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Reddit mentions of The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs

Sentiment score: 31
Reddit mentions: 43

We found 43 Reddit mentions of The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs. Here are the top ones.

The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs
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Found 43 comments on The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs:

u/KestrelLowing · 45 pointsr/aww

I would start with finding some local basic obedience or puppy classes. These are a fantastic place to start for a new dog owner. PetSmart and Petco classes are ok, but honestly their trainers aren't terribly experienced and while you could get a gem, you could also get a trainer than knows nothing.

Instead, try to find a trainer that is positive reinforcement based (sometimes trainers will advertise as "positive based" or "least adversive" or many other things - basically, instead of always punishing the dog, they're rewarding the dog for doing good things which is a much better system of dog training) and take some classes from them.

From that, you can get into dog sport classes. I personally, because of my location, actually do a lot of dog training classes online. Particularly through Fenzi Dog Sports Academy. They do have some disc dog classes occasionally, but also they have agility, nosework, obedience, and many other classes as well.

But certainly start with a basic obedience class as that will be a great foundation. If you need help with figuring out if a trainer might be good, try coming over to /r/dogs and asking there.

Oh, and if you're up for it, a fantastic book that I would recommend is "The Other End of the Leash" which is great in teaching people how dogs think and learn.

u/Serial_Buttdialer · 24 pointsr/dogs

Your training methods are the kind that causes aggression like this, not removes it.

You need to stop thinking of yourself as the "alpha" today and instead recognise that resource guarding comes from a place of insecurity and fear, not "dominance" or wilfulness. You don't specify how you 'correct behaviour', but any training techniques using the outdated debunked alpha theory are likely to be highly over the top, frightening and in no way a solution to the problem.

In addition, reaching into the middle of any dog fight is a recipe for a bite. In the moment, neither dog knows that a hand reaching in isn't another immediate threat and so they will react accordingly.

Here are some books to help you with the resource guarding and understanding life from your dog's perspective, not from pseudo-science's:

u/devonclaire · 17 pointsr/Dogtraining

I highly encourage you to read The Other End of The Leash by animal behaviorist Patricia McConnell, PhD.

The book addresses this subject. The TL;DR version of her answer to your question is that while dogs form hierarchies amongst themselves, there is absolutely no evidence to suggest that dogs see humans as part of a "pack." They do not consider us a part of their social hierarchy — they only see other dogs that way.

The book really reinforced my belief in positive reinforcement training. I think you should read it.

u/librarychick77 · 11 pointsr/Dogtraining

This is not the sort of situation where getting help from the internet is likely to be useful.

You need to find a certified veterinary behaviorist and have a consultation. If your intent is to work with this dog and keep it then this is your only option.

However, there are a number of things you absolutely should not do until you can speak to such a professional:

  • Remove the shock collar. It's clearly not helping. A tool which helps is one which improves the behavior and ensures it occurs measurably less often on an ongoing basis so you can wean off of the tool eventually - this is not the case as the dog bites as soon as the collar isn't fully operational. Therefore the tool is not improving the situation but rather masking the problem. Since it's not helping (and is likely making things worse) remove the collar and use management instead.

  • Keep this dog away from children entirely. Period. I'd personally only use a solid barrier which locks with a key to prevent accidents and mistakes. Children, even very well behaved ones, aren't known for always following directions and a single mistake could lead to a very serious ending to your story. No room for error, IMO.

  • Keep this dog muzzled when it's out of the kennel. If the dog is safe around any one person then the dog should be desensitized to the muzzle. if that's not the case then desensitize while the dog is confined by a gate or in the kennel until an adult can safely muzzle the dog.

  • Keep this dog leashed unless in a very securely fenced area. If it is out of the kennel or confinement room then the muzzle needs to be on.

  • Minimize the number of people working with the dog. This reduces the triggers for the dog to bite. This is not a dog to introduce to your friends and family, obviously. If you have guests the dog should be kenneled in a room with a locked door, or loose in a room with a key-locked door.

  • If you intend to keep this dog and work with her then the adults in your household need to take a major crash course in dog body language and current behavioral science. Unfortunately, the tools and methods you have used up until this point have directly contributed to your situation - so if there's any hope of rehabilitating this dog you'll need to use very different methods and a vet behaviorist who is well versed in force free training and working with aggressive dogs.

  • You need to be aware that, because of the young age of the dog and the severity of the bites you're describing, there is a pretty low chance this dog will ever be safe unmuzzled around anyone outside your family. I would personally be very unlikely to suggest having this dog around children at all in the future, at the very least. If you're dedicated to rehabilitating the dog then you need to have a rock solid management plan (think crate and rotate, but with your children and any guests to your home), and be willing to basically give up vacations and this dog will not be safe to leave with anyone for at least a year in the best possible scenario - maybe not ever.

    The 'trainer' you used who just jacked up her shock collar and zapped away should have any licensing revoked and be charged with animal cruelty, IMO. They have not helped your situation one single tiny bit, and they likely cause irreversible psychological damage to your dog.

