#975 in Kitchen & dining accessories
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Reddit mentions of John Boos Block BWCB Butcher Block Board Cream, 5 Ounce
Sentiment score: 4
Reddit mentions: 7
We found 7 Reddit mentions of John Boos Block BWCB Butcher Block Board Cream, 5 Ounce. Here are the top ones.
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- Boos Board Cream is designed to replenish the moisture lost from natural wood over time and from repeated washings. It is designed to be "Step 2" in caring for wood cutting boards, butcher blocks, bowls, tabletops, countertops or utensils. ("Step 1" is John Boos Mystery Oil, sold separately on Amazon)
- This tube has 5 fl oz/148 mL capacity
- John Boos Block Board cream is a thick and silky cream made from natural unbleached beeswax and food grade mineral oil. This all natural formula penetrates deeply into the grains of the wood, leaves a silky wax barrier and locks moisture in
- Simple to use: spread evenly over desired surface; let cream soak in (preferably overnight, wipe off any excess remaining)
- NSF Certified (National Sanitation Foundation), and safe for use on food preparation surfaces
- Proudly Made in the USA
Features:
Specs:
| Color | Single Tube |
| Height | 6 Inches |
| Length | 3 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Size | 5 Ounce |
| Weight | 0.3527396192 Pounds |
| Width | 1.88 Inches |
Judging by how dry your cutting board looks it was only a matter of time before it cracked like that. Try to keep your next one well conditioned so this doesn't happen again. Avoid running it through the dishwasher as that will quickly destroy it.
We have that island. It's made three moves (one cross country) and is still solid as the day I assembled it. I did use glue in all the wood-to-wood joints, which I find helps their stuff immensely.
For the top, use a small random orbital sander (I use 240 grit, then 400; you just want to knock down any raised grain, really) on it once a year. You can definitely sand it by hand, too, but if you have the tools, use it; it will save a good bit of time. Wipe down the top with a lightly misted cloth, let it dry, and smear this stuff on it: https://www.amazon.com/John-Boos-Butcher-Block-Board/dp/B002HDT9FK Don't be afraid to put it on slightly heavy, and just use your hands to smear it in.
After it's had a few minutes to soak in, get a bunch of paper towels and wipe all the excess off, and then clean ones to "polish" it until you can't wipe up any more of the wax. You can just reapply a thin coat of the wax once every few months; I do it every 4 or so months, but we don't use ours that much lately because of a kitchen remodel (no longer need the space). If you use this method, it will stay water resistant for a long time (increasing every time you do it. Sanding to 400 also makes it super smooth to the touch.
/u/sweetbabygreen, ^ in case you decide to get this, or another IKEA butcher block island.
I'd go with your epoxy idea to fill the cracks, and flood the top as well to provide an even surface. It will be glossy, so make sure that's what you want. Looking at a high gloss surface for years doesn't suit everyone.
http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com/
Regarding the wax idea, it wouldn't be needed over the top of an epoxy. Generally wax finishes for cooking surfaces are a blend of waxes and oils and are meant as a single step finish that you reapply over time with wear.
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/understanding-oil-wax-finishes/
http://www.amazon.com/John-Boos-Butcher-Block-Board/dp/B002HDT9FK
Honestly, if this was my project, I would use a different type of wood for the kitchen application. Just because I don't prefer the bar top gloss look - completely a personal preference. I've done it before using 6 coats of high gloss poly for a client, and that didn't come close to filling all the cracks.
http://mcnairwoodworks.com/post/135712865805/kitchen-table-reclaimed-oak-polyurethane
That's pretty thin. For that one maybe a scrub with a 1/4 cup bleach and a gallon warm water and scrub it with a brush. If it's that thin and rotted to the center it may be toast.
Once you scrub it with bleach water real well rinse very well and towel dry.
Rub some everclear or if you don't have that cheap vodka. Let the board dry for an hour. If the surface is rough, hand sand it with a rubber block with 120 and 220. If it's really rough and gouged out you may need an electric orbital sander and some 80 grit to start.
Let's hope the board isn't warped.
Wipe down with alcohol again with paper towels to clean and let dry.
Slather the whole thing in this kind of cream
Set on foil and put in oven at 200 F with door cracked open for 30 mins.
Let it cool and go over it again with the beeswax cream and let it sit overnight. Wipe it off in the morning and see how it looks.
Use mineral oil or a mineral oil/beeswax mix that you can either make yourself (there are many "spoon butter" recipes but the one I use is 50% mineral oil and 50% beeswax) or you can buy cutting board cream which is usually the same thing. I use both mineral oil and the mix, applying the mineral oil first and letting it sit for a good thirty minutes or so before rubbing it in and then letting it sit for about six hours to set. Then I apply the spoon butter and let that sit for a while before rubbing in and letting it set. Sometimes I apply the cream more than once so I can develop a nice protective wax coating on the wood, which will last for at least a year.
This stuff should be great for the MFLB. I plan on trying it once I run out of my homemade stuff. https://www.amazon.com/John-Boos-Butcher-Block-Board/dp/B002HDT9FK
Edited for clarity purposes
This stuff is fantastic. I wipe it on thick, let it sit overnight and then rub/polish with a clean cloth the next day. Great sheen, no oily feeling, cheap, and food grade.
https://www.amazon.com/John-Boos-Butcher-Block-Board/dp/B002HDT9FK
My personal choice:
Boos Butcher Block Board Cream