#20 in Welding & Soldering
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Reddit mentions of Kester 24-6337-0027 Solder Roll, Core Size 66, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter

Sentiment score: 13
Reddit mentions: 25

We found 25 Reddit mentions of Kester 24-6337-0027 Solder Roll, Core Size 66, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter. Here are the top ones.

Kester 24-6337-0027 Solder Roll, Core Size 66, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031
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    Features:
  • Country Of Origin: China
  • Model Number: 24-6337-0027
  • Item Package Dimension: 2.49999999745" L x 2.299999997654" W x 2.299999997654" H
  • Item Package Weight: 1.0405 lb
Specs:
ColorKester "Yellow" Label
Height3 Inches
Length2.5 Inches
Number of items1
Size(1) Kester 24-6337-0027 Spool, 1 Pound per Spool
Weight0.04375 Pounds
Width2.5 Inches

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Found 25 comments on Kester 24-6337-0027 Solder Roll, Core Size 66, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter:

u/thrilleratplay · 14 pointsr/thinkpad

I know. That was the first thing I thought. I bought two kits for my x220 and x230, I screwed up royally the first attempt and wound up needing to use the second set of items.

Before you start, the equipment you will need:

  • a precision screwdriver kit. This is what I use
  • Exacto knife
  • Dremel/pliers/sandpaper to make room for the LCD.
  • canned air to clean up the plastic and metal shavings from dremel/pliers/sandpaper
  • as /u/Bredius88 already mentioned, flux. I used liquid flux. If you use liquid flux you will also need rubbing alcohol and qtips to clean up.
  • desolder pump
  • magnifying lens of some sort. I used this which was good enough and could also keep my glasses on.
  • kapton tape. (1/4" width or less)
  • If it has been a decade since you last soldered or have shaky hands, or both in my case, I strongly suggest buying very thin solder and, if possible, a quality soldering iron like a Hakko FX888D. These were suggested by the EEVblog soldering tutorial made the second time around far easier.


    A few words of "wisdom"

  • Take your time and do not rush. It is incredibly easy to miss things in the installation guide.
  • DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING. If the LCD screen does not lay flush with the screw holes or the bezel is not clipping, you need to remove more material from the case/bezel
  • Do not be stingy with the flux
  • Do not over heat your soldering iron
  • The sense wire looks like it is copper, but that is just the film on it. Gently scrape it with the exacto knife to reveal the wire in side. It will not solder with this film on it
  • For each step, tape the piece in place before soldering then gently remove the tape. This was the only way I could solder the sense wire because it is so thin and light
  • The eDP cable is very fragile. Do not keep plugging/unplugging it. If you do need ot unplug it (like after testing), only unplug the side from the board and keep pressure on the board when doing so as not to wreak your solder joints
  • When everything has been soldered in place, test it before putting everything back together

    Also, on the V5, I used the old installation guide and the big difference is that the power is connected to the far left under the fuse marked "P". In the picture your finger is kind of covering it.

    EDIT: Anyone trying to justify spending ~$125US on a good soldering iron and solder just remember that replacing the motherboard will cost you about the same and will not be as useful a decade from now.
u/crb3 · 14 pointsr/diypedals

Kester #44 63/37 0.031" diam solder ...The link is to a 1-pound spool; I think there are offerings of a few ounces in there too. I know there's a link to a 1-oz dispenser at the bottom of the page.

I've been using this stuff for decades, since I was first introduced to it as a production solderer. Nothing else comes close, in my opinion.

Mouser carries it too, but the Amazon link is cheaper.

u/jazzguitarboy · 6 pointsr/amateurradio

Get 63/37 instead -- it's eutectic, so no more cold joints! You can get a big roll from Kester on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-0027-Solder-Alloy-Diameter/dp/B0149K4JTY/

u/shadowdude777 · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

That's waaaaay overkill in my opinion. Don't spend that much on something you're gonna use once a year or something. I treated myself because I solder several times a month and got this guy.

And if you plan to only do kits where you only have to solder switches, you can literally do that with a $5 RadioShack iron (my friend did that for his MiniVan). Switches are pretty much the single easiest thing to solder. They're huge and very heat-resistant. If you want to do, for example, surface-mount diodes, you might want something heat-controllable, but any junk will do for switches.

BUT GET GOOD SOLDER. In particular, most stores sell 60/40 (60% lead, 40% tin) solder. 60/40 solder is awful. 63/37 solder is way better because 63/37 solder melts at a lower temperature and its melting point is one point instead of a range of temperatures where it's partially solid. Kester 44 63/37 is some of the best.

u/Rob27shred · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

LOL, that last part, it's happened to all of us though being honest. :P Anyways u/superuser41's suggestions are spot on. I use a Hakko FX888D myself & love it, very nice station for the money IMHO. Never used that particular sodapult but they are well regarded in the community.

Edit: This is a good tip for soldering switches & LEDs (my personal fav size/type for it). You may want to grab a few, it looks like the linked bundle only comes with one tip. Also this is a high quality solder in the right diameter for soldering switches/LEDs. This is good solder wick, This is a good flux, & I always recommend getting some tip tinner.

u/lazd · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

You are building a flying machine. In order to build a flying machine, you need to start with good tools.

  1. Get some decent rosin-core solder. Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 0.80mm is good and has a low melting temperature, which makes it easier to work with.
  2. Get a decent soldering iron. I recommend the Weller WES51 or Weller WESD51 and Weller ETO tips for small jobs like signal wires, and the Weller ETA tip (included with the iron) for XT60s and ESC wires. No, it isn't cheap, but yes, it will last you 20 years.
  3. Get some tweezers. I like the Hakko CHP 00D-SA.
  4. Get some wire strippers. I like the TEKTON 3794.