    If you do want to consider your options I'd start by reading up on current methods. Here's some recommended reading to get you started:

    Understanding Aggression by Barbara Sykes

    Scaredy Dog by Ali Brown

    On Talking Terms with Dogs : Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas

    Aggressive Behavior in Dogs: A Comprehensive Technical Manual for Professionals by James O'Heare

    Don't Shoot the Dog!: The New Art of Teaching and Training by Karen Pryor

    The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs by Patricia McConnell

    Anyone who recommends any sort of correction collar, 'being dominant' or any sort of pain or intimidation based training will not help your dog. Pain and fear is what caused the situation you're dealing with.

    We all make mistakes, but you can't fix this issue using the same tools that created it.
u/jammerzee · 10 pointsr/dogs

To be honest, if she has started killing your chickens you are unlikely to be able to train her out of it. Your options are probably to either keep her separated from the chickens (assuming she doesn't become obsessed by watching them) or rehome her, as others have suggested.

There are a set of behaviours involved in the hunting instincts of dogs:

orient > eye > stalk > chase > grab-bite > kill-bite > dissect

SOME dogs have been carefully bred to keep only certain components of the chain of behaviour. E.g. border collies will orient > eye > stalk > and to some extent chase.

Your dog obviously has an instinct that includes chase > grab-bite > kill-bite > dissect, and was not introduced to chickens early enough to overcome this instinct. This is very deep seated in the dog and it would be very unfair to try to train it out of her (and pretty miserable for you).

If you want a flock guardian, you have again get a dog with exactly the right parentage and habituate the dog at under 8 weeks to the specific species (chickens) it will guard.

http://www.canismajor.com/dog/instinct.html

>I guess my question is when can she really fully learn things?

Dogs learn from birth what is 'normal' and safe vs unsafe. The sights, sounds, people, other animals, environments it encounters in its early weeks are essential to its understanding of the world. But it depends what you mean by 'things'. Some things must be learned very early or it's super hard to learn them (much like it's WAY easier for humans to learn a language while they're a baby, when it happens instinctively - learning languages after that age involves huge mental effort. ) Things which involve more complex behaviours, impulse control, or a certain amount of experience confidence (e.g. long sit and stay, or a formal heeling routine) require a fully developed brain (adulthood, 2-3yrs) a good experience of how to learn, and time to build up the foundation skills.

>I know that stock dogs and duck dogs both go to school no younger than 6mos, but service dogs are started basically from birth.

Just like babies, dogs learn many things which become a core part of their personality and outlook long before they go to preschool. You can train basic behaviours and even more complicated things like a retrieve at the age of 8-10 weeks.

There are great tips here on how to train dogs:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/index

Gently showing them the behaviour you want, making it super easy at first and gradually making it more challenging - and rewarding with food and play (not just praise) is essential.

To learn more about how dogs think and learn, this is an excellent read.
The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs by Patricia B. McConnell
http://www.amazon.com/The-Other-End-Leash-Around/dp/034544678X/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EB90Z6TWT7WO&coliid=I3328FEAF7EDB9

u/caffeinatedlackey · 8 pointsr/Dogtraining

Dominance/alpha/pack leader training has been thoroughly debunked. Anyone claiming that you need to dominate your dog (including that scam artist Cesar Millan) is practicing outdated and potentially harmful methods. You can read this article for more information on that.

I would recommend reading books by Sophia Yin and Patricia McConnell. They are force-free and reputable dog trainers.

u/DreamingOfFlying · 8 pointsr/Dogtraining

Without seeing her, it's hard to say if it's just nipping due to wanting to play, or actual aggression. If it's actual aggression--this is extremely concerning. It's far from normal for a 4 month puppy to be biting due to aggression and it would be best for you to get professional help ASAP. It's the type of thing that needs to get nipped in the bud now. A puppy this young showing aggression usually means the puppy is going to grow up with extreme aggression issues, and no one wants a dog that is going to attack people or other dogs.

If it's nipping due to play, you just need better management and you need to find a trainer that can show you what to do. Dogs will learn what they are allowed to do. If you let her jump on you, she will learn to jump on you. If you let her chew on the furniture, she will learn to chew on the furniture. You have to stop her before she even starts. Usually that means crate training, never leaving her unsupervised, or using tethers and baby gates to keep her confined.

Do not use the kennel as a punishment for bad behavior--it's not meant to be a place for time out. That's why shes running from it. Feed her her meals and throw cookies in it instead to get her to go in.

Have you taken her to any training classes? What breed is she? She sounds like she could be bored too. Dogs will also start biting and becoming destructive if they are bored.

go to /r/puppy101

You want the first book here AND at least one of the ones below it.

