#596 in Electronics
Use arrows to jump to the previous/next product

Reddit mentions of Flirc Raspberry Pi 3B Case

Sentiment score: 25
Reddit mentions: 41

We found 41 Reddit mentions of Flirc Raspberry Pi 3B Case. Here are the top ones.

Flirc Raspberry Pi 3B Case
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
or
    Features:
  • The best looking Raspberry Pi case made out of beautiful aluminum
  • All New Manufacturing Process with improved metal quality and design
  • Made for the new Raspberry Pi 3 B+, works with Raspberry Pi 3, 2 and B+ Models
  • GPIO and all the main connectors are easily accessible through the bottom
  • Built in Heat Sink and comes with a thermal pad and 4 screws
Specs:
ColorSilver
Height1.6 Inches
Length0.8 Inches
Weight0.25 Pounds
Width0.44 Inches

idea-bulb Interested in what Redditors like? Check out our Shuffle feature

Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Found 41 comments on Flirc Raspberry Pi 3B Case:

u/Successful_Opinion · 9 pointsr/hardware

https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26

I use this case and recommend it! Direct contact to the case.

u/e39 · 8 pointsr/RetroPie

What you'll need:

u/hairy_testicles · 7 pointsr/raspberry_pi

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07349HT26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_uAtRAbA5QN36D

That is the best case for cooling, and requires no fan. It has a protrusion that goes down, and rest on the cpu, so the whole case is a effectively one big heat sink. Fans will die over time, no matter how good of a fan you get, they all die.

u/atlastheexplorer · 6 pointsr/homelab

This one.

I've bought a handful of other Pi cases in the past and this one is by far the nicest.

u/Yatkuu · 6 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Here's what I used:

Buttons/joystick kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGX76HT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e3u4DbNFYM9PT
Video adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVMWPZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B4u4DbC4ARRDN
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u6u4Db97MWE57
Pi 3b case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07349HT26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v5u4Db1FS3T1H
Audio amp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C1Q1FPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.6u4DbW8KHPC5
Adhesive Velcro (to mount the various items): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKQUS4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4.u4DbNJGANFX
1'1/8 Spade bit:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Daredevil-1-1-8-in-x-6-in-Spade-Bit-DSB1015/203274560

General thoughts on the modding process... I had never done something like this, never used a raspberry pi either. I followed ETA's tutorial, browsed this forum for info and everything went smoothly. I encountered only 2 minor difficulties.
The button/joystick kit had 1 joystick wire that was faulty and thus was impossible to tell from looking at it.. After mounting and connecting everything the stick would not register 1 direction. Thinking the stock was at fault I ended up ordering a second kit. It took some tinkering to eventually narrowing it down to the wire! Drilling the 2 extra holes was rather straightforward but I did not think of how the wires would reach the buttons! I ended up drilling 2 small holes in the bottom of the plastic cover - not a super neat job but it's all hidden anyway.
Bottom line, it's relatively simple but I think any DIY project can have unexpected difficulties.. so be prepared.

Tips for anyone who wants to give this a try.. .
Is it easy? I would say yes. The components are plug and play so it's essentially Ikea furniture mounting level. But.. it does require to do things you likely have never done before so take your time and don't rush. The drilling part does require some minimal manual skills. I wouldn't try drilling through the main board... in particular if your equipment is some lightweight stuff. That main board holding the controls is rather thick, and you would risk damaging the artwork if you mess up. Cutting through the Plexi also seems rather challenging.
Cutting through the thin board placed under the controls however is simple.
One advice, if you plan to put back the black plastic cover that protects the underside of the controls, you need to keep that in mind when you decide to position your extra buttons. If you place them too high, you won't have enough clearance for the hidden part of the buttons due to the presence of the plastic cover. So, either position these lower (as I did) or plan not to use the cover.. it might be possible to cut through the black plastic cover but that sounds like a lot of trouble if you ask me..
Side note, I painted the back panel in black because the back of the cab is a little visible in my setup... It looks pretty good.

