#56 in Tools & Home Improvement
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Reddit mentions of Kreg Jig R3 Pocket Hole System
Sentiment score: 22
Reddit mentions: 41
We found 41 Reddit mentions of Kreg Jig R3 Pocket Hole System. Here are the top ones.
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- The Kreg Jig Jr(R3) is an amazing repair jig and an exceptionally handy addition to any tool collection
- Easy to use and install
- Whether you're crawling under a table to make a quick repair or taking Kreg Joinery on the road
Features:
Specs:
| Color | Blue |
| Height | 5 Inches |
| Length | 8 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Size | Pack of 1 |
| Weight | 1 Pounds |
| Width | 2.25 Inches |
Woodworking - the barrier to entry can be intimidating at times but in reality you can build a good amount of projects with a saw and some screws. Lots of people make impressive things using just a Kreg Jig and Skilsaw
If you enjoyed the process of making this and see real value in the higher quality results compared to buying flatpack particleboard furniture...
For you next one you night consider buying specialty plywood that comes with a nice hardwood veneer on one side (oak, maple, walnut, cherry, etc). You could also buy a cheap pockethole jig and build a hardwood face frame for the front (for fun). But as long as it's not getting really beat on, the veneer edge banding lasts pretty well.
GC here who specializes in decks/rails.
First, get yourself this Pocket Hole Jig (this things is worth every freaking penny), and get some blue kreg 2-1/2" pocket screws from home depot/lowes.
Then add one more layer to your current picture. So you should have 2x4 on bottom, then 1x2, then pickets, 1x2, 2x4 on top, then optional 2x6 for something a little nicer. Doing it this way allows you to place the bottom 2x4 first, then assemble the pickets/1x2s as one unit that you can place on top of 2x4, with final 2x4 on top. Use the pocket hole jig on the ends of the 2xs to attach to posts. this will create an amazingly strong railing. attach pickets to 1x2s using 3 or more 15/16 guage trim nails.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
If you zoom in on pic 2 enough on the top, you can see the pocket holes. I filled these in with plastic plugs made by kreg, if its being painted, you could also use their pine ones which make an almost invisible seam.
Also, I HIGHLY recommend using KDAT (Kiln Dried After Treatment) wood. if you don't, the wood will expand/contract after installation causing all of your joints to come undone. its also paint ready as soon as youre done. no need to wait until it dries. Find a specialty retailer for good woods, I'm particular to Madison Woods, pricey, but worth it.
You can get a smaller version of the Kreg jig for $40. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=pd_cp_hi_2
Takes a little more finagling, but I've used mine a ton. Once you've gone pocket screw, you don't really ever want to go back - it is so easy!
You need to invest in a Kreg Jig and fix that jenky-ass book shelf! :P
I'll probably get run out of town for saying it, but, if you're going to do more of this kind of a project, get yourself one of these or one of these.
No pocket screws aren't as strong as joinery, but for these kind of projects they're fast and work well enough and they'll last longer than the plates/L brackets you used.
It really depends on what you want to start building? Any ideas of what your first 5 projects are? For woodworking, I'd get the following.
a) Circular saw. It will make fast work of cutting sheet goods, it's possible to rip boards with decent accuracy, and you can cross cut as well. Super versatile because you can make several jigs and use different blades for hardwoods, plywoods, and even tile. For light, occasional work, you won't notice a difference between a $50 Skil model and a $120 DeWALT model. Just don't drop it.
b) Jig saw. You can also cut plywood and hardwoods with a jig saw, but the results will not be as good. The benefit of a jig saw is that you can make circular (or any shape really) cuts. You can make a low more artsy stuff with a jig saw.
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCCK602L2-Lithium-Tool-Combo/dp/B00CM7Z2KW/
I'd suggest a a drill and impact driver set. You can get away with just a drill and use it to drive screws as well. However, with the combo sets, I was able to pick up an impact driver and a flashlight with a carrying case that uses the same batteries for about $20 more than just a drill and 2 batteries alone. The impact driver will allow you to drive 3-1/2" screws into studs like butter.
http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W
This bad boy has made furniture makers out of many that wouldn't be able to in the past. You'll need a good clamp to use with it. Just search YouTube for videos about building stuff. Ana White uses pocket holes on every thing and she makes decent stuff.