Find a professional trainer.

read these books

https://www.amazon.com/Other-End-Leash-What-Around/dp/034544678X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493118755&sr=8-1&keywords=the+other+end+of+the+leash

https://www.amazon.com/Puppy-Primer-Patricia-B-McConnell/dp/1891767135/ref=pd_sim_14_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1891767135&pd_rd_r=7N0P07Z9RS4ZMC1V66HN&pd_rd_w=xNvL7&pd_rd_wg=SBke8&psc=1&refRID=7N0P07Z9RS4ZMC1V66HN

https://www.amazon.com/How-Behave-Your-Dog-Behaves/dp/0793806445/ref=pd_sim_14_17?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0793806445&pd_rd_r=3KP15JN1XZES6G1V3P2X&pd_rd_w=Q4t6t&pd_rd_wg=l6l7o&psc=1&refRID=3KP15JN1XZES6G1V3P2X

https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Days-Start-Right/dp/0964151871/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1493118982&sr=1-1&keywords=perfect+puppy

u/je_taime · 7 pointsr/dogs

One that should be on your reading list if you haven't read it already: Patricia McConnell's The Other End of the Leash.

I think Decoding Your Dog may be pretty useful, too.

u/Devlik · 7 pointsr/dogs
  • Culture Clash
  • The Other End of the leash
  • Execl-Erated Learning
  • Don't Shoot the Dog
  • The Thinking Dog: Crossover clicker training

    All of the above in that order. The first two are on dogs in general and how to work with them with out being a dick. The other three are serious books on dog training theory. The last one especially is amazing and well worth a read once you get the other concepts down.

    One other book I would highly recommend to read

  • Be the pack leader

    The reason I recommend it once you get in to dog training you are going to her a lot pro and against Caesar Milan. And it is far better to be informed so you can speak competently about it. Honestly I don't think he is the great satan he is made out to be. People need to exercise their dogs more and take an active role in training them. More people need to preach this message. Its mostly the flooding and dominance theory that I personally to find to be bunk.

    Read it and read it after you have read the above books so you can be prepared to talk with those that have him as their one and only dog training resource. Don't be a douche with them and put up your nose and shout them down but help try to steer them to other resources instead.

    So now you have read books and watched DVDs what now?

    Practice! How do you practice? Damn good question. If you have your own dog start there and then find yourself a local rescue or shelter in need and in most metro areas there are.

    Volunteer to work with shelter dogs this has many advantages.

  • There is no shortage of dogs that need help
  • You will be working with dogs at their worst and most stressed
  • You will get a lot of experience with several kinds of dogs (small, big, hyper, calm, kennel stressed, flat out crazy, shy, confident)
  • These dogs need the most help and you will be quietly literally for some of them saving their lives by making them more adoptable and staving off kennel stress

    NOTE: My own personal bias. Clicker training is godlike. I am getting faster and better results than I ever did with yank and crank or even with lure and reward! I also do all my dog work pro bono with local shelters and rescues.

    Example: Teaching a dog to walk at heel in under 45 minutes, with it being solid after only 4 training sessions, completely off lead by 6. Even with my best lure and reward this took months.

    TLDR: Read up, get some skills, practice on crazy dogs in shelters, come back to us and ask again after you get a few thousand hours under your belt.
u/roosterbush · 6 pointsr/Documentaries

Commenting to save but also to drop Dr. Patricia McConnell's name and recommend her books. They're 100% the best books I've ever read about communicating with and understanding dogs.

u/ofimmsl · 6 pointsr/Dogtraining

I really think you should read this book https://www.amazon.com/Other-End-Leash-What-Around/dp/034544678X

I'm recommending it because you have a border collie and not just any old dog breed.

it isn't boring, it isn't a step by step training guide, it is an easy read like reading a long magazine article. it will teach you how to communicate on a deep and real level with your new dog. you are going to need to know this stuff because your smart dog is going to spend the next 15 years trying to understand what you are saying so that she can do it. she is going to be watching everything you do and trying to interpret it.

this is a breed that is going to be so hungry to understand you and the only thing that will upset her is if you dont make an effort to communicate with her outside of doing typical dog commands(sit, no, stay). she isn't going to be fighting against you. she wants to be your partner.


used copy is $2 including shipping on amazon. I'll show you how to get a free copy if you dont want to buy it.

u/BonchiFox · 5 pointsr/Hounds

I recommend Don't Shoot the Dog! by Karen Pryor--Karen Pryor is click-training advocate who specialized in behavioral psychology and marine mammal biology ( also has a website, hosts clicker-expos around the states, and dog trainer academy.)


The second book I recommend is The Other End of the Leash: Why We do What we Do Around Dogs by Patricia B. McConnell. Patricia McConnel is a University professor of Zooology, trained ethologist, and CAAB ( Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist)

These two wonderful ladies are extremely insightful and break down different types of training. :) Good luck!

u/octaffle · 5 pointsr/dogs

Welcome to the fold, mate. You're right. Dogs evolved with us over thousands of years to take direction and integrate into the lives of us, their human caretakers. The idea that dogs are constantly vying for dominance over us is pervasive, harmful, and just incorrect. I'm not sure of how you've trained her for eight years, but for most people, dominance theory/training is physically punishing the dog (sometimes harshly) for doing something wrong without ever telling the dog how to do things right. Every thing the dog does to act out is somehow a struggle towards the top position in the pack and the owner puts the dog back in its place at the bottom.

