Reddit mentions of Tamiya Gray Fine Surface Primer L, 180ml Spray Can

Yes, you should. It looks like bare plastic without them.

For future builds, use a hobby knife (x-acto is fine, I assume you're probably American given the reference to comic-con) to scrape off the stubs to the part where they came off the parts tree. I can see several areas where the fit of the kit could've been improved by cleaning those parts up so they sit flush as they are supposed to.

For paint, I'd probably avoid Humbrol Acrylics (if you're in the US, they're not particularly easy to get) and they're' not great as paint. Tamiya is okay, but it's not great for brushpainting which you seem to want to do. If you have to, you can use this tutorial to see how to do it more effectively: https://zerobxu.wordpress.com/2008/03/10/hand-painting-with-tamiya-acrylics/

If you are just getting started, you might not want to buy an airbrush. In that case, there are two alternatives I can recommend:

1. Spray cans: http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/american-fs-enamel (Model Master Spray Enamels). What you'd be doing is buying the gray or whatever base color of the Snowspeeder, then spraying that (do this outdoors, this stuff is noxious). Similarly, Tamiya makes good spray paint in a can. Long term, this is not an ideal solution. They cost a lot per can and that money is better spent saving up towards an airbrush if you continue building models Detail painting can be brush painted by Tamiya, Model Master, Vallejo, AK, or other branded paints (these are all acrylics.)
   
   
2. Brush painting only:
   If you are only brush painting, see this guide: http://www.finescale.com/how-to/articles/2007/02/basics-of-brush-painting
   
   As for paint, Tamiya is...."okay." It's not great paint to brush and most people don't do very well with it. It's much more suited for airbrushing, but you can do it via the tutorial I referenced above.
   
   An alternative would be to brush paint with Model Master Acrylics, which have very good self leveling properties that make brush strokes a bit less likely (also, for wide areas, use a wide brush, like around 1/4inch or so; if you want brushes, go to an art store like Dick Blick or whatever, and you can find some good ones there for a fairly low price. Look for Golden Talkon (orange/gold bristles) brushes, as they work quite well and are also cheap. They're a synthetic material. But frankly, watercolor and acrylic paint brushes will probably work fine.
   
   If you use Model Master acrylic, be aware, you will need to purchase a can of sprayable primer, because otherwise, that paint will lift off the model as soon as you try to use masking tape to paint straight lines (like those red/gray panels on the snowspeeder.) I recommend a primer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Primer-180ml-Spray-Tamiya/dp/B000BMXRUM. Primer helps give your final paint colors more grip on the final surface.
   
   Then, use Model Master Acrylic, which is brushable, can be thinned with water, and has water cleanup. Enamels require special thinners/mineral spirit and smell bad, but some people like them.
   
   Once you're done painting, you can use stickers, or use the waterslide decals that are included. If you use the waterslide decals, apply/spray/brush a coat of gloss over it.
   
   Here's an example of something I brush painted (on a lark, but again, USE PRIMER) with model master acrylic about two years ago to show what results you can get.
   
   A further description of the steps I went through to get that result with Model Master Acrylic is described in the two threads:
   https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2esizj/fa18e_1144_painted_entirely_with_hairy_sticks/
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2yzzms/brush_painted_1144_f18e_old_project_not_complete/
   
   
   
3. Re: tomboy/judgment: You shouldn't have to worry about such things and he's probably just as happy to sell you kits anyway. It's a hobby after all (and let's face it, a damn nerdy one).
   
   Additionally, please read the FAQ along the sidebar regarding basic tools, airbrush reviews, and other tips and tricks. Also, lots of tutorials on how to build models can be found on youtube. In your case, I'd be there's probably at least one or two if you just google "bandai 1/48 snowspeeder step by step" or something similar and it'll teach you more than you ever wanted to necessarily know about how to get better at this.
   
   Congrats on your first build, and best of luck. And yes, pick up more models.

Drop some PVA on a base, spread it around with a bush you don't care much about (stiff bristle works best).

I set the mini down inside a sandwich tupperware, pull some "washed dirt" or "driveway magic" as some call it, and cover the base in the stuff entirely, the more the merrier. Wiggle it a bit to fill in gaps, and leave to dry overnight.

