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Reddit mentions of Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable

Sentiment score: 13
Reddit mentions: 35

We found 35 Reddit mentions of Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable. Here are the top ones.

Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
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    Features:
  • Converts Coaxial or Toslink digital audio signals to analog L/R audio
  • Supports sampling rate at 32, 44.1, 48 and 96 KHz
  • 24-bit S/PDIF incoming bit stream on left and right channels
  • Easy to install and simple to operate
  • Provides electromagnetic-noise-free transmission
Specs:
ColorDA Converter with Toslink Cable
Height1 Inches
Length5 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateApril 2019
Weight0.171875 Pounds
Width4 Inches

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Found 35 comments on Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable:

u/EpisodeOneWasGreat · 10 pointsr/audiophile

I've used DACs and kit with built-in DACs ranging in price from $3 to $300, but I'm mainly focused on non-headphone audio. My audio signal distribution backbone is also mostly digital because splitting line-level signals more than a handful of times is needlessly complicated in 2017.

Between room acoustics, speaker placement, diaphragm installation variability, listening position, intended colouring from horns and drivers, flaky binding posts, line impedance, analog equalization, noise inherent to tubes, digital processing in pre-amps, and other factors, I've stopped caring about the fine details of individual DACs since almost every single item downstream of it colours the sound far more than the difference between the most and least expensive DAC.

Short reviews, in no particular order:

  • Zalman ZM-RSSC 5.1 External Real Surround Sound Extremal Sound Card - $50 new - One knob controls analog output to up to 3 devices before noise floor becomes a problem. (In other words, the device's relatively weak line-level output colours the sound far more than the DAC chip itself.)

  • NAD T763 - $200 used - The sound of the cooling fans tells me that that this powerful not little amp is turned on and passing both digital and analog outs to other gear, even when the amplifier section is not doing anything. (In other words, the cooling fans colour the sound in the room far more than the DAC chip itself.)

  • Panasonic SA-HE70 - $50 used - Drives two 12-inch woofers just fine, without sacrificing whatever detail a digital signal is supposed to provide at the low end. Respectable headphone output, but does not fit nicely on a desk.

  • Sony TA-E1000/2000 - >$1000 new in 1980s dollars, $300 used in 2017 dollars - Includes parametric EQ, custom EQ profiles, massive lighted volume knob, handy remote, and various DSP features. This pre-amp can bring out the best in many different kinds of power amplifiers or amplifier sections of integrated amplifiers. These are my default DACs for experimenting with new kit, and for power amplifiers that don't have volume controls. Respectable headphone output, but does not fit nicely on a desk.

  • MacBook Pro - various prices new and used - The optical SPDIF output avoids having to deal with frequent ground loop issues arising from the combination of the laptop's metal case and interesting power adapter design and options. The analog out does not connect to kit that I care about without a grounded power cable.

  • Generic Chinesium DAC - $3-5 new - Regardless of what brand is printed on the case, this just a DAC is compact and well suited for tube and non-tube monoblocks that have volume pots. These are my default DACs for when I want an analog pre-amp or power amplifier to just work without having to thoughtfully route interconnects, deal with line-level impedance issues, deal with source selection, etc. These are also great to modify in order to change the line level output characteristics to match expected input on older or exotic gear.

    In almost all cases, my choice of DAC has far more to do with the device's other functions, usability, or physical characteristics, than with its sound output quality because I know (and intend) that downstream kit will modify the analog output before it hits my ears. Hence I'm fine with a $5 DAC in front of far more expensive monoblocks and horns.
u/camerones72 · 6 pointsr/techsupport

I think this may be what your looking for:

Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ib2wCbGM5SB4J

u/Bootyclapthunder · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

This was my solution for my current setup. Will use it when I get these speakers in tomorrow.

u/unwiredben · 5 pointsr/Roku

Some Roku TVs have a Line Out 3.5mm jack or dual RCA jacks. If this model doesn't have that, you could use a device like https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8 to convert the optical digital output to your PA system.

u/AMartin56 · 3 pointsr/PinballFX3

So standard pinball cabinet: Playfield space is 20.5 inches wide. Back box space is 28.5 inches wide.