Imagine if that's how you were treated at work, if every time you did something wrong, the boss interpreted your behavior as threatening his position and you receieved punishment without explanation why or a demonstration on how to do it right. Praise for doing something correctly would come rarely, if ever. It's depressing. You fall in line and do your job, but are fearful and confused because of the management style. That's what dominance theory/training tends to promote.

Does it work to get obedient dogs? Yes. Is it easy to do? Yes. The cost? The relationship between the trainer and the dog.

The Other End of the Leash and Don't Shoot the Dog are both very good books for someone in your position. You can begin rewarding your dog for behavior you like. You can stop physically punishing her when something goes wrong; a simple and firm "No" or "HEY" is enough of a punishment for many dogs. They want to please (mostly).

It's not important to be the alpha over your dog. You should never demand submission. The respect your dog from you should never come from fear. It is important to be your dog's leader: someone she can trust when she's unsure or scared, someone she respects not because she's afraid, someone who guides her and shows her what to do, and someone who keeps her safe. Demand obedience when it's necessary, not submission, and do so with gentle but firm methods. Begin treating your dog like partner instead of a minion or soldier and you'll begin to see some huge changes in your dog and in your relationship.

u/pjdwyer30 · 5 pointsr/dogs

Loved this book. Dr. McConnell had 2 or 3 border collies at the time of that book and has had them her whole adult life. she uses them on her sheep farm as herding dogs. She is also an animal/dog behaviorist.

Stanley Coren has some good ones too like this on on How Dogs Think, this one on How to Speak Dog, and this one on The Intelligence of Dogs.

u/BiggityGnar33 · 4 pointsr/Dogtraining

I would like to recommend a couple of books.
The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell. She has a PhD in behaviorism and has worked with a lot of aggressive dogs but she only uses positive reinforcement. Her book talks a lot about the difference between primates and canids (aka dogs) and how those differences create misunderstandings.

Bones Would Rain from the Sky by Suzanne Clothier. Suzanne has tons of experience with all kinds of animals. Her book focuses a lot on what it means to have a trusting, healthy relationship with dogs and I guarantee it will change the way you see your dog.

I also have a reactive border collie. You are on the right track with the hamburger treats while walking, but you need to not get your dog over threshold to the point where she can't focus on you or the treats any more. And more exercise is never a bad thing for a border collie, mental and physical.

Good luck!

u/carry_on_phenomenon · 4 pointsr/dogs

Whew, ok, lots to unpack here.

First question: does your dad know you're about to give him a GSD puppy? You're signing him up for a pretty big 2 year commitment here (and that's just the puppy phase), so please make sure he's 100% on board with the idea of raising a landshark demon spawn before bringing it home.

Secondly, breed standard puts an adult GSD somewhere in the neighborhood of 24" tall and 60-80lb. This can vary widlly based on sex, line, and breeding quality. My poorly-bred GSD male is 29" tall and a scrawny 85lb. I've also seen some pretty petite females come through my rescue.
On the subject of lines, do you know what kind of GSD you're getting? There are various working and show lines, and the personality and structure of your GSD can come out all over the map. If you don't know the answer from talking to your breeder, run away, because you're not getting a well-bred dog. Poorly-bred GSDs are health and temperament nightmares.

Thirdly, the breed standard calls for a confident but aloof personality, but again, temperaments may vary depending on lines and breeding quality. GSDs need to be socialized thoroughly but carefully to lock in that confident-but-also-aloof sweet spot. Flooding your puppy with tons of new people and places will create a fearful adult, but so will keeping your dog locked up. I have seen lots of success using a puppy-led gentle exposure technique. Take your dog to lots of places, but don't make the novelty into a big deal. Don't force your puppy to interact with every person and dog you see, and call it a day if your puppy seems overwhelmed or scared. A puppy builds confidence by exploring on its own, you're just there to moderate the experience and make sure it's a positive one. I can't recommend a group obedience class enough for young GSDs...learning to focus in a controlled environment around other dogs is a valuable asset for future life skills. Consider finding a local trainer that does group positive reinforcement based training, or at least very positive-leaning balanced training. Avoid anyone who mentioned "alpha" or "pack leader" because that school of thought is outdated and disproven (but is holding on forever in GSD breed circles for some reason). Also avoid anyone who wants to put a prong or choke collar on your dog without evaluating their behavior first.

Honestly, if I were you I'd stop and do a little more research before bringing home a GSD. They're a little more of a "lifestyle breed" than your average family pet, and will find and exploit any weakness in your dog-owning abilities. Read some books (recommendations here: 1 2 3 4), talk to your dad, take a good look at your breeder, maybe find a local trainer with a good positive puppy class, and try again with a little more information under your belt.

u/littlealbatross · 3 pointsr/Pets

Agreed with you about Milan. I was fond of Patrica McConnell (author of the similarly-titled The Other End of the Leash ). She is an animal behaviorist with something like 2 decades of experience, and I found her books easy to read and quite useful with my fearful dog.

u/CountingSatellites · 3 pointsr/reactivedogs

Tricky situation- dealing with a dog fearful of people when you aren’t currently able to use treats. Have you tried really high value soft foods like small pieces of boils shredded chicken or tiny pieces of cut up hot dog? If you can find something that he likes, you may want to try having people just ignore him for the most part while tossing treats in his direction while he’s mostly calm. Toss them a little behind him so he doesn’t have to approach. The idea is to get him to associate people with good things.