    Soldering is an important part of building a flying machine. You need to learn to solder:

  5. Strip your wires to the length of the pad you're going to solder them to.
  6. Your iron should be at 700°-750°, depending on the solder (63/37 has a lower melting point than 60/40).
  7. Before doing anything with your iron, Clean the tip of the iron on a wet sponge, then tin the tip of the iron by applying a small amount of solder
  8. Tin pads by applying a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron, applying the tip of the iron to the pad, then applying solder between the tip of the iron and the pad until the pad is completely covered in solder.
  9. Tin wires by applying a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron, applying the tip of the iron to the base of the exposed wire, then adding solder as you move the tip of the iron to the tip of the exposed wire.
  10. Tin the iron, grab the tinned wire with your tweezers, place it above the tinned pad, press the wire into the pad using the tip of the iron, hold for 2 seconds, remove the iron, hold for 2 seconds.

    You are building a flying machine, do it right.
u/beanmosheen · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

This stuff is awesome and will last you forever. It's worth the cost. it's 63/37 which flows a little better.

u/JohnnieRicoh · 2 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

Does Amazon sell internationally? I have no idea. The best solder is this stuff https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you can find kester 63/37 anywhere that'll ship to you that's the stuff. I wasted a lot of money on little tubes from my hardware store until I just stocked up with a reel of this

u/Soonermandan · 2 pointsr/TinyWhoop

Yeah if it came with a kit it's probably lead-free. I'd just get a pound of 63/37 or 60/40 tin/lead rosin core solder, small diameter. Kester is my go-to. Super easy to work with and a pound should last you years. This is my go-to flux. Pricey but the two in combination actually make soldering enjoyable.

u/Ophidios · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Whoo, loaded question with tons of opinions, hah.

The "best" lube is highly subjective, and it also depends on the type of switch. If you're lubing linear switches, my personal favorite is VPF 1514 oil. It's not cheap, but it gets the job done (you can order smaller quantities of it from Mehkee. For tactile switches, I use Krytox GPL 205 (which you used to be able to buy DuPont brand on Amazon, but no longer appears to be available).

Best solder for building keyboards is Kester, 0.8mm, hands down. Quality stuff, flows and bonds well, and the size is good for switches or LEDs.

Soldering iron recommendations: This cheap kit is acceptable for building a keyboard (I built 4 or 5 with it prior to upgrading). If you know you're going to be building multiple kits, and you think it's possible you might do re-work or try to desolder boards, just go ahead and spend the money right the first time and get this one: Hakko FX888D. Basically the gold standard of soldering irons.

u/donutcat_cables · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Kester 44 63/37 is approximately the best solder you can buy for keyboard related needs, available in both 1lb spools and 1oz tubes. Yes it's a bit pricey, but solder is one of those things where you get what you pay for, and dealing with cheapo no-name solder can actually lead to damage to components.

u/ca178858 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is what I use when soldering switches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

63/37 is slight easier to work with, and the flux doesn't need to be cleaned. I use a smaller diameter for SMD work (I think its 0.02 diamter, but may be even smaller). When soldering switches though the smaller diameter is a hassle- you have to feed several inches into the joint before you have enough solder.

Edit- and I linked huge rolls, it'll be a long time before I need to buy more, and I solder a lot. If you can find a smaller roll it may be worth getting it instead.

u/TheUnluckyGamer13 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I do not know if he got you the links but here they are all on Amazon. The funniest thing is that I have it all ready for when I get enough money for this and the Hakko FX-888D.

Solder is the Kester 44

Solder sucker

Desoldering wick

Hakko cleaning tip wire station

u/bmilcs · 1 pointr/headphones

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use. It's super easy to use. I'm not sure but I think yours should be fine. I would ask in the Bottlehead forumr; their support is great .

u/io2red · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Okay, so what you're saying is you do not necessarily need additional flux if you're using rosin core? Makes sense. Getting a pen sounds like a good idea here then, and will probably be much cheaper. Thanks!

I am thinking of buying these two rolls of solder:

Kester 44: 63/37 .031 diameter (For general soldering)

Kester 44: 63/37 .020 diameter (For SMD's)

& Kester 951 in a 12mL pen

Would these be suitable?

u/keredomo · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you plan on building more than one keyboard, I would go for a more expensive soldering iron, or at least one that has a temp of ~625 F (330 C). That was the sweet spot for the solder I used, Kester's 0.031" Sn67/Pb37 (handy amazon link). Alternatively, you might be able to borrow a nice iron from someone.

u/dronez4dayz · 1 pointr/diydrones

37% lead.

I'm using this:

Kester 24-6337-0027 Solder Roll, Core Size 66, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149K4JTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UU-QBbXSERJ3H

u/OverlyDeadWingman · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Chose this one, wasn't sure between the .020" and the .031"? And makes sense. Thanks!

u/ARCFXX · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Kester 67/37 0.03" is what I've seen recommended before several times.

It's only slightly thinner than the 0.6mm stuff. I bought a very similar one, because I don't live in the US. It's a good thickness for keyboards. Flows nicely.

That 1lb spool is big enough to last you a lifetime if you're not doing a lot of soldering, you can get smaller quantities.

u/Bilbo_Fraggins · 1 pointr/fpvracing

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/soldering-station-with-adjustable-heat-range-us-warehouse.html is the best value iron IMHO. I have one I keep at the office and a ~$100 Hakko at home, and find them to be about equivalent so far.


I'd recommend picking up a cheap tip set as well. They won't last forever, but good for light use to figure out which ones work best (usually chisel tip style) and you can replace the ones you wear out with better ones.

You'll also need some solder ( or this is a lifetime supply of good stuff) and tweezers at minimum, and there's more stuff that's useful too, especially side cutters and solder wick.