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Reddit mentions of Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W, Tip Size 5.52.5mm for LCD Monitor, LCD TV, 5050 3528 5630 LED Strip Light, Tape Light, Rope Light, Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, Security Camera

Sentiment score: 19
Reddit mentions: 54

We found 54 Reddit mentions of Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W, Tip Size 5.52.5mm for LCD Monitor, LCD TV, 5050 3528 5630 LED Strip Light, Tape Light, Rope Light, Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, Security Camera. Here are the top ones.

Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W, Tip Size 5.52.5mm for LCD Monitor, LCD TV, 5050 3528 5630 LED Strip Light, Tape Light, Rope Light, Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, Security Camera
Buying options
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    Features:
  • Kastar AC Adapter 100% Guarantee to work as original LCD adapter, manufactured at the highest quality standards for ultimate reliability.
  • Power Input: AC110-240V Worldwide Input Voltage, Please verify carefully that the DC Output (12V 6A) and connector Tip size (in the pictures) match your original adapter before purchasing.
  • Charge with Ultra reliability prevents your LCD Monitor, TV or LED strip lights from overcharging, short circuit, and electronic shock; High energy efficiency - friendly to the environment.
  • Kastar AC Adapter perfect replacement for your original LCD Monitor, LCD TV AC adapter and LED strip lights, All Items Include 30-day Money Back and 18-Month Manufacturer Warranty - We Value Your Satisfaction.
  • Package Includes: 1 x Kastar AC Adapter, 1 x Connector, 1 x 3-Prong Extended Power Cord, 1 x Kastar Feedback Card, 1 x Retail Package.
Specs:
Color2 pins
Height0.393700787 Inches
Length5.9842519624 Inches
Size12V, 6A 72W
Weight0.44 Pounds
Width8.2 Inches

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Found 54 comments on Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W, Tip Size 5.52.5mm for LCD Monitor, LCD TV, 5050 3528 5630 LED Strip Light, Tape Light, Rope Light, Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, Security Camera:

u/quickwrx · 98 pointsr/DIY

The fans run on 12V and likely don't use more than 12-24W each. You could use a cheapo power brick.

u/DrHELLvetica · 21 pointsr/homelab

I have that same amp. I find that upgrading the power supply to a nicer 3 prong model, like the one linked below, will eliminate all noise and static at higher volumes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Abcdqfr · 17 pointsr/oculus

I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.

Edit:

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter

u/Raider1284 · 8 pointsr/Multicopter

I almost always recommend the http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18066__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_Accessories_US_Warehouse_.html

same 50W as the B6 charger but this one can handle 6A. It doesnt come with a power supply though so you will need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Power-Supply-LCD-Monitor/dp/B003TUMDWG/ to make it all work.

u/kent1146 · 7 pointsr/vaporents

Model IH-005. The "Russian doll" Portable Dynavap Induction Heater.

​

Purpose: The purpose of this project is to create a design for a Dynavap Induction Heater that fit inside of a plastic 16oz coffee cup. Additionally, this design allows this Dynavap Induction Heater to be replicated using off-the-shelf parts and commonly available tools.

​

Design: The design was intended to improve upon DIH-004 (link), which required the use of a custom chassis to align the internal parts correctly. DIH-005 incorporates a "sleeve" design (like a Russian doll) to align internal parts and provide a mounting platform for the induction heater power supply unit.

​

Features:

  • Can be built using off-the-shelf parts and commonly available tools.
  • Portable (battery operated)
  • Stealthy (plastic 16oz coffee cup)
  • Can be used one-handed
  • 3-way toggle switch to run via internal rechargeable batteries; via 12V DC input; or off.
  • 11.1v internal rechargeable battery, constructed from standard 3.7v 18650 lithium cells. Integrated battery management system (BMS) with balanced charging
  • Blue status LED to indicate when running on battery power; green LED on lid lights up when induction heater is active.
  • Sweet-looking momentary push button on cap.
  • (optional) Additional Arduino momentary push button on cap (index finger operation)
  • Move DC 12V input jack and main power switch to cap. Easier build process, easier dis/re-assembly of unit)
  • A little bit of glass tube to pop out on the top, just because I think it looks cool.

