when you're already injured, but the injury prehab exercises he teaches has helped me prevent a lot of injuries. He also shows a Muscle Activiation/Dynamic Warm up that works really well in the book as well. It has helped me to climb better.
I'm a rehab based Chiropractor and treating climbers is a large part of my practice. A few years ago I was looking for something similar as I know there are seminars/certifications for golf, running, lifting etc - but couldn't find anything solid for climbers. My best advice is pick up some climbing injury books and start there. I listed the books I own below in order of my preference. I second u/wristrule's recommendation of make it or break it and checking out Training Beta. They have PTs/Chiros/Trainers/Coaches talk about injuries and prevention. Follow those people and their professional work as they all have blogs, books, videos etc.
As far as research goes, there is actually a decent body of evidence but sample sizes of the studies tend to be small. The best collection of climbing research in one place is probably The Beta Angel Project https://beta-angel.com/research/research-inventory It is sorted into categories which is a nice touch. Also you can pubmed search 'rock climbing' and there are a bunch of studies there.
Here are the books I own and recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/Make-Break-Climbing-Injuries-Dictate/dp/0956428134
https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Injuries-Solved-Lisa-Erikson/dp/0692296646/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1535818900&sr=1-5&keywords=rock+climbing+injuries
https://www.amazon.com/Climb-Injury-Free-Dr-Jared-Vagy/dp/0692831894/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1535818900&sr=1-2&keywords=rock+climbing+injuries
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Theres a few more books out but I haven't checked them out just yet.
Hope this helps you help other climbers!
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