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Reddit mentions of CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower

Sentiment score: 39
Reddit mentions: 102

We found 102 Reddit mentions of CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower. Here are the top ones.

CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
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    Features:
  • 1500VA/900W Intelligent LCD Battery Backup Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) System uses simulated sine wave output to safeguard workstations, networking devices, and home entertainment equipment
  • 12 NEMA 5-15R OUTLETS: Six battery backup & surge protected outlets; Six surge protected outlets; INPUT: NEMA 5-15P right angle, 45 degree offset plug with six foot power cord
  • MULTIFUNCTION LCD PANEL: Displays immediate, detailed information on battery and power conditions, including: estimated runtime, battery capacity, load capacity, etc
  • AUTOMATIC VOLTAGE REGULATION (AVR): Corrects minor power fluctuations without switching to battery power, thereby extending the life of the battery
  • 3-YEAR WARRANTY – INCLUDING THE BATTERY; dollars500,000 Connected Equipment Guarantee and FREE PowerPanel Personal Edition Management Software (Download)
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height9.75 Inches
Length13.25 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateAugust 2003
Size1500VA / 900W
Weight25 Pounds
Width4 Inches

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Found 102 comments on CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower:

u/Blindman213 · 22 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That's not a UPS. UPS is Uninterruptible Power Supply. Essentially a surge protector with a battery that, assuming it doesnt trip/blow due to an electrical surge, can keep you PC running for a few minutes so you can do a clean shutdown and clean you normal power so your components last longer.

This is the one I use. It is the cheapest SINEWAVE UPS you can get (long story short, pure sinewave is better for your components). If you just want a cheap backup, this one is also good.

As a side note before i get spammed, yes I know the one I use isn't a true sinewave, but is infact many, many rapid steps that for all intents and purposes creates a sinewave.

u/CMack1978 · 15 pointsr/homelab

Here is what I got going on (top to bottom, left to right):

I have my monitor and keyboard sitting on a lack side table
Then on top of my lack side table on casters (I could no longer find it on ikea for the link, not sure if they stopped selling them?) I have:

an AT&T MicroCell - which is awesome since my office (and this closet) is in the basement.

NETGEAR R6250 - which is used for guest Wi-Fi access only.

ieGeek USB LVM switch (behind the NETGEAR)

CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD UPS - Which is currently supporting only my 2 R710's for battery, the rest pictured for surge protection.

Then inside the lackrack:

Cablox Mini Cord Organizers stuck to the roof for clean cable management

Dell PowerConnect 5324 - 24 Port Gigabit

Dell R710 2x Xeon L5520, 32GB RAM, 8GB thumb, 120GB Samsung SSD, 6x2TB Seagate NAS HDD

  • FreeNAS 9.10-Stable baremetal install on 8GB thumbdrive
    6x2TB in RaidZ2

  • 120 SSD running on my plugins:

  • Plex

  • CouchPotato

  • Sonarr

  • SABnzbd

  • Transmission

    Dell R710 2x Xeon E5530, 32GB RAM, 8GB thumb, 6x1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD

  • VMware ESXi 6 baremetal on the 8GB thumb
  • Windows Server 2012 - DC, Primarily DNS and some other thingys
  • Confluence
  • Sophos UTM 9 - runs my entire lab and home network, FW and routing, etc.
  • Splunk - DS, Indexers, SH (which will probably consolidate sometime)
  • Syslog-ng
  • Misc temporary build machines for learning stuffs.. Most recently OpenStacks

    edit: listing stuffs..
u/John-Mc · 11 pointsr/buildapcsales

It's all about DC vs AC and how DC is converted to AC.

DC is the type of power that comes from a battery and AC is the type of power that comes from your household outlets.

DC is always positive or always negative (always flowing in one direction) but AC changes between positive and negative very rapidly. In the US we use what's called a split phase system that gives us 120v for our homes but regardless of what voltage it is it will fluctuate between +120v and -120v and in our case it will do so 60 times a second.

Pure Sine

The way the electricity changes from positive to negative can be represented mathematically and on a graph where it would appear as a wave going up and down. The shape of that wave and mathematical properties of the wave determines the name. The power provided to your home is a pure or true sine wave and is a smooth flowing transition between positive and negative, to be precise it is given this name because of the trigonometric function 'sine'.

Modified Sine

A modified or simulated sine wave makes sudden transitions to predetermined voltages until it reaches the desired voltage. This would appear on a graph like steps going up and down. Because our devices are designed for the pure sine wave in our homes, a modified sine wave is obviously less desirable. Different devices respond differently to modified sine waves, anything with an AC powered motor tends to have the toughest time and in some cases not work at all (like a ceiling fan) depending on the quality of the modified sine wave (how many steps).

DC > AC

Converting the DC from our UPS's battery to AC requires what we call an "inverter", a device that switches the power back and forth between positive and negative and also increases the voltage. A basic inverter that produces a modified sine wave will power most things but might have fewer steps between voltages to make the transition. A nicer one might have many more steps but the nicest inverters will actually fully simulate the smooth sine wave we have in out homes.