    Parts:

    Parts List


  • (O) = Optional; (R) = Required
  • (R) Container: Plastic 16oz coffee cup ($8)
  • (R) Heating: Induction Heater power supply & coil ($13)
  • (R) Glass Stem: Cloupor Cloutank M3 Pyrex Glass($4)
  • (R) Power Delivery: MOSFET trigger module 400W / 15A ($7) <-- you can find this for $1 on eBay; but delivery takes 1 month.
  • (R) Battery Cells: Samsung 25R 20A 2500mAh 18650 batteries 3-pack ($19)
  • (R) Battery Management System (BMS): HX-3S-FL25A ($10). This is a 3S (3-series) battery management system with balanced charging. You MUST buy a BMS with balanced charging if you intend for the battery pack to be rechargeable inside the induction heater unit.
  • (R) Plastic Food Container: Look for 4oz round plastic food containers, with the correct dimensions (see diagrams). You want a container that can fit inside the 16oz plastic coffee cup. Try something like this. You can usually find a similar item in the food container section of a local Walmart, Target, or grocery store. Be prepared to use a saw and dremel to shave it down to the correct size.
  • (R) DC Input jack: DC Input jack 5.5mm x 2.1mm, 15 pack ($9)
  • (R) Switch (operating on/off): Momentary push button switch ($9) <-- Look for any switch that is single-pole single-throw momentary switch. Voltage and current rating doesn't really matter. If you choose to get a switch with an LED indicator on it, you can forego the green LED on the cap.
  • (R) Power Supply Unit: Kastar 12V 6A 72W Power Supply ($10)
  • (R) Switch (main power, both DC and batteries): Model 500SSP3S1M1REB. SPDT On/Off/On slide switch. ($4)
  • (O) LEDs: A bunch of multi-colored LEDs ($10).
  • (O) Index-finger switch: Arduino 6x6x6 tactile push button switch ($6)

    Miscellaneous parts:


  • Electrical wire
  • Electrical tape
  • 2-pin and 4-pin electrical connector plugs
  • Heat shrink tube
  • Hot glue
  • Sandpaper
  • Tools used: Screwdriver | wire stripper | needle-nose pliers | jigsaw (hacksaw if you don't have one) | dremel/rotary tool | soldering iron | drill | drill bits and spade bits
u/t3duard0 · 6 pointsr/vaporents

Alright, so here's the heater, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C71XKZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8dF8AbWZFK127 And here's the power supply I'm using. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PfF8AbGCHFMGV You're gonna want a 12volt 10 amp rated switch, the supply goes to 6. It's worth the 20 bucks, totally changed the vapcap

u/Niblnabl · 5 pointsr/Multicopter
  1. Turnigy Accucel 6 charger


  2. power supply with correct polarity and fitting connector (not included with charger)


  3. Micro Losi parallel charing harness (looks like serial, but it's for parallel charging)


  4. female JST to 4mm banana plug

    and while all of this is on the way, read about parallel charging because LiPo batteries can and will burn your house down if you are careless.

    DO NOT have batteries connected without it plugged into your charger. If the banana plugs touch and short the batteries, you will have problems. You will want to unplug the JST connectors instead, because it is much safer.

    Learn about C ratings, parallel charging and safe lipo storage.

    In a parallel configuration you want your charger to think you're charging a single cell lipo with the combined capacity of all of the batteries. For your 1C charge rate: 240*5=1200mAh/1000=1.2A, so you would select 1.2A and leave the default 3.7v(1S) configuration.

    You could also purchase a serial balance harness for those situations where the voltages of the batteries aren't close enough.

    This was a really rough write up, and I may edit it a bit. But it's 5 AM and I just wanted to spit it out.

    Grrr, I rattled off a bunch of information and the edits didn't take.
u/bedintruder · 3 pointsr/gaming

If you are looking for something longer, there are these as well

16ft RGB LED strip - $14

And add one of these to plug into your wall...

Power Supply - $7

u/BillDaCatt · 3 pointsr/PrintrBot

First off, using an ATX power supply is not a mod. That is the original intended power supply for the Printrboard. There is a socket for the six-pin video card power plug right on the board. In fact, the barrel socket power port is just a jumper to that socket and must be unplugged to upgrade to an ATX power supply.

Some ATX power supplies do require a short bit of wire running from the green wire on the large connector to any black wire on the connector before they will turn on, but that isn't scary, is completely reversible, and isn't even required on all power supplies. You can buy a premade jumper for precisely that purpose. Some ATX power supplies even include the jumper connector.

Now to answer your original question: You are looking for a 12 volt power supply with an ampere rating of 6 amps or more and a 2.1mm X 5.5mm, center positive, barrel style plug. Something like this one should work for you.

