Here are the specs:

Type|Item|

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4820K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler | Corsair H105
Thermal Compound | Prolimatech PK-1 5g Thermal Paste
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory| Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133MT/s C9 4x 4gb
Storage | SAMSUNG 840 EVO 250GB
Storage | SAMSUNG 840 EVO 250GB
Case | Corsair Graphite 760T in White
Power Supply | Corsair RM1000 80+ Gold
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (64-bit)
Monitor | Asus PB278Q 27" 2560x1440 PLS
Monitor | Asus PB238Q 23.0" Monitor
Keyboard|Filco Ninja Majestouch-2 w/MX browns
Keyboard | Keycool 84 (white body) w/MX black
Keyboard | KBT Pure Pro 60% w/MX blues
Keyboard|KBT Pure 60% w/MX reds and blue LEDs
Keyboard|Leopold FC660M (gray keycaps) w/MX greens
Keyboard| KBT Pure 60% w/MX whites
Mouse | Mionix Naos 5000 Wired Laser Mouse
Video Card| XFX 290 DD Black edition
Video Card| XFX 290 DD Black edition
Headphones| AKG K702
Headphones| Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250Ohm
Headphones | Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250Ohm
Headphone stand| Woo Audio HPS-HB
Headphone stand| Just Mobile Aluminum
Microphone|Samson Meteor Studio Mic
DAC| Schiit Modi
AMP|Schiit Magni
Speakers|JBL LSR305 5-inch Two-Way Pair
Fan| 3x Corsair SP120 Quiet edition PWM
Fan| 3x Corsair AF140 Quiet edition
Router|Netgear AC1750 R6300v2
Modem|Motorola SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Custom Cables|Made by /u/Lavins

Big thanks to Corsair for sponsoring most of this rig.

Here's the review of the case I released a couple of days ago

/u/s2xtreme4u - I sent you a PM and included my email address there, but I'll post the rest of what I said here so that it might be helpful to someone else, plus I'll add any additional information here minus my contact details.

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Technically the first thing you should do is power off your computer, and then take your computer to a professional. Because the longer your computer is on, the more files get encrypted. But professionals are pricey (and GeekSquad aren't professionals).

Let's assume all your files are encrypted... (which, by now is probably the case if the CryptoWall popup is appearing).

One thing you should be aware of is, if you run an antivirus now, you may run the risk of removing any decryption programs the CryptoWall virus ransom decrypter might make use of on your computer. However, you do want to run antivirus and anti-malware programs soon to remove any ADDITIONAL viruses installed on your system by the CryptoWall installer.

When it comes to recovering your files... there's a slim chance you can recover your files (if you don't have any backups anywhere). That slim chance comes in the form of 3 2 avenues: paying the ransom (if the files are worth more than the ransom amount), attempting decryption, or recovering your files from Backups, Web Storage, or your Windows Shadow Volume Copy.

Recovering Files by Paying the Ransom

In order to access the ransom payment page, you need to download and install the Tor Browser. You do so at the Tor Project Page. You'll then be able to access the Ransom Payment Page. It is reported on other security blogs that you will be able to get a decryption key this way, to decrypt all your files. But you should not bet your life on it. Determine whether the chance at getting your files back is worth it versus using that money elsewhere.

Recovering Files by Decrypting through a 3rd Party

The service you would use to attempt decryption would be FireEye & Fox IT's DecryptCryptoLocker.com website. It was built for CryptoLocker, which you are not infected with, but there's a chance it might work for you. Your files are encrypted by a variant of CryptoLocker called CryptoWall. This service does not work with CryptoWall-encrypted files unfortunately.

Recovering Files from the Shadow Volume

BleepingComputer has a good writeup on how to potentially recover your files from the Volume Shadow Service on their CryptoWall Ransomware Information page.

Bleeping Computer also provides a helpful tool called ListCWall that will create a list of all the files on your system encrypted by the CryptoWall virus.

Steps to Take After Recovering or Writing Off Your Files

Now... the next step IF you get your files decrypted OR once you decide the stuff on your computer isn't worth more than the ransom, you have 2 options: Attempt the usually risky cleansing of your computer, or just starting over.