An inverter that produces a pure sine wave will be much more expensive but has a few benefits:

  • Powers any device as long as it doesn't exceed the inverters load capacity.
  • Devices might run cooler
  • Devices might run quieter (modified sine may cause devices to hum)
  • Will place less stress on devices
  • Devices might consume less power than they would running on modified sine.

    UPS
    As far as a UPS goes, like I said, modified sine is usually fine and getting a pure sine is not usually worth the extra cost. If you loose power frequently and have a ton of money in equipment invested already, then maybe it's worth it to you.

    If your new to choosing a UPS you should also know that all these UPS in this form factor will basically have the same amount of run time. They all have a ~9Ah battery in them and the only difference besides features is how much of load the inverter can take. This inverter has a very high load capacity considering its size and battery capacity and would work for almost any PC, even with multiple monitors, router and modem hooked up. The catch is that if you run this at capacity you might only get a couple minutes out of it. If you are more interested in run time you would want to get something more like this that has two batteries: https://amzn.com/B000FBK3QK

u/NessInOnett · 9 pointsr/techsupportgore

The strips may be fine but I've seen far too many reports of their UPS's catching fire to trust their engineering. Their top selling UPS on amazon has 3 pages of people saying it caught fire

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/product-reviews/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_kywd?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=1&filterByKeyword=fire#reviews-filter-bar

u/g1mike · 6 pointsr/amazon

CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD

Edit: Linked the wrong model. I actually have the PFC model. It has saved my work and equipment from loss so many times.

I have my router and modem on it too. When the power goes out, my WiFi light shines bright.

u/carnotredditor · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

I bought this a week ago when it was $94.95. Seems like a pretty good unit for the price and if you're looking to buy your first UPS I'd say this is a good choice.

EDIT: Wrong model, I only read the brand name and the power rating. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/xxh9 · 5 pointsr/homelab

Cyberpower or APC.

You're likely going to have to spend minimum $100 and have a size of at least 500W, and for three computers depending on the consumption, more like 750w. These usually come with the ability to power down a single computer.

These are the better "budget" brands of UPS units. Hopefully the unit has a voltage regulation feature for both dips and spikes.

Your electic bill will go up a bit, no matter what you do. Some are better than others.

u/Sam474 · 5 pointsr/Guildwars2

I could give you a longer and more detailed answer if you want one, but I'm going to start simple.

The one edxmon linked would probably be fine. Depending on your rig and monitor size and blah blah you'd likely be able to squeeze between 4 and 10 minutes of run time out of it if all you connected was the computer, the monitor, the modem, and your router. The fewer things you connect the longer it would run (so leave the modem and router off the battery if you don't care about being disconnected from the net during an outage).

I don't actually get power outages much, but I do get a lot of periods where the lights in the house dim for a few seconds and then come back up, these periods can be dangerous for computers (in some ways more dangerous than an occasional outage) so I run something with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation, some times also called Advanced Voltage Regulation) which basically ensures that my computer gets a stable and level amount of power all the time, never too much and never too little, by using capacitors built into the UPS to regulate power flow.

This is the actual model I am using right now. I have one of my monitors (the primary one), the computer itself, the router, and the modem connected to it. This means that if the power goes out I don't lose what I'm doing or my internet connection. I've never actually run it until it died but it estimates 15 to 30 minutes of runtime for me in an outage (how much time you get varies greatly with what you're doing, your computer uses much less power when you're editing a document in word than it does when you're playing a game, so the times vary).

This model is inbetween the one linked by edxmon and mine in both price and performance but it still offers AVR.

One thing a lot of people overlook is using more than one UPS. Don't plug one UPS into another one (ever!) but you can connect two to the wall outlet and plug the computer and monitor(s) into one and the modem and router into the other. So if you wanted to start buy purchasing the least expensive one and seeing if it meets your needs you can do that and if it doesn't give you enough time (or you decide you want AVR later) you can buy another and divide items up between them.

u/zero_to_n_minus_one · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It's anyone's guess how accurate ASUS anti-surge is, but, if you have a lot of brown/blackouts in your area, you might want to look into a UPS which can save your PSU and PC from damage. Outside of that,

>If my PSU is going bad, are there any other signs it should be showing?

your PC turning off suddenly

u/CalBearFan · 4 pointsr/sysadmin

I run this one -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00. Got it on sale for $97. It can connect via USB to a VM running on ESXI that can send a shutdown signal to your other hosts/machines. Won't power everything for long but has some good configuration options. Overall I'm very happy with it.

u/FireReadyAim · 3 pointsr/homelab

This isn't from personal experience, but the people I've talked to suggested cyberpower emphatically until you are into the fairly high end units.

If you're looking into high end rack mount units, or the crazy refridgerator size units, APC is good. It looks like you're looking in the $150 range, in which case everything I have heard would suggest that APC is a poor choice.

