Reddit mentions of MG Chemicals 8341 No Clean Flux Paste, 10 milliliters Pneumatic Dispenser (Complete with Plunger & Dispensing Tip)

Regardless of how it looks, the only important thing is that it functions. Congrats for that. I would recommend keeping a cheat sheet with the old cap values since the SMD caps don't really tell you their values (in case they ever go bad) :)


The only real suggestion I can make is:
LEARN TO USE FLUX <3


Those pointed bits of solder would get fixed if you put a dab of flux on the blob and touch it with the iron. :D


That's my only critique.


I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Clean-Paste-Syringe/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483361217&sr=8-1&keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean+flux

Some videos on soldering:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY

In addition to the videos from /u/analog-dan https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3W-LdbWcGFSddiOtl1bWQ/videos, you can also watch the videos from /u/advicevice https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChbLnX8JcsN9bH4BNgJZ6wA/videos

Epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBV46/

Solder I'd recommend: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJX6/

Additional paste flux: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2/

Do you have a soldering station/iron? If so which one, if not would recommend the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8/

Need anything else just ask

I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like):

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-D08-D12-D24-D32/dp/B00C1N30DI Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO Leaded solder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPGFT8 Brushes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K Side cutters

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2 Flux

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2 Solder Wick

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HT2QW KimWipes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5JT8C Isopropyl Alcohol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CU56KM Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G5T9M0 Jewelers loupe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019SLLOMY Tweezers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8Z4RPG Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)

Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.

Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!

Although not the cheapest, ebay is probably the easiest way to find faulty systems.

Some equipment recommendations:

• A TS100 soldering iron. I use a more expensive Hakko FX888-D, but I've heard great things about this one for the price. Try to get a chisel tip for general purpose use, it has a balanced combination of size and heat transfer.
  
• iFixit 64-bit toolkit, for handling all the various screws you'll encounter.
  
• Soldapullt desoldering pump. Don't bother with the Chinese knock-offs, they seem to break easily.
  
• Fine 63/37 solder. One roll will last you a long time. Don't bother with cheap Chinese solder, it will not have the advertised metal composition and give poor results.
  
• I like this flux, but it's kind of pricey.
  
• Desoldering braid is essential.
  
• Neoteck multimeter. Very good for the price.
  
• If you need to remove SMD components, a 858D hot air station available under various Chinese brands you've never heard of. Kind of sketchy, but works and has not burned down my home yet.

You basically just traded a big snotty cold joint for a little dry cold joint.

Tip: If you're not crazy talented at soldering, there's no shame in using a little externally applied flux to get a properly flowed joint.

This video is particularly good (check out the first two as well)

One particular point to keep in mind with this is that you can't go amiss with flux. Something like this. And when you do the surface mount parts, make sure you use some.

Here's an assembly video. It seems pretty well put together, the guy uses SMDs, so you'll get to see that process.

If you want to go ahead with a real reflow, grab some high temperature flux and a decent heatgun that you can adjust the temperature on.

First, you'll want to mask off the other surrounding components with Kapton tape or foil tape to insulate them. Next, squirt a thin line of flux along three of the four edges of the chip. When you start heating the chip, the flux will melt and flow under the chip. Get your heat gun and start at a low output tempurature and slowly ramp it up. Eventually, you'll want to maintain a temperature of 220°C for about 30 seconds. If you dont have a diffuser to cover the entire chip evenly, you'll want to move the tip of the heatgun in a regular pattern to maintain even temperature across the chip.

After you've finished the reflow, let the card cool off slowly for about 15-30 minutes

That iron isnt going to win any awards, but it will probably be enough to get the job done, I personally use a TS100 these days because I can power it off my LiPo Flight battery's in the field as well as off a laptop power brick. I still have my Weller station but it's seen decades of abuse by my dad before he gave it me, so i only use it when I'm at home with lots of big solder joints to do.

Get a decent tip cleaner those sponges are worthless and will cool the iron.[1]


Make sure your solder has good quality Flux core OR or you can buy some better solder / buy flux seperatly

I personally use this but you can get stuff cheaper

I can't stress this enough, If you have never soldered before, practice tinning wires/ soldering through hole connectors until your solder joints look neat and shiny and you feel happy, buying a couple of led's headers and protoboard will save you the pain of ruining your shiny new PCB kit.
Adafruit has some nice images to help compare good/bad solder.

