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Reddit mentions of Patternmaking for Menswear
Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 6
We found 6 Reddit mentions of Patternmaking for Menswear. Here are the top ones.
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- Used Book in Good Condition
Features:
Specs:
Height | 11.2 Inches |
Length | 8.85 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | October 2013 |
Weight | 2.7337318702871 Pounds |
Width | 1.1 Inches |
I just started down this path myself. Luckily my mom has a sewing machine and some basic knowledge of how to use it, so that's been really helpful. It's an old-school fully mechanical Bernina, not sold any more but it looks to be similar to the 1008 model. Really nice machine, fast, quiet, has a ton of built-in stitches, a button-hole-maker, and easily interchangeable presser feet, but it's also way more expensive than I would spend if I had to buy my own. Unfortunately I don't have any recommendations for entry-level machines. But certainly it's worth it to do some research on what it needs to be capable of doing. For example,
basic equipment:
patterns:
I was lucky and happened to want to get started at the same time as McCall's was having a huge sale, so I was able to get a bunch for $3 each. But usually they're more expensive. Do some research; there are good patterns, and shit patterns. Also, the instructions that come with patterns are universally crap. And by that I mean they're optimized for a combination of the lowest-common-denominator of sewing skills, and a minimal amount of print-space. Definitely read them front-to-back before you begin, but also supplement the included instructions with an ample dose of youtube videos.
I tried starting with a dress shirt; that was a mistake. Very difficult. (It didn't help that the pattern I got for it fell into the shit category, and I ended up needing to make a ton of modifications. McCall's M6044. Do not recommend.). I'm currently in the middle of my third muslin and it's starting to come out okay, but I still don't feel comfortable giving it a go with the good fabric. Fleece is very easy to work with; I just finished one that come out actually pretty decent, using the Kwik Sew K4032 pattern. It's got some challenging parts, especially the directions for the zipper pockets weren't very good, but on the whole way more simple than a dress shirt.
supplies:
I had a really tough time finding good sources of by-the-yard fabric online. I ended up ordering from califabrics.com. I'm happy with everything I got, but it's kind of a crap-shoot if you don't order samples first. Would recommend sourcing fabric locally, if you can, or at least order samples before you commit to a bunch of yards.
I got my zippers from sailrite.com. As you can guess from the name, they're very focused on nautical stuff, but they have a good assortment of YKK zippers that are way less expensive than anywhere else I could find. Good youtube instructional videos too.
Otherwise, I got some stuff from Joann's (check online first, sometimes they have online-only sales but let you pick up in-store), and random sellers on amazon (muslin was cheapest there, but the stuff at Joann's was much nicer, almost good enough to actually wear if you wanted to).
resources i've found helpful:
I think it's because sewing is predominantly female hobby, so pattern companies ignore menswear...
Burda magazine has some patterns
http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns?for=2&page=1
https://beta.burdastyle.de/shop/schnittmuster/herren
You can also try to learn pattern drafting with these books
https://www.amazon.com/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938
https://www.amazon.com/Patternmaking-Menswear-Gareth-Kershaw/dp/1780670168
https://www.amazon.com/Patternmaking-Menswear-Contemporary-Myoungok-Kim/dp/160901944X
I did what u/Pancake_nips said (except I just took measurements and did some tracing instead of disassembling the garment) and it worked out pretty well. Here's a very useful sew-along.
It takes a lot more work, but you can make your own pattern from scratch. This book gives you directions on making a sloper, and then has instructions for several patterns based off of that, including jeans (and tops and outerwear too).
Looks like maybe bleached e:
denimcanvas which you can then distress and dirty. You can then preserve that and get the "hard" layer by waxing it.This and this are good books for patternmaking. The second offers halfscale patterns that you can blow up and modify if you have access to a plotter.
Construction is going to be pretty difficult to learn, especially manipulating denim with a home sewing machine. You'll want to learn how to do a flat felled seam if you're working with denim. Unfortunately, the roping will be hard to achieve without a chain stitch machine.
You know AI, so this is really just about how to draft patterns.
There's a number of books on the subject, but for you (based on your post looking for men's sewing patterns) I would recommend
Patternmaking for Menswear by Gareth Kershaw: https://www.amazon.com/Patternmaking-Menswear-Gareth-Kershaw/dp/1780670168
This will read as a shameless plug, but the patterns on makemypattern.com can be downloaded as an SVG that you can open in AI. This obviously does not teach you to draft them, but it does allow you to tweak them.
It is tougher starting out as a guy I think. Don't dismiss those outdated patterns. They are good for practice. A shirt is still a shirt even if its a little odd. But if you can afford it I have this one
https://www.amazon.com/Patternmaking-Menswear-Gareth-Kershaw/dp/1780670168
Well worth it for what I learned from it.