Incidentally, it looks like you're looking into the nicer version of the one that I have: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=pd_sim_e_3

Which has given me zero problems. I use it for my desktop, I intend to pick up another for my router/modem/file server in the near future. The software reckons that I have 24 minutes of battery and am currently using 186 watts.

u/GShepherd9 · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

A relatively inexpensive UPS could run a pfsense appliance for 3 hours. Not to mention the numerous benefits of AVR besides keeping the OS stable.
UPS: https://smile.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/
Appliance: https://store.netgate.com/SG-3100.aspx

u/commiecat · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have a CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD ($140 on Amazon with a wealth of reviews) and have been quite happy with it. We use APC at work which is what I wanted at home but went with the CyberPower as it was more affordable at the time for the wattage I was running (750 then, 1000 now).

I'm in Florida and we get a lot of storms during the summer. Unit has kept my PC safe and hasn't had any problems. The monitoring software isn't the prettiest but it's functional.

u/swat402 · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

Can you tell me how it compares to this cyberlink model they look pretty much the same to me except price? Also what kind of usage did it see? Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FBK3QK/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=259V432JVTPRO&coliid=I3A101U7F0OE45&vs=1

u/mad_vtak · 2 pointsr/synology

i literally just bought two of these last week after having a 10 sec power outage. DS1515+ I tested and i have a good 70min before power is lost from the UPS. the 2nd UPS is hooked up to my desktop and monitor. roughly 2hr 10min before power is completely lost.

edit: adding pics

Synology UPS

Desktop UPS

u/StrangerOfTheDay · 2 pointsr/gaming

Any electronic over 150$ Plug it into UPS like this one.

Im guessing your outlet, and or your house has shity wiring.

u/Superbuttpain · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hmm, what about something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449274420&sr=1-1&keywords=cyberpower

Specially if your a Web Designer least you want is doing some extensive work and out of sudden all is lost due to a power shortage. :p

u/cranq · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I had two of those little guys (older more brick like form) but after a good run (5 - 7 years) one of them died outright, and the other had very little capacity left. They were cheap enough that I just replaced them with a bigger one, check out this 1500VA bad boy

It comes with a nice little PC app that lets you monitor battery status, and estimates how long it can run based on current power draw.

Right now, I have mine powering a cable modem, wi-fi router, 16 port Ethernet switch, VOIP box, a small 2 disk NAS box, raspberry pi 2, raspberry pi 3, and a Panasonic wireless phone base station.

Total draw: 27 watts, estimated uptime: 467 minutes.

u/Froggypwns · 2 pointsr/buildapc

One decent unit is enough for most. The UPS will have two sets of ports on the back, those that have battery backup and those that only act like a regular power strip. Plug the PCs and the main monitor from each into the battery side, and the rest into the surge protection side.

How long the battery will last will depend on the actual draw from whatever is attached, the included software will let you monitor that information

I use an older version of this guy - https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK

u/rohit275 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Sorry for being noob...but what's %output THD? For example, here's the simulated sinewave cyberpower model:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486670594&sr=8-1&keywords=cyberpower+ups

They talk about how it's great for "desktop computers" but in their table they don't say it is rated for active PFC power supplies. Most of the people here (if they follow advice on BAPC) will buy an 80+ rated PSU that will always be active PFC. My impression is that it might work, but the only guaranteed ones are "pure sinewave" UPS units. I assume there is something better about the "pure sinewave" models that make them rated for PFC power supplies.

Does this %output THD have something to do with that? How do we determine it? (I didn't see anything on the product page on amazon, for example)

u/RecursivelyNerdy · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Try a UPS that has active filtering. I had that happen quite a bit and then I got something like linked below and I have no more problems. You'd be surprised at the fluctuations that can happen in your residential electrical.

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK

u/xgnarf · 2 pointsr/homelab

Battery backups aren't meant to keep your stuff running for an hour or two, they're for giving you a few minutes time in order to gracefully shut down your devices. If you want an hour or two you'll need to get a seriously overpowered UPS and at that point you're better off getting a generator. My 1500VA UPS gives me ~20 minutes with my ~225W load. Mine is a 1500VA Cyberpower UPS it's nice and I like it but it's not a rack mount, if that's what you want.

u/Chrisfragslive · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Lots of options but you don't need a pure sinewave, many use a simulated one and it's perfectly fine.

The issue is the pass through.. You need it to be big enough to carry the load of your rig at full power off of the battery.

I have this one and it keeps up with my high end gaming rig with a 1200watt psu..

CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HGhwDbZ1PWS6Z

u/Rumplesforeskin · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Everyone should get themselves one of these!
It's enough to keep my PC, monitor, modem, and router all on so even when the power goes out You can still game and your internet still works!

u/pythonpoole · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Personally I've used CyberPower UPS units like this one for many years without issue (this particular one has an average rating of 4.5 stars with 2800 reviews [73% rate it 5 stars]). However, I think the CyberPower warranty may only cover the UPS device itself.

