Reddit mentions of Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo

I never know if posts like these are troll posts or not. I'm assuming that by having to confidence to post a picture of your fish, you've at least browsed through other people's posts and seen the proper conditions that a betta fish should be kept in.


I'm really hoping that either this is a troll post, or that you just have no idea that the conditions you've kept your fish in are borderline inhumane. :/ He has horrible fin rot, and is missing the whole top part of his fins. Before you come back with "but he's been with us for FOUR years, he must be okay!" I can keep a dog in a closet for years with food and water and he'd probably live a long time too. Ever heard about that woman who was kidnapped and kept in confinement for 18 years? A being's conditions won't kill them immediately, but the stresses of their environments will cause them to lead miserable lives.


In case you care about him, he needs a few (super, SUPER easy) things.

• A bigger tank. ASAP. At least 2.5 gallons, but 5 is better and only a couple dollars more at petco. 5 gallon tanks are about $15 at Petco.
  
  
• A heater for that bigger tank. Bettas are tropical fish and they NEED warmer temps. 76-80 degrees. A decent heater (I use the Hydor Theo 25 watt heater) will set you back $18.
  
  
• A filter. You can find many of these for a decent price, but for small tanks I prefer the Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter. These are roughly $20.
  
  
  The total cost of getting your friend an ideal setup is about $53. You'll notice a huge difference in the behavior of your betta, and he'll be much happier. I can't stress this enough; he is not happy, and your friend of 4 years deserves better. This post was NOT made in anger, but rather in concern for you and your fish. Please take this advice, and remember to cycle the tank!
  
  

Beautiful fish, but you said the plants were plastic. If you aren't careful bettas might cut their fins on the plastic plants. I highly reccomend some silk plants, or even better, live ones! Live plants really bring the tank alive.

I have a five gallon tank, and I use [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1462643179&sr=8- 12&keywords=betta+fish+heater) heater. You'll want a way to get the temperature like a floating or suction cup thermometer.

It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...

but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.

It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.

By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.

Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.

Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:

I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.

Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.

From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.

Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.

Turquoise cutie <3 She looks a lot like a betta I had a few years back. Signs of yours being a girl: chubbier shape, shorter fins, egg spot (salt-speck on her belly).

The gender isn't always known, especially on the baby bettas. Someone takes a quick look and decides "boy" or "girl". One of my current ones was labeled "girl" but "her" fins started growing long, and his beard started growing out, and he started getting upset at every little thing...

Now that your question is answered, on to something more important.

This can be a passionate and sometimes hostile environment, but everyone else is spot-on - your fish would be happier in a bigger home. Let me tell you my personal experience. I've kept betta in bowls and I've kept betta in aquariums, and I can tell you that a betta in an aquarium is like an entirely different animal. They get so beautiful and develop so much personality when they're given a better space. A larger, filtered aquarium reduces maintenance for you, too. My two tanks get maybe 15 minute of maintenance each per week, with just one partial water change during the week, and they both stay sparkling clean. /r/plantedtank and /r/nanotank can show you just how much a nicely-kept aquarium can contribute to your home decor as well!

Pet stores will tell you that a quart of water changed once a week is fine, but that's because they can make ten times as many $30 sales of bowl, decor, and fish as they can $80 sales of tank, decor, heater, and fish. Also, they'd love to see you in again in a few month's time to buy another fish. :(

/r/bettafish has a great care sheet with some advice. To start you out with, I have this tank and it's fairly cheap and super sleek. Add an $18 heater from Amazon and transfer the decor over from your present tank and you'll be money. Bigger is better if you can swing it, but if you're on a budget or don't have much room, 3.7 gallons will make a nice studio apartment for your fishy friend. There are store-brand 10 gallon setups that are even cheaper (Walmart's Aqua Culture, Petsmart's Top Fin/Grrreat Choice) and you can often find used ones for cheap or even free if you look around on Craigslist/Offerup/Letgo/etc., go to garage sales, or look at thrift stores.

I recommend this bad boy:

https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hydor+theo&qid=1566856882&s=gateway&sr=8-1

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Heating such a small tank is difficult and you run a lot of risk of over-heating using heaters that aren't adjustable and/or don't have thermostats. This little one should be small enough to fit in the tank, is a reliable good brand, and with the flexibility of being able to adjust accordingly you should be able to get better, more consistent heating. Just make sure you're carefully monitoring the temperature with a reliable thermometer and checking it periodically throughout the day to make sure your heater is working correctly and you have it on just the right setting!

Also get ready for comments about decor, filtration, and upgrading. The recommended minimum on this sub is 5 gallons. I won't get onto you for the size, though if you plan on keeping this tank as his permanent home you will want to consider a few more live plants, popping in a sponge filter, and reading up on the nitrogen cycle if you haven't already. Small tanks like this are tricky and require a lot of upkeep, but it is doable with the right equipment, lots of live plants, and enough knowledge......though if you're a less experienced aquarist you may want to consider an upgrade to something easier to cycle and manage for yourself. Good luck!

5.5 gallon tank from petco - 12 dollars (or if you can go today 10 gallon for 10 dollars plus tax)

Heater - 12 to 15 dollars (I like this one but there is also this one here)

Filter - 13 dollars to 25 dollars (It may need baffled or This one though it's a bit more expensive but I prefer it just remember a filter is just something to push water through it. Also can look into sponge filters)

Substrate - 0 for bare bottom or 10 dollars for some cheap sand at petco This sand to be exact.

Light - 42 dollars This is what I'd buy but you can find cheaper or just do grow lights in little plug ins

I'd keep at least 30 for plants but you can get some cheaper live plants or maybe find some cuttings for free.

