#16 in Household paint & primers
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Reddit mentions of Rust-Oleum 7701830 Stops Rust Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, Gloss Crystal Clear

Sentiment score: 5
Reddit mentions: 7

We found 7 Reddit mentions of Rust-Oleum 7701830 Stops Rust Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, Gloss Crystal Clear. Here are the top ones.

Rust-Oleum 7701830 Stops Rust Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, Gloss Crystal Clear
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    Features:
  • Weather and corrosion resistant coating protects exterior/interior surfaces like wood, metal, concrete, masonry and more
  • Oil-based formula provides a durable protective coating with excellent rust prevention
  • Dries to touch in 2 to 4 hours and covers up to 15 sq ft
  • Excellent resistance to abrasion, fading and chipping
  • Glossy finish provides a fresh shine to surfaces
Specs:
ColorGloss Crystal Clear
Height20.002999979597 Inches
Length6.6679999931986 Inches
Number of items1
Size12 Fl Oz (Pack of 1)
Weight340 Grams
Width6.6679999931986 Inches

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Found 7 comments on Rust-Oleum 7701830 Stops Rust Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, Gloss Crystal Clear:

u/redwoodser · 3 pointsr/DIY

Should it not dry to your liking, use the glue again and do NOT dilute it with water. Then use something like this over the dried glue, because without it the shade will be a dust magnet. The spray will make it easier to clean.

u/Continuum_Gaming · 3 pointsr/DnD

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

  1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
  1. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
  2. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
  3. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
  • Matte Medium
  • Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  • Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  • Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  1. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
  1. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
u/pyrese · 3 pointsr/DnD

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

  1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
  1. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
  2. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
  3. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
  • Matte Medium
  • Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  • Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  • Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  1. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
  1. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
u/comfy_socks · 2 pointsr/ResinCasting

I would try something like this. You can also get it from Home Improvement stores, or Walmart/target/wherever.

u/CampBenCh · 2 pointsr/geology

I have used some coatings before on everything from banded iron to some leaf fossils. I used this: http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7701830-Stops-12-Ounce-Crystal/dp/B0010NY95S/ which you can get at any local hardware store/WalMart.

Just keep in mind that anything with porosity will allow the coating to seep through the rock, so keep it upright so you don't get any splotches on a good side. Obviously do it outside or with windows open (and on newspaper).

I could take some pictures

u/NewClearWorship · 1 pointr/AutoPaint

I used this Rust-Oleum Clear Coat . I know it's cheap but this paint has been drying a long time.

u/Doomhammer458 · 1 pointr/arduino

they are so cheap i say just go for it. No idea too crazy!

remember the goal is rain resistant not fully waterproof.

here's some ideas

neverwet

or maybe just a clear coat?

some sort of box around it?

if you do paint it just tape over the emitters and receiver

just make sure to use a power supply that will shut down if their is a short or over current and everything should be ok.

edit:

also this.

Doesn't look that waterproof to me but there it is. I assume they mean just the black sensor but if you enclose the rest of it, should work ok