"A woodworker never has enough clamps." Everyone knows this.
http://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-3724-HD-24-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Steel/dp/B00005R1HY
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Quick-Grip-Clamp-Set/dp/B00A9KMARW/
I have 6 of the 24" clamps, 8 of the Irwin Quick Grip clamps, and a handful of spring clamps. I've been able to build just about anything with that many clamps... but I've wanted more. If you use the pocket hole system, you'll want to clamp pieces together before you drive the screws.
I went to a Habitat for Humanity ReStore and picked up an old particle board desk that is about 300 lbs for $20. That's what I use. Otherwise, you can build one from 2x4s with the tools above and build your skills.
Squares, Drill bits, Driver bits....
I usually pick up something new for every project I start.
That's about $500 worth of tools and is the barest of bare bones I'd suggest someone to start with if they want to build bookshelves etc. The most important thing you can have is knowledge and YouTube/Reddit is the best place to get it if you don't have a woodworker to physically teach you.
No, it's a jig for creating pocket holes. I own it, and it works really great. Lets you put in hidden screws that pull pieces together just about anywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396413078&sr=8-3&keywords=kreg+jig
There are a couple ways to do this.
If you want to do it quickly and don't really care about how the details look, get a Kreg jig (I use this one) and put it together with pocket holes.
If you want something that looks nicer than pocket holes, use a sliding dovetail for the top joint and a lock rabbet for the bottom.
Are you going to put a back and/or a face frame on this? As it appears now, you're not going to have a very strong piece. Adding either or both would add strength.
I spent $40 on a pocket hole jig specifically for this project. It was more expensive than I wanted, but in the end, I think it was worth it for the results it provided.
It sets you up to drill the pocket holes at the right angle, at the right depth, for whatever thickness wood you're working on
For most hobbyist level users an r3 jig will be plenty good enough. Unless you are making cabinets all day you don't need the full size jig.
You'll probably want a c-vise grip, kreg makes one or you can get an r3 deluxe kit that comes with it, but harbor freight has one that's just as good for like $6.
I have both the k5 and r3 kreg jigs. I probably actually use the r3 more and there is nothing the k5 does that the r3 can't, the k5 is just faster if you need to drill a hundred pocket holes for a cabinet or something.
Neat! I already have a Kreg R3 Jr. but now I wanna print this just to have another one!
Here are things from my wishlist (past and present)
Wera Screwdrivers
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0085NTQJK/
Oscillating blade set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0109SELWA/
Clamp multimeter:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/
Kreg Jig Jr.:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000J43A7W/
Angled Long Nose Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VSS4S/
Groove Lock Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FK1R0W/
11 ft wifi endoscope:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/
non contact voltage tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/
claw nail puller:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPJMY/
Workmate portable work bench:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000077CQ0/
Cable snake fish tape:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BP7WBO/
9 Outlet metal power bar:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F8ZQY5M/
Spade drill bit set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00099E7WE/
36" bubble level:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000UKMWMO/
The other commenter is right on - this is the Jon Sine Desk.
A few things I’d note:
Hope this helps. Happy to help with any additional questions you might have as you get into it. The project was a lot of work but has a very rewarding end result :-)
At the time I thought this was an "experimental" cabinet. I had never built a cabinet with drawers before. I used the cheapest slides available, these things.
Don't do what I did. It's not a good place to save money. Instead, spend a little more and get some sexy ball-bearing ones.
My drawers open and close fine, but they have a cheap feel to them, and I suspect that they won't work as well in the long run. Additionally, they were a massive pain in the ass to get adjusted correctly.
Also, I used 3/4" (ish) pine ply because I couldn't find maple at my local home depot, but doing it again I'd look harder and use maple. Again, I wanted to use the cheap stuff because this was my first cabinet, but it was a silly place to save money.