[1] - added comment about sponges

No problem! Happy to help. I study computer science, but there's something about soldering that has always given me a greater sense of accomplishment than any code I write, so I'm happy to see your excitement towards it as well.

That's the same soldering station that I use, so you're good there. Great tip with a nice, fine point. Perfect for soldering to small pads, as you plan to. I prefer straight tips, but that's just preference and you may or may not like your chosen tip better.

You're definitely going to need some other materials. I would provide links to them all but I'm on mobile and that would be a huge pain in the ass. Things you will need:

• Desoldering braid
  
• Flux (the most important thing to have, this is worth its weight in gold)
  
• Leaded solder (lower melting point, heat kills components so the less heat you have to apply the better, always)
  
• 28 awg wire should work for this application
  
  
  Like I said in the list, the less heat you need the better. When you're desoldering the connector, the best way to go about this would be to put leaded solder over top of the existing solder so that they mix which will decrease the melting temperature required for the successive desoldering attempts.
  
  I also suggest a hot air station if you're wanting to really get into this kind of stuff. It may even be necessary for a beginner to desolder this type of connector without damaging the board, honestly. I use this hot air station and it's been fantastic.
  
  If you have any more questions I'll be happy to answer them.

Yeah if it came with a kit it's probably lead-free. I'd just get a pound of 63/37 or 60/40 tin/lead rosin core solder, small diameter. Kester is my go-to. Super easy to work with and a pound should last you years. This is my go-to flux. Pricey but the two in combination actually make soldering enjoyable.

60/40 rosin core should be good.

Alpha Fry AT-31604 60-40 Rosin Core Solder (4 Ounces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030AP48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BhXXzbASH0FHM

Use solder wick and a wide tip to clean the old solder off

NTE Electronics SW02-10 No-Clean Solder Wick, #4 Blue, .098" Width, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195UVWJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9eXXzb1S3RHKS

Use lots flux. Coat the area before you use the wick and again before you solder. It helps bond the solder to the metal.

MG Chemicals No Clean Flux Paste, 10 ml Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mgXXzbTRM5G78

A good iron helps so very much. This is what I have

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RiXXzb76H6WDS

However this should do for occasional use

Vastar 60W 110V Welding Soldering Iron with Adjustable Temperature Dial, 5pcs Interchangeable Different Soldering Iron Tips and Solder Tube for Soldering Repaired Usage, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RCB7KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_slXXzbQRJVVZ2

When you are done clean with 90% or above isopropyl alcohol and let dry before you use.

Watch some videos on how to use the wick. Its a great tool to have and works so much better than the crappy suckers.

The soldering station you're looking at will be fine for replacing capacitors. Its adjustable, which will come in handy when you want to further your skills. Get some extra tips, and find some fine point ones. I like to use long conical ones, as well as long small flat ones.

As other posters have said, you want to practice on something you don't necessarily want to keep. Find something cheap from a thrift store and take it apart.. an old clock radio, vcr, something of that sort. Then identify the capacitors and give it a go. Once you get the hang of it, try on the genesis.

Solder - you want some 60/40 solder (60%tin 40%lead). Stay away from acid core, its not for electronics. Find this in a thin gauge, you'll have a better time with it.

Flux - nice to have around. On some joints, the old solder doesn't really like to flow all that well. You can put some flux on it, and it'll flow a bit better. Use it on the new joint as well. There's several different types, and you can get lost in it, but you really want a liquid or gel type flux that is "no clean". I still give it a rinse with alcohol and a brush after I'm finished, but it cleans up way easier than regular flux. Here's what I use : MG Chemical's Paste flux

You will also need something to remove the old solder from the holes. Tools like this Vacuum pump and desoldering wick like Desoldering wick are good for removing the old solder.

