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Reddit mentions of Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games

Sentiment score: 14
Reddit mentions: 43

We found 43 Reddit mentions of Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games. Here are the top ones.

Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games
Buying options
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    Features:
  • Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder For Your Pc Game DIY!
  • Generic Game Controller support PC & Raspberry Pi 1/2/3
  • Use this Encoder you can build your own Arcade Game Machine!
  • 100% Zero Delay USB Encoder to Arcade Joystick! High Quality!
  • Support All Joystick and Push Button types which with 4.8mm Terminal!
Specs:
Height3.149606296 Inches
Length5.118110231 Inches
Weight0.2755778275 Pounds
Width1.7716535415 Inches

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Found 43 comments on Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games:

u/TheCodyBrown · 26 pointsr/simracing

As you can imagine this took tons of work to design and build so please feel free to support a young engineering student with a donation at Paypal.me/TheCodyBrown

​

A good number of people asked for details about my shifter when I posted about my Humble Homemade Rig so here are the details!

https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/ajx88u/humble_homemade_rig_update_due_to_the/

https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/ahg8oi/my_humble_homemade_rig_t300_gt_with_custom/

​

I am too cheap to afford a TH8A and I don't care much for logitech shifters so I created my own. This uses a similar latching mechanism to other DIY shifters but I wanted to build a gated shifter that was completely self contained. The stiffness of the latching system is adjustable by tightening or changing out the spring!

This shifter uses a cheap USB encoder board (see link below) and 6 rocker switches to inform the game what gear is selected. This requires NO SOFTWARE at all! The PC simply sees it at as a game controller with a number of button inputs. The switches and board are just hot-glued in place, the switches need to be bent slightly to ensure contact with the shifter arm when in gear.

The rest of the shifter is made up of parts that you can find at a local hardware store and 3D printed components. I used PETG as it is crazy tough but any other type of filament can be used.

​

Link to 3D printing and Solidworks files:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HnrtLrVYvnTal1XV2tskPuMyhYl1CyV0/view

​

Link to the USB Encoder:

https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=F92TYCVT2K1Z&keywords=usb+encoder&qid=1549742145&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+enc%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-3

​

Let me know if you have any questions!

u/e39 · 18 pointsr/RetroPie

There's a lot to consider when choosing a joystick. It all comes down to personal preference and how much you want to spend.

American Style:
Happ parts were infused in arcade machines in the 80's and early 90's. if you grew up playing Mortal Kombat and Street Fighter 2 at your local bowling alley, you were touching Happ parts.

Durning this era, Happ sourced parts from a European manufacturer, Industrias Lorenzo or "IL". Now, Happ is owned by Suzo, operating under the name "Suzo-Happ" and sources all of their parts from China.

Industrias Lorenzo still exists today and sells the same parts from the golden era of US arcade gaming. Their "Euro Joystick" is awesome.

Personally, I built a 12 button (Start, Coin, A, B, X, Y, L, R, L1, R1, L2, R2) w. joystick using all IL parts. It feels exactly like the arcades I grew up in.

Japanese Style:
Sanwa rules the scene. These joysticks are extremely tight and compact, allowing the user to quickly get off button combinations without misfires. There's quite a bit of customization too (dealing with directional gate/restriction plates, colors, etc).

Everything about the Japanese style stick is built for efficiency. The buttons are very sensitive and require less force to trigger.

USB Encoder:
If you're not doing any competitive play and aren't considering multi-purposing the controller for a modern console, the Zero Delay USB Encoder is magnificent. It's very easy to use, comes with the wires and works as designed. Note: You may need 1 extra cable if you're using a Japanese style joystick.

A final heads up:
Be weary of the arcade joystick kits you find on eBay and Amazon. There's no way to vouch for the authenticity or quality of the parts. Again, it all comes down to budget. These kits will get the job done, but you may experience some in-game frustrations when certain things just don't feel like they're working (especially throwing a fireball in SF2).

I know this is a ton of information to absorb and research, but I found building an arcade stick to be quite enjoyable. Also, you don't need to be a master electrician to make this stuff work. It's mostly plug and play.