After that night, I usually take a stiff bristle brush (or toothbrush, which I prefer), and scrape out any loose rocks and dust from the bases.

After the removal of stuff-that-didn't-stick-well, you're good to prime your miniatures as usual! GW stuff works awesome, but I like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMXRUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gray is easy to work UP from into brights, and DOWN from into darks. If you want to take it a step further and "pre-highlight" your models, prime white on top, grey in mid, and a splash of black around the feet (or any combination, if your color scheme is too light for black around feed, two-tone works well).

TLDR: Answer to your question, Glue -> Sand/Dirty -> Brushie Brushie -> Prime.

Sorry had the wrong wording its Tamiya Fine Primer

I guess i was thinking about (and still screwed up) the name of their glue i use

For acrylic you can use water as a thinner, or windex if you really want (some people use it to thin paint for airbrushing). For enamel you need turpenoid or paint thinner. Odorless turpenoid from an art store is good because it's not stinky, but you could use turpentine or whatever.

I'm not sure basic enamel will work as a primer-- is it a fairly matte finish? I like Tamiya's spraycan primer-- it's very fine-grained matte paint and sticks to all kinds of stuff.

Have you bought any paint yet at all? If not, get a spraycan of Tamiya primer, and use all acrylic for everything else. It's easy to clean up and won't give you headaches if you don't have good ventilation, and you'll know nothing's going to eat anything else and you can mix everything with everything else... Thin with water, clean your brushes and stuff with water, keep it simple.

This is the primer:

http://www.amazon.com/Gray-Surface-Primer-180ml-Spray/dp/B000BMXRUM

One can will last for 4 or 5 1/35 tanks.

Tamyia makes a good primer in rattlecan and handbrush; while you're there, pick up some ultra thin cement - it's awesome for seam fusing.

Brush on or spray?

Always use spray.
My preference is Tamiya grey fine primer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BMXRUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_16BBDb3Z3AVA1

I've never had an issue with it. One thin coat will do it. You're just putting in on there to help the paint have something to adhere to smoothly. That's all unless you really care about what color your base cost goes over.
That's why I go with grey personally.

Also dont spray when it's raining or high humidity. It screws with the paint.

Spray on primer is pretty ideal, though with those humidity levels idk how the final outcome will be affected. My guess is it'll be fine, just longer drying times.

Of all the primers I've tried, this has been the best.

I'm using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer for Plastic and Metal.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMXRUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What can I use to remove tamiya spray primer ?

I'm new to using rattle cans and the pieces I did last night have some pooling.

It would depend on how large an area of painting you’re doing. If you’re doing let’s say a model car body, you’d have to it in coats. So you’ll have to research how to paint brush coats with Tamiya paints since I’m sure you’ll have to thin the paint to some degree. And for priming, Tamiya sells them in spray cans. . As well as other other colors .

You don’t have to buy the sprays on amazon of course. Check with your local hobby stores and see if they’ve got them. I know my local Hobby Lobby carries the primer cans.

Hope this helps, bud. Good luck.

My favorite prime is expensive but it is literally the best I've ever used, by miles.

Tamiya gray primer. They make a white and black I think. They are far and away better than anything you can buy at lowes. Comes at a premium price point though. You can pick up a can for like 6 bucks at a hobby lobby with their 40% coupon though.

Like everyone here said, the easy and save way would to be to get some vinyl decals. However, if you are dead set on painting, then it's not too hard to do. you're going to have to disassemble the controller. From there sand the controller, this gives the primer something to bite on to. once everything is nice and sanded take your primer (I recommend this.) and spray in light, even coats and let cure for the time on the can, and maybe a few hours longer. Once you're happy with the primer, take your spraypaint and apply in light, thin coats. Remember to let the paint dry fully between coats.
Once you are happy with the color and it has dried for the recommended time on the can, go ahead and choose your choice of clear coat (gloss, semi-gloss, or matte. also krylon works best for this) and apply in thin layers like you did the primer and paint. after it has sat for the directions on the can. you can now put the controller back together and test everything out. Assuming that you didnt mess up putting the controller back together, you now have a painted controller.