As for the actual removal and replacement of the capacitors, I usually heat up one side from the bottom of the board, and rock the cap so it slides out a bit, then do the other side, working the cap out a little at a time. After that I clear the hole with a vacuum pump (while heating the solder up, get the vacuum pump as close as possible and press the button) or the desoldering wick (put the wick on top of the solder, then heat both, pull the soldering iron and the wick off at the same time, lest you pull up traces - This takes a bit more practice to perfect)

Make sure you put the new capacitor in correctly. Electrolytic caps are polarized. You want to make sure positive goes to positive and negative to negative. Look at the cap before you remove it. Most boards are marked, but no reason to risk the board being marked wrong.

Make sure the caps you're using are the proper rating. A general rule is the capacitance needs to be the same (farad rating), and the voltage rating needs to be at least the rated, but can be higher with no ill effects.

Its late and I'm rambling. Hope this helps.

As others have said, SMD hand soldering is very doable. I just want to add BUY SOME GOOD NO CLEAN FLUX. Paste flux is the most fun you can have with a syringe outside of heroin. Really it makes everything easier. Just make sure to give a good alcohol cleaning afterwards to get off residue.

Ok, so there are a lot of things I'd probably change :)

​

Motors - SabotageRC Booty 2306-2300kV, they're cheaper and significantly higher quality than the DYS you're looking at (they are made by DYS, as well, but with much higher quality components and build quality)

​

ESC - beware Racerstar. Some things they OEM and you get a good product for a good price, but others you get significant drops in quality. I would pay a few cents more apiece and get Spedix ES-20 Lite ESCs.

​

VTX - the one you selected is decent, but your soldering skills need to be up to par, the wires come undone from the VTX extremely easily and are incredibly difficult to reattach. I would recommend a few dollars more to get an AKK VTX with either larger pads or a connector.

​

VTX antennas - There are better ones out there. Lumenier Axii is one of the best and most durable (and significantly lighter), pagoda antennas being slightly better in some regards but more fragile.

​

Radio - The Turnigy Evolution is about the same price now and is a better choice than the FS-i6. Still uses the Flysky AFHDS2A protocol, so it will work with the receiver you selected (and there are now others that are good, as well). If the phonebook style radio appeals to you, then the i6 is the only cheap choice, but keep in mind it is a CHEAP radio, not an inexpensive one.

​

Wire - I would suggest ordering some 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 gauge wire from Hobbyking (as much as they suck, they're the only place that sells lengths of wire inexpensively). Getting 1m of each wire in both black and red should only be 10-15 bucks IIRC.

​

Power supply for charger - get a supply that is at least 19v and 200 watts, like this: https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-LRS-200-24-211-2W-Switchable/dp/B00YMA7I7C/ it is a few dollars more, but you can also run your charger at its full output, which will come in handy for charging your batteries in a timely fashion.

​

Soldering iron - get a quality one, you're going to need it. https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/

​

You should also get some no-clean flux: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-milliliters-Pneumatic-Dispensing/dp/B00425FUW2/

​

Decent solder: https://www.amazon.com/MAIYUM-63-37-solder-electrical-soldering/dp/B076QF1Y85/

​

And a tip cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Wire-type-soldering-cleaner/dp/B00FZPGDLA/

​

That should get you well on your way - still on a budget, but you'll hate yourself WAY less when you go to build it and have decent equipment. :)

Just a little PSA I used this stuff as a micro solder tech and it’s awesome. https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-milliliters-Pneumatic-Dispensing/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1549255535&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=solder+flux+syringe&dpPl=1&dpID=210ZqIs41HL&ref=plSrch

Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020" 3/4oz Dispense-Pak http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Dispense-Pak/dp/B00AYJ0B7Y/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395671772&sr=1-7&keywords=kester+44


Desoldering Wick - 2mm http://www.amazon.com/Aven-17541-Desoldering-Wick-Width/dp/B003E48ERK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395672458&sr=8-3&keywords=desoldering+braid


No Clean Flux Paste http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Clean-Paste-Syringe/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395672365&sr=8-2&keywords=flux

Solder Tip Cleaner

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Solder-Cleaning-Holder/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395673163&sr=8-1&keywords=solder+tip+cleaner

You're getting some great advice here, and I'm glad you're enjoying the process of learning to solder! I thought I'd copy a previous post of mine going over my favorite fluxes. Maybe it'll be useful to you as well!