I've purchased parts from:
Paradise Arcade Shop
Focus Attack
UK Arcade World

The kits seem like a better deal, but if you piece together what you need, you gain a lot more customization (colors) and peace-of-mind (legitimate, authentic parts).

Again, this absolutely comes down to budget.

u/gruso · 8 pointsr/arma

> Zero Delay USB encoder

Oh that's a neat little kit!

I've looked at the Ultimarc arcade versions over the years, but they're a fair bit pricier.

u/bohplayer · 7 pointsr/StreetFighter

Well uh, I upvoted because otherwise you won't stay on the first page. Have you tried using the "motioninjoy" driver? (google it)


Worst case scenario if the board is malfunctioning you'll have to spend 10 bucks to buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK

u/gwdope · 6 pointsr/hoggit

Home made, but it’s really simple. these boards make it a snap.

u/joshj5hawk · 5 pointsr/farmingsimulator

One of these guys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/

Windows sees it as a generic USB Joystick so you can just map and go!

u/Arienna · 5 pointsr/DanceDanceRevolution

Hey Cobalt flux has issues with post new models of Windows, it's a known problem. If you've got a multimeter you can test to make sure that depressing arrows sends a signal. As long as your pad itself isn't borked (and even if it is, you can probably fix it, they're very simple), you might consider wiring your own USB controller. I did two for my fluxes with one of these (See below) and a no solder VGA. Less than $20 and an hour each and they work better than running through an adapter ever did. If you decide to go that route, drop me a line and I'll be happy to walk you through the process.

https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504732669&sr=8-1&keywords=0+delay+usb+encoder

u/tack12 · 5 pointsr/Games

> is that capcom's fault? are there games that recognize ps3/4 controllers without installing third-party drivers? or is the problem that even with drivers you can't use them in game?

Abso-fucking-lutely. USF4, Skullgirls, Guilty Gear AC+R and Xrd, Blazblue, and KoF13 work. Hell even Melty Blood works. Right now, you have to use x360ce to get it to work on SF5

I use this as my PCB which also works on my PS3 no problem.

Which explains why they implemented legacy stick support on PS4 in the shitty way that they did. When you're able to purchase a $14 (even cheaper on eBay) PCB and take 10-15 minutes to rewire instead of dishing out $200 for a new stick, it's going to hurt your sales from your deal with Madcatz.

How do they try to avoid bad press? By announcing legacy stick support out of "good will"! But implement it in a shitty way by requiring a DS4. Make it as pain in the ass as possible that it'll waste even more in tournaments doing syncing, button checks, and praying the DS4 battery doesn't die. That is if it doesn't get banned in tournaments because some guy forgot to unsync his DS4 and interrupted the next match.

u/dearner · 4 pointsr/AskElectronics

Your best bet is probably to use something like an Arduino Leonardo which can do mouse/keyboard emulation. Another option would be to use an off-the-shelf USB encoder and some intermediate circuitry (or, again, an Arduino) to convert the pot's resistance to a low/high signal.

u/captiantofuburger · 3 pointsr/cade

I think I get what you are trying to do here, but it doesn't make a lot of sense to me. So you want to run a pi more or less with arcade controllers? If that's the case, I think you are really going the long way around for no real reason.

The video you linked is for a switch, which makes sense to me, if you wanted arcade controls to play on a nintendo switch, I don't know much about the switch but I'm assuming hacking up a controller like that is the only option as of now.

Getting back to the pi, there's no reaaaalllll reason I can think of to hack up a controller. It's just going to be messy and lot of soldering and time for no real reason. I think you would be far better off buying an encoder and saving yourself some headache.

to try an simplify, let's say you have a pi (or computer) running whatever arcade game you want, and you have a keyboard hooked up to play it. You press "w" to go forward, "s" to go back, etc etc doesn't matter. If you have just a normal keyboard there's a board inside of it called an encoder, its what figures out if you pressed 'w' or 's' or whatever else key you did.

