Reddit mentions of Krylon K01303A07 Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating Aerosol Spray, 6 Ounce

If you print them on crack n peel, they won't be able to tear them down so easily.

http://www.amazon.com/Sheet-Diagonal-Compulabel-313053-Compare/dp/B003WZA4B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346488693&sr=8-1&keywords=crack+n+peel

You can get it at any office supply shop. It's basically a big sheet of sticker paper. The downside is that it runs when it gets wet. If you're concerned about that, you could probably spray on a coat of clear varnish after you print them.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346488801&sr=8-1&keywords=clear+varnish

The varnish can be found at any arts and crafts store.

___

The downside to all of this is that it costs more (in effort and cash) per flyer.

Art major here, fixative is a really good idea!

That fixative you linked is resin based, and the shadow would still be a little workable/moveable under that fixative. An acrylic-based fixative spray would work better as a final sealant as it would create an almost plastic-like protective finish on the page: https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01303A-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26 is one example.

No matter what fixative you're using, it's important to do a patch test first because fixatives can darken/alter the color of certain mediums. It's also important to work in light layers in a very well ventilated area!

If hairspray doesn't hold it you should try to find a spray on clear acrylic coat like this. Modge Podge would probably smear all of the lipstick.

Not an expert on painting but they make a spray on clear coat that seals, and also adds a shine to whatever you spray it over!

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26

Plan out your color and drawing first of all. If its something super simple like white, black, red, blue, or yellow, there could just be a primer spray in that color.

So you would just wash the shells with warm water, soap, and one of those yellow/green sponges. as the green scour pad is almost rough enough to remove the top layer of material. Which is about as rough as you want it.

Once theyre clean and dry, hit it with the primer. one good coat from about 12 to 16 inches away should be fine. If you want it really thin, then two single passes (ensuring to cover all of the outside) should suffice.

If the primer is the color you want, then skip this. but if you want a different color, i would suggest Krylon matte spray paints. REALLY THIN COATS, letting it dry in between each one. Until your desired level of color is achieved.

If at any point they begin to "feel" different, you can hit them with a super fine sand paper until they feel nice again.

once your color is down, do your drawing or painting.

Then use a Crystal clear acrylic finish. Similar fashion as to how you applied your primer and paints.

If it goes on too thick, then hit it with a second coat. Let that dry, then hit it with the sand paper.

Clean that off and you can polish it with water and a super fine grit sandpaper.

I've used this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26

or just look up acrylic clear coat

Rather than struggle with print settings, it might make more sense to spray it with a waterproof, clear sealer like this one.

Thanks for the input. Is Crystal Clear some sort of varnish/paint/lacquer? Something like this: Krylon Crystal Clear spray, amazon.com

Why not just spray coat the parts with some type of clear coating to keep the look of everything? Would something like this work to keep the 'look' including the sticker in place as well as the shellac chips as they are? I'm not too knowledgeable on the paint finishing side of life.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26

try using a glossy artist fixative, coat the entire glass so it won't chip away, and use two layers of coat minimum. I've used a matte finish before and that lasted three months, if you aren't using the glass then it should last forever.

Hopefully this will work just fine

Artist fixatives help avoid fading from sunlight, and since I see that's a valid concern in this thread I'd be excited to suggest this product. Us drawing types use this to protect pretty much any type of work and it's held up on my own pictures. The glass I mentioned lated for three months, but I think the fault was that I used a workable matte finish rather than and acrylic glossy. It should coat your glass in a thin film that will protect the signature just fine, if you put it in a display case or a trophy stand it ought to last forever! Hope I helped!

probably just an assload of crystal clear acrylic paint. I have this and it works great.

Amazon link of what I have used - krylon acrylic clear

eBay UK one

Acrylic Coating spray to make sure paintings last forever!

Make a test piece first. Lacquers are typically "hot" paints and it might kill the ink in the signature and make it run. If you can get hold of a similar pen and a piece of plastic or laminate similar to the pickguard, run a test first. Write something on it, let the ink thoroughly dry, the try the clearcoat.

Also, there are different types of clear - matte and gloss.

Best bet might be to go with something like this that's used in photography and art to preserve images and paintings.

It looks similar to what I’ve used before. Just be sure it’s an acrylic paint and not urethane-not good to put certain chemicals in your ears :)

Here’s a link to one I’ve used:
Krylon K01303A07 Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating Aerosol Spray, 6 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001K65K26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cyyCb575YMXY

I’m not sure why, but when I did the spray acrylic, sometimes in about a month it would “glaze” or something - like it seemed like it was separating from the IEM. It might work temporarily, or it might work forever. Hard to say. Low risk to try though!

