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Reddit mentions of Shark Corp 10-2440 Fine Cut Saw

Sentiment score: 11
Reddit mentions: 14

We found 14 Reddit mentions of Shark Corp 10-2440 Fine Cut Saw. Here are the top ones.

Shark Corp 10-2440 Fine Cut Saw
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This flexible fine-cut saw is great for cabinet work, flush cutting (dowels)It can be used for flexed or flush cutting and features the pull-to-cut method for faster, cleaner, easier, and safer sawingThe pull-saw teeth have three cutting edges that are precision diamond-cut, not merely stamp-cutFor flexed or flush cuttingUses pull-to-cut methodPrecision diamond-cut teethABS plastic handleTwist-lock design allows for fast, easy blade replacement
Specs:
Height1 Inches
Length17.6 Inches
Number of items1
SizePack of 1
Weight0.5 Pounds
Width3.8 Inches

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Found 14 comments on Shark Corp 10-2440 Fine Cut Saw:

u/Hapuman · 3 pointsr/Carpentry

If the idea is to learn to use hand tools, then the basics are chisels, saws, and planes.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=67707&cat=1,41504
Those are a good set of chisels at a reasonable price. I'd recommend the set of 4 (1/4" - 1").

http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1413255552&sr=1-2&keywords=ryoba+saw
Next I'd get a ryoba saw. One side has teeth for ripping, and one for crosscutting, so you get some versatility out of one tool. You could also look into dovetail saws.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=low+angle+block+plane&rh=n%3A228013%2Ck%3Alow+angle+block+plane
Planes come in massive variety. I'd start with a low angle block plane. The more expensive planes come ready to use right out of the box. The cheaper ones can take a bit of work to turn into a good tool. I have one of those cheaper stanleys, and I had to spend about 4 hours sanding the bottom to get it flat.

For a plane specifically for joinery, I'd also look at a rabbet plane.

Hope all that helps. If hand tools aren't really her thing, then you're looking at something more like table saws and routers. Good luck.

u/RamblingMutt · 3 pointsr/DIY

I bought my parents the 12v Hitachi Impact and Drill set when it was on sale, and I have to say for just having and doing a few projects with, they are amazing. I built a shed with them: http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-KC10DFL-12-Volt-3-Tool-Carrying/dp/B001N2NTDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409179683&sr=8-1&keywords=Hitachi+12v

Everything else can be found used for way cheaper. Craigslist, Pawn Shops, even, and I suggest looking, Antique Shops (Most woodworking tools haven't changed in the last century)

Get 3 Hammers. A Framing, a Finnish, and a soft mallet, rubber or plastic.

A combo square

A framing square

Good tape measure

Get a decent handsaw, and a good "japan" saw (http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1409179974&sr=8-9&keywords=hand+saw)


For Furniture, get a tablesaw. You won't regret it. Get one from Craigslist, an older Delta, iron Craftsman or Grizzly.

Get a set of Chisels. Buck Brothers yellow at Home Depot will run you about 30$ for 3 and they are not bad at all.



And finally, get a Porter Cable D Handle router with an assortment of cheap bits.

With that you can do just about anything you could ever want.

u/anotherisanother · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Agreed. Something like this cheap ryoba will work way better than a hacksaw. Also look up "first class cuts" and "knife wall" for tips on cutting accurately.

u/Jessie_James · 2 pointsr/DIY

Ok, I did this before, let me tell you what we learned.

CAUTIONARY STORY:

  • In our case, the mirror was about 8' wide and 4' tall.

  • Surprise! The mirror was NOT attached to the wall with ANYTHING other than the visible fasteners.

  • When we removed the fasteners, we foolishly thought it was going to stay attached to the wall. It did NOT. In fact, after about 20 seconds, it suddenly started to fall forward off of the wall. My mother happened to be standing right there, facing away, and did not see this happening. I was also standing right there and managed to stop the mirror right before it hit her head, and it had fallen almost 75 degrees. I thought it broke my wrists because it hit me so hard. I almost fell down from the force.

  • The mirror did not break (incredibly, considering how much stress I must have put on the middle). I also discovered it weighed a lot more than I thought. I could not hold the weight of the mirror by myself (and I'm not a little guy - 6' 4" and 200 lbs) and was starting to lose it. My father stepped in and helped hold it.

  • It was so heavy and large we could not lift it back up, and could not lower it down with just the two of us. My mother literally ran to the next door neighbors and got two guys to help us.

  • We finally managed to lower it safely. But ... holy shit. That could have killed someone.

    MY SUGGESTIONS

    Hire someone! Seriously! Pay them $100 or so and be done with it. It's not even worth the time and effort you will go through.

    Okay, you want to DIY? Here's what I would do:

  • Buy two pieces of 1/2" plywood, cut 5' x 4' (so they fit in the middle) and use them to help reinforce and safely handle the mirror. Tape or glue them to the mirror. This will minimize the chance of breaking.