The sweat that goes into making your own cabinet, even a cheap one, is well worth spending a little more on better materials.
That being said, I'm proud of mine. Which reminds me-- I should probably empty them out and put a few more coats of poly on there.
All of the cuts were made with my Festool track saw (it would have been easier with a table saw, but I don't own one) and the "handle" holes were drilled with a forstner bit and the joinery was done with the Kreg Jr. pocket jig and screws.
It probably would have gone just as well with a nail gun and glue, if you don't mind putting a little putty in the nail holes.
EDIT: I just posted a gallery of my process pics. It's not super comprehensive, but I'll be happy to explain anything that doesn't make sense.
Totally worth the money:
A drill that will actually drill holes. I bought a POS drill (50 bucks) and it had no power to it. I finally dropped 250 on this and well worth every penny:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DG7SYYI
If you're doing any type of wood working and you want to join peices of wood securely and have it look nice look into the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J43A7W
I also purchased this guy to help clean up the massive extension cable that I have in my garage. Totally worth it as well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005A1K1
Also invest in a good pair of safety glasses and dust mask.
A carving knife set, bar clamps, or this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J43A7W?cache=ab9e4531951c0e925f4c7a03a9e4acea&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1411439736&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2
the legs are joined to the "apron" pieces with pocket hole screws. then there are pocket holes facing up in the apron pieces to attach the table top from underneath. A pocket hole jig is typically required to drill the holes for these types of joints; it's very easy to use, and leaves you with no visible fasteners.
The better/proper way to join the legs to the apron pieces would be using dowels or mortise and tenon joints.
All the boards on the top look mis aligned. It looks like just used one screw from the top so they will all turn (and always keep turning is my guess...unless they are glued, but then they are glued crooked :) )
I came to say invest in a pocket jig
It would have helped in a lot of places on this project, and this model has a countersink height (which many people have mentioned)
hey OP, i'll try to answer a few questions for you if i can. i've got a handful of years of experience building custom cabinets, but am no doubt not the foremost on education in this field :)
working with wood is a lot different than working with steel, but it shares some common similarities, as i am sure you know already :)
in all simplicity there are 4 main components of a cabinet, i will use the following as reference in my reply:
a) the main cabinet or box.
b) the face frame
c) the back
d) any removable shelves/doors/etc
1) joinery
when building cabinets, etc i always start with the box
tools required: router, straight cut bit at T" or in this case 3/4", clamps, straight-edge, wood glue, compressor and brad nailer
most material used in cabinetry is usually 3/4" thick, so T=3/4"
once you have all your box material cut to size (there is an easier step you can do, i'll explain in a bit), you'll want to mark all side pieces at proper measurements of non-removable shelves at top of shelf - T. (this usually consist of a top and bottle, but in your multiple cases you'll have a few boxes with hard-fastened shelves in between)
the next step is cutting groves into your side panels for the non-removable shelves to set it.
set your free hand router up so it's cutting 1/2 the depth of T, in this case it will be 3/8". find out how far it is from the fence to the edge of your bit, practicing on a piece of scrap wouldn't hurt.
run the router along the fence cutting groves in each location.
you probably don't want the bottom of the cabinet to hit the floor, i always raise my bottoms so the bottom shelf is flush with the top of the face frame, so make sure to measure twice! :)
anyways once you've done this, you'll have a nice grove to fit your cross-shelves into
glue and nail accordingly.
as far as the intermediate up and down structures, such as the middle in http://i.imgur.com/TG9hwh.png?1, you don't require such groves.
ok moving right along, let's jump to face frame joining
tools required: miter saw, screw gun, pocket hole jig, wood glue, clamps
after you've got your box, you'll be ready to build your face frame
since you don't have a ton of money (who does?) to buy an expensive face frame joiner, Kreg has a nice pocket hole jig which i've used regularly for a while now. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W
cut and rip your face frame components to size, turn over and clamp the jig, drill your pocket holes.. once this is done for the outer-frame, clamp and screw them together using wood glue and some pocket hole screws, kreg provides a few in the kit to get started, and Lowe's will well the kit and the screws you'll need to complete your project.
once you've done the outer frame, move into the inner frame, etc and rinse & repeat.
it's best to do this on a flat level surface you can clamp the two pieces down so they won't move, but don't worry if you're a fraction off from being flush and sticking up a hair, you can fill that with putty and sand down to flush later.
once you've built your face frame and cabinet boxes, you're now ready to glue and nail them together.