Another popular brand that competes with CyberPower is APC.

u/LegalOak · 2 pointsr/PS4

This is a great investment. Living in an apartment complex, I experience several quick power cuts a month. I have my tv, receiver, game systems, modem and router hooked into this and never even notice. Internet stays on, cable stays on, gaming stays on.

I use this one for my computer.

These will keep your electronics safe.

u/attackpenguin · 1 pointr/Home

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00516547C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1374986466&sr=8-3&pi=SL75

Check this system out. I recently installed a similar system for a client. 480 TVL is the typical entry level camera resolution. Zmodo is easy to install and there is a ton of support in forums. Of course I installed a 1tb zmodo system with 8 dome cameras. Wired is definitely the way to go. I recommend installing a battery backup as well. Youll want to make sure you have internet and a router hooked up at the house.

Here is a link to a decent cheap battery backup: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FBK3QK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1374986911&sr=8-2&pi=SL75

Let me know if you have any questions ill be happy to answer any you have. Also if ya end up installing this type of system make sure to tell your insurance company they usually give you a nice discount.

u/Play_The_Fool · 1 pointr/solar

It's not viable to run a refrigerator on a UPS for an appreciable amount of time. Newer refrigerators don't surge as high on startup although the defrost cycle could pose a problem. I have this UPS for my computer and it can support a 900w load which means it can support a modern refrigerator easily. This unit has 2x 9Ah batteries, that's 216Wh before inverter losses. My desktop, monitors, speakers, etc are pulling 180w right now and the UPS says it has 43 minutes of runtime.

I have a 1-year old 18cuft refrigerator in my garage and with a kill-a-watt I measured 140w starting and once it settled down it ran at 108w. That's excellent if I have to run it on a generator, but that's a heavy load for a battery. 24hrs @ 50% run cycle would require 1,300Wh. That's going to require 240Ah of 12v lead acid batteries @ 50% depth of discharge. That's ~$400 in just batteries. A UPS that size is going to cost you thousands.

u/fanpple · 1 pointr/techtheatre

I can't seem to find the runtime chart for this one but it is 900w. Would that last for about an hour?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

u/NachosConCarne · 1 pointr/PS4

This is the one I have. It's been a little over a year that I've been using it and it works great. For my setup it gives more than enough time to save your progress and shut down. I have had times where I kept playing and the power came back on before I decided to save and shut down, granted the power was out for only a few minutes. But at least for me it gives me the piece of mind that all my gear is protected from any surges.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/YawnSpawner · 1 pointr/ReviewThis

I bought a Cyberpower 900W recently and love it. I upgraded from an APC 600W and it's remarkable how much better it is. My PC can last about 30 minutes on power now (3 minutes on my old one) and the UPS has the ability to connect via USB to the PC. It even shows a battery icon in the task bar, exactly as if it was a laptop. Solid buy for anyone needing a good UPS.

u/Goldensunboy · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Although I can't answer your question, I would definitely recommend getting a UPS. I live in the country and have relatively frequent power outages, so I got one and it's kept my desktop and NAS going for months through many blinks and brownouts. This is the one I use, which is a bit overkill in terms of how much power my setup actually uses: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/

u/addiscoin · 1 pointr/MoneroMining

Nope, I am running EthOS and it's not a shutdown, the battery literally get sucked dry. It seems odd to me as I would think the battery should only be in use when the power supply is not available, but that appears to not be the case. My guess is the power draw (1500w effective) is too much for the UPS. Looking at the UPS I tried on my rig, it says 900w. Perhaps that is the issue.

u/HalfBearded · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Looking to get an UPS... My roommates trip the circuit breaker at least twice a week and I really want to protect my investment

Heres my build:

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/p8tfP3

Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/p8tfP3/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler

Motherboard: MSI - Z170A PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard

Memory: Kingston - HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory

Storage: SanDisk - SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.00 @ Adorama)

Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card

Case: Fractal Design - Define S ATX Mid Tower Case

Power Supply: Corsair - RM 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 8.1 OEM 64-bit

Monitor: BenQ - XL2411Z 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor

Monitor: BenQ - XL2411Z 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor

Keyboard: Corsair - K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard

Mouse: ROCCAT - NYTH Wired Laser Mouse

Total: $49.00

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-03 04:01 EDT-0400

LMK if the Cyberpower or the APC would be good choices. Im a bit worried since I picked up a massive PSU that I really didnt need. (My build changed over time)

Im assuming that my max power would be under 500 watts but im not sure how that changes under load. Any help would be appreciated

u/purebishop · 1 pointr/techsupport

To add to this, especially if you're protecting a desktop computer, you may want to consider an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). Most have the same features as a high-end surge protector, but will also safely shut down your computer using the USB interface. I personally use this one for my main rig.

u/Famzilla · 1 pointr/buildapc

Holy shit those are expensive.

