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Reddit mentions of (OLD MODEL) Seagate Expansion 3TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STBV3000100)

Sentiment score: 10
Reddit mentions: 27

We found 27 Reddit mentions of (OLD MODEL) Seagate Expansion 3TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STBV3000100). Here are the top ones.

(OLD MODEL) Seagate Expansion 3TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STBV3000100)
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
or
    Features:
  • Easy and simple to use - simply plug in the power adapter and USB cable
  • Fast file transfers with USB 3.0
  • Compatible with USB 3.0 and USB 2.0
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height1.48 inches
Length7.07 inches
Number of items1
Size3 TB
Weight2.06 Pounds
Width4.65 inches

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Found 27 comments on (OLD MODEL) Seagate Expansion 3TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STBV3000100):

u/PenPenGuin · 8 pointsr/Frugal

Warning - Incoming Giant wall of text

I've seen a lot of random Amazon topics pop up here, most with incorrect or partial information. I don't work for Amazon, but I've been a very long time and prolific customer, and hopefully I can share some tips and tricks that will save you guys some money when shopping with what is easily my favorite retailer.

camelcamelcamel

The link in my post gets you to camelcamelcamel (referred to here-on as 'CCC') because it's the first thing you should know about Amazon. I have found their browser add-on to be a very useful addition to my Chrome toolbar. CCC is simply a historical on the prices of various items on Amazon. If you sign up and make an account, it also has price drop alert options via email or Twitter as well as the ability to customize watch lists for products you're interested in.

How to use CCC

It's easy to get caught up in trying to get the absolute historical lowest price on an item, but that's only half the functionality of CCC. Look at a volitile product like this Seagate external drive. From the graph, we can see that this drive often hits the historical low of $99.99 - but usually hangs out around $110. If you were unlucky enough to look at the drive when it was priced at $130+, from the chart you can tell that if you can wait a week or so, chances are relatively good that you'll see this product drop in price again soon - saving you anywhere from $20 to $40.

On the flip side, look at this SKIL Drill Press. We can see that the current price of $117.99 is pretty average, so you might be tempted to wait for another historical low point. Well in this case, if you look at the date of the historical low, note the date - November 29th, 2012. That's right in the middle of Amazon's Black Friday sales. Since the only times that this item seems to dip under the $110 mark seem to be around the November time period, you can pretty safely assume that this item only goes on sale as a "door buster" type item. Note that CCC defaults to "ALL" for the date range. If you switch it to either 3mo or 6mo for this item, you can see that this has been pretty stable at the $113.50 - $117.99 range. If you can't wait until November to see if this goes on sale again, chances are pretty high that it won't change price again very soon so you probably won't see a savings if you wait it out a week or two.

CCC also has Popular lists of items that many people are currently tracking. Their Community page is an aggregate of suggested deals from their users. They also have a page that lists the items which have had the most significant price drops recently. Amazon also monitors web traffic, so if an item gets a sudden increase in web traffic to that page, the price often becomes more volatile.

Ok, back to Amazon.com.

The Amazon Shopping Cart

The Amazon shopping cart is sort of a mini version of CCC. Whenever you go shopping on Amazon and place items into your cart, the price reflects whatever the current price is on Amazon. So if you put some shoes in your cart, go to lunch and come back to it an hour later to check out, you may notice a message that says " Important messages about items in your Cart: 1 item in your Cart has changed price.
Items in your Shopping Cart will always reflect the most recent price displayed on their product detail pages."

Save for Later

When you add a few items to your cart and view it, you'll note that there's a two options below the product listing - Delete (obviously to remove the item from your cart) and Save for later. Save for later pulls the item out of your shopping cart and into a separate list called "Saved for Later". Save for Later and your Shopping Cart both keep track of price changes to items. If you had few items that you were thinking about buying but wanted to wait for a price drop, instead of checking the item's page every day, add it to your Saved for Later cart and check it every once and a while. Any changes to prices will be noted at the top of the screen the first time you check after the price changes. Be careful though - if you refresh or click the cart again, the message is gone. Amazon only alerts you the first time you click your cart after the price change. The good thing about Save for Later and your Shopping Cart is that it will list all the changes to all of the items listed in your inventory - even if it spans multiple pages. So if you have 100 items in your Saved for Later list, and Amazon changes the prices on all 100 items, it will list every single change on a single page.

Wish List

Your Wish List isn't just a repository of items you want to eventually grab, it's also another price tracker. Every item in your Wish List remembers the price when it was added. Any change to the price is also noted on the item itself - Price dropped 5% (was $117.28 when added). The Wish List is like a manual version of the Save for Later or Shopping Cart. If you have multiple pages of items, you have to click on each page and scan through the list - there's no bulk summary at the top of the page. The Wish List is great for items that you are moderately interested in, but isn't high on your priority list. You can also build several Wish Lists (and set varying degrees of privacy). I keep one specifically for books, and one with everything else.

Limitations of the Shopping Cart, Save for Later, and Wish List

Note that any item added to any of the three lists above only reflect the price from the seller you added it from. In other words, if you added an item sold by Amazon Warehouse, and the price for Amazon.com drops lower, it will only tell you if the price changed for Amazon Warehouse. The same goes for any third party sellers. You should also know that the historical price change notification on both the Shopping Cart and Save for Later does tend to glitch out now and then. They removed the functionality completely for a few weeks last year either as part of an upgrade process, or simply forgot about it. Either way, there was quite a few requests for the functionality to be re-added, so it's back now. However it seems like if Amazon.com has any problems whatsoever, this is the first thing to go missing. So if you're watching a specific item intently, it doesn't hurt to manually track it or use CCC.

Amazon Warehouse

There seems to be a lot of questions about Amazon Warehouse - hopefully this will help a few of you out.

The Warehouse is Amazon's version of the "Open Box" or "Customer Returned" or "Damaged" isle at a big box store. It is not the same as the Amazon Outlet. The biggest difference between the Outlet and the Warehouse is that the Outlet items are considered New goods (although they do have refurbs), where as the Warehouse items have been opened and/or used previously. Warehouse items are limited in number and are often not marked down as much as you might think. The Outlet is comprised of items that have usually hit the 30% or more markdown price point (from MSRP). They're usually seasonal or overstocked items.

Biggest tips with the Warehouse:

  • Look at the condition options - Every item listed on the Warehouse will come in various conditions. Each item sold will have the overall condition listed as well as notes on why the condition is graded as it is.

  • "Every item I've gotten from the Warehouse has been Like New / Broken / Missing Parts" - The grading on products is manual and probably done in a rush. I would suggest avoiding items with tons of parts - if a previous customer opened up a build kit with 800 screws, the chances are high that you'll probably end up with a few missing parts. Meanwhile a blender will most likely be fine. Also, the worker's definition of "small cosmetic imperfection" may be completely different than yours. Be aware that you probably won't get something that looks perfect.

  • Always check Amazon.com's prices - You don't always save a whole lot by buying used. You have to ask if it's worth getting a used item versus a brand new item just to save $2-3.

  • All items are covered by Amazon - All items on the Warehouse are no longer covered by Manufacturer's Warranties but are covered by Amazon's A-to-z Guarantee Protection. All items are returnable for Amazon's standard 30-day policy.

  • Neat Link - Amazon Warehouse Deals Brand Listing. Just a quick link to the brands currently available on Amazon Warehouse.
u/thugIyf3 · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Hmm I think this is a good game to play. I would like to open this up to everyone and have them comment on the exact model of what I have in my picture. I'll edit my post with the confirmation and links of what everything is. Clues: look at old version of my battle stations

Go!

Laptop: [Dell XPS 15 L521X] (http://www.amazon.com/Dell-XPS-XPS15-9062sLV-15-Inch-Laptop/dp/B009FX7BWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022233&sr=8-1&keywords=l521x) [System Specs] (http://i.imgur.com/x4VrjFg.png)

Laptop Stand: [Cooler Master Ergostand] (http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-ErgoStand-Adjustable/dp/B003GCQ1YI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022264&sr=8-2&keywords=cooler+master+ergostand)

Webcam: [Logitech C/B 910] (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-960-000683-B910-HD-Webcam/dp/B0040508OY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022290&sr=8-2&keywords=logitech+910)

Speakers: [2 pair of Dayton B652] (http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022347&sr=8-1&keywords=b652)

Keyboard: [CM Storm Trigger Black Switches] (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823129009)

Mouse: [Anker Gaming Mouse] (http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Programmable-Gaming-Cartridge-Switches/dp/B00CDINUTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022458&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+5000+dpi)

USB Hub: [Anker 13 port USB 3.0 hub] (http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-13-Port-Charging-VL812-B2/dp/B00GSLMTQ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022483&sr=8-2&keywords=anker+10+port+hub)

Computer screens: [2 of LGE2242] (http://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-EB2242T-BN-22-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B007XNRAQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022508&sr=8-1&keywords=lg+e2242)

Monitor Mount: [Vivo Monitor Stand] (http://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Mount-Stand-Adjustable-Screens/dp/B009S750LA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022540&sr=8-1&keywords=vivo+stand)

Receiver: [JVC 703VBK] (http://i.imgur.com/LvoOg2x.jpg)

Hexagonal device: [Moto Stream] (http://www.amazon.com/Moto-Stream-Wireless-Music-Adapter/dp/B00L4VZZFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022672&sr=8-1&keywords=moto+stream)

Subwoofer: [Yamaha YST-SW012] (http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YST-SW012-8-Inch-Front-Firing-Subwoofer/dp/B000TQ4D8K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414023087&sr=1-1&keywords=yst+sw012)

Headphones: [Monoprice 108323] (http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108323-Premium-Hi-Fi-Headphone/dp/B007SP2CO2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414022699&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+headphones)

Hard drive: [Seagate 3TB expansion drive] (http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV3000100/dp/B00834SJU8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414023141&sr=1-2&keywords=seagate+3tb)

Cased device on top of hard drive: [Raspberry Pi B] (http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-512MB-Computer/dp/B00LPESRUK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414023042&sr=1-1&keywords=raspberry+pi)

Chair (this is a hard one): I forget

u/techhorder · 3 pointsr/htpc

Good price, but they have the 4tb for only $29 more.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00834SJU8/

u/The_Other_Manning · 3 pointsr/xboxone
u/WhySheHateMe · 2 pointsr/htpc

Here's my build:

Lian Li Q25B | Asus P8H77-I | Intel Celeron G540 | 4GB RAM | 20TB | UNRAID Plus


I recently swapped out the ram for a 16GB kit because some of the apps use a lot of memory. The drives I am using in this build are Seagate Expansion 3TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STBV3000100

They are cheaper than bare drives and they are easy to pop open to get the drive out. This method isn't for everyone because you have to be careful with it. But, I haven't had any problems.

I am running Plex with this and I stream to 3 Roku 3s around the house and I also feed 2 xbmc boxes with this bad boy as well.

I an using Unraid You can get the basic OS from Unraid for free so that you can test it out. [They have a pro and a plus version as well that gives you more options.] (http://lime-technology.com/registration-keys/)

I like it a lot. I wish I could use utorrent or rtorrent with it...but those are in progress. I've been running with this setup for 5 months and have never had anything bad happen.

There are plugins for APC brand UPS devices as well as plugins that will email you periodically to let you know whats going on with the NAS. There are monthly parity checks to make sure that the parity drive is synched up with the array. There are also S.M.A.R.T checks that are run before you receive a status email (I mentioned above).




Here is what my array looks like from a browser

*The silver bubbles on the array page just means the disk is spun down. There is another disk that you don't see and that's the cache/apps drives which shows up under its own tab. Sickbeard is also not listen on the apps page with everything else because I am running TPB edition of sickbeard and had to install it manually.

u/rehpotsirhc123 · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

Seagate externals have the save drives inside of them if you don't mind cracking all of the cases open: link

You may even be able to sell the enclosures.

Edit: sorry I didn't see that you already had bought all of this stuff.

u/spdorsey · 2 pointsr/audio

Perhaps this is too complicated for her, but I would recommend an external hard drive for about $100. She could keep an iTunes library on that hard drive and rip her CDs into it. Then she would have an easy way to play her music anywhere in the house. If you also add an Apple TV to that, then she can stream her music to her television and listen to the music on the speakers in her apartment.

Perhaps you could do the work for her and help copy the music to the hard drive using iTunes.

I know a lot of people will say that iTunes is not the best app out there, but I find it to be very easy to use and, on the highest settings, it rips a pretty good MP3 from a CD. I have been using it since it first was launched, and I have never had any issues. I'm very happy with it.

Make sure you go into iTunes before converting any of the CDs and make sure that it is ripping to the MP3 format. Choose a suitably high bit rate, 256 or higher, and you will have audio that is, in my opinion, almost as good as the original CDs.

Good luck! Message me if you need anymore help.

Moving iTunes media folder to an external hard drive
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201562


Seagate Expansion 3TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STBV3000100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00834SJU8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7R1Gub1A56W95


u/yurps · 2 pointsr/htpc

Wouldn't using a usb 3.0 external drive be just as effective as your Firewire 800 drives? I was looking at drives such as this, which is considerably cheaper than the Lacie drives (about half the price). I looked online at firewire vs usb3 speeds, and it seems like they're about the same.

u/CeeeeeJaaaaay · 2 pointsr/buildapc

4 TB for less than 100$ are really hard to find, and I personally wouldn't trust a "random company" over something as important as an HDD. Here's a 3 TB external USB 3.0 HDD by Seagate for 105 $:

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV3000100/dp/B00834SJU8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1405104057&sr=1-3

u/Poondoggie · 1 pointr/photography

Buy the Time Capsule if you really want, but you can only use it as a backup. You cannot use it as extra storage. As in OS X won't let you. It'd designed to be an idiot proof backup solution that works without any configuration whatsoever, which means it's just a backup and nothing else.

More importantly, you need to have a minimum of two copies of everything you cannot lose. A backup is not a backup if you only have one.

Get an external hard drive to store your photos, and then back up everything (both the external drive and your computer) to another external hard drive. For a little more money, this is an even better backup solution. Set it up in RAID-1. Time Machine will handle everything else after that. Just let it run.

And then pay for a service like Backblaze or Crashplan. If your home gets burglarized or burned down, you don't want to lose everything.

u/ihaveascreenname · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I bought a Seagate 3TB 7200RPM external drive on sale from Amazon a while back. Even not on sale, it's currently $120. Then I just popped the external case off and used it as an internal drive.

u/summalummadooma · 1 pointr/xboxone

It will.

Can I suggest another option too? I recently picked this up

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00834SJU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 TB more storage for close to the same price (if you use prime).

u/ToastyyPanda · 1 pointr/GearsOfWar

I'm not the op, but I have this one here.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00834SJU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1475068660&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3+tb+external+hdd&dpPl=1&dpID=31iKxxVF%2BML&ref=plSrch

It's served me pretty well since July 2014. You'll have some people who swear against Seagate, but the reality is that all hard drives will fail eventually. WD is a good make too, it's hard to go wrong. I believe I paid about $115 Canadian for mine, was on sale.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/xboxone

I always stick to western digital or seagate because they are built very well. But if you need to save money, just go for any of the choices on amazon.com when looking up an HDD. Make sure to add USB 3.0 in the search bar.

Here is an example of one I have

u/thefaceinthewall · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Here's for the backup.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00834SJU8?cache=3392610c4d6755b48b40090a7b164763&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1406219695&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

And for the monitor. Look at screen size, refresh rate, panel type, and resolution. Here's the cheapest 24in monitor with decent specs.

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/aoc-monitor-e2425swd

u/deathsmetal · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Decent $0.026/GB . Just for comparison, Amazon has this drive for $102.75

u/citrus3000psi · 1 pointr/ps3hacks

I've had the best luck with 3tb Seagate Expansion drives.

I have 3 of these connected up to my PS3. All my games are in ISO format and the drives formatted to NTFS. When they were fat32 they take forever to load the game list etc.

btw when I was testing only 64k clusters worked with fat32.

My drives are all mbr primary single partion. They both worked fat32 and ntfs. NTFS just preformed better. Multiman cannot read 3tb ntfs drives though. Iris based managers have no problem though.

u/sabin357 · 1 pointr/htpc

I'll give input per part if that's ok. Sorry if it's long, but I'm trying to be helpful.

CPU: I love this CPU. It may be overkill depending on the emulation you intend on doing. You could save quite a bit ($60 with A4) without performance suffering by using an A4 or A6.

MOBO: This is a pretty powerful board for an HTPC. It looks like overkill, but the MOBO is the most important part in a PC. You could choose a cheaper board if you want.

Storage: While amazing for gaming, I think that an SSD is wasted in an HTPC. The system is likely to be always on, so the boot times don't matter & media players don't have load times to speak of. You could get 3 HDD's for slightly more & set up RAID5 since your MOBO supports it.

Here's what I personally would do: Buy 3x 3TB external drives, remove them from the enclosures & setup up RAID5. This would protect you from losing your media to HDD failure somewhat.

Case: I love these cases. I want to build something with them some time.

PSU: Using one in a build now. Good stuff.

Other thoughts: You could run your OS (with emulators) from a USB thumb drive. XBMCbuntu is the one I've used.

u/sangriaz · 1 pointr/xboxone

I have 1.5TB and constantly running out of space. In the long run, it is better to spend a little bit more money and get a bigger hdd like 3TB or 4TB.

3TB: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV3000100/dp/B00834SJU8

4TB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178741

They are a bit more costly than what you asked for, but I seriously advise against anything less than 2TB.

u/redditgizmos · 1 pointr/computers

would you mind telling me whether this has a good enclosure? Https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV3000100/dp/B00834SJU8

I see it has fans covering a large amount of on the side where you plug in the usb/power, do you think that's good enough?

u/TK_Turk · 1 pointr/xboxone

This is the seagate I have. My buddy had an extra and gave it to me for free.

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV3000100/dp/B00834SJU8

u/kengkoy · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Ok i saw this on Amazon I think I'm just gonna buy this one.

u/vagrantwade · 1 pointr/xboxone

Most people have also been buying 5400 rpm drives because they apparently don't care about speed benefits.

Actually apparently this Seagate is 7200rpm;

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV3000100/dp/B00834SJU8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1401992892&sr=8-3&keywords=seagate+3tb

I would go with it.

u/R3T1CAL · 1 pointr/xboxone

I have the:

Seagate Expansion 3TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STBV3000100)





A 2TB Seagate is only $8 dollars more than 1TB drive, making the choice between 1 or 2TB a no brainer. For an additional $25 you'll get 3TB (the perfect balance between price and performance IMO). You end up spending an additional $45 to get 4TB.


Since cost isn't a huge factor you should do 3TB since it hit the sweet spot between price and performance. Drives larger than 3TB tend to have a higher failure rate.

u/loonybhatia · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

One of these! They last a lifetime and are clickyish.
or this to store all your pr0n lulz

u/iAteTheWeatherMan · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yes I have played .avi on it before from a flash drive. So I should just grab a cheap HDD and set it to fat32?

Also do I need to pay attention to the type/speed of the hard drive? Or just grab one that has a good price-size ratio?

like this one?:

http://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV3000100/dp/B00834SJU8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407932946&sr=8-3&keywords=external+HDD ?