Reddit mentions of Gocontrol Z-Wave 3-Way Wall Accessory Switch - WT00Z-1

Take a look at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EAY3K5Y/. Does just what you want, and looks very similar to the GE paddle dimmers.

If you haven't already committed to Lutron, you might take a look at Linear/2gig/GoControl's (jeez, they need to get their branding under control) Zwave switch and accessory switch. There's also a dimmer.

The switch or dimmer directly controls the light. The accessory switches don't have an actual switch - they just send wireless commands to the switch to turn off or on. The accessory switches will need power at the location you install them. You'll also need some sort of controller to set up the association between the switch and the accessory switches.

I have all of these on my Smartthings network and they work great.


GoControl WS15Z-1 Z-Wave Non-Dimming Wall Switch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1OQN8Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

2gig WD500Z-1 Z-Wave Wall Dimmer
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1OVFAK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00



When there is no neutral wire...
Cooper Wiring Devices RF9518WS Aspire RF Single-Pole Wireless Light Switch, 8-Amp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SCY8HM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


For 3 way switch...
Linear Z-Wave 3-Way Wall Accessory Switch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAY3K5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

[Go Control virtual 3 way switch sounds like exactly what you want] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EAY3K5Y/ref=asc_df_B00EAY3K5Y5392958). I have several, they control zwave bulbs in end table lights, etc.

So this is what I did in a similar situation.

First I replaced the switch that actually powers the lights with this GoControl switch. This will make it "smart" and you can the control it with accessory switches.

The next thing you will need to do is install the Accessory Switch where you want to be able to control the light from. If you want to still control your outlets youll need to replace the box with a 2 gang box. If you do not want to control your outlets anymore you could simply wire them to power on all the time and replace the old switch with this one. This switch just needs 120v power to it to run.

Once you have the accessory switch in you need to tell it what master switch to control. You do this with an Aeon Minimote.

There may be other ways of doing what you are looking for, but this worked for me. Let me know if you have any follow up questions.

I think you're looking for a Z-Wave Accessory Switch. I'm a noob when it comes to electrical work, so this might need more wires than you have available, but this behaves as you describe (it's powered by mains, and doesn't actually control that line, it sends a signal to another device to operate it.)


The only caveat is that you will have to set up an "association group" for it to work.. Association groups are a Z-Wave specific wizardry where devices communicate directly to each other (instead of through a hub.) It's actually pretty sweet - more reliable, and faster than going through a hub (especially one that goes through the cloud.) To do that, you either need a hub that can set it up (Wink can't,) or you can get the Minimote from Aeotec. Here's a handy instruction guide from the folks that made the switch on how to set it up. Note that the instructions are for a different Z-Wave hub, but the same principles should apply.

It seems like a drag, but if you pull it off, you'll have exactly what you're looking for, and as a bonus, a neat little remote that you can use anywhere else you'd like.

Agreed, a switch would look nicer. In that case, consider installing a wall controller instead of a load switch. Here's a good example: https://www.amazon.com/Linear-Z-Wave-3-Way-Accessory-Switch/dp/B00EAY3K5Y

what you're looking for is a scene controller. However, this is also working for me exactly as you're describing:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAY3K5Y

Ok, after reading your post again... yes you can. This is the kind of switch you want. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAY3K5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

There's just the programming aspect then and all the associated pitfalls.

I've actually done this with a Linear Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAY3K5Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's working okay, but there are times when the switch gets out of sync with the state of the lights. Perhaps I'm just relying on Smartthings and Webcore too much. Perhaps I'll try pairing those Lutron remotes directly.

The closest thing I can find, unless I'm missing something, is something like the Linear WT00Z. However, based on reading the reviews, it doesn't appear to connect directly to something like SmartThings (which would be exactly what I'm seeking), but instead needs an actual switch like the WD500Z as an intermediary, which defeats the purpose of what I'm looking for (I don't want the circuit switched).

I prefer these, and not have to worry about the traveller wires. there are some other brands. http://www.nortekcontrol.com/threeway/

http://smile.amazon.com/Linear-Z-Wave-3-Way-Accessory-Switch/dp/B00EAY3K5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452793239&sr=8-1&keywords=WT00Z

Thanks, but I want something that blends in. I found this, but it appears to be out of stock and only one person is selling it for $130. Usual price was $30. https://www.amazon.com/Linear-Z-Wave-3-Way-Accessory-Switch/dp/B00EAY3K5Y

I have a couple of these accessory switches that I use with SmartThings, and no IFTTT is required to do what you’re talking about.