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Reddit mentions of TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb.) | 24335

Sentiment score: 19
Reddit mentions: 37

We found 37 Reddit mentions of TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb.) | 24335. Here are the top ones.

TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb.) | 24335 #2
    Features:
  • Includes storage case and product manual with torque conversion chart
  • Wrench emits a click that can be heard and felt when the preset value is reached
  • High-contrast dual-range scale is easy to read, even in low light
  • Reversible ratchet head drives in both directions and measures torque in clockwise direction
  • Durable all-steel construction has no plastic parts to break or wear out
Specs:
Color0
Height1.4 inches
Length18.5 inches
Number of items1
Size1/2 Inch Drive (10-150 ft.-lb.)
Weight2.94 pounds
Width1.9 inches
#1 of 730

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Found 37 comments on TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb.) | 24335:

u/bcphotog · 8 pointsr/ar15

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:

 

  • Vise
  • AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  • Screwdrivers
  • Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  • AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  • Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  • Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  • Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  • Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  • Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  • Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  • Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.

     

    That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:

  • AR tool
  • Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  • Roll Pin Punches
  • Vise

    If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.

     

    ^Edit: ^Formatting.
u/AffableJoker · 7 pointsr/GoRVing

I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).

Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.

The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.

u/Crabbity · 6 pointsr/Cartalk

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/

I like this one, as you end up with more stuff in the 10-150lb range than you do the 25-225 lb range.

u/xc0z · 6 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.

Tools needed:

  1. Bearing race set tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
  2. Clamshell Bearing puller: http://www.amazon.com/G2-Axle-Gear-80-BRGPLLR-Clamshell/dp/B004PHV7DI
  3. Micrometer: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Caliper-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B006Y1OWKS
  4. Backlash Indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL96414-0-001-Increment-Indicator/dp/B006K8WANQ
  5. Torque Wrench: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU
  6. 12 ton shop press: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
  7. Cold Chisel: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6738-Chisel-Punch-12-Piece/dp/B000NPR3IO
  8. Magnet on a stick
  9. Needle nose pliers, or whatever pliers will fit
  10. 3-5lb Maul

    Parts needed:
  11. The gears. duh
  12. Master rebuild kit with TIMKEN bearings.
  13. Gear oil.
  14. Marking compound, if the rebuild kit doesn't come with it... If it doesn't, you bought a cheap kit. shame. SHAME.^SHAME.^SHAME.

    On a 8.25...
  15. Pull diff cover.
  16. Pull pinion yoke nut.
  17. Remove center pin bolt, and pull center pin from carrier.
  18. Push Axle shafts in to the center housing.
  19. Look for the little C clip inside the carrier. Use you stick magnet to pull them out. Repeat for the other axle.
  20. Pull axle shafts out of both sides.
  21. Use your cold chisel to put a mark on the left bearing cap ridge. make one mark. make one mark on the left side housing as well. Make two marks on the right side bearing cap. Make two marks on the right side housing as well. PAY ATTENTION WHEN REASSEMBLING. Bearing caps are side specific, and switching them can result in early bearing failure. Set bearing caps and bearing cap bolts in a clean area.
  22. Pull out main carrier.
  23. Put carrier in a vise, and with your torque wrench, remove the bolts holding the ring gear in place. tap the ring gear evenly around the sides to remove.
  24. Use the Clamshell bearing puller to pull the bearings off the carrier.
  25. Use the shop press to install the new bearings on the carrier.
  26. Put the new ring gear on the carrier. Push it on lightly with your hands, install 2-4 bolts to hold it in place. Count the turns as the bolts catch. install the rest of the bolts with the same amount of turns. Tighten all bolts in a star pattern in even increments to 40 ft/lbs. then to 60 ft/lbs. then finally 80 ft/lbs.
  27. Pull the pinion yoke if you haven't already. pull the pinion. if it doesn't come out, hit it with a hammer. use some wood if you plan on saving the gear set for whatever reason.
  28. Use cold punch to remove bearing races from the rear of the housing. don't fuck up the housing mating surface, or it'll leak no matter how many times you replace the pinion seal.
  29. Install the new bearing races with the bearing race set tool and your maul.
  30. Install the bearing on the pinion.
  31. Measure the old shims with your micrometer. Install the same thickness shims in the pinion to start.
  32. Place the pinion in the housing. New bearing should be in place on the pinion and in the housing at this point. IF not, you need to learn to read.
  33. Measure the thickness of the carrier bearings. Place new bearings of the same thickness to start.
  34. Place carrier, bearing outer races and shims in all at once.
  35. Put old crush sleeve and old bearing on the new pinion. A die grinder to grind out some of the inner old bearing race makes a good setup bearing. tighten the pinion nut.
  36. Place marking compound on 5 ring gear teeth, both sides.
  37. Spin the carrier to determine pattern. consult pattern guide included with your kit. you kit didn't come with a guide? shoulda bought Yukon gears.
  38. If you pattern isn't conforming to the guide, add or remove shims from the pinion or carrier.
  39. Once you think you have a good pattern, setup the dial indicator and measure backlash. Ideal is .8-.12 thousandths. if you're in the .12 or above, or .8 or below, add or remove shims to move the pinion in or out, or the carrier left or right. this can require some time dedication.
  40. Once your happy with your gears, pull the carrier back out. Install new inner seals if you have them.
  41. Remove the old crush sleeve and place a new one. Torque to the recommended spec.
  42. Measure drag on the pinion with the torque wrench. should be ~8-10ft/lbs if i recall.
  43. Place carrier back in the housing.
  44. Replace carrier bearing caps and torque.
  45. Re-torque pinion nut.
  46. Replace axle shafts.
  47. Replace c-clips.
  48. Replace center pin and bolt.
  49. Replace cover. seal well. sitting overnight is ideal.
  50. Fill with 80w-90 gear oil.

    Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.

    I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.
u/Trollygag · 6 pointsr/ar15

It isn't necessary, but torque wrenches are very useful and versatile tools for cars, motorcycles, lawnmowers, and guns.

Basically, if you like toys, get a torque wrench. They don't have to be expensive.

u/darealmvp1 · 6 pointsr/Tools

I was just looking at a 3piece craftsman prybar set at the store which was on sale for $30some odd dollars. It was down from $40something odd dollars.

Started looking online and ran into this 3 piece pry bar. Look familiar?

Same thing is going on with this tekton torque wrench i found its twin here

u/croninsiglos · 4 pointsr/teslamotors

Then why not do that?

Here you go $38

u/tvtb · 4 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I just got a relatively nice 1/2" Tekton torque wrench for $37. They have a longer one that goes up to 250 ft-lb for $54. I'm not saying it's the best, but it's solidly middle-of-the-road and way better than HF.

Torque wrenches are precision equipment and should be treated as such. Don't apply more than 150 ft-lb in the reverse direction (i.e. dont use it as a breaker bar). For the models that have to be stored with the torque set at the lowest setting... make sure you do that.

u/Combat_crocs · 4 pointsr/ar15

If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.

I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.

Some other things you'll want to have handy:

Vice Block for Lower

Vice Block for Upper

Roll pin starter kit

Rubber Mallet

Torque Wrench

These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.

Best of luck!

EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!

u/obviouslynuttrolling · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Torque wrench

Socket set

Hex sockets

1/2 inch Ratchet

1/4 inch Ratchet

Combo wrench set

Calipers

Chain tool

Pretty close to everything you'll ever need to work on a bike, besides specialty tools. Buy or borrow other stuff when the issue comes up! You can do it!!

Edit: Added calipers.

u/lostboyz · 3 pointsr/cars

It's good to have for a lot of jobs. I have this one, works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/kestrelbike · 3 pointsr/NFA

In my experience, 85% of "gunsmiths" are FUDDs. I've had some who refused to remove the pin & weld on a *stripped* barrel (it was not even connected to an upper, even though that wouldn't have made a difference because the lower is serialized/the firearm) because it would have violated the NFA. And he was extremely popular in the area and a complete koala-dick prick.

Meanwhile, I know a guy who supposedly took an AK to have the barrel chopped when it was still connected to the serialized receiver... and technically that'd make the gunsmith the maker and not the dude who had done the Form 1.

I know it's not what you're looking to do, but I strongly suggest you treat yourself to some self-education and invest in a torque wrench ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and also a do-all tapco wrench (yes Tapco, but the wrench is GTG: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-m16-armorer-s-tool-prod54530.aspx Sadly, amazon doesn't have it atm). With these two things, you will be able to master your upper receiver/barrel group life.

Then, YouTube has all the videos you need on replacing the barrel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NjNEQr4lCM&list=PLmovdvtE7X-iTinH_f2fTsVW6CWYMPcln&index=4&t=0s It's very much not that difficult.

It's worth it, I promise. You'll pay that much anyways just for one barrel change. And you can do it yourself, for the first time, in just 2 hours to account for the hemming/hawwing. Afterwards, with experience, it takes ~20min (removing the handguard, replacing, etc.).

u/calgun03 · 3 pointsr/ar15

It's not difficult, you just need the tools to pull your current handguard off and remove the barrel nut (because most handguards comes with their own proprietary barrel nut). Then you'll thread on your new barrel nut, tighten it down to roughly 30ftlbs, install the new handguard, and you're done.