This backbox TV:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-32-class-led-720p-hdtv/5747454.p?skuId=5747454

Mounted with this mount:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RN77YL6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

DMD screen is this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NB17E0Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Playfield TV:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-40-class-led-d-series-1080p-smart-hdtv/6288347.p?skuId=6288347

Speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N8265I8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Amplifier:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

My computer only has optical out so I need this adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AWBA8U8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you don't require motion sensing nudging or a analog plunger you can get a simple keyboard controller like this:

https://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html

Buttons like this:

https://www.focusattack.com/il-psl-h-concave-short-stem-pushbutton-blue/

Couple of ground wire harnesses like this (you'll probably need two):

https://www.focusattack.com/30-connection-22-awg-187-ground-daisy-chain-wire/

And some .187 quick connect wiring:

https://www.focusattack.com/16pc-22-awg-wire-with-187-quick-disconnect/

1 1/8 inch spade bit to enlarge or add cabinet button holes:


https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-SPEEDBOR-Blue-Groove-Spade/dp/B00004YOAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1+1%2F8+spade+bit&qid=1569174093&sprefix=1+1%2F8+sp&sr=8-3

After that it's just assorted HDMI cables, USB Extension cords, a computer and a partridge in a pear tree. I keep my computer outside of the cabinet in case I want to use it for other things and keep the heat out so my cables are long. The TVs don't generate much heat. And currently I just turn the TVs and computer on manually.

I built my own speaker grills out of foam board and acousticly transparent cloth.

u/Manezinho · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You might want a headphone to RCA adapter cable.

EDIT: these would probably be the easiest hookup. Otherwise you'll likely need a more expensive optical to RCA converter box.

Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s.hoybTRY8KHP

EDIT 2: like this one. Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MaioybPMHMGQ0

EDIT 3: at second thought, the box will probably be a better choice.

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 2 pointsr/audiophile

LSR305 is considered the best for that budget, but it's at $280 at the moment and you'd need something like this as well to hook them up. If you're cool with waiting for them to drop in price or buy used, that'd be my recommendation.

u/Nixxuz · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You can get a preamp and use something like this for sound;

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1523964180&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=optical+to+RCA&psc=1

You run everything to the TV that you can, and then run the optical out from the TV to this box and this box via RCA cables to the preamp.

This WILL NOT get you surround sound formats or anything like that, but it will get a decent stereo signal from the TV, and anything connected to it, to the preamp. Then you still get to use the 305's and still have a volume knob to adjust it. A decent stereo preamp can be super cheap, or insane expensive, just like any other audio product.

u/mull3t · 2 pointsr/xboxone

It's doable but only through 2 separate adapters.

1st you'll need a RCA Composite to HDMI adapter to convert the video signal to SD.

Then to get the audio out you'll need an Optical Audio to RCA Adapter to convert the audio signal

u/e60deluxe · 2 pointsr/hometheater

you cannot run HDMI audio without picture. try connecting something to the video input (yellow) of that converter like an old vcr. that might enable it.

otherwise i would recommend just using optical for audio only signals.

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/

u/muhklane · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

Ima pick up one of theseand if it doesn't work ill take your advice and get a new surround sound system. Thanks for all your help.

u/erosian42 · 1 pointr/hometheater

You need to convert the output of the optical audio to analog and you need some wireless speakers. Can be done for less than $100. These two items should work to make it happen.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CCSSOY/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AWBA8U8/

u/linvmiami · 1 pointr/audio

Hey this will be my final set up, if you have a min I would really appreciate if you could give it a look.

Audio out of the XBOX through optical, into this converter then to this tube amplifier and finally to my 2 speakers

Will this work?

Thanks!

u/kpopper2013 · 1 pointr/obs

Besides the splitter cable, another solution is to use the optical output on the back of the console. You'd have to get some equipment to convert the SPDIF to RCA/3.5mm headphone (example) and input it back to your computer/elgato. But you're also not tied down this way.

e: I found a good overview video by Elgato here. Also Elgato has a video covering the Chat Link product here.

e2: The slim ps4 dropped the optical output so this method wouldn't work if you have a slim.

u/foolyx360cooly · 1 pointr/OLED

Im using one of these things https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8 but sound difference is very noticeable so i am still on optical directly from tv but it does get more and more frustrating for sure.

u/Jakomako · 1 pointr/buildapc

You're looking for two dacs and a mixer essentially. I really don't think you'll find anything that does that in a single package. Even if you get three parts, It's not too expensive. Here's what you'd need.

