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Reddit mentions of Kester 24-6337-8800 50 Activated Rosin Cored Wire Solder Roll, 245 No-Clean, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter

Sentiment score: 8
Reddit mentions: 17

We found 17 Reddit mentions of Kester 24-6337-8800 50 Activated Rosin Cored Wire Solder Roll, 245 No-Clean, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter. Here are the top ones.

Kester 24-6337-8800 50 Activated Rosin Cored Wire Solder Roll, 245 No-Clean, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031
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Wire gauge: 20 awg, 21 swg, 50 core and core size: 1.1 inch0.031 inchCompatible with leaded and lead-free alloys
Specs:
ColorKester "Tan" Label (No-Clean)
Height2.25 Inches
Length2.5 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateMarch 2017
Size(1) Pack - Kester 24-6337-8800
Weight0.000625 Pounds
Width2.5 Inches

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Found 17 comments on Kester 24-6337-8800 50 Activated Rosin Cored Wire Solder Roll, 245 No-Clean, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter:

u/elucidatum · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

>I am worried about the soldering

Soldering is easy. Use this solder and a decent quality hot pen, optimally with adjustable heat that goes up to 500C, you'll need the extra heat for soldering down the 12ga power wires to the flat contacts on the hotbed. I bought this kit on a Christmas sale for like $20 and it was fantastic for my build; had everything I needed. The pen might not last a lifetime like a Hakko or Weller pro station, but it got the job done wonderfully and I'm sure it will get me through my second v3 build here in about a week. (yes, I love this one so much, I'm building a second!)

>cutting out of plastic pieces

There's no cutting anything out, everything is laser cut for you already, you just pop it out.

>is it pretty self-explanatory?

The instructions could be clearer, I'll say. They could definitely reorder a few steps to make the build a bit easier during later steps. That said, it all came together without any issues. Just make sure you keep everything WELL organized.

Now listen,

Disregard everyone on this sub that says "deltas are more difficult," including and especially those with "Rostock Max V2 w/E3dV6" in their flair! ;-) Seriously folks, the meme that deltas are more difficult is dead. Repetier firmare has advanced to the point where calibrating them is even easier than Cartesian and I mean that!

Just so you're aware, I had in my possession 2 Cartesians prior to building this delta, and the cartesians never printed 100 microns perfectly. Literally straight after I finished my v3 build, ran the calibration script, dialed in KISSlicer, and hit print, the Rostock was laying down 100 microns at 80-100mm/sec without issue. I've never had a print lift off the heated bed, and I don't use anything to increase adhesion, just the bare glass.

At .3mm layer height, I can push the speed to 160mm/sec which seems to be the limit of the 8-bit RAMBo board before it starts artifcating pretty routinely. Nothing severe, but there's definitely some imperfections at that speed. Guess what: no one on this sub is printing 160mm/sec on their Cartesians without it looking like absolute shit, and my 160mm/sec prints are passable for prototypes. You're just not going to get that much speed with that high of a precision out of a desktop Cartesian, even with a bowden. You just will not.

Much larger build volume. Lower maintenance. Awesome SeeMeCNC customer support. Higher precision. Faster build times.

Listen, I could have streched my budget and gotten 3 Prusa MK2s and had a friggen sweet little farm going for what I'm paying for two v3s, but the MAX v3 is simply the superior option if you can afford the slightly higher price over the MK2. If you can't hit $999+shipping, just get the MK2. If you can hit that target, just get the v3. It's a better printer.

u/frisk2u · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Glad to help :)

Here is EEVblog's tutorial set on soldering. Part 1 and 2 will be more relevant for your purposes. In the first part he talks about tools (which includes your actual solder), how they work, and why certain properties are important, so you know what you need. In the second he talks about the process for through hole soldering (like you need for the holtites) and how to know you're doing it properly, and things to look for. Part 3 is for SMD stuff, which doesnt affect you in this scenario, but I tacked it on just for good measure.

u/ubiquitousrarity · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

I will third this choice. Just buy a big spool- you will not be sorry. This solder doesn't have a plastic state- it goes directly from liquid to solid so your chance of cold joints are virtually nil.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJOU/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_pLjXCbHS5HRYE

Also the Hakko 888 is a dream. Like others I got a wide assortment of tips with it so I have the right tool for each job. If I could add one other must must must have, it's this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NS4J6BY/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_tOjXCbDNSRC4K

That stuff is the cat's ass. Get it.

u/donutcat_cables · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://smile.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP13-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B00Z81A4Y8

I actually use one of these for all of my PCB soldering. Good enough "temp" control and replaceable tips that work well. Grab something like https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076V14SRC since it's better than a sponge, and something like https://smile.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-8800-Activated-Solder-No-Clean/dp/B00068IJOU, maybe one of the 1oz packs if you can find it. Kester is a good brand with their 245 being their "no clean" which leaves basically no flux mess on a board. 63/37 is easy to work with and .031" is a good middle ground size for our usage. 1lb looks a little pricey, but the 1oz packs of it are basically half as much as the full pound so it's worth paying if you're ever gonna solder more than a few boards.

u/ZiggyTheHamster · 2 pointsr/electronic_circuits
  • Amazon
  • Micro Center

    You probably also have local maker/computer stores that sell it. Look for the type of place that sells Arduinos or Raspberry Pis. You can also order from Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. Fry's also sells it, but unless you live near one, it's unlikely to beat Amazon Prime.
u/LSR305s · 2 pointsr/diysound

Wow thanks for such a thorough response!!!