  • This saw may allow you to remove it - it's designed to remove countertops

  • Do not let it break. That will be a disaster. It's either going to be a 10 minute job or an 8 hour cleanup. Worse, it may break and slice someone and put you in the hospital. Now you have a hazmat cleanup too!

  • Expect the mirror to suddenly fall off the wall when you are working on it!

  • Expect it to weigh a LOT more than you thought - easily 200 pounds in my opinion.

  • A mirror that large? You will be glad you have 6-8 people helping.

  • Buy 4 of these - $6 each. They are cheap and tremendously helpful.

  • You should have some sort of ladders setup on each side that will safely allow someone to walk the mirror down on each side.

  • Put down a thick, non-slippery, non-TRIP covering/tarp just in case, and get rid of anything nearby.

    Good luck.
u/sidfarkus · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Pull saws are by far the best option. I got a Shark pull saw and have had some good results with it for relatively cheap.

u/Jumpin_Joeronimo · 2 pointsr/woodworking

There are going to be varied answers, and it really depends on what you want to do and how much you want to spend.

I am an amateur but I'll give you my two cents.

Personally, thinking of staying cheap, I would say larger hand saw to cut big pieces, smaller precision hand saw, CLAMPS, mid-sized hand plane, set of 3 chisels, and sander... keeping it super cheap... a sanding block instead of electric orbital sander. Maybe a miter box too.

The specifics and the whys:

$11 - Hand Saw to cut larger pieces you get. No need for a table saw right away.

$20 Precision saw - I like my double-sided japanese Ryoba. It was cheap, cuts really well and has both end grain and cross-grain teeth. I use this for cutting precision joints.

$30 Clamps - Always very useful. I bought THIS SET to start. Move up to Jorgensen or Bessie bar clamps when you have some dough. Bar clamps are superior in clamping pressure, but you can get most stuff done with the quick grips.

Plane - some people would disagree, but you can get a $15 or $20 Stanley number 4 which can act as your jointer to get a board flat and smoother. If you are just getting home depot wood then might not be useful yet.

Chisels - Basic cheap set from HD. Start slow. You can shave a little off to make your joints fit.

Sander - to keep it super cheap. Sandpaper and your hand. Then block sander.. then orbital sander if you want to spend some money.


I had less than this and it got me by on my few first projects. $80 bucks or so without a plane. Very basic. Other than that... you will need at least 2 sawhorses or a table. A table with a good vise or clamping surface makes your life way easier.

*edit for formatting

u/JVonDron · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Ok, $100 isn't going to go very far, especially if you need everything, but here we go.

Whetstone - This is slightly better than the hardware store combination stones, but it's cheap, it's a water stone, and it's got a good grit combo.

Handsaw - Japanese style, cuts on a pull stroke, crosscut and rip teeth. I have this exact saw, still works pretty damn good after a dozen years of occasional use.

Beater chisels - Not the best steel, but a chisel is better than no chisel. You'll want at least 2 sets of chisels anyway - don't beat the hell out of your good set.

Block plane - Don't expect super high quality from Stanley anymore, but we've all got at least one of these little block planes somewhere.

And I'm $6 above the gift card budget. The chisels and plane will need some sharpening before use, but it's enough to get you started. You still need marking/measuring tools, a square, a work surface, clamps, vise, and obviously, some wood to sink your teeth into.

u/72skylark · 2 pointsr/DIY

I bought this box for $17 and I'm pretty happy with it. I was able to make a decent wooden box out of semi-warped walnut- first try with mitred joints. I have a handsaw similar to the one you have as well as a japanese-style shark saw which I used for the walnut pieces as the smaller teeth provide a better edge. The only issue with the shark saw is that it's not very rigid so I had to kind of guide it with my knuckles so that it would stay in the mitre guides.

The advantage of that mitre box is that those plastic pegs work really well for quickly clamping and unclamping your piece, you just have to take care that you don't move the piece when you are rotating the peg to tighten it (easy to do) and make sure it's really tight. The vibration and movement of the saw will make it come loose unless it's really tight.

As far as the circular saw, you are very limited in what kind of mitering you can do just by changing the angle of the blade. It's hard to explain, but if you envision different kinds of cuts you might want to do and how you would do it just by angling the circular saw blade, you can start to see how limited it is.

tl;dr: for $17 I would say it's a good investment even if you only use it a few times a year.

Edit: sorry, I missed the part where you mentioned the workbench. I agree with jdepcad, you don't need it for that project.

u/basilis120 · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

So I see lots of good suggestions so far.
For knives I like my Carving Jack from Flex cut but if I had to do it again I would get the cheaper Whittlin Jack It has a good blade like the carving jack and I just don't use the other tools to justify the extra cost. I also like the Flex cut chisels.
Others have pointed out Mora knives for another good deal

For carving chisels and gouges I like my Ashley Iles not the cheapest but worth it.

for handsaws I like the Japanese style saws

They are hard to beat for the price and quality.