Total is 47 dollars for a proper set up not including plants since I don't know what you can do in your area. With my over priced light for your set up it's 89

No problem! All of us here love betta fish, we really want to help.

Treated tapwater will be much cheaper in the long run, because you should be changing out a portion of his water weekly for fresh treated water. I recommend Seachem Prime as a water conditioner, it's the board favourite around here and the good thing about it is that it converts ammonia (produced from fish waste and anything else decomposing in the tank, is toxic to fish) into a harmless form for 24 hours. Since you do not have the Nitrogen cycle established in your tank, this property will be very useful in keeping your fish comfortable while the cycle gets started.

Here is a list of affordable supplies:

Aqueon 10 gal tank, $15. I would highly recommend going for the 10 gallon tank. Aside from the fact that it's the same price as the 2.5 gal so cost is no issue, the water conditions will be far more stable in a larger tank. In a very small tank, it will take only a small amount of ammonia produced before the water becomes toxic for the fish (they are literally swimming in and breathing in their own waste, after all). You have a lot more leeway the bigger your tank is, because the ammonia will be more diluted. A larger tank, once you have it set up and cycled, is a lot less work than a smaller one.

Aqueon Quietflow Filter, $14. I replaced the filter cartridges inside this unit with ceramic filter media (gives nitrifying good bacteria a place to grow for biological filtration) and Seachem Purigen (absorbs organic waste) along with a good chunk of filter floss (way cheaper than buying filter pads) to make it more effective, but it's not strictly necessary if you're on a budget.

Hydor Theo Submersible Glass Heater, $15. This is my favourite heater, I've set up five tanks so far using this model. It heats up well, holds the temperature steady automatically, and it's adjustable, so if you ever need to turn up the temperature (sometimes needed to treat illness), you're all set.

Seachem Prime, $5

API Master Testing Kit, $19. This is extremely helpful to have when setting up your tank, so you can test the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in your water. All three are toxic to fish in high quantities, in order of most to least bad.

Depends on how much you can spend, but I really like this tank for a 3gallon tank. It's attractive, reasonably priced, real glass, and it comes with the filter and a light that is strong enough to grow the lower light easy plants that are popular in betta tanks (anubias, java fern/moss, marimo balls, whatever)

You will also need a heater, unless you live somewhere where the ambient temp where you keep the tank is going to be in the mid to high 70s year round. It is kind of tough to heat a tank as small as 3gallons without overheating, but I have had really good luck with this heater. Its the smallest heater with a thermostat ive found, so it will turn itself off when it reaches the desired temp. Bettas are tropical fish and will do best with their water around 78 to 80 degrees.

Easiest way to change the water is going to be buying a siphon, or just a ~3' long piece of fountain tubing from the hardware store, and using it as a siphon, and then pouring clean, treated water back in with.. whatever thing you wanna use to pour water in your tank :P

It’s a Hydor 25W. I’ve got no problems keeping it at 78F. I keep my house at 70F in the winter and it’s been fine.


Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_JouwGeQvRRrUk

Fluval Spec 3

Best tank I've ever used. Built-in 3-stage filter concealed in the back, plus space for a 25w heater in the same compartment the pump is in.

If you get this tank I reccomend two things:

Get a Fluval Pre-filter sponge to place over the pump-output to diffuse the current

Set the pump to the lowest possible flow (It's still pretty strong so that's why you'll need the pre-filter sponge)

Here's what you'll need:

• 5+ gallon tank with a lid. You can go for one of the nicer-looking (but more expensive ones) or just a plain ol' tank from any pet store. Lids are necessary because bettas are jumpy by nature.
  
  
• Heater. Bettas are tropical fish so you need something that can keep the water at around 78ºF. I'd really reccomend an adjustable one because A) you can do extra fine-tuning and B) you can bump the temperature up if you need to (if the room gets extra cold, or if your betta gets stick, etc). Here's what I use in my 5.5g.
  
  
• Thermometer. Nothing fancy, but you need something so you can know what the temperature is. Get an internal one instead of the ones that stick on the front of the glass (those aren't very accurate). Again, you can find them at any pet store for a couple bucks.
  
  
• Filter. Filters are a must because they house the bacteria that maintain a tank's cycle (preventing your fish from getting poisoned). I would reccomend either reading up on the nitrogen cycle yourself and teaching your friend or giving them a link to a guide, since if they've got the fish in a little container they probably know nothing about it. An air pump + sponge filter is a cheap way to do it but as long as you can get a filter that makes less of a current you're good. Bettas (especially ones with long heavy fins) don't like fast flowing water. I've got this one in my 5.5g. The fact that it's adjustable is super convenient.
  
  
• Substrate. Looks nice, add extra surface area for more bacteria to grow, A+. You can get either gravel or sand. If you want to go cheap, regular pool filter sand or black diamond blasting sand will get you a ton for a few bucks.
  
  
• Decor. Bettas appreciate densely planted/decorated tanks with lots of hiding places. Make sure anything you get isn't rough/sharp enough to snag panty hose, because that means it'll also tear betta fins. That means no coarse decorations, plastic plants, etc. Silk plants are popular, and mugs are an easy way to add a little cave.
  
  
• Gravel vac. When you're doing water changes you need a gravel vacuum to clean down in the gravel. I've found that this one is a great size for my 5.5g. Others I've tried pull out water too fast to get a good cleaning in before you've removed the water you need to. She'll probably need some container to put the water into as well. I just use a plastic 1-gallon pitcher for my 5.5.
  
  
• Test kit. Back to cycling, you need to have a test kit so you can know the pH, concentration of ammonia, concentration of nitrite, and concentration of nitrate in the tank. The API freshwater master test kit is far and away the most popular since it provides all four. Whatever you get, go for the liquid kits rather than the strips because strips aren't very accurate.
  