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Certainly not the same. Over time you'll acquire a number of fluxes that you use for different things. You'll want different types depending on the kind of soldering you're doing, or if you're trying to ensure compatibility (i.e. with a flux-cored solder) between fluxes. I mostly use no-clean but rosin fluxes are great. You're supposed to clean them off but there are plenty of 30 year old boards with rosin flux residue on them that work fine. A note on flux pens, I personally hate them. I'm referring to the ones that are built like those paint markers with the tip you need to push in to get it to flow. Very overpriced for the amount of flux and they never work right. Bonkote brush pens are the best, but unfortunately expensive. They are however refillable and the brush tips are replaceable and relatively cheap. The cheap dispenser bottles work great as well but for very thin fluxes are easier to make a mess with.

Here are my go-to fluxes:

• MG Chemicals RA Flux - This is a classic. Cheap, very effective. Very sticky and easily clogs flux pens/dispenser bottles, but great stuff.
  
  
• MG Chemicals No-clean Paste Flux - Great stuff, I prefer it to the Chip Quick paste flux although that's also quite good and a little more tacky. This is a thicker flux than the liquid rosin stuff, good for removing bridges and such. I transfer any flux that comes in a syringe to a 3mL syringe. Smaller syringe means you use less force to get more pressure, easier to dispense from small needles. Stick 2 syringes together - nose to nose - with a half inch length of silicone tubing. Let's you get maximum flux volume without entrapped air that will cause oozing.
  
  
• Kester 186 RMA Flux - Slightly less active than the MG Chemicals RA but very good. Thinner and easier to dispense. Side note, this seller (Tekline) also has a great eBay store. Only way to get some of these fluxes without buying a gallon of flux or one of those shitty overpriced flux pens.
  
  
• Edsyn FL22 No-clean Paste Flux - By far the best paste flux I've ever used. Nothing comes close for removing difficult solder bridges. It's not cheap though so I reserve it for tough situations.
  
  
• Kester 959T No-clean - Great general purpose no-clean flux. Very thin, like water. It's a true no-clean flux if a board goes through a reflow cycle - it completely disappears if you don't overdo it. It's also excellent for dip-soldering if you use a solder-pot, which is what it is intended for (wave-soldering).
  
  I have a water soluble flux that I use as well Kester 2331-ZX but you must clean all traces of it off before you put boards into service, so it only comes out rarely.
  
  Flux - like solder - is one of those things that seems expensive when you buy the good stuff, but unless you're a CM buying drums of it the cost-per-use is so low that it makes no sense to fuss with the cheap shit IMHO.
  
  And speaking of flux, if you want clean shiny boards then consider getting some flux remover. The best I've used so far is Techspray E-line Universal Cleaner. Used to use MG Chemicals Heavy Duty Flux Remover but this beats the pants off it - does the job in 5 minutes where the MG would take half an hour. Rosin-fluxes clean easily unless you reflow them or let them get baked on. No-clean fluxes don't usually need to be cleaned - hence the name - but if you use rosin flux to rework a board (i.e. solder through-hole parts onto a board that was reflowed with no-clean) and then use bad flux remover, the no-clean will turn into a white powdery film that's very unattractive and hard to clean. Thus a good flux remover is handy.
  
  If you're careful with it you can really stretch it out. I recommend against the aerosol cans of flux remover. While they can work well they're expensive and very wasteful, and by the time you clean off a particularly challenging flux you'll have emptied the $20 can.
  
  EDIT: One little trick that most EEs I've met aren't aware of - pick up a little bit of straight phosphoric acid. It works like magic if you ever need to solder to bare aluminum, steel, or stainless steel. You could probably use an acid flux (usually intended for plumbing) but I can't imagine it being any better than regular old cheap phosphoric acid. You'll never get regular flux and solder to wet steel, but this makes it just as easy as soldering anything else.