Also, try to be very mindful of your body language around him, and direct others to do the same. No staring or direct eye contact that signals a threat or aggression. Approach from the side, not straight on, use look-aways, slow blinks, etc to communicate a relaxed friendly attitude. There are some great resources on the web and YouTube about dog communication.

Also, you may find the book The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell to be an insightful read.

u/jwallwalrus26 · 3 pointsr/shiba

Here are my favorite positive training book

The Other end of the Leash: this one is a really fantastic book on understanding dogs, dog behavior, interacting with them, building a relationship with respect versus dominance. Anything by Patricia B. McConnell is going to be solid advice and techniques.

101 Dog Tricks - just gives a really good guidelines on luring your dog into tricks versus forcing them, plus a lot of good tricks that help with mental stimulation.

Play with Your Dog: Just another really good book on good training, playing, and positive relationship building.

Ahimsa Training manual: This is the training manual from one of the best training facilities in Seattle. There are really good positive trainers.

BAT Book: Behavior Adjustment Training by Grisha Stewart: This book was a life saver for me. Shibas are prone to being really reactive and sometimes have issues with aggression and predatory drift issues, and this book really digs deep into understanding your dog and helping them make the right choices and building them up for success. I personally don't think you need to have an aggressive/reactive dog to get a lot of good info from this book.

Anything by Cesar Milan will NOT be positive training methods. He very much does not follow that philosophy. Positive training techniques do not use force, aversion, do not believe in alpha dominance theory, no physical punishment. It is a give and take type of relationship. Cesar Milan style tends to not do well with primitive breeds especially the Japanese dog breeds.

u/Jourdin · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

He's not stubborn, he just doesn't know his name well enough to respond to it in an environment that is absolutely rife with distractions. Think of it like a video game. (I don't know you so I don't know if you play video games but it seems like a safe enough analogy, hope it helps.) He's gotten past the tutorial and maybe levels 1-5 by responding to you saying his name in the first two scenarios you mentioned. But when you bring him to the park, even on a long leash, with all of that freedom and those smells and those little animals to chase, it's like bumping it up from level 5 to level 20. You can't just jump levels if you've never played the game before, you have to work up to it so you get better with practice and experience.

Same with dog training. You always want to set a dog up for success by taking baby steps. Now that he comes when called in the house, take it to a familiar outdoor place like your yard. Once he's gotten that down, try somewhere new indoors, e.g. take him to Petco or somewhere and work on him looking at you when you say his name (obviously you may not be able to let him off leash to come all the way to you in most stores). Then add in more distractions slowly and one at a time. Eventually you will build up to him knowing to respond to his name even if he's absolutely surrounded by squirrels and dogs and stinky things to smell.

Keep in mind this dog has only been with you for five months. He is probably still getting to know you and has just finally adjusted to your lifestyle and schedule. Anecdotally, I have heard that some rescue dogs end up always having problems with recall, and some even chronically run away because they can't seem to adjust to a stable lifestyle. This hopefully won't be the case for you if you keep working with him but as you do work with him just acknowledge that his life before being with you may have been tumultuous, and he has probably had little to no training. You are learning together.

Do him a favor and throw the idea of him being "not in the mood" to listen out the window. Likely he is just distracted or does not know what you're asking because you have challenged him too much too fast.

It sounds like you are doing the right things. Just keep working with him daily like you say you are (and for that, good job) and be patient. For an adopted dog, 5 months is really not a very long time to wait before jumping to a shock collar. Also, your boy is a pit, which means he is a terrier in a fucking mid-weight wrestler's body. He's got the drive and energy of a dog that was bred to hunt rats in a body that can do ten times as much damage. He is going to be easily distracted and highly energetic. This does not mean he is being headstrong and disobedient. Dogs are not willful and do not have morals. He just needs your guidance and continued training, so keep it up.

Recommended reads: The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson and The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell. Also, anything by the late Dr. Sophia Yin, who recently passed but in her lifetime made incredible contributions in the field of veterinary behavior, most of which are easily accessible to average pet owners like us.

u/hpekarov · 3 pointsr/dogs
  1. I would baby gate him in a dog/baby proof room. No carpet just in case he has an accident. No pillows or blankets in case he decides those look fun to destroy. Ask the foster family what their normal routine is for leaving him alone in the house.

  2. Will depend on the dog. Mine was minimal because my dog had not interest in chewing things or getting himself in trouble. Some good things to do would be to ensure no access to garbage and recycling. If you have plants make sure he can't knock them over or eat them. You have children so just think about what you did when you baby proofed the home.

