Reddit mentions of LE Power Adapter, 2A, AC 100-240V to DC 12V Transformer, 24W Switching Power Supply, US Plug Power Converter for LED Strip Light and More

Heatsinks $11
Sonoff switch $14.00
N-Channel MOSFET $8.88
Stickable Breadboard $9.99
LED lights $11.25
Google AIY Voice Kit $12
HDMI $6.99
5V Power Supply $7.99
12V Power Supply $9.99
Raspberry Pi $38
Monitor $69.99
Mirror $129.99

Total : ~$330

So, presumably, you're going to want different sections to have lights which operate independently from each other. Lights in this "room" lights in another "room" lights somewhere else yet. And also, presumably, you don't want it to be "all on" or "all off," but different sections that turn on when players are there, leaving the other sections off.

All sections will require power in order to operate, but it won't be necessary to run power cables willy nilly all over the board for this. Instead, you can run two lines - one positive, and one negative - back to your power source. It's similar to a breadboard in that you have power lines running the full length so you can tap power wherever you need it. I personally would run something like 14AWG wire to a series of screw down terminals, which will be where you connect any "room" circuits up.

I personally would change your design to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The incandescent bulbs will require a much higher voltage, which will require more expensive reed switches, and will also pose more hazard to work with and for the players. It definitely can be done safely at 120V, but it will be less work for better results (that will also last longer) if you switch. Using say, 12V DC for power, you can leave your power rails exposed if you want and it won't be a risk even if someone is touching them.

Here is a hastily drawn wiring schematic for you, which shows one light that would be activated by standing upon 6 different tiles. The black and red lines up top are your power rails. On one end, each of those is connected to a + (red) and - (black) on a power source. I would recommend something like this or even like this depending upon what your actual power requirements end up being. My overwhelming suspicion is your entire board, even if every fixture was lighted, would still be consuming less than 24W (if you go LED!). The cluster of 6 of the same item to the left are a bank of switches. Power is drawn off the + rail, and if any one switch is closed, power will continue to flow to the LED (purple), which is attached to the - rail to close the circuit. This can be scaled up or down almost infinitely - more LEDs on from one switch or switch bank - no problem - more or less switches - no problem. You can make as many of these set ups as you want, and attach them to the same rails - no problem!

To be honest, reading your post it sounds like still have some work to go to reach even a fundamental understanding of electrical circuitry. That's of course ok and not intended as a diss. This is partially why I recommend switching to a lower voltage of DC power (although it is what I would do personally as well), but also I would recommend you continue working on the fundamentals - it will make designing your project a lot easier. Here's a kinda whack video for kids but it's the most digestible one I was able to find in quickly searching. I also found this really cool lab software which will allow you to create simulations of the concepts you've learned about. If you need help or have specific questions, feel free to ask. Also, if you've got a design of your board laid out in a grid and you know where you want lights, switches, etc, I can help you turn that into a wiring diagram.

I did something like that for my Lego shelf. Used some LED strips and a motion sensor module to keep it all automatic. I had no idea what I was doing and bought a bunch of stuff I didn't need, but...

• LED Strip - $7
  
• Cable to run the power across the shelf - $8 (should've just used some spare cabling I had...)
  
• Motion detector - $10
  
• Power plug - $8
  
  And if you're comfortable soldering, that's pretty much all you need to get something up and running. But I wanted to make it all modular so I could take it apart and set it back up without too much hassle. So I ended up buying adapters and coaxial power cable things:
  
  
• Ribbon to coaxial adapter - $5
  
• Coaxial to regular 'ol cable adapater - $7
  
• Power splitter - $6.50
  
  I'm pretty sure I did it as inefficiently and cost ineffective as possible because I have severe amazon impulse control issues and just buy shit to get started on fun projects. I'm sure with a little more research/guidance you could do it a little cheaper. But I'm happy with my setup for now.
  
  and here's a picture of the shelf. The shelf is terrible, and it's all a wreck because I'm in the middle of moving, but it shows the brightness pretty well. Oh and I have about a 1/4 roll of LEDs left, so I'd guess 2 or 3 rolls would take care of your shelf.