  
• Betta food, but she probably already has that. Although if she's got flakes it'd be a good idea to move her over to pellets, since flakes make the water a lot dirtier. Also I would reccomend you advise her on how much she should be feeding her betta. They're little piggies and will eat themselves sick if you let them, so people who don't research betta care are prone to overfeeding.
  
  
• Water conditioner. Water conditioner removes chlorine from tap water so fish can live in it. Oftentimes you'll see betta-specific water conditioner at stores, but this is just a scam that preys on folks who don't know better. It's overpriced, comes in tiny bottles, and is watered down. At 1/10 mL per gallon, a single bottle of Prime for instance is way cheaper and will last way longer. I'd reccomend you also get a 1mL syringe for easy dosing. Whenever I want one I pick one up from my school's chemistry stockroom for like 25 cents.

Just purchased this for my Fluval Chi 6 gal: Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9mYiybMJJ8980

Hydor 25w adjustable heater. Heres a link on amazon. I've shopped around and this is the cheapest best small heater for a 5g and below.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-25W-Submersible-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382724963&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+adjustable+heater

looks like they went up , I picked it up for 16 bucks a couple months ago.

As far as equipment goes, get an AquaClear 20 (or 30) filter, an Aqueon (or other reliable brand, I've used Hydor with good luck) ADJUSTABLE heater. A thermometer. The lights you get depends on what you plan on doing with your tank. You're also going to need a water testing kit, a dechlorinator (most people will recommend Seachem Prime).

Is this going to be your first aquarium?

Okay if he can eat them he probably is full when he stops. Don't feed him more if there are some at the bottom. Remove those or they will spike your ammonia and harm him.

Do you have a Petsmart near you? This is a 5.5g with a filter and light for only $30. Here is a heater get the 50W for only $17.

Those are the most important things and only about $50. You will also need a water conditioner if you don't have one already - don't waste money on a betta-specific one, just get something like AquaClear Plus. Anything else isn't critical.

Being removed from the tank (and needing to do 100% water changes) are very stressful on the fish. Normally you would leave the fish in and use a siphon to remove debris/poop from the gravel/substrate and ~20% of the tank water. Then get new water, condition and add. Fish stays in.

TBH fish will jump no matter how they feel. Some species are just notorious jumpers regardless of how the water/environment is for them. My LFS had some wrasse jump twice while I was there to buy corals and me and the employee both were trained for that particular-sounding splash lol. Some people train their bettas to leap for food! But yes, the fish can jump if it's unhappy. But not jumping does NOT mean the fish is happy, and jumping doesn't mean the fish ISN'T happy.

When you expand, this might be a handy tool for you: AquaAdvisor

Right now, if I were you, I would purchase:

HOB Nano filter

Siphon Water changer/gravel vacuum - Carry your aquarium over to a drain. Keep an empty two liter handy to pour freshwater back in.

You cycled your tank, right? If not, you may want to pour some of this in there to help.

Water Test Kit Keep track 2x a week. Small tanks are more difficult since water conditions can go bad quite quickly. Keeping an aquarium is not about fish, it's about chemistry.

Spiral CFL bulb to replace the incandescent you probably have. Incandescents suck and heat your aquarium way too much.

Thermometer Glass, with suction cup.

Light timer Trust me, keeping that light on all day is only going to cause algae, and won't make your plants grow quicker. 6 hours in the beginning, 8 hours max.

Heater 25 watt, keep at 80 degrees. The gradient lines will NOT be accurate.

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Low-tech tank care Study this, and pay attention to the dry fertilization part.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1484007071&sr=1-1&keywords=hydor+theo

Your fishy would love a tank heater. You'll have to do a little research in order to get the right wattage. With a 20 gallon tank, you'd be looking at around 100 or more watts.

My Betta has a coco hut and he really likes to hide in it (make sure that the one you receive is the "correct" size - the first one they sent me was way too small, so I returned it and ordered a new one). Give it a good boil or two before putting it in your tank.

Also, I use Aqueon betta water conditioner and have had good luck with it. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_11?url=search-alias%3Dpets&field-keywords=betta+water+conditioner&sprefix=betta+water%2Cpets%2C120&crid=AGT714XS0TZG

Omega One Betta Buffet pellets are great and so are New Life Spectrum Betta Formula pellets. :)

:D That is the same tank I've got and am looking to Craigslist here soon. There's nothing wrong with it as a starter tank, I just didn't like the difficulty of rounded side when trying to look at Superman. I am also not a fan of the amount of condensation that accumulates on the lid as it gets messy whenever I've tried to take it off.

With heaters, I'd suggest a Hydor or an Eheim as the reviews for both are very favorable, have a better heat transfer, and you can adjust the temperature yourself instead of guessing and hoping your heater is going to set itself to whatever it says on the box.

The filter does circulate quite well but you could shove an additional piece of filter media to slow the flow.

Do you have a thermometer? They shouldn't be that expensive. Get a real one and not a stick-on. http://www.petsmart.com/fish/thermometers/grreat-choice-floating-thermometer-zid36-5203381/cat-36-catid-300077?_t=pfm%3Dcategory

What kind of plants, substrate, and got any other decorations in it? Here's what mine looked like when Superman got his new home (and no, ADF didn't make it). And here's another shot of me showing off to some folks that didn't think I'd have a lot of nail polish.

Take a look at the 25 watt version of this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JLPG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this Heater for my 5.5 gallon. I'm pretty satisfied with it, although it struggled to keep up when we had a cold snap (like 55* Fahrenheit inside) with no house heat turned on. It was easily remedied by wrapping a towel around my tank.