My professional opinion for a consumer is the best and safest way to be rid of the virus is to wipe your drive clean, reinstall windows, and then acquire the appropriate security software and tools to prevent this from happening in the future.

If you find you need to buy a new OS disc, you can save money by getting a "System Builder" version. System Builder install discs are meant to be installed on only 1 computer and don't come with Microsoft Support, where "Full version" discs can be reinstalled on additional PCs and will receive Microsoft Support. That is why System Builder discs are cheaper - and you can can get them (on Amazon at least) for about 20-20% off.

Windows 8.1 Pro (64-bit):
System Builder ($130) vs Full Version ($175). If you have a MicroCenter near you, they will honor Amazon pricing. I'd probably go with the Full Version if I were you, but thought you should know the alternatives.

Cleaning your computer isn't going to be easy, and is generally not recommended for someone who doesn't work in IT, because it is very easy to overlook hidden and corrupted system files. No Antivirus program, or Antimalware program will find 100% of threats on your system. They get close to 100% sometimes (like Kaspersky) but none do. There are just too many new threats being released daily to keep up on it all. That's speaking a little more generally, but is a truth.

As for removing CryptoWall itself, you can follow the steps outlined at the PreciseSecurity website.

Recommended Software

• MalwareBytes Pro - I recommend Pro because it keeps itself automatically up-to-date and will scan your computer automatically. The cheapest route is to get a lifetime license from Amazon, otherwise MalwareBytes's webstore only offers the yearly premium. Get the lifetime license from Amazon for $39.99.
  
• Kaspersky Antivirus - Since my time working in IT, I've seen Kaspersky Antivirus pounce of viruses and trojans that several other vendors have missed. This is a top-notch antivirus solution that consistently scores top of its class. *
  
• Foolish.IT's CryptoPrevent Free or Premium - As with MalwareBytes, the Premium Version will automatically update itself. Otherwise with the free version, you'll need to manually update it periodically to ensure you are protected from any new variants of the CryptoVirus family.
  
  *When it comes to Antivirus, you really do not want to go Free. Get a reputable antivirus program: It's a small price to pay to ensure you don't lose out in the future. Not all antivirus solutions are the same either. For several years running, Kaspersky Antivirus consistently tests top of the class in independent testing. Please refer to the AV-Comparatives Independent Tests of Antivirus Software website to view recent tests and awards.
  
  
  

  Steps to Take on a Fresh, Virus-free Computer
  

  On the other side of this mess, you do want to change behaviors and software used to access the internet and your computer:
  
  

• Avoid using any Windows OS older than Windows 7 (with Service Pack 1). Windows 8.1 is the most secure release of Windows to date, and that is the OS recommended for use to ensure you stay as safe as possible.
  
  
• Don't use Internet Explorer (any version). Internet Explorer makes use of ActiveX and other Windows-specific scripting environments that can often be taken advantage of by virus vendors. Use Google Chrome (my personal and business preference) or Mozilla Firefox instead.
  
  
  • When using Google Chrome or Firefox, use an Adblock Program. This will help prevent you from clicking on otherwise ordinary looking links that may instead cause you to download viruses and malware. For Google Chrome, use µBlock. For Firefox, use Adblock Plus.
    
  • Go through your Firefox and/or Chrome installs, and check the extensions to ensure you recognize all the extensions installed. If you don't recognize an extension or don't remember installing one... remove it!
    
    
• Disable Windows Media Features (Control Panel > Programs and Features > Turn Windows features on or off > Uncheck Media Features). I've personally seen drive-by virus attacks make use of Windows Media Player when loading media from a web browser (that is by accessing a .wmv or a web stream via a browser). Use VLC Media Player instead.
  
  
• Be cautious when using torrent sites, or file sharing sites. Especially Sourceforge and Filehippo. Sourceforge has a tendency to sneak "additional" (unwanted/adware/spyware) programs into their install files for other programs. If you insist on downloading files from torrent sites, including executables, use a program called Sandboxie to run these programs. Sandboxie will "Sandbox" the program, and make it so you can run it, without that program being able to interact with your system files.
  