Let me be clear in why I prefer the ATX power supply. The ATX power supply is SAFER than the smaller barrel plug power supply. If I was going to run my Printrbot and leave the house for a while, I would feel much better using the ATX power supply. For fire safety, the ATX power supply is the better choice. Sure, the wiring harness looks a bit like an octopus, but a few zip-ties or velcro wraps will tame that beast.

u/DesolationRobot · 3 pointsr/woodworking

No, just a few simple parts.

Tape

Power Supply

Connectors (Technically optional, you can solder the cut ends of the tape. But this is much easier.

Magnetic Switch

Dimmer (Optional)

You'll also need basic wire nuts and spare wire.

I had 3/4" thick shelves with 1 1/4" MDF trim fronstpieces. Then I cut a small 45-degree piece to fit hidden behind the front trim. The tape then goes on that 45-degree piece so it's pointing down and back. I hope that makes sense.

u/42N71W · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

use this or something similar: https://www.amazon.com/LCD-AC-Adapter-3-Prong-Power/dp/B003TUMDWG/

it won't get you the maximum possible cooling power since it'll be 12v instead of 14.5v, but if you really need 14.5v performance you should probably just be adding more peltier modules.

ignore the advice about full wave rectifiers. you don't want to be running your temperature controller on a non-isolated dc supply. also note that 12v power supplies are not the same thing as 12v battery chargers.

furthermore, your schematic seems to have neutral attached to ground. that is probably not advisable. hopefully your 220v powered temperature regulator has separate neutral and ground lines.

u/Who_GNU · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have used and designed several power supplies, so I should have somewhat of an idea in how noisy they are.

Also, if by ultra-cheap you mean the sub $1 supplies with free shipping from China, then yeah, they'll be crap. I've seen flyback switchers with no feedback; they only output the stated voltage when you drew the stated current.

On the other hand, if they are the supplies that came with the devices, then barring rare circumstances, they're fine. Good low-current supplies are inexpensive, because the components are inexpensive. I could build a 1-amp offline switcher with a PCB bill of materials around $1, so it is possible to get a complete assembled unit for around $2, wholesale. They aren't too noisy, because the integrated controllers keep the feedback loops tight.

A high-current switching supply will have discreet components with larger high-current loops, and there is more current going through them, so there is more phase delay in the feedback, making more ripple. The current-carrying components are also often less efficient when they are designed to catty a high current. This can be mitigated by running multiple synchronized lower-current switching circuits, like most PC motherboards have, but the increased cost and complexity is very rare on bench-top supplies. Running a switching bench-top supply well below its maximum current can also put it in discontinuous mode, which will make it really noisy.

A high-current linear supply is going to be noisy with all but the lowest current draw, because 30% of the power it outputs is stored in a capacitor, so it will have ridiculous amounts of noise at 120 Hz.

If you have a really high-current linear bench-top supply replacing a handful of walll-mount adapters, then it could be lower noise, but you are talking a $100+ supply to replace $10 worth of walll-mount adapters. It will also draw much more power and generate more heat.

If you want to trunk all of your 12 VDC wall adapters into one, instead of a bench-top supply, I recommend getting a 12 V laptop/monitor adapter like this. It's essentially the same thing as the wall-mount adapter, but big enough for the multiple loads.

u/TheSonicRetard · 3 pointsr/oculus

Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P

I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.

The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.

EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:


AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_VjzVtb1MV70BA

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=asc_df_B0070Z87YO3169620?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&tag=pgmp-401-100-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B0070Z87YO

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tlzVtb1TKD73K?tag=viglink20241-20

u/IntHatBar · 2 pointsr/malelivingspace

Note, You'll also need a 12v power supply like this... http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG

u/ILikeBigAZ · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

I am hardly an expert, but I have been researching this too. The cheapest DIY option I have found are the $5 light strips from Hong Kong, the 5630 SMD LEDs, These need to be powered with 72W power supplies, that sell on Amazon for about $8.

u/SuperMar1o · 2 pointsr/oculus

I heard the subpac was good too, as was the buttkicker. But the subpac is expensive and the buttkicker was sold out lol so I bought the budget tactile feedback rig (Recommended by another /r/oculus member.) which included these three things. It also took a few wires and some tweaking but after mounting it to a chair, I love it

u/Liquidretro · 2 pointsr/litecoinmining

No

I bought one of these a few weeks back to power 1 gridseed. At the time it was a prime item and about $8 works great http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/jagedlion · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you really don't want to buy anything, you could power that off an old computer power supply. On the big connector, short the green wire to a black wire, so the power supply turns on when switched on, and from one of the power connectors, connect a yellow (+12V) to your positive, and the black to your ground.