120 isn't more expensive per roll than 135, you just pay more per shot which isn't the worst.

that said i had a friend with many very broken chinese made Seagull TLRs so he turned a few of them into flower pots (just use the waist level finder for that) or, which i like more, into a desk lamp. You can use the tripod thread to make a little stand for it, set the camera to bulb and throw an LED spot behind the taking lens. all you then need is a little transformer and some simple wiring and you're in Pinterest heaven! it won't even damage the camera as the heat output from the LEDs won't be too much. you can even dim it with the aperture lever.

Power supply was a 12V, 2A AC to DC converter like in the link below. An adapter is available for these power units that convert the 2.1mm x 5.5mm plug to two pins that can then be wired for positive and negative leads (the power supply linked below comes with one of these). Each bulb had it's own +/- wire that ran to the center fitting. All six positive wires were spliced into a ring terminal. The same was done for the negatives. Each terminal was then attached to the power supply adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Adaptor/dp/B019Q3U72M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504216169&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+power+supply

Just get a 12V power supply instead of trying to drop a 19V power supply down.

I believe that you would need a 3.33Ω resistor that is capable of dissipating 2.1 watts.

The formulas you need are Power (P)= Current (I) Voltage (V) and V = I Resistance (R). I've gotten used to calling them the Russians PIV and VIR

Edit: I agree with the other poster, the relay isn't needed since there is a switch in the system already and the extra battery could be removed. The relay is just an electrically magnetically operated switch

Slightly different form-factor, but you could always get a setup like this for less than half the cost:

LED Flexible Light Strip - $8 Prime

Power supply - $8 Prime

I'm betting someone will come along and tell me there are even cheaper options than the one I linked, especially going through a Chinese site :D

https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Adaptor/dp/B019Q3U72M/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=24W+DC&qid=1572325713&sr=8-3

​

would something like this work?

Based off Inkbird ITC-106RL


Parts:

Controller: Inkbird ITC-106RL
This is 12v so it is easy to use with cheap computer fans and has a built in relay to make for less wiring. Can also be ran off of a battery. Downside of the built in relay is the life span is a little lower, but it is cheap enough and easy enough to replace that I will take the trade off.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS138DM


Power Supply: 12v. Can be a “wall wort” converter or hooked up to any 12v battery. I used an old power adaptor from an external power supply. Just make sure it is 12v output with at least 1 amp.

https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Adaptor/dp/B019Q3U72M/


Fan: At least 5 CFM needs to get to the drum, but keep in mind a lot will be lost going down a valve/pipe/elbow. With this controller it will run the fan as need to maintain the temp, so larger will be fine, but too large can cause problems. I did 80mm computer case fan (with LEDs) with a 3” to 1.5” ABS adaptor hacked up get it funneled into my box. I did this because I wanted the look of a big LED fan and a 80mm LED fan was cheap. I think a lot of the 32 CFM of the fan I used is being wasted with my setup with the funnel and riser pipe, and I am OK with that as I love the look. My 32 CFM fan is running about 30% of the time to maintain temp. I want to be able to glance from the house and see it light up. If you are just going for ease of build I would do 2 40mm fans screwed into the cover of the box. Then you don’t need to make the funnel/adaptor which was hard to make.

Mine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S396YU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easier:https://smile.amazon.com/2packs-0-15A-Brushless-Cooling-AB4010M12/dp/B01CZFUOD0


Temp Sensor: Any “K Type” sensor will do. The controller supports a ton of different types, but a K type is the easiest. I picked this one for the length of the sensor and the spring wire guard for having it on the side of the drum.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/

This one looks great if you want to be able to remove it quickly.

