#6 in Sculpture supplies
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Reddit mentions of Life Casting Starter Kit With Alja-Safe Alginate

Sentiment score: 4
Reddit mentions: 5

We found 5 Reddit mentions of Life Casting Starter Kit With Alja-Safe Alginate. Here are the top ones.

Life Casting Starter Kit With Alja-Safe Alginate
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    Features:
  • Comes with: 0.85 lb. Alja-Safe Molding Gel - the world’s first and only crystalline silica free alginate (a known carcinogen), 2 lb. casting plaster, Quick Start Guide
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height4.9 Inches
Length7.8 Inches
Width5 Inches

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Found 5 comments on Life Casting Starter Kit With Alja-Safe Alginate:

u/LadyPseudonymia · 4 pointsr/SexToys

I totally agree with your gf, I think 20A (what Clone-a-Willy uses) is way too high a shore durometer for realism.

The hardness of an actual erection averages about 10A shore. So once you make an alginate mold, you can pour Smooth-On Dragon Skin 10 silicone into that. If your gf wants the dildo to be squishy and have a soft, skin-like feel, then Dragon Skin 00-50 is a better choice. 00-30 is going to be super-duper squishy and even floppy.

Those silicones are the best choices because they're certified skin-safe.

Unfortunately, you may always have occasional air bubbles if you're not vacuum-degassing silicone.

u/hungrockhunk · 3 pointsr/SexToys

I agree with /u/redsnappa127 . The materials that make up the clone willy kit are standard life-casting materials. Search for molding alginate on amazon. You can get a pound of alginate for $15 http://amzn.com/B007PULSRM or you get get 4lbs from Smooth-on which is the company that professional body casters use for $32: http://amzn.com/B000QCM27Q or from smooth-on: http://www.smooth-on.com/Life-Casting-Alja-/c3_1185/index.html?catdepth=1

Then you need a platinum cured silicone which is the more expensive part $38: http://amzn.com/B00EOA25X2 or www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1115_1131/index.html?catdepth=1

SmoothSil 940 is platinum cured and food safe so it should be safe to make into a dildo.

You just need a molding container and that would be easy to make out of an old water bottle, the 1L smart water bottles would be good as they are decently sized and smooth sided.

u/TheThinboy · 2 pointsr/Metalfoundry

Quick and dirty, this can work, it is uses relatively easily available and cheap materials, and can give reasonable results. There might be some cracks or flashing in the finished hand but the can be filed out relatively easily. However you need a dedicated oven for a good few days.

Use either alginate to make a hand mold, they sell kits
Be aware the alginate molds do degrade rapidly, and are generally unusable in less than a day. If you send one to your sister, have her make the hand in plaster then make a simple gauze mold of the plaster positive.

or..

Buy plaster infused gauze and do a quick 2 part mold around the hand using it. Lay hand flat do one side, with a bit of gauze to form a parting lip, wait to set up, flip hand over, grease the lip, and do the other side. Then remove it carefully reinforce it enough to hold wax.

Ideally you want to end up with a void you can do a slush casting. Heat the wax (preferably microcrystalline, or beeswax, but paraffin can do in a pinch) Melt it in a double boiler for safety, do not over heat the wax. Pour in enough to fill the mold, then wait maybe 10 15 seconds and dump it out. Repeat the process until you get about an 1/8 " thick shell of wax.


Remove the wax from the mold carefully, and fix any issues that you may have. for quick and dirty I would simply plan on using the wrist as a all purpose pour cup, vent/sprue. I would attach the wrist to a square of cardboard wix wax to make the wax easier to handle for the next steps.

Mix up dry 50/50 by weight, plaster (buy a 50lbs bag from a home store for $12-15) and silica flour (might be able to find locally at pottery supply or if flour is too difficult to find, use as fine as possible silica sand). This will be your investment.

Mix a small amount thinly and paint it on the surface of the hands, essentially making a very thin shell. This will help prevent bubbles from forming. Once the thin layer is on, Mix up a thicker mix and layer it on about a half inch thick. I usually would wrap it with some hardware cloth or steel wire about now. It will help the mold from cracking apart when heated. It does not need to be extremely tight it is just there to provide reinforcement. You can then cast or lay on a thicker mold around it. For a hand sized piece should for roughly 1" minimum plaster all the way around. The thicker the mold the longer it will take to dry out in the oven.


After the plaster is set I would give it a day, then in a 200 F ish oven melt out the wax. put a pan of water under and watch it like a hawk. The wax will melt and float on top, and the steam can help transfer the heat to the mold. This is a fire hazard so watch it. It will probably take a few hours. Once the wax is all out (this will melt out quicker as a slush mold vs solid wax) turn up the heat to 350, and cook it for 6-8 hours, then take it up to the max temp usually about 500 and cook it for at least 24 hours, more if possible, and more if considerably thicker than an inch. Long story short, you want all the free water gone.. Unless your oven goes over 600, there will be some H20 still chemically bonded in the plaster, but it should not matter too much if you drive off all free water. You can melt out and cook the mold ahead of time, but they will reabsorb moisture from air if not kept in hot dry place.

When you are ready to pour, you will want to pour these mold while still hot straight from the oven, and buried up to the top in sand ideally in something like a steel bucket. The sand will ensure nothing will seep out if the mold cracks. Level the wrist opening so it will cast evenly.

Be forewarned and perform at your own risk. Wear full protective layer of clothing, mask and head covering. These type of molds could easily trap moisture and cause a pop and send molten metal flying in the air that rain downs upon you. This can sometimes happen up to a minute or so after they are poured. Pour the aluminum in slowly, and if it starts to spit or pop up out of the mold, just stop. The mold is too wet to pour and needed to be dried further.


u/bunchies · 1 pointr/sex

As other commenters have said, don't bother with clone-a-willy. But that doesn't mean all is lost! If you get this (or some other bag of alginate, you dont need the plaster) and this it's a little more complicated/you might need to practice casting something else first, but overall it works much better. I've tried both and it's definitely a better silicone, and for me the casting gave way better detail. All can feel free to PM for... detail😉 and some pointers I guess