Looking on amazon I found this to be sutible. Looks like it has some neat features and is much more affordable.

u/Stalked_Like_Corn · 1 pointr/techsupportmacgyver

I'm telling you this right here could give you the time needed to shut your stuff down and if you do it quickly, leave far more than enough to run a router/modem for a while. I know it's hard to justify the cost but suddenly shutting down your PC with the heads of the harddrive not in the resting area can cause more headaches (and be more expensive) then not having this. If it saves your harddrive one time it's more than paid for itself. A harddrive alone will be the cost of this and when you throw in the fact you will lose hours upon hours of trying to get a new harddrive, installing it, installing your OS, replacing everything you lost. You come out ahead.

Also, as a bonus, those pictures of yours that you can't replace because you never made a backup copy, won't be forever gone. Two things that every computer should have and you don't want to skimp on cost with. A battery backup and a power supply. Let a cap bust in your cheap PSU and you're replacing the whole thing. Let a power surge come through when the lights kick back in and you should grab the marshmallows and roast them over the fire and melted plastic that used to be your PC.

u/toomanytoons · 1 pointr/techsupport

I've had good luck with Cyberpower units. Previously used APC and Tripplite, they're not bad, but a couple died.... oddly; not just the battery. If you really want to go that high, I'd look at the 1500VA with AVR. I don't know what the rest of your components are but I really doubt you need one that large. I have a pair of 1000VA units (only because they were on sale several thanksgivings ago) on our gaming PC's and they keep going through black outs. Of course when the power goes out you usually save and back out.. Once the game stops the power draw drops dramatically giving you more time to shut down if you want, instead of riding it out.

As a general rule, the higher the VA the longer the run time, and AVR is nice, but it probably isn't a deal breaker to not have it.

You could consider putting a Kill-A-Watt on your PC see how much actual electricity you use under load. Idle it's probably less than 60W.

u/JohnoTheFoolish · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

That battery is 35 amp-hours vice the 28 Ah in the one I linked. Assuming comparable losses in the converter, you could expect a similar and slightly longer run time. A typical UPS for home/office use like this one has about 10-15 Ah. It would power a laptop for probably 1.5-2 hours.

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History


  • CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD Series UPS 1500VA 900W AVR Mini-Tower   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★☆ 4.2/5 from 3934 valid reviews
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u/gorejaws · 1 pointr/buildapc

I just got an EVGA P2 1000W PSU and I'm looking to get a UPS for my new build.

Will my PSU be fine with a simulated (square) sine UPS? Or do I need a pure sine one?

Will this work?

Or do I need this?

They have the same capacity, they just differ in the output type.

u/jtl012 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I do plan on upgrading my gpu down the road. The UPS I was looking at was this one

u/fireye9 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Seems to have expired as of 11 PM PST 12/28/2016. Amazon seems to still have the lowered price: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482994821&sr=1-1&keywords=cyberpower+1500avr

Amazon no longer lists it at that price as of 11 AM PST, 12/29/2016.

Edit: Additional Information

u/mosotaiyo · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1520645143&sr=8-8&keywords=UPS+AVR

This is what I'm currently looking at, I'm just unsure if 900w is sufficient for my desktop 650w PSU, and also my monitor and a few other things like headset/mouse etc...

But the UPS does list it as AVR, and it seems to be well received on amazon.

u/SuperiorJig · 1 pointr/techsupport

From the other suggestions, it's most likely the outlet you are plugged into. I would suggest purchasing a UPS similar to this one so it would compensate for whatever power drop occurs from that outlet.

u/jagazi · 1 pointr/buildapc

uhh i have no clue this is the one i was looking at


CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L1aSDb34Y7AJF

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Amd

This is what I have. It supports a PC with a 750 watt psu, two LCDs, and my MacBook pro. I think it'll power my pc and dual LCDs for 50 minutes on battery. It cleans the power source for everything I plug into it.

CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS 1500VA 900W AVR Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DnVTub1SN40J4

u/Anduril1123 · 1 pointr/buildapc

When gaming the 970 will draw about 150W (up to 300W if overclocked), your i5 will draw 80 - 120 W depending on the specific model, and including the rest of the components your tower as a whole will probably be closer to 400W than 200W. Throw in 50W for a standard LCD monitor and 15W for a router/modem, and your total power draw will be closer to 465W assuming you aren't overclocking your GPU or CPU. For a system like this I would recommend something like this.

u/ManiacDC · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I'm asking about the wall outlet voltage. If you're in the US it's 115V (well, 110).

The higher the watts, the more equipment you can put on it.
The higher the Joules the better surge protection.
Some UPS's put out a sine wave on battery, some don't. A sine wave is needed for 100% compatibility, but many machines work fine when not on a sine wave.

Here's some examples below... of course there are much more expensive options too.