Ha, love the name idea!

I'm not sure if you have read around and are aware of the proper care for a betta (if you have then ignore me) but if you haven't I'll go ahead and say a two gallon bowl isn't the best place for him, and is also another reason for the downvotes. He can live in it but he's not going to thrive. He does need a heater and a filter, if you have those then that is awesome, if not you can even get them as a broke college student.

If I can tell you one thing I'm positively sure of, there is always room for a fish tank. ;)

I'm just going to link you a cheap list of good stuff for little moneys:

Sponge Filter

Air Pump

Airline Tubing I bet you can find this in stores for less. Also less as an add on item.

Check Valve Most likely less at a store.

Heater, Heater 2 Costs a good bit more but I really love these.

Tank, Tank 2 There are many other options to look at.

If you go with the cheapest it will run you just about $58 with prime.

Hope the list gives you something to think about. If you've got any questions at all I'd be more than happy to answer them if I can.

Edit* Added a link.

As long as you don't keep your home really cold, this will probably do: http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-7-5w-Heater-Bettas-Bowls/dp/B006JVQ67K

If you want to be sure its good enough, these are pretty high quality for the cost (probably too large if you have the 2.5gal): http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-25W-Submersible-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422690305&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+heater&pebp=1422690295593&peasin=B0006JLPG8

Tank - https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-2-6-Gallon-White/dp/B009S8NO26/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479225276&sr=8-1&keywords=Fluval+spec+III

Heater - https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479225297&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+25+watt+heater

The tank requires a small amount of modification to make the flow suitable for bettas but these two pieces of equipment provide an excellent set-up for a betta.

Thanks for the reminder to establish the tank first. I'll read up on that. As for the heater, I believe the one I linked to is adjustable? Isn't that the knob on top? I hope I'm not looking at the wrong type. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8?_encoding=UTF8&isInIframe=0&n=2619533011&ref_=dp_proddesc_0&s=pet-supplies&showDetailProductDesc=1#product-description_feature_div

Thank you for your help!

Hi :)

I was going to say good choice on the Marineland tank. I would say depending on what you want to put in there you might want to make some mods.

first with this hidden filtration tank, you will want to set the water pump to the LOWEST setting... because of the footprint water gets pushed around quite quickly stressing fish with long fins out... i.e. betta which is really good with this tank if you can get the water flow just right (they love swimming up and down and playing).

Second if you want shrimp, note the vents in the back of this tank are large enough for them to crawl in... so you might need to improvise and add a 'slab' of filter floss in front of the filter tray that comes with the tank... it gets a tiny bit tricky for the 5 gallon because the tank is quite tall...

finally tall tanks or square tanks do limit your choices of fish to less active nano fish. As with shrimp, nano fish will need to have filter floss added in the compartment behind the return vents. Fish like tetras would not go well in this tank since they like swimming over long distances - prefer long tanks.

Your heater doesn't appear to have the ability to set the temp. Not sure where you are geographically but assuming your room temp is around 20-23c your heater probably set in at about 24 to 25c. Either way a pre-calibrated to 'tropical fish' heater limits your choices in fish. i.e. red cherry shrimp can do ranges between 16c - 27c but seem to thrive in 22c. your heater choice might make them uncomfortable. In addition, while the Marineland instructions say don't put the heater in the back, you can if you know what you are doing - such as pushing the heater down lower and using proper suction cups so it sticks to the wall and doesn't touch anything such as the plastic pieces. The heater I would recommend which is slightly more pricey but comes quite recommended is the Hydor Theo 25w.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hydor-25W-Submersible-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8

Also I would say skip the air pump, since the tank you added has a nozzle that can be angled at a wall in a way which creates
signficant surface tension and proper oxygenation in the tank. the way the glass lid fits creates a pretty nice fit so the pump cables coming out would just detract from the clean looks. If you put the air pump in the back compartment, its pointless since you can't see the 'cool bubbles' and also reduces the amount of volume of water in the back. From a filtration standpoint, you want more water to pass through the back than less for better filtration. Hence I recommended the Hydor since the heater is extremely short for an adjustable thermostat heater.

Hope that helps! A bit long I know.

EDIT: another thing, i noticed you are looking at a 50w heater... that is totally not necessary, unless you keep your room way below 20c and need to keep your at 30c. Also from experience, i find the tank circulates the water fast enough that I find the tank warmer than the thermostat on the heater. It could be a faulty thermostat, but the heater works perfectly fine in my long tanks (matching to my digital thermometer without any issue).

I have the same heater as you do currently, and I plan on switching out to this one whenever I can. I seriously recommend it, as the temp is adjustable so you can decide the temp that you want

I got this same tank for Christmas and plan on making it a shrimp tank. I ordered some eco-complete off of Petco.com, since their shipping option was the cheapest. It was poorly packaged, but arrived quickly and intact. I ordered a Hydor 25 Watt Heater because it'll fit in the back area. One thing to consider if you're planning on putting the heater back there, is making a modification to the flow tube so the heated water circulates more evenly. This also helps keep the flow rate lower so bettas and shrimp don't stress out from the hight current. Also, keep in mind that keeping shrimp and fish together is risky - some bettas won't bother them, but it really depends. My experience with RCS is that if can fit in someone's mouth, it's gonna get eaten (I had 7 RCS in my 20 gallon and they were gone in a week - still not sure if it was my corys or my danios, but it was a shrimpocalypse). I know someone with a Spec III whose betta hunted down 3 ghost shrimp over the course of a few months and they're quite a bit larger than RCS and are also not a bright, enticing red. Hence, why I am now setting up a separate shrimp tank.