2) what wood to use.
a) for cabinet boxes and shelves
if you're going to stain it, you can probably find a decent price on red oak at your local lumber yard, this should range from $40 to $50 a sheet, depending on area
if you're going to paint it or just don't care if you stain it and doesn't have to look fabulous, you can use a cheaper paint-grade Birch plywood, often available from $20 to $40 per sheet and location
b) face frame wood you can use some select grade pine (usually stains and works well even with red oak plywood, of if you find it cheap enough (improbable) some red oak which is usually really pricey)
3) structure
if you groove the main non-removable shelves like i suggested, you won't have a problem.
if this unit were being mounted to the wall you could add some extra "nailers" but that won't be necessary in your situation
i think i've gone over the basic questions you've asked so far. if i've missed something and if you have any questions on anything feel free to ask so i can elaborate more.
it's a really interesting project you have and i'm sure you'll have fun with it.
once again, feel free to reply to me and i will answer as best i can :)
EDIT: oops, i forgot to mention the backs :)
when you're routing the groves in for your shelves, you'll want to provide a grove for the back material as well.
this isn'tnecessary, but it will provide a clean look when viewing the finished piece from the side, as you won't see the 1/4" back material.
a simple 3/8" grove 3/16" deep the length of the sides will suffice
when you mount the back, you can use 1" or less brad nails or a pneumatic stapler if you have one available.
and mount the back BEFORE you mount the front face, frame, as mounting the back is a sure way to square up the unit
you'll mount 1 side first, then 1 bottom to square.
Circular saw and a Kreg jig will go a long way to help her make a bookcase.
Kreg pocket screws would work: http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419825381&sr=8-1&keywords=kreg+pocket
Or you could drill holes from the outside of the frame and countersink screws in that way.
Check out a pocket jig kit. They are about $40 on Amazonhttps://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W?th=1&psc=1
Add a drill, some wood glue, and a few clamps and you can build a nice flat desk that shouldn't buckle or warp. bottem of my desk.
Good luck
I'm in about the same situation as you. I'm making really small/simple stuff right now. ex, a planter box outside, a super simple and plain book case. Thus far, the most useful thing I've found is a Kreg Pocket hole jig. it's like $20-40 and it makes joining lumber at right angles soooo much easier. Dowel joints and biscuits are a pain and I'm in the same situation as you as far as buying a router and table or a table saw. Plus I'm in an apartment so space is a huge issue and storing a table based tool is just not feasible.
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465410628&sr=8-1&keywords=Kreg
They might like something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J43A7W/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/186-2134268-4492466
The casual user can get by just fine with the $40 Kreg pocket hole jig. I do a decent amount of woodworking and it works well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J43A7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458056617&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=kreg+jig&dpPl=1&dpID=41auGxMjmXL&ref=plSrch
Amazing work sir! It turned out fantastic.
EDIT: Check out the Kreg Jig . $40 and well with it! Also on Amazon.
Hey man, looks way better than anything I could build at 15. But since you're asking for some constructive criticism, I'll give a few suggestions.
The one thing I really don't like is the screws on the bottom legs. There are lots of different ways to do this, with varying levels of difficulty.
First would be just counter sinking the screw then filling the hole with wooden buttons. You can pick up a usable set of counter sink bits at harbor freight for $7
Second might be pocket holes. You can get a jig for ~40 bucks. Honestly, this might not be the best option for you. For the price, you could get a lot of other more useful tools.
Third might be a [mortise and tenon joint] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBodzmUGtdw&t=3s). You can make these by hand with a decent hand saw and some chisels, and square. But it its very hard to do without a vise, which is pricey. Also takes a bit more effort and skill. You can also make them with power tools.