The cost...
Well, let's be honest, this is not a cheap project. Sure, if you scored a 75$ cab you're off to a good start but to me the look factor was essential. I personally think the Marvel cab is the best looking one currently available in the A1up lineup for a 2 player setup.
So, 250$ for the cab at Walmart. The Pi, the case, video adapter, SD card... Roughly 200$
Total.. 450$

Conclusion...
I absolutely love this thing... But not for the reasons I initially thought. The gaming part ends up being less important for me than the look. I have it setup in my game room (got a pool table and a second cab) and I find myself just turning the cabs on for the mood more than to play with them. Also, the modded cab with its led buttons looks just gorgeous.

That's it, happy modding everyone!

u/Sadistic_Sponge · 6 pointsr/RetroPie

I haven't heard any word about 4.3 coming out, but updating is very easy from within retropie.

Some stuff from an old post that is applicable here:

Don't waste your money on the heat sinks, they don't do much without a fan. The nintendo case is cool, and it will work for the NES emulation, but it will not cut it for N64, since you'll probably overheat with an overclock. Overclocking is basically required for N64 to run even sorta smooth. Instead, get a better case that can handle heat effectively. I use https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Aluminum-Raspberry-Case-Enclosure/dp/B01H8L4EM8; but others have used a Flirc with great success: https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500310306&sr=1-3&keywords=flirc.

It's worth going for function over form in this scenario.

As for other advice/tricks for setup:

  1. Install this mod to minimize errors where phanton controllers and keyboards end up in the player 1 slot: https://github.com/meleu/RetroPie-joystick-selection/blob/master/README.md

  2. Set up WinSCP and SSH to transfer roms easily: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsRkTlv5rxw

  3. Swag polish:

    Get video previews set up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqIu1whpw_M

    Get slick loading splash screens set up when you start a game: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aXerbx4TpA
u/th3st0rmtr00p3r · 6 pointsr/starcitizen

Walls

u/bobstro · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Air circulation is key. Make sure those heatsinks aren't stuck on with thick adhesive pads that act as insulation rather than conductors. As /u/DMPSTRFT says, the RPi will protect itself by slowing down if it truly overheats. Otherwise, "warm" is not a problem.

You might consider one of the Flirc aluminum cases. Somebody posted some test results here recently on a highly overclocked RPi, and that aluminum case provided stellar cooling.

u/tsoliman · 4 pointsr/RetroPie

I looked it up, it's "Vilros" not "Viros" apparently. No clue if it works and never heard of it before.

For that price you should get the flirc case instead. Kind of a famous case that's proven to work.

u/DrakeFS · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I just built one from parts, do not be intimidated by what "could" go wrong. RetroPie has an amazing community (the Official Forum is a great place to get help and ideas from as well) behind it and a lot documentation. Both of which I did not need to tap. If you can follow the instructions to image the SD card, you should be just fine.

I bought:

u/MiOdd · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I just helped a friend of mine build his own, it's very easy to put together yourself. Here's our component list, that you may find helpful.

Raspberry Pi 3B

Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2

8Bitdo Sn30 Bluetooth Gamepad

SanDisk 32GB Micro SD

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable

NorthPada RPi3 Power Supply

Of course, there are many different cases and controllers you can use, you don't need to buy these specifically but it'll give you a good idea what you need to get started and what it will cost you when all is said and done. This is also assuming you just want something to play on TV. If you are a building a handheld, that's a different beast.

u/omgwtfnon · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I've chosen the Flirc case, looks nice and does a good job with cooling compared to heat sinks. Haven't had the chance of testing it out myself, I need to wait for it to arrive. My source was youtube, so you can check that out if you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499158370&sr=8-2&keywords=flirc+pi+case

u/8Bits1132 · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

The CanaKit ones are usually good as a starting point (unless you don't want to buy the components individually, though as another person said, the power supplies that ship with them aren't the greatest.

If you DO want to buy the components individually, however, you only need to get the board itself, an optional case, and the power supply. Here's what I've seen most people use.

  • Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (around $35 USD. It's the most powerful iteration of the Raspberry Pi. It might fit your needs, as it can play PS1 games pretty well.
  • Official Raspberry Pi Power Supply (5V/2.5A)

    You could also invest in heatsinks or fans if you want to keep the Pi a bit cooler in temperature. Or, you could also buy a Flirc case, which is around $15 USD, which acts as a giant heatsink. It's one of the more popular cases around here, and for good reason. It's very reasonably priced in my opinion, and it does a good job at keeping the Pi nice and cool, so you don't need a fan.

    Speaking of cases, if you want that retro console look, there are some pretty good options, with one of the most well known case makers being Retroflag. They don't come with any form of cooling like heatsinks and fans, so you'll have to provide those separately.

    If you are asking about controllers, you can use both wired USB or wireless Bluetooth controllers as well (though you'll need to have at least a USB controller or a keyboard connected to the Pi for the first part of setting it up which will ask you to configure your controls which work across the RetroPie environment (that includes EmulationStation which is used to launch your games, and RetroArch which powers most of the emulators included with the default RetroPie install).

    You can read the RetroPie documentation for more information on RetroPie itself too.
u/TzaCow · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Ethernet does run cooler.
If you are still interested in a great cooling case, the Flirc Aluminum with built in Heat Sink and Thermal Pad is a great product.
https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511436940&sr=8-2&keywords=pi+aluminum+case

u/SuperScathe · 3 pointsr/Arcade1Up

It isn't difficult, don't get intimidated. You can do this in an evening without any experience. You'll need a Pi, a Pi case, a Pi power adapter, a microSD card, a monitor encoder (if you tell me which model monitor you have, I'll send you a link for the encoder for it (NOT WHICH GAME YOU HAVE -- the model numbers vary even for the same titles -- just take the back panel off and read me the model number, it's in bold white text on a sticker on the back of the monitor)), some USB encoders to plug your buttons and joysticks into the Pi (grab two of these), and two buttons to use for coin/select (you will have to do some very minor drilling into that little black diagonal panel between the kick panel and the control panel to mount these; don't be scared though, even if you mess it up, you can get a piece of 1/8" MDF and paint it black for under $5 to replace it).

For instructions on installing, see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09DQCOr6zQM - just ignore the products he tells you to use, since you'll be using the stock joysticks and buttons and getting just the encoders. The installation for everything else is the same.

u/KenMerritt · 2 pointsr/pihole

I really like the Flirc aluminum case, the case itself acts as a big heatsink.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07349HT26/

u/fiveandcounting · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I have the Flirc gen2 case. It's fairly hefty and doesn't move all that easy.

u/serfbored · 2 pointsr/cade

It is a Flirc case from Amazon

Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2 (New Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07349HT26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kjfNBb6NDKNHT

u/Triquick · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

If you don't want to deal with the noise of a fan the Flirc aluminum case is a amazing deal that really helps with overlocking. It fits over the raspberry pi CPU/GPU/RAM units and turns the whole case into a heat sink while providing a ton of protection to the Raspberry pi.

https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/

u/karmavorous · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Purchase guide? You mean like a list of stuff you need?

You need the bare board, like this, not saying buy this one because the price is a bit high, but just the board like this will suffice. I don't see any reason to get the B+ that just came out, but if it's the same price as a B go ahead. Microcenter has Pi3 B on sale right now for $30. Arrow Electronic often has them for $25-$30 and free overnight shipping on orders over $25.


You need a power supply. A lot of people use phone chargers and that works, but they may not give you a real 2.5a which can lead to more heat and throttling under load. Not sure if that's a problem with Octoprint - I think the bottleneck that limits Octopring performance is elsewhere. I have used this brand of dedicated power supply on several Pi builds and never had a problem. 3a in higher than most chargers. But I normally get a version without the in-line power switch - which seems to be gone from Amazon.

And you need a MicroSD card. Class 10 is preferred, but by no means necessary. And the size of SD card you get will be the size of the library of files you can store on the Raspberry Pi. However, the interface for navigating through a large cache of files through the OctoPrint interface isn't so good, so therefor the size of the card you need may really only be 8GB or less as you'll probably delete files off the card once you print them. 8GB is a crap load of GCode files and scrolling down a list of 10 files is annoying, much less 1GB worth, much much less 6+ GB (on an 8GB card).