When I started up my 20 gallon long, my LFS advised me against adding all but the hardiest of plants (such as anubias nanas) while cycling since supposedly ammonia can melt/burn some plants. I plan on ordering some Christmas Moss and trying to create a wall or carpet using mesh, and I'll be moving some of my anubias and crypts over from my 20g.

I've been thinking about s. repens in this tank as well, since I think it would be great to have a low, carpet type plant in my shrimp tank. But from all that I've read, it sounds like that's a light and CO2 needy plant. Supposedly it will grow in in lower light, but is more likely to grow high and slowly, and won't necessarily produce that beautiful carpet effect. I've never had Frogbit, but looking at it, I would be worried that it could block a lot of light from anything buried in the substrate, and with an already weak light that could be more problematic.

ETA: The 25w heater should be fine for the Spec V, but if you tend to keep your house cold (60F) I would opt for the 50w.

Just wanted to point out that while it's true that a 10g setup would cost roughly the same as a 5g, but sometimes space is a factor.

With that in mind, you can expect to spend roughly $40-60 depending on where and how you're shopping. Currently PetSmart has 5.5g and 10g tanks that come with an LED hood for $30, and PetCo has the $1 per gallon sale (10g minimum) if you're looking for a convenient route.

You should decide if you'd like live plants or not. That will determine many factors for your tank, such as what kind of substrate and lighting. Having a planted aquarium doesn't mean it'll be high maintenance or high cost, and going planted is almost always the better choice over artificial. That being said, a betta can live just fine in a tank with fake decorations.

Tank: $10-30 At my LFS, a 5.5g rimless is about $11. At a place like Petco/Petsmart, you're probably looking at $15-25. You should probably check out your local Craigslist while you're at it, too.

Substrate: $5-20 There's a lot of variety here.
Sand. Gravel. Rocks. Out of these three, I prefer sand. Some plants can still grow in it, it looks nice and is easier to keep clean since fish poop doesn't migrate to the bottom of the tank as much as with gravel/rocks.

If you're tight on a budget but would like lots of plants, check out the Walstad Method, which uses potting soil (organic) capped with sand, uses natural lighting and low/no maintenance plants. This method would probably set your back about $10-15 in substrate and plants.
If you've got a little extra money and want plants, you can buy soil made for aquariums (found in actual fish stores, not Petco/Petsmart), CaribSea (~$20 for 10lbs), etc.
Mix aquatic soil and sand or rocks if you'd like a compromise. For my heavily planted 5g, I used 2 liters of Mr. Aqua soil (~$20) and black sand ($3) to give you an idea.

Filter: $10-15 Sponge filters are dirt cheap and fool-proof, but require an air pump and some tubing. Some people prefer a hang-on-the-back filter; I use this one ($12) and stuff the insides with a sponge and ceramic media (I don't buy the refill cartridges). HOBs like this are advantageous because you can customize the filter media.

Heater: $10-15 Hydor 25w, $15 will do just fine for a 5g. There are cheaper ones, but keep in mind that many cheap heaters aren't adjustable and/or don't have light indicators or built in thermostats. If that's okay with you, then by all means.

Light: $0+ If you're not doing plants, no light is necessary. If you're doing the Walstad method or just have low light plants, you just need natural light or a lamp. If you're growing plants (other than moss/anubia/java), you can use a desk lamp but you'll want to look into getting some daylight (like 6500k) compact fluorescent ($5?) or LEDs. There are special lights that sit or clip on your tank made for growing plants, but they're more expensive at around $40+.


Thermometer: $1-3 Anything more than that's probably a waste.

Decoration/Plants: $5+ Just make sure no decorations have rough or sharp edges. It would be nice to give him a hiding spot, some people just use a small clay pot for plants. If you're going planted, you should check out anubias and java moss/ferns, as they don't require substrate or much lighting to thrive, and can be found anywhere.

Check out /r/AquaSwap and you'll find people selling plants, and you'll often find kind members who will just give you trimmings you can propogate yourself for free if you cover shipping ($5-7, usually), all you need to do is ask. It probably wouldn't be hard to find someone who could sell you equipment and accessories (new or established sponge filters, regular filters, heaters, etc) for a decent price.

This one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=twister_B00ZX0DDS8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Yes. The more plants the better!

If you're looking for suggestions, the best heater ive found is https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Hydor+Submersible+Glass+Aquarium+Heater+-+Original+Theo&qid=1557360095&s=gateway&sr=8-2

You can buy used for $15.

Java moss, java fern, anubias and moss balls are really easy to care for.

The bigger the tank the fewer the water changes.

You can get water tested at the pet store, dont buy water test strips (theyre not accurate), and if you can, the master freshwater test kit is the best.

Betta can live for 7 years with proper care. They are incredibly hardy, and even with poor conditions, they can survive for years, and the pet stores capitalize on this. It is much more profitable to sell you a fish repeatedly like a decor item, with high mark up little tanks than it is to sell fewer fish with good setups.

I have a 5 gallon I’m selling with a light, heater, and HOB filter for $60 so definitely put your zip code! But before I upgraded my tank I had a simple sponge filter with air pump from amazon, a Nicrew light, and driftwood from a local store that cost me $10... in total my first set up was... air pump , sponge filter , Nicrew light (that was $14 when I got it...) and the tank $10, lid $10, driftwood $10= about $8”:) or you can do this HOB heater

Oh and for plants in this sub, there’s tons of people that sell good, tons of plants, good priced! I got TONS OF PLANTS for $20-$30 from bquad. But he isn’t the only one

You have tons of people already going at you with the "just go for the 5 gallon" so I won't bother with that (2.5 gallon is still perfectly acceptable. I have a 1.5 gallon with a happy betta). Anyways, for filter you have a few options. I've used all of these filters as well.

