#10 in Refrigerator thermometers
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Reddit mentions of Easy to Read: Refrigerator Freezer Thermometer Alarm, High & Low Temperature Alarms Settings

Sentiment score: 1
Reddit mentions: 3

We found 3 Reddit mentions of Easy to Read: Refrigerator Freezer Thermometer Alarm, High & Low Temperature Alarms Settings. Here are the top ones.

Easy to Read: Refrigerator Freezer Thermometer Alarm, High & Low Temperature Alarms Settings
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    Features:
  • EASY TO READ: Large LCD Display 5/8” Numbers, Toggle from Indoor Room to Refrigerator / Freezer Temperatures.
  • (2) TWO ALARM SETTINGS: High and Low Temperature Manually Set Alarms
  • TEMPERATURE RANGE: -58 to 158°F (-50 to 70°C) with an Accuracy of +/- 2°F
  • (3) THREE MOUNTING OPTIONS: Magnet, Key Hole or Flip Down Stand
  • FULL 30 DAY MONEY BACK GUARANTEE: If you are not satisfied for *Any Reason*, JUST SEND IT BACK
Specs:
ColorStainless Steel & White
Height2.7 Inches
Length0.62 Inches
Number of items1
Width1.5 Inches

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Found 3 comments on Easy to Read: Refrigerator Freezer Thermometer Alarm, High & Low Temperature Alarms Settings:

u/QuoteMe-Bot · 1 pointr/sousvide

> > I over-analyze everything...but just want to figure out what happened and possibly prevent it from happening again. I might get a UPS.

> I can relate to over-analyzing stuff :) I like your cooling-down test, to at least better understand how long it was off.

> After seeing your original post, I started looking for thermometers that have a low temperature alarm, as opposed to just a high temperature alarm. They exist, but I didn't find anything inexpensive in my quick searching. At least you could get notification overnight if the water temperature dropped below, say, 155F for any reason, giving you a chance to deal with it.

> I just looked some more, found one for $18. The probe isn't waterproof (just water-resistant), but maybe you could put it in a bag, then put it in the water. It has a temperature range up to 158F, and allows high and low temperature alarms:
https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Read-Refrigerator-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01BMNTVQM

> As far as a UPS, it would have to be a rather high-capacity UPS, or you'd need to be cooking in a well-insulated container, for the UPS to provide meaningful runtime (like enough to cover a 1-hour outage or something). I have a Kill-A-Watt, as I recall, my Anova was drawing something in the range of 100W average, at roughly 130F in a covered metal pot sitting in a 60F room. Don't quote me on the draw, I didn't pay super-close attention to the total kWh vs hours of runtime, but it was something around there. A cooler would lose less heat, so the heater would run less, of course.

~ /u/RedOctobyr

u/RedOctobyr · 1 pointr/sousvide

> I over-analyze everything...but just want to figure out what happened and possibly prevent it from happening again. I might get a UPS.

I can relate to over-analyzing stuff :) I like your cooling-down test, to at least better understand how long it was off.

After seeing your original post, I started looking for thermometers that have a low temperature alarm, as opposed to just a high temperature alarm. They exist, but I didn't find anything inexpensive in my quick searching. At least you could get notification overnight if the water temperature dropped below, say, 155F for any reason, giving you a chance to deal with it.

I just looked some more, found one for $18. The probe isn't waterproof (just water-resistant), but maybe you could put it in a bag, then put it in the water. It has a temperature range up to 158F, and allows high and low temperature alarms:
https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Read-Refrigerator-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01BMNTVQM

As far as a UPS, it would have to be a rather high-capacity UPS, or you'd need to be cooking in a well-insulated container, for the UPS to provide meaningful runtime (like enough to cover a 1-hour outage or something). I have a Kill-A-Watt, as I recall, my Anova was drawing something in the range of 100W average, at roughly 130F in a covered metal pot sitting in a 60F room. Don't quote me on the draw, I didn't pay super-close attention to the total kWh vs hours of runtime, but it was something around there. A cooler would lose less heat, so the heater would run less, of course.