Now if you have a computer/pi that works with a keyboard (more or less anything computer based will outside of a nintendo switch or other custom hacks) you need want to have a joystick and buttons, not a keyboard yes? This is where buying just the encoder part comes in. Imagine you had that part, but instead of going to a keyboard with the letter 'w' it went to the 'up' on player 1 joystick. End of the day, it's all just buttons, the computer doesn't care if it's a joystick, 30mm button, or a 'w' key on the keyboard, it's all the same.

What you're proposing to do, isn't impossible by any means, but doesn't make a lot of sense. Yes you can take apart controllers and solder to the contacts to make new buttons, but that's a lot of work, time, and soldering, a keyboard encoder can be bought for like $10usd and damn near be plug and play.

I would suggest looking into something like the Zero Delay USB encoder: https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK

You take that piece, it even comes with wires, plug the usb cord into that PCB, plug the wires into the PCB then into each button / joystick you have, plug that into the pi, and you're more or less ready to go. I have over simplified this to some extent, but honestly I think that's going to be a much better route to go than hacking up gamepads.

Here is something really basic to visually see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQh3xrT_47A

I would suggest just spending a night youtubing what you can to get better perspective as to what you're doing.

u/overzeetop · 3 pointsr/EliteDangerous

As others have noted, there are usb interfaces which change simple NO switches into joystick buttons which, I presume, are mappable in E:D. Or you could run an autohotkey script like this one to have it simulate key presses.

u/mshagg · 3 pointsr/simracing

It's pretty simple - for a digital (on/off) all you need is a cheap zero delay usb encoder like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK

Get a microswitch and stick it to the side of the handbrake (even double sided tape works), so the bolt slider presses the switch when you pull the lever back. Wire the microswitch to one of the connections on the USB board and there you have it - a plug and play handbrake.

On the mechanical side of it, you just need to replace the master cylinder with a spring.

Analogue gets a bit trickier, but basically you mount a slide potentiometer to the side of the handbrake:

https://www.amazon.com/BOURNS-PTA4543-2015DPB103-POTENTIOMETER-SLIDE-10KOHM/dp/B005TBCVXY?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4

When you move the lever, it moves the slide in the potentiometer. Wire this to the analogue input of an arduino and use a joystick library to map that input to a joystick axis output:

https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary

If you go down the arduino path, you can also wire the microswitch to one of the digital inputs and use that library to program it as a joystick button, and thus have both digital and analogue.

u/zoneout · 3 pointsr/cade

Super possible. Any controller is just a series of push switches, which are relatively easy to rewire. However, if you're not experienced with soldering and basic wiring, you should really be looking at encoders built for your specific purposes, as they will save you a few hours of button-mapping and soldering.

this is a cheap, high quality option.

u/turkeytown420 · 3 pointsr/simracing

Wouldn't it be easier to use an encoder like this?

​

I used to solder the circuit boards from keyboards to make arcade sticks, but these are way easier.

u/KeyCounter · 2 pointsr/MAME

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased 3 of these. One for each set of controls and then they plug in USB into the raspberry pi. Pretty easy and straightforward!

u/rubee64 · 2 pointsr/cade

I had pretty much the same problem in my build where I ran out of buttons on my IPAC4 and only needed a few more.

I bought the Zero Delay USB Encoder and was able to map my 3 admin buttons with little effort: Exit (Esc), Enter (Enter) and Pause (Numpad+)

u/fuzzytrexy · 2 pointsr/hoggit

This one: Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hk0WCbMR3W68J

u/Thareturnofdamack · 2 pointsr/editors

I started off with an empty project box that I bought off amazon. I drilled out all the holes for the button placements and wired it all myself.

I'm running 2 Reyann Zero Delay USB Encoders as the brains for the buttons.
(I'd like to eventually learn to use an arduino)

The buttons are standard arcade buttons, and the switches are momentary toggle switches.

