#13 in Household paint & primers
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Reddit mentions of Tamiya America, Inc Primer White 180ml, TAM87044

Sentiment score: 6
Reddit mentions: 8

We found 8 Reddit mentions of Tamiya America, Inc Primer White 180ml, TAM87044. Here are the top ones.

Tamiya America, Inc Primer White 180ml, TAM87044
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Tamiya Surface Primer White 180ml … 87044
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height2.08 Inches
Length5.8 Inches
Number of items1
Size6.1 Fl Oz (Pack of 1)
Weight0.02 Pounds
Width2.08 Inches

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Found 8 comments on Tamiya America, Inc Primer White 180ml, TAM87044:

u/Little_gecko · 5 pointsr/InfinityTheGame

Things I've learned starting out:

Wash the miniatures. I found the easiest way was those little ziploc plastic containers. Warm dishsoapy water in them, throw a few minis in, scrub them with an old toothbrush, rinse them off and toss them into a second ziploc container filled with plain water. Then drain and refill that a few times to get all the soap out. Be careful you don't dump them down a drain.

Take them out of the warm fresh water and put em onto a plate with a paper towel or something to dry. I like to organize them into which model belongs to what at this point.

I invested on a sprue cutter and it has been WONDERFUL for me to remove pesky mold lines and the bigger tags sticking out of models. Also an xacto knife helps.

I got some cheap needle files from Harbor Freight and they've helped get the flash lines flush without any weirdness.

After your stuffs all pretty and moldline free I tend to toss it into a sonic cleaner because I work at a lab. It might be placebo but the industrial strength badass one at work seems to get clean and I mean... why not? But you can do the water and rinse again. Or even just do it once, after the mold line removal. (Side note: sonic cleaners are PRETTY RADICAL for removing paint from miniatures with some simple green. I love it. Saves me a lot of scrubbing.)

Anyway once its dry I personally use this glue and some stuff called green stuff to fill in gaps. Heres a tut showing the basic idea

Once they're assembled I use some good ol elmer's white glue on the bases and dip em in sand and shake them off. Tutorial that shows that

Then prime your stuff. Tons of tutorials about it and tons of everyone saying which is their favorite primer, spray or brush on, different types of primer, different brands. Some stand by Army Painter or Citadel. I've had good results with Rustoleum Ultra Cover 2x White primer. I've recently picked up some TAMIYA WHITE which I hear good things about. Trying them on some Morats tomorrow.

Lots of other good info has been posted too! I also just started probably, shit, 6 months ago, so this is stuff I've had to pick up and learn as I go.

u/KeiranSolaris · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

Tamiya fine surface primer is a really thin primer that I'm using for my resin minis, does a good job of not filling in all the fine details.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WS01E/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_Ef6TDbK9HYY3F

u/blueunitzero · 2 pointsr/minipainting

so far i brush, i tend to use different varnish depending on where im using it, gloss on lenses semi gloss on armor flat on dirt ect. I do hope to get an airbrugh before christmas comes though, have a drop pod i need to paint and im just not happy with how brushing the base color is looking, no matter how thin or how many coats i cant get a nice even tone to work from

try this for primer, ive absolutely love using it, goes on super thing but nice and solid, doesnt fill in details

u/windupmonkeys · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Well, look. There's a simple and complex answer to your question:

The simple answer is: for a white stormtrooper, you want white primer. This is what is highly regarded: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-USA-TAM87044-Surface-Primer/dp/B0000WS01E

After that, you'd have him paint it white (using the vallejo paint), and black, or whatever color the joints are. You can also use gray as the primer, Tamiya makes it in that color, but for obvious reasons, it makes painting the white final layer harder.

Then I'd gloss coat it, in this case, using a wide brush and this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1525394737&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+multi+surface+floor+care

I recommend this stuff because it's one of the few gloss coatings that can be brush painted with relative ease. If there are decals, I'd apply them after the gloss coat dries.

