Reddit mentions of DGK Color Tools Optek Premium Reference White Balance Card Set- 3 Card Set- 3 Card Digital Color Correction Tool

Here's the wikipedia entry, but basically it's a 'known reference value' (18% gray) sheet of plastic.

They're quite cheap to acquire. I use one similar to this one on Amazon.

you could start by buying one of these http://www.amazon.com/DGK-Color-Tools-Reference-Correction/dp/B001KNP3MQ/ref=lp_3109910011_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1419966344&sr=1-1
but you get the hang of it after few years

Hard to tell much from the pictures. Miniatures photophraphy is tricky. Here is an awesome tutorial on how to do it to a level of near perfection. But I have some tips from when I started out with just a point-and-shoot camera that might be useful:

Lighting - Someone already mentioned to disable the flash. That's absolutely the right thing to do unless you have a little photo studio setup with seperate flashes setup to key off the camera. Since 99% of the people here don't, what you should use are just some regular lamps. Two lamps slightly above your subject, offset to the left and right, and positioned far enough away to minimize shadows is a great setup. Make sure that they have the same type of bulb that gives off the same color. You can certainly get by with just one light, sometimes even just a room light, but avoid the flash.

Background - Clear backgrounds are best, as it allows the viewers to really just focus on the miniature(s). I used a few clean sheets of printer paper, curving the background sheet so it reduced shadows. The white paper gives the added benefit of "bouncing" light on the model, lighting up the model and reducing shadows.

Camera mode and focusing - Many people use macro mode on their point-and-shoot cameras, but this doesn't always work. Typically this mode is noted by an icon of a flower (for some reason a tulip). Macro mode typically changes a few automatic settings, each camera tends to be slightly different. Play around with this mode and others on your camera to see which one focuses better. Remember that getting close to your mini doesn't make it easier for your camera to focus. The camera has an minimum range on focusing, so you need to find the sweet spot. Cropping a well focused picture is better than trying to fill the frame with out-of-focus subjects.

Tripod - Cheap tripods are awesome for miniatures photography. Even if you're just getting a small desk tripod, a gorillapod, a large sized tripod, or even a phone tripod it doesn't need to be expensive. Expensive tripods are built to be tough for travel, you're likely not doing that, you just need to keep the camera stable and off the floor. You can certainly even get by without a tripod at all if you just stack a few books up or whatever. Really what you need is a way to take a picture with your hands off the camera. Typically all cameras, even phone cameras have a timed shot. Set the timer for the lowest setting, typically 2 seconds. After setting up your shot, and pressing the shutter, you can take your hands off the camera and make sure it doesn't shake or screw up the focus.

Color or White Balance - This can be a bit tricky. Cameras try to automatically adjust to get optimal color from a photo, but sometimes, when lighting or background or subject matter is dominant in color, the pictures end up looking weird. People sometimes describe this as the photo looking too cool/cold (blue hues) or too warm/hot (red hues) and that's usually a sign that the white balance is dorked up. When you take a picture as I recommended with a white sheet of paper as the background, you might see this blue or red hue shift that I'm talking about. You can use a number of free photography editors (like Pixlr) to help you with adjusting this after you've taken the picture. Essentially you're trying to adjust the picture to return white to being white. Trick here is that "white" paper is rarely "pure white" so this complicates matters. Fancier cameras (DSLRs typically) have settings to help adjust and take pictures that are properly balanced, sometimes requiring the photographer to have a reference card to show the camera what white, grey, or black should look like in a photo. Refer to the tutorial I linked at the top of this post for more information on how to achieve this balance using those cards and a DSLR.

That's all I have for photography. Your models look pretty good from what I can see, my one thing... ONE thing would be to drill your weapon barrels, or at the very least paint a little black dot there. Sorry, it's a personal hang-up. As I am a fellow Ork player, I might be able to give you more advice should you need it. Let me know. Here are some of my old blog posts talking about my Orks.

>You might want to pick up a color slate (similar to what comes with the PADI underwater photographer book) that has the spectrum on it. Flash it up in front of your GoPro once a while so you know what colors should look like and you can go correct it later.

I picked up one of these and it works out pretty nice. LightWorks has a nice feature where you can use an eyedropper and select either the white gray or black card and it will color correct.

You WB is off. Both the temp and the hue look out of whack. Get a gray card like this and be sure to take a shot of it under the lighting conditions before your shoot. Then set the WB from that once you start processing. It will make all you colors be more true.