2x https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/

1x https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40

u/women_are_pretty · 1 pointr/audiophile

I would consider this

according to Panasonic website you have a SPDIF out. I woudl use that instead of the HDMI. HDMI is nice and all, I have had better luck with the output of the TV than the feed into the TV.

u/Armsc · 1 pointr/hometheater

The lack of optical is the real issue. If it at least had optical you would be in business. However, not all is lost if the TV has analog (RCA) outs. If your TV does then you can still use the AVR very effectively in a 2.1 stereo configuration. The good thing is with a stereo config you won't need any fancy surround decoding you're just getting a stereo signal from the TV and amping it. It's not idea but if it saves you money and allows for better speakers I would really look into it. If you have to get an AVR, even a refurb unit will cost around $200 so that $400 for speakers really starts to get small.

The other option would be to get a optical to RCA converter for the TV and use the AVR/receiver that you obtained. It's not ideal but it gets you up and running and will allow you to focus more on the speakers vs blowing have the budget on an AVR.

I would check to make sure the AVR/receiver is fully functional. If yes then check to see if the TV has analog audio outputs. If so we can move forward with speakers. If not then consider either getting an AVR or getting something like the converter I linked.

u/murderfacejr · 1 pointr/audio

your receiver appears to only have analog inputs. Which Xbox do you have? Assuming, its a "One" I don't believe it has any analog outs. So you'd either have to use the TV analog audio out (LIKE THIS if it had one) or convert the xbox audio

  • TV Audio: If your TV has an analog audio out (red and white RCA port, similar to whats on the back of your receiver), hook Xbox to TV via HDMI then run the RCA cable from the TV to the receiver. (your receiver does have a Digital in, it's possible your TV would have a digital out port, though I've never seen that, you would hook that up the same way. Digital coax cable from output of TV to input of receiver). You may need to enable "audio out" in the TV settings.
  • Convert: If you wanted to stay digital, you could convert the Optical (SPIDF / TOSLINK) out of the XBOX to the Digital (DIGITAL COAXIAL) in of the receiver with something LIKE THIS - You would also need digital coax and optical cables. Staying digital might play better with some surround sound formats and - depending on the quality of that converter, your ears and your speakers - will technically be cleaner sounding than RCA. Or you can purchase an optical to RCA converter (LIKE THIS) - which converts to analog sound, you will also need optical and rca cables. Or an HDMI to RCA converter (LIKE THIS) you will also need RCA and HDMI cables. Or an HDMI to digital converter (LIKE THIS) - you will also need HDMI and optical / digital coax cables.

    If converting, I would avoid the HDMI route, as HDMI can be fickle and "error out" when run through "cheap" adapters, especially if you are using 4k.
u/Cmb86480 · 1 pointr/appletv

I would explore optical digital splitter.

Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2UeECb2XETCXB

u/diablo75 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Check the menus on the TV to see if it offers a selection what you want audio to be output from. The manual seemed to talk about a couple of ports that look like headphone jacks that are meant for special adapters that can be used to accept component or composite video input but makes me wonder if you can enable a mode that would flip one of those into a headphone jack output. Then you could get a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable and plug it into your speakers. But I really don't know if this is possible. Just curious what you might find in the settings.

Worse case, you can get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8

u/PCMRBot · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.

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In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

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> does newegg tend to have cyber monday deals? building a whole new rig for the second time, and a couple sales on parts actually end on sunday, so I was wondering if I should just order them now.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9w82oo/

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> Hi everyone.
>
> will any simple/cheap/ rgb strip sync to my mobo MSI x470 gaming , as long as i plug it directly on the rgb dedicated pins on the mobo? and what about usb hubs? would they still sync up just trough the mobo? i have their mystic light app, so far i only used for the rgb on the mobo itself

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wben8/

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> I bought a Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
> And I'm looking for an installation video to help me with it. Otherwise I'll have to get my brothers friends to help install it and he want like $50 to put my PC together. All I need help with is the liquid cooler cause I've never put one in before.
>
> Anyone know any good videos to help?


