Reddit mentions of Duracell Instant USB Charger/Includes Universal Cable with USB & mini USB, 1 Count

This is the one I use. It's USB in and USB out.

Link to this on Amazon

Since I made the album on my phone I can't add captions. So I'll explain it here.

After looking all over the place for some sort of DIY project of making the TrackClip Pro wireless, I decided I'd give it a shot. My TrackClip Pro has seen better days anyways. All it is is a 3x AAA battery pack, switch, and green LED from Radioshack in a plastic housing. It definitely isn't going to be my finished product because of how bulky it is. I need to find some way to make it a lot smaller, maybe even breaking it into two packs.

I think next I'm going to try using a smaller switch and LED, as well as a small circuit board to solder it all onto. Because right now it is somewhat heavy, and I need to make it more compact. In the pictures I have it sitting vertical on the headset. It's much better sitting horizontal on it as far as having that giant chunk on your ear.

It seems to work great off of the 3 AAAs although I have no idea how long the battery life will last. From reading around the TrackIR forums it seems that it draws 5v typically from the USB, and the AAAs are only putting out 4.5v. So we'll see how that goes.

I've seen people use the rechargeable emergency USB chargers like this one but I didn't feel like dropping $30 on it, plus I like to build things myself!

A few of my suggestions (I have no clue what the price range is):

• Wool Buff - $30 - get a funky color, they are versitile in winter
  
• Gloves Kinko work style - $25 or FlyLow John Henry - $30 - both quality, light gloves
  
• Chap stick - $5 - a funky case or just fluff to add to your gift
  
• Liquor mini bottles - $5 each - it gets cold out there
  
• Clif Bars - $5 each - hippy hikers eat these up (literally)
  
• Duracell USB battery pack - $11 - phone/camera batteries die fast in cold weather
  
• HotHands warmers - $13 - I really don't like these things, but most people do. Zippo version is pimp
  

thats actually a thing

edit: http://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Instant-Charger-Includes-Universal/dp/B002FU6KF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414440208&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+operated+usb+charger

Do you have a car? You could amplify with the car's speakers. If there's no audio jack in the car, they sell little fm transmitters. You could keep a laptop charged for ableton with power from the cigarette lighter, using a power inverter (like $20). Might want to keep the car engine running (but only outdoors and with lots of room for ventilation) so the car battery doesn't die on you. You could even set up on the roof of the (stationary) car, or in the bed, if it's a pickup. Why? Because, your punk as f*ck, that's why.

Things like the raspberry pi, wiimotes and gaming controllers could also make you a little more portable if you're not wedded to the push. A single wiimote, sending just bluetooth to your computer is equivalent - by my quick count - to a midi controller with 4 knobs (x,y,z,acceleration) and roughly a dozen buttons. Add infrared and that's a few more knobs. Then, in osculator and/or ableton, you can increase those figures exponentially by mapping events to button combinations. (E.g., the A and B buttons are each mapped to unique midi messages like c1 and c#1, while pressing A and B buttons at the same time is mapped to something different like f#2).

Any set is going to be a lot more portable if you're not responsible for your own amplification, or if the location of speakers is flexible. I haven't quite figured out whether this last one is viable yet, but it SEEMS like the Chromecast could be a budget option for wireless audio. If that were the case, you could brusk anywhere there's a tv. There are tutorials online re: using the Chromecast as a wireless hi-fi with the aid of hdmi audio splitter cables, or something.

In a similar vein, a raspberry pi with a WiFi or Bluetooth dongle running pd-extended or something would be laptop-ish. It couldn't any handle heavy lifting like ableton, but it could be useful as an audio or midi interface, or for getting bigger equipment like amps off site. I've actually been toying with this last one a little. I'm going to use the pi as a headless, wireless relay for data from bend sensors and ultrasonic sensors weaved into my clothes, and run through arduinos so they can act as mid I controllers inside ableton, but so I can still dance around, untetheredA term of art for productive googling with that kind of idea is "wearables" or "e-textiles". Make magazine has a few features on the concept.

I'm trying to powering the pi with this: http://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Instant-Charger-Includes-Universal/dp/B002FU6KF2

For getting audio (e.g, from a guitar) into the pi, or iOS devices, I'm using a uca-222. It's tiny, cheap and USB powered.

For wireless/portable midi or osc, don't overlook your phone, either. A lot of iOS apps can send midi and/or osc messages if you set up your laptop to broadcast an ad hoc network. An app called "Lemur" lets you do all kinds of midi/osc stuff. People post tons of templates for controlling ableton, Max for live, and even specific 3rd party plugins, all from an iOS device. You can also just put together your own custom interface. Touch OSC and Mr Mr also do this kind of thing. The ad hoc network thing was kind of a nightmarish process the first time I tried to figure it out, and with the lag it's probably not suited to actual, virtuosic finger drumming. An app called Apollo midi over Bluetooth (assuming you have Bluetooth 4.0 (LE), has worked a lot better for me with less lag and fewer dropped handshakes (which will be an issue if you do this in public, where the spectator's own phones are competing for your radio bandwidth.) Apollo is "musical" enough that with a slow song, at least, you could use it for notes. Try midimorphosis through Apollo (the "audiobus"" app is useful, but not necessary for this) into ableton. You can then sing into your phone, for example, with real-time midi accompaniment. Again, you're not going to wow anyone with your blistering voice controlled guitar solo, but it's passable for pads or chords. And anyway, there's no such thing as late notes in ableton...

I'm not really heeding any of my own advice. I'm trying to prepare a busking too, and I want it to be portable, but I can't bring myself to exclude the push. Right now I'm just using rolling modular wire shelving to support everything. The wheels have brakes, but it's too lightweight and it shakes when I press the push, which is a non-starter.

