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Reddit mentions of NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B B+ A+ Plus Power Supply Charger AC Adapter 5V 3A PSU Micro USB 5 Feet with Power On/Off Switch (1 X Power Supply)

Sentiment score: 6
Reddit mentions: 17

We found 17 Reddit mentions of NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B B+ A+ Plus Power Supply Charger AC Adapter 5V 3A PSU Micro USB 5 Feet with Power On/Off Switch (1 X Power Supply). Here are the top ones.

NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B B+ A+ Plus Power Supply Charger AC Adapter 5V 3A PSU Micro USB 5 Feet with Power On/Off Switch (1 X Power Supply)
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    Features:
  • A product of NorthPada; Input: AC 100-240V 0.3A 50/60Hz, Output: DC 5V 3000mA/3A
  • Cable Length: 150cm/5Feet with On/Off Power Switch, Inline Noise Filter
  • For Raspberry Pi 3 Model B B+ A+, Raspberry Pi 2 Model B, Raspberry Pi A/A+/B/B+, Raspberry Pi Zero, Raspberry Pi Pico, ASUS Tinker Board S
  • Come with a micro USB to USB C Adapter, it can also support Raspberry Pi 4 Model B, Raspberry Pi 400
  • Package included: 1 x 5V power supply with micro usb, 1 x micro USB to USB C Adapter
Specs:
Height1.02 Inches
Length5.51 Inches
Width3.7 Inches

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Found 17 comments on NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B B+ A+ Plus Power Supply Charger AC Adapter 5V 3A PSU Micro USB 5 Feet with Power On/Off Switch (1 X Power Supply):

u/SuperScathe · 6 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I'm 37 and have wanted one of these since I was 10 as well. Also work in IT, but as a programmer, but I have done a lot of PC building and repairing on the side for decades. Never owned or worked on an arcade cabinet before, or worked with Raspberry Pi before. The Arcade1Up MK was also my first (and only so far) cab. As a tinkerer, I modded mine immediately (as in, within 3 days of ownership), and I'll give you some tips for if/when you mod yours that will save you a lot of time and money, because I made a lot of mistakes with mine buying wrong or insufficient parts, and general things that I would have done better/differently if I got to do it over again.

Modding is NOT hard. It's as easy as building the thing out of the box was (requires moderate effort and very little skill).

Hardware:

  1. Get a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ from Amazon (seems to be the cheapest place, as it's $37.50 with free shipping there, but other stores charge $35 + like $5+ for shipping).
  2. Mistake #1 for me: I went with a 256GB MicroSD because I WAY overestimated how much space I'd need, because I was looking at "complete" ROM sets that had a million duplicates, lightgun games, trackball games, spinner games, bartop touchscreen games, a bunch of adult stuff, like 500 Mahjong games, etc., and I knew I also wanted to download video previews for a Hyperspin-like setup. Depending on the systems you want to emulate, a 64GB MicroSD should be plenty. If you want to be safe (hey, maybe someday you'll get a modded control panel with a trackball, spinner, and maybe you'll do an AimTrak setup), go with 128GB. My 256GB card is a huge waste, as they're very expensive.
  3. If you get an aftermarket joysticks/button kit, just go with the $56 Sanwa kit. I went with the EG STARTS joystick & LED buttons kit, and the buttons look and work amazingly, but the joysticks are garbage. They're worse than the stock joysticks; the only reason I'd use them over the stock joysticks is because they're 8-way (stock ones on the A1U MK cab are 4-way for some reason). The joysticks have WAY too light of a pull, and a pull-then-release will result in it springing back and hitting the opposite switch (for example if you pull left and let go, it'll spring back and briefly trigger the right switch). I got Sanwa sticks to remedy this, but it set me back $50 for those + another $10 for the 8-way gates, so that totals $115 for the controls. Don't worry, your A1U stock battops will work with those sticks.
  4. If you want LED buttons (they do look incredible), then just get a cheap decent LED button kit of your choosing and spend $46 on two Sanwa sticks. You'll come out way cheaper than I did.
  5. You don't need an amp for your audio with the RPi. I spent $20 on an amp and didn't even end up using it. Just plug some cheap powered PC speakers into your monitor controller board to use the HDMI audio. I then mounted the speakers to the top of my cab in the back, so they're not really visible but the volume knob on them is easy to reach. I've seen some people mount PC speakers right on the sides of the cab, but I don't like that aesthetic personally. If you want to go the extra mile (I plan to try), disassemble the speakers, mount them on the panel between the kickplate and the control panel (after making speaker holes or purchasing an aftermarket one with holes drilled already), and then make an extra hole in the center of that panel for the volume knob (just mount the board behind there, with the potentiometer sticking out, and then put the plastic knob right back on the dial to cover the hole).
  6. You will need to drill two 1 1/8" holes in the panel between the control panel and kickplate for select/coin buttons. I've never done any woodworking in my life but was able to do this easily. All I did was measure the vertical halfway line (drawing a horizontal line with a square and a pencil), and then 1/3 of the total distance from both the left and right edges, drawing vertical lines. The intersections are where you drill your holes. Very simple. It's only a 3/16" thick panel so it's no sweat at all. Just be sure to remove the panel before doing this, and use some clamps to clamp it securely to a piece of scrap wood.
  7. You can wire your RPi to use the stock A1U on/off switch. It's very simple, but you may need to reverse the switch (by just physically turning it around), or else it might be backwards ("Off" is "On" and vice-versa). It's just 2 wires. This'll have the added benefit of turning your RPi off cleanly, and also powering down all your peripherals, including the monitor and USB devices.
  8. You're gonna want a bluetooth keyboard so you can access DIP switches in games, and use Linux commands.
  9. If you plan on connecting any extra USB stuff beyond the controls, you'll want a good RPi power supply. You might also want a powered USB hub for extra power, because even the best RPi power supplies (true 3 amp) can't power more than 3-4 USB devices along with the Pi.