  3. Fromm would be a good upgrade from Blue Buffalo. Fromm Gold specifically

  4. I like Lupine Pet Products. I also really like rope style leashes and biothane. Biothane is water proof. I but a lot leashes and collars on Etsy.

  5. I just lock my dog in there over night. However, he sleeps in his crate all day on his own. It is his safe spot. I would never ever stick my arm or hand in there to try and grab him. That is his personal space and I do not violate it. Make sure you teach your kids to always leave your dog alone when he is in his crate. If your dog has a good relationship with his crate he will retreat there to rest and relax on his own. It should always be available to him.

  6. This book and a clicker. Super straight forward and fun. Don't buy too many toys to start. Buy a few different ones and see what your dog likes and that are safe to give him. I would also pick up some bully sticks

  7. Don't overwhelm him with new experiences to start. Don't have visitors over for a couple weeks. Limit his exposure to new things. Take him out for walks but don't bring him to the pet store until you guys can build a relationship together.

  8. I would be careful with hugging, grabbing collar, kissing the dog's head and just being too affection. Humans are primates and dogs are canines and each species has different ways of communicating. Hugging and face-to- face contact is the way to communicate if you are a primate but not if you are canine. It is scary and can be threatening to a dog. Patricia McConnell has a great book on this subject.

  9. Look into the two week shutdown. Do not feel the need to rush him to the dog park or your kids soccer games in an effort to socialize him. He has probably had a lot of changes in his short life so just take it slow. Once he is settled in a month or two look into doing a pet obedience class at a training club. It is a great way to learn more about dogs, get your kids involved in dog training and get your dog out the house for some fun. You will also learn the basics for having a well behaved dog.

  10. I'd take him in a month or two unless the adoption contract requires to take him in sooner.
u/insomniactive · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

Meanwhile, I recommend starting w/ the WIKI pages links in the sidebar. Kikopup is great; her training videos are well-explained and to the point. I'm not as familiar w/ the list of training books, but Patricia McConnell's The Other End of the Leash was helpful in explaining behaviors.

Here are some additional training links that might help locate a trainer closer to you: CCPDT, APDT, KPA-CTP.
I'd also check through my vet, dog parks, daycares, for possible training clubs, group classes, or other recommendations.

u/magnoliafly · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining
  • BEFORE You Get Your Puppy (free PDF)

  • AFTER You Get Your Puppy (free PDF)

  • The Other End of the Leash - great book on understanding dog/human relationships and how we differ in communication styles.

    And just to add - different breeds don't really necessitate different training styles. Animals learn the same way, through positive and negative reinforcement and punishment. One breed may learn faster than another and you will have to augment the way you train to prevent them from "training you" per se, but all animals learn the same way scientifically.

    Learning Theory: Positive Reinforcement and Negative Punishment

    The only thing that differs is what the animal considers to be positive reinforcement and negative punishment. A dolphin has a completely different idea of what a reward is from a dog so of course you'll use two different types of reinforcement based on the animal you are training. Every dog has a hierarchical structure for what they find most reinforcing.
u/MongoAbides · 2 pointsr/aww

Lots of exercise. Whether it's ball chasing or running alongside you while you run/bicycle/skateboard whatever. Exercise isn't the same as playing or just going for a walk.

I could also thoroughly recommend the book The Other End of the Leash. It's a fantastic resource.

u/reekoman · 2 pointsr/funny

I haven't read that one myself, but I have it in my wishlist. I highly recommend The Other End of the Leash by the same author, though. :)

u/KillerDog · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

>the nicest person I've been in touch with

Thanks :) You've been pretty reasonable and interesting to talk to also (sometimes thats really hard when you're passionate about something).

So, if anything I've said so far seemed to make sense to you, I'd recommend you get and read a few books that talk about how dogs (and animals in general) "work". They're all fairly cheap, interesting / easy to read, and are written by really qualified animal behaviorists / trainers:

u/sweetcarolina110 · 2 pointsr/childfree

Since this is your first dog I have some recommended reading for you:

The Other End of the Leash and For the Love of a Dog

u/batmanismyconstant · 2 pointsr/dogs

After years and years of wanting a dog, I adopted a dog... who promptly turned around and greatly preferred my boyfriend, who is a cat person and generally is ambivalent about dogs. It sucked. After owning him for ~11 months, my dog prefers me now but it was an uphill battle.