There are little tables made specifically for supporting the push or the apc40. You've seen them. They look a little like music notation stands. Very portable. Or if you want to go the opposite direction, or just make a statement, you could use a lectern. I used a wooden one as a makeshift standing desk for a while. It was cheap. Any university surplus store should sell them.

There are tons of ways you can economize for live performance just within the push itself. You probably went with push for that exact reason. But just like with ableton, don't put the horse before the cart. Make sure you know all of its features inside out. If there's something tricky you want to try, always first ask yourself whether it's built into push or ableton. It's heartbreaking to feel like you've just discovered fire, only to realize fire is a basic feature. It feels downright unbecoming of an artist to "read the manual," I know, but make an exception for this one thing.

With that said, here's two dirty tricks for live performance: Map velocity and after touch. There are a couple aftertouch M4L devices out there. Map either of these to, well, anything, for instant awesome. For instance: if you're playing the notes of a melodic solo instrument on push's pads: map the velocity (how hard you hit the pads) to the sync rate on an arpeggioator or beat repeat. Map aftertouch (how hard you press the pad after initially pressing) to something like an lfo rate. After touch in particular is fun if people are up close. Technically if you had it mapped to pitch, you could play -like actually play - the melody of an entire song with a single finger, theremin-style. But the fact that that's actually happening would just be lost on everyone if you were on stage.

Finally, if you're playing right next to people, instead of on a stage, consider implementing an interactive aspect. Motionmod or faceosc on a laptop pointed towards the audience would pay easy wow-factor dividends. And there are a few tutorials around re: mobile midi-triggering dance floors.

I have never used a watch with ultra-track so I'm not sure of the trade-offs.

You can get a Duracell battery at any grocery store too. I bought a plain jane one and it's lasted me for years. This little fella.

A little overkill...I'd think an 1,050 mah battery like the Duracell Instant USB Charger would be more cost effective and useful.

This from experience though...We run the XP8000's as external BP for our cameras when we work on set, the only time we've used them for GoPro's is when we needed to do a time lapse over the course of a few hours. General rule of thumb with video is to not record more than you need too...Guys who walk out of an OP with 12 hours of footage and actually sit down and edit that are crazy. I'd rather just be good with 8 hours of run time and just pick a window I'm recording in.

I agree, I bought a Droid on release day, and ended up starting to carry around a USB cable + one of these to keep it charged.

But occasionally I read things like "The Droid X has a better battery life" or "The Incredible is awful", and I was hoping for any hard data.

I'm trying to help a number of friends upgrade to Droids (everyone I know is on Verizon), and I know that battery life is a big concern for all of them- probably because it's the only downside they are aware of.

http://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Instant-Charger-Includes-Universal/dp/B002FU6KF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344702579&sr=8-1&keywords=duracell+iphone+charger

I'm from the UK, but I got this one when it was on sale in some discount store, its not $10 but still worth it, you could probably get a non branded one for closer to $10

Something like this?

Still need more clarification.

Easy to move / portable? Yes. It's small.
Can it be used while it's being moved? Yes. You can use a USB battery back like this or this one.
Can it be used outdoors? Depends on the weather. You'll need a weatherproof case to use it in very humid areas and where it rains a lot.

I've used these in several little projects. They're so damn cheap, and unlike most other brands (Anker, etc.) it actually has a physical switch instead of an automatic internal switch (a diode? I don't do circuits.) to turn power on and off...you'd think it was common sense but I guess your average consumer doesn't like switches on USB batteries... which can be frustrating because many applications don't require the power that it takes to get the damn things to stay on.

The one I linked is the only one I can vouch for. Duracell seems to have a few other options, but I can't say whether they're automatic (as I said, often bad), or whatever other attributes you may find undesirable. The only downside is that it's only ~1200 mAh, but that's been plenty for me.

Looking back at your post I realized I slightly misunderstood what you were doing. But in terms of ruggedness and portability I think it would be a better option to just mount the pirate box in a case(which I am trying to find on that will work well for this, so if you have any ideas!?) and carry a separate device. The pirate box interface is all browser accessible, So phone/tablet/netbook/etc. would be fine to access it from.
I bought a rechargeable power cell This style was used and recommended in a pirate box build I read. I am really impressed with how light and small it is. We will see how long the battery life is with the wifi but I expect it won't be too terrible.

I don't know of any devices that will do that off the shelf, but I have an external booster battery that about doubles the life of my smart phone which I use for GPS tracking.

It is sort of awkward and bulky. But it works.

You might even use one of those portable USB chargers if you didn't want to break out the laptop. You'd have to be good about recharging the charger afterward, but you wouldn't have to run the ac adapter to the wall.

Then again, you might want a laptop to look stuff up while playing.

May or may not be useful to you, Harbor freight has these fold-able solar panels that charge via usb @ 5V. I have one of these and they work pretty well. I wouldn't use it to directly charge my phone though unless it was an emergency. Rather I use it to charge battery banks. Mostly due to paranoia and the desire to protect my phone from fluctuating voltage. I'd prefer to kill that cheap battery bank if there's an issue.

Something like this would keep your phone powered for a day or three:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-20000mAh-Portable-Charger-PowerCore/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469133062&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+bank

Or they make little chargers that use 2 AA batteries. Fair warning they get hotter than hell if you use them for a long time.
https://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Instant-Charger-Universal-Cable/dp/B002FU6KF2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1469133429&sr=1-3&keywords=aa+phone+charger

imho something like this makes more sense
http://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Instant-Charger-Lithium-Universal/dp/B002FU6KF2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346872350&sr=1-2&keywords=usb+battery+pack