Reddit mentions of Renewing our Libraries: Case Studies in Re-planning and Refurbishment

Oh! You don't need to wait on the other stuff - well, unless /u/DMZ_Dragon says to, but like, nothing on the audio side is contingent on the PC setup.

I'm presently slightly grappling with how the recording and monitoring should work here - on a PC, you'd just route the audio output through your audio interface and live monitor your recording audio through the same device. However, since you want to do voice coms over the console, you'll need to use an input that works with it - which will either be a console-compatible ADC (if these exist at all? I'm not sure if such a market exists) or the normal input.

For a headset with a mic and TRRS output - let's say as an example Kingston's HyperX Cloud, because that's a fairly reasonable headset that's a common pick - [you can just connect it directly to an Xbox one controller so long as it's CTIA, which it should be in 2019] (https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/wired-headset-help). This means you'll only be getting whatever audio the game outputs, however, and you won't be able to monitor your stream mic. [Here is a very rough paint sketch of how things connect in that case] (https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/244316047258288128/602717684538540032/unknown.png).

Ideally, then, you'd want to connect your headset to your audio interface/your PC, monitor the game audio (so you can hear what's happening), but connect just its mic to the Xbox. From what I can tell, however - ex [Antlion's support page for their modmic] (https://antlionaudio.com/blogs/faqs/how-do-i-use-my-modmic-with-a-ps4-or-xbox-1) - it looks like normal TRS mic pinouts aren't compatible with the CTIA TRRS port on the Xbox controller (which makes sense). To get around this, you could use [a CTIA adapter] (https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-y-adapter) with just your mic plugged into it. [Here is another very rough paint sketch of how that connection would work] (https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/244316047258288128/602718385351950347/unknown.png).

That there will be latency on the monitor audio is also a factor - that is, getting the audio output from your PC's monitoring of the recorded stream may introduce enough delay to be annoying to you. Only you'll be able to figure that one out, however, as I can't find much in the way of data on loopback time for this sort of chain - I recommend getting a headset with a TRRS output, however, to ensure that worst-case you can use the console normally.

Assuming you took my advice on that front, my recommendation would look something like the following:

Headset: A [Kingston HyperX Alpha] (https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Alpha-Gaming-Headset/dp/B074NBSF9N/) for about $90 which is a pretty decent pair of headphones with a microphone for voice coms, good accessories, and a reasonable price. You can do better in audio fidelity, but given that you want a mic as well, you'd be paying more to do so and facing some somewhat kludge-y options for putting things together - if you do want to allocate more to headphones, just let me know. [This is the aforementioned splitter you'd need to plug the already-split mic output into] (https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-y-adapter).

Speakers: Either a pair of [JBL] (http://noaudiophile.com/JBL_LSR305/) [305s] (https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR305-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=jbl%2Blsr305&qid=1563770412&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-1-spons&th=1) for $260~ (also [cheaper] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/JBL/LSR305-Powered-Monitor-115397315.gc) [used] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/JBL/LSR305-Powered-Monitor-115397316.gc)) or a pair of [Behringer] (http://noaudiophile.com/Behringer_Truth_B2031A/) [B2030As] (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-B2030A-High-Resolution-Reference-Monitor/dp/B000Q6EHA2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_267_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P1M0M5HXNZ7C6A61SH0G) for about the same (as before [cheaper] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Behringer/Truth-B2031A-Powered-Monitor.gc) [used] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Behringer/Truth-B2031A-Powered-Monitor-115370730.gc) and you get the higher-end model as well) if you want higher output and waveguide/directivity quality is less significant to you. The JBLs, being rear-ported are better kept at least a moderate distance from the walls, whereas the Behringers are a bit larger and more cumbersome - I'd go the Behringer route myself, but there's something to be said for not buying from plagiarists.

Sub: [Dayton SUB-1200] (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1200-12-120-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-629?AID=1457483&PID=7112509&SID=45704X1167592Xb49ec94690de9baa7a1d4ac21fc74245&cjevent=f1446ac8ac0811e9805601c10a1c0e13) for $150. I'm historically a bit skeptical of cheap subs, but [Butterworth's Wirecutter review has in-room usable low-frequency output under CEA2010 standards being pretty decent] (https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-budget-subwoofer/#how-we-tested). You might need a bit of EQ (shill for EQualizerAPO as an option there) to flatten in-room response, depending, but the sub seems like a damn decent value for the money.

The budget is a tad bit tight at this point (unless you choose to avail yourself of the used options on the speakers), so for the mic and audio interface I'm only going to throw out some used recs unless you'd specifically like to reconfigure on that front. For the interface, [this Presonus Audiobox] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Presonus/Audiobox-USB-Audio-Interface-115552996.gc) should work (although Presonus' weird monitoring level knob always struck me as weird...), and an entry-level condenser mic like [this Audio-Technica AT2020] (https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDIO-TECHNICA-AT2020-CARDIOID-CONDENSER-MICROPHONE-P48-PRO-COMPANY-CORD-2245/113826761993?hash=item1a809a8d09:g:ADIAAOSwCJ9dEBDw) would put you at or above the norm for professional streaming (seriously, why do so many professional streamers use headset mics??).

Depending on the calls you make there, that should sum nearish to 600, but there might be some slack - just wanted to throw this out now since it looks like you're holding off on buying parts on my account, which uh, please don't feel the need, we should be able to get things working with your PC audio wise regardless, so please proceed.