This one can output 900W, 1030J suppression (and it outputs a Sine wave):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W?ref=emc_b_5_t

This one can output 900W, 1500J suppression (It does NOT output a sine wave):
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=pd_lpo_23_lp_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G3C88Q3PEAQMH1YM3QG9

This one can do 865W, 354J (probably not a sine wave):
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=pd_lpo_23_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=G3C88Q3PEAQMH1YM3QG9&th=1

Also, based on your PC Part list, you could get use a 810W (1350VA) model too.

u/Seymour-Butz442 · 1 pointr/homedefense

Look into GeoVision camera and 8ch NVR. Then like the last guy said have the contractor lay down the cat5 where you want the camera to NVR.

With geovision you can have the NVR plugged directly into internet and stash it in the closet. Then you can use a mini shitty old pc, download their remote viewer called “edge recording manager”, plug the pc into the tv in the lobby, and have it broadcasting off tv in the lobby for everyone to see.

The for the mobile they have an app called GV-eye. It’s pretty good! Just make sure you have the correct ports open on your router, so everything can talk and play nicely!

NVR: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323421060448


Cameras: https://www.nothingbutsavings.com/Product/388784-GeoVision-GV-EDR2100-2F-2MP-H264-Low-Lux-WDR-IR-Mini-Fixed-Rugged-IP-Dome-783555124574?ai=1550&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o5&scid=scplp388784&sc_intid=388784&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_vfcBRDJARIsAJafEnHsjkdQyFEOQC-ZHK9Ir0FPrfdQd7DDv5ZUvG87HWdsfun-4F0iHtgaAvUhEALw_wcB



EXTRA BROWNIE POINTS: add a UPS and plug your router, internet modem, and NVR to have backup power in outages! CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p.UNBbW9VZVD1

u/Detached09 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I got this one from Amazon (old version so it looks a bit different) about two years ago and it's been solid.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=twister_B00TUXM6PA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/Getterac7 · 1 pointr/CR10

My CR-10 burns about 150w while in use, and I'd assume the CR-10 S5 would use more to heat the bigger build surface. Get something with at least 600 Wh.

I have mine on something like this and it works great.

u/Crimson5 · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Can kinda confirm. Had a power outage and lost work on desktop. Found old UPS in my house and decided to use it, had another outage hours later and it completely failed me.

I figured hey this doesn't happen often in this neighborhood right? Decided to stick it out with regular power strip. A day later we had a power spike or whatever you call it when the power dips and the lights dim. Computer is dead again.

In a fit of rage drive to Canada computers and pick up this puppy. It is a Cyber Power 1500av 900w UPS.

No regrets, will never lose work or damage $2000 rig again :D

u/PacM0n · 1 pointr/nvidia

A battery backup as in a UPS. I was wondering if you were having a power delivery issue to the monitor. But you deleted your post so I don't remember if you said that you updated your display port drivers? https://www.nvidia.com/object/nv-uefi-update-x64.html


Also under after burner go to settings ---> monitoring ---> uncheck power then hit apply

u/kheszi · 1 pointr/Hikvision

Factory resetting the camera usually involves a reset button on the camera itself (push and hold when powering on) then just add it back to the NVR with the same password. Check the NVR system log carefully for any indications of improper shutdown or power loss. If you see these, consider putting the system on an inexpensive UPS like a Cyberpower to protect it from issues resulting from power loss. If no such entries are found in the log, consider replacing the cable running to that particular camera as you might have an intermittent power loss due to poor/damaged cabling. Good luck.

Good:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/

Better:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/

u/ShadowMorph · 1 pointr/Koyoteelaughter

Is there a way for you to set up automatic periodic saving? :)
Sounds like something like that would save you a ton of trouble.

Also, how long are the power outages usually? A few seconds, to a few minutes?
I'm thinking a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) here, something like https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?tag=hotoge-20 would at least give you a few minutes of warning before the computer shuts down.

u/wildjokers · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This one has a review (with picture proof) of a cyberpower UPS catching on fire:

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538419007&sr=8-3&keywords=cyberpower+ups

Thanks to the link to refurbups.com, for some reason I totally forgot about that site (had been aware of it before).

u/tolitius · 1 pointr/videosurveillance

thank you for the list

I am still researching DORI and differences between cameras, but from what I gathered so far here is what I need:

  • blue iris $70 (with a phone app)
  • pc (since it only supports windows) likely i7-6700 something like this
  • PoE switch: something like this
  • router, I have an old lynksys with dd-wrt which should do it
  • several very long ethernet cables with some couplers
  • most likely also a UPS
  • ONVIF, PoE cameras

    the last bit I am still looking at. I am not ready to spend several hundred dollars per camera (one of your examples is Dahua 2MP Starlight which seems to be super expensive). While I understand it might be much better than the rest, I'd like to see if I can be in a $50 to $100 dollar range per camera. Is there any such cameras you can recommend?

