Reddit mentions of Inkbird ITC-306T Pre-Wired Electronic Heating Thermostat Temperature Controller and 24 Hours Digital Day & Night Cycle Timer Controller for Seed Germination Reptiles Hatching

I've been researching this and I've come to the conclusion that EVERY SINGLE AVAILABLE HEATER has the problem where it can get stuck "on" and boil your fish. Just look at Amazon reviews. It's rare but it happens with every one.

So for my new tank I'm getting a separate temperature controller. The heater will plug into it, and it has its own temperature probe, and if the heater gets stuck on then the controller will still regulate the temperature. this one seems to be good, I'm sure there are others.

I just ordered an Eheim Jager heater. I've had nothing but good luck with these, but check the reviews again -- someone has had one nuke a tank. So better safe than sorry, spend $30 and get a controller.

Also, get a low-wattage heater if you can get away with it (2-3 watts per gallon.) Whether that works depends on the climate control in your house. Some people recommend two half-wattage heaters so that if one of them freaks out it isn't powerful enough to hurt much.

While the may be refrigerators that can maintain the temps you're going to need out of the box, the correct solution is to use an inkbird with any fridge/freezer. No handyman skills needed.

Oh absolutely. Most of the time I am making it for me and the wife to share so I dilute it more then I used to.

I heat 400 ml of everclear in a crockpot with a high accuracy temp controller added to it. here is the controller that I use. I set the temp to 160F and let the decarbed weed soak for most of the day, typically 6-8 hours. The temp controller holds to within +-1.5 degree when the crock pot is set to warm, so I just check on it about once an hour and give it a quick stirring.

After that I strain it through coffee filters a couple of times and reuse the everclear bottle to store it. I will give it a day or two to settle and then strain again. Once the bottle is free of particulates I do a test dose of 2ml and add more everclear to get it about where we like it. This typically makes between 500-750 ml. We then mix it into our drinks measuring with a micropipette. The wife will drop about 1-1.2 ml, I use around 2.5-3 ml. I like to float it on top of a vodka sprite to get my evening started.

For strength reference, I am a frequent smoker but not an all day toker. A good friend who is an all day toker will typically put a full teaspoon (5ml) in his hot tea when he wants to relax. 5ml puts me in orbit.


Do keep in mind that the strength of your tink will depend a lot on the quality of your weed. Living in a non legal state my batches vary a fair amount prior to adding more of the everclear. This is why I ALWAYS personally test each batch and adjust before I share with anyone.

Good luck, and don't hesitate to hit me up if you have questions. I am by no means an expert, but I have never had any complaints from anyone I have shared it with.

Heat mats don't heat air, only surfaces, and should never be used without a thermostat. You should be measuring surface temperature at the hottest surface the snake can reach (the bottom of the cage) using an IR temperature gun, and for a corn snake, it should read 85-87. You should then put a thin layer of substrate over it, as they don't heat through substrate. No heat source should be used without a thermostat. This is vital, because unregulated heat mats can lead to burns. They can easily reach 120+ in room temperatures in the normal range.

The Inkbird ITC-306T is my choice for a cheap thermostat. You can get much better ones for more money, but that one is sufficient.

I highly recommend unplugging the heat mat until you get this straightened out. It will be fine in room temperatures for a while, just don't feed it until you have everything settled.

You mean something like this? https://smile.amazon.com/Inkbird-Electronic-Temperature-Germination-Controlling/dp/B01486LZ50/ref=pd_ybh_a_20?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1S3A6MQNWBD7HATW0MCY

I just went through this with by 12”x12”x18” gecko tank. There is so little real estate on the screen top that I had to get kinda creative. Forgive the pink foam insulation on the sides and ignore the gauge outside the tank (just monitoring my room temp), it’s an ugly winter setup but it helps keep the heat in! So, in my the hood, which can only hold one bulb, I have a Jungle Dawn LED, same with the free floating one hanging from the left side of the tank. The one in the clamp lamp (attached to a square dowel rod sticking up at the back) is a 50W ceramic heat emitter. I use an Inkbird thermostat that allows me to set two temperature windows for different times of day and a degree differential. So in the day time, it keeps the temps between 74-76 (2 degree differential meaning it hits 76 then turns off the lamp and when it hits 74 it turns it back on) and night between 68-70. This achieves a good temp gradient for me, the bottom of the tank is typically 72-73, middle (where I have the probe) is 74-76, top usually has a nice little hotspot on his branch around 78 during the day. Ceramic heat emitters (or really any heat bulb I would imagine) can majorly dry out your tank though so keep an eye on your humidity levels. An auto misting system would probably help a lot.