Some tips:

  • If feeling loved is important to you, get a friendly, outgoing dog who loves everyone like a lab or a golden. My dog is generally aloof. I know he likes me because when given a choice, he'll follow me around rather than my boyfriend. But he still follows me into a room and lies down in a corner, rather than wanting to be super close to me. He doesn't love being petted, but tolerates it. He will leave after 30 seconds to a minute of petting. It's not because he dislikes me but he doesn't like petting. A typical lab, on the other hand, will lean against you and accept petting forever.
  • Don't get a velcro dog who prefers one person but is aloof to strangers... something like a German Shepherd would fit this. Could the dog pick you as his person? Sure. But he also could pick your SO, which would be a bummer.
  • Read more about dogs. Here's a list of books. The Other End of the Leash would be a good place to start. I thought I knew a TON about dogs before getting one but was definitely wrong. Especially some of your terminology in those post - it doesn't seem to line up with current research and thinking about dogs. Do you know about canine body language like calming signals? Learning more about that will help you bond better with your next dog. Some dogs put up with corrections just fine but you need to learn how to read your dog before you make that decision. My dog, for example, when I said "no" after he walked around the hoop instead of jumping through it, just refused to try again for a while. He's a very sensitive dog and needs a light touch. He's not a very expressive dog, either, but with the help of a more experienced trainer, I learned how to read his subtle signals and stop pushing him too far when he's stressed.
  • Training classes and daily training helped me bond with my dog a LOT. It's the interaction he looks forward to every day and what helped tipped the scale in favor of me over my boyfriend. It works their brain, which keeps them happy, and having a well trained dog will make you happy.

    Even after all of that... your dog might take a long time to come around, and might never be the ideal loyal companion. Mine certainly isn't, but I've found ways to appreciate his personality. It has helped me bond with him a lot more. For months I was comparing him to my ideal dog and it really hurt both of us. I'd say ask a LOT of questions of the foster, vet the rescue organization well, and see if you can have a trial period with the dog. My foster was inexperienced with dogs and read Finn's personality all wrong.
u/Sewwattsnew · 1 pointr/dogs

Have you tried The Other End of the Leash? I'm about halfway through it and it's definitely given me a new perspective on how my dog perceives things.

u/dogboat · 1 pointr/TwoXChromosomes

Get him good dog food! here is a list of dog food I stole from /r/pets, try to get 5 or 6 star dog food to cut back on potential allergies and so she can be a healthy dog. (We use Wellness brand, and my dog loves it.)

Since its a puppy I'm going to give you a warning: it's going to act like a giant jerk-ass sometimes. Things will be destroyed, chewed up, and drooly so try to keep everything out of reach of the puppy, it really doesn't know any better. Get her lots of chew toys to play with while you're gone so she doesn't get bored. Bored dogs are destructive dogs.

I suggest reading The Other End of the Leash, it gives really good insight to how dogs think and why they react to things the way they do.

As for names...uh, I'm bad at names. It took me almost a week before I named my dog. We settled on Pixel, because he's tiny :3 This probably won't work for you, except ironically. I was also tossing around Qwerty (sounds like cutie! sorta.) or Vector. If you like videogames you could always name her Zelda, or if you're a Firefly fan there's always River (or Zoe, or Kaylee, etc.)

u/redchai · 1 pointr/puppy101

I think one of the most important things for someone who has never had a dog before is to learn about how dogs communicate. Body language, canine cognition...these sorts of things give you a really good foundation for working with your dog, and they help you avoid some beginner mistakes.

I highly recommend reading:

u/Snooso · 1 pointr/dogs

Does he realize he makes you incredibly anxious? Maybe its something you should just come out and say to him. :)

Some Books:

u/stread · 1 pointr/dogs

Surprisingly it's got a pretty big list of different things that it can cause:

http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/hypothyroidism-in-dogs

The first thing we noticed was aggression when he got kicked out of day care and the first time we heard about checking on his thyroid which I'd never heard of before in dogs. After reading up a bit while waiting on results(took a day or 2 each time) there was a lot of signs but I can't say it was anything more than confirmation bias until we got the confirmed result.

For him though, the signs that we noticed were along the lines of a tendency of baldness from neck to chest, slow hair growth, lethargy, aggression, and so on.

Even if he has a thyroid issue, this is potentially only part of the problem, training will have to be addressed immediately and never really ends, though it gets easier.

As soon as we got the blood test started I began reading a book that came highly recommended from the vet and friends The other end of the leash and it's taught me a lot about the things we show them we don't realize that leads to bad behavior and how to pay attention to your dogs behavior and mannerisms for warnings, etc.

Those combined, and pending getting his levels right, have led to huge strides in his confidence, aggression, and behavior. Eventually the day care place said they would re-evaluate him but we're holding off until the medical issue is addressed.

u/Librarycat77 · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Well I'm glad to hear it, and even more glad you weren't offended!

I'd go with these as good places to start:

Zak George

Puppy Primer

Don't Shoot the Dog

Other End of the Leash

Kikopup on youtube has a TON of amazing videos on puppy raising too. Well worth checking out. :)

u/ala1985 · 1 pointr/BDSMcommunity

> I know that a big part of training dogs is making sure that they understand where they fall in the hierarchy of the household.

This has been debunked. Dogs have a pack hierarchy between other dogs. Dogs know humans are not dogs and therefore there is no struggle for dominance.

> Untrained dogs will often come to see themselves as "outranking" some members of the family, especially children.