And you'll want a case, but you might just want to print one rather than buy one. Cases are really a preference thing. For buyable cases I love C4 Labs acrylic cases.

You might want some heat sinks. Every Pi case I've ever bought (like 7 at this point) came with heat sinks. Here's some over priced copper ones. But I have been running my Octopi for three weeks solid, printing 8-12 hours per day, and I don't have any heat sinks on it. I don't think Octoprint really needs heatsinks, but many people will tell you to get them anyway because cheap insurance and all that. The $16 Flirc case acts as a heatsink itself.

u/VRtinker · 2 pointsr/technology

>ZipaMicro, a popular smart home hub developed by Croatian firm Zipato

Popular? Has anyone ever heard of them? For reference: they say they are used in 20K households in 89 countries (that is about 225 households per country). Good luck finding someone using this device even on a forum to ask for help or able to professionally set it up or service it.

When I search on Amazon I see a bunch of over-priced low-power controllers, IP cams and etc. in cheap-looking cases. Literally you can get a Raspberry Pi 3 or 4 with a decent case (or a kit) for a fraction of the price. What's the point of buying this over a Raspberry Pi?

u/Turn00 · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

This page has everything you would need. Not all of it, just pick the parts you want. I recommend changing out the buttons and joysticks, the ones that come with the cab are not the best, and honestly, who doesn't want fake chrome plated LED light up buttons?! It's also one of the most fun and satisfying parts. The first time you turn it on and it all lights up is golden.

https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AFKYVIUEEUBRADJJRYSJUSZORRXQ/3I55RC3I9N013

I agree with the others. Do a little research. I followed ETAPrime's video. The only difference is I am using computer speakers right now. Everything is pretty straight forward, except for the LCD controller board. Make sure to enter your monitor part number, found on a huge sticker on the back, into amazon to make sure you are buying the correct one for your monitor.

The only other thing i don't see on that page is a Flirc case for a Pi 3B+. Really nice case.

https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/ref=asc_df_B07349HT26/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807187084&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5635420979342911607&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019691&hvtargid=pla-440595737920&psc=1

Have Fun!

u/gendolookin · 2 pointsr/tinkerboard

I don't have any data to verify, but I can only imagine you would have a pretty good speed increase generally. The TB has a 1.8ghz quad core and an GB ethernet. Compared to a rpi 2 with it's 900mhz. Your OS version is more limited. But I will say, when using Debian on the TB the GUI interface is leaps and bounds quicker than even the pi3.

Just make sure you use a heatsink. I use this case [Flirc case](http://www.Flirc.com/ Raspberry Pi Case Gen2 (New Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07349HT26?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) for mine and it uses the entire aluminum case as a heat sink. I really like it.

u/neofactor · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I'm guessing you have the Monoprice Select Mini V2? I'm using the "Pro" model (V3), which I only mention because the issues I run into differ from the V2.

​

Mine seems to have a slightly different extruder but just to be safe, after getting everything set up I printed out the MPSM V2 Improved Extruder from Thingiverse just in case something happened. I would recommend the same, since I hear it breaks often on the MP Mini V2. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756509)

​

I would also recommend getting a raspberry pi and installing Octoprint on it. It lets me print wireless on my printer without issues. Plus I've never had to deal with corrupted files on the SD card or my computer going to sleep or something. You can print out a case for the Pi as well or get this awesome looking one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07349HT26/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

​

I think this video does the best at explaining cura settings but it isn't complete. There are some better ones for the initial setup.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1gRTQqS_W8&lc=z23ovbz5zyf0tjbmwacdp431getygkl0asus1zemmjtw03c010c)

u/lazd · 1 pointr/RetroPie

The FLIRC case is super clean, and it looks nice with one of these buttons installed in it as a soft power switch.

u/interfreak · 1 pointr/RetroPie

It's pretty easy to do. Don't be too concerned about damaging your Pi, it will simply not boot if you put some 'out there' figures in config.txt. If that happens, you can just pop the SD card back in your PC and delete out any lines you've added or change them.