Finnex Pure-5 Power Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4

One of the very best filters for small set ups. A definite feature you'll love is the adjustable flow it has. Make sure to baffle it up if necessary. I personally use this one the most in my tanks.

AZOO Mignon Filter 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

An amazing filter that is very quiet and very powerful. Comes with a pre filter as well so your betta's fin will be super safe. Baffle it up though since it is quite powerful but it's also adjustable.

Fluval Nano Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A455-Nano-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004BZKDZC

This one is for when you do get a 5 gallon or bigger. This one is an amazing filter if you are willing to do some DIY on it. One of the major problems is the impeller is sometimes loose in some units and you'll have to wrap some teflon tape on it. If this bothers you, I'd skip this one but this is seriously a great filter.

Another option for filters is a sponge filter which is always cheap and readily available/easily made.

For heaters, you have a few options as well but I'll just list the ones I usually use. NOTE: I personally buy new heaters every year because the possibility of overheating still exists.

Tetra HT-50: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q

Don't let the 50 watt scare you because this one is probably one of the best and trusted non-adjustable heater. It is non-adjustable though so it will keep it at around 24-26°C.

Hydor Original Theo: https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8

One of the most trusted adjustable heaters. Useful for when you need to raise the temperature of your water. I haven't really used this one as much as the Tetra one but it does the job for me.

XiLong Heater: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Heater-Fish-Tank-Adjustable-25-50-100-200-300-Pretty-Aquarium-Submersible-/261412637763

This one may seem like a sketchy buy but I honestly prefer it over the Hydor Original Theo. I use this for my 5 gallon and it keeps the temperature very very stable. Cheap as hell too.

I would go with a different heater. There is a Hydor model that would be perfect:

Hydor 25W Submersible Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_efEpub1QJHW6J

I have one in mine and it's been very reliable.

Actually, you can get an adjustable heater for small aquariums. The Hydor Theo (Canadian Amazon link!) is what I have in all of my 5g Betta cubes. They're rated for 2-7g tanks and are by far the best purchases I've made for my bettas.

Non-adjustable heaters aren't worth the money. Water temps that fluctuate constantly is stressful for any fish and should be avoided.

The 25w Theo is available at US Walmarts for $19.

I'm still new but this is what I have read:

I'm getting this heater for my betta. Although this heater is cheaper and has some decent reviews; link also lists other simular ones. I'm getting the more expesive one listed in the first link, cause I like that it atcts like a heater and thermomiter.

As far has plants go, if you get faux, make sure they are silk and don't have any sharp or rough edges on them or it could tear your fishes fin. I have read that one good test is to take the plants and decorations and run them through a panty hoe. If it doesn't cuase a run, it's safe. Live ones are better since they help get rid of toxins. Having a 1-3 real Marimo balls are always good. If your new to tank keeping I would search for plants that work well in low light, and can handle brackish water incase you need to do a salt treatment.

Get the API Fresh waster master water tester. Strips are ok, but not uber accurate sometimes and can end up costing more money.

Seen some people say they like the Fluval tanks, just have to adjust the filter so the current isn't too strong for the betta and might have to mod it to get a heater in the filter bit. I currently have a 2 gallon, but eventually would like to get him in a 5 gallon. I would not go bellow 2- 2.5 gallon.

I give my betta fish frozen brine shrimp; just one a day. Some people do the flakes and pellets, but frozen food is better. you have to be careful not to over feed them, or they will bloat and get swim bladder issues. Feeding them a blanched deskind peice of pea helps keep them regular.

Again, i'm still really new to betta fish, but this is what I have read online. The sticky INFO: Betta Care Sheet has a lot of good info to read.

http://m.petsmart.com/h5/hub?id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.petsmart.com%2Ffish%2Faquariums%2Ftop-fin-5.5-gal-aquarium-starter-kit-zid36-17829%2Fcat-36-catid-300065%3Fnull

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006JLPG8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1421727524&sr=1-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003JW8YY0/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1421727616&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&dpPl=1&dpID=41GG306TQ7L&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003U84S3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1421727654&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&dpPl=1&dpID=41XQDTcfiPL&ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1421727666581

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZW9AU6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421727698&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51bvqaKNWgL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

I bought my tank about a month ago and have been letting it run, as per the advice I received here. It is now finally ready to house a fish. I don't want to hurt or stress out my fish at all so I waited til everything was set. Plus my tank decor only just arrived due to the original package getting lost by UPS.

I may buy a betta this weekend if I see "the right one" but I am ok with waiting!

Here is a list of things I got, based on the general reddit consensus. I wished someone had included a list like this so here you go

Fluval 5 gallon (includes filter/light)

Hydor heater (hides right in the side part of the Fluval tank)

Thermometer

Sponge thingy to make the filter stream not too strong for bettas (I zip tied it on)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JLPG8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Might fit. It's one of the smallest heaters I know of.

Here's a heater, wattage is abit high, but adjustable temp which don't work with smaller ones. A bit pricey too, I found this one has better reviews, but you can go for a cheaper 25 watt one, as I haven't found anything smaller to have adjustable temp. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006JLPG8?cache=96fab02d9701f6a90f7c7a080f6bb7ef&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1408216336&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4

Okay, wall-o-text incoming! Here's some things I learned before and during the whole process.