Keeping all of the tools sharp could be entire other thread.
The DMT Dia-sharp plates are great in the course to extra-fine grades. I have the extra-extra fine and would recommend something like a 6000 or 8000 grit Shapton stone instead.


u/joshred · 1 pointr/woodworking

Same here. I essentially built the whole thing using one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1341947923&sr=1-1&keywords=japanese+saw). I thought a jigsaw would work, but I had too much trouble getting 90° edges. The pull saw worked beautifully, although it did get a little laborious. For the half joints I used a chisel, same as your plan.

Are you going to use all 2x4s, or are you going to use hardwood?

u/grays55 · 1 pointr/DIY

I don't like the Stanley because you can't buy replacement blades. The only way to get them is directly from Stanley, last time I checked the replacement blade from them was more than the entire saw. The Stanley is great, I just wish you could by a replacement blade instead of a new saw. If you're buying new and don't already have any sort of flush cut saw I'd probably buy this one Shark makes fantastic fine saws

u/SpagNMeatball · 1 pointr/woodworking

I really like the flat, flexible blade Japanese style saws, they work well for a lot of things, but this type of cut it is great for.

If you don't have one, you can use any regular saw, cut it a little high then chisel or sand it down.

u/mikelostcause · 1 pointr/cocktails

That looks like a pull saw. Something similar to this

u/capilot · 1 pointr/woodworking

Trying to stick with Amazon...

General: do not get no-name generic Chinese tools. These will fail in no time.

Cheap tools are the more expensive. Partly through the damage they cause and the time they waste, and partly because you're going to throw them away and get the good ones anyway eventually.

Get some good screwdrivers. Yellow plastic handles with rubber grips. Stanley used to be good, but apparently not any more. Most screwdriver sets contain more screwdrivers than you need. Klein seems to be the brand to get now, but they're quite expensive. I'm not a fan of multi-bit drivers, but this one looks pretty good and you can't beat the price: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32477-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B0002RI5EY/

This looks like a superb set, but at $60 it really eats into your budget: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-85078-Cushion-Grip-Screwdriver/dp/B000ABADXI/

Saws: Get the Japanese pull saws. I like my Ryoba. There's a plastic-handled version at http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ that's pretty good. The one that abnormal_human linked to is an excellent choice. I would go with that. In fact, it's going on my wish list.

Power tools: You won't regret getting a 14 or 18-volt DeWalt electric drill. There are a couple of 18-volt tools on sale at Amazon right now. Don't argue; just get one. Don't forget drill bits. I like the cobalt, but Titanium is good.

I wouldn't bother with any other power tools; the good ones cost money and the cheap ones will only bring you grief.

Do this: buy a cheap but complete set of HSS bits. As they wear out, replace them one by one with cobalt. I got mine at Costco. I didn't see any on Amazon.

Get a tape measure. I wouldn't spend $25 if money is an object. This is probably the single-most important purchase.

Get as many clamps as you can afford. Not metal C-clamps; those are for metal working. Irwin quick-grip or clone and Jorgensen or Bessey bar clamps are your best value here.

Chisels: I'm not sure you need these for a minimalist wood shop, but if you get them, get a 1/4" and 1/2" chisel. That's all you really need. abnormal_human linked to a pretty good sharpening stone. Japanese chisels are the best, but they'll bust your budget, and until you learn to sharpen them well, they'll be a waste of money. Just get a cheap Stanley or DeWalt set. Expensive chisels will come pre-honed. Cheap ones you should hone for best results. You need to learn to hone them anyway.

Don't spend $50 on tweezers. But get a good pair at your local drug store and get a pair with the longest, sharpest, pointiest working end you can find. And a magnifying glass so you can see the splinters.

Get a 12" combination square. Don't get an expensive one, but don't get a no-name tool either. Some of them have a built-in level which you will never use.

Get a large carpenter's square. They're cheap.

I wouldn't get a card scraper. They're nice, but hard to sharpen and you really need a burnisher ($22) to do it properly.

Consider buying the hardware to build a good workbench. And by that, I mean a good bench vise. A very good one can run you around $200, but this one looks pretty good for $21: http://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-736-Hobby-WoodworkerS/dp/B002I2KFMG/ and $66 will get you this very decent one: http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4026-Cabinet-Makers-Vise/dp/B005W16LVE/

ETA: If you still have budget left for power tools, a random orbital sander is nice and not too expensive. I'm using a borrowed Ryobi and I have had zero issues with it. (I'm not normally a fan of Ryobi, but this one is pretty good. http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Ryobi-ZRRS290-5-Inch-Random/dp/B001HTPSKK/

Finally: a cheap Wixley or iGuaging digital caliper is a good investment. Within a week of buying one, I was wondering how I'd survived so long without it.