    Software:

  10. Here's a really good clean 64GB Arcade-only RPi image. It includes all the descriptions and video previews, so you don't have to run a scraper.
  11. If MK games have crackling audio, go into the DIP switch menu with F2 and turn the volume down to about 60%. Also turn the RPi volume down a bit, to no more than 75%.
  12. Sometimes when using RPi images, the screen resolution is wrong; set it to 1280x1024. You may also want to disable bezels.
  13. Some RPi themes only look good at 16:9 aspect ratios; my favorite 5:4 compatible theme is "Showcase".
  14. If you see a yellow lightning bolt icon in the top right on the Pi, it means it's underpowered and you need to disconnect peripherals, get a powered USB hub for some of them, or upgrade your power supply. Seeing this symbol will cause slowdown in games and can potentially corrupt your MicroSD image entirely.
  15. If you have a yellow FPS or 'frame counter' in the bottom left of your screen, do the following:

    Go into a game, and hit Select/Coin + X. This will bring up a special Retroarch menu. Go to Settings -> Onscreen Display -> Onscreen Notifications -> Display Frame Count -> OFF. Hit B to go back to the Settings menu, then go to Configuration and make sure Save Configuration on Exit is ON. You may have to do this for every system you're emulating, because it seems to only apply to whichever emulator you have running when you change the setting.

    None of this is nearly as complicated as it might sound. I was just trying to be thorough and save you a ton of time and money. Hope this helps!

    Here's a video of my modded cab:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8lNARvbiKA
u/paisleyboxers · 5 pointsr/fpgagaming

If you want to turn your MiSTer on and off, a lot of us use this power supply which doesn’t drop voltage

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N336XEU/

and this type barrel adaptor for it

Fucung DC 5.5x2.1mm (type M barrel) Male Plug To Micro USB Female Connector Adapter Charge Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5DS6J4

u/LastTreestar · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You need a beefier power supply. I use ones similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU

It also had a switch to prevent having to plug/unplug to power cycle.

u/MiOdd · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I just helped a friend of mine build his own, it's very easy to put together yourself. Here's our component list, that you may find helpful.

Raspberry Pi 3B

Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2

8Bitdo Sn30 Bluetooth Gamepad

SanDisk 32GB Micro SD

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable

NorthPada RPi3 Power Supply

Of course, there are many different cases and controllers you can use, you don't need to buy these specifically but it'll give you a good idea what you need to get started and what it will cost you when all is said and done. This is also assuming you just want something to play on TV. If you are a building a handheld, that's a different beast.

u/TegisTARDIS · 2 pointsr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

There are appropriate power bricks(2.5a+, 5v) that have a power toggle. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
(Havnt used it, I've just seen it around when looking for the 'same thing' you are)

If your not looking to change the case out for one with buttons, like you had mentioned, your options are a shutdown script macro key/'manual' shutdown + something like that or doing something with the gpio pins and a custom switch to have with the existing case, hope it's something to consider sorry if I wasn't much help

u/karmavorous · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Purchase guide? You mean like a list of stuff you need?