• An adjustable heater is great to have. Having an adjustable heater was super helpful when I got an infestation of ich, since I just raised the temp for a few weeks and totally solved the issue. I got this one, which was the cheapest heater I could find that didn't have a lot of it-malfunctioned-and-killed-my-fish reviews. It does run a little hotter than the adjustment knob reads, but I just tweak it using my thermometer for reference. I'm happy with it and a lot of people on the aquarium subs I visit reccomend it.
  
  
• The filter: When I set up my tank, I wanted a small filter that didn't hang over the back (easier to put a lid on the tank, plus the waterfalls from HOB filters are louder than I wanted for a tank in my bedroom). I ended up getting this one, which has been really nice because 1) the output's adjustable so I can point it anywhere and 2) the flow is adjustable too so I can tweak it for a low flow that's not too much for my betta. It's also quiet!
  
  
• The light I went with was this one in a desk lamp. If you don't get a light that's specifically made for aquarium plants, make sure that it's in the temperature spectrum of 5500K-6500K (6500K is best). You're looking for something that mimics the temperature of sunlight. For brightness, people tend to argue about the best way to measure what you need, but since nobody wants to buy a PAR meter for just a 5g low-tech tank, you're probably okay going by the watts-per-gallon rule (that's actual wattage, not equivalent wattage). Low light would be 1.5-2 WPG, medium light would be 2-3. Mine's 2.6. Then there's how long you keep the light on: my understanding is that when you start a tank, you want to have the photoperiod shorter at first (like 6 hours/day) and then over a few weeks increase it to 8-9 hours/day. You can get a timer for a few bucks at Home Depot.
  
  
• Looking back at your plants, java fern and moss are great beginner plants and I've really enjoyed mine. Amazon sword grows leaves ~20 inches tall, which would be too big for a 5 gallon. Water wisteria also grows that tall, but you can keep trimming it back so it might still work. Anacharis and anubias are some other easy-to-grow plants that have worked for me.
  
  
• I started out using root tabs for fertilizer, but I've still had issues with nutrient deficiency, which in hindsight makes sense because most of my plants aren't super rooty. So recently I bought some liquid fertilizers - you need to take care of both macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, aka NPK) and micronutrients (lots of other trace elements). I bought Flourish to deal with the micros, and then Flourish Nitrogen, Flourish Phosphorus, and Flourish Potassium to take care of the other ones. The smallest bottles are about $8 each, but it's enough to last a long time for a 5g. Too early for me to see how it'll play out, though. Having a medicine dropper has been helpful for measuring both fertilizers and water conditioner.
  
  
• Lots of people also like to use a source of carbon for their aquariums (like Flourish Excel), although I haven't tried that yet. My understanding is that it's helpful for getting plants to grow better, whether or not you also use CO2.
  
  
• For cycling your tank and checking parameters, a liquid test kit is both more accurate and cheaper in the long run, so go with one of those. Having a lot of plants in an aquarium also helps it cycle faster, so that's good.
  
  
• A snail is great for cleaning up algae in your tank, although if you get runaway algae problems it's probably indicating some other issue. You can also try getting shrimp depending on your betta's temperament. For adding any tankmate, you'll be most likely to have success if you introduce it at the same time as your fish (or after majorly rearranging things) so he doesn't get a territory staked out beforehand and act more aggressive.
  
  That's what comes to mind right now, if you have any other questions feel free to ask and I'll try to help you as best as I can. /r/plantedtank is also super helpful for answering questions!

I've got a 50W Hydor Theo, but a 25W version ought to be fine for just three gallons (and five, for that matter, but I had an underpowered 25W heater at first so I decided to step up). I think it's safe to get the 50W version if it's cheaper since it has temperature control (it shuts off once reaching, say, 75°F) but if it fails in the "on" state, it will make betta soup about twice as fast. Physically, it'll fit well. Better, in fact, than in the Spec V. The pump column in that is about 50x50mm, while the pump column in the Spec III is much wider at 50x90mm, and I think height is the same at around 10". And definitely do this mod. The risk is basically zero unless you screw up horribly. It's pretty thick and springy tubing, so any cut you make will be intentional. I used scissors, and I cut up at 45°, down at 45°, and then cleaned up the little rubber burrs. Repeat x3.

Substrate? Yeah, that's your gravel/sand. I'm using some Top Fin stuff I found at Pet Smart, about 6-7 pounds for a ~3/4" layer. Are you keeping plants? If yes, then you might want to ask about good substrate on /r/plantedtank. I think Fluval makes some popular stuff...? Otherwise, get a dark if not black gravel with rounded stones, so nothing important risks getting damaged. The darker the better, as the fish will really stand out against the background. Sand is also an option, but it's a bit more difficult to deal with from what I've heard. I personally have no experience with it.

By the way, when cycling, you'll want your heater to run close to 85°F. Bacteria do alright in heat, and you should use this time to try and calibrate your heater. I have mine set at 72°F or so, but the water is actually 5-7° higher. Just don't crank it so high that you kill them all, though that's at 120°F. Also have the pump running on full blast. That creates more current, which creates more dissolved oxygen, which the bacteria need to convert nitrogen compounds. That's right, you can suffocate bacteria! Don't do it on purpose or your cycle will need to restart.

This is a good one that a lot of people recommend. I've also used cheap chinese ones with no problems though - just get a thermometer too because the dial might not be super accurate. It's useful to have an adjustable one so you can turn the temp up or down to fight illnesses (down for columnaris, up for ich).

He really needs a filter, you can probably find a tiny sponge filter which all it requires to run is an air pump (which you have) and it can still make bubbles for him! Bettas like jungles, I suggested live plants because they help with the water quality. You need to fish-in cycle the tank, the airstone is okay but you really need a filter to circulate the water through. When the tank is cycled the filter will have enough beneficial bacteria to convert ammonia created by fish into nitrite (also toxic) then into a safer chemical nitrate which is less toxic in larger quantities but we want to keep it below 20.