    I can see some (ONVIF, PoE): Hikvision 4MP, ONWOTE 5MP, ONWOTE, 4X Optical Zoom Autofocus, Amcrest ProHD, GW Security 5, JideTech PTZ, etc. but I am not sure how to gauge the quality.
u/Thathappenedearlier · 1 pointr/RocketLeague

GET YOURSELF A UPS. THEY CAN POWER YOUR COMPUTER FOR WHEN YOUR POWER GOES OUT AND THEY MODULATE VOLTAGE OUTPUT WHICH CAN MAKE YOUR PSU LAST LONGER. AT LEAST THE ONE I LINKED DOES.

u/gregorthebigmac · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Hmm... either you've had bad experiences with yours, or I've just had really good experiences with mine (I have the 1000VA version). It took a while to tweak it and get it right, but once I did, it's been flawless. I've had the power go out at least 3 times when losing data would have been crippling, and it gave me about 5 minutes (running two monitors, my tower and my router/modem) to save everything and shut down. I was never so relieved. Plus, once I shut down the PC and shut off the monitors, it keeps the router and modem going, which means I still get Wifi on my phone for a solid hour while I wait for the power to come back on.

u/Corm · 1 pointr/Vive

Well, a treadmill will probably run you a few thousand (5 to 10 probably), so you shouldn't have any problem spending an extra $150 on a UPS:

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK

u/BuckyDog · 1 pointr/hometheater

These Cyberpower units claim to regulate voltage to some degree ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_ZIUDDbSHBS2SS ). They sell them at Costco also. I was using one for about four years, then it started turning off sometimes at night. I could get it back on, but a week later it would always be off again randomly. Anyway, I think it was worth the price.

I think APC sells very similar units that have the same or better AVR features.

u/vapeducator · 1 pointr/InlandEmpire

My neighbors are frequently confused when their power is out but they still see my lights and TV on and they hear the audio playing.

I have several of these Uninterruptible Power Supplies. Sometimes they're on sale from as low as $100-120, with their regular prices from $150-200. This cheeper one uses a modified stepped-wave inverter that will work with most electronics, but this better one has a pure sinewave inverter output that will work for even the most sensitive medical equipment. You can use the CamelCamelCamel price checker plugin app for Amazon to watch for price drops.

If you build a few PCs and get a few SmartTVs that are highly power efficient, then you can have enough backup power for Internet, phone, cable TV and LED lighting for more hours than any recent power outage. I have an ultra low power 35W TDP PC and 4K TV for under 100 watts.

u/dazedman00 · 1 pointr/homelab

you can get cyberpower 1500va units for around $150. They are amazing products. this could very well be overkill but the price point is good and you have plenty of headroom for upgrades.

u/babecafe · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

UPS systems have only 1-3 minutes of so of run time at maximum power. You may want a UPS with AVR (voltage regulation) if you're switching to a locally generated source. You'll need to scale your UPS by the maximum power rating: a 1500VA unit: https://smile.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK a 600VA unit: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000OTEZ5I

u/TheNoob91 · 1 pointr/VanLife

For heating Im someone who gets over heated in 50°F weather (idk the celcsius conversion but essentially its cold for most people). In my case i would find a personal space heater, as the one i own already makes me sweat with one blanket on and the thing on low heat pointed at me. Idk what the power consumption is but if u just keep the van well insulated and are cozied up with a bigger electric heater than maybe you'll be fine.

As far as water goes I would just get a big 5 gallon bottle from the grocery store (unless that's just a stupid American thing idk). Often keeping one and just bringing it back to the store u can refill it for way cheaper than the original purchase.

Also for a toilet ive heard composting ones are pretty great but thats something I havent looked into yet.

When it comes to how you would power the van id say that one will be hard because I heard the UK is mostly cloudy meaning solar could work but youre not going to get much out of it and really only could charge a phone or something off it. There are giant battery packs you can buy like
this: CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gLXqDbNZ1G63C.

obviously that's american plugs so find something suitable for your power draw and for your socket type. That you would have to plug in somewhere else to charge though which could take some time #1 but it would at least be portable in a sense rather than strapping batteries down and having those external camper plugs that you would have to drive somewhere to charge up.

u/seedyrom · 1 pointr/techsupport

Surge protectors don't always help :/ . I have something similar to this . It's expensive, but it saves you money in the long run.

u/majesticjg · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

>Does that mean that I can do 400w for 7.5 minutes?

Mostly, yes, but it will probably be more like 5 minutes.

And, yes, you can plug in a power strip to support more devices.

Keep in mind that high-capacity backup units are pretty cheap so it isn't the end of the world if you have to buy another.

Fun fact, you can daisy chain them to run them longer.

u/smokeNtoke1 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

It's this 1500VA/900 Watt UPS. I was assuming I'd be wiring in parallel.. I should also point out that this is 12 gauge AWM.

u/dirtyunclechris · 1 pointr/buildapc

http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK

Select the 600VA option.. Not bad for $60. Has 8 outlets, 4 of which are backed up by the battery.