Granted, 12V 6A power supplies are $10 with prime shipping from amazon. So that might make more sense.

Edit: for example http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG

u/euThohl3 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I've bought a few of these -- they're pretty good for $9:

http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Power-Supply-LCD-Monitor/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417995581&sr=8-2&keywords=12v+power+supply

Battery chargers can be weird. They don't just output some voltage, they follow a charging algorithm for batteries, which isn't what you want to power a simple load.

u/crossfires · 2 pointsr/vaporents

This is what I’ve been including with all of my recent builds: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG

I’ve had a lot of problems with the cheapo eBay junk.

u/a_nun_mouse · 2 pointsr/dogemining

Someone recommended this once.

So I'm assuming it's the right connector.

u/vigulfr · 2 pointsr/Dynavap

Chanzon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F) is the one that I used. I just ordered the Kastar (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/) - it should arrive tomorrow. I'll try that and report back!

u/MichaelFR85 · 1 pointr/oculus

This setup is amazingly cheap ($80 to $90) and powerful...

http://amzn.com/B0002ZPTBI

http://amzn.com/B0070Z87YO

http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG

All it takes is one to make a huge difference. Great with headphones on.

u/thealo4taslkfj · 1 pointr/dogecoin

OK thanks, I took the plunge and also ordered this power supply http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG I read about in another thread for $13 on amazon.

u/Dbag_anonymous · 1 pointr/SoundSystem

I think i was using the wrong adapter by accident. Just bought this, hopefully everything works better after. Should i wire the speakers individually to each channel?

u/TMaccius · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I had been operating the chamber as a son of a fermentation chiller for a while. To upgrade it, I got a regular computer heatsink for inside, a liquid pump heatsink to pipe the heat outside, a 77-watt cooler, and a 6A power supply (the cooler actually pulls around 4.5A). I used the same cooler to repair a broken Craigslist wine fridge, which has better insulation and can hit the mid-50s.

I haven't tested the SOFC too much since the redesign, and I just started my first beer in it. But to be safe during active fermentation, I just stuck some ice bottles in the chamber as usual. The airflow isn't as good as it was before, because now I'm using a fan with a heatsink on it rather than a case fan, but it seems to be working okay. At least until I left the lid ajar this morning... (Fortunately it's a Belgian!)

u/IanPPK · 1 pointr/homelab

I didn't have good luck with mine (sounded like a capacitor couldn't hold charge, but I didn't open it up), but others have had their noise issues fixed with a three prong NEMA power brick, like so:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/

u/mill1000 · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AS8PCMKEL4RLT

Worked great until it died when I was charging at max power. Getting a 2nd one.

u/l337sponge · 1 pointr/dogecoin

watch out for good deals on gridseeds. You can get them for 40-50 bucks right now.

I'm using this power supply
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This splitter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JG7HO52/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazonbasics 7port USB hub which was for sale on amazon for $18.99

Hooked up to my win7 machine running CGminer, might go to raspberry pi route soon just to get it out of my room. As I said, I don't pay for power so ya... otherwise ROI would be basically unattainable which it pretty much is anyway.

You CANNOT DUAL MINE with this setup. SCRYPT ONLY, Absolutely NO SHA-256. power supply with splitter works, simply because gridseeds use such little power in scrypt only mode.

http://i.imgur.com/G502RoU.png

u/TheAverageKerbal · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

I use this charger and this power supply.

u/R_Weebs · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I use the accucell 6. cheap, seems to work well. charge times are as expected, but the post about parallel charging from u/fryfrog seems to speed that up.

I use this power supply http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/JoePrey · 1 pointr/Multicopter

The receiver gets its power from the server leads that go from the receiver pins to the receiver itself.

You do not need additional power for the receiver from an ESC.



ALso for charger I bought

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466L0BW/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


It will work with batteries up to 6s.

It does not come with an AC adapter so I had to buy this as well

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


They seem to work well together.

u/jaredjdr · 1 pointr/Dynavap

Appreciate the info! That’s what I’m struggling with. The guide mentioned 5a for first builds, but if I’m better off with 6a and going the MOSFET route, I’d rather know now. On that subject, what do you think of this?


Power supply

Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vTD0DbWRDYN6

Switch

API-ELE [3 year warranty] All New Design 10 Amp 22mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V Angel Eye LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q65BMGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YYD0Db02QYZ2Y


With this setup do I still need the MOSFET?