You need the bare board, like this, not saying buy this one because the price is a bit high, but just the board like this will suffice. I don't see any reason to get the B+ that just came out, but if it's the same price as a B go ahead. Microcenter has Pi3 B on sale right now for $30. Arrow Electronic often has them for $25-$30 and free overnight shipping on orders over $25.


You need a power supply. A lot of people use phone chargers and that works, but they may not give you a real 2.5a which can lead to more heat and throttling under load. Not sure if that's a problem with Octoprint - I think the bottleneck that limits Octopring performance is elsewhere. I have used this brand of dedicated power supply on several Pi builds and never had a problem. 3a in higher than most chargers. But I normally get a version without the in-line power switch - which seems to be gone from Amazon.

And you need a MicroSD card. Class 10 is preferred, but by no means necessary. And the size of SD card you get will be the size of the library of files you can store on the Raspberry Pi. However, the interface for navigating through a large cache of files through the OctoPrint interface isn't so good, so therefor the size of the card you need may really only be 8GB or less as you'll probably delete files off the card once you print them. 8GB is a crap load of GCode files and scrolling down a list of 10 files is annoying, much less 1GB worth, much much less 6+ GB (on an 8GB card).

And you'll want a case, but you might just want to print one rather than buy one. Cases are really a preference thing. For buyable cases I love C4 Labs acrylic cases.

You might want some heat sinks. Every Pi case I've ever bought (like 7 at this point) came with heat sinks. Here's some over priced copper ones. But I have been running my Octopi for three weeks solid, printing 8-12 hours per day, and I don't have any heat sinks on it. I don't think Octoprint really needs heatsinks, but many people will tell you to get them anyway because cheap insurance and all that. The $16 Flirc case acts as a heatsink itself.

u/RockstarGTA6 · 2 pointsr/PlaystationClassic

if your like me and your constantly adding /removing changing games whatever , this is a must

https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU

u/Affliction_Sequence · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I can tell you from personal experience that the Flirc case is legit! I use it with an OC'ed pi @ 1350\525 and have yet to see temps rise above 60c! The catch is though, instead of using the thermal pad they include with the case, I use a small copper shim with thermal paste on both sides interfacing the soc and case, respectively. It's solid too, not like those cheapy acrylic cases! Plus you won't have to deal with any annoying fan noise!

As far as a ps goes, I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510362231&sr=1-1&keywords=raspberry+pi+power+supply+3a

Edit:
To answer you original question: No, using a 2.5a ps with an OC'ed pi will either work or it won't be able to supply enough juice causing oddities or crashes... it will not "burnout the components" as the pi has a polyfuse so you will pop that before anything else.

u/theWinterDojer · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Get the NorthPada. It is capable of supply 3A, which will easily handle overclocking and any peripherals, and also has an on/off switch so you don't have to keep pulling out the cable. The on/off switch is must have after you use it.

u/CaptainFedora5 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

You mean this one? I was just considering buying it myself.

u/big-chungo · 1 pointr/RetroPie

It's weird, I got a very similar 5V/3A switch cable to yours and it works like a charm - the USB one I used before was giving the lightning bolt symbol all the time, but this one hasn't so much as blinked even after overclocking. It makes me wonder if the problem is with the USB connection to the power block?

u/XC-3730C · 1 pointr/crtgaming

I just bought this on Amazon:

NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B B+ A+ Plus Power Supply Charger AC Adapter 5V 3A PSU Micro USB 5 Feet with Power On/Off Switch (1 X Power Supply) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N336XEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l6hYDb3DGMMPR

I hope it will suit my needs without power issues since it had an on/off switch.

u/LoFiHiFiWiFiSciFi · 1 pointr/RetroPie

This one specifically:

NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Power Supply Charger AC Adapter 5V 3A PSU Micro USB 5 Feet with Power On / Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N336XEU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/Super-X2 · 0 pointsr/PlaystationClassic

No that's not it. It's definitely caused by unplugging it from the PSC, I ran a multitude of tests to verify.

I get this error sometimes, but it has never caused any real issues, I just let windows do the check and it has never had any problems.

The best thing you can do is let it sit for at least 10 seconds after the orange light comes on. I don't unplug the cable, never have. I have always used one of these and I much prefer it over unplugging the damn thing every time. https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU