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Reddit mentions of ORICO Toolfree USB 3.0 to SATA External 3.5 Hard Drive Enclosure Case for 3.5 SATA HDD and SSD[Support UASP and 16TB Drives]

Sentiment score: 13
Reddit mentions: 45

We found 45 Reddit mentions of ORICO Toolfree USB 3.0 to SATA External 3.5 Hard Drive Enclosure Case for 3.5 SATA HDD and SSD[Support UASP and 16TB Drives]. Here are the top ones.

ORICO Toolfree USB 3.0 to SATA External 3.5 Hard Drive Enclosure Case for 3.5 SATA HDD and SSD[Support UASP and 16TB Drives]
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
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    Features:
  • Supports: Most 3.5 inch SATA I, II, III HDD or SSD up to 16TB (Max); Compatible with Windows, Macintosh, Linux and Unix Desktops or Laptops;Support UASP.
  • Featuring: Tool free installation; Plug and Play; No Reboot and Driver needed; USB 3.0 connection offers data transfer rates of up To 5 Gbps.
  • Technical: Material: ABS plastic + Metal; Data transfer port: USB 3.0+SATA III; Support capacity: 16TB; Power adapter: 12V2A
  • Stable: A shock-proof sponge is installed on the bottom cap of the hard drive enclosure making the hard drive more stable and safer.
  • What's In the Box: 1x USB 3.0 3.5 Inch HDD External Enclosure; 1x 12V/2A US Power Adapter; 1x USB 3.0 Data Cable; 1x User Manual; 1x Service Card.
Specs:
ColorBlack USB 3.0
Height1.2204724397 Inches
Length7.6377952678 Inches
Weight0.88 Pounds
Width4.6456692866 Inches

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Found 45 comments on ORICO Toolfree USB 3.0 to SATA External 3.5 Hard Drive Enclosure Case for 3.5 SATA HDD and SSD[Support UASP and 16TB Drives]:

u/Fate_Creator · 8 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

If you're looking for a compromise, buy an SSHD with a USB 3.0 enclosure. Got a 2TB SSHD for $89. Here's a good breakdown of the speed difference between SSD, SSHD, and HDD.

[Seagate 2TB FireCuda Gaming SSHD] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKG2HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_2qaAo2kgu9Aqc)

ORICO Toolfree USB 3.0 to SATA External Hard Disk Drive Enclosure Case for 3.5" SATA HDD and SSD

u/MathWizPatentDude · 3 pointsr/computers

Consider purchasing an external drive and do a back up NOW. They are relatively inexpensive, and space keeps getting cheaper so it is likely you can store all your legacy data in a backup on a single drive (or more than one backup on more than one drive) so the data is safe. SATA to USB is still very much alive. I recommended this and this today to someone else on reddit. This fixes the data part of this discussion, I hope.

As far as Win 10 goes, when operating on legacy and lower end equipment, Win 10 does a pretty good job. It does not follow the typical microsoft trajectory of BLOAT until the machine can actually handle it. I have found that Win 10 will sort of scale back on lower end equipment and works rather well. Further, with the Internet, drivers that are not recognized by windows as appropriate (and fully functional) should be easy to find. To this end, though, I would suggest not relying on legacy equipment forevermore; have an upgrade or replacement plan in mind.

I guess I don't truly understand what info you are looking for. Any feedback to guide the discussion?

u/ddshd · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

It's is not recommended to power a hard drive off the Pi.

You will need a powered enclosure or a adapter.
Here is one is use: Link.

u/CrossedZebra · 3 pointsr/techsupport

I usually recommend this for 3.5 drives - https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/

They also have full alu ones for a bit more, but I actually prefer ABS plastic. But feel free to choose other designs or brands, as long as they good reviews it should be fine.

I'd recommend a WD Blue 4TB or 3TB - around $115 and $85 respectively on Amazon. Best price vs performance. WD Reds are also good if you can find them cheaper, Greens are a bit too slow for me (unless for long term storage) - they power down when idle a lot.

u/Guardian1030 · 2 pointsr/applehelp

I would probably put it in an appropriately sized enclosure with a USB 3 out, and plug it into the various computers. It might still say that it's "data on so-n-so's time capsule" and the computer may not actually know the difference if the name matches the original time capsule.

This one Is a tool free 2.5

And this one Is for a 3.5 inch drive. Also tool free.

u/raj_prakash · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

I used two of these ORICO USB3.0 3.5" drive enclosures with it's own power supply (supports UASP) to house 8TB drives connected to my Orange Pi PC for about a year in a BTRFS RAID1 configuration with no issues, no overheating drives, fast speeds, and reliable operation.

I sold one a few weeks ago, and (shameless plug), I'm looking to sell the other one if you are interested. The only reason I stopped using them is because I recently came into ownership of a HP Microserver Gen7 that holds 6 drives.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAML7OK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Targren · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

How many drives is "a lot?" Assuming you mean more than just the 4 in the NAS; You can get a bare chassis with 8 internal 3.5" bays for under $75, throw in a decent PSU for another $100, and a low-powered combo kit for $250 or less. Anything you can replace from your spares bins chops that much more off the top.

Or just grab a pile of enclosures and make them externals. Cheapest route.

u/Wiltron · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Id advise against using a USB-only cable. They're usually designed for 2.5" drives as they require and are engineered to need less power. It may work fine, but I'm a "Better safe than sorry" type of tech.

I'd recommend you get a 3.5" enclosure with a dedicated power, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/

u/Takeabyte · 2 pointsr/applehelp

Cool. Yeah you can just pop that thing open and put the drive in a new $20 enclosure like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qdbMBb7GVMPMN

u/nesterpr · 2 pointsr/xboxone

usb 3.0 external hdd enclosures work just fine. I have a Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 External Hard Drive Enclosure with a 6tb X300 Toshiba hdd on it. Works like a charm. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/w2tpmf · 2 pointsr/computers

Yes absolutely.

However you may be better off getting a 2.5" size drive. The 3.5" drives take more power to run, and the external enclosure will require an external power source. A 2.5" drive can be run off the power from the USB alone. So if you want something portable, get a 2.5" drive for sure, or if it's just going to sit on a desk or in a closet you can get a drive like the one you linked and get an enclosure for it.

3.5" HDD enclosure

2.5" HDD enclosure

u/BallsDeepInJesus · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I win the internet this time. But yeah, it is just his choice of the hot swappable dock rather than a full enclosure that makes it look all janky. If he had bought something like this, nobody would notice.

u/N0ttle · 1 pointr/ps2

Here is a link to the one I bought. It is USB 3.0 and powered. I had an old dongle style and it was disconnecting the drive all the time.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAML7OK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/SharkOnGames · 1 pointr/xbox

I just ordered this 4TB ($114.99 USD) and a $20 external enclosure:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JPKUU2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the enclosure:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAML7OK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I skipped the best buy deal because i wanted a 7200rpm drive as my external (best buy deal is for a 5400rpm). Not a need, just a want. I may buy the best buy deal for my home (non gaming) external storage. $80 is cheap for 4TB!

u/KingsBlade · 1 pointr/WiiUHacks

Try finding one that doesn't have a Y cable. I have one with an external power cable and it works fine.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAML7OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Metsubo · 1 pointr/cableadvice

ORICO Toolfree USB 3.0 to SATA External 3.5 Hard Drive Enclosure Case for 3.5 SATA HDD and SSD[Support UASP and 8TB Drives] https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MRyPCbYEVW8SX

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History


u/lastwraith · 1 pointr/techsupport

Actually, that's not always true. For larger size hard drives, it is often much cheaper to buy an external and "shuck" it (remove hard drive from the casing) and use that as an internal. If all you are interested is large amounts of storage for the best dollar.....shucking is the way to go.
But yes, if you already have a hard drive laying around then obviously that is cheaper than buying an external. There should be no performance difference assuming your SATA to USB is USB 3.0 and your computer is too (vs a comparable external USB 3.0 drive). This is also assuming the external HD you had a purchasing eye on would have been the same type/size drive.
Modern 8-10 TB external drives are actually quite fast at sequential transfers (160+ MB/s) even though they are often "only" 5400rpm drives. Check out /r/DataHoarder and there are tons of threads regarding external drive shucking and the (very decent) "white" drives you get inside. I have a few 8 and 10 TB sealed Helium drives and they are fast, cool, and cheap. No complaints and I wouldn't want to replace them with anything else near the price point.
If you are going to DIY an external drive though, best to get something that offers full protection for the drive vs just a SATA to USB adapter. There is basically no price difference between a USB 3: SATA-USB adapter, dock/toaster, or enclosure. So if it is basically going to be permanent, why not go with the enclosure?
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK
Or just ask for some enclosures in another thread and I'm sure other drive shuckers have a stack laying around! (or hit ebay)

u/FoN925 · 1 pointr/PS4

You ordered a 2TB drive and were accidentally sent an 8TB drive instead?

Well, I guess that's your good luck then.

In that case, just return the data bank, buy an external enclosure like this and use it as external storage. Just be SURE that the enclosure you buy supports USB 3.0. The PS4 will not even recognize anything that isn't 3.0 compliant.

u/Poopmin · 1 pointr/buildapc

Not a great sign, but some mobos have a hard time showing new HDDs. Recommend trying a few different sata ports for the HDD. Do you have an external enclosure that would fit your 3.5 HDD? Something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453821126&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5+inch+hdd+enclosure

You could put the HDD in there and plug in to a working machine and see if windows detects in in disk management. If windows doesn't detect it, your disk could be fucked.

I still think you're getting that message because your windows 7 install disc isn't good.

u/TeamRedRocket · 1 pointr/wiiu

Will the following external HDD enclosure and drive work or have I wasted time?

Enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAML7OK/
Drive: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK/

It's a USB 3.0 enclosure w/a 1Tb drive.

I keep getting drive "cannot be formatted" message once I go to format this.

I've tried w/MBR or GPT, unallocated space, NTFS drive, FAT32 drive. Any combination thereof. I've tried the USB in all of the ports. The drive is externally powered so I don't think that is an issue.

Before I waste any more time, is there anything else I should be doing or am I missing a step?

u/a_single_testicle · 1 pointr/buildapc

No, that cable is for connecting peripherals. If you want to use nothing but a USB cable to connect two PCs, you will need one that's bridged.

Alternatives would be using an external enclosure to connect the old disk to the new system, or just installing it as a second disk internally.

u/jereyn · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

If its 3TB, I'm guessing its a 3.5" drive? I'm not certain, but I doubt the Pi's USB ports are capable of putting out enough to power on that kind of drive. I just looked at the power brick that came with a 2TB external drive I have, and it says it outputs 1.5A, so I'm guessing the drive uses something close to that.

Here is a cheap enclosure that I think would work for you: https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496184955&sr=8-2&keywords=external+sata+to+usb+enclosure I know its annoying to have to use 2 outlets, I tried to find the best solution for it and ended up just using a 128GB thumb drive, which was big enough for my needs.

u/plsgokys · 1 pointr/techsupport

This is a 3.5" HDD. You won't get enough power from USB to use it. If you plan to use this as an external hard drive then you will probably have to buy a case like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK

u/zixmanroll · 1 pointr/pcgaming

Hello! I've run out of space on my current laptop 256gb ssd, and I was wondering how viable it is to just have all my games on a separate hard drive? I'm looking at a WD Blue 1TB 7200 RPM 3.5'' + HDD enclosure and I was planning on just downloading the steam games to a steam library on the hard drive. I can't really afford any of the more expensive solutions like upgrading the storage on my ssd, so I was looking at other solutions. Would this work? What are the downsides to this? Are there better solutions? I currently plan on playing anything from smaller less intensive titles like hollow knight all the way to things like dark souls iii. Thank you!

u/shawnjawn · 1 pointr/buildapc

I want to have several devices plugged into my computer via USB at all times. This will include my USB hub (powered with AC adapter), mouse, keyboard, webcam, USB microphone, wireless headphone charger, Xbox One controller adapter, external HDD (powered with AC adapter)
, and 2 USB powered SSDs.


What should be plugged into the USB hub and what shouldn’t? I’m assuming m+kb, and controller adapter should not be plugged in due to latency. But how about the webcam, mic, and 3 external drives? I do record gameplay through OBS so I don’t want bad quality with the webcam or mic. I also use my external drives to store games that I play every once in a while.

u/rayman3003 · 1 pointr/Piracy

None of those. I suggest u to buy:

​

An Internal WD HDD (Choose one that meets your budget) + A HDD Enclosure (U buy this only 1 time & u can use it for any upcoming HDDs):

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=psdc_160354011_t3_B00LS5NFQ2

u/YouGotAte · 1 pointr/GreatXboxDeals

ORICO Toolfree USB 3.0 to SATA External Hard Disk Drive Enclosure Case for 3.5" SATA HDD and SSD[Support UASP and 8TB Drives] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y7VRybMFJSBY2

This looks fine to me

u/Dragonball93x · 1 pointr/PS4

You're going to need an additional power source to power that drive since a USB port doesn't supply enough, potentially damaging your PS4.

So this is what you'll need if you want to use a 3.5in drive https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486515873&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+3.5+enclosure

u/BionicSammich · 1 pointr/xboxone

Go for This HDD. Its a little more expensive, but its got much better reliability (According to this study) and is 7200RPM (faster loading times, basically). Its got a 3 year warranty too. There is a version with a 5 year warranty (Ultrastar instead of Deskstar), but its not worth it for the price. You'll also need an enclosure too. Something like this will get the job done. Others are great too, just make sure that are for 3.5 inch drives (not 2.5 inch) and are USB 3.0 compatible.

u/truetofiction · 1 pointr/buildapc

Docks / cases for 3.5" drives will come with an external power supply. I've had this one for around two years and it works well.

u/zyck_titan · 1 pointr/buildapc

I would get something like this, it literally turns your old HDD into a USB external hard drive.

You don't have to worry about boot order if you remember to keep the old drive disconnected while the computer is booting. Then once the computer is up and running, you can connect the old drive through USB and copy all the files you want.

u/rpeopler · 1 pointr/wiiu

No idea if this would help whatsoever, but I'm using this enclosure:

http://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1464964577&sr=8-14&keywords=hard+drive+enclosure

Additionally, it is detected by my PS3 so it isn't exclusive to Windows OS.

u/Sophira · 1 pointr/windows

I'm honestly quite surprised you have no CD drive in your computer. Is it custom-built? (The Asus Z170I is a motherboard, not a computer, which is why I ask.)

If you happen to have a floppy drive on your computer (unlikely) and the drivers are small enough to fit on a floppy disc, you could perhaps copy them onto such a disc and use that.

Otherwise, your best bet will probably be to install a CD drive, at least temporarily. Another option is taking the hard drive out, connecting it to another computer (via a USB enclosure such as this one - or if you choose another one, make sure it's for 3.5" SATA disks), copying the LAN driver installation files onto the disk, then connecting it back up to the original computer and installing it from there.

Crossing my fingers for you.

[edit: Removing extraneous word.]

u/maybebaked · 1 pointr/techsupport

You could get something like this.

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

> 17:31 long with no actual work being done for the first two minutes.

No offense, but it's going to be hard for your viewers to want to show any interest in such a long video unless you grab their attention quickly. I honestly couldn't watch the whole thing, so I skipped through 90% of the video.

Secondly, the external case you are repairing is USB 2.0. Any techie worth their salt would immediately know it's dated technology. Why would I spend $15 repairing old hardware when I can spend $20 and get a brand new enclosure that's 10 times faster? Literally, the first result on Amazon when searching for a 3.5" drive enclosure.

Thirdly, I don't understand where or why the 3 random iPhones appeared and the "Don't worry, I'm not super rich" comment is really awkward. They were not in any of the scenes prior to that, they just magically appeared so it seems that they were deliberately placed as an afterthought. The video is pretty well edited, so I don't understand why you didn't edit it out or at least reshoot the scene.

Good on you for not having the mentality of throw away what's broken and buy another one. My issue is... a USB 2.0 drive enclosure is slow. Nobody wants to read/write to a 1TB drive when you're limited to about 50MB/sec speeds.

u/majoroutage · 1 pointr/buildapc
  1. That enclosure is too small. I personally have [this one](
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_XLOHxbVSX6CF7) and it works quite well. It's even toolless and you can swap the drive out very easily if you need to use it as a dock every now and then.

  2. Don't waste a Black in an external enclosure. I would use a Red.
u/rinwashere · 0 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
  1. I don’t know if this is still a thing, but with some packaged external hard drives, if the USB to hard drive board dies, the drive itself is useless, even if you remove it from their enclosure. Unless you can find the same model packaged hard drive, buy it again, your contents are basically gone. I think Western Digital MyBook and some Easystores have this problem.

  2. There are tool-less enclosures for $20 where you just plop the drive in and you’re done. No screws to mess around with.

    With my own enclosure, I can replace it if the USB to SATA bridge dies, or I can replace the hard drive if it dies. I can’t do that with a packaged one.