K Type Adjustable Compression Spring Bayonet Sensor Thermocouple 5M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018HX0DLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ls-VzbD60N3WS

I plan on adding a clip using it on the grate as the sidewall is running about 50 degrees hotter than the air around the meat on the top grate. I think I wouldn't make this one my first choice if you going to have it on the grate because of the spring guard and size.

https://smile.amazon.com/BBQ-Butler-Meat-Thermometer-Probe/dp/B01AS23FHE/


Case: 2" Type LB PVC Conduit Body with a pvc plumbing reducer on the bottom to get down to 3/4” pipe thread that connects to my valve (kept so I can shut it down after cooking) and a solid plug on the back drilled out to allow for a wire connector. I didn't glue either of the plugs in so I could take it off the smoker easily and for future upgrades. The holes in the face of the case were cut with a hole saw and jigsaw.

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/conduit-conduit-fittings-raceways/pvc-conduit-fittings/carlon-reg-2-type-lb-conduit-body/p-1444444974150-c-6424.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/pvc-fittings/nibco-reg-2-plug-pvc-schedule-40/p-1444449168970-c-8557.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/pvc-fittings/nibco-reg-2x3-4-spigot-x-female-pipe-thread-reducer-bushing-pvc-schedule-40/p-1444449164005-c-8557.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/conduit-conduit-fittings-raceways/metal-conduit-fittings/sigma-3-4-nm-connector-3-bag/p-1444430908358-c-9538.htm  


Wiring: Image from facebook.com/boganbbq

The ITC-106RL has the same wiring.



I didn’t add the switches as I am just plugging it in or unplugging it. I think I will add a switch for the fan in the future. https://smile.amazon.com/AutoEC-Rocker-Toggle-Switch-Control/dp/B012IJ35VQ/


I had to flip my probe wiring.


You may need to use a multimeter to figure out which wire is hot vs common coming from the power adaptor. Set your meter to 12v and touch the probes to the wires from the adaptor. If you get POSITIVE number close to twelve your positive/red probe is on the positive/”red” wire. If you get a NEGATIVE number on the multimeter you have them switched. I tested the adaptor on the fan first. My fan would not spin/light up with the wires switched.


My final wiring (not in the case):





Controller Settings:

The manual for the ITC-106 is bad. Luckily the IPC-16 is the same system and the manual is much better.

See: http://pmod79883.pic31.websiteonline.cn/upload/IPB-16UserManualA42.pdf


Press SET button for 3 seconds to enter into the main menu, there are Input Parameters, Output Parameters, Alarm Parameters, PID Parameters and Unit Parameters can be selected. Then press shift button to enter into the submenu if need to change the settings.


Here is what I changed to get it working. Everything else is left on the factory settings.


IP -> SC (Sensor Calibration) AS NEEDED. Once you have it running turn it on and put the sensor in the some boiling water. Use this setting to adjust as needed, keeping in mind water boils at different temps depending your elevation. I had to do a + 3.


PID -> CTL (Control Period) to 15 seconds. Basically, the system will check the temp every 15 seconds and then run the fan for the amount it guesses it will need to keep the temp correct. Lower time is more accurate temp, but on/off cycles for the relay, and it is only rated for 100,000 cycles. I think I will test this at 30 seconds and 60 seconds in the future. 15 worked well and had about a 1-2 degree swing. I am ok with more of swing if it means less wear and tear on the built in relay.


UNITS TO F if think in those terms.


In the future I will play with the autotune/self-tuning function and will add an update for that if I can figure it out and get noticeably better results.


You are done. Light your smoker, power up the controller and set your temp (you can hold the up and down buttons or use the select button and move the decimal point to change by 100s, 10s or 1s). Bottom number is your set point, top is the current temp.


I leave my 2nd valve open till 200 degrees to help the drum get to temp faster, then I closed it and let the controller do the rest, but you can start with just the fan open and walk away if you want. Exhaust open all the way. It ended up running the fan about 5 seconds on, 10 seconds off to maintain 225 degrees.

> You can use any 12V power supply 700mAh or above, the screen will just draw what it requires.