Yep, around 1:56. Here's an example of stuff you can get from Amazon: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2

Sorry for the late reply. First of all, take all of this with a grain of salt. This is my first build, so I am by no means an expert. You should definitely look in to all this on your own rather than blindly trust my purchases.
Here are the tools I got in my Amazon order:

• Wire Stripper
  
• No Clean Flux Paste
  
• XT60 Connectors
  
• 60/40 Rosin Core Solder
  
• Loctite Threadlocker 242 (blue)
  
• Weller 40 Watt soldering station
  
• Solder tip cleaner
  
• Helping hand with LED
  
• Bullet connectors
  
• Liquid electrical tape
  
• Heatshrink variety pack
  
• Chisel tip for soldering iron
  
• Servo cables
  
• 12/14/16 AWG silicone wire
  
• Zip ties
  
  I hope this helps.
  
  

I use flux on everything I solder and it helps a lot.

I bought this in 2015 and have built MANY quads and other electronics, still half of it left. A little goes a long way.

This is what I'm using, still working on my technique. The POS terminal on the sled has 4 wires soldered to it, so it doesnt look so good :P

P.S. It also doesn't help I stayed up all night building this.

If you can't get it with a Q-tip, it's nothing to worry about. Grab yourself a soldering iron on Amazon, as well as some quality solder and flux. I will link some in an edit to this comment in a few minutes. Also, screw everyone else in this thread, that is damn near the perfect amount of thermal paste.

EDIT: Here are my recommendations and reasons!

​

SOLDERING IRONS:

Cheapo soldering iron:

​

https://www.amazon.com/GLE2016-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Different/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1554943755&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

This one will do you some good for the quick fix, although I can't speak to the longevity of the iron or its ability to melt some of the higher temperature solders that factories use.

​

More expensive (but WAAAAAAY BETTER) iron:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1554943755&s=gateway&sr=8-6

​

This is a great soldering iron if you think electronics is something you'd like to get into. Quality replaceable tips are available, and it has a stand and comes with a cleaning sponge. I've used these, and absolutely love them. Honestly though, if this is going to be one of very few times you solder, just go for the cheap one.

​

​

​

SOLDER:

​

The cheap iron comes with some solder, and honestly you can probably get away with that for this one repair. If you decide to get the more premium iron though, here is some good solder:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-22lbs/dp/B01B61TWGY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=solder&qid=1554944194&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

OR (I've never used this particular solder but MG chemicals is a great brand)

​

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Diameter/dp/B004258YDE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean&qid=1554944408&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

​

I usually stick to smaller diameter solders because you have a lot more control over how much you're putting onto a joint. This stuff is good, but really you just need to make sure it's lead solder because it melts a lot easier and is easier for beginners to work with.

​

​

​

FLUX:

​

If you want your joints to form and form well, you need some flux. At least coming from me, this is mandatory. Here's some good no-clean flux that you can use that will mostly evaporate off and shouldn't be much fuss to clean.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Paste-10-milliliters-Pneumatic-Dispenser/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean&qid=1554944408&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

​

​

TUTORIAL:

Although kind of slow, here's a pretty good soldering guide. This relates more to soldering electrical components, but most of the lessons remain the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpkkfK937mU

​

Best of luck!

I got some of this to try out. I wanted the syringe type instead of a tub and brush.

I worked as a gaming console repair tech for a couple years and have modded probably over 100 xboxes at this point. Here's some tips I've learned.

> How can I avoid causing permanent damage to the machine?

Get a decent iron. Something $60 or more. The cheap ones from walmart and such are a waste of time and money. Spend a little bit more and you'll save time and aggravation. Get something with enough power to stay hot while you're using it. Get one that has a usable temperature control (not just a 20-watt or 40-watt switch but something that gives the temp reading in degrees). Get something that lets you change tips and get something that has small/precise tip options. A good cheaper option is the Auoye int 2900. I used that one for years before upgrading to a better one. Try to keep it hot enough to melt the solder, but not much higher. More heat = higher risk of damaging something. Use flux and use it often. I use MG Chemicals 8341 No Clean Flux Paste just about every time I solder something. Keep the tip clean. Clean it often while you're working. A lot of folks will use a wet sponge but that's not ideal (temp change can reduce lifespan of the tip). Use a brass-wire one instead like this one. Try to not over-do it with the solder. Use enough to form a secure connection, but don't use so much that there's a big blob leftover on the wire when you're done. I usually dab a small amount of solder on my iron, then add more once the tip is on/next to the spot I'm working on.