I have my rig, PS4, 360, and Monitor plugged into the backup slots. Keep in mind that it's only going to last a few minutes on battery, but it's better than a complete outage.

u/HuhhDoe · 1 pointr/battlestations

i used these brackets first and velcro'd all the wires together to run them through. I used 3M tape for the power banks and superglue for the LED strips. I'm using 2 outlets to power everything, one of which leads to a UPS which handles a ton of the power management.

u/arnemetis · 1 pointr/PleX

Glad to be of help. For a realistic example, I suggest this unit (maybe watch for some sales?) I use this on my gaming & work pc, with 3x monitors and beefier setup I'm pulling 270 watts and looking at about 20 minutes of runtime - https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK I use a 625va on my router & switch, and can get a few hours out of that.

u/rhetorical_rapine · 1 pointr/classicwow

> Power went out for 2 mins. Now I'm in what looks to be a 10 hour queue because Bliz decided that Aus only needed one PVP server and one normal.

because you didn't have this, yet, in your bag of tricks

I keep telling people that this device is one of the best expenses you can make regardless of where you live! Sorry to hear about your situation, hope queues clear up for you!

u/Eddirter · 1 pointr/homelab

Yep it's a good deal, I actually considered buying a second one today. I did have an issue where I had to get them to adjust the price over chat now that I think about it so maybe there was something buddy with the item? Definitely worth the hassle. There's actually another one without sine wave but 1500va on right now as a lightning deal for $138. CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS 1500VA 900W AVR Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qnAHxb692DZX8

u/kramer314 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Look at the comparison grid for the AVR UPS you linked (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000FBK3QK/), that differentiates it from a pure sine wave unit. The comparison grid on the page for the pure sine wave UPS compares that UPS to several much higher end units.

And one easy way to check wattage would be to make a list of your build on something like PC Part Picker and it will estimate the wattage.

u/Vinceisg0d · 1 pointr/buildapc

So I would want this one?

It goes on sale in an hour and a bit.

u/Drainmav · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks for posting that info. I'm not the OP but I'm building my new rig now and I often have power spikes where my lamps dim when the AC kicks on so I've worried about that. Is there any special type of UPS you'd recommend for this? I saw Amazon has this for $140 which is what I was leaning towards as its well reviewed.

u/lohktar · 1 pointr/Amd

heh I have a UPS, http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Rated for 900w I pull 835 or so when running firestrike. One of the only reasons I want to upgrade is to reduce power consumption.

u/trebills · 1 pointr/homelab

The one I have is OK haven't had any problems. I plan on getting a new one soon with larger capacity. Been looking at this one, CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS 1500VA 900W AVR Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lrjvxbDWFYNKH

u/x3lr4 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Before you go and buy a fancy strip with surge protection for $50+, consider investing in something like the CyberPower - CP1500AVRLCD UPS. This is not just a phenomenal surge protector, but will also keep your things running, depending on power draw, between 3 and 20 minutes realistically.

u/nicking44 · 1 pointr/buildapc

it honestly doesn't matter to much but I'd recommend something like this . but the bigger the battery the longer you have to safely turn everything off before it dies.

u/sonicrings4 · 0 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Kind of a meh deal. I bought a CyberPowerPC 1500VA/900W UPS last year for $142 (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/)

Sadly not pure sine wave but you only really need a pure sine wave UPS for audio equipment anyway.

u/tweedyrug · 0 pointsr/buildapc

Build looks pretty good, the 1070 should be plenty to max any games you want to play at 60 fps, as long as you aren't doing 4k, multi-monitor surround etc. Even then it could do alright, just with appropraitly tweaked settings. If you're doing 1080p or 1440p @ 60 Hz then you should have no problems whatsoever.

As for the UPS:

You need to be careful shopping for one that will be used for sensitive electronics like a PC, as you'll need one with specific features. Something like this would probably suite your needs. In general though, you'll want to look for a UPS the is made to be used with computers and other sensitive electronics; not all are. Some don't regulate incoming power and don't guarantee a clean 120V AC current, since they don't do any regulation of incoming power. "Dirty" power like this can destroy PSUs and other computer components (though it should stop at the PSU if you buy a good one). If you buy an appropriate PSU, they actually offer the added benefit of protecting your system from any kind of electrical anomalies such as surges and brown outs, as well as preventing unsafe power cuts. Also, keep in mind that even high end PSUs will only have enough power to keep a system running for a handful of minutes; if you wanted extended uptime from them you'd have to expand the battery banks extensively, and that ain't cheap.

If you want to see how long your system could run off a particular PSU, they all measure their available up-time with Volt Amperes. It can be a little mind-boggling so here's some links:

http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/34745/choosing-power-supply-how-to-get-the-voltage-and-current-ratings

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/256419-28-rails-voltage-amps-explain

P.S. I'm from the U.S. so everything is 120V AC @ 60Hz. You may be running 220V? Something else to be aware of.

u/The_Russian · -1 pointsr/buildapc

I have absolutely no idea, but it looks like you may want this if you want to keep you computer on it (over your budget, but currently on sale), or something like this thats more so within your budget but wont support your PC. You could also get a tool to test and get an exact-imate power draw from the wall for what you want to use and then return it and buy your UPS. For the record i simply went to amazon and typed UPS and picked the top two things.