If you have an older fashioned slow cooker, one that has a knob that turns it on and not just buttons. You can use one of these to monitor the temp and it will turn the cooker on when it gets too cold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01486LZ50/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it to keep my fish tank a certain temp, so it's definitely waterproof.

Sorry for the late response. Their are two versions, the 306 model and the 308 model. The 308 model has the ability to control a fan or chiller if it gets too hot and the 306 doesn’t - so it just turns the heater off if it gets too warm.

Inkbird ITC-306T Pre-Wired Electronic Heating Thermostat Temperature Controller and Digital Timer Controller for Aquarium, Seed Germination, Reptiles, Hatching ect, Without Cooling Controlling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01486LZ50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cGVVCbSZA8C0W

Inkbird ITC-308 Max.1200W Heater, Cool Device Temperature Controller, Carboy, Homebrew, Fermenter, Greenhouse Terrarium Temp. Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lEVVCb1KF4RSS

How about the Inkbird 306T DAY and night temperature controller, only for heating.
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Electronic-Temperature-Germination-Controlling/dp/B01486LZ50/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498898758&sr=8-1&keywords=B01486LZ50

Inkbird is a good brand. There are different types. Some have two outlets for heating unit and cooling unit. Here is one for heating... It allows for up to two heating units. Inkbird ITC-306T Pre-wired Electronic Heating Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01486LZ50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rRo0BbNEVCSGE

you need thermostats for anything that produces heat as it prevents malfunctions that can injure your geckohttps://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Electronic-Temperature-Germination-Controlling/dp/B01486LZ50 this is a good, brand that is reasonably priced.
note: thermostats dont come with the heating element its something you plug the heater into.

I've got one. I like it a lot. You definitely have to be aware of some of it's pit falls and plan accordingly. (In particular: making sure the thing doesn't leak, unscrewing the collection ball without unscrewing the valve from the tank, using a "S" style airlock instead of a three-piece style to prevent suck back when changing out the collection ball or bottling/kegging, and not using recipes that have tons of trub or hops.) If you know those pitfalls and take steps to avoid them, then the fast fermenter is really pretty awesome. The best way I've found to prevent leaks is to use the included teflon tape, and then use keg lube on all the joints. It is super easy to clean because of the wide opening on top. I clean mine right after use, I haven't really noticed any lingering smells. As for temp control - I sewed up a jacket for it with heating wires and a water tube in it. kinda similar to this system. A temp controller monitors the temp and turns the heat on, or turns a water pump on to recirculate ice water from a cooler. The thing comes with a wall mount bracket, I built a stand for mine using 2x4's and the wall mount bracket.

All in all- if you know about the pitfalls and how to avoid them, the thing actually makes your life a lot simpler and easier. It allows you to do a secondary fermentation without having to rack to a second fermentor(thus avoiding all the work of sanitizing all that extra equipment). It allows you to harvest yeast. And bottling/Kegging is a breeze.

Inkbird is a popular brand when it comes to thermostats. I'd set the differential to 1 degree, so the temperature doesn't fluctuate too much.

I believe this model is one. I have to admit that I don't use them (I made the switch from Jumpstarts to Herpstats and haven't looked back), but it seems the consensus these days is that Inkbird is more reliable than Jumpstart.

I think the aqueon 20G long tanks are good to start. Only $20 during the $1/gallon sale. I would also want a heater, preferably an adjustable one, like the fluval m series (get the 100 watt or 2 50 watt ones in case one breaks do the tank doesn’t freeze or overheat too fast) a good thermostat is this one. A good temp controller (extra level of safety) is this one.

Edit: the type of stand doesn’t matter, just as long as the entirety of the tank is supported and the stand is sturdy enough to hold it.

Okay I'm waaay late to the party, but here is what you can do. Buy some heat cord. Here is one by exo-terra

You just use electrical tape and make a zig-zag pattern on half of the bottom of the tank. Only go one side or the other, so if it gets too warm on one side, your frogs can move to the other side. I also would get this so you can set a desired temp and it will run the tape until it hits your target temp, and doesn't end up superheating your viv. You can also hook a small AC powered computer fan to the cooling side, so it will automatically maintain your desired temp, up or down. Just plug the fan to the cooling side, the heat cable to the heating side and presto.

I have one of these inkbirds on my 125g turtle tank because coming home to turtle soup would be traumatic. Highly recommend, and I want to add them to my smaller planted tanks as well.

Plug and plat WiFi thermostats (and WiFi everything) are out there now and pretty affordable. If you're into that.

Also, have you looked at inline heaters on a canister filter?