As mentioned however, you'll need to make sure that your Pi has sufficient cooling to deal with the increased temperatures that are a side effect of overclocking. Personally, I use a Flirc Gen 2 case (https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/) and it keeps temps at a reasonable level due to it's impressive passive cooling. I think ETA has done a review on this case as well.

edit here is the review - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4YuteuSEuA&t=1s

I'm also very new to Retropie and have had a ball experimenting with various settings and building an image that it just right for me. :)

u/jijipopo · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I've tried before asking here, no one seems to sell their Pi 3, look for bundles on Amazon, they are relatively cheap (some, not all). The Pi 3 can get hot if you plan to play games on it, I recommend getting this case for it it has no fans but it keeps it cooler than most fans setups, its basically a giant heatsink case, the bad news is that you cant access the GPIO (Great for Retropie and Kodi setup,).

u/saibot76 · 1 pointr/ADSB

I ran into these a while back and have always wanted to try one, so this is what I’m going to try: Flirc Raspberry Pi 3B Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07349HT26?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Or are you meaning my weathertight enclosure?

u/karothacker · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

The new version says Gen2 on it. It makes full contact to the chip, is made differently (better quality - smoother texture), allows easier access to the microSD, and allows users to see the LEDs on the board. I also recommend a different pad if you're going to overclock; I use the Fujipoly Ultra Extreme XR-m Thermal Pad (I use the 1.5 size, but other users have reported using a 1.0).

Order from Amazon @ https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26

Or order from their official site @ https://flirc.tv/raspberry-pi-case-gen2

Order the extra pad @ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJR1ZK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/TheBFD · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Go with the FLIRC case. It acts as a giant heat sink and doesn't have a fan. I overclock the shit out of mine, but have had no heat issues and don't have any fan noise to deal with.

u/Pastoolio91 · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Good to find someone else in my shoes, lol. I was in the exact same position a couple months ago before grabbing a Pi, so I'm not an expert by any means, but I've learned a few things.

As for plug and play kits, I'd avoid the ones with NES/SNES style cases as they have horrible cooling. If you're planning on using it as a RetroPi, you'll definitely need some better cooling. For passive cooling, you'll need something like the FLIRC case, which basically turns the entire case into a giant heatsink (https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=rpi+case&qid=1563297746&s=gateway&sr=8-5) or for active cooling, I'd suggest grabbing a cheap acrylic stack with a small 30mm fan off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rpi+case&ref=nb_sb_noss). Keep in mind that these are Pi 3 B+ cases, and they won't work with the Pi 4 as the USB and ethernet are switched around, plus different HDMI ports.

​

For your first Pi, a kit is nice as it includes heatsinks and a decent power supply. If you want to use RetroPi then having a kit with an SD card that includes NOOBS wont matter, as NOOBS doesn't let you install RetroPi. Also, the cases that come with CanaKit and Abox have terrible cooling if you're running something heavy like RetroPi, so I'd recommend getting these:

Rasbperry Pi 3 B+ Basic Kit: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Power-Supply-Listed/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=raspbery+pi&qid=1563297903&s=gateway&sr=8-8

FLIRC case: https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=rpi+case&qid=1563297746&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Other than that, you'll just need an SD card to flash with RetroPi, maybe a USB stick to transfer ROMs over with, and a controller. 8BitDo make some really solid retro replica controllers so I'd suggest that possibly.

​

As for a gaming PC, you could easily run most ROMS on a low end gaming PC, so if emulation is your main goal then you could easily build a 500-600 PC that would kick ass for ROMS. I mean, my Chromebook can run RetroArch pretty easily, so you don't need a ton of power. It's just that the Pi is a tiny SoC running an ARM chip so it's different than a full fledged x86 PC.

​

The Pi 3 B+ struggles with N64 and PS1 some, so waiting for the Pi 4 to be RetroPi compatible would likely be the cheapest option to get yourself going. I have high hopes for it with regards to the N64 and other systems from that generation.