You'll probably need an AR15 armorers wrench, anti-seize/grease of some sort (I like Loctite Anti-Seize, but some people have heartburns over what to use. Something is better than nothing), and a torque wrench. And probably also another inch-lb torque wrench.

As for the quality of the handguard, I've never used that one, so I can't speak for it.

u/TwoWheeledTraveler · 2 pointsr/Ducati

So the good news is that the engine in your bike (the aircooled two valve, or "desmodue") is about the simplest and easiest to maintain of all the modern Ducati engines. I have the same one in my Scrambler and it's really quite simple. You also don't have a ton of fairings or whatever covering stuff up.

So, with a fairly basic set of tools you can certainly learn to do your routine maintenance yourself. For basic tools, you'll want a basic "mechanic's" tool set that includes Metric sizing, and both sockets and "allen wrenches." You can piece this together or buy something like this that'll have just about everything you need. You'll also need some torque wrenches. I have this one for higher torque stuff and this one for lower. They're not the super awesomest in the world but they're just fine.

Let's look at a couple of simple jobs:

Chain Maintenance

This is one you'll want to be doing every 500 - 600 miles or so. You can do this without a rear stand, but it is MUCH easier with one.

Required tools:

A chain brush (I use this one from Tirox)

Chain Cleaner (I use Motul Chain Clean)

Chain lube (I use Motul lube )

Some nitrile gloves because yuck, and some cardboard to prop up between the chain and the wheel / tire. You DO NOT want chain lube on your tire.

Optional is a rear stand. Everyone will yell Pitbull, which are great but expensive. I didn't want to go ultra cheapo, so I ended up with a set of Pro II stands from GPI Industries. They were like $100 on sale.

Basically, you put the bike up on the rear stand, stick some cardboard between the chain and the wheel, hose it down with cleaner, brush it off, blot it off, and hose it down with lube. When I'm done I typically put the bike back on the sidestand and check for proper chain slack as well, just because.

Oil Changes

These are "officially" a 7500 mile deal on our bikes, but I'm conservative and do it at about half that.

Required tools:

An oil filter wrench. You'll need a 76mm octagonal one. I use this one and it's fine.

You'll also need oil, a filter, and a few O-rings and gaskets. The easiest way to get all this stuff is to go to Ducati Omaha (who are sponsors here and will give you 5% off and free shipping with the code in the sticky thread) and order an oil change kit for your bike. They'll even include the Ducati filter wrench for like $10.

You'll also need an oil drain pan and a way to transport the old oil to an auto parts store or other place that will properly dispose of it. PLEASE do not do something stupid like pouring it in the gutter or putting it in your trash.

This is another job that's made incredibly easier by putting the bike up on the rear stand.

There's a good walkthrough of how to do it here. This is on a Scrambler, but again it's the same engine. Note that this walkthrough includes checking the mesh filter which isn't strictly required every time. If you don't do that part all the things about taking the exhaust off aren't applicable. If you're not doing that part all you need to do is drain the oil, swap the filter, and re fill.

​

There are other jobs you can easily learn to do yourself, like brake pads and fluid, but if you start by learning to do chain maintenance and oil changes you'll have most of the stuff you need. The other thing I would recommend is to get yourself a nice set of bike washing stuff, and spend time every few weeks cleaning your machine. It's a good way to get familiar with what's where and what it should all look like "normally."

​

u/CantHearYou · 2 pointsr/gundeals

I used a torque wrench for the barrel nut on my AR15.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451251714&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=torque+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=31migy44iyL&ref=plSrch

That is a torque wrench and what I think of when I hear that term, which is why I was confused about this product being called a torque wrench.

u/BrentRS1985 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalEngineering

I bought this guy off Amazon and I've been very pleased with it.

u/Eckhart · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Totally man. I don't mind paying for good tools, but after a certain point you just get diminishing returns. The truck guys might make sense for someone who makes a living from their tools and, for some reason, can't drive to a store or wait 2 days for a replacement in the mail, but for anything else there's good tools to be found for reasonable cost.

For example, I love my Tekton 1/2" torque wrench. Thing is sturdy as hell, comes in a nice case, will do anything from 10ftlbs to 150ftlbs, and is only $40. It was the first tool I got from them, and I've been so impressed that nearly all of the hand tools I've purchased sense have been Tekton, if they make the tool in question.