Then, I'd apply the wash. There are several varieties, including prepacked versions:

Tamiya Panel Liner (But you'd need some kind of enamel or whatever thinner they recommend to remove the excess)

Or, more typical for many is an enamel wash (I think Mig AMMO makes those), or oil paint with turpenoid.

If you care about non-toxic (relatively speaking), watercolors will work in a pinch, but like I said, put a drop of alcohol or soap to break surface tension. It's not as good as oil paints for most people.

And then you can spray it with a final coat of matte varnish. I have an airbrush, so I'm partial to this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Bottle-Testors-Testor-Corp/dp/B004I0EVK8

Again, it's one of the flat coatings that can be brush painted rather than sprayed, if you know what you're doing.

The way to think about primer and matte/gloss coating is this :

  1. Primer: it's a layer of paint meant to provide an even substrate for the rest of the colors and everything else on top of it. (Tamiya spray primer is this)

  2. Gloss coating: applied either because you want a shiny final object, or after the final colors have been applied, but prior to making it look old/applying washes. (Pledge Multi-surface Floor Care that I linked above is this.)

  3. Matte coating: applied as the final coat because in real life, most objects aren't shiny. (Model Master Acrylic Flat is this)

    All three come in spray and non-spray varieties. Future however is a household product with no spray version.
u/BrewersFTW · 1 pointr/Gloomhaven

Since no one has actually answered your question, I used grey Rust-Oleum primer for my Gloomhaven minis (Amazon link).

Now, I'm not 100% sure if this is the exact same one that I use, but it looks awfully similar. All I know is that it goes on smooth, doesn't obscure tiny details (as long as you don't heavily spray a single area), and dries nicely. I also have a white can of Rust-Oleum primer, but I'm not too impressed with that one. I'm thinking about giving the white Tamiya primer a try. Maybe that'll be better.

I tape the bottom of my figures to a paint stirring stick and then spray the primer on to them in quick, short bursts, spraying about 6 inches away from them and moving in a lateral sweep. Turn and rotate the stirring stick so that you hit all angles on the mini. Once finished, set aside in a dry room for at least 24 hours before you begin painting.

u/Xevran01 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So, I'm planning to fully paint my next kit (HG Barbatos) and I'm wondering what paint product to use. Is this Tamiya TS-27 Matte White the typical white gundam color, like on the barbatos? Does it matter if it's matte or not, or is there a regular white color for the spray paint?

Also, I plan to use this white primer. Is this okay? It says "fine", but the gray tamiya primer doesn't say that so is this different in an important way? I hand paint in acrylics if that information is important.

Also, bonus question, should you use white or gray primer before hand painting/spraying on red? I assume white?

Thank you for the help friends, sorry for yet another barrage of questions, but it is much appreciated!!!

u/Aperture_Kubi · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So I'm looking into my first project that's more than a straight build. Specifically I'm thinking of a recolor of a Kyrios from orange to green (college/workplace colors, and fortunately white is our secondary).

The right order is Primer, paint, panel line, topcoat right? And then just topcoat for the pieces I don't recolor?

Also on topcoating, do you spray that on each external piece individually, or on the whole unit assembled?

Lastly, if I get into weathering effects, that's after painting and before topcoat right?

My batch of cheap Leos finally came in, so I have a few grunt units to mess with.

u/Turtleshell64 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So for a frame like the PG strike freedom, if I wanted to paint the inner frame so that it isn't crap gold, I'd prime that and then spray it with gold paint? Can I do it with inner frame assembled or would that run the risk of the joints getting too stiff?

And does it matter what color the primer color is, be it gray or white? I assume the tamiya primer is ideal (as linked below):

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Surface-Primer-White-180ml/dp/B0000WS01E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487211789&sr=8-4&keywords=tamiya+primer

And a side question, someone told me acrylic paint is ideal for beginners as its less of a pain to work with. However I assume this is regarding brush painting. I notice stuff like the tamiya gold spray is lacquer. Does it matter? And is it bad if you primer, lacquer gold, and then paint some sort of acrylic on top of the gold?

Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for taking the time to answer!