Heaters:

Tetra HT Submersible Aquarium Heater With Electronic Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-FRNDbBWFSS7A


Marina Submersible Heater for Aquarium, Mini, 25-watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFELT92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gJRNDb8MRN195


Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NKRNDbH01Y034

Maybe this filter would fit? It shows dimensions but idk what your tank is like - it would go in the corner -

SLSON Aquarium Sponge Filter Corner Filter Biochemical Cotton Fine Filtering for Fish Tank up to 21 Gallons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PF7T1QZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BMRNDbDEQF4GE

This is also super important-

API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iNRNDbAPV8KBQ

Heres a link to prime:


Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HNRNDbDRHJ1G1

Yeah HOB means 'hang on the back' sorry! They're very popular and efficient and look like this. I would say that they have more of a gentle flow than some other filter types, because the water gently waterfalls down the output (in comparison with filter types with spray bars). If they are too powerful, it's really easy to just stuff a piece of filter media/sponge in the output, which will drastically reduce the flow. Just buy some extra filter wool and you can use it to block up the flow.

The hydor heater I have for my 5g is this kind.

Is this the one you're talking about? https://www.amazon.ca/Hydor-25W-Submersible-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493295511&sr=8-1&keywords=Hydor+theo
Also, thank you for your advice, have a good one! :)

I use a 25w Hydor for my 5g. Been using it for a year and a half on the lowest setting and my tank temp has remained stable and consistent. Temp is usually a couple degrees warmer than the setting because of the little tank so 71F is closer to 75F.

You'll need about a 15 watt heater. It can be more, but that will be the minimum.


Here's one

Ideal betta temp is between 78-80F, so 75 is ok but not ideal. It's also more important to keep a stable temp than to be in ideal range-- so for example if your house is much cooler at night then it will stress him out. An adjustable heater will help stabilize the temp. This 25w is a nice choice in your price range.

Also I don't think temp requirements have anything to do with tank size. Water has the same heat capacity in any quantity.

This is what you're looking for.

Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_HF32wb67MTTVA

Oh so cute. Well all you need is a 5-10 gallon tank. There is a sale going on now with either petsmart or petco where you can get $1 per gallon. After that you need a filter. If you get a 5 or 10 gallon tank you can get a nice hang of the back filter for cheap. I got this one for my betta when I was holding him in a 2.5 gallon before putting him in a bigger tank. It needs an air pump to work though I got a cheapo and it works great and is almost unnoticeable.. Spend a little more on a heater though because I got a cheap betta heater and it broke somehow and the heater itself started melting and I thougth it was going to explode. The one I use now is hyador.

I also got him that leaf hammock for him to sleep on. For food I bought frozen blood worms of the hikari brand. This will last a long long time it comes with a bunch of frozen cubes each cube has like a hundred worms. So I cut up the cube and keep a portion in a medicine cup. I add tank water to the medicine cup and the portion melts and i use a pippete to feed the worms. And you feed it to him 1 - 3 times a week. The rest I got pellets. The brand was omega something in a blue container. I drop those pellets in a small medicine cup squirt with water let em soak for a minute then drop them in his tank.

Also !! You need a water conditioner I use seachem prime. It makes tap water safe for your fish, normally it has chlorine and other chemicals to make it safe for humans but those chemicals will hurt fish. Prime helps make it safe for fish to breathe and prime has a slime coat bonus.

I think an estimate on how much you will spend for him is around 60-70$ and he will last a while with clean water, good food, and good maintenance.

To make feeding and dosing prime easier. Get a cheap plastic pipette and glass dropper. I tend to spill things when measuring by the cap so the glass dropper is easier to dose prime. The plastic pipette is used to soak and feed the pellets and blood worms.

I love this heater! Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rzphAbHYQSV4C

hydor theo, aqueon pro.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484376709&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+theo+25+watt

https://www.bigalspets.com/aqueon-pro-submersible-heaters.html?sku=68181 (smaller but more expensive)


don't bother with that sunsun canister filter, it's even a bit much for a split 10gallon... sunsun hw-603b is the model i believe they're telling you to go with. the cost of that plus the inline heater would be annoying cost-wise..

>
I'm particularly interested in Red Cherry Shrimp. But when I look to see how many I should put in, there are about 200 different answers. Can anyone give me a specific range of how many I should put in?

Do NOT put 10 shrimp in there. Put maybe 3-4... make sure you get a mix of males and females, any decent fish store guy should be able to sex them. Get 2 males and 2 femals, they will breed like MAD. In about 2-3 months, you'll get 20+ shrimp in there. One clutch of eggs from one female will get you around 10 shrimp. After releasing the eggs, they will be ready to breed again in approximately 1 month. You'll notice that as your tank gets crowded, the shrimp will stop growing to full size, you can try and sell them for a buck or two.

>I'll be going to college soon. Obviously I'm not planning on bringing Shrimp on a plane. But would a 4-5 hour car ride be too much stress? If thats the case I'd just leave them at home and give my brother instructions on how to take care of them.

A car ride is fine, put them in an opaque container with a bit of moss for them to cling onto. Remember, these dudes come (usually) from asia on a plane.

>Are there any specific heaters you can recommend me? I'm going to school where it is cold and room heating is not really a sure thing so I'd like to be able to ensure the shrimp are well heated

Cherry shrimp are VERY adaptable. If you're comfortable, the shrimp should be comfortable. What you're after is stability in temperature. If the room temp fluctuates a lot, get a heater. If you have a Fluval Spec (a very popular 2.5gal tank), then this fits right into the water pump compartment.