I do occasionally end up at HF if I really need the thing same-day, or don't expect to use it more than a few times a year, but for the basics it's hard to beat Tekton in my experience. Hell, just the other day, I needed a T8 Securty Torx bit, so I ordered this thing and it's way better made than I expected it to be.

Reading back over this, I sound like a corporate shill, but I've found it hard to beat Tekton's intersection of price, quality, and Prime shipping.

u/Hsoltow · 2 pointsr/ar15

If you want to build an AR on your own (grown man legos ftw) I suggest you build one. You can build a quality AR on the cheap. There is a barrier to entry from the tools you will need but from there on out you can use those tools for multiple builds. At a minimum you will need:

u/notkeegz · 2 pointsr/cars

Something like this is all you'll need. I've used my tekton a bunch and it stays accurate. If you have amazon prime it's like $25

u/heyuguuuys · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb./13.6-203.5 Nm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pz2izbFQR4974

u/KingOG · 2 pointsr/AR10

I got a tekton one for about $40 on Amazon, it doesn't have to be high dollar as the torque range is huge. I built my dad's without one and just went to the next gas tube spot past "tight" never had any issues and that thing shoots. That method wouldn't work so well for the aero Handguards that have 4 spots for the gas tube and a set of shims though so I got one for a friend's build.

TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb./13.6-203.5 Nm)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LNTWAbP1FXQPT

u/notheretomakefrainds · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I can't help you on the chain rivet tool

In terms of a ratchet kit - since the rear axle nut needs to be torqued down pretty heavy, you'll want a decent torque wrench that can comfortably hit the spec on the rear axle nut. Do you know lb ft your rear axle nut needs to be torqued to? I'd suggest getting a torque wrench that does 15-150 ft lbs something like this , as most axle nuts need somewhere in the 75-110 ft lbs. Then, at the least you need a socket that 1) matches the drive size on your torque wrench (likely .5 inch) and 2) the axle nut size (can vary a lot. mines 27mm, some are 24mm, recommend checking service manual and/or google). You'd be even better off for doing other work to just get an impact socket set, should be able to find something decent for ~$20 on harbor freight, and then a cheap ratchet (for when you just need to loosen things up or other various tinkering activities)

I like the Tekton torque wrenches, have 2 sizes and never had an issue. In terms of sockets, anything not made out of chinesium is fine (Harbor freight set has been good for me)

u/applesauce516 · 1 pointr/FZ07

I just go to Autozone and use "rent a tool" to borrow their breaker bars, torque wrench. They charge your credit card and give you 90 days to return it in same working condition. Having said that I know youtube channel "Chris Fix" recommended one of amazon's best selling torque wrenches for weekend garage diy'ers... here's the link
https://amzn.com/B00C5ZL0RU

u/xcdc802 · 1 pointr/Harley

no, no torque wrench in the kit, but I probably wouldn't want a "kit" torque wrench. This kit just gives you basically every and any size socket you will ever need, plus a lot of wrenches, a screw driver with changeable bits, and a few other things. I got this one on Amazon, I've cranked on it up to 140 lbs on my Toro zero degree mower and it's great.

u/Cigar_smoke · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

good call given the spec for my rims is 120 Nm +/- 10. Given that i think I may order the 1/2 one and get a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer and deal with the bulk when I'm under the car doing an oil change. By that time i may invest in a 3/8 or 1/4. Had to add in I'm so excited to order my Rhino Ramps instead of jacking up my car I'm like a kid in a candy store lol

u/AndyH13 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Now if you want to get it fixed professionally, by all means do so. But I wouldn't let lack of a torque wrench hold you back. This 1/2" drive one is only $40. I'm sure it's not the world's greatest torque wrench, but Tekton has a decent reputation. Harbor freight sells a 1/4" drive for $10 (after coupon, ~$20 otherwise).

You can rent a lot of specialty tools for bearings, etc from part stores like Autozone or Orielly's. I haven't seen anything saying they rent torque wrenches, but I'd give them a call at least.

u/TheresShitInMyBucket · 1 pointr/cars

Just get a torque wrench and whatever socket fits your lug nuts. Look up what your car is supposed to have and just leave the wrench set to that.

Check it up every few months, only takes like 10 seconds to do and doesn't need any special skill to accomplish. If you can use a screwdriver you can use a torque wrench, just makes a loud click when it hits the setting. Sure beats going to a tire place every time you need to do that.

u/hiacbanks · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

good idea for "to change flat tire". in the shop today, I want to use my hand tool to loose that lug nuts to make sure it's smooth, that piss off the boss, he asked me to get lost. I should come up with a reasoning of "just in case I need to change flat tire".