  1. yeah I figured as much, I'm thinking i'll start with Corded Hitachi , or Corded Ryobi and then if it ever breaks or if I need a cordless I'll upgrade down the line.
  2. True, Likely worth the upgrade. Do you think I should focus on Titanium over Black Oxide? or is a reputable brand the main concern?
  3. Thanks for the insight!
  4. Solder , Gotcha Yeah i'll try to see if I can find anything like this locally (smaller quantity preferably)
  5. Stahl Soldering Gun , I'm thinking this one which was linked elsewhere in this thread.

    6/9/10 - I think they were written into the manual as different ways in which to attach the crossover board to the bottom of the box. how do you normally attach it to the bottom of the box?

    I'm considering Crossover Board , just to help with organization, however i'd still need to attach it to the bottom of the box.

    ​

    I just realized I forgot speaker wire for the internals, does it matter a lot which gauge? any general guidance.

    ​

    I would really like to complete the outside of the boxes , as i may end up giving them away as a gift eventually. wondering if i'll need a Sander , if i plan on doing vinyl or some sort of wrap? I'm not against painting, just against spray painting.

    ​

    ​

    Also forgot Snips
u/riottaco · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Surprising! That's the first good thing I've hear about the K tips! Sounds like a lot of people toss em or basically never use them after getting some chisel tips.

As for solder, I was originally going to order some off Aliexpress, but it sounds like that's a terrible idea. Kester 245 No Clean 63/37 in a 0.031" (0.8mm) sounds like a good balance for genera purpose solder. I'm afraid 0.5mm will be too narrow for soldering THT, splices, etc.

u/p0k3t0 · 1 pointr/diypedals

I don't care for rosin core, personally. It smells nice, but it burns, leaving scorched black particles on your joints, and it leaves an ugly (though protective) residue, which is tough to clean, especially if you leave it for a while.

I much prefer Kester No-Clean, which cleans up very easily with a drop or two of isopropanol.

This is what I use for all of my thru-hole stuff.

u/240pMan · 1 pointr/crtgaming

there are about 5-6 other components that I could still replace in the horizontal linearity circuit and I will probably do this. I do think it will solve the issue but I will likely try because of how much effort and money I have invested into this set. I love the set other than the geometry problems and the geometry issue isn't really that noticeable in 3D games. I don't notice it at all when playing Super Mario 64 and N64 looks great on the JVC D201 set. Also, keep in mind that when you are dealing with geometry issues, you only need to focus on the horizontal and vertical linearity circuits which contain 20-30 aluminum electrolytic capacitors combined. Replacing capacitors isn't hard at all with the right tools. I did make sure to watch a ton of videos on how to solder and desolder and I bought my tools based on recommendations in Youtube videos and on several electronics forums.
 
I use this soldering iron and it works great, https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hakko+soldering+iron&qid=1556333443&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 
I use this solder sucker and it is also great. You just have to make sure to push out the old solder with the pump after every 1-2 connections, https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=engineer+solder+sucker&qid=1556333566&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 
I recommend have a desoldering wick as backup as well. Use a no-clean solder wick of 2.0mm for general desoldering. As far as flux, flux paste is easier to use as it doesn't drip. The AMTECH NC-559-V2-TF no-clean tacky solder flux is good. Any no clean liquid flux from Kester or MG Chemicals will work fine as well. Definitely get some wire cutters for cutting solder and cutting component leads.
 
I use this solder (I recommend lead solder with a rosin core and also no clean) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Any time you work on a CRT, you need to discharge the anode cap. This is very easy to do with the proper tools. For example, you could use a flat head screwdriver and an alligator clip wire to do this. You connect one end to the screw driver, the other end to a ground point on the CRT chassis (i.e. the metal frame around the CRT), slide the screwdriver under the rubber anode cap with the CRT unplugged until you hit the metal connector in the metal. Rub the screwdriver on this metal connector for about 5 seconds and it will be discharged. Retrotech on Youtube has a video on how to do this. I wouldn't say you need $80 electrical gloves to do this but at least wear a rubber or leather glove or both and only use one hand. Retrotech actually has quite a few videos on how to work on CRTs.
 
Overall, doing basic things like replacing capacitors in CRTs isn't that hard, you just have to spend the time to educate yourself, be patient and it will click. If you have any questions, just ask me or anyone else on here. If you ever work on any power circuit capacitors, make sure to discharge them with a high wattage and ohm rated resistor but using insulated pliers to hold the resistor legs to the capacitor legs for about 5 seconds to discharge the cap before you remove it.

u/Rob27shred · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For the solder I use this, then for the soldapullt grab one of these. That soldapullt is kinda on the expensive side, but everyone I know that uses it swears by it. I just use the cheap blue throw away ones myself, but that is in conjunction with the de-soldering iron I linked earlier so they don't get much use. I wouldn't trust them to de-solder a whole board TBH.

Edit: Oh yeah, here's where you can get some SIP sockets too. Hope this helps!

u/Ophidios · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I haven't, but I found this guy on Amazon and it seems pretty legit.

I'll have to pick some up.

u/simimax · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/Kester-No-Clean-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469107079&sr=8-3&keywords=63%2F37+flux+solder

Is that a good solder to use if I'm soldering switches for my Planck? Also do I need a flux pen and should I get better tips for my iron?

I just got the Hakko fx888 station if that helps.

u/Malmortulo · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

63/37 Rosin Core, No Clean, 0.031 solder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJOU

If you plan on soldering again in the future I'd pick up a Hakko FX888D: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M. Otherwise there are a few cheaper stations that would work.

u/WhiffleX · 0 pointsr/Multicopter

You probably won't find the right kind of solder offline. Just buy this.