This is correct, I've used these power supplies for LED and other 12v projects. This should power it fine.

You could get some of these lights which run on 12 volts and can be cut to any length you like (at the provided cut marks). https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Celebration-Decoration/dp/B00HSF66KS

Then you just need to decide how to power them. An external adaptor or plugged into the PC power supply using a spare Molex LP4 connector?

The external 12v power adapter is simpler and requires no wiring skills, but it does require you bring power in from outside the case and may require drilling a small hole in your computer case. (lights will be on whenever the adapter is plugged in.)

If you know how to solder you can cut the plug off of a Molex LP4 splitter and solder it to the light strip. That will allow you to plug your lights directly into your PC's power supply. (lights will only be on when the computer is running.)

If soldering is not an option, you can attach a male 2.1x5.5mm DC Power Cable Jack Adapter to the yellow and black wires on the Molex LP4 splitter plug. And use that to plug in your lights.

(edited to clarify my wording a bit)

My maglock runs off 12 or 24v so I just got a 12v transformer. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Adaptor/dp/B019Q3U72M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501804560&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+transformer

You have to find out what kind of power your mag lock needs. It's probably listed on the maglock somewhere.

To power the lights you can just use a 12v power supply like this.

And if you want to use an arduino to turn it off and on, you can just use a simple relay like this

Personally I think this solution is a little simpler and less confusing than messing with a mosfet etc... But the other solutions that people have mentioned in this thread will work too.

If you're still looking. I'd recommend using a simple 12V DC power adapter like this, and putting the female port it comes with on the back of the console, then you can wire 12V LEDs and fans to this instead of trying to use the built-in power supply. it's only 24W, so I'm not sure how much you could do with this one, but you can probably find something with more power.

EDIT: I realized fans and LEDs don't use very much power, so that should be fine. Adding in some small 80mm or 60mm fans to the CPU and GPU heatsinks and wiring LEDs to this should be fine. I would even wire switches for the fans and LEDs separately so I could turn them on and off if I wanted.

I'd say DC, don't risk using AC. Here's my thought process:

I can't see a rectifying bridge. That type of connector is usually used with DC. It does't have a transformer, so, if it was the case, it would be referring to 12Vrms AC, which is not very common to run by. I think it wants you to use an AC/DC 12v converter.


Use this

Edit: Don't forget to check if it provides enough power (Watts), though.

We've historically used computer fans, which obviously don't plug into an outlet, but a simple DC adapter (like this one on Amazon or pick one up at basically any electronics store or like look around your house your old router or whatever likely used one) will fix that. You cited time concerns in not wanting to use an inverter, but honestly this shouldn't add more than, say, 5 minutes, especially if you're already making a trip to the store/waiting on shipping from the internet for the fan.

EDIT: Just to clairify, pretty much any adapter that says "Output: 12 V DC" on the back will work (assuming you have a 12V fan, which most seem to be)

There are lot of 12V psu with those 5mm plugs on amazon.
Yours was capable of 300mA. It's no problem if you get a new one that is capable of higher output current.

If the end that goes into the fountain is the same type of plug but male, you can just get one that has an implemented cable with male output plug. Example. Just be sure about the right plug dimensions, like /u/Pocok5 said.

edit: Your psu says 12V AC. That's odd. The one I linked is DC, so nevermind. This one would be an example for 12V AC.

So if I order two of these they will work?

Here's a simple idea that's electrical rather than mechanical...

Buy this electromagnetic lock and this power supply and this remote controlled outlet.

The bare wires of the lock easily click into the green plug of the power supply. Then you plug that into the remote controlled outlet.

The two metal parts of the lock magnetize together when electricity is present, and come apart when there's no electricity. The remote toggles electricity on/off.

So you build a box or use an existing door, and mount the two metal parts of the lock to it to secure it.

Players find the remote elsewhere in your game. Then upon clicking the remote they unlock the electromagnetic lock. For greater effect, install a spring in the box so that the box lid flies open upon clicking the remote!