  
• Always ensure your computer is running the latest security patches. Don't pirate your copy of windows. Run Windows Update.
  
  
• Back up your files regularly and/or use online storage providers! Google Drive provides ample space with its online tool, and you can purchase additional space - up to 1,000 GB for $10/month. With Google Drive you can also use their free online word processing (Google Docs) and spreadsheet (Google Sheets) processing tools to do your work, and it stores your data in such a way that there's no risk of it getting encrypted in the future. You can even host files there like Dropbox, but Google provides file version history and you can roll back the clock on any changes (or chance encryption) of your files. For photographs? Store those in Google Photos or Flickr. Other options include Dropbox or an alternative.
  
  I can go on for another 9,000 characters I'm sure, but this will get you started.

I think you can use system builder with a Mac to avoid the upgrade issue: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F3ZN0CC?pc_redir=1398754837&robot_redir=1

>Which is something you clearly don't have since you are arguing that a prebuilt is better.

Being cheeky, are we?

>Send me a link to a prebuilt GAMING rig that is cheaper than a partlist with similar specs, lets say with a gtx 980.

Okay...

I just went to the HP business outlet website and I found a PC tower with Win8Pro (~$130), an intel core i7-4770 (~$370), and 500 GB HDD (~$50), 4 GB ram (~$40), a DVD drive (~$20), a business type tower case (~$20), a PSU you'll need to replace ($0), and no dedicated graphics card. I'm sure there are other components in that mix you'll re-use as well, but I'm not going to actually open the spec sheet.

These components individually add up to $670. The tower is being sold for $499. That means you'll save a minimum of $170 when starting your build with this pre-built.

The cost of your gtx980 is about $650 on a good day. Its a pretty neat card, but any rig it comes preloaded on is going to be overpriced gamer shit. So, the cost of building the above tower with that card is $670+$60 PSU+$650 GPU = $1380. The cost of buying and retrofitting is $499+$60 PSU+$650 GPU = $1209. That is a 12% discount.

Of course, that isn't a huge savings, but it is still a pretty good start for 10 minutes of looking. The reason you save money is because the PC gamer market has a premium markup: Buyers are willing to pay not only for good hardware, but for the best. The pre-built gaming rigs are marked up 30%-40%, and the gamer specific parts are also marked up 30%-40%. If you buy a business type computer, you'll be paying a lesser markup for the included components. That's why all of my computers have been workstation type models. When you buy laptops, look for models marketed to graphics designers. Business stuff and overstock is simply cheaper.

Just ordered this, at the recommendation from you guys that I get 8.1, and that I get 64-bit OEM from a buddy of mine. Just felt like checking with you guys to make sure this is what I need hahaha.

Get your OS from [amazon.] (http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN0CC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1398686911&sr=8-4&keywords=windows+8.1)

They have free shipping to NZ, I got my OS from them and it works perfectly.

You can also look at getting your other parts from them as well.

I would highly suggest against reinstalling Vista.

Windows 8.1U1 is sooooo much faster on old hardware. It's 100 dollars.

http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/

add a solid state drive for 85-140 dollars.

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/

Get the machine between 4-8GB of ram.



All of that is less than 300 dollars and gives them a modern speed machine.

If you can get away with the current memory and a 120GB drive, itll cost ~185 bucks.

The benefit to buying Windows 8.1 PRO (http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN0CC/) is that it comes with Win7 Pro downgrade rights. Then they will at least have 8.1 support in the long term, and can still use Win7 if they have some application that doesnt work with 8.1 yet. I recommend against downgrading to Win7 unless it is absolutely necessary.

The Windows Key is on the tower! It's a new desktop with 8.1 Pro, 64 bit. I'll get to searching for that then! Thanks

Cheapest one I can find is http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN0CC

Would I just insert the disk and conduct the reinstallation? As in not having to do anything propr besides creating bootable media? Just wondering if I'd come up with any issues.