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wem45/

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> Hi. I have the ability to purchase an old Xeon E5420 Dell Desktop, with new SSD and 8GBs of RAM for cheap. Does anyone use it still? How does it hold for browsing the web, mainly more demanding websites like perhaps Cloud9 which I intend to develop on.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wkvc0/

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> Got. Mobo. For a old machine. Pull working parts from another machine to test it. Everything is install correctly . but. It not wanting to tirn on. After it was on last night
>


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wlax0/

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> I'm looking for a place where I can buy last year's computers or laptops. I figure that last year's $1000 laptop is now $700 somewhere in the internet. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wnpld/

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> I built a PC last year with a 1080 Ti, i7 CPU, monitor is AW3418DW. I haven’t done anything to make it look good though. What’s a good site or YouTube channel that goes into ideas and the process of “pimping out” a PC? I’m talking RGB, color schemes, accessories, etc. I don’t know where to start.
>
> Thank you.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wz0dl/

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> Among other drives, I have two 6TB WD Reds for media storage for a Plex server. I use Backblaze for online backups as it has no storage limit, but even with the best consumer internet in my area, obviously a backup can take a while. I would like to have a second local storage drive specifically for a media backup.
>
> So the question - what is the best 12+ TB internal drive now, specifically from the standpoint of reliability? Cost is a near secondary concern, with performance being by far last.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x16vl/

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> Where is the most reliable place to buy replacement keyboard keys for a laptop? Some of them seem kind of sketch

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5qzv/

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> Decided to upgrade my graphics card. I decided to go ahead and grab a 1080ti until I saw how inflated the prices have become since I last checked. It looks like a used 1080ti is a similar price to the 2080. Should I just grab a used 1080ti or buy a brand new 2080?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5w55/

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> Is there any way to get audio input/output from my ps4 and my PC at the same time? I have a pair of HyperX Cloud IIs, I bought this splitter thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/
>
> And this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/
>
> I thought this would work and I'm almost certain I have it all set up right but my PC and ps4 won't recognize it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5zb5/

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> In your guys opinion, whats the coolest case I could get for around $100-200?
>
> Last year, I built a very budget and compact PC with a small case so that I could easily take it to friends houses. (worked better than I thought) Soon im going to be getting a laptop, so I have no need for a small case and was thinking, why not go all out and get a nice, fancy RGB case? I have always wanted to do one of those rainbow-puke builds, think its possible to do that for around $100-200 including RGB fans and light strips and all that?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x8x6j/

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> Is the aorus b450 mini itx board good? How is it compared to the asus board.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xb5fp/

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> I'm needing a bit of help with my new GPU. Just yesterday I upgraded to a Asus Strix 2080 OC edition card, and now I'm getting a D3D9 error on a hat in time. I've tried everything I've seen from forums, and nothing works. Any tips to get it running? Everything is up to date, so how do I get it to run?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xbm5i/

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>
> https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/WqZRyX Looking at building this in the next few weeks, for my little cousin. Slowly buying everything as they go on sale. Since it's a windowed case, was thinking of putting some RGB parts in it - what are some cheap ways of doing that? Fans? Will those be compatible with my case/motherboard?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xdcg6/

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> lets say i wanted to start a youtube tech channel and a twitch channel. the requirements are, for twitch it just needs to have a stand and preferably have hardware that can minimize outside sound. for youtube, it needs to have the ability to record how loud pc components (and keyboard) are when being stress tested. i was thinking the yeti mic, but maybe there might be a better mic, idk.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xgx6f/

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> So i got a weird kind of thing
>
> So my Logitech G403 mouse that replaced my Razer Deathadder (because of the infamous DoubleClick bug that appeared a month after i bought it (dont buy razer mice!)) the mousewheel on my G403 started to freak out after a couple of weeks of use. Randomly scrolling up or down.
>
> Thing is i use Linux, in my workplace they also use Linux so it took me a few weeks until i could do a firmware upgrade to fix the bug (firmware update is windows/mac only) but that didnt fix the bug. The Mousewheel kept being random. Until a couple of days ago when i noticed that it is less random then usual...and it only got better and the bug is all but gone now.
>
> I dont understand this.
>
> Why did the Firmware update needed time to gestate? What is going on?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xvbea/

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> Hi there.
>
> I need a new keyboard and as I'm waiting for black friday week promotion, I can't choose between Logitech G513 and the new Razer BlackWidow Elite.
>
> ​
>
> What's your point of view ?
>
> ​
>
> Edit : One more : A friend is playing on a 21:9 34" monitor (3440*1440). I'm thinking of upgrading to it and then see the 38" (3840*1600) that exists. Is it enjoyable ? I certainly need a high end GPU to handle all of those pixels. Will my i5 4690 (4 core@3.5GHtz) be bottlenecked for those two screen size ?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9y73tw/

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> Hey guys I just bought a new pc on parts and I think I messed up. I bought a segotep sg-k8 case (with bottom mounted psu) and a psu (seasonic M12II-520) that is supposed to be top mounted.... I can still mount the psu in the case but I have to flip it upside down. Is that a problem? Thank you very much...