Thanks!

u/sequentialsilence · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Here's what I found: Amplifier, Battery, Power Supply, I recommend you put a switch between the amp and the battery, and you will also need a heat sink of some sort for the amplifier.

u/Valum · 1 pointr/arduino

Depending on the solenoid it'll probably take more current than a normal 9V battery can provide.

If it doesn't need to be portable, there's plenty of options for cheap 12v power supplies.

If it's going in a car you'll want to just run the wires from the battery.

If for some reason you need it to be portable and don't want to plug it in you're going to need a decent sized battery. If it's a small enough solenoid (i.e. an amp or two max) you could get a battery holder. There's also plenty of 12V RC batteries.

u/Pandassaurus · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

One last question, what does it mean when it says 5A stall? What's stall? The power supplies I found seemed too big for such a small motor. From what I know, the voltage has to be the same (12v) but the A can be bigger than required without going under. Thanks a lot for your help!

edit: this is one I found: http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Power-Supply-LCD-Monitor/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1421305179&sr=8-5&keywords=12v+5A

u/subiacOSB · 1 pointr/Dynavap

Power supply seems a bit weak. Why don’t you get a 6A power supply? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/elmoret · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

4 of these - you could use cardboard to save more money - $32

1 of these - $5

1 of these - $22

1 of these - $8

Optional: $10 PWM controller for the blower.

So under $50 with cardboard, a bit over $50 with acrylic.

u/ExLiberMortis · 1 pointr/vaporents

I used this power supply with my DIY build and I've had no issues: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W32HDbPN1BR2V

With that said, I'm using a MOSFET board controlled by a momentary button, so the load on mine at the PSU may be different.

u/nofear1056 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Is this a Lepai add on or just any old 6amp power supply like this? Sorry if that's a dumb question, just want to make sure I get it right. I appreciate the help.

u/TurnbullFL · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Finding a good one plug & play will be more difficult.

Here is a 6 amp one. you could try.

u/russell_m · 1 pointr/astrophotography

So I've also just noticed that my DC -> AC adapater does not have a ground prong, and looks like this. It's now leading me to believe this could be causing me some serious power problems. I am thinking to purchase something like this instead. Do you think that has any protection from voltage drop?

u/demolition22 · 1 pointr/funny

This is what I ordered: 12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Hn2ptb15C8T5B

That's what I got.

u/noorbeast · 1 pointr/oculus

I have not used the power supply and consider you likely need more amps.

Another option are the LP168S amps I use in my lounge, they have 2x40w bass output: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LP168S-Car-Amplifier-Audio-Stereo-2-1-HiFi-Channel-2x40W-Sub-Output-Super-Bass-/301943399029?rmvSB=true

And take a common 12V power convertor like this, you may even have some of these around as they are common for many 12V devices: https://www.amazon.com/Kastar-Adapter-Monitor-Wireless-Security/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_3/147-8395938-1729948?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JXD0AG6CA2S5NEDJ0X9V&dpID=51GD35m3vPL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

u/Moto13k · 1 pointr/VRGaming

I have a simple cheap setup that i use for VR flight and racing sims. It provides a nice rumble, granted it's not as precise as something like simvibe but it gets the job done.

i have the following hardware:

u/howudoon · 1 pointr/Dynavap

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c8ivDbB8AP6VT

Okay this is the one that Amazon said is "frequently bought" with the IH module and it says 6 A, do you think it would be adequate or should I just get a 10 A? Im trying to keep the build as inexpensive as possible

u/Schwerlin · 1 pointr/techsupport

Helpfully, the 3rd image on this listing gives exact dimensions of the barrel. If they measure the same you should be good to go!

u/LNMagic · -2 pointsr/buildapc

The cheapest thing to create on your computer is by far the most expensive to restore. If your hard drive fails, professionals can recover data, but that typically starts at about $700.

You need redundancy. That means a minimum of 2 hard drives (RAID 1).

Be aware that if you want to do the same thing to a future Blu Ray collection, it can add up really fast. I've started ripping HD DVD and Blu Ray movies to my server about 9 months ago after a drive failed on me, and I've already filled up nearly 2TB in videos.

Finally, I really recommend that if you plan on leaving your server on 24/7, you do everything you can to reduce its idle power consumption. If you pay 11.4c/kW*hr, then each watt your computer consumes costs you $1 per year. It wasn't that long ago that a common desktop could take up 150W idle, but my home server uses a mere 23W. You can cut out about 20W of overhead by using a picoPSU and DC power adapter. If 72W isn't enough, you can also go for a more expensive 192W model that should be able to handle anything you'll use with the server.

Building for low power consumption on a server will often save you $40-100 per year in electricity bills.