You could have made the cutouts for the seat slats a little cleaner. If you get a combo square and chisels. You don't need fancy chisels. These are decent starter chisels if you learn [how to sharpen] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI).
+1 for pocket holes.
http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449595585&sr=8-1&keywords=kreg+jr
I strongly suggest looking into the Pocket Screw jig systems. There are many jigs available from makers like Kraig (expensive) to Harbor Freight. (cheap but functional if you are careful) Amazing for both carcass and face frames. Lost of videos on the Tube about this.
Built custom oak cabinets in a professional shop for several years and we used a Kraig Jig. The sweet thing is that once you glue up and screw down the joint, you can take the clamps off and use them on the next setup.
(Links for example only - NOT affiliate) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvzaGtMsQyY
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482774269&sr=8-3&keywords=pocket+hole+jig+kreg
Kreg Pocket Jig is a little guide that lets you drill and secure a board to another board using pocket screws. This means that if you have two sides of an arcade cabinet, in your awesome arcade shape, you'll be able to affix boards to the inside face of the sides easily. So basically you'll be able to easily and sturdily connect your two sides together, making your frame.
Text will not do the job here, you should look up Kreg Jig on youtube and watch it in action, it will be worth a thousand words.
My assumption is you're going to make shaped sides from plywood (with a jigsaw or similar), then connect them with trusses, using pocket screws, then cover the trusses with plywood. That will give you your cabinet, though the screen and electronics mounting won't be trivial, and I (unfortunately!) can't help you with the electronics.
I strongly recommend picking up a kreg jig, it has paid for itself many times over in less than a year that I've had it.
I used this system - http://smile.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=lp_552488_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1422105125&sr=1-2.
I really liked it as it also allows you to set your depth and distance and just go - all of my pocket holes were made in one sitting. I used it with an Irwin 6" Clamp (http://smile.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-QUICK-GRIP-6-inch-546ZR/dp/B00002244S/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BGS8N79X833JZTM4W81)
Take your pick:
Home Depot
Lowes
Amazon
I'm in the same boat. Apparently Lowe's has sales all the time on the Kreg jig.
The Kreg R3 Jr. seems to be the best option for broke asses like myself. It will probably be what I purchase to finish some of the projects I have around the house.
Wow! Thanks for an awesome reply. Unfortunately I'm not in a position where I can spend much money so I'll have to see if I can find some flea markets near me to buy some stuff at. All this stuff is great info that I need to look at better when I have time where I don't need to be asleep. But while I'm here I want to ask you one thing: What do you think of the Kreg jig? I'm using it to hold on the back of some floating nightstands and also used it heavily on my desk, although on my desk they aren't really load bearing whereas on the nightstands all the weight is going through that backplate first.
Thanks again for the awesome reply :)
Something like this?
You could use wood glue and pocket holes for extra strength on the corner along with the metal brackets.
Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mG9iDbCNN2HRF
The easy but expensive way is to use a bracket like this. Expensive not only because you have to buy one for each joint, but it also doubles the number of fasteners you need. And since you're being wise and using stainless steel fasteners only on your cedar fence, that cost adds up.
Cheaper would be to drill pocket holes into the end of each rail. Put the pocket holes in the face side that will be covered up by the pickets. This does two things: the pocket screw is angled into the meat of the post rather than the side and here you can get away with using cheaper coated screws because they'll be somewhat protected by the picket and if they do bleed, the picket will be in front anyway. Plus it's a much cleaner look.
I like the Kreg K3 for basic homeowner tasks. It's especially great for this because it's easy to move it to the long rails. Pair it with a cheap face clamp and you're set. Throw a little polyurethane construction adhesive in the joint (mostly to keep the water out).
This is how I built my fence. 3 years later and the rails are as tight as ever. I have every confidence that they'll make it to 15 years just fine. Or, rather, if something breaks on this fence, it won't be the rails.
http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=11849T9OC3D6G&coliid=IUHIVR4L8ZJCO