>remove them often enough
do you remove them every 3 months or 6 months? I usually didn't touch it if there is need to, such as to change a flat tire.

> Torque it down, dry
you dry the lug nuts before put it on? May I know what's the purpose?

Thank you for your recommendation of the 3 tools, do you think these 3 looks Ok:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2Lfk_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=CWTA8X0BR49HVQ186Y8Y&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=365b646d-0ab5-53c3-9063-fe500e13a356&pf_rd_i=559968

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-in-drive-quick-release-teardrop-ratchet/p-00944809000P

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-15356-2-Inch-24-Inch-Breaker/dp/B00MWVAUT6


Thank you!

u/hedgecore77 · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Just get a torque wrench. Most people dont bother and just use a normal wrench to reef on their lugs and that's bad for them. Your lugs should be around 80 ft lbs, just google 'em.

u/austinanimal · 1 pointr/austinguns

I bought this torque wrench for $40. It's been working fine so far. $22 on this vice. I picked up a BEV Block at GT's I think.

It's not amazing or anything, but I've been able to do everything I've needed to up to this point.

u/tommyk3 · 1 pointr/guns

You are getting horrible advice and this thread is complete shit. Here is exactly what you need:

Vice.
Upper Vice Block.
Torque Wrench 1/2”.
Anti-Seize Grease.
Blue Loctite.
Punch Set.
Torx & Allen Set.


The reason people are recommending an armorers wrench is for the muzzle break install. Every armorers wrench has a slot designed for installing one. This isn’t mandatory because you can use a regular wrench but you might as well get one because you will need one to build a lower when installing the castle nut.

u/HarvardCock · 1 pointr/subaru

alot of this is dependent on your model, but to give you a rough idea...

the most important tool you can own is a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your car, it can make fixing any part of the car 10x easier, and gives you torque specs for almost everything so you dont wreck your car. Subaru uses aluminum engine blocks, and over torquing will strip the threads from the block, or if you're really unlucky you can crack the block or head leaving you with a 3,300lb paperweight.

99% of fasteners are Metric, common sizes are 8, 10, 12, 14, and 17mm. there are also some 19, 21, and 23mm but they're less common. If you do any engine work you'll want a 14mm 12-point to remove the head bolts. If you need to split your short block, those are 12mm 12-point i think...

changing the engine oil will require a normal 17mm socket, but if you feel like changing manual transmission or rear diff oil you'll need a Torx T70 bit. (im doing mine this weekend) thats about $10 on amazon

If you plan on doing any engine/timing belt work, consider getting a set of cam/crank pulley tools. they're specific to Subaru and its nearly impossible to get the timing belt pulley's and harmonic balancer torqued correctly without them. There are a few different tools for different pulleys, each is about $50. you can find them here and on amazon.

I'm not sure about older models, but the fuel line that connects to the intake manifold on my subie has a quick-disconnect that requires a special tool to remove, you can remove the fuel line in other locations, but its nearly always a pain in the ass to get it back on and will risk damaging a hose. this is only really needed if you think you'll ever remove the intake manifold or plan to pull the engine at any point.

Other than that...

Breaker bars are great, especially for head bolts, brakes, and oil drain plugs

Feeler Gauges for checking tolerances

If you jack up the car, throw some jack stands under there for redundancy so if your jack slips, you aren't killed (this happens, alot.)

a compressor, impact wrench, blowgun, air ratchet, and some impact sockets can be infinitely useful, but know when to use them and when not to use them.

a good set of torque wrenches is always good, the torque specs on subarus are anywhere from 3.6ft/lbs to something like 136 ft/lbs. Amazon has some pretty good ones which cover this range... i bought this, this and this

im sure i can come up with more, if i do i'll add them as an edit. If you can give me an idea of what you plan on doing maintainance-wise, maybe we can give you an idea on what you'll need/expect

u/sloppyjalopy · 1 pointr/gundeals

Depends on the tools you have. If you have all the tools and fixtures it is a total cake walk to build an upper around a barrel. If you don't have the tools/fixtures, you will struggle.

You can get a Magpul BEV block, armorer's wrench and a torque wrench for all under $100 and are worth their weight if you get into more serious AR building.

u/moreFDplease · -2 pointsr/Cartalk

Dont buy a harbor freight torque wrench. I bet your hand is more accurate. Seriously, HF stuff is just a waste of money.

If you want to own one, spend a little bit more and have some patience. This one will do and its only $40.

If you dont want to spend $40, go to Autozone and rent one for free. You pay them the price of the wrench and then bring it back in 48 hours for a full refund. It a program they started to stop people from buying and returning tools all the time and its great. I think O'Riley has something similar too.