​

Here is everything I put in the box.
The Box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T98PQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Reyann Zero Delay:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arcade Buttons:
https://www.amazon.com/EG-STARTS-Illuminated-Joystick-Raspberry/dp/B06Y29LBJ4/ref=sr_1_48?keywords=led+arcade+buttons&qid=1572284635&sr=8-48

Smaller Toggles:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGB77DD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Larger toggles:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HS4HBD3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/YamatoHD · 2 pointsr/Tekken

the $5 one, got it from Aliexpress, not Amazon tho. But it's PC/ps3 only

u/asthingsgo · 2 pointsr/cade

sorry, it is sold under a lot of brand names, but they all look the same. it's this one

u/TeaganMars · 2 pointsr/starcitizen

I'll post some photos of the R3v soon. I'm using HOSAS actually, I love my 6 axis control. I'm using a joystick board i got on ebay. I actually can't find it anywhere now. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456972783&sr=8-1&keywords=joystick+board) is one with 2-pin sockets, which would be for unlighted. Its cheap and it gets the job done for under $12. $7 for the project box, and then its whatever you want to pay for buttons.

u/cps425 · 2 pointsr/hoggit

After seeing what /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 built the other day, I wanted to give it a go as well! I took most of the parts he used and linked in his thread, but I went with a few more switches as well as a set of POV buttons that have a mode switch to switch them from POV directions to an X-Y axis. The Green button is for the POV mode, and I also moved the Mode LED to the face of the box so you can tell what mode it is in.

I also added some vinyl carbon fiber wrap to give it a nice finish!

Parts links which are the same as /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 for the most part:

Button box: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSRIO

Control board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK

Push buttons: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T45I7GQ

Toggle switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154JY8OA

Carbon Fiber Vinyl Film: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059XCVVO

The LED is a 5mm Green 18mcd with a holder I had around, but any LED would work, just don't go super bright!

Original inspiration here: https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/acn7il/scrutes_cheap_dcs_button_box_diy/?st=JQIL5FJK&sh=c37d0a0a

u/White_T_Poison · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_np6QfY4YDUL6W

Just the cheapo $10 PC only one.

u/Midgetforsale · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I'm not sure about using a breadboard. Honestly, I use two zero delay usb encoder boards for my controls and it works perfectly. They came in the gamelec kit I bought, but you can buy them separately here - super simple to wire and just plugs into the usb on the pi. One note, if you have two sets of controls, make sure you wire the boards the same way. And by that I mean the same buttons to the same slots on each board. Otherwise, your controls will constantly seem to remap themselves.

u/banerryinko · 1 pointr/popnmusic

Oh that’s cool, I didn’t even know you could control the lights like that. It isn’t really a priority for me, but if it isn’t too difficult to set up that would be fun to have.

I’ll have to see if I can get my hands on some of those tools. Right now I don’t have much of anything.

This is what I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

I don’t think the cables will be able to reach the white buttons, but other than that it seems really easy to set up.

u/kyuuk3tsuki · 1 pointr/fightsticks

MDF boards - $2 dollars per 3x3
Crown 307 lever - $24
buttons are sanwa, the price differs between different variables
PCB was https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

doesn't work on PS4 to my knowledge.



other costs would just be screws and drill equipment.

u/Uryyb · 1 pointr/trucksim

So would some board like this for the switches work? I'm seeing a lot of button box tutorials using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=read04e-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00UUROWWK&linkId=fa13947827870b3ef0361d7afc60fc61

EDIT:
So I posted this board knowing fully that it is more optimized for arcades, however when making this post I discovered a board called the BBI-32 that can go up to 32 buttons, I was originally put off by it as I didn't understand exactly how it works and how to connect things, but after a little bit of research I realized how to connect everything.

BBI-32: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=205

u/Voracious114 · 1 pointr/DanceDanceRevolution

It should definitely be possible, but now's the time to admit that while I have built a box, I still don't really know electrical engineering fundamentals. I followed the advice of the people more experienced than me and used this and this (For PS2 you'd replace that with an old board from a PS2 controller). I can't find a D-SUB connector like mine that will fit your 7 pin pad, however I wonder if you could cut off the end and strip the wires in order to wire them into your board directly and skip the D-SUB altogether. If you tried this and it didn't work the damage would be either irreparable or at best annoying as all hell to fix.

u/Y1ff · 1 pointr/Stepmania

Try using a multimeter on continuity to see what the pinout of that dsub connector is? Probably just some switches. If you're not afraid to open it up you could easily crack that baby open and solder to the switches and plug it into one of these encoders or a similar board, and use it like that. No need to replace the pad part.

u/sirdashadow · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

There is a $10 usb controller roaming around from China. I bought one for a project I have yet to start....I'll look around but you will be hard pressed to find something cheaper than this.

https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK

Edit: Unless you want something like an atmega328

u/wingmasterjr · 1 pointr/StreetFighter

I have actually done this and i will say it is not worth the effort. I modded a mayflash
with sanwa OBSF-30-w buttons and a sanwa JLF stick.