Dogs that show "dominant" behavior to humans are simply insecure dogs who have not been shown that these largely fear based behaviors are unnecessary and unacceptable. It has nothing to do with rank. Like I said before, these dogs are often high strung and fearful so the erratic, noisy, and clumsy nature of children is often terrifying to them, thus why they act out.

> Has anyone ever intentionally given a dog preferential treatment over a sub to encourage this dynamic?

This actually probably wouldn't encourage the dynamic you're looking for unless you forced the sub to treat the dog poorly or have an improperly socialized dog. An intentionally poorly socialized dog is a liability and IMO cruel. Even police departments are changing their training methods to encourage properly socialized dogs being trained to bite on cue rather than dogs socialized to be suspicious and bite out of a protection drive. Too many bites to innocent people were happening. Dogs are opportunists and when properly socialized see all humans as living breathing opportunities to be fed, given affection, and played with, even if they get the majority of those needs filled by one person. There are some breeds that are more inclined to bond much closer to one person (German Shepherds, Akitas, Chows, Dalmatians for example) but when properly socialized they still are affectionate to other people, especially those in the household.

In short, this is a bad and actually highly unrealistic idea. Also, may be worthwhile to read up on modern dog behavior and training for the sake of your dog.

From the American Veterinary Society of Dog Behavior
http://avsabonline.org/uploads/position_statements/dominance_statement.pdf

An excellent book that explains many aspects of how dogs and even most other animals learn and think
http://www.amazon.com/The-Other-End-Leash-Around/dp/034544678X

One more for good measure
https://www.alldogsgym.com/dominance-a-dog-pack-behavior/basics/general/social-hierarchy-a-pack-behavior

u/mysled · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell

http://www.amazon.com/The-Other-End-Leash-Around/dp/034544678X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404943654&sr=8-1&keywords=patricia+mcconnell

The article states not to free feed if your dog resource guards. If you don't have problems with guarding and your dog doesn't overeat, free feeding is fine (and for reference my vet told me the same thing). If she starts to get overweight, switch her to a schedule.

One thing from personal experience: I was in the same situation with my dog, and I free fed her for a while, but she started skipping meals and throwing up bile, and then having inconsistent BMs. She also kept getting intestinal parasites. I'm 90% sure it's because I was feeding her too much and the food was too rich, it was upsetting her GI tract, and she would binge eat when she felt fine, then feel worse, then starve herself.

Long story short I only feed her 1/3-1/2 what the bag recommends now, and then feed her extra if she is still hungry at dinner. She also gets treats and scraps, so she ultimately gets plenty to eat. She's doing great!

u/ceeeKay · 1 pointr/todayilearned

Somewhat related, fantastic book about communication between humans and dogs. http://www.amazon.com/The-Other-End-Leash-Around/dp/034544678X

u/kikimonster · 1 pointr/dogs

https://www.amazon.com/Other-End-Leash-What-Around/dp/034544678X?ie=UTF8&ref_=asap_bc

Read this book. It'll give you so much insight into what your dog and other dogs are thinking.

u/JaderBug12 · 0 pointsr/BorderCollie

Congrats on your new pup-to-be! And thank you for doing so much research, there aren't nearly enough people who do their homework first :-)

My favorite potty training resource:

Why Crate Train

ABCs of Crate Training

Dos and Don'ts of Crate Training


I, too, highly recommend The Other End of the Leash

Books I also really like:

Training Your Superpuppy - it's pretty basic but it covers a little bit of a lot of topics

My Smart Puppy I really like this for a puppy training book- it comes with a DVD as well which I found very helpful

101 Dog Tricks - For some fun training and bonding exercises. There is a puppy version, but I found that my Border Collies have been able to keep up with the 'adult' book just fine. I also really like Kyra's Do More With Your Dog, just a fun book if you're looking for more activities with your dog or just to learn about other canine activities.

The Dog Wars - It's not a training book but more of a dog politics book, but it should be required reading for any Border Collie enthusiast IMO

If you have any interest in working livestock...

A Way of Life

Top Trainers Talk About Starting A Sheepdog

Herding Dogs

Talking Sheepdogs: Training Your Working Border Collie

Stockdog Savvy

Also-

Collie Psychology - I just found this book online while looking for links for the others. I know nothing about it, but reading the description looks like it could be interesting (anyone know anything about it?)

Edit: Really... once again, I'm the only comment here with a downvote?! If you've got a problem with the things I post, say it to me. Raise an issue, start a discussion. Christ.

u/xxtoejamfootballxx · -2 pointsr/aww

> I respectfully disagree that hugging equates to slapping.

I never said that. This was just an example to show that you don't need a peer reviewed study for something to be understood. It could have been anything.

>They all reference a Dr. Stanley Coren, as does the article that you just posted, who is the author of the op-ed I was referencing.

Yes and the article I posted is written by an animal behaviorist who offers their own perspective. It isn't simply an article about the OpEd.

You are literally trying to discredit multiple experts on the matter with your personal experience with your dog. Dogs seeing hugs as a sign of dominance has been well established for decades. I learned about it in my college psych classes long before that article was published in 2016. Here's a 2002 book that references it.