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9y809h/

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u/Quillies · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Is there any way to get audio input/output from my ps4 and my PC at the same time? I have a pair of HyperX Cloud IIs, I bought this splitter thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/

And this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/

I thought this would work and I'm almost certain I have it all set up right but my PC and ps4 won't recognize it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

u/aabeba · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey! I'm trying to hook up my PC setup to my new Samsung MU7000 TV via its TOSLINK (optical) connection.

I have two monitor speakers and a sub connected to a FiiO E09K amplifier, and a pair of RCA cables running from the amp to this DAC, which is connected to the TV via an optical cable.

I either get static or a mid-frequency hum, even when I've tinkered with the settings on the TV. Any clue where I've gone wrong?

u/Ezerus · 1 pointr/Zeos

hi,

thanks for the reply. i have sorta one like this

u/The_Caring_Banker · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey guys! I tried looking for answers by googling or searching in this sub but havent been able to find anything that helps me. Also, I am not looking for buying advice so please mods dont delete this post.

I have a Samsung 65 inches curved TV. It has one of those little boxes in wich you hook up all your systems (in my case ps4, switch, turntable). I am trying to change from my samsung home theater to an old Fisher reciever but I just cant seem to make them work together.

The reciever (and the speakers) both work; I tested them hooking them up to my turntable using RCA cables.

What I did was use a "digital to analog audio converter:

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517872024&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio&psc=1

I hooked a optical table from the tv (well, the little box that the tv has for hooking up this stuff) to the converter, and then from the converter I hooked a RCA cable to the RCA input in the reciever. I made sure yo use the same spot I used in the reciever when I was doing the test with the turntable.

It did not work.

Am I missing something? Do I need some kind of different cable or converter?

I am sorry for my crap english. I am sorry for making noob questions and I am sorry if I am breaking any kind of rule this sub could have but I just dont know what to do or who to ask.


Edit1: Yes I made sure to turn off the tv speakers and set the sound to audio output. We also tested the recieved with another TV and a AUX to RCA cable and it totally worked. Bad news is my TV does not have a AUX input.

u/dquizzle · 1 pointr/rocksmith

Do you think I could use something like this + a fiber optic cable?


EDIT: Meant to say if I bought the game on PS4 since there is no Fiber Optic plugin on the PS3

u/jseaber · 1 pointr/headphones

Yes, dishonesty is our reputation. ;-)

I believe I shared that measurements do not improve much for DACs composed of more than $50 in parts. Keep in mind that raw parts cost does not correspond to a fully manufactured DAC (let's not forget the PCB, assembly, enclosure, packaging, etc.). The electronics BOM cost of most entry level DACs on the market is below $50. For example, AKM's AK4490EQ is a fantastic IC. You'll find it in several $400+ "DACs". The chip itself is a mere $3/ea at 1K quantities. Add an S/PDIF or USB controller, power and supporting circuitry, and electronics BOM cost will easily remain below 50 USD.

RAZRr1275 is correct. It's certainly possible for two DAC designs to sound different. Digital filters and design choices have measurable impact--often small, but measurable. And not all DACs are designed for objectively neutral output. Well trained ears will notice.

Similarly, we've analyzed dirt cheap DACs which fall far below objective standards. Despite measurably poor performance, the audible difference between a $15 consumer grade TOSLINK-to-RCA adapter and a high performance DAC can be small to the untrained ear. Check out the positive reviews for this DAC (specs are absent for a reason!): http://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/

I've shared the following advice for years: Upgrade your headphones and focus on your audio collection first. Add an amp next. Consider a DAC only if your source is noticeably unimpressive to you.

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Thanks to all for joining in!

-JDS

u/drawde60 · 1 pointr/xboxone

Its the same adapter that you showed it analog to digital the difference is that digital to analog works backwards. Here's the link from Amazon. [](Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yCOAxbASZHEGQ)

The optical input goes to the Xbox. The two RCA white and red output goes to the Logitech 5.1 input and the three 3.5 mm output goes to the speakers.