The major mistake I made was going with a shitty chinese board so multiple button presses would not register all the time. Plus I was having problems with input lag as well on that board.

Overall i spent about $100 on everything (including a soldering iron) and its not very useful until I replace the board so it will probably go up to 140-150 overall and at that price I could have just bought a nice hori :/

EDIT: But I have a pretty badass sticker job on it http://i.imgur.com/b3b1KiS.jpg

u/kupaa · 1 pointr/fightsticks

I don't know about those other sticks but if you want to only use PC and PS3, you can get a zero delay usb board for about $10 and wire it to the SE stick.

u/TheAwesomer · 1 pointr/DanceDanceRevolution

I think you are going to have to make your own. Here's some links from a comment I made from a year or two ago:

Hey! Here is a guide that will tell you everything you need to do and it doesn't require any electronics knowledge at all: http://www.stepmania.com/forums/input-adapters-and-controllers/show/5493

I made two of these and they work great. With the pinout, you're pretty much set.

The only thing that I needed to purchase that the guide was not 100% on were ferrite cores - I recommend you getting these. They are little cylindrical clasps you put on to wires that help with interference. All parts linked below:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FBVIJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Gino-Suppressor-Ferrite-Filters-a12071000ux1058/dp/B009ENG6TI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1474499132&sr=8-6&keywords=ferrite+core

edit: here is the pinout for the cobalt flux http://pinouts.ru/Game/cobalt_flux_pinout.shtml

u/andresjsalazar · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Sorry to beat a dead horse, I'm new at this, So, for $11 on Amazon, I can get the Zero Delay USB encoder. $11 https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499112939&sr=8-3&keywords=Zero+Delay+USB+encoder

Then at Paradise Arcade I can get a Ball stick for $11 And 6 Sanwa buttons for $4 each = $35.

So a total of $35+11 = $46 plus whatever housing/case I get. (a plastic one on ebay going for $20, I saw a wooden kit for $50 (way too much))

Is that correct? Anything else I need?

u/SabreAZ · 1 pointr/cade

X-input is definitely the way to go. The question you need to ask, will you be adding any consoles to the build, like a ps4? If so, you'll want a PS4 fighting board+ https://paradisearcadeshop.com/en/home/electrical/pcbs-lighting/pcbs-for-controllers/brook-pcbs/2450_brook-ps3-ps4-fighting-board-plus

​

This will support ps3, ps4 and pc.

​

If you are only going the pc route, you can just use these zero delay usb boards https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK

​

Or you can use the Xin-mo boards

​

http://www.xin-mo.com/dual_player.html

​

​

From personal Experience, you cant beat Brook boards. It's true X input. I think the zero delay boards emulate a keyboard? Im not sure. And Xin-mo, I also brought up as I hear people use those as well. But I never hear bad things about them for mame setups.

​

Im always weary of keyboard emulation, my personal thing. Thats why I go with brook.

u/BlackBabyJeebus · 1 pointr/RetroPie

I've heard good things about the Zero Delay encoder boards. You buy one for each player. Comes with all the wires you need for $10.44, you just supply the buttons and joystick of your choice.


https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I actually used a product called [Zero Delay USB Encoder] (https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK), because after trying to wire directly to the GPIO board on the RasPi turned out being more difficult than I thought.

u/Conterd22 · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Thank you, this Monday I bought this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b5WJAbJ5R08AZ ) (sorry for formatting, I'm on my phone) thank you for the hope tho. Do you have a recommendation to a guide or anything like that?