I have been using mod podge, so that part is good. I haven't been watering it down, though--does that really have any effect on anything?
And as for clear coat, you all mean this, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01303A-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1488255466&sr=8-10&keywords=clear+coat
basically, anyway. I am stupid not to just have figured that out earlier, lol. >_<;. This stuff won't eat my foam, since it has been primed, right?
And I have another question, pertaining to Plasti-Dip:
Can I use regular acrylics on it, and can I apply it OVER mod podge? I have been mod podging everything right now, but I would like to try Plasti-Dip for my elbow armor/over elbow armor, shoe armor, and 'corset' (the armor looks like a corset), so they don't break. Those are the foam pieces I am the most concerned about, because they look like they'd be the most fragile. I have also already put news paper over the elbow piece (there were some areas I needed to fix, so I fixed them, and am using the paper to hide it), and will that work, with the plasti-dip? That is also mod podged, too. Also, does the clear plasti-dip work as well as the other colors? Every video I see uses black, so I thought I'd ask, before buying it.
Also, from what I understand, plasti-dip needs a respirator to be used. I get that. But if I go outside with my work, even if I have one, will the smell get into the house? My mom has respiratory issues, and I am kind of afraid of the smell seeping through the walls because of that.

I have a bunch of F21 jewelry I like. If you're worried about it tarnishing you can use a clear spray, which helps protect the finish. I also love the earrings I got at Gap Outlet, though I'm not sure they have them online.

If she makes it a semi hobby you may want to test a few products as it probably depends on the disc and plastic used.

Of the several I looked up, something like this may be a good bet

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26

It's relatively cheap and acrylic is great as it should prevent nearly everything minus perhaps sun bleaching. It also should be hair thin also making these discs tournament legal.

>3D prints aren't typically water-tight

I didn't know what.

Wouldn't clear coat work as well? Something like https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01303A07-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26

I kinda want to make it easy to deal with since I would like to sell some. Part of the reason why I'm making a bunch of models now is because I'm looking at having a $800 printer. I would like to offset that cost and the cost of materials even if it takes a while

Maybe something like this could help. At least that's what I would buy. All of the wood varnish I would know needs to be applied with a brush, I don't know if yours is the same way. A spray coating like this will make it super easy to not have drips and get a perfect even coating.

This paper is a-ok

but also use this or something like it. Spray multiple times if you're using a lot of ink.

edit: tl;dr: if you're using gloss or vinyl use acrylic coating.

Amazon's acrylic clear, by Krylon. Likely also found at your local Home Depot, Rona, Wal-Mart, Canadian Tire, and possibly Target

I think I figured out a way to get the gloss finish by using: Krylon 6-Ounce Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating Aerosol Spray

the crystals will be covering a 36x40" flat surface. i'm def not using nail polish on all of that. it'd take an eternity. alright, well thank you!

edit: I think this will work: https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-6-Ounce-Crystal-Acrylic-Coating/dp/B001K65K26 and I already have a bunch that i use to preserve paintings, so should be good! let me know if you've heard otherwise about acrylic coating.

Thanks dude! And, yeah that's an awesome design, I think it'd make a cool deck too.

I'll let you in on a secret that took me forever to figure out: the best way to make masking / stencils is to get yourself some transparency sheets, like the kind used for overhead projectors in school, and then take a marker and draw what you want to spray through (best way to make stencils). Then take a 'wood burning kit' (which is just a low-heat soldering gun pretty much) and use it to "trace" your lines on the transparancy sheet, do it light and quick and it'll cut the parts out that you want - afterwards you'll be left with a mask or stencil that's much stronger than paper, easy to clean, and the wood engraver allows you to make more detailed and smoother cuts than if you were masking with tape, or cutting out of cardboard or card stock.

When you finish your painting, you'll want to give it a light coat of clear spray finish, and when that dries hit it with a coact of actual clear coat - I use minwax - that''s 'satin' (which is their way of saying 'matte') listed there but I prefer mine to be gloss. It's important that you hit it with the spray finish first, because it'll seal the paint, and the minwax may cause it to run if you don't. I use a lot of markers in my paintings and minwax will absolutely make them bleed and run if I don't seal them first.

You also want to seal it because the acrylic will easily chip off the deck

Like I said, also be aware that painting on a deck is A LOT different than painting on canvas, the deck will cause the acrylic to paint much faster than canvas so you lose that 'wet period' you normally have to blend paint.

Good luck, post a picture when you finish it! And feel free to drop me a line if you have any other questions.