> Can this be done indoors, if a window is open?

Sure. I usually open a window and run a box fan in the window blowing air outside, plus a ceiling fan. I also wear a facemask. It helps to be conscious of your breathing. I'll take a breath in, then get over my work and tap where I need to while exhaling, and I'll to try to turn my head away from my working area when inhaling just to limit fume inhalation. Ideally, you'd have a fume extractor, but those are often expensive.

> What protective equipment do I need?

I usually wear a mask/respirator and eye shields and that's about it. I'll sometimes wear an anti-static wristband but static hasn't been a big issue in my working area.

> What's the best way to setup a hard drive?

This doesn't require soldering but I'll comment anyways. My preferred workflow is to softmod the Xbox, then do a TSOP flash, then drop in a new hard drive and use a disc like HeXen to format the drive. Your 1.6 xbox cannot be tsop-flashed, so you'll you can either install a modchip (more difficult) or just setup your new hard drive with the softmod files on it (easier). You can use the app Chimp to clone a small hard drive to a bigger one and it doesn't require a modchip to be installed. If you don't have a modchip/tsop-flash, then make sure you lock the new hard drive after you're done.

> Where would you suggest looking for a 'soldering mentor' of sorts, if need be?

Soldering isn't all that hard. I never had a mentor. I just screwed around in my room until I got the hang of it. It seems harder than it is before you actually start doing it. You just need to take your time, use tools that are good enough, use the proper temperature (not crazy high), clean your tools as you go, use flux, and try to keep a steady hand. You can look up YouTube tutorials and stuff, but I didn't. I used to teach console repair when I did it professionally a few years back and I used to teach people who had no prior experience. Once you've done it a couple times, you'll see that it's not that hard. Feel free to practice connecting wires to broken electronics you have just to get the muscle memory down.

I use this stuff and clean the part with a toothbrush and alcohol after soldering:

http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Clean-Paste-Syringe/dp/B00425FUW2

IMO You can never have too much flux, but its very common for people to not use enough.

You can absolutely FLOOD all the contacts you want to solder with flux. I wasn't joking when I said there's no such thing as too much :). I will say that you should clean up when you're done with 99% isopropyl. I don't even like to leave no-clean flux on a board (it feels sloppy).

Flux cleans the contacts you're soldering to and surface tension helps draw the solder to what you want it to stick to. It makes the process of soldering way easier. I like to keep both a pen of flux as well as a syringe full of flux in gel form, but I seem to use the gel a whole lot more: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-8341-10ML-Clean-Syringe/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523147159&sr=8-3&keywords=no+clean+flux&dpID=210ZqIs41HL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Also, in the future if you bridge pins by accident, it's a good idea to clean the iron's tip with a wet sponge, apply some flux on the solder shorting the pins, and the "brush" it off with your tinned iron. You want to follow the direction the pins are going with your iron to sort of "wipe" it away. Keep trying this until you get the short off.

Wish I could upvote you 1000 times. the flux needles are money too

For future situations, I highly reccomend, buying this: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-milliliters-Pneumatic-Dispensing/dp/B00425FUW2?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_10704395011_4&pf_rd_p=d35cdc17-a5b5-5f92-966c-e8649e5eb85d&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=10704395011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=FT4EK0NPGCKWTQW77PJV&pf_rd_r=FT4EK0NPGCKWTQW77PJV&pf_rd_p=d35cdc17-a5b5-5f92-966c-e8649e5eb85d for $10 Plus this iron for $20 https://www.amazon.com/HAKKO-Soldering-electronic-board-FX511-01/dp/B0072QN66U/ref=sr_1_32?keywords=hakko&qid=1564415393&rnid=16310161&s=hi&sr=1-32

and whatever solder you can find and I swear you will become a soldering expert in no time. It all comes down to having the right flux, everything else is easy if you have the right flux.

additional parts
ribbon cable
Pro micro 3 pack
solder
Flux
Solder Wick
EDIT
In case you lose your marbles